heres a quick guide on how to replace the key barrel and electrical switch in 68 on bugs/ghias/type3s and truth be known baywindows are probably similiar to.

i've noticed owning a few bugs over the years and working at the garage a while back that its common with VWs to turn to the key to start and have enough time for a smoke before they start cranking over.
so i've had to go through this exercise a few times now to various bugs over the years as its a regular occurance for both the barrel and the switch to wear out and start causing all sorts of fun and games.

the 68 onwards ignition switch and barrel layout are all fairly similar,
the only real differences aside from steering locks which started in 72 (in Australia anyway) are more cosmetic than anything else.

im changing the lock barrel and ignition switch in my 74 but i have a few earlier model columns on hand so ill point out the other differences as i go.

i broke my indicator switch a few months ago and my accessories position was playing up causing my headunit to stay in standby and flatten the battery
so it just was easier to swap the whole switch housing from my 73 convertible till i got some new parts which is why it doesnt look right for a 74
b4 people start thinking WTF, vws dont normally have accesories position,your right they dont, i just did a little black magic trick so mine now does.

anyway, obviously first step is rip off the steering wheel, its a 24mm nut on taper spline cars (mid74 on) and 27mm on big spline cars (pre mid74).
if you have one of the 4 spoke steering wheels the horn pad is removed by grabbing the top and pulling towards you
then same thing at the base of the bottom 2 spokes

big spline cars also usually have a circlip on the shaft under the steering wheel that will have to come off if its still there.

on 71 and earlier you will have to trace the wires for the indicator and ignition switch and unplug them inside the hood as they are hardwired but 72 on cars just have 3 plugs on the steering column for the wiper/indicators/ignition like mine which can be unplugged
also 72on cars will have 2 rubber hoses going to the washer switch which will need disconnecting if they still exist
i removed all that on mine and fitted an electric pump and micro switch which is the green/purple wires

with the 4 screws removed the indicator switch and a wiper switch if there is one can be removed

on the underside of the housing is a hole with a 6mm allen key bolt in it
this clamps the housing to the column
once its out the whole housing can be slid off column
but if the cars equiped with a steering lock you will need to turn the key to on to disengage the tounge first before it will slide off

and heres where the differences in models start to show
the 74 on cars have a plastic casing shell and an alloy internal housing which contains the shaft bearing and barrel and switch

the electrical switch in this style are held in by a single phillips head screw
once this is removed the switch can just be pulled out

back at the other end theres a metal wedge which is removed and that exposes a small hole in the alloy
through this hole is a leaf spring which holds in the barrel

it takes a tiny screwdriver or nail, rivet stem etc to push in this hole which releases the leaf spring and the barrel can pulled out
it comes out alot easier if the key is in and turned a bit




my shitty camera doesnt pick it up well but with the original german barrels the key code is stamped onto them like shown in the pic
a good lock smith can make a new key from scratch with this code

ok so from there its just a matter of putting it back together with the new barrel and switch in the reverse order
put the barrel in first so if its hard to put in the final few MM you can see if the bottom slot is lined up

now with 68-73 cars the housing is metal and is one piece with the shaft bearing housing
so to remove the barrel and switch from these there are 2 screws that hold a small cover plate on

once these are out and the cover plate is off the barrel and switch come out as one
if it has a steering lock you will either need to hold the tongue in or just put the key in and turn it to the on position and slide it out
so here they are out and u can see by the arrow the small grub screw that holds the electrical switch in place
once this screw is out the switch can just be pulled out

here u can see the hole that the leaf spring is in
same deal as b4 just push on it with a small screw driver or similar and pull the barrel out
and thats it
reassemble with the new parts and your're good to go for another 35 years

I have the symtoms of lag time on starting so will need to do this shortly, good timing and thank you Joel for simplifying the process! not a mystery anymore

Very good Joel. Bays are very similar as I had to do it about 10 years ago. Cant remember all the details now very well tho. So can you pull a Bay apart photograph it all and provide instructions :-)

Nice work
When can we expect How to:- Ej22 installation?

its in the works

something i should have added is that fitting a relay (commonly known in vw world as hard start relay) is the best way to maximise the life of the new components and also makes hot starting alot better

Well documented and easy to follow.

Sorry
I forgot to say

Very Good Article Joel..


LEE

thanks joel a very helpful set pic and helpful info

Thanks for the guide.

I just read a few days ago, to take the barrel out of a 68 beetle
You need to drill a hole 1/8 of an inch in from the edge in line with the key when its turned off... ???

I still haven't tried to take mine off... so I don't know...???

Maybe it was a German made 67 beetle???

LEE

I'll have to try and find the article..

Hi Lee, semi auto beetles were fully imported so it would be german yes

there are some beetles that dont have the hole for the leaf spring release

going from memory it was 76s that dont but i have the diagrams in a manual somewhere showing where and how to drill them

I need to do this - or, put a hard start relay in- on my '74 Westy. A pictorial on hard start relay would be great.
New here and I haven't figured out how to post pics yet .

I did actually do up a diagram for anther memer somewhere
It's for a bug but if you have a basic understanding of how relays work it should be pretty easy to suss out

now I just gotta find it

Excellent article and great pictures! I appreciate all the work you went to to show us lesser knowledgable VW owners how to do it.

Sincerely, thank you!

All good


Oops, I never did attach that relay diagram


Heres the before and after lay out in a 12 volt bug, but theyre all the same principal

I don't think I quite finished it but cant remember what I was gonna add

I have removed all the bolts but cannot get the housing off because this bearing is in the way. I believe I am supposed to pull it off. Any body know how to do this without a puller? What would be the best way to put it back on - it looks kind of fragile.

Plus can this plastic cover be replaced?

That's the early 1500 bug/KG type column?

Not sure how you'll go getting a replacement outter bearing sleeve but the bearing is probably just stuck on there from 40 years worth grime and crap

Lots of WD40 and it should come apart same as this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s02nPu194KM 

They say in the vid that the bearing and sleeve are availble new, I haven't seen them on CIP though.

I have changed both my '74 Lbug and '70 1500 beetle barrel's, and didnt need to remove the top housing on either one.
Saved a bit of time and hassle.
I also changed the ignition switch on the Lbug and had to grind some plastic off the new switch to make it fit. Still going ok.