Board Logo

Sticky lifters EJ20T
GTMac - March 19th, 2009 at 11:53 AM

Ive noticed left bank lifters are a bit sticky at start up. After a good drive the noise is gone or not detectable over engine noise anyway.

May have been my stupid mistake of both slightly low oil level and overdue oil change. This has been done now.

Is there any fix for sticky lifters? I have heard they are common fault in Subys. Hoping I will get by until the engine is pulled apart for head and cam work at the end of the year.

Cheers, Andrew

Bizarre - March 19th, 2009 at 11:54 AM

drive it more :tu:

ian.mezz - March 19th, 2009 at 02:06 PM

maybe try some of that Wynns lifter free

1303Steve - March 19th, 2009 at 02:36 PM

Hi

I've never tried it, but an old mechanics trick is to drain the oil and fill the motor with Kero to give everything a good wash out, I think you can actually buy a special product to do this called engine flush.

Steve

bajachris88 - March 19th, 2009 at 03:55 PM

Go to ur local auto store, nearly every one has lifter free up oil additive in like a 400ml bottle. Nulon and what not.
Do an oil change and throw it in with it. The stuffs good.

seagull - March 19th, 2009 at 06:36 PM

You have a early RS liberty motor

The problem will come and go over time & there is nothing that can be done . You can change the heads out look for heads with the single bolt coil .

or just grab my N/A 2.5 motor and turbo that as it has late heads on it

seagull - March 19th, 2009 at 06:38 PM

PS , dont waste your $ on those heads !

GTMac - March 19th, 2009 at 09:01 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by seagull
You have a early RS liberty motor

The problem will come and go over time & there is nothing that can be done . You can change the heads out look for heads with the single bolt coil .

or just grab my N/A 2.5 motor and turbo that as it has late heads on it


Neill, I actually have the first of the WRX motors with single bolt coil. Have heard the problem is more often with the RS motor. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.................2.5 motor :lol:

Have grabbed some Nulon stuff this afternoon and yes Barry, drive it more!

1303Steve - March 19th, 2009 at 09:45 PM

Hi

I'm not sure if its relevant to WRX motors, but when I had the WBX motor I would get very noisy lifters if I ever started the motor and shut it down after only running for a short period of time.

For example, if I started the car up to move it out to wash it and then started it up to put it away, when I started it up after these 2 short starts I would get dreadful lifter noise.

I got into the habit of only starting the car if I intended to drive it, no more problems.

Steve

colonel mustard - March 19th, 2009 at 09:50 PM

With lifter free, read the bottle! You should do it before an oil change. i.e, put it in the old oil and run if for a while then change your oil. Don't put it in new oil. Lifter free is basically oil with solvent in it. Its best not to have it in there for too long. :) just something I learnt from some oldies in the game.

helbus - March 19th, 2009 at 09:56 PM

I got a bit of lifter noise in our EJ22 and with a new oil change using a semi synthetic 10-50 oil as recommended, it stopped after 100km drive and is fine now.

bajachris88 - March 19th, 2009 at 10:01 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by colonel mustard
With lifter free, read the bottle! You should do it before an oil change. i.e, put it in the old oil and run if for a while then change your oil. Don't put it in new oil. Lifter free is basically oil with solvent in it. Its best not to have it in there for too long. :) just something I learnt from some oldies in the game.


NO NO NO NO!!! don't waste it!

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Lifter-Free_and_Tune-Up 

Only if ur doing a Nulon Oil Flush! then u get rid of it with the old oil. Leave it in there till the next oil change (what ever your normal servicing inciments are, being every 6 months or 5000-10'000km's)

If you pour a good drop of oil in it too, the mid to expensive brands of oil come with detergents in them as well. Which of course, doesn't hurt! Some cars, like the later model commodores can't run without them (due to fine oil galleries and sleeves prone to the possibility of getting clogged with sludge).

Cheapest oil with detergent in it (which they don't gloat about but ask any person with half a mind at ur local auto supplier), will be the GulfWestern HI-Tech from memory. I dunno how much they have changed prices since the last few months i haven't worked at autobarn.

But have a read of this anyways, some good info about sticky lifters.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Lifter-Free_and_Tune-Up 

Depending on how much you love your car and are willing to spend on additives, Lucas oil stabiliser is awesome and helps keep the lube everywhere in your motor, including your lifters. I wouldn't go that far unless you really gave the motor a hard time, or if it was really aged. From the instant i turned the key i had a huge increase in smooth running and power delivery, OH and quieter lifters + it apparently assists in reducing the rate of oil breakdown due to hard work too.

colonel mustard - March 19th, 2009 at 10:17 PM

Also depends on how old your engine is/service history. i had a 89 laser which was treated very poorly before i got it, and i put lifter free in it.... bad idea. Sounded alot worse a few hours later. I would personally always add lifter free (like 200ml) into old oil, take it for a thrash and get it hot, and drop it whilst its hot. thats just me. :)

bajachris88 - March 19th, 2009 at 10:19 PM

in that case though you would buy nulon oil flush. Idle it for 5 to 10 mins then empty the sump. That stuffs toxic!

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Engine_Oil_Flush 

seagull - March 20th, 2009 at 12:40 AM

mmm , Ok you dont see this a lot with those heads. Try an up grade to 2.5 ltr :)

I have a 2.5 ltr long block c/w turbo pistions, single bolt heads ( fit your cams to these heads or run the cams that are fitted ) all your components from your current motor will fit directly on this set up $1500.00. A 2.5 ltr block & crank is worth $2600.00 new now days + the heads , oil pump water pump ect ect .

I am selling the above due to I have up graded to a custom built 2.5 ltr AKA ( STI 257 ) runing Jun / cosworth 264 inlet & outlet cams forged pistions Eagle rods

I will also have a VF22 STI turbo ( rear housing has just been coated ) for sale as I need a larger turbo for my new motor.

give me a buzz any time after 5pm perth time if you like , seagull

GTMac - March 22nd, 2009 at 12:17 AM

Seagull, the 2.5 does sound nice at $1500 but then I also have to change my computer and get a full tune again $$$$$$$$ :(

seagull - March 22nd, 2009 at 01:28 AM

So use the heads off it ( I have not re fitted them ) & fit your cams , the VF22 and all you require is a part tune , not a full tune

Then again you be around 280hp and may require new under wear !