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posted on February 7th, 2014 at 08:26 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
I have put the k&N pod filter just straight on the end of the throttle body. Do I need to try to get it to suck fresh cooler air? Does it make a
difference?
Hey SunnyJim-
I've been lurking on your thread for quite some time. This build and some of the contributions of other posters on this forum like karmann141 helped
inspire me to pursue an EJ22 swap in my '71 bus with engine bay mounted radiators. I had a friend with a shop do the install with aftermarket
MicroSquirt engine management and my bus has been back on the road since late summer. I have put 1500 miles or so on the setup with no overheating
issues, but the true test will be driving to VW shows next summer in the 100+ deg. F heat here in Northern California.
To answer your question about the intake, I do think that it is ideal to route it outside the engine bay for cooler intake temps. Here is the setup
on my bus:
The black piece is tig welded tubing that was powdercoated black. You could probably piece something similar together out of elbow tubing and
couplers which would not require the welding skills.
I'm really stoked on your build, can't wait to see it on the road. Keep up the good work!
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posted on February 7th, 2014 at 07:57 PM
Nice neat looking installation Bucknasty - glad its working for you, I really think its the way to go.
We have similar high temps here in summer - went camping last summer with 4 people, full load of camping gear and trailer. No engine over heating
problems over the 1200km trip, only people - looking at fitting a/c but will have to reverse manifold back to original to fit compressor.
Well done.
1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
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posted on February 8th, 2014 at 12:55 PM
Bucknasty
Thanks for the comments
I still don't have mine on the road yet. It might be the slowest conversion ever!
Nolan karmann 141 had been helping me a lot. Joel and Ian also.
Just ironing out a wiring bug. For some reason i can't see a signal at the ecu fan signal . I think the ecu should earth a relay and turning the
fans on.
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posted on February 8th, 2014 at 12:59 PM
Bucknasty
Another question
I see you have the valance tinware still in. That is important for air cooled but I was wondering does it trap heat inside the engine bay?
Bucknasty
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posted on February 9th, 2014 at 05:42 AM
Thanks for the nice comments gents, I'm really happy with the setup. I did add the JK Earz to my intake vents to add more air pressure to the
radiators per the recommendation of Karmann141. My radiators/shrouds/fans are OEM scirrocco. Only the left side ever runs the fan, so there is some
redundancy if it fails. Fans are hooked to the thermostats in the radiators rather than the ECU. I'm running a very basic aftermarket EFI that has
limited inputs and outputs so this was easier.
The rear apron has been trimmed to allow the hot air to escape. There is plenty more metal to cut if I end up needing to, but so far, so good.
The builder did a thread on shoptalkforums.com for my bus and I have my own on earlybay.com. The Subaru swap starts at the bottom of page 10 if you
want to skip all the show pictures and other shenanigans in the thread:
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posted on February 10th, 2014 at 05:30 PM
Nice job bucknasty
I had the same idea with my valance
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posted on February 11th, 2014 at 07:19 AM
plans for aircon
Hey buck
Where are you? UK or usa?
I see you got the compressor. What are your plans for aircon?
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posted on February 11th, 2014 at 07:45 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Hey buck
Where are you? UK or usa?
I see you got the compressor. What are your plans for aircon?
I have a nice VWOA under dash A/C unit that I plan on plumbing to the Subaru compressor. I also plan on running a vanagon style heater under the back
seat, possibly plumbed to the factory heater ducts.
I'm located in Northern California, about 90 miles east of San Francisco.
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posted on February 11th, 2014 at 01:35 PM
Hi Bucknasty
I had my fans on a WBX conversion I did to a Beetle years ago triggered by by a sensor in the radiator, the problem I had was that there was delay
with the fans coming on.
If you could fit the fan switch to the motor you would avoid this issues.
Steve
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posted on February 12th, 2014 at 04:07 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi Bucknasty
I had my fans on a WBX conversion I did to a Beetle years ago triggered by by a sensor in the radiator, the problem I had was that there was delay
with the fans coming on.
If you could fit the fan switch to the motor you would avoid this issues.
Steve
Thanks for the suggestion Steve. If I remember correctly, the builder who did my swap selected radiator thermostats that were set a bit lower than
the stock Subaru set point to compensate for this problem. Additionally I have a big red warning light next to my water temp gauge that is hooked up
to my ECU to turn on when the temps reach 225F before it overheats. My water temp gauge is pretty cheap and reads higher by about 10-15 degrees, so
it's really just for reference. The red light has never come on so far, and I have driven it in 100 degree F weather around town. I have not driven
any long distances with it yet.
Please excuse the dirt and rust- I pulled this bus out of a field where it sat for over ten years. I have a lot of work to do making it look as good
as it runs now with the ej22.
Sorry SunnyJim I feel like I am crashing your thread. Hopefully my posts are helpful to you or anyone considering a swap like this...
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posted on February 12th, 2014 at 06:57 PM
No worries mate
Bucknasty
Dont worry about crashing Your comments are all valuable and helps us all learn.
It is good I can ask lots of questions.
what are you doing about a heater ?
I plan to run twin heater hOses up Into the cabin and install something like this unit
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posted on February 13th, 2014 at 04:44 AM
SunnyJim,
What you linked is pretty much what I had in mind for heat. Except that unit has both AC and a Heater core. Since I was planning on running the VWOA
underdash AC unit, I think I'll only need the heater core function. This picture shows what the unit looks like but it's not my bus:
The heater setup I was looking at pretty much appears the same as what you posted, but with no evaporator for the AC. It's just a black box with
fittings for the coolant and outlets for the heat. Also I heard a vanagon heater core is similar, but I honestly have not put much time into this
part of the swap yet, just a little preliminary research.
I saw this website has heater valves that can be cable controlled so I was hoping to hook it up to the stock control levers and plumb the heater core
outlets to the stock heater tubes. I plan on mounting it below the back seat. There will be a switch for the blower to control the output. See link
below:
I probably won't get to this aspect of the bus until I do some work on my interior and exterior. I need to make the bus look a little nicer and more
comfortable now that the running gear is updated. I also bought a 091 transmission to rebuild later with taller gears to match the powerband of the
EJ22. Right now I don't use 1st gear at all with the stock 002 transmission.
Have you seen this video of my bus? This is what you can look forward to when your swap is done...
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posted on February 13th, 2014 at 10:03 PM
AIRCON IN Future
Bucknasty
Yes mine has the healer core but also the evaporator for future aircon I will just connect the heater but do cold air at some stage in the future
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posted on February 14th, 2014 at 03:18 PM
holy crap
Buck nasty
I just saw the video holy crap that speedo moves
Is that through the stock 3 rib gearbox ?
what RPMS you got at 60MPH?
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posted on February 15th, 2014 at 04:02 AM
Yes that is a stock 3 rib trans. I feel like it's going to break if I drive it like that so I have chilled out quite a bit once I got used to the
ej22 power. I don't have a tach installed so I'm not sure of the RPMs, but if I hook up a laptop to the Microsquirt module I would be able to see
all the engine details. I don't have one now but I plan to get one so I can continue optimizing the efi fuel map using the "auto-tune" function on
the tuner studio software, which is free. I also plan on getting a tach that looks just like the deluxe clock someone is selling on earlybay. My bus
runs smaller tires all around because my it's lowered so the speedo is off by about 9mph. The video is a little misleading in that respect though
the acceleration is real.
I used a calculator to try to figure out my engine speed at 55 and 65 mph given the stock 002 gearing and the 175/70r14 tires I'm running, and it
came out to 3500 rpm and 4100 rpm, respectively. I think that is for actual MPH, not what my speedo is reading. Not exactly optimized but I plan on
improving it with the built up 091 six rib later on.
Here's a video of the acceleration just in 4th gear from a cruising speed:
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posted on February 16th, 2014 at 12:39 PM
Bucknasty
Before I started my conversion I was made aware that I might end up with the rpms being too high . Everything suggests eventually getting the
matching subie 5 speed box is the way to go.
However being in the USA I think you have the option of getting a new box with taller 3rd and 4th cogs at a reasonable cost.
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posted on March 29th, 2014 at 11:06 AM
fuel pump sound- need some help pls
it is slow progress but I am moving forward.
I have got sunnyjim 71 kombi ej22 to the stage I can drive around the block
however I hear a fuel pump strain noise driving slowly 1st to 2nd 3rd when under slight load up a small hill at 20-30kmh. the engine jerks a bit
like running on 2 or 3 cyllinders . being in the car at the the time feels like it could be spark or fuel. Checked spark leads. However the fuel
pump sounds suggests to me i might have a blockage or dud fuel pump.
It is a new Bosch OEm VL commodore only $60 so it is possible I might have ebay tash?
I checked fuel lines to make sure no kinks- all ok , 2 new fuel filters. I also made sure the inlet was a bigger size than original. (I now use the
original inlet for the fuel return)
No such sound at idle, only when I put some load on it, and not all the time
Any suggestions?
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posted on March 29th, 2014 at 05:45 PM
Correction .. I meant to say I have made a new fuel tank outlet .It feeds the fuel pump via a filter. This outlet is bigger than the original. I now
use the original outlet as the fuel return.
So I think this rules out the pump starving.
Once again suggestions welcome.
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posted on March 29th, 2014 at 05:46 PM
Correction .. I meant to say I have made a new fuel tank outlet .It feeds the fuel pump via a filter. This outlet is bigger than the original. I now
use the original outlet as the fuel return.
So I think this rules out the pump starving.
Once again suggestions welcome.
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posted on March 29th, 2014 at 05:46 PM
Correction .. I meant to say I have made a new fuel tank outlet .It feeds the fuel pump via a filter. This outlet is bigger than the original. I now
use the original outlet as the fuel return.
So I think this rules out the pump starving.
Once again suggestions welcome.
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Any pics of your pump setup?
Is it well below the tank with a good gravity feed?
How big is your outlet from the tank feeding the pump?
For a gravity feed you would want atleast 12mm.
A cheap Chinese pump probably isnt helping but ideally with any external pump setup they work much better with a surge tank and lift pump to keep the
pressure to it.
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posted on March 30th, 2014 at 01:51 PM
pump set up
hi Joel
The pump is mounted low against the chasis rail
I am away his week and will post some pics later .
I don't have a 2nd pump or a surge tank . I thought that set up was for hi performance or racers which mine is not
I can't remember the size of the new outlet , I guess I can measure it.
can I assume that straining noise is the pump or fuel pump feed ? It can't be caused by the fuel return ?
If I was to replace with a better pump what do you suggest ? Would I go a higher pressure or higher flow type ?
As it never happens at idle can I assume it is fuel and not electrical?
Just after the tank I have the clear plastic fuel filter it then goes to the pump then it goes to a EFI filter (rated for EJ 22) then to the motor
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Just a genuine 044 Bosch pump, they are a bit more $$ but as they say buy once, cry once.
Some people like the Walbro ones, I've fitted a couple of intank ones to mainstream cars and had no complaints but no experience with external
ones.
Pumps usually get noisy for a couple of reasons in my experience.
Low voltage, hot fuel, and cavitation.
I suspect with yours it is caviation as underload it just cant draw in enough fuel.
I doubt it would be hot fuel as you are not running off a surge tank,
I had that problem early on as the pump was recirculating the hot fuel returning from the regulator so it wasnt getting a chance to cool off back in
the tank.
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posted on April 1st, 2014 at 05:15 PM
thx for advice
hi Joel
thanks for the reply. I like to Check and rule out the easy things first before I buy another fuel pump
What about the clear plastic and paper filter just after the fuel tank ? Can that be a restriction at all ? Are there such a thing as a high flow pre
filter?
Another simple thing I could do is to put a second pre filter in parallel to double the flow in theory .
The wiring is new and next to the battery so should not suffer from low Voltage
Replacing the pump will be easier than pulling the gas tank out and re welding inlets and outlets .
I guess I made the mistake before not paying attention on EBay . I thought it was Bosch but it is Bosch spec!
Can you recommend where to buy an original Bosch pump?
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Those clear filters are only rock catchers, they are not a restriction to the flow.
You have to be so careful when buying Bosch pumps especiallly off ebay as so many places sell counterfiet ones.
I got mine through an online motorsport website but unfortunately seems to be dead link now.
Expect to pay around $250 for a genuine one but weeding out all the fakes is hard on ebay, one guy even states that even though the boxes are genuine
Bosch the pumps arent
Hopefully someone on here might know a good source for genuine ones but this guy seems to get a good wrap
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posted on April 5th, 2014 at 01:29 PM
its very hard to find a genuine one. I would say 95% are fake. The fake are getting to the point its impossible to tell unless you cut them open.
Same with walbro ones.
I personally pull 2nd hand ones from cars where I know they are genuine, test them all, pick the best ones. Have not had a 2nd hand one fail yet.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
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posted on April 7th, 2014 at 08:11 AM
I will chase an original
Guys good advice thanks
I will hunt down an original 044 Bosch pump
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posted on April 8th, 2014 at 07:11 PM
Is bolting to the chassis with anti crush tubes preferable to welding? Engineering wise I mean.
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posted on April 15th, 2014 at 08:42 AM
welding
stephen
I am not an expert in that so will let someone else comment.
But they way I have done mine with 8 huge nuts and bolts has come in real handy.
I have needed to lower/raise the engine many times working on other things and I could not have done it if it was all welded in.
it took many times to get the engine at the right height, the ej22 has a low sump , so i pushed the engine up as high as possible and gaining some
ground clearance
now after all this i think the brackets to the chassis rails could be welded but it took me a long time to get the final position right.
posted on February 7th, 2014 at 07:57 PM
