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Author: Subject:  One side lower than the other?
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question.gif posted on April 19th, 2014 at 09:58 AM
One side lower than the other?


Hi Everyone

I recently installed 2.5'' drop spindles to the front of my Standard
70 Beetle. In doing so also replaced the two shocks with new gas stock replacment.

Everything went well with the install no dramas. Now though, i noticed that the drivers side is sitting ALOT lower than the passengers. Rubbing(with spare tyre in). I expected it thinking it would be the tyres yet the other side does not rub.

The difference was probably there before, it just stands out more now.

There is a 25mm difference from gaurd to top tyre. When on jack stands, from tyre to floor has around 7mm difference. I have same size tyres all round.

The rear end measured even on both sides.

Is there any adjustment on the standard front torsion bars? To compensate for the difference.

Reading around it seems the rear can cause alot of issues also seen at the front.

Thanks




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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 06:58 PM



Eep! there is no separate side adjustments for the height of front torsion leaves.

The camber adjusters at the same position either side? maybe its causing a wheel to 'tuck' in?




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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 07:01 PM



Could be a broken leaf in the front, or it could be the rear set differently from side to side. The rear will diagonally set the front also.



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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 09:03 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by helbus
Could be a broken leaf in the front, or it could be the rear set differently from side to side. The rear will diagonally set the front also.



Is there any way of knowing/testing for broken leaf ?




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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 02:42 PM



more than likely its been in a stack over the years and was never repaired correctly

or even the front bulk head has been bent




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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 03:56 PM



you should check it from the floor pan as it may have different guards on .



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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 06:45 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
you should check it from the floor pan as it may have different guards on .


Yes, well i think they are original guards, but they have certainly had wrk done to them, particaly the pas side. RH side seems pretty much untouched.

I greased the front bar today on all grease nipples until grease came out of the joints. Then jumped up and down to see if the bearings were sticking. If i pull up on the gaurd on the RH side, it will rise to were it is even to other side. If i push down on it, it goes down but does not spring back up.

Not sure how springy the front torsion should be?

Its realy disheartening, nearly had the old girl back on the road. Now it seems to be pointing towards a new front beam.

~~~AHHH Frustrated~~




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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 08:33 PM



Sounds like broken leaves.
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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 09:29 PM



As you have found, its usually the rear causing the issue.
Jack up the front from the center and measure the rear, should tell you. The reason is the vehicke rear weight bias.




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posted on April 21st, 2014 at 09:28 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
As you have found, its usually the rear causing the issue.
Jack up the front from the center and measure the rear, should tell you. The reason is the vehicke rear weight bias.


So jack from center of beam get front wheels off the ground.
Where do i measure from in the rear, just from the floor to gaurd?

Thanks




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posted on April 21st, 2014 at 10:52 AM



I just went out to the shed and jacked the beetle up. Took some measurements from ground to center of fender. I draw a basic diagram to help understand and see the measurements i took.

Hope it helps.


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posted on April 21st, 2014 at 01:53 PM



By the diagram the rear is out but odd the front is not. I recommend using chassis points to measure from as it is less able to be changed. Many times accident damage is not repaired fully so measuring the panels can be inaccurate.
So at the rear, the best place is at the torsion bar covers, at the lower fwd bolt there is a cast bracket, either the lower edge of the casting, or one of the lower bolts, whatever you feel is easiest and repeatable on both sides.
At the front the beam outer ends/bottom of the shock tower AND the 17mm spanner size bolts at the fwd bulkhead about 400mm rearwad of the beam, as someone mentioned earlier, the framehead of the pan, where front end is bolted, can be missaligned and both these measurements will help determine this.
You need to measure accurately and be on a flat floor.




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posted on April 21st, 2014 at 06:50 PM



Thanks for the detailed help.
The measurements are as follows.

REAR TORSION COVER BOLTS.

LH(bolt 1)- 21.4cm
RH(bolt 1)-21.2cm

LH(bolt 2)-23.5cm
RH(bolt 2)-23.2cm

FRONT BOTTOM SHOCK TOWER

LH- 24.1cm
RH 24 cm

17MM BOLT FLOOR PAN/BULK HEAD

LH - 27 cm
RH- 26.5 cm

From what i see the main difference is the floor pan. 5mm!!
even if i get that 5mm back i still need another 15mm on the drivers side to match the other side.

Thanks again for all your input.




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posted on April 21st, 2014 at 07:51 PM



Well done, altho some descrepency, not all that bad. Seems the bodywork/guards are the worst culprit



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posted on April 22nd, 2014 at 07:39 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Well done, altho some descrepency, not all that bad. Seems the bodywork/guards are the worst culprit


Thats what i thought, surely a couple mm here and there isnt too bad. The floor pan doesnt look too bad, as in major previous damgage.

So i guess the next step would be to work out how to even out the guards?




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posted on April 24th, 2014 at 02:51 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by jjwebb123



I greased the front bar today on all grease nipples until grease came out of the joints. Then jumped up and down to see if the bearings were sticking. If i pull up on the gaurd on the RH side, it will rise to were it is even to other side. If i push down on it, it goes down but does not spring back up.




I would be concerned about this if I have interpreted it correctly, something is going on here.....




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posted on April 24th, 2014 at 04:59 PM



Check and see if the rear has different camber?? assuming the rear has been lowered? if it does then reset the rear torsion bars and arms.



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posted on April 24th, 2014 at 05:28 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Special Air Service
Quote:
Originally posted by jjwebb123



I greased the front bar today on all grease nipples until grease came out of the joints. Then jumped up and down to see if the bearings were sticking. If i pull up on the gaurd on the RH side, it will rise to were it is even to other side. If i push down on it, it goes down but does not spring back up.




I would be concerned about this if I have interpreted it correctly, something is going on here.....

Marvelous....you've solved the problem !




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posted on May 8th, 2014 at 07:18 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
As you have found, its usually the rear causing the issue.
Jack up the front from the center and measure the rear, should tell you. The reason is the vehicke rear weight bias.



This has been the reason for all my crook bugs. but as mentioned, panels after repair are never perfect. a few MM in an old car imo is perfectly fine.

check the front leaves for brokens, and straighten out the rear :)




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posted on May 8th, 2014 at 10:28 AM



I managed to lift rh gaurd to avoid rubbing at pace. it still rubs
at full lock and slight left hand turns at speed. (body roll).

Its driveable although I would like to further improve it.

is it a simple step to check leaf/spring integrity? ??????




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posted on May 8th, 2014 at 11:40 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by jjwebb123

is it a simple step to check leaf/spring integrity? ??????


No, trailing arms and then leaf pack need to be removed to check




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posted on May 17th, 2014 at 08:55 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Quote:
Originally posted by jjwebb123

is it a simple step to check leaf/spring integrity? ??????


No, trailing arms and then leaf pack need to be removed to check


Can new leaf packs be purchased and replaced?

It tends to make sense that after 44 years with someone sitting on one side that there would be more wear on that side.




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