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Author: Subject:  D.B History: Part Two:Tube Chassis Car. SOLD.
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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 07:35 PM
D.B History: Part Two:Tube Chassis Car. SOLD.


This car is now for sale, see latest posts beginning page 2.

Around the end of 1998 I contracted Simon Holgerson
(V8 Bourbon Bug) to build me a chassis to the rolling stage
to my own design specs.
I wanted a beam front and De-deon rear axle, and originally
wanted to use an Oval body that I had...but it ended up
being too rusty.

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]

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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 07:42 PM
Trial Assembly of Drive-train.


Used my Bus box but withe shorter 28 spline axles.

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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 07:49 PM
Trial assembled the whole car before paint.


Here is my Brother John and Snuff the dog.
My Bro has always been a Go-Getter and massive help
in my projects, from finding materials, to painting my cars.
And he always makes himself available when I need a favour....especially in the dollars department.
How else do you think an award wages fitter and turner
can afford to do this?!

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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 07:55 PM
Final Assembly


While my Brother was away prepping and painting the
early '60s body (scrapped the oval idea due to rust),
I was painting and assembling the chassis.
All the aluminium was powder coated silver.
All hardware was gold/zinc plated.

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]

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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 08:04 PM
Finally Together!


Over the two weeks of Christmas 2001 I did the final assembly.
It came out weighing 1750lbs with me aboard(I was over 100kg but am now around 75).
Pan car was 1870lbs....but I was slimmer then.
I would guess with the N/A engine, and me being about
60lbs lighter, that it would weigh about 1600lbs with me.
(about 750kg).

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]

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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 08:13 PM



Over a one year period I struggled with all sorts of
handling and engine woes.
Eventually I added 60lbs of ballast up front and increased the tyre size to 11.5" x 28' tall M&H's.
Eventually I got a couple of high Nines @ 147, and a
great 6.19@117 on the 1/8 mile at Warwick.
But sadly at the next Willowbank meeting I crashed on the top end.
See some of the carnage in the "Damage" post that Pete started.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=47106&page=1#pid439673 

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]




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posted on December 20th, 2005 at 08:22 PM
Back up a bit....the first few bars.


This is the old '56 Oval body and the start of the TIG welded, mild steel chassis work.

The oval body was way too rusty, and so I ended up scrapping it.
I found a clean early sixties shell to use instead.

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]

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posted on December 21st, 2005 at 07:59 AM



So guess that's a whole new car then.

Just out of interest, any reason why you've chosen a KL beam over BJ?




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posted on December 21st, 2005 at 05:34 PM



I had a look at dedion suspension on the net. I'm surprised it didn't work. What were the issues do you think? Was the beam bending? was there some sort of odd rear steering effect going on under load?




[ Edited on 21-12-2005 by pete wood ]




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posted on December 21st, 2005 at 06:36 PM



The K&L front suspension was much lighter.

Ladder bars in conjunction with the De-deon
wouldn't allow the car to "roll", and it felt like an
over-laden ute.
Parrallel four link would have been better.

Reaction to engine torque would unload
one tyre....that symptom reduced as the car
progressed down the track, and picked
up speed.

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]




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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 02:30 PM



so I guess the 56 body is the new car you are building?

What rear end setup will you use this time?

BTW, can I just say, even though I can see it's cost you lots of time and effort, people like you give the rest of us the guts to have a go with our own cars. keep up the good work.




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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 06:07 PM



Thanks for the kind words pete.
The oval body has been scrapped and was the original
body that I planned on using.
I ended up finding a mid sixtys shell that was in much
better shape, and that is what was on the car when I crashed.
The car is quite reparable.
I am still undecided regarding the rear suspension.
I did narrow a type 3 IRS to use but it is heavy.
I also split the De-deon axle in the middle and
anchor it under the tranny with big Heim joints.
The result was like a swingaxle in wheel travel,
but with a low roll centre. (still with CVs).
I really need to keep the CV joints due to the 930 trans and its proposed position.




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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 06:09 PM



I think Dave Burchall(?) has some spy photos from when he was up here last.....Dave?



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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 07:05 PM



You seem to be getting that spark back Dave...
Are we going to see this beast out again someday?

Either way, this car is part of Oz drag racing history and it lived a fleeting but eventful life. Hopefully to one day return...New and improved!

Its great to see these pics, if for nothing else, but to see how you did it, who helped (cheers to your bro) and to marvel at the tenasity!

Good stuff!




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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 07:53 PM



Front suspension with rack & peanut steering...massive bump steer!

[ Edited on 22-12-2005 by dangerous ]

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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 07:56 PM



Check out where the shift rod ended up!

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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 07:59 PM



Ha! Quick Shiftin 'Highballin' BERG shifter!!! Good stuff!
I know some hotrodding Dub brothers that'd love that shift set-up!
:lol:




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posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 08:03 PM



Thanks Simon!



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posted on December 25th, 2005 at 04:35 PM



No wonder you got bump steer :duh

So what motor is going in it this time, the old blown jobby?



[ Edited on 25-12-2005 by pete wood ]




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posted on December 26th, 2005 at 07:51 AM



I was thinking Normally Aspirated.....Blowers are sold.

[ Edited on 16-1-2007 by dangerous ]




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posted on December 26th, 2005 at 08:53 AM



With the rack located in the same position, I was able to get the bump steer down to nearly zero
by adjusting the height at which the heims attatched to the stubs.
Technically it needed to be mounted to the lower beam ( in my case) with the tie rods running parrallel with the trailing arms...but the fuel tank was already mounted.




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posted on January 1st, 2006 at 05:10 PM
Trailing arms Modified


Here is the modified trailing arm that I am thinking about using.
The forward hiem joint mounts about 32 inches forward of the axle centre line,
and the other one anchors to the chassis under the CV joint.
The coil over shock mounts ontop of the bearing housing.
Because of how I have attatched the rod ends, camber and toe can be adjusted
for any given ride height.
Despite the swing axle wheel travel, I think this will still be better than the usual drag racing swing axle setup,
because of it's adjustability and lower roll centre.

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posted on January 1st, 2006 at 05:15 PM
930 tranny...MASSIVE!


Here is the 930 4-speed tranny.
It has a crownwheel that is about 9.5" in diameter.
For comparison, the beetle is just under 7" and the bus is just over 7.5".
The ratios are very tall but Albins makes many ratios and a dog-rig kit for this tranny,
so the crappy synchros will go.

[ Edited on 1-1-2006 by dangerous ]

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posted on January 1st, 2006 at 05:32 PM



Jeebus!...that box is tall....
Looks not much longer than a 091 though....Inline shift rod too...
Ive never driven a old 930...So is the shift gate the same as a dub?
What sorta clutch you gonna run with that....Multi plate?




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posted on January 1st, 2006 at 06:46 PM



The tranny is about an inch longer at both ends, so will need to be pushed forward
about 2" to get the belhousing face back to standard.
The clutch will be the same single disc 180mm deal I am using now but with a Saab hydraulic throw out bearing.
I used a dual disc deal for the blown engine, but if I ever went for boost again I would most likely use ONE of
those sintered Iron discs in the same diameter.
The shift pattern is same for the forward hears, but I think forward and left of first is where reverse is...but I have
never driven a 930 either!

[ Edited on 2-1-2006 by dangerous ]




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posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 06:54 AM
Saab Hydraulic Throw-out unit.


This unit, and the separate bearing that clips on after the boot is fitted,
was bought from a Saab Spares shop.
I made an adapter so that it would bolt onto where the Porsche slide tube used to be.
It takes up alot of belhousing depth, and will require a line fitted,
and an extension to the bleeder nipple so that I can bleed the system with the engine fitted.
Why? Because the 930 uses a "pull type" clutch arm, and I want to keep my current clutches.

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posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 02:42 PM



Very trick! Impressed to say the least...
For years we have been running the usual HD KEP type clutches and a very strong left leg.....
Have thought about upgrading to a Hydralic clutch but havent actually done it.
This set-up would make life so much better!...
The advantages with this rig are obvious.
Would it be tough to make it work in a VW type transaxle?




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posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 06:28 PM



Because of its height, it would be difficult to make this unit fit inside a VW bellhousing,
although a 2lt bus belhousing would go close with a single disc, diafragm deal.
You can get a CNC brand slave cylinder and replace the cross fork bushes with bronze, and most probs will be gone.
Also the later style diafragms are not as heavy to disengage.




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posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 06:28 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by humpty
Very trick! Impressed to say the least...
For years we have been running the usual HD KEP type clutches and a very strong left leg.....
Have thought about upgrading to a Hydralic clutch but havent actually done it.
This set-up would make life so much better!...
The advantages with this rig are obvious.
Would it be tough to make it work in a VW type transaxle?


Kimm Garland from indian has a Hydraulic setup on his crewcab. Can't remember exactly which slave cylider it uses, but it's all pretty simple in a baykombi. Be a bit fidly to setup in a beetle though. You'd probably want to go to a whole different pedal box I'd say. Something that pivots from the top, not the floor.




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posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 06:31 PM



Here is the CNC Slave cylinder.
My Brother set up the master cylinder on a late beetle (steel pedals, not cast),
by welding a boss onto the pedal arm, and mounting the M'cyl to the fire wall.

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