| [ Total Views: 307019 | Total Replies: 964 | Thread Id: 66140 ] |
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 matberry
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| posted on November 2nd, 2009 at 08:40 AM |
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Fantastic work Ian. A real credit to you.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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 2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 2nd, 2009 at 07:44 PM |
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Thanks guys.
Made a little more progress today. The header and turbine housings are now coated with a ceramic primer, which was this afternoons progress. They get
a coating of turbo x black ceramic tomorrow.
Also sourced a relay and fuse box from a late model kia rio today. It will become the main power distribution point for all the car's power. It came
with 4 great heavy duty mult-pin connectors, which i'll be using to allow the engine to be wired through a single connector. Hope to put in a big
day on it tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
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Flintstones
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| posted on November 2nd, 2009 at 09:47 PM |
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That's one hot engine Ian.
Looks much better with the black rocker covers.
Cheers
D
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on November 17th, 2009 at 09:30 PM |
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Ok long time no post again. I had some major engineering challanges come up that required some creative engineering to work around.
The first was the starter motor pinion. That actually turned out to be easy. What turned into a mission was just getting the engine back in the car.
The gearbox had been fitted with a SAAB 900 input shaft mounted throw out slave cylinder and throw out bearing. The problem was that it was 15mm too
tall so the engine wouldnt fit. I had a go at altering the saab bearing by machining the pistons and the housing a bit to get less height but in the
end i could only get it down another 10mm so Ive had to source something else. A few day's of googling and I found this:
This is a Howe racing billet throw out bearing, courtasy of Summit racing in the US. $250+USD later, but it was the only way I was going to get this
to fit. The height of this bearing compressed is only 40mm.
The inside of the bearing is designed to slip on a colar that goes around the input shaft. Completely diferent to the Saab bearing. It also has an
o-ring on the inside, which is there to stop the bearing slipping around all over the place, not to actually seal anything. The piston is visible in
this picture, and is the center part that pushes the billet outer part (with the hose fittings connected) forward towards the pressure plate.
So with a butchered saab throwout bearing in my posession I decided to use the inner piston of this bearing to make the collar that the howe bearing
could slide on. The alloy mounting plate was machined with an interference fit, and then heated to allow the inner colar to be slipped in. I havnt
done a lot of this sort of thing, and I admit i get a huge buzz out of having succeeded in making this thing. Then having it actually work!. The pin
you see coming out of the mounting plate is used to stop the bearing assembly from spinning in the bell housing. I put a seal inside this plate as
well to seal onto the input shaft.
Next in goes the bearing. Fluid supply via the lower hose and a remote bleeder on the top. The bearing has a maximum of about 12mm throw, but that
is determined by the master cylinder size. A data sheet provided showed the 3/4" master cylinder I had chosen for this to be perfect for getting
5-6mm throw which is required to operate the kennedy pressure plate. I can adjust free play and preload on the actuator that links the pedal to the
master cylinder.
Last of all was the absolute bitch of a job of trying to get the engine back in. I'd done the clutch twin plate alighment a few weeks ago using a
borrowed RX7 input shaft but after my first installation attempt of the engine, the plates had all moved. I wasnt able to get hold of the guy I had
borred it from again, so ended up using an old vw input shaft with a ton of tape wrapped around it.... which didnt align the spines. 3 attempts, a
lot of profanity and 2 hrs later I finally got it in.
So the engine is now bolted in at last! Next tomorow will be installation of the header and the turbo's and intercooler plumbing. The only
chalanges remaining are setting up the oil supply lines for the turbo's, and the engine oil supply/return and thermostat. Of course there is wiring
the ecu, too.
Other progress.... The car is now wired for the most part. All dash gauges, main relay and fuse box, fuel pump, LED indicators (mounted inside the
911 headlamps), parkers, and incredably bright Xenon HID 6000K H1 headlights. Its not an understatement to say that the lights on the VW are now
easily as good if not better than that which are on my GTR. Simply amazing, and well worth the money that getting new genuine german porsche 911
headlamp assemblies. Ive sealed the headlamp to the guards using some pinch weld rubber. Its a bit bigger than I would have liked, but the look is
growing on me.
Had to pull the tank so I could fill the clutch master cylinder with fluid. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow too before it all goes back together
properly.
Thats all for now. Hope to have more to post tomorrow or thursday.
Cheers,
Ian
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grogy
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| posted on November 17th, 2009 at 09:52 PM |
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great work, a real sophisticated bug, looking forward to the seeing finished product
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on November 17th, 2009 at 10:04 PM |
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Thanks mate.
Oh yeah, i forgot to mention... the clutch feels like steeping on a marshmellow. Very smooth in its operation, and because its only a 1700lb plate it
should be pretty streetable still with any luck.
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SLAPPA
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 06:03 AM |
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Looking good Ian....
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 07:04 AM |
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What was the solution to extend the starter pinion Ian?
Getting close now!!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 03:50 PM |
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Fantastic Ian!!!
How fast is that little fuel tank going to drain? I love the colour, the motor, the headlights ......
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
A.k.a.: Brennden Alder
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 06:38 PM |
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6000k headlights!!!!! Cops are sooo gonna love you mate LOL
Had a mate with 5000k and he got pulled up all the time and people were always flashing high beam at him which was funny.
Good to see engine has finally found it's home!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 07:38 PM |
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I fully expect to be stopped regularly bo the cops when driving this on the road. I'll definatly be carrying around copies of the engineering
paperwork with me so I dont have to get the car inspected every time it happens. I dont think i'll be driving at night all that often so im not too
concerned about the colour of the lights.
Here's some pics of the modified starter motor drive setup. Dave had made the alloy adapter for the box when he had it in his posession, but ive
machined a little off both sides of it to narrow it about 15mm.
I then got the toyota camry 3S starter, remove the splined pinion gear, and machined off the gear part so I had a spline to fit the starter. I then
made a sleeve to extend the pinion another 15mm that accepts a standard vw pinion gear from a german 12v starter motor. The splined part is then held
in place with a grub screw to a flattened section on the splined output shaft on the starter.
Im pretty happy with how its turned out, but the tolerances in the drive mechanism of the starter leave a little to be desired. Im not sure if this
is typical for these toyota gear drive starters or if i just have a cheap non-genuine one. When it throws out though it seems to tighten everything
up and there is less movement when its at full extension. I wont know if its going to work till i give it a go i guess.
Cheers,
Ian
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STIDUB
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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awesome progress, its been awhile since i looked at this, how is the headlight mounted into the bucket itself? doesnt have any mounting screws visable
& thats what i want with mine eventuallly...
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less |
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on November 18th, 2009 at 08:35 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by STIDUB
awesome progress, its been awhile since i looked at this, how is the headlight mounted into the bucket itself? doesnt have any mounting screws visable
& thats what i want with mine eventuallly...
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Ive used a hook at the top and bottom of the headlight to hook onto the headlight trim from the inside. These hooks are basicly a piece of flat 1mm
steel plate, bent appropriately and bolted to the headlight bucket in the guard. The bolt holes in the guard are slotted so I can pull the headlight
back flush against the guard.
There are no visible screws from the outside of the headlamps. The porsche headlight trim doesnt have the little tab at the bottom that the vw
headlamps have.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on November 19th, 2009 at 07:06 PM |
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This is looking absolutely insane Ian! It's good to see the projesct is starting to draw to a close. The finished product is a credit to all the hard
you've put and it's turned out amazing.
I'm loving the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing idea. I'm going to look into something like this for the hydraulic clutch I'm putting on my
buggy.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Flintstones
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| posted on November 19th, 2009 at 09:48 PM |
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Impressive!!!
I still can't get over how wide those guards are  
cheers
D
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on November 21st, 2009 at 06:50 PM |
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Another update...
The brake fluid resivour is now full and the car now has brakes. I have mounted the battery inside the car on the front firewall, and the main power
wiring to the front of the car is now done.
The basic car wiring is all but done now too. I just need to wire tail lights and make a new variable windscreen wiper controller. The speedo is now
wired to the ABS sensors on the left front wheel hub, and seems to work though it will need to be re-calibrated once the car is driving again.
The loom kit for the ecu wont arrive till tuesday or wednesday next week. That part of the car is being wired very seperately from the rest of the
car, using a single connector to allow the engine to be easily unplugged and disconnected should removal be required.
Ive got the main part of the turbo header back on the car too and both turbo's mounted. No pictures of that just yet. Its not finished so im holding
out toll tomorrow properly before taking more photos of that. Ive got to make up some new wastegate actuator mounts too, as because the housings have
been rotated the standard mounts put the actuator rod in the wrong place to operate the wastegate flaps. Should be pretty easy to sort out though.
Cheers,
Ian
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Flintstones
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| posted on November 22nd, 2009 at 07:36 AM |
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What wiring kit did you end up deciding to use Ian?
Cheers
D
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on November 22nd, 2009 at 12:18 PM |
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The wiring panel is from a late model kia rio. It uses the modern micro blade fuses and fits pretty good. The rest of the loom is custom. No kit as
such.
Cheers,
Ian
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STIDUB
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| posted on November 22nd, 2009 at 08:00 PM |
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most interesting/unusual battery placement ive seen to this day
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less |
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waltermitty
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 11:53 AM |
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Ian the lack of update is very unsatisfactory!
No good enough. especially now as you / we are just about on the gravy stroke this is extremely frustrating!
Dont loose sight of the fact that there has been well over 50,000 views of this post and there must be many other post storkers like myself desperate
for another fix!
Regards Frustrated  
23 windows ...8 too many!
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JVLRacing
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 05:04 PM |
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CRAFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 06:38 PM |
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Sorry guys the past few weeks have been pretty crazy. I had surgery on my jaw and took a week off everything, and then out and bought a house.
Ive made a little more progress with the car. The pressure side of the induction side of the engine is now in the car. I'd like to share some
photo's but managed to lose my camera. I still need to do the air intakes for the turbo's. The alternator is now wired and installed, fan belt,
and the starter motor in and wired.
Ive been focusing on wiring for the moment. All the injectors and sensors for the EFI are installed and wired to a short loom, which I will be
terminating to a multi-pin plug tomorrow. Ive yet to run the main supply and return lines for the oil system, but the fittings for that, plus the
thermostat and all the plumbing for the front mounted oil coolers is all on its way from the US. That should hopefully be here inside a week.
All going well my house settles on the 23rd, so i'll me moving over the christmas-new year break. So the goal is to get as much done as possible on
the car till then... The less parts to box up the better is the plan.
Hopefully i'll find that camera soon too.
Cheers,
Ian
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 08:00 PM |
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Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915
trans to a Type 1.
Steve
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reub
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915
trans to a Type 1.
Steve
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I won't deal with the engine centre ever again.....once bitten, twice shy!
ps. you can get them direct fromt the states...
Reub
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 08:18 PM |
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Woops, thats good to know
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 08:21 PM |
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Yep the new house has a huge double bay shed with plenty of room for a hoist too. The starter motor drive looks pretty radical but the gear is only
really 14mm past where the factory toyota drive gear was. If it fails to work it will be due to the movement in the shaft. If that happens i'll make
a supporting shaft arrangement that will eliminate any side to side movement of the pinion..
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JVLRacing
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 08:35 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by reub
| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915
trans to a Type 1.
Steve
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I won't deal with the engine centre ever again.....once bitten, twice shy!
ps. you can get them direct fromt the states...
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x2 on that reubs
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Bugaru03
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| posted on December 26th, 2009 at 09:11 AM |
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This is fu...ing porn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 29th, 2009 at 10:24 PM |
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Hi Everyone,
Well its been a while but today I finally went out and bought a new camera. So here's the long over-due update at last.
The main challange (and expense) of late has been working out an effective way to route the supply and return oil lines for the dry sump system. Ive
got it all planned now, but still need to make the purchase. I'll be using bulkhead fittings to route oil through the front firewall under the fuel
tank into the driver compartment, where I will then be running the supply and return oil lines through the hot air tubes that run through the body to
the back of the car. There they will terminate to another bulkhead setup mounted on the rear firewall, and finally on to the pump. Supply lines will
be -16 and return will be a -12. The return goes back to the thermostat and then straight into the tank.
In the meantime though the plumbing for the front oil coolers and thermostat is 95% completed. The thermostati is also fixed in place and will soon
have a bracked made up for it that will hold it to one of the factory tank mounts to make the whole setup more rigid.
Oil cooler lines are all in -10 stainless braided hose.
The engine is now installed again, turbo header mounted, and turbo's installed. The header and turbines are internally ceramic coated with an
aluminium/ceramic coating and externally coated with turbo x.
Oil supply and returns for the turbo's are finished. Ive used a short 5/16th hard line/banjo fitting at the turbo end and it terminates to a -4 AN
fitting. The oil supply for the turbo's is in the block and splits off to 2 -4 AN fittings as well. Ive put an oil restrictor in the block end of
the arrangement to keep it all simple.
Fan shroud all bolted into place now too.
This is how the rear end looks now. The engine is now 90% wired as well. Ive completed wiring for all the sensors and injectors. All that remains is
the ignition system, which is currently on hold till I move to my new house inside the next 2 weeks. (9th Woo Hoo!). The new shed is great too! 6x6
meters and plenty of room for a hoist.
The plan for the ignition system is to use 4 x Blaster SS ECore coils with an MSD DIS 4 CDI system. As the ignition is distributorless I want to
operate the ignition as a 4 coil-on-plug system, as opposed to a 2 coil/waste spark arrangement. It makes for a more tidy wiring too as the cylinders
can all have short wiring to the coils. As opposed to centrally mounted coils and long leads to the cylinder pairs.
A few more pics of the wiring.
This is the power distribution panel from a Kia Rio. The micro fuses, and modern relays are great and better yet it fits there like it was made for a
VW.
Ive got all the electronic gauges wired now as well. There is a 30 wire numbered multi-core wire that runs through the car to the back carrying
signals forward for the gauges, and also control signals for the fuel pump and thermo fans from the Ecu.
Thats about all for the moment.
Cheers,
Ian
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Craig S
A.k.a.: Craig
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| posted on December 30th, 2009 at 07:05 AM |
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WOW!!
1969 Beetle - June
1974 L Bug - Gwendolyn
2002 Bora V6 4Motion - Anita
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