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 kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 12th, 2009 at 05:53 PM |
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| Quote: |
theres heaps on the market from budget empi jobbies from Classic VW
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36 Bridge Street
Rydalmere
2116 NSW
Australia
Thats where I collect my children!
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ian.mezz
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| posted on March 12th, 2009 at 06:00 PM |
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or these
http://www.beetleracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=28
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grumble
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| posted on March 12th, 2009 at 06:56 PM |
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Just to be niggly,the pictures of the adjustables shown aren't 3 bolt struts
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colonel mustard
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| posted on March 12th, 2009 at 07:00 PM |
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was just going to say that. http://www.volksconversions.com.au/SAVE0002.JPG they are 3 bolt struts
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 Bizarre
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| posted on March 12th, 2009 at 07:23 PM |
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no they are 2 bolt
Ooops - just looked again.
The one on the left is 3 bolt 
this is 3 bolt
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Futue te ipsum!!!
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 04:47 AM |
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Not 3 Bolt ! Now that sounds like an important fact lol. I was going to buy them so pleased that was pointed out. Iit sounds like I should make sure
that Rydalmere VeeDub have them for my 3 bolt front end first by the sounds of it. As Rydalmere is way closer than Queensland. Thanks all
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 07:13 AM |
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Hi
Im not sure what future plans you have for the car, but your going to fit wider wheels you need to go for the struts with a skinny spring like bizarre
posted.
Steve
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 07:21 AM |
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To be honest I would prefer to have standard wheels, as the ones on it now are wider than i like. But I really have no plans at all in changing whats
on it now. I am basically going to leave the car as is. Only plans are get engine running nice, Tidy up interior fix body up and respray. Its actually
for my wife and son to use. The skinny bizaar do sound a good idea though as it will give my son the option later I spose. I am also still debatting
just getting the one standard strut as well now. As that will save me a few bob in the short term. But even with that, should I be replacing both?
Must admit though that the adustable does sound good as I can, as was pointed out adjust for various wheels.
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Joel
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 01:34 PM |
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Hey David, as someone has widened the gaurds on your bug with standard 4" rims its gonna look like a fat women on roller blades
i'd stick with the good ol sunrasiers its got now
the more tread you have on the black stuff the better
you only need the slimline narrow coil style struts if you want rims wider than 6" plus theres abit of a price difference between them and stock
style adjustables
whilst a stock strut would be the ideal budget solutuion how can you beat the flexiblily of:
Bug goes up....Bug goes down
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 03:44 PM |
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Yer I do agree Joel, but will I need other things to? Like special inserts / fitting kits to use them or can I use stuff I already have? What is that
cat doing?
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Joel
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 04:51 PM |
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i'd just got home from brissy, he's probably licking squished insects off my bumper bar
you just buy them as a package deal, strut housings and inserts.
then just use your old springs and upper bearing housing and bolt in
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 06:11 PM |
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Dropped in to classic vee dub. Bloody cool stuff, but never had drivers side winder adjuster in stock so gotta go back anyway ! Still a bit confused
re struts as guy reckons I do need springs as well, so never bought them as gonna be busy with engine this weekend. And never had 370 bucks on me
anyway. But def looks the place to get some bits i need.
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Joel
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| posted on March 13th, 2009 at 06:21 PM |
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the ones CVD sell just use the original stock springs
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 21st, 2009 at 05:23 AM |
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Weekend again so back to Beetle. I got given a passenger strut during the week, so am at this stage just gonna fit that, and later for sure gonna go
adjustable. At least this way I can concentrate on getting the front end right first (i still dont really know if it is just the Strut that needs
replacing) gotta take care of the dosh as I know there will be a few more expenses still. Well will give you an update at end of day.
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Joel
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| posted on March 21st, 2009 at 07:14 AM |
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is it just the strut you got or does it have the stub axle still attached?
cos im sure you will find like most people do that separating the strut and stub axel on a 3 bolter isnt the most pleasent of jobs as they rust
together
trick i use is leave the strut bolted into the car, remove the sway bar and inner control arm bolt as well as the brake disc
now slog the shit out of the stub axle with a BFH and working around it should start to break loose
i read about guys on SBO all the time fighting with heat and pullers etc in bench vices yet my method hasnt failed me yet
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 21st, 2009 at 08:04 AM |
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Pleased I checked this first. Just found out there is a bike show at panthers today so had not started on Beetle, and will wait till later to start
now. I was though gonna remove top bolts first. So pleased I never, as it is not attached to stub axle.
PHEW
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Bizarre
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| posted on March 21st, 2009 at 08:16 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
i read about guys on SBO all the time fighting with heat and pullers etc in bench vices yet my method hasnt failed me yet
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My method works well to
ONLY buy 2 bolt cars
works every time for me
Futue te ipsum!!!
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 21st, 2009 at 08:30 AM |
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Now u tell me ! lol
Am starting to feel pleased I am not putting adjustables on or would be doing this twice.
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 10:55 AM |
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Whats the story of removing this one (arrowed) I have tried belting from bottom with nut on but dont want to continue if that is gonna damage it. Jeez
I hope it is the strut, It just dont look too bad in real life. But must be as cant see anything else. Re other matter Joel.
Will as u say hold off for now as may just be more, but will pm uwhen ready, Cheers 4 that
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cb john
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 11:58 AM |
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Use the ball joint separator...give me a PM, I'm not far from you..
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 12:59 PM |
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John
I have managed to get strut of stub axle without removing that link so all is good. I hope I have caught you before you leave! But thanks for the
offer
David
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cb john
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 01:05 PM |
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No worries..
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 01:20 PM |
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While I got you I am cleaning both insides with emery cloth to put back together. The rubber seal between stub axle and disc brake section is torn so
gonna replace that first. Any other things I should check and replace?
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STIDUB
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Over it.
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 02:25 PM |
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while its apart, replace all the rod ends & ball joints, cant remember how much but i picked it all up from vintage last time i was in syd, also a
bushing kit might be worth your while since your taking it apart a wee bit, may as well do it in one hit the way i see it, just my 2c, good to see
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
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Joel
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 06:42 PM |
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they're bloody tight eh?
if theres no slop in the ball joint just replace the seal
same deal with the tierod
i normally take the caliper and disc of the spindle, you would be amazed how much weight that takes away
b4 its all reassambled put a nice big glob of grease between the strut and spindle, it makes it so much easier to get apart next time
and once its back together be sure to set your wheel bearing play right,
ive killed one spindle cos they were to tight and another cos they were too loose
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 helbus
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 06:54 PM |
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I found replacing the control arm swaybar bushes with new nolethane ones, it got rid of the 'shimmy' in the steering. That is wobbles at high speed,
or after hitting a bump, or a combination of the two.
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 07:06 PM |
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Bloody tight is right! that was good advice re keeping them done up at the top though, and I never took the dics off cuz I could not work out how lol
or did I manage to remove that ball joint. Still it never stopped anything once progress had started, but I will pull apart to have a look and
certainly will take the advice offered by you all re: control arm swaybar bushes with new nolethane ones, rod ends & ball joints
This has me worried tho
"b4 its all reassambled put a nice big glob of grease between the strut and spindle, it makes it so much easier to get apart next time
and once its back together be sure to set your wheel bearing play right,
ive killed one spindle cos they were to tight and another cos they were too loose" God I hope I can work out right play!
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Joel
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 07:31 PM |
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its not hard to get them right
the tinyest bit of play was is ok but i did it up till there was none
next thing driving down the motor way at 110km/h my front left wheel locked solid
the outter wheel bearing broke apart and the inner race fused itself to the spindle
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kombivw
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 23rd, 2009 at 06:15 AM |
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http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?action=attachment&tid=75244&pid=702392&aid=73182
That torn rubber cover shown above, dont seem easy to remove? Is that the sort of job i need a puller for? And if it is, would the same puller take
the linkage ball joint out ? May need to take you up on yr offer John :=)
Can see now strut was bent BTW
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Joel
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| posted on March 23rd, 2009 at 09:01 PM |
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i replaced one of my ball joint boots about 12 months ago but cant remember for the life of me how i got it apart
i would have used either a tierod splitter fork or i have a little 4" 3 legged puller
both invaluable tools when working on vw front ends
but in a pinch u could leave the inner control arm camber bolt in, upper strut bolted in, remove the swaybar end from the control arm and slog it
downwards with a BFH
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