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 KoenvdW
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| posted on January 31st, 2012 at 11:02 PM |
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Thank, that helps me alot!
I guess the main power is coming from FB-28 or FB-18?
How did you make the radiator fan relay? Is it possible to send me the email address of this guy Al?
Thanks |
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Joel
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| posted on February 1st, 2012 at 10:28 AM |
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It should be somewhere on his website
http://amauto.com.au/about.html
I'll have to have a look at my rats nest but fairly sure from memory that Yellow is the constant live wire and red wires are ignition power.
Fan relay is pretty easy, if you can find the fan output from the ECU, that is the ground for the fan relay.
Other side of the relay coil just needs an ignition power source.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on February 1st, 2012 at 11:04 AM |
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It needs some flared guards 
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Joel
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| posted on February 1st, 2012 at 11:10 AM |
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You'd better be supplying Torana tail lights and a whale tail with them....
Should compliment my Carrera running boards and Jellybeans nicely.
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DylanTheDubber
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| posted on February 1st, 2012 at 06:17 PM |
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Joel,
Im after a pair of careara Side Skirts??
From Dylan
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Joel
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| posted on February 1st, 2012 at 09:27 PM |
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Was a joke.
If i had a pair to get rid of you woulda scored them ages ago.
Anyway seeing as this thread has bumped back from the dead there were a couple of other un exciting minor changes that went unoticed.
The new muffler actually went on back in late 2010 for pinkslip.
That old stainless steel canon was only ever temporary and forever breaking apart and being welded back together and was starting to look like big
lump of duckshit
Also being cheap chinese shit the fibreglass insulation was starting to disintigrate, made more noticable by the car alarms I was frequently setting
off, particularly in undercover carparks.
I really didn't want to lose the note it had, you don't have a subi engine without the subi sound, it's the next best thing to an old carbed V8
rumble, but I needed it quieter so I went and bought one of my favorite Mercury mufflers and a mandrel bend
It;s the exact same dimensions as the canon but being a quality built muffler means its that slightly quieter.
One of the main reasons the canon was always breaking was the two tail pipes were always bottoming out on stuff and transfering the shock through the
muffler.
Also my shitty bracketry was mainly to blame.
It all came down to simple mathematics, I had a bracket holding the weight in the wrong spot, the center of the weak sheetmetal at the wrong end.
So my new bracket is at the unsupported tail pipe end of the muffler and is welded to the end cap for extra strength instead of thin sheet metal.
Not gonna win any beauty pagents but it does the job
It's all hidden behind the valance.
Also instead of having the dummy mock tail pipe like the old one I decided to have a single one and finally fit that fibreglass valance.
It seems to scrape alot less than it used too,
I've got some sound test footage using my phone as it amplifies the sound alot more than my video camera so you can hear it better
so excuse the crappy footage and turn up the bass
http://www.youtube.com/user/BoostedVW?feature=mhee#p/u/6/GKnbvyKS0L0
The other change I made was a new coolant overflow bottle.
My existing one was just a washer bottle with the pump removed.
It worked amazingly well but was alittle small in capacity so on really hot summers days it almost filled right up .
so I needed one with a bit more capacity so I bought a universal one but it didn't suit the availble space I had.
As you can imagine there is a million choices out there when it comes to OEM bottles as nearly every model of car has a different configuration
bottle, but I had a few requirements which narrowed down my search.
I wanted one that had the inlet and outlet hoses coming in through the lid not the bottom of the bottle so it didn't need draining if it needed
removing from the car.
Also one that sat on a slide bracket rather than bolt in place for easy remove and replace.
Both these things means it only takes 10 secs to remove from the car as it doesnt need draining or unbolting, just remove the lid and slide off its
bracket.
Also needed one that fitted with my limited space so fairly tall but also narrow in width
So the perfect candidate was from a DB platform Mazda.
which means any 1991 onwards Mazda 121 Bubble or Metro or 1994 and later Ford Festiva.
I came home with one from a 2000 WF Festiva
Unfortunately half the Festiva comes with it as it was attached the Battery tray.
No matter, I just cut off the slide bracket piece I needed, attached it to a bracket and bolted to the engine.
Like a bought one....
Been working like a charm
Even these stinking hot summer days puttering around town with the A/C on which is when the engine is at it's hottest I have seen it get much over
the full mark.
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on February 2nd, 2012 at 06:07 AM |
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Hi Joel,
That coolant overflow bottle is the same as mine, I got it out of a Toyota Corrolla
Been working fine for over 7 years now.
Jak
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Joel
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| posted on February 2nd, 2012 at 06:11 PM |
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Ah yep that takes me back actually, would have been from an AE92 Corolla.
The ex's mother had a 93 Corolla that used to pump oil into the coolant so i had to flush the caramel thick shake out of the cooling system every few
weeks as it wasnt worth spending money on so i was well acquainted with the cooling system.
A tribute to Toyota, that little 4a-fe was still running after 70,000kms of doing that with no oil or filter change and nearly 350,000kms on the
clock.
I felt bad sending it the wreckers when it had literally been such an indestructable little car.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 9th, 2012 at 03:14 PM |
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I am looking at getting a 97-98 corolla this year for a work car coz I hear they are hard to kill and economical.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on February 11th, 2012 at 09:48 AM |
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As long as you find one that hasn't been too abused or neglected they are great cars.
As good as Euro engines are I still reckon Japs build the best motors, well excluding Mitsubishi
All of my Toyotas, Nissans and Mazdas as well as ones owned by friends and family have had bullet proof, well built engines.
I havent put enough KMs on my Subaru engines yet rave about them but the amount of trouble free high KM Subarus around speaks for itself.
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jmms
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| posted on March 5th, 2012 at 08:09 PM |
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WOW... this thread is flowing with info ....THANKS Joel and all thats been posting.
I've just started a EJ25 conversion on my Rewaco Trike
and will be asking ....allot  as this is my very first conversion
Some photos:
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Joel
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| posted on March 6th, 2012 at 08:51 AM |
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Glad it's helping out.
Actually, I would like to follow your progress.
My old man has one of the first batch of fully imported Rewaco trikes.
I'd love to drop an EJ in it but looking at radiator and ECU placement needs some serious planning and things like crash bar and fuel tank need
modding.
Dad likes the idea but he is also continually dropping hints about my 1776 VW engine and my old Supercharger setup.
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Shuffs
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| posted on March 6th, 2012 at 12:32 PM |
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Looks like your thread has been hijacked by a Trike conversion.A lot of motor to be putting in a trike,might have trouble keeping the front wheel on
the deck!
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Joel
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| posted on March 6th, 2012 at 01:12 PM |
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Broken the silence finally.
Well if Leon can keep 2.2 fuel injected twin turbo in a straight line (only just) I'm sure a 2.5 N/A subi will be ok.
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Shuffs
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| posted on March 6th, 2012 at 01:36 PM |
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 I think his wheelie bars are also a bit of help!
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Joel
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| posted on March 6th, 2012 at 01:49 PM |
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While this thread is back at the top and the topic of adaptor kits is going in other thread I'll add something of relevance.
I replaced Seagulls shitty adapter kit with one of John Shermans Volksconversions Kits.
I got stung by not obeying the old Buy once, Cry once rule.
Seagulls kit has held it together for over 30,000kms now but I've had several issues with it from day one.
The thing with all rear mounted VW engines is it doesn't matter if its a 1940s 1100 or an early 90s Caravelle Wasserboxer, they all have an identical
locating spigot that centralises the engine to the gearbox.
Seagulls adaptor and alot of other cheap ones made are just machined flat and don't have that locating spigot
It relies on the 4 bolts locating the engine and they can get it close but not spot on the money.
What this does is pulls the gearbox input shaft off center so first thing that goes is the oil seal, then eventually the bearing will start to flog
out too.
It also plays with the starter motor and clutch throw out bearing alignment not to mention vibrations and such.
It's only has to be a bee's dick out to start causing problems.
I spent even more $$ getting this spigot machined onto the adaptor plate to correct all these issues
So in the end it ended up costing more than one of Shermans adaptor kits which are made to far better quality.
One other thing about it was Seagulls kit doenst have a new flywheel, its actually an old VW flywheel with the center machined out and a new hub
welded in and machined for a Subaru crank.
John machines his flywheels up from scratch.
Although I and a few engineers that have checked over it agree that part has been done to an acceptable standard.
And finally becuase my new EJ25 is a 2005 its one of the newer generation "8 bolt mounting" blocks instead of the old 4 and John's is made to suit
these motors
So I've bought one of his and Seagulls will be used for another project
You can see the 2 extra mounting bolts and also the special countersunk bolts in the bottom 2 bolts that John uses.
That stops the interference with the gearbox cradle and rubbers that happens in bugs when normal bolts are used.
The only one regret I have with John's kit is something Brad warned me about.
John uses all old Impreial UNC bolts on his side of things.
His reasoning is if you break a bolt out woop woop somewhere the local bogan Wolf creek garage can probably find something down the back of the
workshop to help you out.
Brad used to buy the adaptor plates untapped so they could be tapped for metric threads.
Where this is good is you can use the standard VW mounting studs screwed to the adaptor plate like I did with Seagulls.
John gives you bolts to screw the adaptor to the gearbox which aren;t availble as studs.
And let me say for the record trying to line up and engine with a VW gearbox with no studs to guide you FUCKING SUCKS!!!
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 06:05 AM |
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The only thing I changed on Johns kit was the bolts as well, instead I went to an engineering shop & bought some chromoly threaded rod & made
my own bolts as the ones supplied just looked cheap & fragile.
Jak
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 07:25 AM |
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Hi
I bought my 1st kit from Unicap, it had the ridge machined in to it but used a modified VW flywheel. Unicap has been a VW Nationals sponsor for
years.
Steve
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kombibob
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 07:40 AM |
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Yep I had the same problems with the cheaper adapter plate flogging out input shaft seals, replaced it with a Sherman and have been trouble free
since.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 09:14 AM |
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I got JVL old adaptor and the thing was out buy about 5mm and the starter never meshed in proper , once you added about two auto washer behind the
flywheel the starter would work fine 
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BlueV2
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 09:21 AM |
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You can buy them from Sharpbuilt with the ridge machined in and with metric bolts and studs.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Joel
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 10:43 AM |
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Another classy repair Ian 
If I was pulling the engine on a regular basis I'd do something about it.
Jak, was the threaded rod hard to get?
tried the bolt bahn and they can get threaded rod in mild steel but not high tensile so I left it.
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 03:11 PM |
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I don't know if it's hard to find as I got it at my local Engineering nut & bolt store first go. it's very very tough stuff, i cut them to
length by hand, 1 blade equaled 1 cut ! took forever too.
Jak
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 03:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
I got JVL old adaptor and the thing was out buy about 5mm and the starter never meshed in proper , once you added about two auto washer behind the
flywheel the starter would work fine
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maybe that explain's why JVL's car never ran? the starter motor couldn't work properly
Aaaah, the simplest things.
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JVLRacing
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 05:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jak Rizzo
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
I got JVL old adaptor and the thing was out buy about 5mm and the starter never meshed in proper , once you added about two auto washer behind the
flywheel the starter would work fine
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maybe that explain's why JVL's car never ran? the starter motor couldn't work properly
Aaaah, the simplest things.
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ouch! Jako the expert.....
Hey Ian wat starter are u using?
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Joel
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| posted on March 7th, 2012 at 05:45 PM |
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Owww says my inbox.
Cheers Jak, might chase that up next time theres a reason to pull out.
Gearbox failure will be my guess.
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on March 8th, 2012 at 07:45 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by JVLRacing
ouch! Jako the expert.....
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Yes, in comparison to you I'm a Nobel Prize Winner
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JVLRacing
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| posted on March 8th, 2012 at 07:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jak Rizzo
| Quote: | Originally
posted by JVLRacing
ouch! Jako the expert.....
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Yes, in comparison to you I'm a Nobel Prize Winner
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Dont be mad jako
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iwantbus
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| posted on March 11th, 2012 at 12:17 PM |
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I have been reading this thread for awhile now and I have learned a lot, just wanted to say thanks. |
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iwantbus
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| posted on March 11th, 2012 at 12:18 PM |
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Oh and by the way my project is my 74 Bay window bus that now has an EJ25 DOHC motor in it now.
No where near complete and this is the reason I am reading here....wiring and cooling are killing me! |
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