| [ Total Views: 1625 | Total Replies: 25 | Thread Id: 77894 ] |
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 isky
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| posted on July 19th, 2009 at 10:47 AM |
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changing karmann chassis...
Hiya!
Im probably just thinking out loud here but ive been thinking about this for sometime now.
My 1960 parts karmann has a crap body but beautiful chassis and my 1961 karmann has a better body but very ordinary chassis
How hard is it to swap the body's over? Ive seen how to take body of a rolling pan on the "Bug me vids" and it doesnt look all that hard. Am i
just kidding myself? How likely is it that the bolts wont line up?
Thanks...
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 vw54
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| posted on July 19th, 2009 at 04:16 PM |
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remove the engine b4 you remove the body its much easier
undo the 7 or 8 bolts down each side
undo the 6 under the rear seat
undo the 4 from the fire wall
remove fuel tank and 2 bolts 2 front end
get 4 of yr mates to help iwth the lift Ghias are heavy
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isky
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| posted on July 19th, 2009 at 04:39 PM |
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oh ok i wasn't sure about removing the engine...so how realistic is it that the bolts and holes will match up once transferred?
thanks
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 06:58 AM |
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.
They will match up as long as no-one has botched something up, its still a fairly big job and the chances of bolts breaking in the heater chanels is
always there as well as opening up a can of worms rust wise if there is botched up heaterchanels which is common on karmann ghias
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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isky
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 11:34 AM |
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These are pics of my red Ghia's chassis.....im thinking of putting this chassis on my Chocolate ghia...is it worth the effort? it has internal fiber
glass pans also. The only part that may need a patch is behind the passenger seat.
Pics of my Chocolate Ghia's chassis coming....
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isky
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 11:43 AM |
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the following are pics of my Chocolate Ghia...this ghia also has fiber glass internal pans.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 03:35 PM |
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mate you have a LOT OF WORK to do to fix those
Pay your debts, CxxT
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isky
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 03:52 PM |
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i wasn't planing on fixing them...just swap the rolling pans. Was curious if people thought it was worth doing and if people think the red pans were
much better than the chocolate pans?
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vw54
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 05:31 PM |
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the chocolate ghia pan is stuff nuthing about 4 days works carnt fix though
yes i would swap the pans before u start have yr feet drag on the ground
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isky
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 06:02 PM |
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thanks vw54...not afraid of a little work I was hoping one day to
separate a body from a pan in a resto. Just didn't think id be doing it to two cars at the same time.
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Newt
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 11:20 PM |
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Pan halves can be bought in Australia (and also imported for less than you might think).
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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helbus
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| posted on July 20th, 2009 at 11:35 PM |
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I primarily do restorations on vehicles as a trade. My own opinion, and if I was doing it for myself. I would get the better chassis/ pan, get it
fully garnet (sand) blasted, then a coat of etch primer within hours of picking it up. Then do any rust repairs to the now clean chassis and etch
prime those areas also. Then you have a solid base to start working out what you want to do.
I would then concentrate on the underside of the body where it bolts to the chassis and get all areas that are suspect replaced with new metal. Then
sit the body on the chassis. Then do all other rust and major body work over time on the body. Then once you have your solid chassis that is etch
primed, and a solid body that is dirty, pull the two apart again, fully seal the chassis and paint it with whatever process you want to follow. Epoxy
prime and two pack, POR 15 etc.
Then get the body in a clean state by media blasting. You may find some more small rust repairs to do and some more panel beating, but again get it
etch primed within hours. Do the extra repairs, etch prime them, then paint the underside of the body with two pack etc. Then get the body and pan
sealed and bolted together. Now you have a solid all metal clean straight Karmann to get painted.
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Newt
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 02:12 AM |
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You'd paint the body after its back on the pan?
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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isky
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 02:35 AM |
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Thanks Helbus that's great
I was definitely thinking of cleaning up the chassis and coating it in something like Por 15. But this isnt going to be a show quality custom car.
Ive decided to rat it and just concentrate on fixing the cut wheel arches. If im going to be better off swapping the chassis i think id like to throw
in a bit of protection on the under part of the body as well as the complete rolling pan. Just maybe not go the full blasting etc.... What is etch
primer? Is that just the normal grey coloured primer i see people spraying raw panels with?
Id definitely do it by your instructions if i were going for that squeaky clean show quality look...or even major restoration job. Something i plan to
do in the future on another project once i gain more experience.
Im not even sure if im going to take this car back to metal and paint anew.
I love this look...I know its not every ones cup of tea but i love it! Apart from the wheel arches it already reminds me of my car lol.
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isky
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 02:45 AM |
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Helbus ive been meaning to ask you ever since you replied to my other thread after seeing John Kelly's youtube link on 'forming custom
flares'....Where can i view some of your work? Do you have a blog, site etc? Im really interested in seeing your work mate...sounds amazing.
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 06:31 AM |
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Love those 2 rat ghias up there and thats what i call "SLAMMED", ha ha,
i noticed you said both ghia pans already have fibreglass on the inside???, If a pan was any good they should not have fibregass on them so you might
want to have a good poke under it with a screwdriver before you do the swap, personally if it was me i would just get 2 new pan halves and weld them
in, then you also dont have 2 cars pulled to pieces, makes it harder to sell the other 1 later on too.
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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isky
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 09:19 AM |
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Rexy you've hit the nail on the head there....That's why i mentioned the fiber glass thing. I also thought "why put fiber glass in if the pans are
solid?" Even though the reds look quite good im still not convinced....To Rexy or anyone who's ever in Brisbane's northern suburbs area and knows
what to look for...there's a free curry in it for ya to come check it out!
Hey if you like that lowlight up there check out it's guts!!
PPPHHHOOOAAARRR!!!!!!!
and yes.....i'm so slammin this thing...
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 09:34 AM |
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.
I can see by the pics the red pan will definitely have some holes in it, everywhere you see the bits of orange rust coming through you will be able to
poke a screwdriver through
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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isky
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 10:03 AM |
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I know....anyone know where to get the best priced pans around Brissie?
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 10:36 AM |
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dont know about brissy, you can try micks, classic in sydney or the guy in wa should have them
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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VWCOOL
23 Windows of Awesome
Posts: 5158
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Registered: June 19th, 2003
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Location: In the shed... Lake Macquarie NSW
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 11:04 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by isky
i wasn't planing on fixing them...just swap the rolling pans. Was curious if people thought it was worth doing and if people think the red pans were
much better than the chocolate pans?
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mate they both look rooted to me... obvious rust holes in both (sure, one more so than the other - but rust is rust), so why bother swapping?
Pay your debts, CxxT
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isky
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 11:07 AM |
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yep thanks VWCOOL...ive come to that conclusion as well. Think ill try to fix the Wheel arches first, then if that works out ill invest the dollars
in getting new pans.
thank Rexy...
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VWCOOL
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 12:07 PM |
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...might want to take a look at all the rust... ie whether it is worth doing the overall project...
Pay your debts, CxxT
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isky
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 01:43 PM |
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yep that's the only bad rust...the rest of the bod is solid (thank God)...definitely worth rattin out
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 10:14 PM |
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Click on this link
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=62221&page=1
| Quote: | Originally
posted by isky
Helbus ive been meaning to ask you ever since you replied to my other thread after seeing John Kelly's youtube link on 'forming custom
flares'....Where can i view some of your work? Do you have a blog, site etc? Im really interested in seeing your work mate...sounds amazing.
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isky
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on July 21st, 2009 at 10:27 PM |
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speechless....i have no speech...totally and utterly incredible. Well done bud
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