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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on March 17th, 2012 at 05:05 PM |
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Now what to do about the cables I hear you ask?
Well I couldn't be F*&#ed pulling the rear drums off again, plus these ones are brand new! So I decided to repair them.
First of all get some two M6 nuts and a bolt of the correct length. Combine with weld until you have a fancy new broken cable extender!
Add a few drops of high strength Loctite for taste and screw them down tight on the remaining threads on the cable. No need to even remove the cables
from the car!
Reinstall handles and you should end up with this.
Adjust the handbrake and everything works as it should. The new plates where the cables bolt on allow the cable to pivot through the handles travel.
No more issues!
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on March 17th, 2012 at 05:40 PM |
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Very nice indeed Smiley!
Glad they're not snapping now, I'm sure that would have given anyone a fright, no more handbrake! :P
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on March 17th, 2012 at 05:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Very nice indeed Smiley!
Glad they're not snapping now, I'm sure that would have given anyone a fright, no more handbrake! :P
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It wasn't too bad. I was flexed halfway up a pile of gravel though. I had issues backing down cause I could no longer lock the spinning back wheel
that had no traction.
But revs and working the steering back and forward got her free 
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on March 17th, 2012 at 05:49 PM |
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Ahaha glad it wasn't more disastrous!
I hope other people take notice of this, might even be worth making a thread solely about this and getting a mod to sticky it or something!
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on March 18th, 2012 at 11:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
I hope other people take notice of this, might even be worth making a thread solely about this and getting a mod to sticky it or something!
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I had considered making a thread similar to what Joel has done with his stickies. I'm not sure that I'm worth listening to though 
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Arpspasm
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| posted on March 19th, 2012 at 10:09 PM |
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For sure do it! you have saved myself and a lot of other people from a lot of fak around time figuring out what you already have 
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on March 19th, 2012 at 10:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Arpspasm
For sure do it! you have saved myself and a lot of other people from a lot of fak around time figuring out what you already have
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I might give it a go.
What do people want to see tech articles about though?
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Arpspasm
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| posted on March 23rd, 2012 at 11:56 PM |
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Well You have at least a dozen articles just about ready to go in this build thread alone. How about an article on "how to make my wife stop hating
on my bug"
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Joel
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| posted on March 24th, 2012 at 09:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
I had considered making a thread similar to what Joel has done with his stickies. I'm not sure that I'm worth listening to though
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Neither am I most of the time but you have a keen attention to detail and you don't half arse things, that's what makes how-tos helpful.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on March 24th, 2012 at 06:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Arpspasm
Well You have at least a dozen articles just about ready to go in this build thread alone. How about an article on "how to make my wife stop hating
on my bug"
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That's impossible!!!
I think
- Kombi Box install
- Cutting brakes
- IRS Conversion
Any other suggestions?
I also hope to have
- Rack and Pinion conversion
- Disc brake conversion
- Fitting CB spindles, and;
- Getting more travel out of your Link pin Front end
Very soon 
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
I had considered making a thread similar to what Joel has done with his stickies. I'm not sure that I'm worth listening to though
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Neither am I most of the time but you have a keen attention to detail and you don't half arse things, that's what makes how-tos helpful.
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hahahaha. I half arse some things! The key is not to post them up
Thanks for your praise. Might have to write some threads and work out how to do the linking thing.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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beetleboyjeff
A.k.a.: Jeff Walsh
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| posted on March 24th, 2012 at 08:32 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Arpspasm
How about an article on "how to make my wife stop hating on my bug"
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That would be brilliant if you could do one of these. I for one sure could use it. :-)
Of course, with that sort of knowledge, you could rule the world I reckon.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 12:19 AM |
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Well I went offroading a few week back. And managed to get stuck in a big mud puddle. I found out afterwards that it was in fact my clutch slipping
that was making me unable to drive out of the hole. And the reason that mud got in and jammed my pressure plate is because I had a hole in the engine
block mounting flange. In the top right hand side the factory hole for the diagnostic plug was letting all sorts of unsavory types into my bellhousing
(I kept wondering where all that sand was getting in)
So all I did was fill the hole up with sikaflex and am hoping that this stops the issue from occurring again.
I haven't drive the car for a week or so. I encountered a lost of power and haven't had a chance to look at the problem properly yet. It's either
lack of fuel or a large vacuum leak. I'm leaning towards vacuum leak because I pulled the tops off the carbies and there was plenty of fuel in the
float bowls. I've also cleaned all the jets and passages and changed the fuel filter.
I disassembled my fuel pressure regulator because the type I have tend to jet jammed on the low pressure setting when they fill up with sand and
dirt.
I'm going to have a bit more a play tomorrow and check all the gaskets and manifold crossover hose. The carbies most certainly need syncing and
tuning again cause I've had them off a few times.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 12:28 AM |
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Something else I noticed recently while under the car is that I've had something rather large come into contact with the underside of the engine,
bending the tinware and damage the LHS pushrod tubes.
I had to do a valve set on the engine today anyway so I decided to fit some new sprung pushrod tubes that I've had sitting around for a while. I only
put the in the LHS because the right is perfect and leak free so I decided to let sleeping dogs lie.
Bent tinware.
Damaged pushrod tubes.
You can see here where two of the pushrods have been rubbing slightly on the dints in the tubes.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 12:32 AM |
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The basic method of removing the old tubes is to bent them in the middle and just rip them out.
And here are all the sprung tubes installed. If you are fitting these make sure that you fit them with the larger diameter tube to the engine case
side. The pushrod tubes serve as an oil drain for the rocker cover area on your head. So you want the oil to drain into the smaller tube which then
runs out inside the larger tube. I'm told if you get it wrong they leak a lot from the joint.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 01:04 AM |
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Lately I've been getting pissed off with my aircleaners. They work really well but I seem to be cleaning them every weekend I go anywhere near dirt
or sand. So I've decided to come up with something better, once again using parts off the nearest modern car that I can get my hands on. As is the
case with my brakes, the VN Holden Commodore is giving up some parts again.
I'm working on a way off holding these down and sealing them up. I think I have it all nutted out, just need to get some welding done at work.
They fit over the Kadron perfectly.
Intake tube will fit here and be joined to the top of the carby with a small length of silicon hose. I'm having a few clearance issues with this
piece too. I'm going to remove the factory decklid hinge mounts and spring mount so I can push this tube up and forward as much as possible.
And the airbox will sit somewhere just here, wish me luck.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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tar76
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 07:18 AM |
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Mate i've got some alloy covers that will fit over your air cleaners and kads. they just need tops (kad fitler tops fit). You pay postage and there
yours?
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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nils
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 08:18 AM |
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Hey smiley, instead of messing around with modifing (look who's talk right?) The commie airbox, spend a few dollars on a donaldson filter and never
have to stress again?
Quit calling rust patina
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 10:53 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tar76
Mate i've got some alloy covers that will fit over your air cleaners and kads. they just need tops (kad fitler tops fit). You pay postage and there
yours?
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I did see that in the for sale section. Do they fit straight over the aircleaners like I have? Or do I have to buy a different aircleaner to fit onto
the tube? How large is the diameter of that inlet tube? You have PM.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Hey smiley, instead of messing around with modifing (look who's talk right?) The commie airbox, spend a few dollars on a donaldson filter and never
have to stress again?
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The only issue with that is I don't have anywhere to put the Donaldson's. I would have to run two of them and I don't like the look of putting them
on the guards cause it decreases viability and puts a lot of weight on the guards to flex and crack them.
But the main reason I don't want to run a Donaldson is because they are a very restrictive type of filter and rob your engine power. Don't get me
wrong, I know that they filter incredibly well. I work in the mining industy and everything runs a Donaldson style (centrifugal separator followed by
a paper element or two) and they clatter around in the dust all day. But these diesel engine run low revs in a small range so the air quantity
required for the engine doesn't change dramatically. Whereas the engine in my car revs from crawling at idle to 5000+
I did consider the Donaldson but they are not for me.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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tar76
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| posted on April 7th, 2012 at 11:43 AM |
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Yeah man just sit the alloy housing on top of your aircleaner bottom plate drop the air cleaner inside put the chrome top on and tighten down nut and
your done! then you can run some cold air induction pipe from the side outlets or whatever you think will be best. Found out they came off a baja bug.
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on April 29th, 2012 at 11:24 PM |
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7mm ring gaps.
These will be ok to reuse right??
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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 matberry
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| posted on April 29th, 2012 at 11:29 PM |
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Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on April 30th, 2012 at 10:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
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They'll be fine! I'm sure they'll go another 25000km before I need new ones.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 2nd, 2012 at 09:14 PM |
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Well as you can tell from the above picture I ran into some troubles with my engine.
Turns out it's been dusted 
So we pulled it down and fitted new pistons and barrels a few weekends ago. Now it's sitting at home all back together waiting to go back in the
car.
Stripped down to a short block.
Here is one of the new barrels. Notice it has a lovely cross hatch. Shiny mirror bore like above is not good at all.
And here's a picture of it all back together again.
Sorry I didn't take more pictures. We started at around 10 in the morning and had everything cleaned and back together by 2:30 in the afternoon and
running on a milk crate
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 10:29 PM |
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Well I've been doing some upgrades over the last week or so. Still haven't got around to fitting the engine since it's been rebuilt.
I've been focusing on making an airbox and new inlet system for the engine. Most of the reason why the old bores got dusted was the location of the
air filters on top of the carbies. They were copping way to much dust and sand coming out of the wheel wells and because I have minimal engine bay
sheet metal left it's all getting thrown straight at the filters!!
This will certainly not do, so I've decided on a centre mounted single airbox with twin outlets going to the carbies.
Here's what I started with. It's an airbox from a VN Commodore. Luckily I have a few of them
And here's a second box that I cut the inlet out of so that I can weld it into the other box.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 10:38 PM |
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After a lot of measuring and heaps of trimming we arrive at this stage.
And then it's ready to be tacked in place and then welded.
This is the first time I've ever had a go at plastic welding. And I must say it's not as hard as I'd thought it would be. You must obey most of the
same principles as normal welding, get good penetration, make sure the parent material melts into the weld puddle, don't get it too hot, etc etc.
Though it takes a fair be longer to 'run a bead' than normal welding.
It wasn't too long before I had something looking like this and you can see it starting to come together. I've basically tried to mirror the first
inlet on the other side of the airbox. It's made a little different cause the top of the box slopes away towards the left of the picture.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 10:47 PM |
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I also welded to inside to make doubly sure that it's sealed and airtight.
Here it is with the second outlet bolted in place.
I had to grind a tiny bit of the trumpet on the backing plate so it cleared to sloping top. Aside from that it all fits well.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 10:51 PM |
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Then it was time to fill the last hole.
Made a piece up.
And all welded up.
Here is the inside with the outlet bolted in place again
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 10:59 PM |
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I've also discovered that I need to turn the top half of the airbox 180° from how it goes at the factory.
This is roughly where the airbox it going to sit on the engine.
And it turns out if the base is the other way around there is a neat little scollop here that fits perfectly around the post on the alternator. Like
it was made to go there!!
The issue I have is that none of the clips that hold the lid down line up when it's turned 180° out. So the issue is how to hold the lid down?
Can anyone suggest anyway that can be used to fasten the lid down tight like the factory?
I thought about welding the tabs on in the right spots but I'm not sure if it'll be neat enough and work well enough. Other thing I could do it cut
the top completely off the bottom half of the airbox and reweld it the other way round.
If anyone has any ideas please post them up straight away cause I want to get this all done over the weekend.
Here is a picture of the factory clips.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 11:19 PM |
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Might be a stupid idea, but bore a hole straight through the middle of the entire airbox assembly including the element filter.
1. With the top of the air cleaner housing and the filter element removed, fit a long threaded rod into the base of the air cleaner housing. Then
using large washers and two nuts, clamp the threaded rod to the base of the bottom half of the air box.
2. Fit the filter element over the threaded rod into the base of the air cleaner, quick lick of silicone around the shaft hole in the element.
3. Fit top of air cleaner housing over the threade rod followed by large washer and a wingnut for easily removal.
Similar to the circular style paper element filters.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Smiley
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 11:32 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Might be a stupid idea, but bore a hole straight through the middle of the entire airbox assembly including the element filter.
1. With the top of the air cleaner housing and the filter element removed, fit a long threaded rod into the base of the air cleaner housing. Then
using large washers and two nuts, clamp the threaded rod to the base of the bottom half of the air box.
2. Fit the filter element over the threaded rod into the base of the air cleaner, quick lick of silicone around the shaft hole in the element.
3. Fit top of air cleaner housing over the threade rod followed by large washer and a wingnut for easily removal.
Similar to the circular style paper element filters.
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That's going to cause an issue cause I want to me able to remove the element and clean and reoil it frequently.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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