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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 22nd, 2012 at 12:50 AM |
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Well I hooked in this evening and made a start on the rear end. Would like to get it all sorted and out of the way by the weekend.
First thing I finished prepping the other 2 CVs. So they are all buffed and finished now.
Now when you are reassembling your CVs it's important to put them back together around the correct way. Both the outer ring and inner star have an
alternating pattern of narrow and wide sections. When you reassemble your CVs you want to make sure that you line the wide section on the outer ring
with a narrow section on the inner star, or vice versa. It is possible to put them together with the wide section next to the wide section on the
other part. However, the CV will be very tight and have little or no angular movement at all. I actually found that one of the ones I pulled out of
the box brand new was assembled the incorrect way round. Lucky I was pulling them down the prep them!
Correctly assembled CV.
After the CVs were done I went and grabbed a spare set of single plate IRS springplates. I'm cutting these up to use as a measuring tool to find the
maximum angle to run the CVs to.
I marked them out with a 10mm notch. I thought this would be way more than I would be able to run but turns out it was close to perfect.
Then chop them out with the grinder.
It wasn't long before I had the axle nuts cracked, wheels off and started pulling the old stub axles, axles and CVs out.
Out with the old!
And here are a few comparison shots between the standard Type 1 Beetle stub axle and a Type 181 Thing stub axle. They are identical on the axle shaft,
spline and thread. But the Thing has a larger flange which will accommodate a Kombi, Porsche 944 or Type 4 CV.
Fitted up to the car with new seals and bearings.
I'm also swapping to Baywindow Kombi gas front shocks for the rear of the car. They are a little beefier than my current shocks and should help keep
the rear end from bouncing around as much as it has been lately.
Undo your diagonal arm and jack it up as high as you can. You will have to remove the suspension snubber in order to get the hight to clear the spring
plate.
Loosen the spring plate cover and pop it down off the stop. It didn't even amputate my arm or start any world wars on it's way down.
Once it's popped off you can remove the cover and let it hang at full droop. I marked the plate to the housing here so I can put it back in the same
spot later for adjustment.
I also removed the spring plate and torsion bar as one piece and didn't separate them for the same reason.
It was also at this point that I discovered my spring plate bushes are a little worn and I would prefer to replace them before putting the suspension
back together. Will see if I can get some after work tomorrow.
Now assemble it back together with the tooling spring plate and no torsion bar fitted.
It turns out that a 10mm notch on the spring plate is just perfect to use the full travel of the Kombi front shock. It doesn't bottom or top out
through the full travel. I worked it out to be 9 inches (nearly 230mm) of wheel travel. Which is up from the 7 inches (178mm) you get from a
completely stock setup which is what I was running. It may not sound like much but that's a 28.5% increase in wheel travel! I very happy with
that.
From this.....
...to this.
Very nice!! Now that we have worked out the max travel of the shock is it going to be too much for the CVs and will they bind?
First step is the dry assemble your axle so you can fit it to the car. You can see in the second picture the washer and bolt setup that I have fitted
to hold the CVs onto the axle.
Then you want to fit it up to the car. On the inbound side I had to stack the bolts out with a few washers. Because I didn't have the CV boot or
torque washers fitted the bolts screwed through and into the side of the gearbox preventing the axle from turning.
Here it is dead level. I am happy to report that there is still around half and inch of sideplay in the axle. It turns freely without binding onto the
inside of the gearbox or stubaxle flanges.
And here is the axle at full droop. Spins freely and no binding whatsoever!!! With a 10mm notch in the springplate, got to be happy with that  I have not measured the angle on the axle but I will do so tomorrow and
let you know.
So I'm planning on notching my double springplates 10mm and resetting my rear suspension a few inches higher.
I couldn't resist throwing a wheel on and taking a few pictures.
Hoping to have another big evening on her tomorrow. But right now I'm off to bed!!!
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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1916baja
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| posted on August 22nd, 2012 at 07:15 PM |
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Nice work mate! So detailed in the explanation.... Handy! How do you work on your car when its that dirty? That would drive me nuts!
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 22nd, 2012 at 09:42 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1916baja
Nice work mate! So detailed in the explanation.... Handy! How do you work on your car when its that dirty? That would drive me nuts!
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Yeah. She's booked in for a very thorough wash as soon as the wheel are back on and she can move into the yard again.
And then she's booked in for offroading this weekend to test out the new suspension setup!!!
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 22nd, 2012 at 10:06 PM |
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I got a tiny bit more done on the car this afternoon.
I notched out my LHS double springplate so now it's ready to back up to the car. I ended up going with 11mm cause there was a tiny bit more travel to
coax out of the shocks.
Then I decided to see how far the CVs can travel before they bind.
So I notched the other springplate out to 20mm and fitted it back to the car.
It's actually not sitting down on the stop because the diagonal arm has swung down so much it is resting on my barwork. So there is a 2mm gap between
the stop and the plate. So it's sitting like I notched the plates 18mm.
I borrowed this tool off a VW friend. It's a factory tool for measuring and adjusting the angle of your springplates. In this case I used it to
measure the angle of my axle.
So then I bolted the axle in place. And, amazingly, the CVs weren't binding at all. Everything still spun smoothly with no tightness or clicking. I
used the tooling to measure the angle of the axle and it's sitting at 24°!!! Pretty damn stoked with that! Who needs Porsche CVs? I obviously won't
be running them like this because my shocks can't travel this far. I'll be sticking with the 11mm nitch for the moment and chase more down the
track.
Hoping to have another big afternoon and night on her tomorrow. More then!
Smiley
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nils
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 05:55 AM |
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Just make sure you radius and edge all the notchs in your spring plates, otherwise you are creating places for cracks to start.
Quit calling rust patina
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baghall
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 10:02 PM |
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Some more awesome work smiley, but looks like you oight damage your guards if your wheels bounce that high.
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 10:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by baghall
Some more awesome work smiley, but looks like you oight damage your guards if your wheels bounce that high.
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The wheels don't contact the guards at all, and that's with the snubber removed. They rub the tiniest bit on the inner guard, you can just hear it
when you go over big bumps fast 
The suspension cycles very well, I'm working on it right now. Want to get it all back together so I can try it out ASAP!!!
Smiley
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Anthiron
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 10:31 PM |
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Time for a body lift smiley. Nice work!
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 10:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Anthiron
Time for a body lift smiley. Nice work!
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Tell me about it!! I need one so I can fit 33s without them rubbing.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 01:46 PM |
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Where were we?
I put in a big night last night getting the car all finished. I worked through the night and got it all done at 4:45 this morning! Ready just in time
to drive to work
After a lot of screwing around getting covered in graphite powder I finally had everything lubed and ready to go back together. After adjusting my
springplate angle you can see the difference to what I was running here.
In order to compress the spring up I find it easy to bolt a spare springplate on to put the jack under.
But of course you are trying to lift the whole car off the ground so it is necessary to chain the front axle of the jack to the car. So then you are
compressing the spring not lifting the car. You want to make sure the chain is attached somewhere strong, there is a lot of tension here, looped over
the top shock mount is a great place.
It wasn't long before we had this...
...and then this.
And onto the other side. You can see here the springplate bushes liberally covered with graphite powder. Not be shy, the more you can get in there the
better. I use graphite powder because it is a dry lubricant and won't attract dirt. Whereas a wet lube like rubber grease will. You want to keep as
much dirt out of the moving parts of you car as possible, so it's graphite powder for me!
Here is the final angle that I am running at the moment. A neat 20°, quite impressed with that.
Everything back together and wheel back on. Here's a shot of both wheels at full droop.
And here's a few shots of how the car sits now. I think I might have gone a touch high with the ride height setting. Time will tell and we will see
it it settles down a bit. If it doesn't I might wind her down about and inch. We'll play it by ear and see how things go.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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OZ Towdster
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 05:48 PM |
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I think it might be time for some 3 x 3 arms there sunshine as those rear wheels look so far foward in the wheel arches .
As for suspension height settings , how much droop have you got from ride height compared to your overall suspension travel , as the ideal setting
would be to have 2/3s up travel from ride height and , a 1/3 down travel
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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bajachris88
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 05:58 PM |
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Good job Daniel 
Amazing effort as always. Alyce the monster truck prevails again. I bet those 4wd co-workers shut up now lol. Thanks for going into detail too, a good
illustrated tech sheet and confidence booster (for the audience).
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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OZ Towdster
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 06:29 PM |
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Oh , and with your baja in the shed of a night lately in bits , i bet mums on your case about her ss out in the weather hehehehehe
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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mackaymanx
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 06:43 PM |
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I like this Smiley, good bit of thinking outside the box.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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grinderman
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 06:49 PM |
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I'm sorry but the next step is obvious .......33's.....33's........33's.........c'mon everybody start the chant !!! LOL.
In all seriousness (I cant believe I'm saying this) maybe drop it down a spline on the back and fit some 32inch rears to even it out nicely, which
would give you more droop which equals more traction. Have a look at 235/85r16's they measure 32inch high and 8.5inch wide (slightly narrower tyres will improve your economy as
well).
Alyce just gets better week.....
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Anthiron
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 07:13 PM |
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Very Nice! i admire your dedication. baja > Sleep
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 07:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by OZ Towdster
I think it might be time for some 3 x 3 arms there sunshine as those rear wheels look so far foward in the wheel arches .
As for suspension height settings , how much droop have you got from ride height compared to your overall suspension travel , as the ideal setting
would be to have 2/3s up travel from ride height and , a 1/3 down travel
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You read my mind Andrew. I really like those 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 arms that Avery's do. After seeing yours I must have a set! As for the travel. I think
it's lacking in the droop at the moment, the plan is 5-Rocks trip tomorrow to see if I can 'settle' the suspension some more. If not I will
probably drop it an inch, the car is sitting slightly higher at the back so this will bring it back level anyway.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Good job Daniel
Amazing effort as always. Alyce the monster truck prevails again. I bet those 4wd co-workers shut up now lol. Thanks for going into detail too, a good
illustrated tech sheet and confidence booster (for the audience).
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Thanks for the kind words Chris. I wrote it like this so people like you can copy it and lift their Baja's up!! So get to it!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by OZ Towdster
Oh , and with your baja in the shed of a night lately in bits , i bet mums on your case about her ss out in the weather hehehehehe
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Mum and dad are currently on holiday in Darwin. So they don't have to know about this! I'm going to give the SS a wash anyway, and Alyce and the
Daewoo and the ute. All the cars are dirty!!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by mackaymanx
I like this Smiley, good bit of thinking outside the box.
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I thought everyone used the chain over the shock mount?
Or do you mean bolting the springplate to the springplate? I've done that in the past and it worked well so I did it again.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by grinderman
I'm sorry but the next step is obvious .......33's.....33's........33's.........c'mon everybody start the chant !!! LOL.
In all seriousness (I cant believe I'm saying this) maybe drop it down a spline on the back and fit some 32inch rears to even it out nicely, which
would give you more droop which equals more traction. Have a look at 235/85r16's they measure 32inch high and 8.5inch wide (slightly narrower tyres will improve your economy as
well).
Alyce just gets better week.....
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Problem is I can't run bigger than the 31s cause I have long torsion bars in her. And I'm not changing to swingaxle plates for reasons I have yet to
tell everyone. But this is where the longer rear trailing arms come in that Towdster mentioned. These move the wheels back so they will clear the long
bars and I can run up to a 35-36 inch tall tyre.
There are two other problems with 33s, they will kill my gearing a little, and they are going to rub badly on the bodywork on full compression. But
don't you worry, I have big plans for all this sort of stuff and I'll keep you all posted on here.
And I do like the 235/85/16s, I want to eventually run them as my fronts and run something around the 33-34 as my rears.
I'll get some pictures offroading tomorrow!
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 07:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Anthiron
Very Nice! i admire your dedication. baja > Sleep
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Way greater!!!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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 matberry
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| posted on August 24th, 2012 at 11:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
And I do like the 235/85/16s, I want to eventually run them as my fronts and run something around the 33-34 as my rears.
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^^^ Now there's something serious.......
drop the rear an inch or 2 and a half for now .... good work
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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Bone
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 08:31 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
And I do like the 235/85/16s, I want to eventually run them as my fronts and run something around the 33-34 as my rears.
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^^^ Now there's something serious.......
drop the rear an inch or 2 and a half for now .... good work
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What nut case would run 33's on the rear of their baja !
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nils
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 06:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by grinderman
I'm sorry but the next step is obvious .......33's.....33's........33's.........c'mon everybody start the chant !!! LOL.
In all seriousness (I cant believe I'm saying this) maybe drop it down a spline on the back and fit some 32inch rears to even it out nicely, which
would give you more droop which equals more traction. Have a look at 235/85r16's they measure 32inch high and 8.5inch wide (slightly narrower tyres will improve your economy as
well).
Alyce just gets better week.....
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might want to add power steering to this list 
Quit calling rust patina
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 06:54 PM |
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haha, don't you worry, hes got rack and peanut on the way close enough
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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nils
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 07:47 PM |
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Speaking of those daewoo rackss, you have a power or a manual rack smiley?
Quit calling rust patina
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baghall
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 09:41 PM |
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Nice job Smiley. Glad they fit but yeah would look better further back. Bit of a hijack but I was told of a way to get lift that can be done. If you
cut off the rear clip and front clip and reweld them 2 inches lower it will give lift to the body. Would need to gusset them well, though.
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 10:07 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
drop the rear an inch or 2 and a half for now .... good work
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2 and a half! I've only raised it 3 inches, I'd almost be back where I started if I dropped it that much. After the thrashing she got today the
suspension has settled a little (will post pictures soon) but it looks like the drivers side is a little lower than the passengers. I not sure if
it's cause of the big lump behind the wheel or if the torsion bars aren't even. I will take some good measurements tomorrow and see what I want to
do. The drivers side is perfect, I might have to drop the passengers an inch or so to match.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bone
What nut case would run 33's on the rear of their baja !
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It's an exclusive club I've heard of, and I would very much like to join
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
might want to add power steering to this list
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I don't think it will be needed. The car is very nice to steer and drive at the moment with the 225/75/16s and I'm still running a box. The
235/85/16s are only 10mm wider and a little bigger in diameter, I don't think the footprint would be much bigger than what I have currently. So I
think a rack should be able to push it around fine.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Speaking of those daewoo rackss, you have a power or a manual rack smiley?
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Neither 
I did actually pick two Daewoo power racks up very cheap from the wreckers.
But I'm not going to be running them. I've got a brand new MkI Golf rack here at home and it's going in instead. Just need to get around to
starting to fit it.
I will post pictures of today's shenanigans as soon as I can. I think I drove the hardest track in the world today
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 10:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by baghall
Nice job Smiley. Glad they fit but yeah would look better further back. Bit of a hijack but I was told of a way to get lift that can be done. If you
cut off the rear clip and front clip and reweld them 2 inches lower it will give lift to the body. Would need to gusset them well, though.
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You mean the framehead on the front and the torsion housing on the back?
I have seen this done where someone welded another torsion housing onto the car at the back directly under the stock one. Can't remember what he had
at the front.
Problems with this is you are adding a lot of extra weight, would have to gusset the crap out of it like you said, I'm not sure of legality? and you
are not actually gaining any ground clearance. Cause you are only moving the body up on the suspension, not winding the suspension up for more
height.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 04:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Good job Daniel
Amazing effort as always. Alyce the monster truck prevails again. I bet those 4wd co-workers shut up now lol.
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I forgot to say. A lot of the dudes at work are blown away by how massive she is. Certainly gets some comments.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 04:53 PM |
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Well I went out offroading yesterday. Headed up to 5-Rocks and then out to do some forestry tracks.
On the way into the 5-rocks up the big hill the sand was so soft. It's the softest I've ever seen it. I was running 5psi in my tyres and wasn't
getting anywhere. I had to drop them down to 3psi and what a difference that made! Walked straight up the sand hill with a few revs on board.
The 4WDs that were there had to drop their pressures a lot too, and needed four wheel drive and low range to make it 
Here's a view looking from the recently refurbished Stockyard Point, down onto 5-rocks.
As we were heading in first thing in the morning there was a tree dropped across the track leading out of one of the creek crossings, but not by
nature. Someone had purposefully dropped the tree to block the track and prevent access. There are people that actually live up at Stockyard Point so
I have no idea why someone would do such a foolhardy and dangerous thing. I stopped and had a chat to one of the locals and he said it wasn't there
the night before.
The tree was massive and still quite attached where it had been cut. So we ended up driving around it through the creek to get past. There was the 2
cars and me, and then 3 4WDs of blokes I know from work. We were literally the first ones into 5-Rocks that day. By the time we got through more
people had arrived and were starting to line up.
Here's a picture of the tree I took while we were on our way back out, someone with a chainsaw and a massive which had shifted it off the road.
Tratty's brother Matt and my other friend Lincoln provided a size comparison
And here's where it was dropped across the track. It was sitting at around headheight.
On the way out I decided to drive back through the side track anyway, for the fun on it.
On the other side of the creek I found a nice mound to check my suspension on now that the back has been done,
You can see here it's not quite compressing fully up into the guard anymore. I think I am going to drop the back a little bit.
Front flexes nice and the wheels don't rub.
Tyres at 3psi 
After this we headed into the Byfield store for a spot of lunch.
Matt had to head home, and then Lincoln and I went north towards the army base to find some forestry tracks.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 05:15 PM |
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Here's one of the tracks I drove. I found it quite a while ago but I don't think my car was capable of tackling it back then. I've always wanted to
try driving it because as far as I can tell no one else has. The difficult stretch is only about 30m long, but is so rutted and washed out. There is a
large large metre deep washout towards the end of the difficult bit which makes this track impassible to 4WDs cause they are too wide to drive past it
and if you slipped in you would roll. Might be able to if they had like 5 feet of suspension travel. fortunately Alyce is just small enough to hug the
fence (to the army base) on the LHS and sneak past on the bank, the wheels were only a few inches from the side of the washout. Small is sometimes
better!!!!!!!!!!!!
The offending section, pictures never seem to do tracks justice.
The washout, where it starts there is a 2 foot drop straight down.
Here I am standing in the washout. You can see it's over waist height on me.
Well straight into it. Down another one of those 2 foot drops and if you look closely you can see my back wheel hanging in the air. Yep, she's
resting on the barwork!
Had to lift the back and pack that wheel. We also chipped a bit off the bank under the barwork.
Walking her through, the front wheels spent a lot of time in the air on this track
Sorry about the poor picture, we were looking into the setting sun. This is just before the big washout starting to turn up onto the bank.
Driving past the hole, can't fit a 4WD up here!
Then another big step down.
VICTORY!!! Out the other side. Lincoln wisely opted to drive around and meet me at the other end of this track. I don't think the little Subie had
much of a hope.
It might not be the hardest track in the world but it's certainly the worst one I've driven. Just need to try it in the wet now 
Who else is doing this in their daily driver work hack?
Thanks for reading, time for more upgrades!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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nils
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 08:54 PM |
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The golf rack was one of the racks I looked into when putting in a rack (also I looked into a LADA of all things) from what i have seen the golf rack
is shorter and will fit between the shock towers ,which need to be cut off to fit the daewoo rack (not to mention that a broke one already ) so I look forward to seeing your instal.
Looking at some of those photos, lookes like cutting brake may go well on you mod list, it's like poor mans traction control
Always a good read smiley
Quit calling rust patina
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