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Author: Subject:  Andrew's 2276cc Grunter
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:13 PM



Craig also made up some sacers for below the springs.
These are a special($) conical spring now available that can be fitted with a locator at the spring base.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm28.jpg

Craig modified the original retainer to use these.
I was able to use normal spring shims underneath the lower locator, to equalize the travels and tensions.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm29.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:17 PM



I had to make up a locator for the small retainer,
so that mu spring compressor would work:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm30.jpg

And also took some lateral thinking when I went to (later)check the geometry:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm15.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:25 PM



http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm31.jpg

For this application, and cam shaft, the copression was chosen to be around 9:1.
This meant tht the heads needed to be fly cut.
the first CC came out at 65, with no hand work.
I also found this problem that seems common to all the CNC heads that have come from CB.(that I have worked on).

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm24.jpg

The exposed threads are just pre-ignition waiting to occur.

So I made up these wahers:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm25.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm27.jpg

Much better:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm26.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:32 PM



I spent a few hours blending the ports,
and once the heads were flycut,
the chambers were all de-burred and blended,
and the CC finalized at 64cc.

I drilled and tapped a thread in the head for the EFI temp sensor:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm18.jpg

And then the heads could be finally washed and assembled with lubrication.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm33.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:37 PM



Before I could assemble the top end,
I had a few more things to do.
I fitted the oil seal and flywheel:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm2.jpg

And then went to work trying to make the JC pushrod tubes fit.

First modification was to cut the diameter down on these washers:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/and9.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:41 PM



On some cylinder heads, the large outside diameter of the shims can prevent the seal from seating properly.

This modification was done on a mandrel on the lathe:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm1.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm.jpg

Next it was found that the larger tube would interfere with the "cool tin".
It would have weakened the tin to the point of failure had I clearanced it,

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm13.jpg

...so some good old fashioned early tin was trial fitted, and then cleaned/painted to do the job.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm14.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm11.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm12.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm16.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:53 PM



The final step was to set up the rocker clearance and geometry,
and make the pushrods.
For this engine we are using the manton dual tapered chrome-moly versions.
Andrew may try some of the special aicooled.net dual tapered aluminium ones in the future,
since this engine only having fairly low spring tension,
a (weaker) alum p'rod could be less noisy when hot.

The simple rule of thumb was to have a pushrod and rocker post shim and lash cap combination,
that allows for the adjuster to be inline with the push rod at half lift.
In this case the lift point of .264" was chosen,
and then the assembly cycled to observe the roller tip only swept a small amount across the valve tip.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm17.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm15.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 02:56 PM



Thinking I was only minutes from completion,
by bolting on the rocker covers,
I realized that the hardware included would not match the larger 3/8" UNF studs, used to clamp down the Pauter rockers.

Once I drilled out the covers, and made some studs,
the seals would no longer fit:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm19.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 03:00 PM



So I counterbored the rocker cover recess a little larger,
and machined the stud down in its middle to 8mm,(where the seal sat).

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/apm20.jpg

And then added a flat washer, a lock washer and a nice nut.

Done deal:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n216/dangerous_05/Andrews2275.jpg




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 04:06 PM



awesome work dave and a great read, out of interest what the going rate for engine assembly of this quality?
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 04:23 PM



I know this is probably a secret... but dave, how did you get it upstairs....
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 05:31 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by colonel mustard
I know this is probably a secret... but dave, how did you get it upstairs....


one piece at a time.....:lol:




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 07:17 PM



how do you say thanks for a build like this???????

Firstly i need to thank the guys at CE. Craig and Mark have been advising, teaching and helping me through this VERY long engine build.
Pat Downs at CB also was a good source of advice and it was appreciated.
And finally Dave for the assembly. fantastic pics and it really shows the care and attention that you pay to your work. i also need to thank you for the gear box that is currently in the car waiting for perfect pairing 2276 and a stong box.

Over the next few weeks i will be finishing the tinware and the EFI. then it is off to the dyno for run in and tuning.

After four years of purchasing, preparing, postponing, moving from Sydney to NZ and back to Brisbane (the car has travelled with us) it is SOOOOOOOOOOO close now.

My wife would't let me have the engine in the lounge so at the moment it is in the wardrobe. but i look at it every night.
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 07:26 PM



Whats the injection setup your running?
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 07:28 PM



CB quicktune
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 07:39 PM



Great stuff Andrew. Patience pays off in the end.
Coffee table is the place for it until install :rolleyes:




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 07:43 PM



WOW...somebody has VERY deep pockets !!:lol:............will be good to see the end results once in the car :cool:



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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 07:53 PM



What a fantastic build. Great work Dave and very envious Andrew. :crazy: Whats the motor going into?
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 09:02 PM



this is the car that is receiving the engine.

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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 09:17 PM



Ever since I got into VWs two years ago I have been told: There are engine builders, and then there are engine builders.

I think the work done on this one demonstrates the enormous amount of time, skill and knowledge required to build an engine well.

Unfortunately it also highlights to me how lacking I am in at least two of the three attributes that I listed when it comes to rebuilding my own engine :sniffle:

Well done Dave and I'd like to see and hear this engine in person one day.

Craig




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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 09:42 PM



Very very nice bit of kit!

thanx for the lessons DB, always revealing.

Great cam choice..........you will love it Andrew
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posted on May 11th, 2010 at 05:33 PM



Craig, it should stop too. it has your brother's brakes in it!
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posted on May 11th, 2010 at 05:35 PM



vassy, if only the wife would let me.
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posted on May 11th, 2010 at 05:37 PM



thanks hellbugged. it has been a while since i have driven a quick bug. it is a big step up from the 1916 i used to run.
can wait to get back in the seat.
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posted on May 11th, 2010 at 08:28 PM



just needs my K bar to stop the forks flexing !!:smirk:



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posted on May 11th, 2010 at 08:29 PM



Quote:
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Craig, it should stop too. it has your brother's brakes in it!


stopping is probably more to do with a quality tyre !!




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posted on May 12th, 2010 at 07:09 AM



when i bought the car, it already had bracing from the forks to the body, so i will see how that goes.
as far as Tyre, I can't remember what brand/model they are but they were recommended by a circuit racer, so hopefully they should be fine.
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posted on May 16th, 2010 at 08:28 PM



had a chance to get some work done on the accessaries. the tinware was a pain in the neck though but it looks like it's all together now.
just working through the manifolds and throttle bodies. hopefully next weekend i can start to get the engine into the car.

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posted on May 16th, 2010 at 08:35 PM



Andrew - Is that Stev Natoli's old car???

and damn - that seems like a nice motor!:tu:




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posted on May 16th, 2010 at 08:37 PM



Looks good Andrew, will the fuel rail clear the side of the car ok ?



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