| [ Total Views: 19206 | Total Replies: 115 | Thread Id: 97861 ] |
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 madness726
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| posted on August 11th, 2012 at 02:29 PM |
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Well it is still slow going.. Having a hard time finding someone who does the wiring harness conversion.. I thought outfront motorsports did it but
they only do it for there Stand alone ECU's, Keneddy Eng told me of a guy Tom Shiels in Canada but his price is out of my budget for it right now. I
do have a few emails out to other Shops that might do it but no replies yet.. ... Oh well other stuff to take care of while waiting.. I will post some more pics in a bit.. As I get a little further into the
project..
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 07:23 AM |
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I finally purchased my Kennedy adapter plate today. Should be here in 5 to 10 days..
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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hellbugged
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 07:50 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by madness726
Well it is still slow going.. Having a hard time finding someone who does the wiring harness conversion.. I
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There is a bloke dwn here that does a good priced job on them. Might be worth sending it over. Airmail would have it here, converted and back in a
little over a week.
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 08:22 AM |
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AM automotive are the Subaru wiring gur's and who we used to use for the Subaru wiring harnesses in our Bay window conversions at CVD
http://amauto.com.au
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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madness726
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 08:48 AM |
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I have talked with AMauto and I am going to send it to them.. They have the best price By far that I have seen. Everywhere here wants 600 to 1000US to
do it.. They want 261US (250AUS) to do it, and will do it in 1 day, All the other places said 5-7 weeks. I just have to cover shipping to and from
there.. Which is about 200US . But I am going to wait a few weeks till I do it.
Thanks for the replies
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 08:37 PM |
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Hi
It will be a bit lighter on the way back so you will save a bit on postage. Maybe you could ask if there's anything obvious that you can remove
before posting it.
I sent him big box with loom in it and it came back about 1/4 the size, I highly recommend their work.
Steve
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madness726
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| posted on August 27th, 2012 at 01:51 AM |
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They told me that All i have to send is the loom that connects to the ecu. But the bad thing is that both the engine and the left front fender loom
have ecu plugs on them.. so I am seeing if they need the left fender one.. if not that will drop the cost a ton..
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on September 2nd, 2012 at 07:28 AM |
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I have to put the project on hold for a few months , But will
update when I get back to it.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 02:29 PM |
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Are the disc brake kits, year and type specific? cause there is a guy selling brand new in box front and rear kit for 300 dollars near me but at end
of CL post he says standard bug? just wondering if they would work on my super?
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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Joel
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 02:55 PM |
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You would need different front caliper mounting brackets.
SUpers use a squarish 4 bolt pattern, standards have a triangular 3 bolt pattern.
Rest is the same though.
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madness726
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 03:01 PM |
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i will post a pic of it here in a sec
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 03:05 PM |
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here are the pics,
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 03:08 PM |
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Also Joel could you tell me the measurements of the radiator u are using. I am going to be buying one soon. And the alfa radiators are hard to find
here. so i going to look for one with about the same measurements
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 03:17 PM |
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Are those Brakes the right ones for a super?
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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Joel
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 03:17 PM |
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I'd pass on those brakes, they look like Standard beetle caliper mounts.
Also those rear calipers are just stock front ones which are abit small for the rear and you would lose the park brake.
Try a Mk1 and 2 Golf/Rabbit/Scirroco rad, same width as my Alfa one but only about 2" higher.
Alot easier to get too.
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madness726
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 03:34 PM |
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thanks for the info!
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 10th, 2012 at 03:25 PM |
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Well I have decided to restore the Beetle before continuing with the swap. I have the motor already, as you probably read in the post prior to this,
But I really want to make the car right before I go ahead with the swap.
So here are the first pic of what I done in the past few days.
I started with removing every layer of paint and primer to the metal, where the c-pillar has rust.
I am using a abrasive pad attached to my grinder. I will be doing the whole car this way, which will take a lot time and effort, but I cannot bring
myself to pay $1600 for it to be media blasted.
I am getting a donor c-pillar from a 68 that has no rust. I am going to cut and replace the cancer area. Pic of that will be coming in the next few
weeks.
After I got that section done I decided to strip and trash the interior since I am going to replace it.
There is some rust on the passenger side pan. So I will be cutting that out and replacing it too.
I will take a pic of that later.
I knew there was a panel replaced on the passenger side but did not know how bad they did it, until I started sanding thru tons of bondo (filler).
Then I got to the door. It has a 1/4 inch layer on it.. Just going to trash the door and get a replacement.
More progress to come in the next couple of weeks.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 02:15 AM |
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What year doors will fit on my super? Do I have to stick with 73up or will older doors fit?
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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lou0060
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 06:56 PM |
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good to see it back on track. good work with the sanding by the look of it.
1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising 
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust 
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief 
1960 beetle - old school low & slow  |
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Joel
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 08:46 PM |
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Why one earth do you want new doors?
those are some of the straightest I've seen for a while.
To answer the question, 68 on doors fit if they arent Brazilian but the 68-70 will have the trim at the wrong height and different shape door handle
recesses and 68-72 have different arm rest mounts.
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madness726
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 02:59 AM |
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Good to know. I only want to replace the passenger door. It has about 1/4 in of filler all across it. I guess I dont have to but I would rather have a
door without a layer of filler. but i might still use it. I can get replacement door for $30 around here that is straight and little to no rust. here
is a pic of one that in about 50 km from me. for $30.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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Joel
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 08:42 AM |
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That's a 68-70 door and will fit fine but has a couple of differences.
see how the chrome strip holes are about 1/2" lower and there is the hook for the arm rest where as your existing doors are screw in kind.
Also the door handle recess is a slightly different shape, something to keep in mind if you ever try to fit those chrome door handle scratch plates.
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madness726
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 09:28 AM |
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the more i take this car apart the more pieces I find from other bugs. It seems like a previous owner took 3 bugs and made one.  ..... The passenger door is already a 68-70 while the driver one is a 73. But
I am going to find a 73 door to put on the pass side. I am also going to weld the chrome plug holes up. I am not going to have any trim on the bug
when finished. And bumper hole will be welded also. I like the way it looks without bumpers.
Hey Joel I was looking at another build on the samba from OTO X58 And he used a megasquirt ecu and harness. As I was looking into them and I find
that they are pretty damn cheap way to go for my ecu and harness. I probably am going to attempt to do the harness myself but if I screw up it seems
to be a good choice and alot cheaper then sending my suby harness off to get done. What do you think of the mega's?
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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Joel
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 11:28 AM |
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If you're talking about the passenger door in this pic, its a 73-74 door and probably original going by the internal paint.
THe MS is an ok option if you don't mind piecing a system together and dialing it all in, I just like stock as it's designed for that engine, got
alot more $$ R&D behind it, is smooth as butter and gives the best economy and engine lifespan not to mention the full self diagnostics.
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madness726
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 12:12 PM |
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Ya that is true about the stock ecu. Hopefully I am sucessful in doing the harness myself.
and yes you are right That door is the correct one, which means the driveside door is the 68-70 one  but it is nice and straight so I am going to keep it.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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Joel
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 12:29 PM |
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Yeah it is, notice how the trim holes are lower than the front and rear quarter panels?
once you weld up the trim holes the only difference will be the door handle recess but 99.9% of people don't even notice the difference.
You can drill the spot welds out and remove that hook for the arm rest and use the screw in type so it matches the other side or do what I did and fit
a hook to the passanger door and run early style.
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madness726
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| posted on November 19th, 2012 at 01:54 AM |
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So I got the donor C-pillar the other day and figured it was time to cut out the rust I had there.
My brother also stopped bye and helped. Which was very cool since it took a long time and was more cutting then I expected.
So got the area with rust cut out of the beetle and removed the foam.
But we stopped there. Next weeked I will cut the piece I need out of the donor c-pillar and weld it in.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on November 26th, 2012 at 12:04 PM |
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So I patched up the c-pillar area today and welded the trim holes up... I am going to finish up the body work and paint it flat black for now and get
back to doing the swap..
I can say one thing "I SUCK AT WELDING!" But I am a Master grinder now!!
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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madness726
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| posted on February 4th, 2013 at 10:05 AM |
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Yay I am able to get log back into my account.. Was not able to for a few weeks.. Thanks Joel and Dave for helping me out.....
ok well, I know I am still a little off topic but I will be getting back to the swap very soon.. But here is what I have done to the car lately.
Not bad for my first time doing some body work..
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 08:25 AM |
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pretty good.
I am in the same boat atm. I did my first lead filling the other week turned out good.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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