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posted on April 15th, 2014 at 09:05 AM
fuel pump set up
Joel you asked about my fuel pump set up, so I will post a few pics
You can see here i have the fuel pump mounted hard against the chassis rail, it gets good gravity feed, wrapped in black rubber so as not to amplify
any noise
you can see below the new tank outlet, it is the one towards the edge. I got Pete at CVD to weld in a new bigger tank outlet , we used this one to
feed the clear plastic paper fuel filter. we now use the original outlet as the fuel return.
once under the bus I can see that plastic filter is full of crud, a little surprising as I have had the tank out 2 years ago , cleaned it and it
looked good inside.
So what is more likely? is that paper filter just doing its job? or is it likely with that amount of crud some of it has made its way into the fuel
pump and is what is causing the issue?
I have a new original Bosch 044 on its way to me , so I dont want to repeat the problem
Joel
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Wondering if that 8mm inlet hose is just a bit too small to keep it fed under load?
my Bosch 984 pump which is the next size down from the 044 has a 12mm inlet hose.
trouble with that is getting a filter that would fit in 12mm hose and the barb on the tank is 8mm too.
I would see how you go with the new pump.
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posted on April 15th, 2014 at 02:11 PM
yes I agree
Joel, Pete at CVD said that outlet should be ok, he thought it was bigger or same size as in a kombi with EFI.
One idea before I wreck another pump , do you see anything wrong with putting 2 clear plastic fillers series? I don't think they restrict flow and
this would be a good way for me to see if crud is making it through the first plastic filter. I could do this for a while, few weeks and then pull the
2nd filter out to see if crud is making its way through
Before I install the new 044 is it possible lo clean the existing pump out? Would compressed air help?
the EFI filter Is also new is it possible to inspect? Do I replace or leave it as is. ?
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The Subaru fuel injection has a bit higher demands than the original Kombi system but the outlet should still be adequate.
No harm in running 2 filters, they will not obstruct the flow, they are only rock catchers.
Sadly the pumps are sealed items to force you to buy new ones instead of servicing, same with the filters but if the EFI filter is only new I;d leave
it (assume its a stock subi one?)
the replacement interval for them is 50,000kms.
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posted on April 17th, 2014 at 05:50 AM
joel
thanks for the reply
if those clear plastic filters are rock catchers then i assume stuff might be clogging the fuel pump right now?
Is there a better type/brand of this clear plastic/paper filter to protect the fuel pump?
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Its only real fine sediment that gets through them and that shouldn't worry the pump too much, the EFI filter would catch it.
I haven't actually replaced my EFI filter yet but have a new one to go it it, I'm going to cut it open just for interests sake to see how much crap
is in it after 5 years.
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posted on April 23rd, 2014 at 08:52 PM
new Pump arrived
New. Bosch 044 pump arrived
it goes in this weekend I hope it fixes the issue.
slight Setback the new one has a screw in inlet but old one has a push on connector
need to hunt down an adaptor
Google says it might be a M 18 and 1.5 thread . Does anyone know?
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posted on April 23rd, 2014 at 09:34 PM
Just take it into somewhere that stocks speedpro fuel fittings and check
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posted on May 20th, 2014 at 05:49 PM
new 044 pump back in
bits and pieces arrived in the mail , so my plan was to install the new bosch original 044 pump, install a fuel valve to making handling petrol
easier in the future and upgrade the fuel pump hose from 5/16 to 3/8.
here i compare the original bosch to the e-bay bosch spec pump. you can see the original looks bigger and it is heavier too. I hope it does a better
job
just need to test drive to prove no more fuel problems then i can get back to finalsiing the cooling.
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posted on May 20th, 2014 at 05:50 PM
new 044 pump back in
bits and pieces arrived in the mail , so my plan was to install the new bosch original 044 pump, install a fuel valve to making handling petrol
easier in the future and upgrade the fuel pump hose from 5/16 to 3/8.
here i compare the original bosch to the e-bay bosch spec pump. you can see the original looks bigger and it is heavier too. I hope it does a better
job
just need to test drive to prove no more fuel problems then i can get back to finalsiing the cooling.
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posted on May 22nd, 2014 at 06:22 PM
what is the EJ 22 healer hose size?
this weekend I run 2 long heater hoses up to the cabin .
Cant see it in Haynes
Can someone tell me the Correct Size heater hose to use?
thanks Paul
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posted on May 28th, 2014 at 06:29 PM
Sunnyjim reporting for duty....
Weekend of progress. New original fuel pump in with upgraded 3/8 inch fuel hose in. No fuel starvation issues.
I have proven original expensive bosch Pumps are better than cheap Chinese ebay copies. .... Der...
I also ran $80 of 16mm heater hose up into the cabin ready for a heater/ac core.
nils
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posted on May 29th, 2014 at 05:39 AM
Mmm.......... Heater and a/c
Quit calling rust patina
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posted on May 30th, 2014 at 09:21 AM
yep new heater ac core
Nils I will soon post a few pics of heater core.
Even though seems I have fixed the fuel starvation issues the pump seems noisy.
How did people handle this?
Anyone had the same issue?
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posted on May 30th, 2014 at 10:30 AM
is it a genuine Bosch?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
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posted on May 30th, 2014 at 07:56 PM
yes I think original
Gday Vlad
yes I think original
after getting caught the first time will a $60 eBay copy I was told that all original Bosch pumps are now made in the CZheck republic . I also googled
and bought from a USA site that "guaranteed "originals
this one came in what looks like an Original box and had Czech stamped /engraved on the pump. from the photos you can see it Is more substantial
I am also not sure yet is it the pump noisy or the noise is the flow through the lines and back through an empty tank ? I also have cut a hole for the
hatch amplifylng noise
having said all this the copy pump was quieter but could not keep up
I lhink I need someone to listen, perhaps it is normal
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External fuel pumps are typically pretty noisy, one of the reasons the manufactures went to intank pumps to help drown the noise so to speak.
Mine is a genuine Czheck made one and has been in since day one now and has over 75,000kms on it now.
Its got a little bit quiter over the years.
If you skip to the 2 min mark you can hear it
That was when I first got the conversion up and running in mid 2009, its quietened down a bit since then.
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posted on June 1st, 2014 at 04:21 PM
thx for posting
joel
thx fr posting that, must say that is one great looking beetle
i am not going to worry too much now about the nosiy fuel pump because i haven't sealed anything yet. i should judge the noise at the end of the
conversion. at least it moves sunnyjim smoothly now.
still got a couple of things to work through. i cant get the wiring loom temp wire to turn on the fans. relay is good but i can't see the signal
changing voltage. i will keep looking at it . i rather get the engine ecu to do this. but is there some oem in line sensor i can buy? turn on at 98
degrees c and off at 90 etc?
( i am not sure of exact temps )
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Just make sure your fan relay is wired up correctly too, the ECU sends a ground to the relay not a positive.
It should be triggering the relay on at 95c and off at 90c.
You can get inline senders if you need or some radiators have a port for a switch.
I;m sure you have probably mentioned it but what radiator are you using again?
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posted on June 2nd, 2014 at 07:55 PM
twin min coopers
joel
i am using 2 new small austin mini cooper rads with 10 inch fans on each , installed into the engine bay.
i need to just shroud them so all the air has to go through them, that seems to be the secret for engine bay installs (i am told)
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posted on June 5th, 2014 at 01:14 PM
here are the rads and fans - this is before I got the rad caps cut off and welded close
here are the rads and fans - this is before I got the rad caps cut off and welded close
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posted on June 5th, 2014 at 01:40 PM
In hindsight
this project has been great for me , realling learning by trial and error , unfortuneate it costs money! However I haven't made too many stuff
ups
In hindsight I should have found small rads with 38mm outlets. I reckon i spend over 200$ just on silicon adaptors going from 25 mm p to 38mm
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posted on June 26th, 2014 at 08:47 PM
twin fans kicking in at 110
i took some time off today to get under the bus .
the fuel pump is still very noisy. I cant quiet understand yet. the cheap ebay copy was very nice and quiet but it could not keep up with the demand.
I changed the return hose for a larger size to see if that made a difference . No it didn't , anyway that is a problem way down on the priorty
list
I got the twin fans wired in but my concern is they kick in at 110 degrees. Ok so maybe my old kombi aircooled VDO temp gauge is wrong? I thought
the kick in temp is pretty well fixed by the ecu. Perhaps this gauge is wrong?
So this is what I am going to do.
I bought this adapator ,I will insert in the radiator hose . It has a 1/8 inch temp sensor in it . I driilled and tapped it , put a brass piece
in it so I can also use it to fill the coolant. I will run a second temp gauge just to see if it is different
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posted on June 27th, 2014 at 06:05 AM
Don't forget to ground the temp sender body
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Paul, if you have the ECU turning the fans on it's fixed at 95c so if your gauge is reading 110c when the fans cut in its just reading a bit high.
I had the same problem when I first got mine running they were coming on at 104c but it was really 95 and my temp gauge was just reading high.
You can put the sender in a boiling jug and see how the gauge reads, thats how I found out how off mine was.
You would know if it was getting upto 110c, thats starting to get pretty hot, they usually start to boil over between 115-120.
It would be spitting out alot of coolant into the overflow.
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posted on June 27th, 2014 at 07:14 PM
Temp guage reading high?
Bad 62 thanks for the reminder
Joel lt is good you said that about the gauge . I never thought a gauge could be that inaccurate
Could below be part of the problem?
the VDO gauge was in a kit . The sensor is still in the sump plug of the aircooled 1600 donk. Now I have the VDO temp gauge connected to the EJ22
temp sensor. So Is this this a mismatch? .
I bought another gauge with a new sensor that I plan lo put into one of the radiator hoses and see what happens
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Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
Now I have the VDO temp gauge connected to the EJ22 temp sensor. So Is this this a mismatch?
There's the problem.
Actually this is dejavu, I've got 2 friends in the US that have both got EJ22 conversions running in the last few weeks and thought they were running
hot.
Both had connected their aftermarket temp gauges up to the stock EJ22 temp sender which makes the gauge read about 20c high.
If you run the inline sender make sure its in the top hose before it goes through the rads otherwise it will give a false low reading.
You can just fit the sender into stock spot on the coolant manifold but you may need to clearance the lip inside which is delicate work.
some aftermarket senders are too fat to fit inside it.
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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 09:38 PM
Weekend Roundup. more questions!
Joel
I was hoping for a big break through, over the weekend it didn't happen. Not exactly sure what is going on.
I liked the idea of thinking The VDO gauge was wrong. But I then connected the coolant sensor wire to another temp gauge, this one a digital. Temps
the same.
so I am thinking..".
Is it possible the EJ coolant sensor is not standard and needs to be matched to a subaru temp gauge?
OR Perhaps the coolant sensor might need checking? But it looks a nightmare to get to. So before I do that I can at least check those 2 temp gauges .
I have bought a temp sensor and connect it to those temp gauges. If I put the temp sensor the boiling water and get 100 degrees it proves the gauges.
I was wondering about my thermostat, replaced it, still no change, also boiled those 2 up. Nope they are good . I love this shot. Now I know how a
thermostat works.
One thing I have noticed, the 2 heater hoses I ran up to the dashboard seem to be very hot but twin rads and upper hose seems cold . The bottom hoses
seem hotter but I cant feel much flow going through them . Even though I have proved the thermostat is ok it doesn't feel like much flow is going
through the radiators.
Silly question. Is there a wrong way to connect the radiators?. I have connected out of the pump to the bottom of the radiator. As it is all one
closed loop this shouldn't matter.
I thought of air locks but I have now got Over 5 litres in there and got a lot of air out.
I installed 2 other temp sensors, One in the upper hose and one in the lower hose will soon check these temps after proving the gauges are ok
All it seems so far is full flow seems to go though the heater hose loop but not much through the radiators.. I installed the new water pump, took
the timing belt cover off and I can see the pump roller is turning nicely
what about this for an idea? If I remove the thermostat run it for all while and see it the temps are different ?
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The stock temp gauge sender in the coolant manifold only works correctly with the stock subi dash temp gauge.
For some reason it runs a much higher value than most aftermarket gauges which is why they are all reading high when connected to it.
If you put your aftermarket temp gauges sender in that adapter and put it in the top hose you'll be good to go if you didnt want to remove and swap
the stock one.
Quote:
Originally
posted by Sunnyjim
One thing I have noticed, the 2 heater hoses I ran up to the dashboard seem to be very hot but twin rads and upper hose seems cold.
I might have missed it but what is your heater setup?
That is a potential problem.
The subaru cooling system uses the heater circuit to control the opening and closing of the thermostat.
That works fine in a stock Subaru setup but if you have some very long heater lines to the front of the car and also a big heater core the return line
might have lost a lot of heat by the time it gets back to the water pump which would keep the thermstat closed.
Its actually a pretty common problem in Kombi and Carravelle conversions and most people put in a heater bypass so the thermostat isnt relying on the
heater circuit any more.
taking the thermostat out will confirm that theory but it will take a lot longer to heat up and they stay in closed loop mode (sort of like a choke
mode) till the water is above a set temp which will play havoc on your fuel consumption and overall engine life span.
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posted on July 1st, 2014 at 08:14 PM
really appreciate the quick reply
Joel
thanks for the quick reply , as i had exhausted my limited knowledge.
I currently have 2 * 16mm heater hoses run up to the dash, but they're just connected together as a big loop. to and from are both same temp
It is starting to make a little more sense to me now . Still need clarifying, As I read haynes it quotes 89-98 models so it is hard to know if
they talk about ej22 or ej25 sometimes.
Does my 1989 ej22 have 1 or 2 sensors? I read 1 is connected to the ECU and the other to the dash gauge?or maybe that is on a later ej25 model?
As I have an AM auto wiring loom, i assumed the coolant temp sensor wire goes to the ECU then the ECU will drive the dash gauge
Do you suggest I find the wires that go to the stock coolant sensor, disconnect them and re-connect them to the new position in the upper radiator
hose. ( I just leave the original one where it is., disconnected)
see below i have already mounted the aftermarket sensor
If i change to a new sensor , does it confuse the ECU at all? As the engine management system also uses this sensor for air to fuel ratio mixtures ?
I thought of just removing the thermostat temporarily so i can get full flow through the radiators as I haven't had this yet. This would at least
prove I don't have a blockage like a rag stuck in there somewhere. I should see low temp and definitely not 120 degrees?
