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 Joel
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| posted on July 2nd, 2014 at 10:09 AM |
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No worries Paul
If the heater lines are just looped they should still be ok and shouldnt be losing too much heat even being that long.
Might be an issue once the heater is connected though.
The single temp sender was a late 90s onwards thing.
Yours being an 89 EJ22 it will have 2 sensors same as mine did:
The brown one is the ECU sender and the smaller brass one is just for the temp gauge.
THe ECU has no connection at all with the guage sender, only the bigger brown one so nothing is effected by changing the gauge one.
The stock Subi temp gauge sender is only good for Subaru dash gauges so Al and Miles would be wiring it up on the assumption people would be swapping
the sender for the one that matches the gauge used if its not going back in a Subaru vehicle.
It would be a nightmare to swap in a Kombi so I would just connect the temp gauge wire to your sender in the adapter up top.
Don;t forget the ground wire for the adapter too.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 2nd, 2014 at 06:06 PM |
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You are smack on
Joel
all makes sense now,I now know the next steps
Miles confirmed they leave that temp wire there On the assumption I would replace the sender with an aftermarket
I also have a oil pressure and oil temp gauge I want to install . Can you tell me the ideal locations?
oil pressure ? put a dual sender at the existing pressure sander spot?
oil temp ? Can I also use the oil pressure sender spot? or perhaps in the sump plug ?
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Joel
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| posted on July 3rd, 2014 at 08:14 PM |
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There is 2 ways you can go about adding oil pressure gauge.
1st is how I've done it which just a tee piece where the stock sender is under the alternator so you can fit the guage sender as well as the light
sender.
Only problem with that spot is you have to watch alternator clearance.
The other way is there is at the flywheel end of the block there is a second port with a blank plug in it.
You can get a 90 degree elbow and fit the sender there but its very tight.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 4th, 2014 at 08:14 PM |
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yep , that gauge was wrong ..big time
Joel and all who are interested.. breaking news
I just could not believe it , subie stock temp sensor with an after market VDO temp gauge was out by over 50 degrees!!!!
Now I think of it of course it makes sense , they were not made to work together.
So previously when I read the gauge at 120d it really might have been only 70 and the thermostat had not fully opened hence no flow in the twin
rads.
So I put in a temp sensor in the upper rad hose and now the fans come on at 100d. In fact I am not sure this is accurate because i have 3 temp
sensors in and got them mixed up, but only 5 degrees out sounds a whole lot better. I will boil some water this weekend and see which one is closest
to 100.
Then an even a better omen for cooling status ... once the fans kicked in , even though the kombi is stationary I immediately saw a 5 deg drop
i have not completed all the shrouding , so it should get better
I just want to get this done so soon my weekends are free!
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 6th, 2014 at 03:54 PM |
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need to find an accurate gauge and sender
I remember the sender for the VDO gauge is still stuck in the sump of my air cooled motor, so at least they were a pair. A good chance then of
being reasonably accurate
I will get it out set it up and test.
I had 2 senders and using the 100d boiiling water test , one tested 14d low and the other 15d high. I got a variable resistor and inserted it n
series with the one that read high and once again with boiling water with an extra 35ohms inserted I was able to get it to display 100d.
I dont know why but I now have a high idle 950-110 RPMS and then I went for a drive got it warm and it is sitting at 1100 . It wont go lower than
about 950
I don't think I have a leak and it is not running rough either
Anyone know what I should check next? I think it should idle at 850rpm?
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vlad01
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| posted on July 6th, 2014 at 05:55 PM |
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is the IAC connected? can you confirm its working?
throttle stop maybe adjusted incorrectly and the IAC can't reduce enough and hit it's limits as of result.
Air leak is possible.
Problem with the TPS. Faulty TPS will default to high idle coz the ECU can't tell if the TB is at what position so it bumps the idle high to prevent
stalling.
no or fault VSS will make the idle weird but not normally constantly high, more like low idel when rolling at speed, stalling without warning when
pulling up. Normally if all works correctly the idle is bumped up when driving ( while rolling in N, the idle will be high) to allow smooth
transition when stopping to a normal idle.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 6th, 2014 at 08:23 PM |
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something to chase
Vlad
Yes I was wondering about the IAC . I dont know much about it . I will have to read up on it.
I still dont have my check light hooked up. Would his problem show up?
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 6th, 2014 at 08:33 PM |
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no VSS yet
Vlad
I also don't have the VSS set up yet. But I also thought Ihu is not Contributing to the problem .
Am I right i f it was an airleak would the idle be rough? Mine is smooth
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vlad01
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 09:04 AM |
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yeah the CEL should show general problems.
No VSS generally causes issue with idle going to and from standstill/driving.
Air leak won't cause rough idle, just high idle and possible hunting of the idle.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 09:19 AM |
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Gday Paul, good news on the temp gauge.
if you want a true indication of what its running at the ECU turns the fans on at 95c and back off when it drops to 90c.
that is done off the ECU temp sender so its always accurate, it will throw the code and run the fans constantly in safe mode if the sender goes bad.
Speaking of you need to get a check engine light hooked up, that will help work out any issues like your high idle.
No VSS is not helping that makes it idle silly and stall alot but safe mode for a faulty TPS like Vlad says is to bump the idle up to 1500.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 09:32 AM |
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I suppose one thing you can do is pull the IAC out, watch it as you switch the ignition on. Should see the valve moving inward as soon as ignition is
switched on.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 09:51 AM |
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Its a PITA to remove because of the coolant lines running through it but with the ECU in diagnostic mode it cycles it open and closed.
You can hear if its operating.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 10:02 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Gday Paul, good news on the temp gauge.
if you want a true indication of what its running at the ECU turns the fans on at 95c and back off when it drops to 90c.
that is done off the ECU temp sender so its always accurate, it will throw the code and run the fans constantly in safe mode if the sender goes bad.
Speaking of you need to get a check engine light hooked up, that will help work out any issues like your high idle.
No VSS is not helping that makes it idle silly and stall alot but safe mode for a faulty TPS like Vlad says is to bump the idle up to 1500.
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The ECU temp is a good reference but not always reliable.
Had them go way out of range before without triggering CEL. Also had ECU read temps right but not switch the fan on, but did in diag mode fine. Ended
up cooking the engine because of that glitch 
Most reliable way is thermocouple in near where the ECU sensor is and cross checking. The thermocouple is the most accurate device for checking
temps.
71 notchback,
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vlad01
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 10:06 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Its a PITA to remove because of the coolant lines running through it but with the ECU in diagnostic mode it cycles it open and closed.
You can hear if its operating.
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was wondering if suby did that or not. good to know they do.
but even if you can hear it, doesn't mean its moving. Stepper motors make a racket moving or physically jammed. Seen them gunked up with carbon and
they buzz away trying to move.
71 notchback,
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Joel
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 01:04 PM |
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Subis are notorious for carboned up IACVs, especially phase 1 engines where the PCV is directly above it.
That is one of the main reasons Subaru market the upper engine cleaner is to help keep the IACV clean.
I Youtubed the last one I did, I thought it was pretty clean to I saw how much crap came out of it.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 09:50 PM |
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Can I adjust the iac?
Joel and Vlad
Thanks for the good ideas.
I am gonna get some of that subaru cleaner first. That seems the easiest thing.
Someone told me I can loosen the IAC valve to adjust the rpms down? Does that sound right?
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vlad01
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 10:00 PM |
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nope, the idea of the IAC is the ECU controls the idle using the IAC, anything you do will only upset the ECU and it will try to compensate to get
back to where it wants to.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 7th, 2014 at 10:03 PM |
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The holes are slotted and twisting it alters the idle speed but it is not going to work properly whilst ever it doesnt have a VSS signal
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vlad01
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| posted on July 8th, 2014 at 09:41 AM |
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That's kinda retarded and seems pointless , does the ECU have a desired idle speed it aims for?
The only thing I can think for having a manual adjustment is to get the IAC steps within spec @ desired normal idle. But that is always done but the
throttle stop screw. That leads to the question, does suby have a stop screw?
71 notchback,
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Joel
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| posted on July 8th, 2014 at 10:24 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
does the ECU have a desired idle speed it aims for?
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No, its really strange on phase 1 engines actually, instead of a desired idle speed it just has a desired IACV position that it always returns to.
So it can be set high or low by twisting the stepper motor but without a VSS signal input it doesnt know whats going on when revs are up coasting with
no throttle and shuts it too far trying to bring revs back to idle speed which is why the stalling happens.
My first ECU had some sort of fault and the idle up for A/C didnt work and it was almost stalling at idle when the A/C cut in.
I got around that by bumping the idle speed up to 900 till I got another ECU, stock idle speed is around 750
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vlad01
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| posted on July 8th, 2014 at 06:47 PM |
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That's really retarded design actually. I thought all 80s onward ECU had the basics of a idle feedback. Aiming for a target, watching step count vs
RPM.
Most ECUs I have played with that are hackable the idle is set in the tune.
71 notchback,
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 8th, 2014 at 10:28 PM |
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Guys
thanks for the comments
I will soon uk he upper engine cleaner, install the vss and CEL and then take it from here
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 11th, 2014 at 07:22 PM |
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Filler locations ?
hey Guys
I have now rearranged the cooling hoses. I got one of those aeropro in line radiator caps . so I can fill up at a high point. I also made a T into
the top hose and connected to the bottom heater hose.
Is that enough to reduce air locks ?
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 11th, 2014 at 07:27 PM |
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I guess I should have asked
Guys I should have asked what are the ideal locations to fill into ?
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 12th, 2014 at 05:36 PM |
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i have the rad cap up high just under the top of the hatch
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 19th, 2014 at 03:38 PM |
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what type of thermostat?
Hi all
whats the verdict on EJ22 replacement thermostats?
I bought a replacement on the left what I was told was subie. It clearly is different , looks less substantial in metal content and weight. I
tested both ok but put the bigger original back in.
has anyone had experience ?
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mackaymanx
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| posted on July 19th, 2014 at 04:12 PM |
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I get mine from here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Subaru-Thermostat-Gasket-Kit-Legacy-Forester-O...
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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vlad01
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| posted on July 20th, 2014 at 04:45 PM |
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I found dayco and trident? brand thermostats always ran much colder than advertised temp. on average 10-15ºC colder.
I only buy genuine stats for any car now after going though half a dozen or so of the popular brand with same problem.
71 notchback,
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on July 21st, 2014 at 05:22 PM |
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Brent
your picture shows it looks like an original
Vlad i will stay with my original as it still tests OK
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mackaymanx
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| posted on July 21st, 2014 at 05:47 PM |
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I've used three of these so far with no trouble, while not "genuine" they are made by the company that supplies Subaru.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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