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Author: Subject:  judson supercharger rebuild and fram bypass oil filter
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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:23 AM
judson supercharger rebuild and fram bypass oil filter


Bought an oval project a few years ago and it came with a recon. engine ,gearbox and a judson.I thought the judson was brand new as every thing else was new(Pulleys,Oiler etc.)But when running was noisy but pretty much same as others i have heard.Decided to pull it apart and found out it was well, stuffed see photo.

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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:34 AM



The vanes must have worn away quite a lot, to get that sort of wear on the rotor. Maybe had the wrong [or no] oil, also.

Is that a crack between the slots? If so, the rotor's rooted.....sounds like that place in NZ.




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:36 AM



the slots are mean't to be 3/16" wide but are well passed that.It has also been machined oversize so it is time for a new rotor.
The body is badly grooved but should hone up ok.
New rotors are available but are $700 plus postage and vanes $100. So i think first will try to make one.The vanes being oversize ,i should be able to mill these down to the right size.
I have ordered a billet of aluminium 90mm in dia.and 200mm long.
Have honed the body and has come out ok.

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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:41 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
The vanes must have worn away quite a lot, to get that sort of wear on the rotor. Maybe had the wrong [or no] oil, also.

Is that a crack between the slots? If so, the rotor's rooted.....sounds like that place in NZ.

The vanes aren't worn that bad.The original rotors are quite soft,as they are a cast alloy.The rotor is not cracked but is rooted as you said.




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:41 AM



Steve

I can not see any cracks in the rotor I have had Judsons since the early 90s in both cars

My rotors are similar in wear and have just add new vanes to make them work

Greg can you see cracks ???

new parts available from the guy in Ney York George F i can look his details up if you want




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:43 AM



Looks like you have things under control, Steve. What grade of aluminium are you using? See if you can get a 'radius' in the bottom of the slots, when milling them.



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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:51 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
Looks like you have things under control, Steve. What grade of aluminium are you using? See if you can get a 'radius' in the bottom of the slots, when milling them.

Have forgotten grade ,i went to a aluminium suppler and told him what i was going and the said this is the best grade for machining(it is not 6061 i think it was 5 something)But will be a lot better than original.




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:53 AM



Honestly i wouldnt worry about that one Mine are similar in wear and still work Good
I have purchased a few items from George F in Ney York hes really good and easy to work with for the parts you need




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 07:58 AM



What about remachining the slots and putting in spacers or thicker rotors. ??



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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 08:05 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
What about remachining the slots and putting in spacers or thicker rotors. ??

The slots have already been machined oversize with thicker vanes.




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 08:20 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
Honestly i wouldnt worry about that one Mine are similar in wear and still work Good
I have purchased a few items from George F in Ney York hes really good and easy to work with for the parts you need

I have also purchased parts from george.
It was working ok as you stated but iam very fussy .(It costs me a lot of money at times but it is the way i am)So i will be machining a new one or trying to.If i mess it up i will have to buy one from george.




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 01:02 PM



tried to press the shaft out of rotor but it would not move.My mates 20 ton press was starting to bend.I think i will make a new shaft as this one has a few battle scars.



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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 01:50 PM



Its NOT meant to be removed the steel shaft has tangs on it to stop the alloy section from mooving

its cast as one piece when being made

Please ask questions before you do any more damage




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 04:08 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
Its NOT meant to be removed the steel shaft has tangs on it to stop the alloy section from mooving

its cast as one piece when being made

Please ask questions before you do any more damage

What questions do i ask? Iam going to make a new rotor and shaft because mine is worn out. Tell me how please?




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 04:47 PM



Reckon you are on the right track, Steve. How will you 'key' the al. rotor to the shaft? Please show us your progress...... It will be interesting to see the results.



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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 05:30 PM



yes well the hard bit will be keeping the shaft n rotor together

It would be good if you could get a lump of alloy cast onto the old shaft and machine up a new rotor

Interest to know if the OD of the old rotor has varied or still concentric ( so just the slot has worn )

May be easier to mill the slot wider and obtain thicker bakelite material for the new vanes



Ive been fiddling with these since 1984 or so




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 06:05 PM



Dave i am sure you have been fiddling with it since before 1984,
Mitchell




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 06:41 PM



As there is very little load on the rotor,a good shrink fit should be ok.I will freeze new shaft i have made and heat rotor to as hot as i can.Then when shaft and rotor heat up should all hang together.Iam limited by my measuring equipment (have only digital calipers and my old calipers from apprenticeship) Will start for about a .005" interference fit ,which is a lot and
slowly machine shaft until it fits.Will keep you informed




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 06:57 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
yes well the hard bit will be keeping the shaft n rotor together

It would be good if you could get a lump of alloy cast onto the old shaft and machine up a new rotor

Interest to know if the OD of the old rotor has varied or still concentric ( so just the slot has worn )

May be easier to mill the slot wider and obtain thicker bakelite material for the new vanes



Ive been fiddling with these since 1984 or so
The rotor has already been machined for wider vanes.I think i have already stated that.




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posted on October 5th, 2012 at 11:31 PM



Hi Steve, it was nice to meet you at Warwick, will have to catch up and chat again soon.

Any pics of the new rotor and shaft??
Are you going to cut the new vein slots after pressing the shaft in?
Aaron




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posted on October 6th, 2012 at 06:53 AM



Steve

I take it you have seen this http://www.vwjudsonregister.org.uk/ 




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posted on October 6th, 2012 at 08:11 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
Steve

I take it you have seen this http://www.vwjudsonregister.org.uk/ 
Thanks vw54 yes have read it inside out,




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posted on October 6th, 2012 at 08:15 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 20bkombi
Hi Steve, it was nice to meet you at Warwick, will have to catch up and chat again soon.

Any pics of the new rotor and shaft??
Are you going to cut the new vein slots after pressing the shaft in?
Aaron
Hi Aaron ,I enjoyed our chat at Warwick and it was nice to meet you.
Iam about to put up the pictures of the shaft,and hope to fit the rotor to the shaft and then machine the rotor.
Steve




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posted on October 6th, 2012 at 08:37 AM



Steve, I assume you have in mind some form of 'keying' of the shaft & rotor? Perhaps you could also bore the rotor under-size, to provide an interference fit. Leave the shaft in the freezer for a while, and heat the rotor in the oven [200c?] before pressing together. There are people around[Dangerous?] who could help with precise dimensions, etc.



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posted on October 6th, 2012 at 08:40 AM



I have made up the shaft the same specs as the sample,the thread i screw cut (last one i did was about 40 yrs ago) and fits nut like a glove.Next to bore the Rotor i made up two boring bars from 12mm and 16mm s /s i had at hand .I want them to be rigid as possible as it is a long hole.

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posted on October 6th, 2012 at 09:13 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
Steve, I assume you have in mind some form of 'keying' of the shaft & rotor? Perhaps you could also bore the rotor under-size, to provide an interference fit. Leave the shaft in the freezer for a while, and heat the rotor in the oven [200c?] before pressing together. There are people around[Dangerous?] who could help with precise dimensions, etc.
Hi Greg,Thanks for the input,yes i will be going for a interference fit.Heat the rotor in the oven,shaft in the freezer and then heat the rotor with mapp gas to get it hotter and then if it does not fit ,remove .001" of shaft until it will fit.This may seem long winded but i have only a digatal caliper which isn't that accurate when talking .0005" Will let you know how it goes.




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posted on October 7th, 2012 at 07:54 AM



I tried a test cut in the old rotor to make sure it would work out ok.You can see the amount of wear .Also on the judson registry read about the case history ( i do not know how to do a link, i only learn't how to upload photo's last week).It states that the vane should be a neat fit in the slot,or air will bypass the vane and you lose effeciency .Commonsense pretty much.They will work in this state sort off,and be fine for a drive around the block but i like to know that i can drive from bris. to melb.Also in the resto of the oval the engine was rebuild to new specs. as was gearbox ,the whole car actually (it won 3 trophies at action day) So i want the supercharger to be the same.
Well onto the machining of the rotor first up was to bore a hole slightly undersize of the shaft.

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posted on October 7th, 2012 at 01:55 PM



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posted on October 7th, 2012 at 02:13 PM



Good luck with your project.

What is going to prevent the rotor from sliding/moving on the shaft when the finished product is in the Judson and actually working on the road? Just the interference fit?
Is it worth pinning the rotor to the shaft, so it cannot move in any direction?




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posted on October 7th, 2012 at 04:06 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by farkengruven
Good luck with your project.

What is going to prevent the rotor from sliding/moving on the shaft when the finished product is in the Judson and actually working on the road? Just the interference fit?
Is it worth pinning the rotor to the shaft, so it cannot move in any direction?
I am hoping the interference fit will be enough,if done right.There is not much of a load put on it.It is only 36hp remember,but if anyone has ideas how to pin it to the shaft let me know.Thanks for the support




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