Are these legal?

Just wondering if this is ADR compliant?

Wheel stud kit

Be handy on wide 5 VW's 🙂

Wide 5 studs are M12, those are M14. You would need to re-tap the drums and make sure you had 20 studs, not 16.

i run studs on my late notch

I had studs on my beach buggy when I got it
thought they were ok until the back wheel spat em off on a short run up to a vw neighbors place
I stopped just in time as the wheel detached from the drum and sat luckily upright under the f'glass body as not to crash down into the road
a little scary I must say 😬
found the nuts up the street got it going again, got it home and studs n nuts outta there
haven't had the same problem with the wheel bolts..
still a little paranoid tho 🤪

No they are not legal and they are not safe. The stud can come loose and sometimes gets stuck in the nut and can come out of propper engagement in the drum and then strip the threads. All proper studs have a head on the back that can not pull through the threads under any circumstances.

HappyDaze wrote:Wide 5 studs are M12, those are M14. You would need to re-tap the drums and make sure you had 20 studs, not 16.

You can get step studs, but the other way though.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20-WHEEL-STUDS-FOR-OLDER-VWs-CONVERTS-14X1-5mm-TO-12X1-5mm-38mm-ADAPTOR-KIT-/110979011899?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d6dd553b

I'm with Matt, I wouldn't trust those one bit.
I wouldn't use anything without a shoulder on the back to stop them undoing.

Brakes can get pretty toasty which weakens the loctite over time till eventually it lets go, I;ve seen a few of those unscrew out with the wheel nuts.

Normal wheel bolts are not that bad. I just do one pretty much the whole way then rotate the drum around till I can slip the second in and so on.
Was difficult the first time until I figured that way out.

Joel wrote:

HappyDaze wrote:Wide 5 studs are M12, those are M14. You would need to re-tap the drums and make sure you had 20 studs, not 16.

You can get step studs, but the other way though.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20-WHEEL-STUDS-FOR-OLDER-VWs-CONVERTS-14X1-5mm-TO-12X1-5mm-38mm-ADAPTOR-KIT-/110979011899?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d6dd553b

I'm with Matt, I wouldn't trust those one bit.
I wouldn't use anything without a shoulder on the back to stop them undoing.

Brakes can get pretty toasty which weakens the loctite over time till eventually it lets go, I;ve seen a few of those unscrew out with the wheel nuts.

Those studs seem arse-about to me.❗

I wouldn't use studs without a shoulder either, particularly ones that are plated - hydrogen embrittlement worries.

If the stud has a full thread engagement in the drum or rotor and the stud is a equal grade as the original bolt then there would be no difference with the load that they will handle, you can get grades of loctite that will not get affected by the heat, i have had to remove this type of stud that had been on the car for several years that was fitted using super retaining compound and they took some shifting, as for the legallity i have no idea but there are plenty of wheel places selling this type of stud, the best type to use as stated are the shoulded studs, but are these legal if they are from the after market as well. the other issue with the screw in stud is the material that the are screwing into, cast iron, not exactly a high tensile material, you should always torque your wheel studs.

You could always contact Richard Holzl since he is the seller of the wheel studs..maybe he can tell you where he sources them from,The type of material they are made from etc.
He would probably be more qualified to answer any questions or queries regarding these studs than anyone commenting here..😎

snitz wrote:You could always contact Richard Holzl since he is the seller of the wheel studs..maybe he can tell you where he sources them from,The type of material they are made from etc.
He would probably be more qualified to answer any questions or queries regarding these studs than anyone commenting here..😎

Well said.

Hi

I've used similar in the past, only I used high tensile steel M14 rod that I had parted off to the correct length, never had a issue.

Steve

matberry wrote:No they are not legal and they are not safe. The stud can come loose and sometimes gets stuck in the nut and can come out of propper engagement in the drum and then strip the threads. All proper studs have a head on the back that can not pull through the threads under any circumstances.

press in studs.

Blank drums fitted with press in studs would be legal, so why not do it that way?

Any engineered vehicle using billet axles and new press in studs is the way to pass VSB14.

matberry wrote:No they are not legal and they are not safe. The stud can come loose and sometimes gets stuck in the nut and can come out of propper engagement in the drum and then strip the threads. All proper studs have a head on the back that can not pull through the threads under any circumstances.

This is what I was thinking but wanted the verdict from those with more experience.

helbus wrote:Blank drums fitted with press in studs would be legal, so why not do it that way?

Any engineered vehicle using billet axles and new press in studs is the way to pass VSB14.

Hmm, what is the minimum thickness of steel and aluminium that a press in stud can be installed in?

snitz wrote:You could always contact Richard Holzl since he is the seller of the wheel studs..maybe he can tell you where he sources them from,The type of material they are made from etc.
He would probably be more qualified to answer any questions or queries regarding these studs than anyone commenting here..😎

No offence but I generally find those selling an item will only sing it's praises as they wish to make a sale.

It's like asking someone at Harvey Norman a question about an item. They just want your wonga 🙂

I just measured 10 axles and the flange was between 9.58 and 10.36mm.

I assume if the manufacturer of the above mentioned axles was able to sell about 5 million vehicles with 2 per vehicle, then those thickness's would be within specifications. Especially suitable for a Beetle considering the above mentioned are vehicles weighing up to 1400kg and have up to 280hp engines.

Hi

These are sold by Nice products, they sell thousands of studs and nuts, maybe contact them. http://www.niceproducts.com.au/

Steve

Cool. Thanks for the replies guys 🙂

i used these ones with no problem. i used lock tight when i put them in and thats where they stayed till i changed stud pattern 3 or 4 years later. all the problems matt mentioned can also happen with the stock bolts might i point out.

barls wrote:the problems matt mentioned can also happen with the stock bolts might i point out.

I don't think so.
The stud can unknowingly work it's way into the nut upon removal/reinstallation and so not continuue to have 1.5xD thread engagement, therefore raising the chance of stripping the thread. Stock bolt always has enough thread (if used with the factory wheel) and factory studs have a head on the back so they definately can't move either.

psimitar wrote:Just wondering if this is ADR compliant?

Next to nothing aftermarket is ADR complient

I would have thought to call Richard and talk to him would have been the best option

and yes, I am running these 👍

Bizarre wrote:

psimitar wrote:Just wondering if this is ADR compliant?

Next to nothing aftermarket is ADR complient

I would have thought to call Richard and talk to him would have been the best option

and yes, I am running these 👍

Well I suppose the more correct question then is 'would these be signed off by an engineer?'

I've seen them used on CSP products and they are the much better TUV approval but do admit I prefer the security of the press in studs. Tho the CSP use shouldered studs and are torqued to 34lbft. Down side to press in is having to allow that extra few mm clearance for the stud head.