1915 to 2110?

Hi Everyone,

I've been running the same engine for 10 years. I really need to get new pistons and rings and fix an oil leak. But that's all a bit boring.

Since I have 48 IDAs and a 1 5/8 berg exhaust and recently some CB 44 x 37 wedgeports I thought a bit of stroker action would help the air speed.

I'm thinking of adding a 76mm DRP crank and wiseco B pistons.

I have CB super race H beam rods which will reduce the case clearancing (apparently). I'll probably have to get the cylinders machined down (I think). What else? I've never built a stroker before.

What do y'all think?

Happy New Year.

CT

Hi CT
Can't believe you have had no responses?
Must be the time of the year.
If you can go bigger, do it.
Nothing beats cubes so, go the cubes where ever possible.
With cubes you can go mild with a good result or wild with a great result.
Having seen the quality of your car,on the couple of occasions we met, I'm sure this will spill over into your motor department .
I think the cam will be the most important factor in your equation as all the other components are sound.
Wish you luck.
Regards from Rene' in Adelaide
' the capital of speed cameras'

I'd definately do it, hell, why stop at 76? DPR aslo do a nice 78, still nice and strong, with mild clearancing, bigger will make those heads work better, you probably wont even need to machine the barrels with 78, but likely with 76.

Jeez ct, where the hell you been?

After watching Rene's footage over & over & over & over more cubes seem the way to go. Why stop at a 2110cc, why not bigger?

Laters

Got to be a good thing; even if outright power doesn't change the torque should be greater

Hi Everyone,

Call me captain conservative, but I don't want to do a "big build". I just want to evolve the combination of bits I've got. It's more like a hobby. I want to keep the same engine number that's on the engineer's certificate and not go too far beyond the original build.

I'm going to stick with the K8 for now even though I think it runs out of puff too soon. That way I'm not changing too many things at once so I know the effect of the changes. Besides I enjoy driving the oval to work occasionally and doing the odd road trip. I don't want to have a trailer queen.

Hi Rene,
I love the Legend Of The Lakes Hillclimbe video from inside your car. God it's quick. Your driving is great. I can't believe you go so hard with so much scenery to hit. Helmets off to you. I'd hate to drive your car because I'd probably get a taste of the horsepower and want the same.

Hi Chris,
Where have I been? I've been spending time with my baby girl instead of my oval. I can't give up the track days though. I bought a WRX as a daily driver. I took it to the track and realised it won't stop or turn. I fitted ADVAN Neovas and AP Racing brakes on the front so it now stops and it's 0.2 seconds quicker than the beetle around Wakefield but it's not fun to drive. It might get some swaybars but I didn't want to modify it. It's actually made me really appreciate the way the oval stops and turns.

It's hard to get into the VW at 4:45am and head to wakefield with the IDAs and race seat. But it's nice to hop in the Scooby with cruise, climate control, stereo and cup holders.

Hi Matt,
I think you've talked me into the 78mm. I don't mind a little clearancing if it's going to be less work than shortening the cylinders. Thanks for your advice.

Hi Sander,
I imagine the proposed combination will provide a big jump in HP and not just torque.

I've got to keep the Beetle faster than the WRX. It was faster than the stock WRX which has 190kW. That's the other reason for the change. I'm now used to horsepower and the beetle just makes noise not power.

Regards

CT

congrats on the liitle girl ct..

2165-76cc sweet 🙂

Have a good rumage through Larrys shed mate there,s a good K10 and a Pauter cam that might be to your liking.

Thay are both run in and only used on Sunday drives, LOL.

Larrys the man CT. 👍👍👍

Cheers Col

Hi again CT
The K8 is a good old faithful conservative cam with a lot of reliability thrown in.
Don't worry about running out of puff early, just change gear, and keep charging on.
Mentioning.... 'trailer queen' means K8 longevity is required.
The added stroke will give you added torque, which makes for easier, less tiresome driving,,, both on the track or the odd day you drive the vehicle to work.
If not already with the 48IDA's, pair of 48 IDF's will make the vehicle more palatable to drive.
I only use 48IDF carburettors with reasonable results and no mods to the rear bonnet is required.
I did take in that you did not want to spend any more,,,and wanted to use what you have in the shed.
I know the the end result of accumulating and collecting stuff.
You end up with a shed full of stuff that you may use one day!
Anyhow it appears that you have enough good stuff to produce a motor that you will be happy with,without braking the bank.
Regards Rene'

Was talking to larry on Thursday CT.
He also mentioned a Web Cam 86c in his shed of thrills👍.
He agrees with me though, K8 a little conservative.

Cheers Col

Hi Rene,

I change carbys more than I change underwear. I've got a nice set of 44 IDFs which I can use instead of the IDAs. What true VW enthusiast doesn't have shed full of bits? I'm starting to think the K8 might be a good paper weight. It is too conservative.

Hi Colin,

I'll talk to Larry this week and see what he has in his shed.

I'm looking forward to some garage therapy. I might do it after the Sydney Drags and before the VW Nationals.

Regards
CT

Yep. Tame cams are for kombis 😂

CT

if you're not using that cam again, is it worth re using the original case?? It's seen some big temperatures and rpm at times from memory?? Maybe leave it as a short block cause it's still fresh on the bearings from last cam change yeah?........same old story, is it worth risking failure to save the $800 for a new one. No reason why a new case cant have the same number stamped on it 😉

Are those rods in the current engine?

What are your thoughts on RPM range to aim for with the new stroker........some memory of you being at previous max RPM early on the Eastern creek straight as it was.

.......when it's time to run in the new cam i have the tool to remove the inner springs with the motor in car for you too ❗

Dont stop in the middle, throw in a FK87 ! Probably need to cut new set of pushrods to length too?



Sould make good HP with those heads for sure.......need some rpm tho

P.S Did I ever suggest a five speed would suit you and the ovals adventures perfectly 😘

Hi CT

Cams are a little like oils and religion.
We all have our ideas and views on which is the right one but never the twain shal meet.
Cams are a bit of a personal choice and I'm sure you'lle make the right decision.
As for the crankcase, it's had it heat cycles and is stable, and as long as it measures up Ok, with no cracks, why not use it.

Regards Rene'

CT , I am not one to give any advice as I can't drive for shit , however I think that the Wedgeport heads are way too big for your new engine combination . Here are the spec's on an engine that I have built for my own car , dyno'd it and have done almost 1500 km's in the past 2 months . This engine is installed into my '76 bug that Alison drives every day , has a 3.88 diff with a .82 top gear and 17" wheels that are 1" larger in diameter than a stock wheel . The car can be driven @ 50 km/h in 4th gear and can accelerate to 160 km/h on a freeway onramp before even getting on the freeway . I presume it is reving to around 7000 and is really smooth to drive at low speed . The engine produced 137 HP and 206 ft/lb's @ the wheels and will be now marketed on my website as 'the ultimate street engine' . The engine does not get hot , does not need an external oil cooler , has minimal induction noise , is very quiet on the exhaust side and has a light clutch . I was always told by my father that the two things that most people do wrong is over cam and over carb an engine . I have built many engines and this is by far the most surprising engine to date ,
82 x 94mm - 2276cc
CNC round port heads with 42 x 37.5 valves and dual springs
FK 43 cam 383 lift and 250 dur. @ .050 , 280 running duration
1.4 pro rockers
9.05:1 compression
.050 deck height
48mm Dellorto's with matched off-set manifolds
1 5/8" sidewinder with custom tail pipe
Magnaspark ignition kit

On the same day I tuned another engine for a customer that was larger in capacity-2387 cc, larger cam-C95 , bigger CNC heads - oval port, more compression-9.53 and smaller carbs-44idf's . This engine made 4 HP and 2 ft/lb's of torque more than my own engine . Why , I have no idea . Both engines were tuned 1 hr apart and I think that my own 2276cc engine is a better combination due to airspeed and cylinder compression . I am now a lover of the smaller cams , smaller heads and the decrease in induction noise and the increase in drivablilty . You are welcome to drive this car so you can get an idea of how it drives and maybe this will help you decide on your new combo , ROD.

Yes I would agree the wedge port is too big.
Those ports coupled with 9000rpm are for a racing engine.

The CB Pro Gas class in the US uses these heads with just
good manifolds, a flycut for compression and
front runners with 2300cc+or- engines make about 230 at the wheels...at over 8000rpm.

Both the mini wedge and superpro have more cfm per port volume.
I also think a 42 valve is more than enough(shame they dont make those with a 40 valve!)

so what would be the go with the wedge ports? can they be used to there potential with a combo of cam and carbs or are we limiting ourselves to a "driveable" combo? just questions?

Hi CT
The wedge port heads are a little wasted on the motor but as you want to use what you have,
just cam the motor to suit your driving application and don't get to wrapped up in marketing jargon,
big lifts and long durations bla bla bla.
Leave that for the yanks, they just love it.
I have a 2232cc street Karmann Ghia ( yes I am aware it is a little larger in capacity than what has been
talked about but you will see
where this is going... ) with 44/38 wedge ports twin 44IDF Carbies and an old CB 4062 Super Torquer
cam (which have not been made for 15 years), close ratio four speed.
It runs out of puff at 5,500 rpm (that's when you change into another gear )where it makes 150 HP.
Where I am going with this is,,,,, the motor pulls like Texan whore from 1,400RPM, idles like a standard motor,
drives smooth as a stock Volkswagen, BUT, it would take something special to out a accelerate off the lights or up a hill.
It does all this without much fuss.
How cool is that,,,, squeeze the throttle at any RPM and bugger me it goes hard.
Shit!..... beats waiting for that ferking cam to come in and,,,,,,,, bugger me,,, I'm still waiting ,,,,,and WOW 165 HP @ 6000 RPM
all happening right at the end of Punt road.
Noisy, Busy, most of all,,,, ferking tiresome!!
You're probably already buggered from the little one keeping you up, work pressures and to top it off,a non responsive noisy car.
I don't think so,,that's got whiskers on it!
Where was I going with this,,,,wedge port with big valves that you already have will do the job with a smaller cam.
As Rodney suggested, don't ever over cam a motor, especially if you want to stick the little one (congratulations) in the back for a
Sunday drive with your wife.
Happy choice making.
Regards from Rene' in the nanny state

Hi All,

This post is turning into a good read. Thanks Rod, Rene and Dave and others for contributing.

I've always thought my car was easy to drive. The W130 was a bit rich around 2700 rpm but you could drive around it easily. The IDAs are way too big for the current motor but I don't find them all that different to the 44 IDFs since the vents are only 1 mm bigger. They actually idle better. So if I push it too far for the street I'll learn a lesson.

I think Rod's engine and even Rene's sound a bit too street-oriented than what I'm after. To date my engine has never cracked 100 HP at the wheels due to the pissy min-D port DRD / aircooled.net level 5 heads which were disappointingly conservative.

There's plenty of room for some more mongrel in the engine bay. I'm after 150+ horsepower at the treads. I want the thing to make good horsepower at 7500 rpm so I can hold it in third up and down the hill at Wakefield park and then drop it into second at the fishook and coming on to the straight and leave a pair of black lines. The gearbox has Albins gears and a ZF LSD. 1:12s at Wakefield and low 13 second quarters would be nice.

Here's how the current plan looks:
2165cc
78mm crank
Stock length H beam rods
Engle K10
10.5:1 CR
New 94mm mahle pistons and cylinders
44 x 37 wedgeports (Not ultra wedgeports) 50cc
44IDFs with big beefy manifolds. The IDAs might go on later when I sort out the manifolds.
1 5/8 exhaust
Maybe a breather tapped into the top of the case instead of the rocker covers???

The wedgies are massive compared to the mini D ports. I'm surprised Dave says they won't work. I must admit looking at CB's product range they actually look middle of the road. I suppose the competition eliminators, superflos etc would be overkill. But then again the yanks seem to think bigger is always better and they let the sales pitch take over.

Who is using wedgeports successfully on a similar sized engine?

I'll keep Halle out of the beetle as I wouldn't want the webers to damage her hearing.

Opinions on the proposed combination are welcome.

Cheers everyone 🙂

Hey ct speak to dave butler about heads and port sizes we did a fair bit of research on the heads for my 2276 and we found that the mini wedge ports were the best as the airspeed is quite high i think the 44mm valve would be a bit of over kill and you would lose a lot of bottom end i would even go for a good set of heads with a 40mm vavle my old berg heads almost out flowed the wedge ports just a thought..

D.B.... How did the v26 go in the red bug with the ally cylinders with the similar cc C.T is aiming for ?

Yes Craig Torrens has the Wedgies and big cam yet still well drivable after a run with him during a visit to his lair last nationals

As per Stevies post above....jeffs hellbug had a set of purpose built berg heads built with hillclimb needs in mind, and as such measures to keep airspeed going... Although large, they are not like the wide open drag orientated head ports you would have seen at the time, nor those currently available.

Hi CT
Wouldn't lend ,give, buy,steal or touch the K10 and certainly not a used one.
It has fast ramp rates,bad harmonics and is aggressive on the valve train, not forgetting your origional objective.
Power and reiability.
Bit of an old tested,tried formula,' but we all love old school stuff'.
I would use a silky smooth FK87, as it is easy on the valve train which will result in reliability and longevity.
The FK87 will allow you to maintain power in the mid to higher rev range with less detriment to the seats , valves, springs, cam followers, cam tunnels and rockers being pounded to death in an unacceptable time.
Leave that second hand K10 lump stick for someone else's paper weight in their garage!
We all mean well.
Regards from Rene' living in the over regulated state.

Beat me to it Rene,was going to say fk87 too especialy if you want to make power to 7500,and yes I have read fk10 is aggressive and fk 89 is smoother again.keep the wedgies and put those bitching Ida's on 🙂 happy times! Low 13's and wow did anyone see that beetle do 1:12's @ Wakefield!!!!!!!

Ha ha.... Stoked not to be making the decisions you're up for Mr C.T 😁

D.B more to add re you're flow bench findings around different valve sizes with steve....? My heads still spinning from our chin wags about this time last year on the subject

My old 2332 running a tweaked Scat nonwelded 043 and FK87 9.7 CR and IDA's made 141 rwhp. We later swaped out the cam to GB310, slightly down on hp but made for a smoother bottom end. For the bigger wedge ports, I'd up the cam probably, really depends on how high a CR your going to go for. Higher comp and some ceramic coatings so you still maintain cooler temps.

Decisions, decisions,,,,,,,,,, decisions

Just wish I was as popular as the FK87 and CT !

Regards Rene'

air speed, cylinder filling, swirl and squish! surely any cylinder head within reason can be made to work with the right cam and induction. do we just stick to tradition or are some of the new players like JPM worth following?

I am interested in the wedge ports being to big?

My 1999cc runs wedge ports, and a milder cam and makes resonable power (130 rw hp)? I know its the sum of the parts, not what each part is....

I run the wedge ports on my 2332 cc in my green car. It has 48 idfs with 40 vents, k8 running 1.4:1 rockers, 1 3/4 exhaust, I find it to be very drivable ( my wife drives it no problem even with very tall 1 st gear a a 4 puck clutch) but still makes 172 hp at the wheels at just over 6000 rpm. But it does have quite high compression @ 12.1 :1 as I run it on e85. I love the heads as I just run them as bought out the box. I'm building another engine(2175) with a set on for my wife's oval also with k8 , 1.4s, 48 Ida's but lower compression.
Cheers Adam

debiasi4 wrote:I run the wedge ports on my 2332 cc in my green car. It has 48 idfs with 40 vents, k8 running 1.4:1 rockers, 1 3/4 exhaust, I find it to be very drivable ( my wife drives it no problem even with very tall 1 st gear a a 4 puck clutch) but still makes 172 hp at the wheels at just over 6000 rpm. But it does have quite high compression @ 12.1 :1 as I run it on e85. I love the heads as I just run them as bought out the box. I'm building another engine(2175) with a set on for my wife's oval also with k8 , 1.4s, 48 Ida's but lower compression.
Cheers Adam

thanx for the info. great HP.

Do committees ever design anything good?

Rene, Matt, Colin and others have me thinking FK87.

Here's the combo update. I can still liquid paper it out and change it.
2165cc
78mm crank
Stock length H beam rods
Engle K87
10.5:1 CR
New 94mm mahle pistons and cylinders
44 x 37 wedgeports (Not ultra wedgeports) 50cc
48IDAs on short manifolds.
1 5/8 exhaust

Hey Adam,

Are you talking about your current hillclimb car? The one from the Legend of the Lakes Hillclimb?

I saw your old orange hillclimb beetle at Valla one year. I will never forget it. It was off-tap. It went hard. What a weapon. I remember you saying it had a K8 in it. I've always wondered about that. I've never seen any other K8 engine go like that! Mine certainly doesn't. Do you change the cam timing or do something special. If my car went like that I wouldn't relegate the K8 to an iPad weight.


CYA CT

I think the combo can work well IMO

Yeah that's my current green car. I did try a fk87 in that engine. That was when I had lower compression as I was doing Tarmac rally's at the time. It made a couple more hp but had less down low, which I need as my car is heavy. I've been thinking about putting a bit more cam in it now I'm not doing the rally's and I think it would work well with the higher compression.
The orange car was set as per the cam timing card. But had a great set of Henry spicak heads which made great hp. 130 hp at the wheels from a 1915 cc
Cheers Adam

debiasi4 wrote:Yeah that's my current green car. I did try a fk87 in that engine. That was when I had lower compression as I was doing Tarmac rally's at the time. It made a couple more hp but had less down low, which I need as my car is heavy. I've been thinking about putting a bit more cam in it now I'm not doing the rally's and I think it would work well with the higher compression.
The orange car was set as per the cam timing card. But had a great set of Henry spicak heads which made great hp. 130 hp at the wheels from a 1915 cc
Cheers Adam

Hey Adam, we think u should put a camera inside your car so we can watch the mental driving from in there too🙂

fullnoise wrote:Here's the combo update. I can still liquid paper it out and change it.
2165cc
78mm crank
Stock length H beam rods
Engle K87
10.5:1 CR
New 94mm mahle pistons and cylinders
44 x 37 wedgeports (Not ultra wedgeports) 50cc
48IDAs on short manifolds.
1 5/8 exhaust

if you're thinking about using the fk87 maybe use a longer rod to keep piston speed down and less friction/load on the sidewall of the barrel.......and use a JE or wiseco piston with the 1mm top ring to help stop ring flutter in the higher rpm range.

fullnoise wrote:Do committees ever design anything good?

Rene, Matt, Colin and others have me thinking FK87.

Here's the combo update. I can still liquid paper it out and change it.
2165cc
78mm crank
Stock length H beam rods
Engle K87
10.5:1 CR
New 94mm mahle pistons and cylinders
44 x 37 wedgeports (Not ultra wedgeports) 50cc
48IDAs on short manifolds.
1 5/8 exhaust

Hey Adam,

Are you talking about your current hillclimb car? The one from the Legend of the Lakes Hillclimb?

I saw your old orange hillclimb beetle at Valla one year. I will never forget it. It was off-tap. It went hard. What a weapon. I remember you saying it had a K8 in it. I've always wondered about that. I've never seen any other K8 engine go like that! Mine certainly doesn't. Do you change the cam timing or do something special. If my car went like that I wouldn't relegate the K8 to an iPad weight.


CYA CT

I have been reading this post with great interest.
There are some excellent thought well worth considering.
Rod, that's motor sounds like a sweet street engine I reckon my wife would love driving that, congrats on a great build.
I like we're your going with the above Combo CT. my I suggest wiseco pistons they are so pretty.
Also 40mm vents with the IDA,s will give you nice punch in the mid range with the
Fk87. You will have to measure the total lift with the rockers on before a final decision is made with cam as it may calculate out more than the advertised lift on the cam card. I know my cam measured 610 with my heads and rockers.
It,s so nice to read a post about a very touchy subject and no-one is slagging on anyone but just trying to help out, maybe the yanks should read this post.

Ps,
On holidays at the moment loving it.


Cheers
Col

colin wrote:It,s so nice to read a post about a very touchy subject and no-one is slagging on anyone but just trying to help out, maybe the yanks should read this post.




Cheers
Col

Yeah the only person wanting to have a stroke is CT!!!! 😂😂😂

CT , I would go with the larger 80mm or 82mm crank as when you get up to these sizes , the cranks are all the same price . If you are worried that the engine will be too wide , The 82mm stroke with 5.4" rods will require a .060 shim to obtain about a good 1.25mm deck height . With the heads you have you will have to drop about 11 cc out of the chamber by removing around 3mm from the seating surface to obtain a compression ratio of 10.0 . Therefore the engine is a little narrower than std . The FK 87 cam is really good , however with a 1.4 rocker you will be giving the springs a real hard time . You will have to up-grade the springs to something like the Bugpack or the CB 650's . I had Pauter do a cam for me that was an FK 87 spec , but on 104 centres , pulls real hard in my circut engine . The 78mm stroke and 5.4 rods will cause you to either deck the case a lot or shorten the barrels to get a tight deck . The wedgeports would be more suited to a bigger capacity , however once you start talking 150 + @ the tyres , you are now getting close . Dont expect it to drive like the engine you have now because it will need a heavier clutch , larger exhaust maybe and a good external cooler for the oil . You will have to concider trying to get more air into the engine bay as well . I would drop the Mahles off the list as well , ROD.

dangerous wrote:Yes I would agree the wedge port is too big.
Those ports coupled with 9000rpm are for a racing engine.

The CB Pro Gas class in the US uses these heads with just
good manifolds, a flycut for compression and

Dave, you mentioned 'good manifolds'.......are they not using the big beef ones that are matched to the heads from CB ?

Hee hee....now you need better pistons, longer rods, heavier springs and larger exhaust And a range of venturi's to move the delivery around

Pushrods to match the decked case or shortened barrels, new clutch, bigger pressure plate.....

Wedgemating.... Titanium..... Udo becker

Which bits do you already have CT?

...... All because a little bug went ca-choo!

hellbugged wrote:Hee hee....now you need better pistons, longer rods, heavier springs and larger exhaust And a range of venturi's to move the delivery around

Pushrods to match the decked case or shortened barrels, new clutch, bigger pressure plate.....

Wedgemating.... Titanium..... Udo becker

Which bits do you already have CT?

...... All because a little bug went ca-choo!

Yep

What you plan to do and what you end up doing ... 2 totally different things (in my experience anyhow)

Craig Torrens wrote:

dangerous wrote:Yes I would agree the wedge port is too big.
Those ports coupled with 9000rpm are for a racing engine.

The CB Pro Gas class in the US uses these heads with just
good manifolds, a flycut for compression and

Dave, you mentioned 'good manifolds'.......are they not using the big beef ones that are matched to the heads from CB ?

Even the match ported manifolds are a restriction.
Rule of thumb is a gradual taper(in cross section)
from the throttle to seat throat.
The seat throat being the ideal place for the minimum-area-point.

If the minimum cross section is in the manifold,
the engine will be limited by this size.
(hence the peak power rpm with wedgies mostly between 5500 and 6500) depending on many things.
(you can fuge it with variuos factors though)

But more importantly, as the charge enters the head,
the large cross section and chamber causes a reduced air speed, meaning you have less cylinder fill than if the same minimum area was at the seat throat in an ideal situation.

This is why some small valve engines go surprisingly well.
The seat throat is smaller than most manifolds out of the box.
...and by chance you get increased air speed as the charge makes its journey

The truth is that even a 1600 with autocraft heads will still run well, with the correct tuning and cam choice.

But better, would be matching a minimum cross section within the valve seat
for your desired power-peak-rpm for your engine size,
and then build in the gradual taper(porting) from throttle to valve seat (and in the chamber to!)
which will give a much more rewarding result.

Yep, realise all that......so what manifolds are they using ?

Are they reworking the big beef or are they using a completely different manifold to start with?

Craig, IMO and the way I read what Dave has said is those supplied manifolds either need work or replacement

Hi CT, what a very interesting read. I love it. I think a big banger VW engine in your car would be tops. Congrats in advance for the build. In relation to cams/engine combo. Choose a cam / combo which best suits your driving style and what your car is going to be used for with whats going to give you the best reliability. Especially if you are still going to drive it to the track, work, shopping etc.

could always get the flow figure for the heads and manifolds etc... and get a custom grind cam; Ivan Tighe has this service I'm sure

http://www.tighecams.com.au/

so maybe a set of custom westside manifolds with the wedgeports?

^^ done something similar on a race build.

I wouldn't go 82 as the price may be the same but is the longevety, bigger than 78 needs type 4 centre main/s IMO

I prefer 78mm over 82mm because it sounds a hell of a lot easier to build. Would it also be more revy? Or do the other components like rod length (longer) and cam / head combo have more influence over how many revs it pulls?

Thanks for the measurements Rod. My case has been decked. I think I'd do a trial fit with the super race rods i bought from you and see what the deck height is. I may choose a longer rod then.

As for the oil system. Well. I had to draw a diagram to keep track of it. If my memory serves me correctly the oil leaves the engine out the back of the oil pump. It goes to a JayCee filter bypass above the gearbox. Over pressured oil gets directed back into the side of the Pobjoy sump. The other oil, at 80 psi max, is pumped past the rear torsion bars and under the passenger side running board. Then it goes up the front into a half size messy cooler (or is it Messa?) which is mounted at a 15 degree angle under the fuel tank where the master cylinder would sit if it were on the left. It gets direct air under the apron and between the torsion bar and doesn't seem to get hit by rocks or gutters or bent by flexing components. Then it journey's back to the engine eventually. It's too complicated and needs a spare full flow pump with a drill mounted to it to prime. Maybe the JayCee bypass needs to be mounted lower. Somewhere like of the #4 header studs.

Where was I? Oh yeah.

I have a nice Exedy clutch pressure plate (It's painted purple where nobody can see it!) and my exhaust has always been bigger than I need. The headers are classic berg 1 5/8 ceramic coated and the muffler is 2 1/2 inches by West Side Mufflers. Both will suit the proposed combo better than the current one.

No need to sell the first born for extra parts yet Daimo.

I've seen how the big beefy manifolds are ported an inch from the bottom into the manifold and then the porting stops. Both my IDF an IDA manifolds I've had welded up so I could port them myself to ensure they were a funnel to the port. I'm considering getting a serious weld job done on the short Scat Trak manifolds I have now in order to make them work with the wedgies. If I was cheque book racing I'd buy some CSP short manifolds.

Speaking of Ivan Tighe. I might get him to regrind some standard lifters for the FK87. That's always worked for me. Are people still having problems with new lifters?

Tell me some more about ring flutter Craig. What RPM would that become and issue? Are there any telltale signs? Would Wisecos solve the problem as opposed to Mahles?

What's a good flywheel weight? Anyone? I'll have to get a new one. I think my Sabadusi crank has quite a unique dowel pattern.

Thanks again everyone for all your comments.

CYA CT

in regards to the lifters ct the cb lightweight are supposed to very good, right taper and compatibility with not just cb cams....no need to spend big$$ on uber "udo"beckers "daimo, lol..." stan told me they are a great lifter.....

Dave Butler did a real nice job for me on a flywheel CT.
He is the man for any machine work.
As far as revving is conserved Jeff Unwin had a 78mm crank engine that winked at 9000rpm.

Cheers Col

fullnoise wrote:I've seen how the big beefy manifolds are ported an inch from the bottom into the manifold and then the porting stops.

Speaking of Ivan Tighe. I might get him to regrind some standard lifters for the FK87. That's always worked for me. Are people still having problems with new lifters?

Tell me some more about ring flutter Craig. What RPM would that become and issue? Are there any telltale signs? Would Wisecos solve the problem as opposed to Mahles?

CT, have you tried the wedgeports on your current engine combo ? Nathan Abbott had a 25-30hp jump on his motor when the wedgies were installed, and his motor was around the same HP as yours currently is.

re the big beef manifolds:
I have 3 sets from CB (to match my sets of Wedgeports) and 2 have been fully CNC ported ALL the way through while 1 set was just match ported. The 2 that have been CNC ported are obviously a lot bigger through the middle than the 'matched only' ones....Clearly they don't all leave CB looking the same.

Re the lifters: IMO don't use a cam ground on a SC1 billet....it will kill lifters. Use a Ep12 CWC billet with the tighe or CB lightweight lifters. All the CWC cams I've used haven't given any probs........ALL the SC1 cams (regardless of lifter brand) I have used have chewed the lifters.

Ring Flutter: This can occur with high piston speeds (large stroke/short rods).......so it really depends on your rod ratio as to how high your piston speed is at a certain engine rpm. There's heaps of info and out there so do a google search and have a good read.
Wiseco and JE have an option of a 1mm top ring, so that is a step forward in helping with the problem.

Here is an article from Total Seal, so maybe they have a ring option for the Mahles ??

http://dragracingonline.com/technical/vii_9-pistonrings-1.html

I'm no expert, but I hope it all helps !

My .02 Nz pesos... I ran a 2442 with ultra wedgies and an fk87. Compression was at 10.5:1, pump gas, 32 degrees total advance, no issues. With the big stroke it didn't need revving ( changing at 6500) and made the on or off cam feeling almost non existent. This combo made an honest 200 hp, no orange county factor involved. The longer stroke is definitely hard on the centre main, but the torque is awesome !

On clutches, I ran a stage 1 and darken disc and was running 1.6 60 foots with this, full weight oval with a back seat, and I'm 115kgs so not lightweight in anyway. Your experience may vary !!

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm looking forward to the build. It should be far more exciting than adding a relay to the starter motor circuit which I just did. I should have done that years ago.

Happy Australia Day.

CT

fullnoise wrote:Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm looking forward to the build. It should be far more exciting than adding a relay to the starter motor circuit which I just did. I should have done that years ago.

Happy Australia Day.

CT

Cheers legend,
or should i say Dad, now thats nice, the first time they say dadda, cool as. 👍

Cheers Col

first time they say "go faster daddy" when they're in the back seat is even better 👍

Any updates CT......although I'm sure the little one is sucking up your time !