1995 T5 stalls when coming to a halt

Is anyone familiar with this problem?
My 1995 T5 Transporter often stalls as I come to a halt at intersections etc. It seems to happen more when the engine is hot. Going down through the gears to keep the revs up seems to help but not always. Work done so far to try to isolate the problem includes:- New spark plugs, Checked for air leaks, throttle body cleaned, PCV removed and idle air mixture valve cleaned, rotor button and cap cleaned, basic idle setting carried out.
The engine stalls while the van is in gear and the clutch pedal depressed.
I am wondering if anyone knows if this is a known problem with this model. I hope someone can help as I live in a country town without VW diagnostic equipment.

95 is a T4 not a T5.

Pull out the relay above the fuse panel that has "30" on it. Check for broken solder joints

Thanks. I'll try that and let you know the result.

Check your throttle position switch on the throttle body.

AA003 wrote:Check your throttle position switch on the throttle body.

Thanks. Will do.

11CAB wrote:95 is a T4 not a T5.

Pull out the relay above the fuse panel that has "30" on it. Check for broken solder joints

I looked at the relay but it looks as if it needs a special tool to get into it. I considered prising it open with a small screwdriver but decided against it in case I caused damage and stranded myself. (I'm a complete novice and live 20km's from town).

Re. T4 or T5 - - The van was advertised as a T5 when I bought it two years ago and I had never questioned it. On looking for some identification evidence, both on the van (where the handbook says it should be) and in the documentation, I can find nothing that says either T4 or T5.

That year identifies it as aT4,
google search T4 & look at the images to check,
if your headlights are reasonably straight across , it's called a " short nose"
If they are angled slightly from inner edge to outer edge, it's known as along nose,
T5 are another kettle of fish !

Good luck with sorting your problem
Nath

newghia wrote:That year identifies it as aT4,
google search T4 & look at the images to check,
if your headlights are reasonably straight across , it's called a " short nose"
If they are angled slightly from inner edge to outer edge, it's known as along nose,
T5 are another kettle of fish !

Good luck with sorting your problem
Nath

Cheers! Turns out I'm driving a shortnose T4.

Its easy to pop the cover off the relay with a small screw driver

Yeah they are the ones I've seen the most of here,
I have just got myself a 97 dual cab with the sliding rear windows, very soon to be on the road as my daily / work vehicle,
Nath

30 relay is just a normal power relay, should be changed every 100 000km. Can make a HUGE difference

matberry wrote:30 relay is just a normal power relay, should be changed every 100 000km. Can make a HUGE difference

Hi. As you have probably realised, I am a complete novice. What does the 30 relay actually do? - I have managed to take the cover off it and it seems to be in good order.

No 30 Relay powers up the ECU. When the solder joints crack, it turns the power off to the ECU like you've turned the key off. It doesn't store a fault code, because it thinks you've turned the key off.

It's a power supply relay to the computer amongst other things I believe. A good quality relay under $20

11CAB wrote:No 30 Relay powers up the ECU. When the solder joints crack, it turns the power off to the ECU like you've turned the key off. It doesn't store a fault code, because it thinks you've turned the key off.

Thanks for the feedback. I can see now that the 30 relay might be the cause of the problem.

matberry wrote:It's a power supply relay to the computer amongst other things I believe. A good quality relay under $20

Thanks. The 30 relay sounds like the next posibility to explore.

If it was the ECU relay I think that you would have more problems than stalling.

I've had a rough idle fixed by replacing it.

matberry wrote:I've had a rough idle fixed by replacing it.

I can't really understand that one.

It either works or not. It's just a switch.

Not really, I believe it's about clean power, as the points get pitted/higher resistance it somehow effects the computer. I am not sure why either, but it gave me customer for life, they hd been to VW nd about 6 other specialists and putting up with a rough idle and very poor running at light cruise for 7 years.

so it sounds like a petrol T4 yeah
so erm put in for a service at a reputable VW service place.. 😵‍💫
they should sort your woes

h wrote:so it sounds like a petrol T4 yeah
so erm put in for a service at a reputable VW service place.. 😵‍💫
they should sort your woes

I travelled 111 km's to the nearest VW service place having informed them of the age of the vehicle when making the booking. I was only told when I came to collect the van that they only had diagnostic equipment for recent models and not for the t4. I was charged $644 and the problem was not fixed.

^ that's a familiar story, unfortunatly

I travelled 111 km's to the nearest VW service place having informed them of the age of the vehicle when making the booking. I was only told when I came to collect the van that they only had diagnostic equipment for recent models and not for the t4. I was charged $644 and the problem was not fixed. [/quote]



you no fix.............me no pay😠

donn wrote:I travelled 111 km's to the nearest VW service place having informed them of the age of the vehicle when making the booking. I was only told when I came to collect the van that they only had diagnostic equipment for recent models and not for the t4. I was charged $644 and the problem was not fixed.

you no fix.............me no pay😠 [/quote]

Unfortunately I would have had to stay another day away from home with all the attendant costs and inconvenience... and no guarantee that the problem would be fixed. I signed a form on booking the car in which I suspect said that the van would not be released without the bill being paid first. Anyway after I had hung around all day, all I wanted to do was to get home!

I have sourced and ordered the 30 relay. Will update when I know if it has had the desired effect.
Also while looking under the bonnet to get part numbers for other components I noteced that there is a double aperture in the ring gear housing. The two circular 'holes' are recessed as if they should perhaps have something like a double rubber cap to seal them from dust and grit. At the moment they are open. Anyone know if they should be covered and if so what the part is called?

Yep there's a rubber plug for it. It's taken out to check the timing mark on the flywheel

11CAB wrote:Yep there's a rubber plug for it. It's taken out to check the timing mark on the flywheel

Thanks. Any idea what its called so that I can search for one? I live on a dirt road and grit is likely to get in there

EnPassant wrote:

donn wrote:I travelled 111 km's to the nearest VW service place having informed them of the age of the vehicle when making the booking. I was only told when I came to collect the van that they only had diagnostic equipment for recent models and not for the t4. I was charged $644 and the problem was not fixed.

you no fix.............me no pay😠

Unfortunately I would have had to stay another day away from home with all the attendant costs and inconvenience... and no guarantee that the problem would be fixed. I signed a form on booking the car in which I suspect said that the van would not be released without the bill being paid first. Anyway after I had hung around all day, all I wanted to do was to get home! [/quote]

erm if you have paid for something and it hasn't been fixed take it back and get them to fix it..?
if u forked out $644 for nothing well that doesn't add up..
surely they must have done some work that you agreed to yeah..?
which vw service place is it?
send them an email n get something done about it.. wtf

EnPassant wrote:

11CAB wrote:Yep there's a rubber plug for it. It's taken out to check the timing mark on the flywheel

Thanks. Any idea what its called so that I can search for one? I live on a dirt road and grit is likely to get in there

VW just call it a plug.
Should be 02A301115A

h wrote:erm if you have paid for something and it hasn't been fixed take it back and get them to fix it..?
if u forked out $644 for nothing well that doesn't add up..
surely they must have done some work that you agreed to yeah..?
which vw service place is it?
send them an email n get something done about it.. wtf

Certainly I will be contacting them again (politely) but it is simply not practical for me to drive another 200km round trip, waste a whiole day hanging around while they quite possibly still fail to find the fault and charge me another $130+ per hour for the privelege. (Remember - they told me only after working on the vehicle, that they don't have the diagnostic equipment for older vehicles. This was even though I had told them the age and model of the vehicle when booking it in and stressed that I was travelling to see them because of their advertised diagnostic capabilities). In the meantime it is more practical for me to replace a few parts which I can source relatively cheaply.

11CAB wrote:

EnPassant wrote:

11CAB wrote:Yep there's a rubber plug for it. It's taken out to check the timing mark on the flywheel

Thanks. Any idea what its called so that I can search for one? I live on a dirt road and grit is likely to get in there

VW just call it a plug.
Should be 02A301115A

Thanks. I will check it out. - And thanks again for taking the time to help me solve the stalling issue. I will post updates as I replace the parts which are possible causes of the problem.

11CAB wrote:No 30 Relay powers up the ECU. When the solder joints crack, it turns the power off to the ECU like you've turned the key off. It doesn't store a fault code, because it thinks you've turned the key off.

Hi again. I replaced the 30 relay with a new one but it made no difference so I am waiting on a new Idle Air Control Valve which is my next move. Will post again when it is fitted.

Often a clean can improve the IAC

matberry wrote:Often a clean can improve the IAC

Hi Matberry. That was one of the first things done so now I'm hoping a new one might do the trick!

If its a 2.0L 4cyl motor, replace ALL the vac hose going to the ECU