Just about to kick off on a ground up restoration of a '68 and need some advice on street engine combos from those that have been through it.
My main requirements are:
- Reliability
- I want to maintain the heater boxes
- I dont want to have to standoff the decklid
- Good for driving street and occasional freeway
I was thinking of possibly 1916/2007/2110/2276...
Also, at what point does the stock trans become a no no?
Not concerned with exact buld at the minute, more just want to get a feel for what would actually suit my needs.
Cheers,
Simon
sander288 ·
IMHO your better off with a 1600 with twin carbs and a real mild cam; this would be reliable and also provide good economy and performance, I wouldn't stroke the engine simply because of the hassle and extra cost in sourcing a quality crank
The stock trans becomes a pain when going over 100hp and heaps more torque (IMO) but with most things it depends on how you want to drive it and what condition the stock one is in....
Hope this helps a little
Allbones ·
simohagz wrote:Gents,
Just about to kick off on a ground up restoration of a '68 and need some advice on street engine combos from those that have been through it.
My main requirements are:
- Reliability
- I want to maintain the heater boxes
- I dont want to have to standoff the decklid
- Good for driving street and occasional freeway
I was thinking of possibly 1916/2007/2110/2276...
Also, at what point does the stock trans become a no no?
Not concerned with exact buld at the minute, more just want to get a feel for what would actually suit my needs.
Cheers,
Simon
If the heater boxes need to be retained dont bother with anything bigger than a 1600, the heat (especially when at sustained high revs like on the highway) will crack the heads I believe.
Someone will correct me if I am wrong but I have heard this from a few different sources, one of which being an article from Mark Herbert.
hellbugged ·
Big bore heater boxes are available
There are a few ways to get extra air in the engine bay without popping the lid
You can make any size street friendly
Stock box will handle a fair dose of power with some sensible treatment, however it needs to be in good working order to begin with
simohagz ·
Thanks for the replys so far guys.
My current engine is a 1600TP so really just looking for something with a bit more get up, without causing a bunch of technical issues with trans/heat/cooling etc.
I was thinking a 1916 would suit as fairly mild increase with nice thick walls and should provide a bit more torque..?
simohagz ·
Does anyone have any experience with CBBVW in Sydney.
Looking at their longblock prices and they seem quite competitive.
Also appear to warranty their work which is always nice...
Other option is a Rod Penrose engine.. thoughts?
ian.mezz ·
call Vintage vw sydney 😊
.
ian.mezz ·
or you could buy the motor and adaptor ecm etc out of this bug for about $2490.00
I run a 1916 with dual Dellorto and heater boxes.
I don't prop the engine lid but my lid is a 4 slot.
My engine puts out 70 HP at the wheels.
My car is daily driven and lives outside 24-7
I have heard good things about both the suppliers you have mentioned.
Bang for buck it is hard to go past Rod.
simohagz ·
Thanks Bizarre.
Good to hear that a 1916 can be done with pretty much an otherwise stock setup.
Are you running a stock transmission?
At this stage leaning toward Rod as he seems to have a more significant following of users who can attest to the reliability of his engines.
Havent found anybody yet with a CBB engine..though they are significantly cheaper than Rods longblock...
Joel ·
THere's no text book answer on the gearbox, it depends on the driver more than the engine.
You can break a gearbox with a stock 1600 or like many of us run big HP through them for years with no problems.
My stock gearbox has survived for 13 years and over 100K now with modded engines right up to the 180HP subi in it now and I know of others with more than that without breaking stock gearboxes.
I won't say I go easy on mine but I do drive with *some* mechanical sympathy.
I know I could break it without too much effort.
But on the other hand if you have the chance to get a stronger one built do it.
prevention is better than cure as they say
gordysbeetle ·
I went for a Rod Penrose 2276 with a rebuilt gearbox. Best value for money I could find. Also the cheapest bolt on bits around.
vw54 ·
I run a 1916 fuel injected wit ha C65 cam plenty of grunt when you want nice to cruise and have some fun on the track / drags as well
The injection helps smooth things out as well
running Vintage speed exhaust with big J pipes and heater boxes nice in Sydney on way to work each morning
this question you will get dozens of different answers as well
Where are you located ???
Bizarre ·
If you are getting heater boxes make sure you get the joints flanged
Soooooo....much nicer
The differences in prices would be for a reason.
Rod is pretty competitive with pricing and Mike builds great stuff.
It will be new Vs old case or heads or crank or something not included
and yes - my transmission is stock
vw54 ·
yes flanged exhausts for sure
beetleboyjeff ·
1916 is nice - I have been running them for the last 390,000 km with very few problems.
The first problem I did have was cutting costs by using a used case, and the compression was a little high I think, because I couldn't stop it pinging when it warmed up. The case cracked after 30,000 km.
The next 2 engines got 120,000 km & 135,000 km respectively, and both times it was the 040 heads that went, but I had a new engine (mainly case etc.) built each time.
My current engine has an aluminium case & 044 heads and is running fine at the moment with over 105,000 km on it.
I am a builder and tow a trailer full of tools (and often building materials as well), and drive it fairly hard. It runs twin Kadrons and has an external oil cooler (as well as the stock one) - mainly for when towing the trailer on the highway in summer. I also run stock heater boxes (love them in winter) and Thunderbird (I think) extractors.
I have mainly run a standard transaxle, often 2nd hand, and after doing a diff when trying to tow a bogged truck load of scaffold, I have been running a super diff. Except for losing 2nd gear early on (I think it may have been with my 1600), my main transaxle failures have been reverse, from backing heavy trailers around building sites. :-) I have since had Dangerous build me a transaxle with an early Kombi reverse in it - he reckoned it was the strongest he could do.
For a few years recently I was working away, at one stage in Parkes, and driving home (to Port Macquarie) and back each weekend was about 1,400 km - didn't have a problem - even at times when I brought my tool box trailer home.
I think as long as you choose good quality parts, keep it a little conservative and not overstressed, don't treat it too harshly (I know - I should talk. lol), and most importantly, get it build by a good engine builder who really knows how to make them live, most combinations could do something along the lines of what you want.
Paulc1964au ·
I am happy with the 1776 I am having built hopefully installed in the next few weeks. I chose this size as a nice street engine that is reliable and hopefully a little torque
1916baja ·
Just call rod and be done with it, you can't beat him for the money.... Best value in Australia.
simohagz ·
It seems the difference in Rods to CBBs prices are down to the:
- New case vs used
- ported heads vs standard
- CBB do it on an exchange basis
Only thing is that CBB offer a 12 month 20k warranty on the engine whereas not sure if Rod does similar?
I have spoken with both guys and both were extremely helpful, recommending the 1916 and keep the stock trans.
Will be heading down to the gong to check out Rods builds for sure!
Have to discuss with my old man (build partner) and decide which way to go!
Allbones ·
simohagz wrote:It seems the difference in Rods to CBBs prices are down to the:
- New case vs used
- ported heads vs standard
- CBB do it on an exchange basis
Only thing is that CBB offer a 12 month 20k warranty on the engine whereas not sure if Rod does similar?
I have spoken with both guys and both were extremely helpful, recommending the 1916 and keep the stock trans.
Will be heading down to the gong to check out Rods builds for sure!
Have to discuss with my old man (build partner) and decide which way to go!
If Warrenty is an issue buy Australian. The hassel involved with sending something back to the states for warrenty would be astronimical.
If you require that peace of mind, go with Rod, I would assume that he would offer some sort of warrenty or the like with his engines. He doesnt seem like the sort of bloke who wouldnt stand by his builds.
As said above, for original cutouts to be used, the exhaust has to be a Vintage Speed
As a VW engine builder I have to say, remember there is always some truth to the comment 'you get what you pay for'. I'm not denying that both Rod and Mike offer a very affordable and value for money package, but there are a few engine builders in Oz that go the extra mile. Some of us put a lot of extra time into our builds including many hours massaging and modifying the new and/or old components to get them to a point where we are happy to assemble them to then sell them to our customers. Out of the box components will work, but engines with tighter decks, set up compression ratios, blue-printed bottom ends, balanced rotating assemblies and improved cooling systems will last longer, also details like extra machining work to improve the off-the-shelf parts like cases, heads and valve train all add to the longevety of the product. How many suppliers measure the life of their engines in 100's of thousands of kilometers, and of the recomendations above, how many actually use their engines daily intheir own vehicles There are also some parts that are superior to others so not all direct price comparisons are created equal, I know I even go to the extra effort of initial start-up using a pressurised oiling system, breaking in the cam and tuning the engine prior to delivery.
my 2c
sander288 ·
^^^ true words, a good engine is more than the sum of it's parts for sure!
DakDak67 ·
You can rebuild my 2276 then Matt 😉
vassy66T1 ·
matberry wrote:As said above, for original cutouts to be used, the exhaust has to be a Vintage Speed
As a VW engine builder I have to say, remember there is always some truth to the comment 'you get what you pay for'. I'm not denying that both Rod and Mike offer a very affordable and value for money package, but there are a few engine builders in Oz that go the extra mile. Some of us put a lot of extra time into our builds including many hours massaging and modifying the new and/or old components to get them to a point where we are happy to assemble them to then sell them to our customers. Out of the box components will work, but engines with tighter decks, set up compression ratios, blue-printed bottom ends, balanced rotating assemblies and improved cooling systems will last longer, also details like extra machining work to improve the off-the-shelf parts like cases, heads and valve train all add to the longevety of the product. How many suppliers measure the life of their engines in 100's of thousands of kilometers, and of the recomendations above, how many actually use their engines daily intheir own vehicles There are also some parts that are superior to others so not all direct price comparisons are created equal, I know I even go to the extra effort of initial start-up using a pressurised oiling system, breaking in the cam and tuning the engine prior to delivery.
my 2c
The little stroker in my Single Cab is now heading towards 80,000kms and is sweet as a nut. Matt built it for me and went the extra mile (and the extra $) to make it right.
Matt's engines last in the real world.
My real experience. 👍
simohagz ·
Thanks for the responses guys.
I really appreciate everyone's opinions.
Realistically I am limited by budget, and even stretching from an imported turnkey to an Aussie built engine means something else on the build has to suffer unfortunately.
It would appear there are dozens of people getting around with Rods engines and have run them for many years, and from what I hear he runs his own builds in his cars?
Again, I'm only a new dubber so all the advice is great!
1916baja ·
Yes the imported turn key engines are cheap, but in the long run, by the time you factor in shipping and import duties it would probably cost less to get one of rods motors. Plus he's in Australia for warranty purposes. From what Ive heard you need to be careful what you buy from the states... There has been some disastrous engines come from there.
benny_acko ·
Simohagz - I too am on the Beaches and in a similar boat as I explore my options and research as a relatively new owner of my first bug. This thread is a great source of opinions and info so thanks to all.
As for a stock looking exhaust the Vintagespeed looks amazing and sounds great. matberry has one on his Bluey - I saw and heard it at the VW Nationals and it sounds awesome! There are some videos on youtube of VWs with these exhausts fitted...
simohagz ·
Hi guys, thanks for all the feedback, it has helped a lot.
After doing a lot of calling around, and reading a lot of feedback on the various options, I have decided on one of Rod’s 1916 “signature” builds.
Now that I have the longblock squared away, is there anything in particular I should be including in terms of ancillaries?
I was thinking of possible add ons to your “generic” setup and came up with:
• 1916 longblock
• Magnaspark 2 ignition system
• Remote oil filter
• Deep Sump
• Electric fuel pump
• Oil pressure sensor
• Oil temp sensor
• Vintage speed “heater” peashooter
• Bugpack street max hi flow flanged heater boxes
• Uprated alternator
Can anyone see any issues with any of the items above? Are any of them necessary and a worthwhile upgrade or is it smarter to stick with a more stock setup?
Does anyone run a Vintage Speed exhaust with a 1916? Is it restrictive? I really want the stock look utilizing the cutouts and apart from the A1 sidewinder with peashooter the vintage speed is the only thing I can find tat fits the bill!
Whats the general consensus on Kadrons v Dell’s v Webers? Bearing in mind this is going to be a regularly (weekly) driven car?
Car is being assessed Saturday morning! Can’t wait for the action to begin!
SuperOwen ·
Don't quote but is that vintage speed exhaust flanged? I thought that model clamped onto the j tubes.
sander288 ·
the heater version has options to either clamp onto stock boxes/tubes or flange attach to J tubes or heater boxes.
Shouldn't be restrictive; Remmele Motorsport in Germany has dyno'd a 2.3L with the heater version to 175hp without restriction
Dells make more power but are more tuning and fiddly
Kads less power but generally easier to live with for a daily providing the linkage is either a) set-up correctly or b) replaced with either a berg or CSP linkage
^^^ someone correct me if wrong
Lateral ·
Hi Simon
Here's my 2 cents worth!
I have recently gone through the same exercise as you with trying to figure out how and with whom I was going to spend my hard earned cash as this would be a substantial investment.
After a far bit of looking and phone calling I decided to go down the "Rod Penrose" pathway and have Rod build me a fantastic 2054cc motor. (see attached photos).
The following items/issues were important for me to take into consideration:
1. I spoke to a number of people whose opinions I trust regarding who they would recommend.
2. I wanted a street drivable motor that would drive well in the city or on long trips and not cough, spit and fart at the traffic lights!
3. I spent a far bit of time looking through this forum and others so that I was as educated as possible so that I had some idea of what I wanted.
4. It was important to me that the person who was going to build the motor was approachable and was readily contactable and available to spend time with me so that I understood what was going to happen with the build and what the process involved and wasn't only interested in getting me in and then that was the end of the relationship.
5. I wanted a builder who had an obvious passion for VW's.
6. I also wanted a builder who would stand by their product and if any issues arose that they would jump on them and resolve them.
After a number of phone calls I decided that Rod ticked the boxes.
You have made mention in your posts that you were considering purchasing a motor overseas....I would strongly recommend that you do not do this as you will need to have local support and know that if you have a question, and you will, that all you need to do is make a local call.
I can vouch that I have called Rod on numerous occasions during the week and weekend to ask him questions both before, during and after the motor was completed and he was always available.....this was very important to me. Also, when I had questions relating to parts that I ordered direct from CB Performance in the USA, Rod contacted them on my behalf when he didn't really have to.
Rod is also very upfront and honest and will provide you with as many options as you would like and will take the time to explain the pro's and con's including costs etc so that you are as well informed as possible.
I can also recommend the Vintage Speed exhaust (see attached photo). These are great looking, sound great and fit like a glove. Rod does not sell these. I got mine from Boris from Vintage Vee Dub Supplies.
I am also sure that there are many good motor builders out there but I can honestly say that I absolutely love driving the car.
Simon, I am located in Willoughby if you would like to catch up.....just PM me.
Regards
Greg
simohagz ·
Greg,
Thanks for your comments.
I also have spent considerable time "lurking" about the frums, reading hundreds of posts and online aticles and have swung between importing, building my own (fanciful..) and having one built locally.
In the end, I made contact with a few builders around Sydney and Rod was the one that a) answered every single question I asked him over, and b) promptly sent me a complete breakdown of what goes into his engines and the associated cost of any changes to the formula.
It is for this reason I am on the cusp (awaiting confirmation of bodywork required) of heading down to visit Rod for a drive of some of his motors.
Greg, your engine bay looks great, do you mind giving a bit more detail on the build? General specs/power etc. Can PM if you like?
I am sold on the vintage speed as I want to retain heater funtionality and love the look of the stock peashooters. (I see your not running heaters?)
Interesting to note that you have a 2054 in there without any additional cooling from the look of it? Are you running a stock transmission?
My goal is to go for the largest motor I can manage without too many issues as the car will be a regular driver and low down, low-mid rpm are important for a street car.
Would be great to catch up and talk VW. Now I just need to find time to slip away from the wife and the 6 week old for a few hours....
simohagz ·
Sander, thanks for the reply.
From what I can see Vintage do a model with flexi hoses up top and an adjustable flange down low for heater box connection.
Re the carbs, I dont want to strangle the thing but at the same time the lowest maintenance option will realistically be a better choice for me.
Lateral ·
Hi Simon
Send me a PM and we can arrange a catchup and chat. Rod can provide you with all of the specs of the motor.
Regarding your question about extra cooling.....I too was a bit skeptical when Rod said that I would not have any issues regarding cooling running a 2054 motor in the car. The front tinware, sleds have been removed and at this stage I am only running the standard dog house cooler. I have a full set of gauges including cylinder head temp on # 3 and everything is running well within specs and exactly as Rod said. Having said that, I have decided to install a thermostatically controlled fan assisted remote oil cooler (see photo) at the same time (from Rocket Industries) I install the remote oil filter not because I have to but because I want to as I will be taking the car on a few really long drives in summer.
The dual carbies are 40mm Decades (IDF copies) and seem to be performing well and were easy to tune when we ran the motor on the dyno.
Oh, and the Vintage Speed exhaust that I have does not connect to the heaters and uses J pipes.
Regarding the gearbox, Dave Butler (Dangerous on this forum) rebuilt the gearbox some years ago and it has a tall 4th gear that is great of the freeway!
Interestingly, I have done a few long test drives and mileage tests and have been getting about 31 mpg which I think is great!
Regards
Greg
Smiley ·
Regarding carbs.
I can't say much about webers cause I've not personally had any experience with them. But I've been running Kadrons on my 2054 (also a Rod engine actually) for almost 2 years now. In that time they have been adjusted twice, they really are a set and forget carby. Once you get them right they stay that way for a long time. And I've probably done close to 80-90 thousand kms in the last 2 years.
I do agree with the comments about buying a good linkage or taking the time to set the stock one up properly.
Smiley 🙂
simohagz ·
Is anybody running a Pobjoy 1916? Or a 1916 dual ignition?
Interested to see opinions on how the Pobjoy motors compare to Rod's for driveability and reliability?
Cheers,
Simon
sander288 ·
🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫
Lots of people running Pobjoy motors out there (me being one albeit 1285cc), his base 1916 comes with a warranty so that speaks of the reliability of the engines in itself
twin plugs in essence do not mean more power but a greater spread of power as they in effect remove the 'hot cam' syndrome
cnfabo on here has a pobjoy twin plug with videos on youtube and many a hillclimb champ has been won using his engines; with that said many a drag race has been run using Rod's engines
In terms of comparisons you are going to get ALOT of opinions without alot of hard evidence to back things up; BOTH are renowned builders so my advice would be go to the one you like and gives you what you want. Drive ability will be a matter of opinion asking for a qualitative analysis on engines on a forum is just opening a can of worms IMO
Basic issue is that both blokes seem like truly enthusiastic and helpful people, and both have a heap of people standing behind their products.
And when you compare the prices, they are line ball!
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:many a hillclimb champ has been won using his engines;
LOL....not since I stopped racing, and not very many won before I started !! 🙅
Those wins came down to the driver and not just the motor, so don't use that as an example.
matberry ·
^^ ha ha, I've built 1600's that whip those 1915's
sander288 ·
whether a rod engine or a stan engine having a motor plays a pretty important part in being able to win a hillclimb I would think 😏
But being a 1300 I for one know "power" isn't everything
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:whether a rod engine or a stan engine having a motor plays a pretty important part in being able to win a hillclimb I would think
That's right Sander288, I would have won regardless of who built the motor so there's no use referencing hillclimb performance to a pobjoy.
sander288 wrote:twin plugs in essence do not mean more power but a greater spread of power as they in effect remove the 'hot cam' syndrome
Is that speaking from experience Sander288 or just re hashed info ?
I remember Peter Brock saying his Polariser did great things too....
sander288 ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
sander288 wrote:twin plugs in essence do not mean more power but a greater spread of power as they in effect remove the 'hot cam' syndrome
Is that speaking from experience Sander288 or just re hashed info ?
I remember Peter Brock saying his Polariser did great things too....
It is re-hashed but it also is in the blurb on his website about twin plugs - I have never driven in or driven a 1916 VW nor have I won hillclimb champs nor do I represent Stan Pobjoy. I am simply providing my opinion to help someone build an engine, neither me (& simon I suspect) want this to turn into a slinging match.
You could contribute to the discussion given your experience with the engines rather than pulling quotes out from my posts and stirring
all I can say about the polariser is that he didn't have it with him when he crashed so it must of done something! 😂
matberry ·
So what is 'hot cam syndrome' ?
sander288 ·
from my understanding it is the "delay" before the cam comes into it's power band
david777 ·
Mike from CBBVW has serviced my 1916 Beetle for the past 6 years. I couldn't be happier with the quality of his work.
cnfabo ·
Just use good parts properly inspected,machined..if you are only after a daily cruiser then piece of cake, any of the builders on here will build you a nice engine...one of them offers a warranty and others don't,your pick.....I have had a engine from rod and Stan and was/am happy with both....but if I was going for a daily I'd go for a torque cam all in by 5000-6000........you should not need dual springs,chromoly pushrods,ratio rockers,fancy tuneable ignition,berg linkage, ida's, etc so don't be called for that shit....
Have fun
Fabo......
fish26 ·
Some good info on this thread, I know a guy that paid for a warrantied engine that could not claim his warranty when things let go......the engine builder is not part of the forum.
I also know of another guy who could not claim warranty because "you cannot warrant Stupidity".
My recommendation is 1835cc thick wall 92s, 36 dells, CB2234, single springs, stock everything else, vintage speed, etc.
Paulc1964au ·
Simon,
check out my signature for my link to my 69 bug, built almost the identical motor your thinking of except its a 1776 and a Mallory dizzy. Picked the car up yesterday and its great, nice torque and sounds really sweet with the vintage speed exhaust. looks like you wont get away without either a deck lid stand off or a new deck lid. I have a stand of at the moment but will install a vented decklid soon.
If you would like more info on my costs etc happy for you to pm me, Vintage VW here in Sydney did a fantastic job and I couldn't be happier
vw54 ·
Hows the engine planning going
There a lot to choose from
simohagz ·
Planning is going well.
Car has been sent to the bodyshop for work to begin this week and hoping to get my first update tomorrow morning on progress so far.
Will most likely start a build thread at some stage soon to share some pics etc.
Looking forward to it!
benny_acko ·
Any update on this build simohagz?
Peter Leonard ·
+1 for Stan's engines, never tried anyone else as I was happy with his results and incredibly pedantic machine work. A pretty impressive background in racing bikes and cars with a list of records and aircraft engine experience /toolmaking sealed the deal for me; like you I shopped around a lot before I went with him back in the mid 90s.... Back when I got my first motor from him he was in Sydney... and so was I 🙂
Experience:
1: I've had a base 1916cc with Kads (great all purpose sleeper engine, set and forget with Kads like they say) which went and went and went and went (around Australia actually) until the car was t-boned by a woman in a Mitsubishi and written off. While looking for a donor car for the engine I decided I wanted more top end than the base setup and asked Stan to rebuild it as a:
2: 1916cc 'steroids engine' with Weber 44IDFs (pilot jets can be annoying on them, but a beautiful performance carbie nevertheless and completely different induction noise to the Kadrons) which went even harder until I had an unfortunate incident sliding and spinning backwards into a sandstone wall. Obviously I wanted MORE while the engine was out, so I went for a:
3: 1916cc 'steroids twin plug' engine which was my final ultimate engine which did everything the base did down low and everything the steroids did up high thanks to the way dual plugs cover the hotter cam and a shiny new alloy case because... it was shiny.. and new.. and I wanted something which wasn't already 40 years old as a case. As a party trick I found you can idle along in second, roll up to about 2k rpm and then just slam the throttle to the floor - even though the cam was only supposed to start getting really happy around 4k. Sweeet. I also played with Nitrous on this one, but in a rare sensible and touching moment with myself I realised it was not a street legal setup and I was only using it as a streetcar. I had become the fast and the dubious. The bottle came out and new manifolds went back on and it crossed Australia three times like this in a faded, battered looking old beetle. It carried all my worldly goods across the Nullarbor to Perth where I new live a simple and spartan existence in a monastery surrounded by goats and chickens. actually that last bit is crap.
4: Fast forward to now: In the throes of a complete resto, paint, electrical, exxy stereo, new gearbox, etc etc I WAS going to drop my ultimate number three back in, but discovered to my horror that where I'd stored my engine for a couple of years was not weatherproof... and water had snuck down the inlets into the cylinders seizing one of the pistons. So rather than shipping it back to Stan to have him just drop a new unrusted set of 94s back on and giving it a quick pat on the bum I opted for experimental fun again (what can I say... I love building shiny new things if I have an excuse 🙂 ) Enter the new 1956cc which is a one-off just for me. Time will tell if I've strayed too far from the norm on this, but I reckon it's going to be awesome to finally be back on the road again with another 'new' weapon... using many of the same old bits I started out with.
Whoever you go with I'm sure you'll have a blast, just do your research just like you've been doing and talk to your builder to make sure they're building what you expect. Careful you don't catch the speed bug like me 👍
Who am I kidding. It's awesome to blow away doofing commodores at the lights. 😂
cnfabo ·
Peter Leonard wrote:+1 for Stan's engines, never tried anyone else as I was happy with his results and incredibly pedantic machine work. A pretty impressive background in racing bikes and cars with a list of records and aircraft engine experience /toolmaking sealed the deal for me; like you I shopped around a lot before I went with him back in the mid 90s.... Back when I got my first motor from him he was in Sydney... and so was I 🙂
Experience:
1: I've had a base 1916cc with Kads (great all purpose sleeper engine, set and forget with Kads like they say) which went and went and went and went (around Australia actually) until the car was t-boned by a woman in a Mitsubishi and written off. While looking for a donor car for the engine I decided I wanted more top end than the base setup and asked Stan to rebuild it as a:
2: 1916cc 'steroids engine' with Weber 44IDFs (pilot jets can be annoying on them, but a beautiful performance carbie nevertheless and completely different induction noise to the Kadrons) which went even harder until I had an unfortunate incident sliding and spinning backwards into a sandstone wall. Obviously I wanted MORE while the engine was out, so I went for a:
3: 1916cc 'steroids twin plug' engine which was my final ultimate engine which did everything the base did down low and everything the steroids did up high thanks to the way dual plugs cover the hotter cam and a shiny new alloy case because... it was shiny.. and new.. and I wanted something which wasn't already 40 years old as a case. As a party trick I found you can idle along in second, roll up to about 2k rpm and then just slam the throttle to the floor - even though the cam was only supposed to start getting really happy around 4k. Sweeet. I also played with Nitrous on this one, but in a rare sensible and touching moment with myself I realised it was not a street legal setup and I was only using it as a streetcar. I had become the fast and the dubious. The bottle came out and new manifolds went back on and it crossed Australia three times like this in a faded, battered looking old beetle. It carried all my worldly goods across the Nullarbor to Perth where I new live a simple and spartan existence in a monastery surrounded by goats and chickens. actually that last bit is crap.
4: Fast forward to now: In the throes of a complete resto, paint, electrical, exxy stereo, new gearbox, etc etc I WAS going to drop my ultimate number three back in, but discovered to my horror that where I'd stored my engine for a couple of years was not weatherproof... and water had snuck down the inlets into the cylinders seizing one of the pistons. So rather than shipping it back to Stan to have him just drop a new unrusted set of 94s back on and giving it a quick pat on the bum I opted for experimental fun again (what can I say... I love building shiny new things if I have an excuse 🙂 ) Enter the new 1956cc which is a one-off just for me. Time will tell if I've strayed too far from the norm on this, but I reckon it's going to be awesome to finally be back on the road again with another 'new' weapon... using many of the same old bits I started out with.
Whoever you go with I'm sure you'll have a blast, just do your research just like you've been doing and talk to your builder to make sure they're building what you expect. Careful you don't catch the speed bug like me 👍
Who am I kidding. It's awesome to blow away doofing commodores at the lights. 😂
😂
Get one of Stans base engines,you will never have to touch it.....its more fun NOT having to fix or adjust or re do something on a engine......
modnrod ·
Peter Leonard wrote:...... across the Nullarbor to Perth where I new live a simple and spartan existence in a monastery surrounded by goats and chickens.
actually that last bit is crap.
I knew that was crap, coz there aren't any chickens left.
Sorta on the same track, and please feel free to ignore completely if it's thread-jacking, but whatever happened to the Hellbug guys? I have spoken to Michael (?) years ago over the phone, but are they still building hotrods for a living, or have they too retired to a monastery on top of a hill, and need big tall Baja's to get there? 😂
Peter Leonard ·
modnrod wrote:
Peter Leonard wrote:...... across the Nullarbor to Perth where I new live a simple and spartan existence in a monastery surrounded by goats and chickens.
actually that last bit is crap.
I knew that was crap, coz there aren't any chickens left.
Sorta on the same track, and please feel free to ignore completely if it's thread-jacking, but whatever happened to the Hellbug guys? I have spoken to Michael (?) years ago over the phone, but are they still building hotrods for a living, or have they too retired to a monastery on top of a hill, and need big tall Baja's to get there? 😂
Yeah I'm actually surrounded by goats and empty KFC buckets. I choose to ignore the thread-jacking on the grounds that further chat about it will result in us straying further than those chickens already have.
Anyone else with first hand exp got any other builders to recommend for a solid, reliable streeter? **veers back on topic**
clyve ·
I am fairly new to this but a fitter by trade and having spent a bit of time on my rebuild I thought I was ready to put back together......I then spent a few hours with Mat and realised I wasn't even close, the way he explained how he does it and the pride he takes is very rare in this day and age.
Don't take this the wrong way mat but he reminds me of an old time village mechanic that really cares and stands by his work.
the man is a genius 🙅