Aussieveedubbers · Busses

installing a pop top into a standard van

https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/105073/installing-a-pop-top-into-a-standard-van

binner ·

...just curious as to how difficult it is to convert a van (71-74) to a pop top or is it even possible/worth the time and effort?

thanks in advance......

binner

DubbyDo ·

It is possible, mine is a 74 panel van that's been done. Has had some windows fitted that look like they were originally for a caravan. If you are putting kids in the back they will get claustro without something to look out of. I am going to fit the sliding door off a bus to open it up a bit more

loosecannon ·

As I found out on here, they all started out as tintops and holes just got cut into them. Good luck!

Dibsy ·

Presumably you will have to add belly pans to strengthen up the chassis ?

AA003 ·

Dibsy wrote:Presumably you will have to add belly pans to strengthen up the chassis ?
None of the Australian campers had pans. They were just Kombis that some mong attacked with a chainsaw.

That's why they just had a Kombi VIN.

binner ·

Dibsy wrote:Presumably you will have to add belly pans to strengthen up the chassis ?
cool, thanks for the zeebang, I wasn't sure on this stuff. I am worried that if i just chop a top out and install a popper that it may f%$k things up elsewhere. More research I guess......

thanks bloke.....

binner ·

AA003 wrote:
Dibsy wrote:Presumably you will have to add belly pans to strengthen up the chassis ?
None of the Australian campers had pans. They were just Kombis that some mong attacked with a chainsaw.

That's why they just had a Kombi VIN.
If this is true then it seems reasonable to just do a cut and add a popper...... If there are still vans /poppers cruising round now then it must be ok to bite the bullet and do it.....😊😂

helbus ·

You wont be cutting any of the roof supports that run on the side parallel to the main chassis. The change in body strength is negligible. You may have to cut one of the small lateral sideways supports that is there to stop the roof sheet metal from vibrating. I would recommend looking at another bus that has been done at a wrecker and see if you can see what is cut and where they moved any lateral supports to. Maybe someone here has a photo of their top from the inside before the headlining was put back in.

The belly pan/ second floor skin was on the double doors. They had a slider on both sides, so that would allow the top and bottom of the bus to skew at the door openings if overstressed. In a single door the outside panel on the opposide side gives the appropriate extra strength.

AA003 ·

helbus wrote:The belly pan/ second floor skin was on the double doors.
Also on Westfalias as they were built on a sunroof bodies that had extra strengthening built in.

68BUS ·

If you are cutting it out then you may as well strengthen the edges as you go. Costs bugger all and will take 1/2 a day with a welder and some steel.

Also, if you do go down this path. Learn from the mistakes of the likes of Supro and Westfalia. Place the pop top on the roof and mark out the perimeter. Tape it up and then use a good quality rust prohibiting paint. Something like rust bullet automotive. you will probably go through $100 (1ltr) worth of it. Take photos of having done it and you will get your money back if you sell.
Sleeping in the bus and normal conditions causes too much rust within these skins.

binner ·

cool, thanks for all the info. Not sure it's something I want to tackle at the moment.........