vlad01 ·
anyone know a rough current price for concrete per m3 ?
Aussieveedubbers · General Chit Chat
price of concrete per m3
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/105394/price-of-concrete-per-m3
Kuchster ·
Starts at around $160 for a concreter, you wont find much cheaper, unless they buy a lot more but im not sure how much more it would drop by. Some pay $180 or $190
11CAB ·
I just got a 6x6 slab put in for about $2600 for my shed
ahoogah ·
Depends on the strength you need,mix design, the distance from the batch plant and volume.
Minimum cartage rate of 3m.
Mini mix dearer.
Ring around for best price,everyone is keen atm.
Minimum cartage rate of 3m.
Mini mix dearer.
Ring around for best price,everyone is keen atm.
whathaveidone ·
Hope that was 6mX6m??????Otherwise if ill do your next one if you want11CAB wrote:I just got a 6x6 slab put in for about $2600 for my shed
11CAB ·
Yeah 6m x 6m
vlad01 ·
ok so lets say average $175 per m3.
ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
so where was I? oh yeah 18 x 10 x 0.127 = 22.86m3 = $4k just for concrete
x 2 the price for reo, plastic and labor only the concreting itself. My team and I will be doing the digging, leveling, compacting, plastic, foam separators etc...
yeah 8k is doable. My half bro does sheds and has been doing for well over 20 year, he actually built my shed. Got some friends of his who do concreting for a living which will join the project
at a mates rate 😂 dam I feel cheap. My half bros idea I swear!
ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
so where was I? oh yeah 18 x 10 x 0.127 = 22.86m3 = $4k just for concrete
x 2 the price for reo, plastic and labor only the concreting itself. My team and I will be doing the digging, leveling, compacting, plastic, foam separators etc...
yeah 8k is doable. My half bro does sheds and has been doing for well over 20 year, he actually built my shed. Got some friends of his who do concreting for a living which will join the project
at a mates rate 😂 dam I feel cheap. My half bros idea I swear!
ahoogah ·
Always a good idea to get the subgrade checked by the floorlayer before reo goes down,nothing worse than lack of cover.
Plenty of excellent floorlayers about will work for collin ash.
At 180m/2 you will need a few men,may need to factor in a concrete pump depending how solid the ground is.
Plenty of excellent floorlayers about will work for collin ash.
At 180m/2 you will need a few men,may need to factor in a concrete pump depending how solid the ground is.
mactaylor ·
going rate around albury for crete about $180m3 place and finnish $22-$35 per m2 no earth works. its a good time of the year to get helpers in as theres not much on, concrete pump costs bout $130 an hour minimum 3 hrs $5m3 wear charge and $3 a klm.
vlad01 ·
yeah we got all that factored in. I got a budget of 9-9.5K for the project. The concreting mates we have, have got all the equipment and helicopter.ahoogah wrote:Always a good idea to get the subgrade checked by the floorlayer before reo goes down,nothing worse than lack of cover.
Plenty of excellent floorlayers about will work for collin ash.
At 180m/2 you will need a few men,may need to factor in a concrete pump depending how solid the ground is.
Adsman ·
hmmm great to be in the know
Got mine done nearly three years ago but keeping in mind i lived in north qld and everything is more expensive
12 x 18 bonded beam slab reinforced in roller door bays with 2m cubic hoist reinforcing beam = 30odd metres of concrete, cost $185 a metre plus milage surcharge, helicopter finished, 6 workers and bobcat hired $24k job in 8hours kinda makes you feel sick when you look at it that way
never the less love the concrete floor good jobs cost money
probably should add that it was increased hardness concrete and had slower cure additive put in to reduce cracking
Got mine done nearly three years ago but keeping in mind i lived in north qld and everything is more expensive
12 x 18 bonded beam slab reinforced in roller door bays with 2m cubic hoist reinforcing beam = 30odd metres of concrete, cost $185 a metre plus milage surcharge, helicopter finished, 6 workers and bobcat hired $24k job in 8hours kinda makes you feel sick when you look at it that way
never the less love the concrete floor good jobs cost money
probably should add that it was increased hardness concrete and had slower cure additive put in to reduce cracking
vlad01 ·
f**king hell! that expensive as hell 🤪
We have man power with several people, which only 1 or 2 are being hired at a mates rate anyway. My half bro has a vibrating roller, excavator, normal vibrator plate.
He also can get all the GST back for me as heel can put it under his business. So we estimated 8.5k with extra 500-1000 buks in case whatever and this was estimated on a 20 x 15 slab
so when i measured it and got 18 x 10, realistically we got 7-8k but I have 9-9.5k anyway.
I wont be doing it in 8 hrs. the preparation will be a week or 2.
We have man power with several people, which only 1 or 2 are being hired at a mates rate anyway. My half bro has a vibrating roller, excavator, normal vibrator plate.
He also can get all the GST back for me as heel can put it under his business. So we estimated 8.5k with extra 500-1000 buks in case whatever and this was estimated on a 20 x 15 slab
so when i measured it and got 18 x 10, realistically we got 7-8k but I have 9-9.5k anyway.
I wont be doing it in 8 hrs. the preparation will be a week or 2.
matberry ·
Amazing how it pays to get quotes. 5 years ago now, building house and shed at the same time, shed is 12 x 18, house slab similar area, quotes varied from 20k to over 40k. I got both and another for water tanks with uprated concrete for about 24 all done.
Adsman ·
lol you can add another 10-14k on that price for other quotes. Gee I love north QLD.....
mactaylor ·
yeah quotes are varied but the top end dudes all seem to hang around the same usually bout $65 m2 all up but this can vary as the site and soil changes and who the quote is for, double it if its for a teacher or triple for a university lecturer!
volumex ·
I'll talk to some of the civil engineers at work and see how thick it needs to be.vlad01 wrote:ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
Is it just for working on cars? Any plans for hoists or jib cranes etc?
ahoogah ·
The nine words that construction coalface personnel do not want to hear?volumex wrote:I'll talk to some of the civil engineers at work and see how thick it needs to be.vlad01 wrote:ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
Is it just for working on cars? Any plans for hoists or jib cranes etc?
"I am an engineer,I am here to help" 🤓
vlad01 ·
I have been recommended I should only need 3-4". 🙄 yeah right, so i talked to my half bro who was and engineer for over 30 years and did sheds on the side and still does.
He recommended 5" he has 6" in his 2 sheds which has a massive fork and 10 ton truck and few 10 ton lathes and he even used to have a 35 ton lathe.
No problems at all. its all in the base preparation. hell I could go 6" for extra 500 buks.
I may have a hoist one day? possibly a small fork? for what I don't know. Yeah the shed will only be for cars. I do plan for a gantry system but that's nothing to do with the slab.
He recommended 5" he has 6" in his 2 sheds which has a massive fork and 10 ton truck and few 10 ton lathes and he even used to have a 35 ton lathe.
No problems at all. its all in the base preparation. hell I could go 6" for extra 500 buks.
I may have a hoist one day? possibly a small fork? for what I don't know. Yeah the shed will only be for cars. I do plan for a gantry system but that's nothing to do with the slab.
BiX ·
Your brother is right, subgrade is the key. Its almost like body work, the prep really makes the finished product. 100mm is not out of the question for a light weight slab.
beetleboyjeff ·
As a builder, I would agree with this, and the preparation statement. You could even just thicken the slab where you may want a hoist later, or strengthen the slab with beams in it. You may well need beams around the edges, depending on what type of construction your shed will be.BiX wrote:100mm is not out of the question for a light weight slab.
Interestingly on the concrete price, we were paying almost $200 m3 for 25mgp concrete in Port Macquarie over 12 months ago, and I just got a quote in Parkes, and it was just over $ 200 m3 for 20mgp concrete. Maybe just check with your local supplier for their current price - should only need a phone call.
waltermitty ·
Your budget is missing BEER all concreters drink their weight in beer immediately the job is screed. I believe the rate increases for mate rates. Mvlad01 wrote:ok so lets say average $175 per m3.
ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
so where was I? oh yeah 18 x 10 x 0.127 = 22.86m3 = $4k just for concrete
x 2 the price for reo, plastic and labor only the concreting itself. My team and I will be doing the digging, leveling, compacting, plastic, foam separators etc...
yeah 8k is doable. My half bro does sheds and has been doing for well over 20 year, he actually built my shed. Got some friends of his who do concreting for a living which will join the project
at a mates rate 😂 dam I feel cheap. My half bros idea I swear!
HappyDaze ·
It surprises me that no-one has mentioned the importance of STEEL in all of this. Without reo., concrete is not much good - no matter how thick!
silver ·
and an edge beam with steel as well
norbert ·
9-10 grand even with mates rates is cheap. I paid 26 grand 26 years ago doing my house slab which is 210 m2. Granted its near Canberra and Pub rates apply even if your not one of them.
ahoogah ·
Reo doesn't give any more strength on ground slabs,just holds the concrete together if it cracks.HappyDaze wrote:It surprises me that no-one has mentioned the importance of STEEL in all of this. Without reo., concrete is not much good - no matter how thick!
Adequately solid subgrade is more important.
vlad01 ·
is 200 buks in beer good? lol. I wouldn't know I don't drink.waltermitty wrote:Your budget is missing BEER all concreters drink their weight in beer immediately the job is screed. I believe the rate increases for mate rates. Mvlad01 wrote:ok so lets say average $175 per m3.
ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
so where was I? oh yeah 18 x 10 x 0.127 = 22.86m3 = $4k just for concrete
x 2 the price for reo, plastic and labor only the concreting itself. My team and I will be doing the digging, leveling, compacting, plastic, foam separators etc...
yeah 8k is doable. My half bro does sheds and has been doing for well over 20 year, he actually built my shed. Got some friends of his who do concreting for a living which will join the project
at a mates rate 😂 dam I feel cheap. My half bros idea I swear!
Oh yeah talked to me half bro agian, he has 5" in the shed that used to have the 40 ton lathe and the fork. No probs. So 5" it is. 👍
vlad01 ·
norbert wrote:9-10 grand even with mates rates is cheap. I paid 26 grand 26 years ago doing my house slab which is 210 m2. Granted its near Canberra and Pub rates apply even if your not one of them.
I told my bro about the prices mentioned here in this thread.
he has never heard of such high prices before. must be the labor in preparation? i guess you don't pay yourself for the work you do yourself.
vlad01 ·
yeah that is already factored in. will be around 2400 buks including delivery. That is the first thing i am buying.ahoogah wrote:Reo doesn't give any more strength on ground slabs,just holds the concrete together if it cracks.HappyDaze wrote:It surprises me that no-one has mentioned the importance of STEEL in all of this. Without reo., concrete is not much good - no matter how thick!
Adequately solid subgrade is more important.
mactaylor ·
as mentioned steel is only for crack control in a ground slab, however i did a slab afew years back that was 350mm thick top and bottom sl101 mesh for a forge around here that supports 40 tonne manipulator that picks up red hot 15 tonne billets and on occasion drops them! so far so good!
donn ·
Of course reo is for crack controll, concreye is good in compression but rat shit in tension, if your ground moves then the top of the slab will be either in compresion or tension and the bottom of the slab will be in the opposite situation, delete reo in slab on ground at your own risk. Hear endeth the lesson.
Adsman ·
that should get them by till the pub opens 😂vlad01 wrote:is 200 buks in beer good? lol. I wouldn't know I don't drink.waltermitty wrote:Your budget is missing BEER all concreters drink their weight in beer immediately the job is screed. I believe the rate increases for mate rates. Mvlad01 wrote:ok so lets say average $175 per m3.
ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
so where was I? oh yeah 18 x 10 x 0.127 = 22.86m3 = $4k just for concrete
x 2 the price for reo, plastic and labor only the concreting itself. My team and I will be doing the digging, leveling, compacting, plastic, foam separators etc...
yeah 8k is doable. My half bro does sheds and has been doing for well over 20 year, he actually built my shed. Got some friends of his who do concreting for a living which will join the project
at a mates rate 😂 dam I feel cheap. My half bros idea I swear!
vlad01 ·
lol
Austcan ·
vlad01 wrote:anyone know a rough current price for concrete per m3 ?
Austcan ·
What is the cost of a cubic meter of concrete if you buy all materials and mix yourself, is there a big savings ,less the sore back lol
Austcan ·
Given you have a well prepped sub grade base, is a 100 mm concrete slab with 10mm rebar ok for a slab in a house ?
HappyDaze ·
House!!!!!!!!....I thought you were building something important, such as a shed. 🙄
One slab won't be enough.......you may even need a keg. 👍
One slab won't be enough.......you may even need a keg. 👍
Governor ·
You have only made 3 posts and all about concrete?
I am thinking you are on the wrong forum??
I am thinking you are on the wrong forum??
Austcan ·
,, no just a house slab, no shed at this time, 100 mm should be ok ?HappyDaze wrote:House!!!!!!!!....I thought you were building something important, such as a shed. 🙄
One slab won't be enough.......you may even need a keg. 👍
Austcan ·
thought I was in general convo, is there a concrete chat ?Governor wrote:You have only made 3 posts and all about concrete?
I am thinking you are on the wrong forum??
vassy66T1 ·
You would be wise to have an engineer give some design to your slab.
There are basic designs but even these are particular to the building as to where external and internal beams go.
Send me a PM if you want a basic slab engineering to compare with. Anything less than that is money down the drain. Your slab is your major termite barrier in a home.
I can't believe anyone even mentioned in this thread in the past the idea of not using reinforcing steel ... are you f#$@!in nuts!!!
Steel holds the slab together in tension. Doing your own mix is a very bad idea for a house slab as the quality control will be up the creek.
There are basic designs but even these are particular to the building as to where external and internal beams go.
Send me a PM if you want a basic slab engineering to compare with. Anything less than that is money down the drain. Your slab is your major termite barrier in a home.
I can't believe anyone even mentioned in this thread in the past the idea of not using reinforcing steel ... are you f#$@!in nuts!!!
Steel holds the slab together in tension. Doing your own mix is a very bad idea for a house slab as the quality control will be up the creek.
vlad01 ·
whats this thread?
modnrod ·
We had a new concrete base just poured where I work for a new antenna base. It's a 13.6m antenna dish, and has to comply with minimum wind loading ratings, which means a certain volume and weight and size, etc, etc, etc.
Anyway, I was quite surprised when the job was done for only $325/m3, I spose the 50-odd cubic meters had something to do with the discount.
Normal quotes here are around the $390/m3.
Oh, and as for reo being necessary?
I don't see any in the Colosseum and that's still standing, but I can't see many 200yr old reinforced concrete floors still standing anywhere.
Hhmmm.
Anyway, I was quite surprised when the job was done for only $325/m3, I spose the 50-odd cubic meters had something to do with the discount.
Normal quotes here are around the $390/m3.
Oh, and as for reo being necessary?
I don't see any in the Colosseum and that's still standing, but I can't see many 200yr old reinforced concrete floors still standing anywhere.
Hhmmm.
bajachris88 ·
You show me where in the colloseum a concrete floor with no reo exists?
In the colloseum I only see bricks and mortar.
Standards exists for a reason. I'm sure structural engineers from a registered NATA testing facility could give a thorough low-down for the need of reo.
200 years ago, typical domestic buildings involved brick and motar walls (excluding timber walls), with timber beams spanning across the walls and floors on top. Floors were elevated off the ground. Back then they didn't have concrete trucks. Pouring slabs would have been heavily laborous if a bloke needed to shift couple tonne of concrete. I'd feel sorry for the donkey thats gotta tow that cart. He also wouldn't necessarily have town water to mix it in with either. Hence why you don't see many 🙂
In the colloseum I only see bricks and mortar.
Standards exists for a reason. I'm sure structural engineers from a registered NATA testing facility could give a thorough low-down for the need of reo.
200 years ago, typical domestic buildings involved brick and motar walls (excluding timber walls), with timber beams spanning across the walls and floors on top. Floors were elevated off the ground. Back then they didn't have concrete trucks. Pouring slabs would have been heavily laborous if a bloke needed to shift couple tonne of concrete. I'd feel sorry for the donkey thats gotta tow that cart. He also wouldn't necessarily have town water to mix it in with either. Hence why you don't see many 🙂
HappyDaze ·
Wholeheartedly agree.vassy66T1 wrote:You would be wise to have an engineer give some design to your slab.
There are basic designs but even these are particular to the building as to where external and internal beams go.
Send me a PM if you want a basic slab engineering to compare with. Anything less than that is money down the drain. Your slab is your major termite barrier in a home.
I can't believe anyone even mentioned in this thread in the past the idea of not using reinforcing steel ... are you f#$@!in nuts!!!
Steel holds the slab together in tension. Doing your own mix is a very bad idea for a house slab as the quality control will be up the creek.
A concrete slab is like a re-built engine.......if it's not done just right, you will be sorry forever. At least an engine can be done again without too much trouble, and without the use of a jack-hammer ❗
mactaylor ·
hand mixed crete is so 20 years ago! We do a bit for our tanks but not much anymore, Water to cement ratio is what gives you your MPA or strength, as a guide you will require approx 380kgs of cement with 170 litres of h2o and approx 2000kgs of graded quality 20mm conmix to achieve 25MPA at 28 days for 1m3 of concrete, this is with no admixtures or water reducers. The biggest day I have ever done is 8m3 hand mixed by me and i can tell you it wasnt fun. A good bloke can mix 1m3 in about 40 minutes. The main no no is to make the concrete like piss, nearly all concreters do it and it is very detrimental to the concrete. Also if youre going to attempt to pour it your self the reinforcing needs careful attention make sure it is placed where the specs say it should be, not just poured over and left at the bottom of the crete, it is no use having there if it cant do its job.
vlad01 ·
btw, I did get my slab done just coming up to 2 years ago now.
about 200m2 floor space including apron. 6" thick with reo. They used a high grade mix for strength, semi burnt finish and slab cut. All up I got the whole job done including, 3 man labor, reo, sand, bar chairs, plastic, expansion joint foam etc.. was grand total of $8300
I did all the prep work and we had extra helpers during the pouring.
Still stoked at the results. its smooth, level and hard that hammers bounce off when dropped without damaging the surface.
about 200m2 floor space including apron. 6" thick with reo. They used a high grade mix for strength, semi burnt finish and slab cut. All up I got the whole job done including, 3 man labor, reo, sand, bar chairs, plastic, expansion joint foam etc.. was grand total of $8300
I did all the prep work and we had extra helpers during the pouring.
Still stoked at the results. its smooth, level and hard that hammers bounce off when dropped without damaging the surface.