Starting to get some stuff together for my last project I plan on doing.Got the shits on with the Drag Car at the moment.Got sick of being pissed around by "experts".When I get it ready to run again,I will hook up with Pat at CB to finish it off.Going to send this wheel, button and flasher switch off to have a black pearl finish with a red flame through it.I already have a rear disc brake conversion I made from new ED Falcon stuff with a 5x130 bolt pattern and a new set of front rotors from Sherman for a link pin front-also in 5x130,as well as a set of dropped spindles.I will buy some of those 17x7 copies of the Fuchs alloys.Looks like I will be able to use some stuff laying around here.Have to do an IRS on the pan and cut it to fit a Bus auto trans I have left over from the Drag Car.I have put new bearings in the diff,but will get the 003 auto overhauled.I have a 54 in fairly rough shape I got from 57 oval that will be suitable for some radical cutting and modifying.
HappyDaze ·
Should be ready for Valla then, Gary. 😏
Turbo54 ·
Whats the rough 54 shell look like? Not my old one is it?
T54
nbturbo ·
No- it had been laying here for many years. The doors are in excellent shape which for me is the big bonus. The rest is all fairly easy to fix.
matberry ·
Sounds interesting....... enjoy the journey.
nbturbo ·
Yes-looking forward to it.The plan is to reproduce my Drag Car in a street version from the 54 with a Suby turbo and the spare Bus auto I have.Got to finish the closed in trailer for the Drag car first though.
20bkombi ·
Sounds very cool Gary!!.
I too, want to build a street notch back with the same engine and trans as my unfinished drag notch.
You might want to make the primary pressure valve work off the throttle cable as it might not work under boost.
I love watching new projects take off.
nbturbo ·
You will be a part of the journey Aaron- the transmission will be your project when the time comes. I was going to use the Bus Trans with the 003 .
nbturbo ·
Bought another tool for the workshop-only a small version,but what an amazing thing to use.I have just cut some 6mm 316 stainless and just like a hot knife thru butter.Cleaned up the torsion bar tube for the new ute and modified the jigs I made for the Drag Car-will still be 100mm longer but only 60mm lower this time.The 90mm I did on the Drag Car is a bit too low for a street car.
nbturbo ·
Something has got in the way of this toy-fibreglass shortened buggies.I have done full rebuilds of 2 in the last 2 months for customers,and somehow have ended up with 2 of my own.I have almost finished cutting and shutting my new pan and have done things a little differently to the norm.I have recently done a pan shortening for a customer,and got the idea of cutting the full rear floor out like I did to my Drag Car,and replacing it with a flat steel panel.Saves having to piss around trying to get the join in the OG pan welded up-way too thin for a good finish.I have done the same in my pan,but went to 2mm plate instead of 1.6.It's so much easier to weld and cuts unreal with the plasma.I have bought almost everything new for mine-eg,new 7inch stainless headlights,all new tie rod ends,stainless cannon exhaust,50mm ally mill finsh tube for roll bars,extruded ally channel to make a new taller windscreen and all new VW style dash switches.I am having a double sider IRS box converted to swing axle,so gives me a 3.88 diff for better cruising with the 1600 twin port.I had a spare LH Drive 22mm master cylinder left over,so I have converted the pan to take LH and RH drive cylinders.The LH drive ones are a fraction of the cost of RH versions.I have cut the gear lever base from the tunnel and shifted it back so it sits in the same position as the Super Bugs.Will modify a short hand brake lever to take the early type cable attachment.
nbturbo ·
A couple more.The buggy I have almost finished for a customer-he wanted a 2inch lift kit,so I made the whole thing from 50X25X2mm ally RHS.Turned out fairly good-but a lot of cutting and welding.His is a yellow Manx style body.I made a full trans/engine sump guard and a round bar rear protection set up.
nbturbo ·
The body lift kit.I made the kit so it can be bolted to the pan in its correct location with the seal under it,then the body can go on and be bolted thru the normal body attaching holes.I have done a 30X30X2mm square tube strengthening beam under both pans where the body bolts down and plug welded it to the pan between each of the body attaching holes.
nbturbo ·
Some more.I have 2 38mm holes each side of the back of the pan.I have ordered some stumpy stainless marine drain plugs to put there-should be a lot easier to hose it out after a day in the sand-just get the front up a bit higher and unscew the plugs.
nbturbo ·
Holes in pan floors and the seat belt anchors welded in.
nbturbo ·
The clutch cable tube had broken at the pedal end,so I had to cut the pan open to fix that,and because I was using a set of Super Bug pedals,I also had to shift the tube over to the passenger side.All worked out good.I added 2 more braces to connect the clutch tube to the pan along the tunnel-so it should never move any more.While I had the tunnel open,I ran a new 8mm fuel line and bought it out the LHS of the pan.Doesn't get in the way of any steering arms or fuel tank fittings.I machined some chrome moly tube so the OG hand brake cable tube would slip inside,then welded the C/M tube to the pan and the handbrake bracket.Just pushed the steel tube in from the rear and hit it home,welded it to the C/M and cut the excess off at the frame horn.
modnrod ·
Can I ask a question please?
Is the 30 x 30 a perfect fit into pan bolting channel, or does it have a few mm slack once sitting in the channel?
Did you need to weld in crush tubes for the pan-to-body bolts, or isn't there enough torque on the bolts to matter?
nbturbo ·
Not a snug fit- but I keep it tight against the inside edge of the pan. There are long raised sections in the pan channel-so keeping it hard against the pan edge keeps it all square.I drill 13mm holes in the pan so I can plug weld the tube to the pan- it seems ironical, but where I need to drill the 13mm holes is where the holes are left from the small spikes used at the factory to hold the body seal rubber in place. I cut about 20 slits in the tube with a 1mm disc to create the bend, then clamp it all in place and make a cardboard template of the bend, cut a piece from 3mm flat and cover all the slits and weld it all up.Of course I pre drill all the holes for holding the body down. I drill them 10mm and use a heavy 8mm flat washer underneath- never had the tube crush yet.
vduboy ·
Funny you should mention crush tubes in the lift kit, my engineer made me put them in every body to pan hole, even though I'm 100% sure the fibreglass would crack before the lift kit would crush...🤪 Love your work mate! Looks great, got a link to the drag car? Or still a sore point?
nbturbo ·
You are correct about it destroying the fibreglass way before crushing the tube.I used 2mm wall thickness, but reckon you could get away with 1.6 at a pinch.I put the bodyon the yellow one last week- you cant actually do the bolts up tight because the fibreglass starts to come apart, so I used nyloc nuts on everything and it seems all OK.Check in the "Drag Racing" section for the Drag Car- "another toy for me"
nbturbo ·
Picked this Ghia clock up from Ebay-bady burnt out-probably 12volts put to a 6volt unit.Put in a 1.5 volt battery clock to replace the original.modified some hands to suit and now have a working unit.Used a glass from a 6volt speedo to replace the plastic OG one with the adjusting hole.Will use it in my Manx buggy.
57 oval ·
Clocks fast Gastro your post was 417pm and the clock reads 435pm ???
nbturbo ·
Picked up my shortened buggy pan this morning after a blast and fresh paint.Very happy with the finish.Have finished an IRS rear disc brake conversion for my Hot Rod with Ford stud pattern and I am halfway thru a swing axle conversion using the Ford stuff-but got new undrilled rotors some time ago and drilled for Porsche stud pattern.I bought new front rotors from Sherman years ago in Porsche,so have cleaned them up,fitted 14mm studs and painted ready to be fitted.I have ordered some new rotors from John in Ford stud pattern for my Hot Rod project.I already have 2 15x6 Fuchs for the Buggy and bought 4 15x5.5's last week from a bloke in Sydney,which I will use 2 for the front of the Buggy.
nbturbo ·
I modified some Super Bug high back seats by fitting the runners from early seat bases so they would fit the seat frames on my 6volt pan. I found that they wouldn't slide right back on a shortened pan, because the backrest adjusters hit hard on the centre tunnel.I cut some reliefs into the tunnel and fabbed some steel plates to fill the holes I had to cut.Works really good now with full travel.
nbturbo ·
Started to assemble the Buggy pan.Made all new brake pipes and modified some to make the LHD master cylinder fit.I have filled every cavity that can hold moisture with Fish Oil-things don't smell too good at the moment.Stripped a late pedal set,sand blasted,painted and lubed up for years of trouble free use.I modified the clutch pedal with a gusset welded where it attaches to the pivot shaft and bent it to sit closer to the tunnel-it was way too close to the brake pedal.
Bizarre ·
That pan looks sweet !
nbturbo ·
Have got a problem with the buggy body-I mounted it on the pan and it hangs low on the LH rear corner-about 35mm.I checked the pan for squareness-and it had pulled about 25mm low on the RH side where I welded in the 30x30 reinforcing tube.I don't remember it being out before I had it blasted and painted.I checked with straight edges and spirit levels-and the front frame head had pulled also by 15mm low on the RH side.I took the pan to a shop with a 3x2 metre by 300mm thick cast plate.I blocked it up level,strapped it down and jacked it until it all squared up.I now have less than 2 mm twist from front to rear.Back to the fibreglass body-on a flat surface,it has 35mm difference from floor to each rear corner.It must have been made like that - because its only as good as the mould it came out of.I has a Fibreglass Bloke look at it today and he has taken on the job to fix it.He has had me make a slit right along the LH side,about 70mm up from the mounting flange,bolt it all back down and support the body to set it at the correct height.All done and it looks way better now.Off tomorrow to have him fix it.I have put black plastic right around the join on the pan,to stop any resin stuffing up my newly painted pan.Has anybody ever had a body this out of square.I have finished 2 major buggy rebuilds lately-2 different types of bodies,and both hung low at the LH rear corner-but not as bad as mine
nbturbo ·
Have got the body back from the fibreglass bloke,very pleased with the work.I have got a lot to do now with sanding,bogging and high build primer.I have made a frame to go under the trans and engine for sump guards as well as incorporating a towbar and protection bars.
adlbeetle66 ·
Neat work!
Keep it up!! 👍
nbturbo ·
Have started to mount the body to the pan.The body seems fairly short over the motor compared to others I have seen.I had the spare wheel cavity glassed up to make an on board esky.Should hold a couple of sangas and some beers.Will put a padded and hinged seat over it.Just fitted the boat bung to let out the water.This body won't allow the carby and air cleaner to go under it-hence the big bit cut out when I bought it.Will solve that issue with some Type 3 twin carbies.
nbturbo ·
Got a few more jobs done on the Buggy.I have finished the rear protection bar/towbar and it is away being blasted and painted.Made a trans and engine skid plate from 6mm ally checker.The body won't allow the standard centre carb so I have fitted a set of Type3 duals and had to fabricate the full throttle assembly.I did use part of the Type3 centre pull.Just finished doing a rear disc conversion on a Type3 trans using ED Ford stuff.Bought a pair of new undrilled rotors and drilled them 5x130.Bought some new front rotors from Sherman for the link pin beam also 5x130.Can now use some of the spare Fuchs 911 rims I have.Will probably buy a new set of 17x7"s for the rear and use some 15x6's on the front.My buggy had no dash when I bought it,but I was doing body off/new floorpan resto at the same time on a customers Buggy.His dash was a perfect fit to my body.His was full of holes which were no longer being used-so I sent it away to have all holes filled and then a mould made from it-I now have a new clean skin dash for mine and a new mould.
nbturbo ·
A few more.I reckon I can use the Type3 air cleaner ends that screw to the carbs.Just weld the openings shut with some steel,then weld some round tube to the top skin to attach a pod filter.
bevoracing ·
Good stuff Gary.
For everyone, my advice, for what it’s worth, is to choose your “Pod” filters very carefully.
I’ve used both types over years of off road racing. While the ones with the moulded rubber base is convenient, particularly for bikes, they have some nasty drawbacks that can catch you out. I’ve seen filters looking properly oiled and the carb full of dirt. The cleaning & oiling procedure for a foam filter “Uni-Filter” is straight forward, but the filter is useless if the oil doesn’t coat the outside of every cavity in the foam. It’s the final action of rolling it up and squeezing the last of the oil out that ensures it’s pushed into every space. It’s also important that all the oil you can is squeezed out because too much oil makes a mess. It’s impossible to squeeze out “too much” oil by hand. This is all VERY hard to do correctly with a moulded base on the filter that doesn’t allow it to be folded up. So, if you get the chance to make a choice, build an inlet jug (velocity stack) for your carb and choose the all foam filter that holds on with a tie, like you would use on a side draft Webber, and be sure it’s properly oiled, every time. Could save you an engine.
That’s my 2 cents. 😎 http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d135.html
Carry on
Tony
nbturbo ·
Good call Tony- I was thinking on the same lines. You made any progress yet? Just thinking- better ring Bob at Volkscare to see how is going with my CB transmission.
bevoracing ·
There’s always just a little bit of progress. I had to get some front end parts in for someone else the other day so I got in a set of fulcrum plates for my box. I reckon that’s all it’s going to need, will be worth a go anyway. I’ll get to putting the box back together soon. I’m in New Zealand on a shutdown at the moment so nothing happening. Painting is the big one, not looking forward to that. Probably not through the winter.
nbturbo ·
Finally got all the brakes and wheels on so it can come off the hoist.Put a new set of link and king pin bushes in the stub axles,new bearings and seals in the new front brake rotors,but still have to do the front calipers.Need to get the yellow,turbocharged white elephant back on the hoist and check out the issue with the engine's oil pressure.Cut into the fibre glass to fit one of the new tail lights I bought for it.Have done an order from the US for it-3 inch body lift kit,17X7 Fuchs mags for the rear,Type 2 rear bump stop rubbers,and a set of gas shocks.I have stripped the steering box and fitted new bearings and seals,a full set of new tie rod ends and a new steering damper.
nbturbo ·
Had a win today-got my rear towbar/protection bar back.Had it done in an irredescant silver which is awesome in the sunlight.
bevoracing ·
How come, when I look at that last post, logged out, there's 2 pictures there I can't see.
But when I log in there's nothing?
I can see most pictures but have noticed this before several times
Weird
nbturbo ·
Mystery to me Tony.
adlbeetle66 ·
Yes... definitely a mystery...
Pics are working for me!
bevoracing ·
Thwere are apparently 2 files attached to my last post too. I can't see them, logged in, can't remove them or change them either. I logged in on my girlfriend's apple, nothing there either.
There's something seriously wrong with this server. Bugger.
Last pictures I can see in this thread is Garry's motor on March 21st.
grazza7755 ·
All pics are clear to me .
April 7th and April 9th all there
Mystery eh.
nbturbo ·
My US order arrived this week.Got 2 Fuchs 17x 7 polished repos,a 3 inch body lift kit for a standard length floor pan and some other bits for the Buggy.Put some 265/65 Bridgestones on the Fuchs and bolted them on-like what I see.I cut and shut the lift kit to suit the shortened pan and welded extra bracing pieces on.I will mount it differently to how it was intended.It was made to have thru bolts to hold it all together.I will mount the lift kit solid to the pan with the rubber seal and then bolt the body to the lift kit so the body can be removed leaving the lift kit part of the pan.With the new wheels on the back,it can almost go over a 20lt drum standing up.
nbturbo ·
I also bought some wheel adaptors to bolt Fuchs 5x130 up to early 5x205.I recently bought 4 Fuchs from a bloke in Sydney to fit the Buggy,but decided that 15x5 inch weren't going to cut it, so got the 17x7's.I already had an OG pair of 15x6inch Fuchs,so they are going on the front.I am going to fit the 4 15x5's now onto my 31 thousand mile all original 64.I have had the 2 late model seats I modified to fit the 6 volt pan recovered in a marine grade material for the Buggy-very pleased with the result.
nbturbo ·
Picked this up recently.I was told that it was a Ziegler pump set up,but it's not.I forget who put it together-it's on the pump but that is in another shed.I am told that the motor still has the original oil in it which I find hard to believe.Story is that soon after it was purchased,some retards took it to try and filled the pump with large rocks and smashed the impellor and that's how it has remained since 1964.It has a unique genny stand which I haven't seen before-there are 3 x 8mm studs on the front face.The best part of all is that it has a 12 volt genny which is the same size as a 6 volt unit.It still has the OG crank handle.
nbturbo ·
Made a new ally windscreen frame for the Buggy today.The OG screen was cracked and was only 360mm high-which was way too low.First made it 500mm high,but it looked too bulky and was much higher than needed for wind protection.Decided that it only needed to be 450mm high,so cut the sides to suit.Made new side brackets from 6mm ally plate using the shitty OG's as templates.With the tall tyres and body lift,it's a bit of a struggle to get in and out,so Im thinking some side protection bars to use as a step may be needed.
CheapChalee ·
Nice looking project.
Chalee
nbturbo ·
Bought 2 lengths of 50mm by 3mm wall thickness pipe for the roll bars.Took it to a local Engineering place with detailed drawings to get it bent.Looked like shit when I picked it up.They had flattened the outside of the bends and crinkled the inside radius of each bend.Have ordered a new hydraulic bench bender to have a go at it myself.I cut up one roll bar and made the front nudge bar.I had the exhaust bloke bend the 2 small vertical bars for the nudge bar- his machine does a neat bend, but it decreases the inside radius diameter too much.Doesn't look so bad when it's so low on the car.I have made plates for the rear bars to sandwich each side of the fibreglass and bolt to tubes I made to connect to the torsion bar tube and my rear bar that ties into the towbar.
nbturbo ·
The top side plates
modnrod ·
I have a cheap nasty pipe bender. To use it to make smooth bends I've tried small angles at a time, using the Force, swearing, a few graduated kicks, all to no avail. I thought about sacrificing a virgin when the planets are lined up, but that's just weird.
I ended up using a bit of 3mm flat bar bolted over the top of the former to "capture" the pipe and stop it lifting then kinking, and that worked a bit.
I'm thinking of a home-made mandrel bender, U-tube has them everywhere and they're easy-peasy apparently...........how hard can it be? (insert sarcastic smilie here please).
Could you please show pics of your bought bender if they work out, please? 😉
nbturbo ·
I will show you when it arrives.I used a borrowed bender to do the rear bars-I'm sure Noah made all the handrails on the Ark with it.The dies are all Imperial and the 2 rollers to hold the back of the bend are only about 25mm diameter,so they leave a dent in the back of every bend.I welded a lot of the dents up and ground them out but was a major PITA.I see the back rollers on the new one are about 75mm Diam.I fabbed some spot light brackets and a sand flag bracket today on the nudge bar.
nbturbo ·
The bender arrived-got it from SupacheapAuto-on special for $149.It's a 12,000KG with 6 dyes.Made a couple of bends and they were no better than the ones I had done professionally-thought OH shit blown my $149.Spoke to a bloke from a place here that does some pipe bending-told me to heat the pipe to cherry red where each bend will be,let it cool and bend it.Turned out really good with bugger all distortion.Have made a 3 bar cage and tacked it all together-just have to lift it out and fully weld.Have to fab up some brackets to hold the inertia reel belts and drill some holes for wiring for some LED dome lights.
nbturbo ·
Finished all the bars and got them back from the Painter.I have done all the repairs to the fibreglass-used some fibreglass bog to do the bigger faults and finished it off with normal car bog.The fibreglass bog sure takes some sanding to get it right.Was down to 40 grit pads on the sander.Pretty happy with how it turned out.Have it at the painter getting some high build primer put on.I drilled the centre bar and to run some wire to fit LED lights to use as interior lights when needed.Will use an early wiper switch on the dash somewhere to make them work.Made the seat belt anchors and bought some new inertia reels to suit.The small bars welded at each end are grab handles to make it easier to get in and out of the thing
nbturbo ·
Drilled and tapped the front of the trans 1/8 NPT and fitted a breather hose with a fuel filter to keep the shit out-one day it could end up in deep water.I made a bracket that bolts to the front beam and supports the fibreglass under the fuel tank-there is a lot of weight on the body with a full tank.The last mechanical job is the handbrake cables-figured an easy way to do it-fit the threaded ends of the cables to the lever and cut the cables at the calipers and fabricate a clamping/pivot arrangement to hook on to the caliper lever.
pete wood ·
Nice work... so basically you annealed the steel pipe before working it more. Makes sense. I might use that trick in the future. 👍
nbturbo ·
Yes that's what I reckon to call it. In one pic you can see the inside radius of a bend with slight wrinkling of the pipe. Before I heated it- the inside of the bend was seriously distorted,but the outside of the bend had about a 30mm wide flat distortion. Looked like shit.
nbturbo ·
Got my ally windscreen frame pieces back today from being painted in 2 pac silver metallic-same as the roll bars.I was going to polish it all,but it would always need repolishing from salt air etc.I had an early mesh sunvisor here which was pretty shitty,so had it blasted and painted silver as well-very nice.I have taken all the dents and scratches from the stainless end pieces,then polished them.They look better than when it was made.
wombatventures ·
Looking forward to seeing it all together mate. Those bends have come up sweet.
nbturbo ·
One of my mesh visor with the restored end pieces.
modnrod ·
You're a legend mate. 👍
Now I have an idea for mine, looks good, thank you.
wombatventures ·
Any chance you might get down to Morgan with us Gary? Although I don't want to drag you out of the shed, coz I'm looking forward to seeing your Toy finished.
nbturbo ·
wombatventures wrote:Any chance you might get down to Morgan with us Gary? Although I don't want to drag you out of the shed, coz I'm looking forward to seeing your Toy finished.
Not looking good at this stage.Drag Car is nearly finished in Pirie,Buggy body is getting close to getting some colour and we have a car show here Fathers Day weekend which I hope to get 3 or 4 VW's out for a run.
I have finished the hand brake on my Ford rear disc conversion.Machined a steel sleeve and welded it to the OG Ford bracket and made cable pivots from a 10mm stainless bolt to attach to the caliper arm.Had to drill the hole out to 10mm in the arm.Put the cables into the lever and left about 10mm of thread out,then pulled the cables tight at the caliper and fitted a drilled sleeve with a grub screw to clamp on the cable.When finished just cut off the excess cable.Works a treat.
nbturbo ·
Just wondering about the shocker mount on this Type3 trans? The shocker and springplate bracket is all fabricated, which I never seen before.All the Type3 's I have seen over the years were all cast ends like the Type 1 transmissions.
nbturbo ·
We are having a car show here Fathers Day,so pulled a couple out to get them ready.The NB hasn't been out for about 3 years and the 64 was last out about 7 years ago.Can't believe how easy it was to get started-2 small drinks down the carby and away it went and idled like it was last running yesterday.
wombatventures ·
The 64 looks great. Typical VW, leave it sit for ages and it will still start.
We're booked in to have Fathers Day/ old man's Birthday on the Fathers day Weekend otherwise we'd come up as well.
Have you got anything on on the weekend after? It'd be cool if you could join us at Morgan.
nbturbo ·
Picked my Buggy body up today with it's new coat of Yellow Pearl.The colour came from a Yamaha motor cycle colour chart.Start the assembly tomorrow and aiming for a fortnight to finish it and be driving it.
nbturbo ·
Managed to join the body and pan back together today.I bought a 12volt air compressor and reckon I can mount it up high on the front panel just behind the fuel tank.I will hard wire it and put a Ryco quick connect on the bottom of the dash panel.Will be handy for blowing up tubes etc at the beach.
nbturbo ·
and
nbturbo ·
Another day on the Buggy and small steps forward.Roll bars are in and bolted down.Fish oiled the 3 inch lift kit then fitted the ally checkerplate strips I cut to flash it off.Made a stainless bracket and mounted the air compressor up high on the front panel behind the dash.Mounted the speedo and the headlight,wiper and ignition switches.I made another ally switch bracket for the RH side of the dash for air comp,the spot lights,LED's on the roll bar and possibly will put a switch there as well for high/low beam.
nbturbo ·
and
nbturbo ·
It's so close to first drive now.Waiting on a new wood rim steering wheel from Ebay, that's late arriving and need the front wheels, which are still on the back of my Drag Car 2 hours from here at the Dyno tuner.Did a full rewire from scratch and added a some extras.Machined a hole in the gearchange housing of the early Type3 trans to fit a reverse light switch.Did a 12 volt conversion to an early 6 volt wiper assembly,by adapting a wiper motor from a superbug.Was a real easy conversion and just using a single speed.Used LED's for the front flasher lights,but fitted an extra pair to the windscreen frame so they are visible from any direction.
nbturbo ·
Instead of cutting holes in the battery box to fit the large cables thru,I came up with a plan to use 8mm stainless hard ware and drill 8 mm holes in the fibreglass, and connect starter and earth leads each side of the fibreglass.Idiot me then drilled a small hole to bring in the alternator charging wire and a small earth wire to the battery terminals.These could have been connected to the 2 main terminals I made for the starter cables, and wouldn't had to bring any cables thru holes to the battery.I made an air fitting up and bolted it to the dash on the RH side near the roll bar.I am going to cut a hole in the fibreglass under the rear seat and make an ally box to hold air lines and keep any valuables out of sight.I didn't like the large hole around the VW fuel tank filler,so I tried some 3mm insertion rubber cut with a slightly smaller centre hole-it stays on there nicely and blocks an air getting in.
nbturbo ·
Been driving this for about 3 months now and really enjoying it.Will miss it when I sell it.Got sick of scuffing the body each time I climbed into it with my shoes.I put some clear sheet on the body,but that was always getting scuffed as well-so I had some spare time today and made some ally scuff plates.They are easy to polish any marks out of.Took a pic of 3 of my yellow toys.
Flintstones ·
loving the triplets Gary 😂
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dino- it's a shame the fourth member of the " yellow team" isn't playing ball- it could have got in the shot as well.
wombatventures ·
Looking Good Gary 👍
nbturbo ·
Have been serious about getting stuff together to start the next project-my Oval Beetle hot rod ute.Have ordered some new glass front guards from a mate of Brads from Westside.Bought a low km 93 Suby that has just had a lot of work done to it-new radiator,water pump,timing belts and new clutch.Will be putting an auto behind it,so gearbox and clutch can go.Thanks to some blokes on here,I have a place to send the loom for alteration to fit the Beetle.I have a new Repco under dash air con I bought 20 years ago,so it may get used at last.I have just finished doing new king and link pin bushes in some CB dropped spindles and I have a spare Country Bug front beam I will use.I only have a normal reamer for doing the bushes and have been trying to find an extender rod for ages with no luck.So yesterday I made my own guides.I machined up 2 guides,one the size of the new bush prior to reaming,and the other in the finished size.I use the smaller one first in one new bush while I ream the other,then swap to the finished size guide to do the second bush.It really works well.
nbturbo ·
I still haven't decided on the final outcome for suspension.I am seriously considering a full airbag set up from AirKewld in the US.I need to step up fairly soon,because the front beam needs a lot of rework to fit the air shocks and the torsion bars need to go.If so,that would be a waste of the CB beam,so would use just a standard one and modify that.I will use the CB steering wheel,but will have it pearled when I decide on final body colours.
nbturbo ·
I tried my new toy out on the Buggy earlier this week,and did the 64 today.Still need a lot more practice yet-but I think I am getting better at it.