Aussieveedubbers · Tech Talk

Mexican Seal

https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/106859/mexican-seal

Paul Smith ·

I've heard a Mexican style seal can be used instead of the standard PITA around the boot lid. Where in Aus can I buy one? Does the standard channel that the original type seal sits in have to be removed and if so how?

vwo60 ·

You can buy a welting that has a rubber seal on one side from Clark Rubber, it comes in two sizes and I have used the smaller size as a inner seal on my pop out rear windows and would fit your application perfectly.
http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/rubber-and-flooring/rubber-extrusions-3/pinchweld-seal.html

Paul Smith ·

There are 13 options on that page. Which one are you referring to?

Bizarre ·

i used one that looked like this

Bizarre ·

probably #8 or #12

grumble ·

I have a couple of door rubbers from a Lada Niva with a similar profile PM if interested.

modnrod ·

XD-XF Falcon door rubbers can be used too, but Clark Rubber is cheap.
More options.......
http://uesint.com/shop/category/rubber-truck-trailer-emergency-vehicles/

hulbyw ·

Paul, I am looking at doing the same, however I understand you need the original style seal across the bonnet in front of the screen, as there is no flange on the rear of the bonnet to attach the Mex seal to in that area.
I also understand the original channel needs to be removed (drill out the spot welds with a special drill bit) except across in front of the screen, however I am hoping someone else can confirm this
Cheers..........Wayne

Governor ·

hulbyw wrote:Paul, I am looking at doing the same, however I understand you need the original style seal across the bonnet in front of the screen, as there is no flange on the rear of the bonnet to attach the Mex seal to in that area.
I also understand the original channel needs to be removed (drill out the spot welds with a special drill bit) except across in front of the screen, however I am hoping someone else can confirm this
Cheers..........Wayne
Yes you are correct, you still need the original seal for the rear as the Mexican style just fits to the actual bonnet and will not fit on the edge closest to the screen.
You will also have to remove the original metal channel on the body so the new seal will actually seal.

vw54 ·

If you want one cut to size and posted to you ring VVDS 02-9789-1777

they have the right stuff on the shelf

Bizarre ·

hulbyw wrote:Paul, I am looking at doing the same, however I understand you need the original style seal across the bonnet in front of the screen, as there is no flange on the rear of the bonnet to attach the Mex seal to in that area.
I also understand the original channel needs to be removed (drill out the spot welds with a special drill bit) except across in front of the screen, however I am hoping someone else can confirm this
Cheers..........Wayne
I disagree.
First of all, you don't need to drill it out. Just pry a bit up and get hold with a pair of plyers and pull. Weakest spot welds ever.

As for the top lip. Get rid of it. That is the seal that rusts the most and eats into the body.
Clean it up and preferably weld up the 2 holes that "lock / hold" the seal to stop ingress of water. A strip of rubber say 20mm X 3mm stuck across the top seals beautifully.
My bug lived outside 24/7 and was the most waterproof with this set up.

vw54 ·

Baz

I have used the origional type seal cut down on the top scuttle
never had any problems with it sits nice been there for 12 years now

Bizarre ·

Dave, I am positive your babies live under cover. The only time my cars see cover is when I fill up with petrol.

That to seal, especially on later models, is notorious for rotting out on that top seal in front of the screen. Muck gets under that channel and just sits there.

If your car lives out side you are better to get rid of anything that is likely to promote rust

vwo60 ·

http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/pinchweld-epdm-rub-ex-lge-depth-bulb.html
This is the one I used on my pop outs, measure up ands select the one for your job.

68AutoBug ·

Hi Paul

I actually bought Mine from VVDS in Sydney when I first heard of them..
but its the same as the Clark rubber etc type..

I have had an original WCM new seal in a cupboard since 2002
I just used silastic or some other similar material to block up the two holes..
I do have a strip of black foamy material across the top..

I took the rusty channels off before it was painted..

Never had any water in the boot problems...

Also use the mexican type seal on the engine lid..

Lee

vw54 ·

That to seal, especially on later models,
Get a Torsion bar car then you wont have any problems all those struts banging around causing distortion in the body work

Paul Smith ·

Thanks guys. Very good info. 🙂

matberry ·

vw54 wrote:
That to seal, especially on later models,
Get a Torsion bar car then you wont have any problems all those struts banging around causing distortion in the body work
😂😂😂😂

hulbyw ·

I am glad Paul asked this question. As usual I have learned heaps. Not sure whether I am brave enough to just pry then yank the rusty channel with pliers though. But they have to go, one way or another.

Cheers....Wayne

helbus ·

I would use a belt sander, also called a power file to remove the channel. They come in air and electric models. I believe Bunnings have a cheap electric Ryobi verson available called a power file

Bizarre ·

It will scare you how easily they came off

Have a look at my old car below



http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36756&page=3

Note what I did in pictures is not how it ended up after I sprayed it

I will try and dig a photo up of that

vw54 ·

the origional seal channel does come off easy

BUT take care or you will bend the scuttle section sanding would be better option

Joel ·

My bugs "Mexi seal" is just a mid 90s onwards Mazda boot rubber.

You can find them free at most wreckers

Along the front of the windscreen in the boot they can just be glued down if you want to get rid of the rust strip.

cam070 ·

I just used an old flat blade screwdriver in a chisel-like manner and hammer to remove the seal channel. It was surprisingly easy and revealed more rust spots that you would not otherwise even be aware of. Well worth the effort if you are going to the trouble of getting rid of rust.

Bizarre ·

the underside of what the strip will look like