I pulled a wreck into the shed today and stripped out the pan.It isn't as good as I thought-has a lot more rust than I remembered.
I was going to cut out the rear floor sections anyway,but I will have to do full pan halves now.Gives me more scope to change a few more things.I will cut the floors both sides tomorrow then get it blasted ready for welding.
I have to modify my jigs to fit the second torsion bar tube.I am going 6 inches longer this time and 3 inches higher.
vw54 ·
sounds interesting a new project
Camo ·
Looks like you have a great garage setup for doing all of this.
Keep the photos coming 👍
Kev
Kroozzn61 ·
A question if under the length of the tunnel has 2 x small rust holes can it be fixed and re regod or is it stuffed ? how is yours?
nbturbo ·
If only 2 small rust holes it can be fixed and shouldn't affect the rego- well not in SA any way. I will put some more pics of mine on later - there is nothing left, only the centre spine. I will make new pan halves from 2mm flat plate and it will fly thru rego here.
nbturbo ·
Thanks to somebody on here who put me onto these power window kits,it arrived today.Really good value if the motors give a reasonable life cycle.Ther is plenty of bits in the box.I cut both pan halves out today-pointless having the blaster doing stuff that is being cut out anyway.I finished overhauling the king and link pins in the dropped spindles and put some colour on them.
vw54 ·
Can you send me 2 boxes of your enthusiasm PLEASE
I am having trouble getting motivated but with your pics I may get going
nbturbo ·
Maybe if you had a Drag Car that you had been building for 10 years and had been pissed around by every expert this side of everywhere,and it's still not going- you would look for any new project to divert the "I'm truly over it " feeling.I can't box it up,but it's sure given me a new sensation and I'm loving it.
Kroozzn61 ·
👍Cheers Nbturbo ive got a donor pan but looking at its orignal and its still pretty good except a few very small holes?
ill be watching this thread for sure. 👍
nbturbo ·
Came up with a simple way to do the rear of the cab and look sort of factory.I have cut a B pillar from the wreck and tried it on the opposite side.I can cut the the body I am using at the desired length and graft this piece in.I will patch over where the striker went,then bring the sheet metal to close the back in right up to the double skin where the pinch mould originally went.Here I can drill the sheet metal and plug weld it to the grafted in piece.It will be easy to weld a panel on the inside full length and fill the hole where the windows once went.I will be keeping the Semaphores on this one and have them working.
wombatventures ·
I can see this as being a thread to watch Gary. 😎
nbturbo ·
I hope so. Was over your way last weekend. My Daughter has bought a house in Orroroo and she started work there last Tuesday. It was one of my Grand Daughters 14th birthday,so went for a visit. Guess I will be spending a fair bit of time there now. Will try n get to Peterborough one trip n catch up
wombatventures ·
Always welcome mate.
Notch is off the road for a few weeks. needs a new battery and a service. Want it running right for Dubs by the River in September.
nbturbo ·
Just finished doing the IRS arm mods to swap them to opposite sides.Picked up my Suby donor car on the weekend.
Somebody has taken the air con belt tensioner/adjuster wheel should be easy to replace.Have stripped one of my graveyard bugs to start cutting bits out to repair my Oval Body.
The best part of this body are the heater channels-they are perfect when everything else is rusted out.I will use the gutters from both sides to make the roof line and rear of the cab on my ute body.I have just stripped a Country Buggy front beam to use,and it has split torsion bars like a Beetle.
I thought all CB's had 1 piece torsion bars.I need to cut 40mm out to cover the extra width of the dropped spindles,and was going to weld in adjusters-but I just bit the bullet and purchased a full air ride kit from Airkewld in the US,so wont need adjusters now.
bevoracing ·
So, can I have the CB front beam now Gary?? Been waiting 10 years for you to get sick of it. 😂
nbturbo ·
You wouldn't recognise it now Tony- it's in 2 pieces,40mm narrower and I have cut the insides of the shock towers to clear the body.Will weld it all back together tommorrow.There are no signs of wear on any of the bearing surfaces of the suspension arms- it hasn't done a lot of work.From memory, I reckon I found it laying in the dirt in King Earthmovers yard.
nbturbo ·
Got one side shock tower done tonight.
nbturbo ·
Cut out the original top shock anchor and machined a new one - shorter so as not to poke out the back with 12x 1.5 thread.I welded a small piece of 16x3mm flat bar down the tower to give some more strength, but not interfere with the shocker.
nbturbo ·
I made these beam extenders tonight.From their Website,sometimes the front air shocks won't lift the car back up for several reasons-not enough air,front suspension arms a little too tight etc.They suggest these extenders are a good idea for all air ride front ends.I have ordered the lower shock mount extenders-the bottom shocker pivot point is moved 50mm further away from the lower arm pivot point-to make lifting easier and to give a bit better ride.
nbturbo ·
Tony-pretty sure you won't want it now.This is what it took to keep it all square.
bevoracing ·
It'll do the job nicely Gary. Good stuff.
nbturbo ·
Decided I will use the same Speedy rims as I just fitted to my Oval-but discovered they don't do 19x9.5 any longer.I contacted their Sales dept and found out that they have just bought back a lot of stock from an Agent in LA who has closed shop.My luck,there were a few 19x9.5's in the list with an ET of 30 which works OK for me.I could only get 19x8.5 under the back guards on my Oval,but the Hot Rod will have much wider guards.
nbturbo ·
Got a bit more done today.I am going to shift the handbrake and gear shifter back 150mm and raise them both up 60mm.I cut the bits I need from a rusty pan,and will splice it on top of the base pan.There is a bit of work to get the handbrake cable steel tubes into position.I am going to use the existing heater levers on one side of the handbrake lever to operate the heater tap to a hotrod heater, which will go behind the seats.I plan on plumbing it into the existing heater tubes in the heater channels,and bring the hot air into the cab like a standard Beetle.I have a pair of Mitsubishi Starion seats for the job.I refurbished some Superbug pedals for it,and just cut the clutch pedal off the sleeve and machined all the weld marks out.I cut the brake pedal off and bent the pedal inwards.I cut a small piece from the clutch pedal and used it to strengthen the brake pedal.I have a new VW auto pedal rubber coming,so will cut some flat steel to suit and weld it to the pedal.My Oval body has some bad rust in the heater channels,so I cut a channel from the Beetle I am using for donor bits.It looked pretty good before I cut it,but ended up being bad around the A pillar area.I have ordered 2 heater channel front repair sections and ordered front pan half replacements as well.They list the front sections as being 27 inches long,so they should come back to where the front of the seats should be.
nbturbo ·
Cleaned up the back of the pan tonight ready to start welding the 2 torsion bar tubes together.Got it bolted in position.My new rims for the back turned up today-so bolted 1 onto my Oval to see if all the calculations were OK.Got 18mm of rim clearance on the inside lip-heaps.
nbturbo ·
new rims.
nbturbo ·
Finished all the fuel,handbrake and heater tap steel tubes in the pan today.I have fitted a 10mm supply and 8mm return line.I will fit the Bosch pump on top of the pans original torsion bar tube,and will use the Suby original inline fuel filter just after the pump.Started to fit the auto shifter and the top plastic cover tonight.The shifter will be 7 inches further back than the OG manual shift lever.I have decided to run the copper tubes for the airconditioner inside the pan as well.Ordered some threaded brass fittings today which I will silver solder to each end of the copper tube.Ordered -10,-8 and -6 fittings.I have done another conversion on this pan to use LH drive master cylinders.I have 2 spare 22mm cylinders.
nbturbo ·
and some more
Boozo ·
looking good. can't wait to see more
nbturbo ·
Ended up with 3/8" pressure line and 1/2" suction line for the air con.Bought weld on fittings with O ring hose ends.Had me beat how I was going to secure the fittings at each end so they didn't move around,and didn't turn while tightening the hoses.Came up with this idea.I have to sacrifice 4 off 3/4" sockets,but its turned out real good.I drilled out the sockets to clear the copper tube,then cut the a slot in the side for the tube to slip thru,drop the fitting back into the socket,then put a small hose clamp around it to stop any movement.Got one end done.I will make the piece I cut from the tunnel a removable panel.I have kept them on the left side to not obstruct the dip switch.
nbturbo ·
I have started to fabricate the rear engine/trans support bar work.I have to cut into the torsion bar housing to shift the trans forward 20mm for the CV's to line up.It's probably not that critical though.I am thinking of setting the trans up with a slight incline up to give the Suby sump some more ground clearance.Has any body done this before and if so,how much have you lifted the front of the tranny above horizontal?
nbturbo ·
Does anybody on here have any contact with John at Volks Conversions? I received an email from him early last week about buying a Suby adaptor from him- but haven't had any further response to any emails or phone calls since. Is he OK?
nbturbo ·
I have worked out if I lift the bell housing to give the top of it 10mm gap from the vertical, lifts the front of the Suby motor 25mm. I believe the modified sumps available are 50mm shorter- so would be a good result.
beetleboyjeff ·
He was at Valla - that may be why you couldn't get hold of him
nbturbo ·
OK - that would be it. Thanks.
nbturbo ·
He phoned me this morning.He reckons the weekend was awesome.I have finally nailed the front trans mount.I machined a steel sleeve to take 2 red spring shackle bushes I got from Ebay to fit a Courier 4wd.I welded it with some strengthening ribs to the pan.Then fabbed up a plate with lugs that bolts to the trans.I think it will be strong enough.
nbturbo ·
I had to cut a relief into the bottom of the torsion bar tube for the shift cable bracket to clear everything.The -6 elbow on the front of the trans is a modification that Aarron has done to be able to run an oil cooler system.
Flintstones ·
Looks sturdy!
1cut808 ·
Yeah man.. Cool!
nbturbo ·
Got some more done-mounted the fuel pump up front and made up all the front brake lines.Made a new steel auto pedal pad and welded it on.I ordered an adaptor plate from Sherman and had to do some work to make it fit-all good now.I have gone back to using the 2.0 quad cam motor I previously bought, but hoping all the accessories swap over.Will pick it up this weekend.It's a bare motor,so will be really good for doing all the fabrication stuff around it.I bought an original Suby fuel filter and took the mounting bracket from my donor-fits neatly at the back between the 2 torsion bar tubes.The Rabbit tailgate Rod got for me in LA has arrived and will have to do some thinking about the best way to make it work-a long way off yet.I am held up with all the stuff I ordered from the US and is on the water right now-about 3 weeks away.I need all the rear air bag stuff so I can build the engine/trans support chassis around it.
nbturbo ·
Some more
nbturbo ·
Picked up the Quad cam engine I bought about 12 months ago for this.It was in a Gyrocoptor,but came with no accessories.
nbturbo ·
finished my first air ride conversion-RH front was first.Had to do a bit of grinding to make the lower arm shock extender fit squarely.The bolt they supplied was way too short,so found a better one to use.
Flintstones ·
Cool,
I see the floor pan is progressing well also, looks familiar 🙂
nbturbo ·
Wasn't happy with the arc of travel of the front control arm.Did some measuring and trial movement and decided that the top mount needed to be shifted.I lifted it 40mm and got a better angle for the bag to lift after it has been fully deflated.Machined some 25mm round bar and threaded 12x1.5 holes for the new top mounts.When it's fully deflated,it will sit 140mm lower than my Oval as it is now-should have the tyres sitting on the headlight buckets.
nbturbo ·
Assembled the front brake rotors and fitted them today.I want to get it ready to put wheels on it so I can check the range of suspension movement.Got one rear bag almost done.Took a lot of tack welding,check movement,cut weld and reposition.I have set it up with the 2 plates to locate the bag,parallel with each other where I reckon the suspension will sit while travelling.
nbturbo ·
some more
nbturbo ·
Finished the LH rear air bag and built the rear cage to support it all.Cage is only tacked in place now-but will wait until everything is made before I do a full weld.
nbturbo ·
Made the engine mount today.I have some old EH Holden front engine mounts,which I have adapted to fit this.Using the OG Bus top trans mount holes.Put some wheels on the front and chocked the rear the same height as the wheels I will be using,then let it down.It just clears a Pepsi can on it's side.
nbturbo ·
The engine and trans are now self supporting.
nbturbo ·
For the Subaru experts please.There is an arm and pivots on the intake manifold on the front, which I assume controls a flap inside the manifold.What does it do and is it needed to make it run??
mackaymanx ·
You have a dual intake runner manifold, small runner for idle- low rpm- large runners for high rpm. Should be vacuum actuated at a set rpm to change over.
I've found the ECU and the four channel igniter to suit. I'll look from the loom if you are interested.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Brent-just read your complete story about the conversion-well done.Looks like I have a lot of work still in front of me to just get the motor running.I had contact with a Bloke who does the wiring looms to suit a VW.He thinks the ECU and loom from the dual cam motor will run this-provided it hasn't variable cam timing.The cam sensor looks the same as the dual cam one.I can get rid of the coil on plug set up and use the earlier 4 post coil and normal plug leads.If you have that stuff-would be easier than having to strip out my donor car.I found this laying on top of the motor-I assume its a knock sensor-where is it's normal home on the motor?
mackaymanx ·
Go to the pictures of the coolant manifold reversal and you will see the knock sensor in the background.
Found it-this one hasn't had a bolt in that hole for a very long time.
mackaymanx ·
This should be the loom/ECU to run that motor correctly, will need some TLC and repair. Only kept this as the ecu plugs are the same as the Link G3+ I have.
nbturbo ·
Can you send me a PM please- I can't send any, but can answer any that come to me. Thanks.
nbturbo ·
Welded in the last 2 bars tonight to finish the cage to hold it all together.Mounting the radiator and air con condenser next.I had the gas taken from the aircon today and should be able to use most of the OG pipes and hoses as well as the dryer location.
nbturbo ·
Radiator and air con condenser are in and used all the OG hardware.Had to slightly modify some bits,but if replacements are ever needed EBay.
nbturbo ·
made a bracket to fit the OG Suby air con drier-just twisted the pipe and put it on the other side or the radiator.The air con compressor and alternator all swapped over from the single cam motor.
nbturbo ·
I hooked up the cooling fans yesterday and made them run backwards-didn't end well.When they were running backwards,they didn't produce as much air as when going the correct way and made a strange noise.I checked the cause-the blades have a fixed curve in them to make more air and run quiet.Decided to remove everything,and put the fans on the other side of the radiator and try it.Fans are running the correct way,make heaps of air,run fairly quiet and are bringing air across them as in the standard set up.Had to shift all the brackets to shift the radiator closer to the motor.Made the top radiator locating pins to be now part of a full width deflector panel which will force all the incoming engine bay air through the radiator.
nbturbo ·
some more
Camo ·
I still say we need a 'LIKE' button on these forums 👍
Kev
nbturbo ·
A couple of Suby questions-is there an adaptor already available to bolt to the air flow meter to take a pod filter,or do you have to make your own?There is a valve on the intake manifold,just near the throttle body-is it for cold starting?It has a large hose going to the intake pipe,2 water hoses and a small loom.
mackaymanx ·
That is the idle control valve, yes it is for cold start but works all the time at idle. Get some carby cleaner and go to town on it to clean it up. Move the cylindrical valve around to get right in there.
nbturbo ·
Anybody know if an adaptor for a pod filter is available to suit the Suby air flow meter?I cant find anything.
mackaymanx ·
Kennedy Engineering make something, no idea how good it is but come with a muffler in reduce intake noise. Designed for T3 use, no idea what it looks like without the muffler bit or whether is comes seperately.
Nice job mate can you please tell me where you got the air bag kit from.
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Thanks Brent-looks like my Tig and lathe are going to get a workout for the pod filter mount.The bloke got the loom and reckons it's all good-just a few small jobs-thanks for that as well.
Kiwiev-got it all from Airkewld in the States.Got the 2 rear bags,front shocks and front lower arm extenders,the rear top and bottom plates and the bag air fittings.I will get the solenoids,switches,guages and hose from somebody here.You could probably get it all here,but I am hoping Airkewld got the correct weight bags and shocks for a Beetle's weight needs.They don't give very good fitting instructions,so it was a lot of tack weld-try-cut-reweld-try-etc.I am also a bit luckier because it doesn't all have to fit under a Beetle body.They cut a large amount from the rear suspension arm to keep the bag low enough so that the top bag mount will fit under the body.The rear suspension arm is really compromised for strength.I mounted my lower plate on the arm without any need to cut into it at all.The fronts were a major PITA,trying to get the arc of travel correct.I had a look at their website about the top mount extenders,and copied theirs fairly close.When the suspension was fully depressed,the lower arm and shock alignment were almost a straight line,which would have been impossible for the shock to inflate and extend.I worked out the travel arc and fabricated new top mounts to suit.Also had to get the bumpstop in the right place to prevent the shocker bottoming out before the stops were hit.
kiwiev ·
Thanks for that mate I was thinking of baging the rear of my super bug eventually I have to pull body off replace one pan and do the dreaded death foam. Has anyone you know of done oval window in a super bug? Dont mind fibre glass or steel handy with both.
Thinking of installing twin AC electric motors 250 Hp 250 ft lb and Tesla batteries.
Thanks for the advice
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
kiwiev wrote:Thanks for that mate I was thinking of baging the rear of my super bug eventually I have to pull body off replace one pan and do the dreaded death foam. Has anyone you know of done oval window in a super bug? Dont mind fibre glass or steel handy with both.
Thinking of installing twin AC electric motors 250 Hp 250 ft lb and Tesla batteries.
Thanks for the advice
Cheers Kiwi
I don't understand your meaning of "oval in a superbug" ? If you mean Oval body on a Superbug pan- yes the body will fit any IRS/ ball joint pan. Rear body support to floor pan is the only difference - just need to modify the bracket on the Oval body to suit. It's a really good conversion if your into the small window body.The 2 front body mounts may need slight mods.
kiwiev ·
Oval rear window I heard there was panel you could cut and weld or even a fibre glass panel.
But a body swap is food for thought too.
Thanks Kiwi
beetleboyjeff ·
An oval body won't go onto a superbug pan without also changing the frame head on the pan to a beam, so you will lose the struts. It will go onto any other beam pan (K&L or BJ), but the oval body doesn't have the mounts for the top of the struts etc.
I have seen those oval conversions, but I don't know who does them unfortunately.
nbturbo ·
Kiwiev- as I stated the Oval body will fit any IRS/ ball joint pan- but a lot of work. I googled the oval conversion and found a hinged panel that fills the big back window with a split conversion - couldn't find who makes them. Will spend a bit more time chasing it.
kiwiev ·
Thanks mate
I want to keep the super bug body and pan as it has front disc brakes and struts, I have got wide front 67 look fiberglass guards and wide fibreglass rear guards.
I was trying to get the old look.
And as I have the death foam rust around rear window was wanting to continue the old look, split rear window does sound cool.
So what body look are you looking for with your rod?
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
I have a complete 54 and a bare 56 body only- the 56 is in fairly good shape at the fro nt but ordinary around the arse end. Won't bother me to cut it in half to make a ute body.
nbturbo ·
Is it critical which way the air flow meter sits? Does the electrical switch housing have to be on top? I would like it to be 90 degrees from on top.
nbturbo ·
Finished my air filter pod to air flow meter adaptor.I had an old turbo that went down hard real early in the Drag Car build.I cut the intake flange off,machined it round to fit in some 10mm ally plate.Welded it on the meter side,then machined it flat for the O ring to seal.
nbturbo ·
Drilled and threaded for 6mm bolts.
kiwiev ·
Nice work mate do you have a photo of it sitting on?
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Which part Kiwiev??
kiwiev ·
The air pod sensor on motor if you have got that far just trying to visualize it.
On another note do you have a link to your power window kit looking for something for the 66 bug.
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
I have it just sitting in position-but think I may cut most of the plastic intake pipe off and mount the air flow meter just after the bend which will have the pod filter inside my support frame.I will be making an alloy cover to go over the whole engine and transmission, to ensure all air coming into the engine bay goes thru the radiator.The pod filter will also be in this air flow.I have finished the rear frame today-it's all tacked together.I may fit a diagonal brace between the top and bottom side engine bars.It's really strong as it is-I can lift the whole pan from the rear bar without any deflection.I will be fabricating a tow bar to weld to the rear lower bar.
nbturbo ·
I managed to find a home for the radiator overflow bottle which is out of the way but still close enough for a joiner hose.
Thanks mate for the link im concerned about relying on the winder mechanism, I will wait and see how your pan out.
Love the idea of the radiator facing rear what sort of rear end panels are you boing to use to cover the motor etc?
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
I am a long way off from doing the windows. I guess like everything else,there will be a lot of modifications. I am doing 1 piece windows in this car.I did them in my Oval and they are so easy to wind.Those electric motors will have no trouble moving the glass if the window regs are the same as the Oval's. I have had new glass made with the dark tint in the glass.I won't know how I'm going to cover the motor until I am ready to do it. I have a few ideas- but it will all fall into place as I'm doing it. The side panels will be the same as my Drag Car,but this one will need to have a lot of heat and road grime protection. Will also need a sealed area for travel bags etc.
wombatventures ·
Going awesome there Gary!
When are you running the drag car next? will have to come for a look..
Can't wait to see the rod finished.
nbturbo ·
Some time in November is the next meet if all goes well with the club.Hot rod is a bigger project than I imagined - had the old rose coloured glasses on when I dreamed this up. Should have known better after the Drag Car. In too deep now.
nbturbo ·
Had to get back on the lathe tonight.The front air shocks have an 1/8th inch plastic line to inflate them.I want to use 1/4inch high pressure line on the whole car.I searched for an adaptor of any sort-nothing available.The fitting on the shocker is 7/16th UNF,so bought some bolts and made the first one.I will silver solder the fitting into the steel boss I made.I threaded the hole to 1/4 bsp to take the brass 1/4inch connectors.I will weld the boss to the front beam in an appropriate spot where I can keep the 1/8th line to a minimum.
nbturbo ·
The finished product.I ended up welding in one more support to transfer any undue stress back into the torsion bar tubes.The two 25mm uprights at the air con condenser can now be cut out-not necessary any longer.
kiwiev ·
Awesome work Bro this thing will bunny hop with 1/4" line. Has summerNats written all over her.
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Your onto it Kiwi- bucket list- Summernats and Denni ute muster.
nbturbo ·
Finished the air line adaptors at last.Took a lot of machining to get the hose and O ring to grip tight inside my fitting.Made it to bolt on so it won't get damaged when the pan is blasted and painted.
wombatventures ·
?Have you modified the Type 3 auto box at all to take the extra power from the scoobie engine.
nbturbo ·
Yes,it's been to Qld to get the Aaron Roberts work over.He does a lot of mods to handle the power and better shifting quality. Also got modified to run an external cooler. This is a 003 trans on a Bus diff.He is yet to do a converter overhaul for me as well.
wombatventures ·
👍
Will have to have a yarn about this in the future mate. Got some ideas that may happen in the future.
nbturbo ·
I will message you when I am heading to Orroroo one weekend and catch up with you
kiwiev ·
Are you going to Denni muster this year or next year?
I might be keen next year have a Toyo Hilux electric of course 🙅 just converting now
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Come on Kiwi- I'm not that quick-reckon I have at least a year ahead of me to get it to paint stage.It took me 3 hours today to make and fit the tabs to hold the flexible brake hoses for the rear arms. They have to clear the air bag base plates thru full movement. Took another 2 hours to reposition the air con filter/dryer for the pipes to clear everything . So Denni is a way off atm
nbturbo ·
Kiwi- I have ordered every fitting I need for the air system( they are high pressure, brass push loc type) and the whole system will be 8mm tubing. Experts say this is better for rapid bag filling. Have tracked down some twin port solenoid valves with in built exhaust ports for easier bag deflation. Will put one at each end. Found some air gauges with twin needles, so will only need 2 gauges on the dash , but need 4 switches
nbturbo ·
Kiwi- what's the latest on your Beetle conversion then??
kiwiev ·
My mate is coming over tomorrow he has been busy. So tomorrow hope to mount controller and chiller system, measure up battery boxes.
Have to push two pieces of conduct down the tramission tunnel from the front to run the 50mm power cables .
I know what you mean about time I spent 5 hours repositioning the manual gearbox rear mount to move the gearbox forward 30mm so I could lift the motor up to clear the steering arm.
So when do you think you will have the airbags operating?
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Kiwi-have you got that right-50mm power cables.You can run 60,000 volts thru that size cable.I will run 1/2" high pressure air line down the tunnel and push the 8mm tube inside it.The 1/2" line is easy to push thru and I will use electrical gland fittings at each end to keep the water out.I guess a larger diameter tube would also be easy to push thru for you to run cables inside.
kiwiev ·
Sorry Greg 50mm2 which is about 16mm diameter, I thru up a couple of pics on my thread, also fitted some gland nuts near where the gear linkage hooks to gearbox just have to get some 20mm conduct.
Measured up battery boxes had to make the front one out of the box so to speak to get in round the steering coupling and sit down where the fuel tank was.
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Progress has been a bit slow.I have finished making all new brake pipes and modified the OG Suby throttle cable to suit.Will use a cable joiner somewhere above the trans.I am waiting on a lot of stuff-all the air line fittings,a silicone intake elbow,and a heap of insulated P clips for the fuel pipes.I made the supply and return fuel pipes to connect to the Suby OG fuel lines on the motor.I bought a 3 inch exhaust elbow,and will make the intake pipe from it.Have to weld a few fittings onto it for breathers etc.
nbturbo ·
I need to pick a Subaru expert's brain.This is my first venture into these things-so know nothing.I bought a loom and ECU and sent it to AGT to have it modified.When I got it back there was nothing to connect to the engine.So figured I needed an engine loom.The one I found came from a 7/94 Liberty GX,but the 3 plugs are way different to the modified loom.There are also 3 small plugs about half way along the loom which I have no idea what they fit.I will post a pic of the ECU loom and somebody might recognise what model I need to get an engine loom from.The engine I am using is a quad cam with coil on plug set up.There is an alloy box on the loom which could be to do with firing the plugs.There is also a small 3 wire clear plug on the loom near the 3 big plugs, which I need an answer for.
mackaymanx ·
2nd photo Crank angle sensor, Cam angle sensor and oxygen sensor. Blue is not standard but from the position probably the knock sensor.
3rd photo 1st gray plugs should be the engine earths( That bit I have). Clear plug I do not recognise but may be for the vacuum control for the butterfly.
I will keep looking for an engine loom for you, have found the earth side but nothing else so for. Didn't know you were also missing the engine loom.
nbturbo ·
Ok thanks- really appreciate your help. I should be all over this Suby stuff in a couple of years
nbturbo ·
Another question-why are there 3 wires going to the Suby cooling fans? Know the black one is earth,why are there 2 power wires?
mackaymanx ·
High and Low speed
nbturbo ·
Had the rear suspension arms blasted and painted,so assembled all the bearings and drive shafts today.Fitted the Ford ED rear disc conversion I did and bolted on the rims to check for clearance.All is OK.I chocked up the rims with wooden blocks to imitate with tyres fitted,with all 4 corners bottomed out,I have a level floor pan both sides with 75mm clearance under the side lip where the body is bolted on.Made a new intake pipe from a 3 inch exhaust elbow and machined up some threaded spigots 1/4 BSP and tigged them to attach the rocker cover breathers.Also machined a 25mm barbed fitting to hook up the hose for the idle air control.
nbturbo ·
The pod filter sits low behind the LHR wheel,but it will be protected by splash guards and will only get air from inside the engine bay.
kiwiev ·
Love those wheels Greg.
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Dug out the plug I had made for my Drag Car rear guards and had another 2 made for this.He put a similar colour in the gel coat to the final colour of the guards.It's to make stone chips less obvious.Already got the fronts for it.
nbturbo ·
Finally located some 285/35/19's for the back wheels that didn't cost the National Debt.If I had known that they would be so hard to get at a reasonable price,I could have gone to 20x10's with tyres available everywhere.Fitted them up and put a guard in position to check out clearances.It has worked out perfect at first shot.The tape measure indicates where the floor pan is on my Oval which I have set fairly low-big difference.But it will allow me plenty of suspension travel when I pump the bags up for cruising.
nbturbo ·
Couple more.The angle clamped to the temp uprights will be close to where the top of the tray will end up when finished.
nbturbo ·
Spent all day on it today.Have finished all the welding to get the handbrake and auto shifter installed.With the second piece of tunnel welded on top-I have lifted it all up 60mm and they are both positioned 150mm further back from standard.When I strip the shifter assembly down to overhaul it,I will bend the shift lever so that it sits vertical when it's in park.Just need about 15 minutes with a 60 grit flap disc and it will look OK.I will make 2 small screw on panels to fill the gap each side of the shifter.I will all be covered with carpet.I have thought about building a jig for doing the rear suspension arm cross switch.I will weld these IRS pivot brackets and some cut down brake backing plates to a length of C channel like they are sitting in the pic.I will also make a jig to locate the lower shocker bolt hole.When all the bits are cut off,just swap the arms over,bolt up the shocker bracket and weld it all back together.The ones I have already done,its a bit of a PITA to try and line everything back up.
nbturbo ·
Stripped the auto shifter apart and blasted everything.I had to refurbish the locking pawls for all the gear positions-fairly worn after so many years.Painted it all and assembled with plenty of grease- better now than when new.I pulled the plastic cover apart and cleaned everything,blackened the lever brushes with boot polish and polished the clear plastic lever position on the brass polisher,but very carefully.It polishes up like new.Clear coated the lot.Modified the hand brake lever to an early type,then decided to make it 30mm shorter,so could have used the OG 6 volt lever.Gave it a coat of metallic silver.I am going to fit the power window switches just behind the auto shifter,and needed a bit more room.Found a Type3 lever with the plastic handle,cleaned it and gave it a new home.
wombatventures ·
Can I drop our Superbug to you when you finish this. At least it will get done which is more than ever happens around here!
Love the refurb on the shifter. Time I got onto our projects.
nbturbo ·
Thanks mate - lucky to even get near it. Got home yesterday from a week in Orroroo. Been doing some serious house renos for Daughters newly purchased place, then a 70th birthday show on Saturday and hangover repairs yesterday.A large bottle of Jack snuck up on me Saturday and bashed me over the head.One day I will come over to see your stuff. Will be having Xmas there.
wombatventures ·
Happens this time of year. We're headed towards VW central for Xmas. Sunshine coast. Will get stuck into the projects in the new year.
nbturbo ·
Does any body know which year Beetle the 1 piece winder mechanism comes from.When I bought my Oval,they were already installed (but very poorly-spent quite a few hours to get them to work OK) I thought the winders came from a curved screen Bug-but I have just stripped one out and it's nothing like my Ovals winder.The first 2 are from my Oval which has 2 attaching points for the window runner and the other has only 1 anchor point.
Flintstones ·
Gary, I'm no guru, I though the early Split beetles had the one piece windows?
nbturbo ·
Good day Dino- yes they did have them- but window regs would not exist. I have just found new ones available on Cip's web site and only $50 US each- problem solved. The early splittys also had crutch coolers which I plan on fitting as well- provided I can find something suitable. I have found a 1950 Morris truck wreck I can cut them from, but may find something closer to the originals.
vduboy ·
nbturbo wrote:Anybody know if an adaptor for a pod filter is available to suit the Suby air flow meter?I cant find anything.
Saas make them, you can get them at supercheap auto, about $16 realise this is a old post but figured someone would like to know if you have already made one.
nbturbo ·
Thanks for the heads up- would have saved me a lot of work.
kiwiev ·
hey mate happy new year good to see you are making progress.
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Thanks Kiwi-you are way ahead of me on progress.I have been back to it today.Flap disc on all the tunnel welds.The rear lower engine frame bars have been pissing me off for a long time.They weren't parallel to the top ones-so cut the supports and rear uprights out-jacked it all up into position and rewelded.Happy now.I had to make another lower radiator mounting bar (3rd one so far-better be it now) I have made a small ally panel to go behind the shifter for the power window switches-I will cover it in vinyl.I am also in the process of doing a Suby/Bus auto conversion on a 74 Kombi.I pulled the Suby engine and wiring loom and ECU yesterday Would have to be the worst job I have ever done.The Suby RH A pillar had been crushed,so made it impossible to get the dash out.Had to Cut the pillar out and bend the front windscreen panel up.This one doesn't have a separate engine loom and the ECU was up under the dash on the RH side.Had to pull heater,air con and everything else there to get the loom out.Is there any call on the 4 wd transmissions.Or just send them to the scrap yard with the body.
nbturbo ·
This is the start of the Kombi project.What has been found to be the best solution for radiator location in the Kombi conversions?
nbturbo ·
The one on the left arrived today.At last I can now shorten both ends of the steering arms.
vw54 ·
Left hand thread taps hard to find
nbturbo ·
I have wanted one for years,so had a look on ebay.$23 delivered from OS.Why did it take me so long? I have ordered a rag sunroof for the Hotrod.Found a place in the US that does a 20 inch long version for small utes.Got it in grey canvas with a grey headliner.Ordered an extra 3 yards of headliner fabric to do the rest of the head liner as well as the back wall of the cab.
Fat Boy ·
Great build buddy!!
nbturbo ·
Thanks Fat Boy.I have made another ally switch panel for the 4 air bag solenoids which fits in front of the shift lever.I have now found this switch with compressor on it,so have to do a rethink.I will mount it with the bag switches.
nbturbo ·
mackaymanx wrote:2nd photo Crank angle sensor, Cam angle sensor and oxygen sensor. Blue is not standard but from the position probably the knock sensor.
3rd photo 1st gray plugs should be the engine earths( That bit I have). Clear plug I do not recognise but may be for the vacuum control for the butterfly.
I will keep looking for an engine loom for you, have found the earth side but nothing else so for. Didn't know you were also missing the engine loom.
Brent-any luck finding an engine loom?
kiwiev ·
Hi Gary WOW you have been busy, I started another thread I would like you thoughts if you have a minute mate.
Kiwiev- I am lost for words.Wish I had your energy.
nbturbo ·
Fitted the new compressor switch today.Made a new switch plate that now bolts in-will be a lot easier to fault find down the track if there are some electrical issues.Still waiting on another switch which I will use to isolate the interior lights from the door switches if needed.
nbturbo ·
Bought some black fabric this morning and some kwik grip.Decided to go with all black carpet,but grey seats,door trims and head lining.
nbturbo ·
Have never really been happy with the mods I did to the front beam for the air shocks to work.I copied what the air ride firm does to their beams.The top shock mount was too far away from the original shock pivot.It would make the bag harder to extend because of the overall shock and lower pivot point angle.Reckon it would also be ruff as guts to ride in.I cut it all off today and fabbed up new stuff.The top pivot is now only 10 mm away from a vertical line from the og position compared to about 70mm before.
kiwiev ·
nbturbo wrote:Bought some black fabric this morning and some kwik grip.Decided to go with all black carpet,but grey seats,door trims and head lining.
WOW mate you have been busy while I was away great work.
Your power window switches look cool have you powered up yet?
Cheers Kiwi
nbturbo ·
No- haven't touched it- doing 2 Bay Window Subi conversions. I ordered a 4 solenoid valve block and 2 twin air guages about 8 weeks ago from a supplier in Adelaide. Arrived late Wednesday arvo with no wiring or hose diagram. Next week. I want to try each bag to make sure they can lift the pan.
nbturbo ·
Been waiting for some sort of wiring and hose diagram to try my air bags out.Always waiting on somebody-pisses me off.Been leaving messages for 2 weeks and somebody finally answered the call last night.Was some miscommunication about the air gauges-I wanted black face/chrome bezel old school type.Got black bezel LED digital readout. Made my ally dash face plate for speedo and clock.Haven't decided yet to have it chromed,powder coated or go body colour.Was going with mounting screws from behind for the guages and 4 stainless bolts in each corner of the plate-went with exposed bolts for the guages and blind mounting for the plate.
kiwiev ·
Awesome work mate we must have the same energy lol
Keep it up Kiwi
nbturbo ·
Thanks-just finished putting my air bag solenoid back together.Thought it will be the only way I can figure it out.On top of it now.Like how it works.One side for inflate and the other for deflate.Reckon I will make 4 small ally manifolds with 3 fitting hole-one for the gauge and one each for up n down.Better than using T pieces.
vw54 ·
Do you have to get an Engineer to sign off on all the mods in SA ??
nbturbo ·
In SA when the pan has been modified,they must be registered as a "Tourer" body type. I have a Tourer registration that will end up on this car - all done.
nbturbo ·
mackaymanx wrote:2nd photo Crank angle sensor, Cam angle sensor and oxygen sensor. Blue is not standard but from the position probably the knock sensor.
3rd photo 1st gray plugs should be the engine earths( That bit I have). Clear plug I do not recognise but may be for the vacuum control for the butterfly.
I will keep looking for an engine loom for you, have found the earth side but nothing else so for. Didn't know you were also missing the engine loom.
I have tried many places to get an engine loom-wreckers,Suby Forum and ebay,but have had no luck.There are heaps on ebay,but none have the 3 grey plugs like this loom.What do you reckon it came from?
nbturbo ·
Haven't been near this for months-been bogged down doing Subi conversions in Bay window Bus's.Got the reinforcing bars in today and finally cut it in half.Have it booked for dipping in Adelaide,so needed to have it ready to go.Have cut the dash for the speedo/clock panel and welded in the braces to hold the 7 inch DVD player.I will put the 2 air bag gauges and the engine temp gauge where the ash tray used to be.
nbturbo ·
I had to make some changes to the mesh sunvisor I had restored - it's a good fit now.I will be making the body 130mm behind the B pillar,but I have cut it 165mm in case things don't go to plan.
nbturbo ·
After studying alansvw fantastic Ghia,decided to make some alterations to my dash.Want to fit this NOS Repco air con I bought about 20 years ago.Want it tucked up tight under the dash.So the cut off wheel came out and removed the whole bottom panel.Making a steel panel to raise the trunk area floor to allow the air con to be hidden when looking from inside.Had to relocate the 3 switches.
nbturbo ·
Air con sits up hard under the dash now.
vw54 ·
Your cutting metal there
nbturbo ·
Air con unit is in and finished.Tucks up nice and out of the way.Metal housing is sealed to prevent any normal Beetle fuel smell getting in and enough room for the air con fans to get plenty of air.Should get cold enough to give a brass monkey a scare.
nbturbo ·
After a week of grinding,cutting and welding,I finally have the pan finished.Got some new heater tubes,so have mounted them ready to attach the body.Fitted the new front pan sections and the flat rears I made from 2mm zinc steel.In hindsight,I should have chucked the new front pan halves into the scrap bin,and made my own.They are rubbish.I made the strengthening ribs under the pan from 30X30X2mm blue RHS and they are welded to the pan.
nbturbo ·
Have spent a couple of days fabricating new mounts to fit some Mitsubishi Starion seats I have had tucked away for many years.Also unpacked the sunroof I bought early last year to get ready to cut the hole in the roof.The alloy frame needs a little of bending at each end to get closer to the roof curve.Should be able to run it thru my rollers.
vw54 ·
Gary
I don't know where you get the time I have still plodding along on my Oval
nbturbo ·
Dave-it gets a bit frustrating with all the mods needed to do this stuff.I made the drivers outer seat mounts and welded everything to the pan and the reinforcing channel under the pan.Was admiring how good it was,then realised I couldn't get the body on or off over the mounts.Had to cut it all out and make them removable-another 4 hours of work.I am hoping that it it's a pleasure to drive when finished.Dave did you see the PM I sent you?
vw54 ·
the PM back in FEB let me know what you need
Cracker about the seats
nbturbo ·
Dave-looks like my PM stuff is out of action.Was wondering if you know where I can get my hands on an Oval glove box lid?
vw54 ·
Let me check into that
nbturbo ·
Pretty well finished the extension to the lower cab section.Got a storage area behind the passenger seat and a spot for the battery,isolator and possibly the ECU behind the drivers seat.Bought a universal heater and modified it to suit.Will blow across to an ally panel and fitting I have made.
nbturbo ·
Battery and isolator
nbturbo ·
Finished the seat brackets for the Mitsi seats.Got an air con compressor from a small Mazda-reckon I can mount it on the engine where the power steer pump was and drive it with the same belt.Can control the clutch with a high/low switch.I have cut 2 window frames from a wrecked Type3 wagon.Think I can make a 600X250 frame to weld into the back panel.Should be able to make a new rubber from 2 originals and also cut the ally flashing piece to suit.
nbturbo ·
Made the new window frame for the back of the cab.Ended up with the glass size 550X240. Can use two Beetle rear quarter window rubbers to make the one needed.
nbturbo ·
Got it ready now for a trip to the metal master.Pulled the 4 threaded plates out the doors screw up to.Tapped out the threads,grit blasted and zinc primed.Refitted and welded the lower retaining straps tighter.Hung the doors-good fit.Made some new anchors to attach the bonnet hinge springs.Tried to use some original retaining pins-but too weak.
nbturbo ·
Bottom one
vw54 ·
Great progress
nbturbo ·
These have got into my shed to slow down proceedings.
vw54 ·
Lock the door that will fix the problem
nbturbo ·
I am a soft touch for a good story.
nbturbo ·
Had my CB steering wheel treated to liven up the interior decor.
Flintstones ·
Build is looking good.
The wheel looks great, really suits the simple 3 spoke design!
nbturbo ·
I didn't get the CB flasher switch when I got the wheel.I want the indicators to be self cancelling like the CB's were.With the valuable help from old mate Tony Bevan-we believe the CB switches came from the German Fridolin.A mixture of late Split Bus switch and housing from the last of the US spec Oval Beetles after the semaphores were deleted.I have already purchased the Bus switch,thinking it would fit.No good,the Bus columns are 32mm diameter and Beetle is 40mm.I ordered the Beetle switch yesterday,so hope we are correct.The Bus switch handle didn't have a threaded shaft,so don't know how the knob attaches.I suspect the Bus knob is a lot longer than my Beetle one.Made this extension to bring the knob out level with the wheel.
nbturbo ·
The US spec flasher switch arrived.Unbelievable-it arrives with a Beetle 40mm housing and a Bus 32mm housing.Blasted and painted it to match wheel.Not happy with the silver wheel spokes,so will give them the switch colour.My early column has the horn contact bit missing.Decided to make the horn work like the 60's ones.Found a needle roller bearing-42x32x20.Reckoned I could make it fit.Cut out the black plastic bush,but the column was still a bit tight.Machined this spigot at 41.5 with a tapered lead.Gently heated the column and drove it in.When cooled pressed bearing in.A lot of work to get the CB wheel with self cancelling flashers.
nbturbo ·
Did initially plan on fitting repo 12volt semaphores.Change of plan.Found a NOS Hella Conversion Flasher Kit.Found some LED festoon globes to suit.
nbturbo ·
Wasn't happy with the silver spokes.Sanded,masked and hit them with 2 coats of hammertone Gun Metal.Suits the Pearl colour better
nbturbo ·
Still haven't been able to find an engine loom to suit the ECU and loom I bought for it.Picked up a 2006 Impreza with 2lt SOHC engine.Should be able to use the full loom and ECU to power up my 2lt Quad cam engine.Will strip it all out and send over to Andrew so he can do his magic.I have $500 tied up in the first ECU and loom I bought-don't know if any of it may be of use to somebody?
nbturbo ·
Bought some small retro driving lights with eyebrows for a motor cycle.Made some stainless brackets and gave them a new home on the Hot Rods front bumper.Made a trial piece of body steel to close the top section on the rear of the cab.Also made some anchors with nuts welded in for the top seat belt mounts.
nbturbo ·
Have the seats away being recovered,so bought home all the plastic hardware.Cleaned,blasted and sanded out all the nicks and scratches.Gave everything several coats of plastic paint to match the trim.
nbturbo ·
The body bloke has got back onto my car.Back of cab is almost closed up.Doing the back of the roof down to the drip gutter now.
vw54 ·
Your back into the project again
nbturbo ·
I am always at it Birch-but trying to convince my panel bloke to get as energetic as me-tough ask.
nbturbo ·
Got some pics of last weekends work
nbturbo ·
Back of the cabin roof is nearly done.B pillars are finished welding.
vw54 ·
Looking Good get the grinding wheels out
nbturbo ·
I was in contact with a sunroof company in the US several years ago about a rag one for my ute.They only do a full size for a standard Beetle.The Boss was really interested in what I was doing,so decided he would have a go at custom fabricating something for me.He couldn't guarantee that it wouldn't need some body modification for it to work.Well the time arrived yesterday to cut the hole.It was made with a curve to be as close as possible to the VW roof line.After marking the centre lines in both directions on the roof,decided 20mm forward of centre.Cut the hole and it looked like the roof needed some serious massaging to meet both front corners.Drilled all the holes and bolted it down.Perfect fit other than the corners on the front ally cross piece.About 5 hits with a dolly and hammer-perfect.Very relieved that it worked.
nbturbo ·
While waiting for my Hot Rod to come home,I took on another small job.The owner bought it from pics from a reputable workshop in Melbourne.It was all done mechanically.Needed all the small hardware and glass fitted.It came to him on a Transporter.I believe only about half the stuff has ever arrived.It has a 351 Windsor,C4 auto and a disc brake 9 inch.The rear discs were fitted at a Kindergarten somewhere-will never pass rego here.The 9 inch was all new.Took out one axle,splines had turned about 6mm.It has a Rodtech style front end(US made). The sump pan was wrong way round to fit the crossmember.Sump was full of water-no oil.I took the rear brakes from an ED Falcon to do a conversion on the 9 inch.No way I could make it fit.Bolt spacing is too far out.The rear springs have been moved in 135mm each side for wheel clearance-but they forgot to shorten the diff.Standard 16 inch Falcon wheels won't easily fit past the wheel arches.Got him to organise an FG XR8 ute diff.Already got good brakes and ratio.Will get that one shortened.The rear spring hanger job is also top class.The tube that holds the shackle rubbers is exhaust tubing.I will fabricate a complete rear 4 tubed cross member to locate the spring hangers.Had a bit of free time today-Decided not to waste the ED brakes.Welded up the holes in the caliper brackets and machined them for a VW rear disc set up.I have some blank type 3 rear hubs here,so will drill Ford pattern to suit the discs.
nbturbo ·
Just picked up my re-upholstered Mitsubishi Starion seats for my Hot Rod.The centre light grey panel is very close to the sunroof canvas colour.
1303Steve ·
nice looking seats
nbturbo ·
I reckon also. They are beautiful to sit in. There are plenty of things to adjust to make it fit you better. My fave is bringing in the side wings to fit tighter against your sides
1303Steve ·
the Japs do some good seats. I put some Honda Prelude seats in my sons bug years ago, the fabric still looks like new and they are as comfortable as the Recaros in my Beetle
nbturbo ·
I bought a universal power window kit for this a couple of years ago.Wasn't really keen on the fitting set up.The window crank has the splined drive on it which sticks out about 40mm.Recently thought I may be able to make an ally cover which would hold the tweeter speaker for the sound system and hide the window crank.Decided that's the go.Started to fit up the winder motor.Really works well and is very smooth and quick to operate.I had already fitted the one piece window regulator.I have found some door jamb spring loaded contacts to transfer the power across.Don't know yet,because nothing will work with the door open.
beetleboyjeff ·
I used the same type of electric window mechanisms in my bug
nbturbo ·
Have you had them in long? Been reliable.I am trying to sort out the door trim now with the plastic gear drive poking through so far.
beetleboyjeff ·
I used door pockets etc. that I got from the wreckers to cover the winder knob - I think they are out of a Mazda 626 or something - gives me storage pockets in the doors and courtesy lights. I fitted them in 2007 and use the car most days - it is my work car. I think I replaced a switch once, and I may have replaced one winder, but they have been pretty good
nbturbo ·
What a great idea. Would never had thought about doing that.Did think about trying the later model door handle idea. Thanks for the pic - back to the drawing board for me
beetleboyjeff ·
The other thing that you may find useful is how to get the wiring into the door. I used rubber hose with a tight grommet holding it into the A pillar, and a larger hole into the door so the hose slides in and out of the door as you open & close it. The wires run in the hoses. I think I also had to slightly tap the A pillar or the door edge (or maybe both) in a little bit so the grommets didn't bind.
nbturbo ·
Doing the wiring was my greatest concern.I found door jamb contact panels,but reckon they may be too thick for the door gap.Next idea was like you have done. Was wondering why you used 3 tubes - then realised your window switches were on the door.I am only using 2 switches and fitting them in a centre console.I will only need 2 window wires and 2 speaker wires.Should be able to get the 4 into one tube.Did a mock up from some scrap ally this morning.Will weld sides on the final jobs.Decided to use 2 tweeters on each door.Got a big amp to drive it all.Will cover in the same material I use on the door trim.
nbturbo ·
Got the first one ready to weld up.Took my spare material back to the upholsterer today for him to stitch up for my door trims.Gunna have 2 tone like the seats.
beetleboyjeff ·
Actually, I have 3 tubes for windows, remote central, and courtesy lights in the doors
nbturbo ·
Do you have a pic of the courtesy lights.Thought about fitting something like that as well.On the New Beetles I see they are called Puddle Lights.I made some stainless arm rest pieces to go on the outside of the door at the belt line.These were available for early Holdens when you were allowed to rest your arm while driving.Put some on my Oval when I built it.Made these a lot bigger.Polished them just now so I can glue some insertion rubber on the back.
beetleboyjeff ·
Sorry, I did post the photo of the lights up before, but it doesn't seem to open. Here it is again, as well as a photo of the lights lit up at night, and a photo of the light box and green flouro inside the light box behind the VW emblem
beetleboyjeff ·
Damn, 2 of the photos don't seem to have opened - they may be too big. I have made them smaller - see if these work
nbturbo ·
Very strange-I opened your pics yesterday OK,But today no go.Thanks for sharing.Very clever stuff there.Took my new dash panel to the car yesterday and beat it to shape.Sanded,primed and painted finished colour.Hammertone Gunmetal.Another job completed.Also finished the first Tweeter enclosure for the door panel.
nbturbo ·
Gave the auto shifter cover a resto this morning.Gave it a blast first,a clean,then trim paint.It seems to stick really well if I blast it first.
TAFEteacher ·
This is a great project!!
nbturbo ·
Decided not to have any material on the the door trims.Made one from aluminium for a trial.Will have it painted in one of the body colours.Tidied up the tweeter enclosure.Welded up any of the holes that would have been covered with material.Fitted a door grab handle and marked where I will put 2 stainless mouldings.Happy with it,so better do the other one.
nbturbo ·
I restored an Oval fuel tank a couple of years ago for this.Fitted 10mm supply fitting and 8mm return as well as a tank unit.Been thinking that the front is getting a bit crowded.Decided to quit the tank and fit an ally flat plate there.Will make a bigger ally tank to fit at the bottom of the tray area.I cut this filler from a wreck yesterday and will fit it on the drivers side of the tray.Found the ally ribbed moulding clipped under the chrome strip.Decided to cut one up for the Hot Rod.Then decided to fit them to my Oval and make another 2.
nbturbo ·
The ally panel I made from 2.5mm which was a waste and very heavy.Bought a sheet of 1mm and made the first one.Made a small cover panel to hide the power window cable that goes down to the motor.I have swapped the door release pivots from side to side,so the handles are now up top.Bought chrome hotrod type handles.The ally panel will be painted in satin grey to match the grab handle.I am fairly certain the final colours have been chosen.The turquoise will be the main body colour,and the cream will go on the side,below the body molding and between the mudguards-like the 2 tone that was used on early Beetles,and still using the black spoked wheels that I have already purchased.I may even have the roof done in cream also.The mesh sunvisor,rag sunroof frame and running boards will be done in the silver pearl.I have had a decal made to go on the doors to make it look like a workshop ute.The decal is in silver pearl.
nbturbo ·
The mesh visor colour and wheels
beetleboyjeff ·
That will look so good
nbturbo ·
I am hoping.It's been real easy for me for the last 40 years-everything I have restored has been painted yellow.Moving into new territory now.I have just sorted the inside door release.Because the panel is ally,I can't use the spring and pin to hold it on.So I bought these chrome items that are held on with a grub screw.Machined an ally spacer.Just drilled a hole where the grub screw goes and can feed it into the handle thru the hole.Easy fix.
nbturbo ·
Because I am having one piece windows,decided to make some wind deflectors like the open top cars had in the 30's and 40's.I have these windows in my Oval and they get a bit breezy with the window just down a bit.Thought about something different for them.I had some reverse decals made of the little early VW service man.I stuck them to the polycarbonate and hit them with the sand blaster.Turned out really nice.
nbturbo ·
I initially ordered the decals for the door to be 600 X 400.for some reason they were done at 400 X 370.I thought they would be OK.That didn't happen.So asked for them to be done to original order.They are much better now.He even added my home town.
nbturbo ·
Got my aluminium door trims back from the painter.Were done to match the darker grey in the seat fabric.Have to still polish the stainless trim strips and fit.
nbturbo ·
Got a couple more jobs done on it today.All welding on the cab is now finished.Just have to rub the etch primer,then hit it with some 2pac primer.Drilled the 4 holes to fit the sunvisor and 2 for the belt line stainless moulding.I have to make them yet.Should have it all home again in about a fortnight.I was going to fit the 2 guages for the air bags into the dash alongside the glove box.Decided today that it won't happen.I will make another ally panel in front of the auto shifter and fit them and the 4 switches in it.Reckon I will fit my bud vase on the dash by the glove box.
nbturbo ·
And the dash
Flintstones ·
Looking good Gary.
Glad to see the semaphores are still going to be utilised 👍
nbturbo ·
Dino - I bought a set of NOS Hella replacement orange lenses that were to replace the semaphores. I still not fully committed to them yet.
nbturbo ·
Got my cash consumer back home again.Started the long,long,long assembly.Got a 7inch TV for it with an SD card to record.Made a bracket to hold a small camera up behind the mirror.Have to drill a slot behind the mirror to run the cord down to the unit.Got 1 guard fitted and the bumper.Have to weld a couple of small tubes under the bumper brackets to run the light wires back into the car,then get them powder coated.
nbturbo ·
couple more
Bizarre ·
Looks great
nbturbo ·
Got some more done.I cut 2 sections from a donor door the make a second skin where the exterior mirrors mount.This will stop any vibration of the mirror.I had them welded along the top and body glue for the rest.I put the rivet nuts in to go through both skins.Very firm now.Also done all the rivet nuts to hold my polycarbonate wind deflectors.Cleaned up some front bumper irons and welded a piece of 10mm ID tube under them.Had those,the ally bonnet hinges and the 4 seat base posts powder coated gloss black.Trial fitted the NOS Hella Semaphore replacements.
nbturbo ·
Some more
nbturbo ·
spent a few days plugging away fitting bits to it.
nbturbo ·
Some more
nbturbo ·
Had a go at making the first short stainless body trim to fit the short B pillar.Very pleased with it.
hulbyw ·
Great progress. Cool car
nbturbo ·
Thanks.It's more work than I first planned.Made so many changes mid stream
1303Steve ·
very nice work
nbturbo ·
Still tinkering.Fitted my new side trim and found a new home for the Wolfsburg Crest.I have fitted the crest on the front 1/4 panels of my other builds-looks better here on this one.
Bizarre ·
Crest looks right there
nbturbo ·
I bought this old Coke esky about 20 years ago and decided to restore it as a Pepsi unit.I have already done a coke one.Thought it would be good to take to Hot Rod shows in my Beetle ute.
nbturbo ·
Made a small ally switch panel to go under the dash.Will need extra switches for the spot lights and perhaps windscreen washers.
hulbyw ·
Nice curves. Great work
nbturbo ·
I have started the tray.Built the first corner piece-it is for the front ,drivers side corner.
nbturbo ·
Some more
MR930 ·
Looking good.
nbturbo ·
Got the tailgate frame made today.Used VW lock and striker from a Superbug.Made the whole thing from scratch.Used 3mm flat bar for the ends and 40mm RHS for the frame.It opens and closes very nice.Got to skin it now then start on the sides.Also have to close in both back corners.Bought these LED lights which will fit in the bottom corners of the tail gate.
nbturbo ·
more
beetleboyjeff ·
Looking good. I love the tailgate latch :-)
vw54 ·
gary did u get the guards
nbturbo ·
No- not yet. Still waiting
nbturbo ·
Birch, if you happen to visit them, could you ask for me please?
nbturbo ·
Started fitting the rear guards.Left 20mm clearance between tyre and guard with it sitting on the deck.Still looks OK when up at travelling height.Had some 25mm RHS rolled to form the frame that the guards will be bolted to.Making everything except the engine cradle to be able to be unbolted.
vw54 ·
I understand your front guards are on the way
nbturbo ·
Yes. Got the call yesterday. There were 4 on the pallet. Lucky it was sorted before before it left. Got the extra layer done to stop stones causing star chips
nbturbo ·
Started to fit the Aero guards today.Pissed off with whoever made them.Idiot cut the lip too short.Normal is leave at least 30mm,but these are 20mm and in places only 15.The VW hole centre is 15mm from the body top edge,so some of these mudguard holes will go past the edge.Rang Boris and let him know.Made this jig up to help.Going to make some bumperettes for the back.This is my first attempt from a VW bumper.
hulbyw ·
Maybe the other 2 on the pallet were the good ones?
nbturbo ·
hulbyw wrote:Maybe the other 2 on the pallet were the good ones?
Yes, always my luck. Pretty sure the others would be the same.
nbturbo ·
finished the RH bumper.Used a cut down original bumper iron tp mount it.Will fab and end bracket to support it.Got my 50mm trailer hitch to weld on.
nbturbo ·
Forgot I had these.Was the reason I used a Beetle bumper to make the short end pieces.Very happy now how the back end will look.
beetleboyjeff ·
They do look good
nbturbo ·
Got my bumper ends back from the chrome plater.Awesome job.Cut the towbar tongue receiver and welded into position.Used the offcut to make a place to store the tongue when not being used.Is in behind where the rear grille will be.
vw54 ·
keep going u may beat me with my Oval
nbturbo ·
That may happen ??? I have bought a 78 F100 to use as a donor to restore my 80 XLT long wheel base.Gotta spread myself between 2 projects.
vw54 ·
Look like you had the bumpers chromed
where did you get that done
nbturbo ·
A Class Metal Finishers in Adelaide
nbturbo ·
Wow,been a while.Got it all in colour now.Part way thru assembly.