oil filter gasket help

so its time to do the first oil change on the type3 panelvan since the engine rebuild. a couple of dumb questions..........
i recall reading that the cardboard oil filter gaskets need to be sprayed with something to make them non porous...
whats its called... where do i get it..... how do i use it....
any other tips or tricks so it doesnt leak....
also what are the torque settings of the centre drain plug and the smaller dome nuts????

thanks in advance

Put them on dry, if they need sealant they aren't good quality. There are copper gaskets under the dome washers and the sump plug,don't forget to replace these with new ones that should be in the strainer kit.

yes put on dry

make sure the plate is not distorted around the 6 stud holes make it flat if its warped

If you have a flat plate, and a flat sump, and a nice good quality gasket, then dry works well.
Unfortunately getting all 3 at once is unlikely.........

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aviation-Gasket-Sealant-Form-A-Gasket-50ml-3J-Loctite-No-3/182195008037?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D7ba3b623436b4db09316797c3b081462%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D262470983452

thanks for the replies

ok so i have some loctite no3 ........... should i use it anyway.......... looks like the filter gaskets had some sort of sealer on them previously......

better to be safe than sorry how tight should the dome nuts be ?????

Any sealant you use will be a PITA to get off next oil change. Best to leave it dry. My Idiot Manual says 5ft lbs torque on the nuts. Unless you are into working on push bikes, you probably won't have a torque wrench that goes that low. Just do up firm, but don't lean on them. Drain bolt is 25ft lbs

leave dry that's why you have paper gasket so they crush to seal

got it..........
nice to have the right info........
have always used them dry but for some stupid reason the engine rebuilder has used what looks like silicone ?????????????
i will put it together dry and see what happens

thanks for all the input

If you don't have the correct 'acorn' nuts, Nyloc nuts will do to stop the oil seeping down the threads...and use new copper washers.

yeah i have the dome nuts and a new gasket set
just done the filter...............what a PITFA it was to get the left over bits of the gasket off the sump.
know im starting to think that the gaskets had silastic on them why???????
was it because the sumps not flat ???????? i would think an engine rebuild would include checking that......... in this case who knows.............
time will tell i guess

yep sump plate not flat
the most over look item always causes leaks

ok so gaskets done with no sealant.... so far so good..... approx 20 mile test run with no leaks...... will check in the morning if any drips on the garage floor.........
thanks for everyone input

dry as a chip sorry for the crappy pic

thanks to all

pv370 wrote:yeah i have the dome nuts and a new gasket set
just done the filter...............what a PITFA it was to get the left over bits of the gasket off the sump.
know im starting to think that the gaskets had silastic on them why???????
was it because the sumps not flat ???????? i would think an engine rebuild would include checking that......... in this case who knows.............
time will tell i guess

some people love silicon and others love permatex or other gasket cement.
I have always used the non drying permatex or aviation gasket cement..
It does make a gasket change Harder to clean etc....

another good hint: You can You silastic on exhausts, headers and manifolds as it WILL handle all that heat and does an excellent job of sealing any clean exhaust surfaces...
I didn't believe it at first, after being told that a mechanic fitting header exhausts etc used it for years to fix any gaps. I have used it for over 6 years now without any problems...

LEE

If you must use silicon on exhausts, and there's an oxygen sensor in the system, make sure it is oxygen sensor safe.