Hi all, after it's second trip to the mechanic due to their first screw up (Broke the gearbox nose the first time), my gearbox is jumping when I accelerate, and hitting the body. I attached a video of the coupling showing the jump. Anyone know what it is? Easy fix or should I take it back again?
Also, it only happens in forward gears, reverse gear is unaffected
shokwave2 ·
Maybe check the front trans mount. Bolts may be loose or missing. Might just need tightening. Or take it back and get them to fix their f-up.
ultrasuede ·
They seem fine, also it only happens in forward gears. Reverse is fine
vw54 ·
New front mount required its GONE
where are u located u need a real VW guy to FIX
ultrasuede ·
Goondiwindi QLD mate. Not many to choose from haha
Bizarre ·
if it's a later style front mount - the new ones are rubbish
Fix it for good with a Berg style semi solid mount
ultrasuede ·
Finally had a chance to play with the bug. Here is a video of the front mount. The mount is 3 months old.
Any suggestions for a better mount will be muchly appreciated.
Cheers
splitbus ·
Whats the other 2 mounts like
Bizarre ·
this will fix the front mount problem
As I said - the new mounts are shit
ultrasuede ·
It is defiantly the front mount. I just put the jack on the front of the gearbox, and the middle of the mount has broken off the rest of it.
That looks like a good fix Bizarre. Unfortunately I do not own a welder, and paying someone to do it out here would be robbery. Any reliable bolt on versions?
I had the rhino rear gearbox coupling and it was brilliant.
Same thing with the aftermarket rear couplers - rubbish. The rubbers rotted out in weeks.
That said - the rhino basket needed a tickle with a welder to stop the "clamp" from spinning.
You could use an original cage?
Whatever - I digress
I wouldn't just trust the rhino mount
But I cant work out how the "bolt in" works
you can see on mine where the AC.net one would end.
I can only assume you drill through the horns?
Be aware you do get transmission "noise" transmitted into the car with this mod.
It feels "harsh" at first but you soon get use to it
Thanks guys, I ended up calling Micks Motors in brissie. He is sending me new mounts and a strap kit. I will post results when I install them.
ultrasuede ·
Well in 1 day with the help of 1 jack, 2 jack stands and a set of spanners and sockets that I bought from the reject shop, I dropped the engine, replaced the tranny mounts, bogged up 2 holes on the tranny that were leaking (why they are there in the first place, I have no idea) Installed the empi tranny straps, put the engine back, just in time for dinner. The thing shift and drives like a dream. No increased shake or engine noise because the straps are rubberized. It even got rid of an erratic acceleration problem I was having (the jerk in the tranny was pulling the accelerator cable, and going from zero to balls deep with no in between).
I have a question, the mount I removed has a rubber nub on the back, the replacement one didn't. It still fits. Is that a problem?
grumble ·
he holes are to install the selector ball s and springs there is normally a plastic plug fitted to close the hole.
ultrasuede ·
Okay, i'm banging my head against a wall now. My gearbox is bouncing while taking off in 1st again. Everything was going great, then all of a sudden, the car starts jumping again. I have replaced the mounts (front and back) installed a bracing strap (front and back) made sure the bowden tube is adjusted. I am out of ideas. Any help will be appreciated.
bevoracing ·
Can't seem to paste anything in here so I'll type it out, again.
One of the old rules is "Don't over-tighten the pressure plate bolts, or the clutch shudders". Pressure plate to flywheel bolts, M8x1.5, 18 foot pounds.
Theory is if you over tighten them it distorts the pressure plate and it doesn't clamp to the flywheel properly. It's not very tight so always use a tension wrench, and Loctite. Worth checking, you've tried everything else, except replacing the clutch & pressure plate.
Good luck
Tony