What oil should I use?

Just bought myself a 1970 Beetle with a '73 1600 in it last week. Decided I better change the oil.

I have read alot about what oil to use but am still unsure.
In John Muir's book he talks about detergent and non-detergent oils.
How do I know whether my current oil is detergent or non-det?
In regard to grade: I talked to Volkspower and they say to use 25W-60.
What recommendations do you have?

Thanks 🙂

[Edited on 10-9-2003 by *did*]

Don't worry about detergent and non-detergent oils. That book is very old and it's not an issue these days.

Use any good 20W50 oil and you should be fine. Go for a decent specification like SJ or later oils (ie SJ, SL etc)

I wouldn't use anything but Castrol Magnatec oil.. IMHO the best.... and Your Beetle engine naturally should have the best.... I don't want My beetle engine to wear out for a long long time...:thumb
Castrol Magnatec 5L for under $30.00
There are so many oils out there, its a difficult decision, but once You have picked one and it seems OK, stick with it.
Don't mix oils... Buy the best You can afford... cheers Lee

what ever oil - regularity is more important.

Cheap oil changed every 3 - 5,ooo kms is better thant big buck oil changed every 10,000 kms


PS
Congratulations on the purchase.

(damn edit mode - cant see what was typed)

Your first?
Was it a 71? - super or standard?

[Edited on 10-9-2003 by blue74l]

I personally wouldn't use 25w60 engine oil in an air cooled VW Engine...
the original grade recommended was 30 grade oil... a light grade engine oil.
Castrol Magnatec is a 10w40 engine oil.
Not too heavy to slow down the oil cooling in the VW oil cooler..
and Yes, regularity is the Key...
every 3000 miles. change the oil...
cheers
Lee

[Edited on 10-9-2003 by 68AutoBug]

I've heard lots of negative things about Castrol Magnetic, and would never use it.

Do a search on the net and you'll see what I mean.

A mineral oil will give less oil leaks than a synthetic oil. That's a big plus for the mineral oil in a VW motor.

Yeah, not real keen on the old Magnatec - made the lifters in my V8s and a Pajero go ticky ticky. I've used GTX2 in everythig I own for years - inlcuding a 1916cc Beetle. (Daily driver and circuit sprints) Change every 2000 miles in the Beetle and my old cruiser and 5000km in the daily driver. No oil filter in a beetle and carbys/chokes and shorter trips contaminates oil with petrol far more than EFI

cars with hydraulic lifters are different, and need higher quality oil. I tried SL grade mineral oil in my V6 and it didn't like it. Noisy lifters. Then I got some advise off the MX6 boys and they said to run a thin high quality 5W-30 synthetic. I did that (Castrol Synthetic R) and the lifter noise went away. They also don't like magnetic.

But the VW engine does not have any hydraulic lifters or other fancy bearings, and therefore does not need a fancy oil. Like blue says, just change it more often. You can buy good oil for the VW for about $14.

According to the spec sheet for castrol.
20W 50 (Or GTX2) is the recomended oil for use.
I think we had this before didnt we Wes?
I use Castrol Formula R 25W-50 (The old GP50) in the 1916 in summer and GTX 2 in winter......

Castrol Magnatec is only a 10W 40.
Synthetics or Semi Synthetics are not good for Aircooled engines as the Castrol Tech Head told us..
Thats what GTX and GTX 2 are for....

Tazz.

Thanks guys,
I think I will go for the GTX2, as its cheap and easy to get a hold of.

For those who were wondering: my beetle is a 1970 1500 body, but with a '73 1600 (AD) in it. Extractors, 009 dizzy, different cam (not sure which), lightened flywheel. And yeah, its my first!

Tazz
OK.. I am changing to GTX2 also....
I looked up Castrol and air cooled industrial engines and GTX2 is recommended for VW engines....
They don't list Beetles etc any more on their oil recommendation list for cars.
Thanks for the info..
cheers
Lee

PS. I'll keep the Magnatec for My Lancer.

I'm lazy and couldn't be bothered trying to find the articles on the negative effects of Castrol's Magnetec maaaaaaaaan. Could someone who's been there post up some links please? Thanks

I bought a 20 litre drum of Penrite HPR30 20-60 grade. Mineral oil that covers a large range of viscosity and isn't too expensive. I change both the Beetle and the Bus every 5000km.

Hey, Hellbus!
You're in Blackburn, I live in Blacky too, but my beetles in Ringwood.
Nice bus

If synthetic oils aren't recommended for air-cooleds why did Porsche use Mobil 1 in all their air-cooled and new stuff for the last 15 years? I'm sure there's almost as much stress on my 1835 pushing 1.8ton of kombi up the toowoomba range every day, so it has nothing to do with" high performance engines" and more to do with longevity. Where is the scientific facts to say that synthetic oils aren't suitable for an air-cooled engine. If I can get 250,000 ks between rebuilds I'll use the best oil I can get with filter changes every 3000ks and oil changes every 6000. Everyone has an opinion on what they think is best for their car , but I'll trust Porsche experience for hard driven air-cooled's until I'm proven wrong.

*did*

You will see more of the bus now that the weather is getting better. Also the beetle is going off the road for a quick respray soon, so Fleur will be driving the bus everyday again.

So what oil do You use Dubcab??
Mobil one is a bit expensive for Me....
I know My Beetle deserves the Best... but not Mobil 1...
Magnatec is just under $30 for 5 litres.
Castrol GTX 2 is around $18 for 5 litres.
My Son uses Shell 20w60 oil in His Beetle.
its cheaper still... (for older vehicles)
Lee

A work mate of mine was a Product Manager at Castrol up until 18months ago. (now he works for us).
His recomendation for air cooled VW's is Castrol GTX2. Good enough for me.

dubcab wrote:If synthetic oils aren't recommended for air-cooleds why did Porsche use Mobil 1 in all their air-cooled and new stuff for the last 15 years?

I hate to say this, but your VW motor and a Porsche motor are completely different. Even in the late 60's porsche had components with higher oil demands than the VW motor like overhead cams which were chain driven.

The VW motor does not have any components that necessitate a synthetic oil. If you want to run one that's fine, but I believe the high price is not justified.

Hey *did* I live in Ringwood 🙂 Small world! 🙂

Jay and Wolf

I live in blacky too! maybe i'll see you around when Belle decides to behave more!

I know a number of type 4 Kombi motors with well over 200,000 miles from original on both synthetic and mineral oils.
As I mentioned in the other oil thread, synthetic oil will be have a more stable viscosity at hight temps. This is not the bulk oil temp in your sump but around the rings/valves where the oil is subjected to temps over 400degC.
As Wes says there is no real benefit using synthetics in an old VW (even though some kombi's do have hydraulic lifters on the valves).
The best thing is to get an oil pressure gauge and ensure the pressure is within spec. When old oil starts to break down you will loose oil pressure, so make sure you change oil before this happens, also if you run your oil hot it will also loose pressure so pick an appropirate weight to overcome this. This is assuming an otherwise healthy engine.
Andy
:thumb

Thanks for the Oil Pressure information Andy...
Lee

:thumb gtx2 tyvm 😀

I was using Mobil XHP but changed to Castrol GTX when I rebuilt the motor.

Ain't GTX2 and Super XHP pretty much the same anyways? All this everyday 20W-50 oil is all refined from the same base oil and the separate companies add in thier own additives... Isn't it?

I use Mobil XHP anyways... I used Mobile 1 once... but i wouldn't get enough oil pressure at idle... and after a run to Torquay in my 72 Beetle 1500, it smelt pretty hot....

[Edited on 16-9-2003 by oval TOFU]

Yeah they are, but since I'd just rebuilt the motor (ie. it had NO oil in it), I figured I'd swap over to what the manual recommended, just for the hell of it. 🙂

Would it be ok to use a heavier grade of oil in my 1200 (coz of crap compression)? Soemthing like 25W-60? I think Shell or Penzoil market an oil for older cars that have a higher viscosity rating...


It wouldn't be too thick for a humble VW engine would it?

Wouldn't hurt....
You could go for Penrite HPR 30 if you wish....

Just keep up the oil changes..

oval TOFU,
Should be no dramas. My type 4 motor is a little worn, and on a trip to Adelaide was loosing oil pressure (worn bearings) in the 40+ deg heat. I changed to shell 25W70 sport oil I think, problem solved. I would only do it to extend the life on an old motor though.

Geez! 25W-70 is thick! But i suppose in 40 degree heat it would be necessary... I think i'll try some thicker oil to seal the engine a bit better.. KFart has 15% off tomoro so i'll grab some oil and other crap there....

:thumb

Guys
Dont get too bent out of shape over the apparent thickness (or thinness) of an oild based on the advertised "weight"

Catlex RPM Delo 200 straight 40W engine oil has the same viscosity at operating temperature as 80-90w gear oil.

hence it is often used in large truck gearboxes (RoadRanger) with straight cut gears.

Dont be fooled by what is printed on the label.
You need to get the technical specs. of an oil at its stated operating temperature to get the real picture on its "thickness" or "thinness".
L8tr

check this out for oil info

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

kkk

You can lead someone to knowledge but you cannot make them think!

tassupervee wrote:Catlex RPM Delo 200 straight 40W engine oil has the same viscosity at operating temperature as 80-90w gear oil.

40W engine oil is the same viscosity as 80-90W (around that area) gear oil, that's why. It has nothing to do with false advertising.

Engine oil and gear oil have different weighting ranges for the same viscosity. This is to make it idiot proof to ensure you use engine oil in an engine, and gearbox oil in a gearbox.

I think you have well and truly missed my point dude. What I am saying is that it is worthwhile to research what the actual viscosities of different oils are rather than be led soley by the advertised "weight " as an indication of the 'thickness" of different oils.

Furthermore, where in my post did I mention "false advertising" Hmmmm?

Stated weight are just that, stated weights but that is not necessarily directly proportional to the thickness or thinness of oils at given temps and not a true indicator of oils.

Do you believe you are getting a true synthetic oil when you buy name brand synthetics such as castrol, pennzoil and so on??
No your not.
These oils are not pure synthetics even tho the package says they are. Oh yes, they have synthetic compounds and additives in them but are not actual "Synthetic" oils.
Dont be fooled, do your research and you will surprise yourself.
Goes to show that what appears on a package is not necessarily the same as what the package purports it to be.

L8tr
E

Bertoli extra virgin is good too 😀
less additives

tassupervee wrote:Furthermore, where in my post did I mention "false advertising" Hmmmm?

Man you are funny. You come onto a new forum, and within 3 posts you are trying to start something with a super administrator on the forum. You might want to tame your tone down. I was not trying to offend you. :puke

You have obviously been talking to some weird people, or reading some strange articles about conspiracy theories. I've said what I need to say, I'll let people listen to whoever they want to listen to. Besides it doesn't take long to look at a viscosity chart and see what I said was true.

So there!!!!:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P

has a nice cooking odour when fully warmed up too Pete. 😀😀

hehehe grey 😉
Be nice wesley, you're scaring people.
*pokes new member with pointy stick*
that's for talking back at a super moderator 😀
now SIT DOWN!
heheheheheee

sorry "super administrator"
:thumb

Hehehe "Super Administrator"..... which means what, you dont like what I say so I'll be kicked out of the forum?????
Dont worry dude, I dont care if you originally wrote the code for this forum.
You can gob off as much as you like as far as how many posts you have made but it does not impress me at all.
(sighs) Shall I hunt back and collate and quote you the amount of posts I have made to other motorracing forums........thousands actually, uhhhh no, I shall spare you and everyone else the tiresome details. You need to be quite sure of your facts when pointing the finger at and leaning on what appears to be a novice forum participant.
Bottom line is, you brought forward the issue of "False advertising"
Im sorry dude but I never mentioned "false advertising" anywhere.
I simply pointed out a very simple point regarding relative viscosities compared to package descriptions that you managed to missconstrue and then brilliantly copied in some table from,,,umm I think "The Oil Guy" (correct me if I am wrong here) that just backed up what I originally said.
Very good dude, so you attempt to impress me with your admin. status and nicely back up what I originally stated! Saved me the trouble.
Judging by some of the other replies you have certainly impressed others with your status. Cewl!
My friend, you will have to do much better than gob off how wonderful your forum status is to impress!
Perhaps re-read the previous statements and get the fact quite straight yeah?
Moderate me...if you dare!!!
L8tr M8
E

Your proving my point.

You come on a new forum, and you don't attempt to make friends, you just start trying to make enemies. That's what I find funny.

People will listen to who they have respect for. My point about my being an admin on this forum is that I gained that position through getting peoples respect.

Then you come on here and start getting all offended about a "false advertising" quote that was not even directed at you. The way you are carrying on I doubt anyone will listen to what you have to say, due to your attitude.

The oil viscosity chart is a standard chart, where the picture of it happens to be located is irrevelant. Maybe you'd feel better if it was linked off the American Petrolium Institute or Society of Automotive Engineers website?

But if you know who those groups are then you'd know 20W/50 is an SAE rating of the oils low and high temperature performance determined by standardised tests. It is not put there for fun, it is there to tell you about the oils viscosity.

Hey "Tas",who has Wes impressed with his "moderator" status???? Did someone step on your toes? or head maybee? Please don't bore the people with the thousands of posts you have made to other sites,seems like you're lookin for an arguement somewhere. Please "super administrator" moderate the whinger!!! I, like other people visit these sites to keep informed on woteva is going on in the outside world and sometimes learn something!. Everyone is entitled to have there own opinion on everything but there is no point getting stroppy because not everyone seems to agree with you. GO AWAY:repuke:repuke Unless I cant read you have implied that the packaging wording on oils may not be correct "it might say synthetic but its not" or sumfink along those lines. You were implying it was false advertising wern't you????

[Edited on 8-10-2003 by Mick H]

[Edited on 8-10-2003 by Mick H]

I won't ban anyone unless it is necessary or the majority posters want it to happen. It's "our" forum, not mine. :thumb

I don't want to ban "tassupervee" because I find him strangely entertaining. I mean he's only on his forth post and already he's starting trouble. That must be a new record or something 😀

It's a free country, he can say what he wants. I just don't think anyone is listening.

Damn.....
Is this thread still goin?
LMAO....

Just dont mention engine sizes....

Nice Chart Wes!

See.. thats why at 4 post's, He's still a Learner Dubber.
😀😀😀


Tazz.

Damn.....I've got 94mm pistons and barrels:jesus

Well mick.... the 1916 is such a superior engine . . . . .


just stirrin the shit fellas 😀😀😀

tazzsupervee .... take a deep breat . . . and lets all be friends . . . if a deep breath wont do it . . . a deep inhale of a smoky substance will mellow you out a little 😉

lets all be friends😘kiss:kiss

well . . . . maybe not with wes . . . seing he has molested his dub by putting that jap crap in the back hehehehe :kiss . . . .

*waits for wes *

hehe luv ya work wes

well. helluva lot of chest puffing going on here.
1916cc motors should run on gtx2. jap motors should use at minimum canola, or baby oil, if you have the cash, extra virgin farmland brand will do nicely. only problem is the viscosity figures are crap on the baby oil... whenever i use it it starts to thin out at around 40 degrees...
😀😀😀😀😀:vader:alien:bounce:cussing:puke😠:vader😎😉

Peter Leonard wrote:....canola, or baby oil, if you have the cash, extra virgin farmland brand will do nicely. ...

You don't pack your CV joints with KY jelly by any chance do you?

Bugger,
The secret is out :o :o :o

Vaso!
At least it's Petroleum Based!!!!!
😀

Sorry in advance dude but a long post.

Adam, 'tis very cewl!!!!

Mick.......Miiiiiiiiiiiiiick, yes, you certainly are entitled to an opinion (zzzzzzzzzzzzz)

Wes, trouble???????what trouble??????? I made a point, you interpreted it in any way you did and made your point based on your interpretation, I rebuked that, is that causing trouble???? No dude it isnt.

Now dude, why do you keep quoting facts and figures you already know that I know??

I dont make friends??????eeehh?

Whoever said that I was upset.......oh sorry Mick did. Mick, dood, cobber, mayyyyyyteeee! Im not upset, I just dont take lightly-thought-out rebukes from anyone easy K.

Wes, either took out of context what I had to say or simply misconstrued what I had to say...probably the same thing really but.......so thats how he sees it. He is certainly entitled to his opinion as I am mine.

Where he did flare his nostrils was to trumpet about his forum adminiatrator status....well I dont give a rats what status he has, and neither should he give a rats about mine.

Asd far as respect is concerned, respect is earned, not expected or demanded and so far there is nothing in his reaction to me to gain any more of my respect that anyone else.

My posts, minimal number they may be on this particular forum, have neither been abusive or necessarily confrontational nor pepperd with innapropriate language and are not a result of "kneejerk".
I think you might have gathered that I spend some thought and time in constructing them.

So there you go..... Mick.

40W engine oil is the same viscosity as 80-90W (around that area) gear oil, that's why. It has nothing to do with false advertising

That is the quote from Wes's original post that mentioned "False Advertising"
Now I put it to you, where did I mention "False Advertising"?

Catlex RPM Delo 200 straight 40W engine oil has the same viscosity at operating temperature as 80-90w gear oil.

There is the offending comment I originally passed that Wes ended up posting a chart on that simply backed up what I originally said.

If I appear pedantic by defending my original statements then thats just tough luck and those of you that dont like it have the ultimate form of censorship.....click and goodbye to you!

Wes finds me "Entertaining" but suggests that no-one is listening???/ I put it to you that plenty of you are listening judging by the replies.

FWIW, I use BP Visco 5000 "Synthetic" 5W-40 (I think) ((which is not a true pure synthetic oil anyway)) in my Formula Vee😀

L8tr dudes
E

tassupervee wrote:Wes finds me "Entertaining" but suggests that no-one is listening???/ I put it to you that plenty of you are listening judging by the replies.

There's a difference between listening and watching the show.

Here's your comment I didn't agree with

Stated weight are just that, stated weights but that is not necessarily directly proportional to the thickness or thinness of oils at given temps and not a true indicator of oils.

Now I think they clearly states that you think they advertise a different weight to what they supply. You might even call it false advertising. How am I agreeing with what your saying

errr.....where did I go?????😀

Wes (sighs)
The viscosities of differing brands of oils, at the stated operating temps are not necessarily directly related or proportional to the "Stated weights" printed on the package.
Just because a package says xW-y weight, it does not truly indicate the performance of a range of different brand oils.
put simply, "You cant necessarily judge a book by its cover"
Altho the stated weight of oils is, to a certain extent, is a pointer to its actual viscosity, it is not necessarily absolutely so.

Aparrent thickness or thinness of a fluid is variable depending on its temp. Chill zero weight oil down to its pour point and it resembles grease but it is still zero weight oil yeah?

Looking at how aparently "Runny" a particular oil is at say, engine temp,,,,oh I dont know say 90 Deg.C is just irrelevent.

So many dudes are misinformed when it comes to the fluid properties of oils and most common knowledge is if it seems thicker then it must be a heavie weight oil which is far from the truth and that is the main crux of my original post where I stated

Guys dont get too bent out of shape about the apparent thickness (or thinness) of an oil based on the advertised "weight"

There it is dude.
I just believe you have mis-interpreted my original post thats all.
L8tr
E

tassupervee wrote:The viscosities of differing brands of oils, at the stated operating temps are not necessarily directly related or proportional to the "Stated weights" printed on the package.

So again you are implying the false advertising.

Aparrent thickness or thinness of a fluid is variable depending on its temp.

So your saying viscosity of a fluid changes with temperature, that's obvious but at least I agree with you on something.

Chill zero weight oil down to its pour point and it resembles grease but it is still zero weight oil yeah?

So what your saying is as a fluid starts to freeze it starts solidifying. wow. What does this have to do with oil weights?

Looking at how aparently "Runny" a particular oil is at say, engine temp,,,,oh I dont know say 90 Deg.C is just irrelevent.

So the viscosity of an oil at operating temp doesn't matter to you, why? Doesn't your engine run at an operating temperature?

You obviously don't know what the 20W50 stands for. It's a standardised test of viscosity, you can't cheat it. If the oil viscosity falls within the specified viscosity range it gets that SAE rating. There is no ifs or buts about it. The temperatures and every aspect of the test are set and cannot be cheated or misused.

You obviously don't understand how the oils get their ratings. Have you ever performed any of the viscosity or wear tests on an oil before? I have, so I don't need to have someone who doesn't know try and tell me how to do it.

Oil is brown!!!:bounce


sometime BLACK!!:bounce

and slippery:bounce

if it sparkles then uh oh

lol

My engineering degree is bigger than yours, so there :P

No way, mine's much bigger! :P



And some people thought the 1916 debate was boring!

nah steve . . . . i dont think it is engineering degrees these boys need to compare . . . . c'mon whip em out and get it over and done with :P

i have a REALLY funny picture but the nudity would not let me put it here :S

ah well

have fun fellas

Oh man........

I think Both of you are getting away from the subject in hand.

We all know Oils 'aint Oils......

Tazz.

LOL ahh lawsie . . . . . johnny boy . . . . i think he may have a VW or two in his multimillion dollar collection of vehicles . . . . dunno tho

1916cc are better because............... ooops wrong post😀😀

Pack your CV's with magarine

lube your wheels with Vicks vapour rub

and go get a B Pharm degree to work on your engines !!!!!

😉 Sorry too many bourbons😀

tassupervee; I've just read this thread from start to finish. I know you're new here, and I've known Wes since meeting him nearly two years ago. Nevertheless, I'll try to be as unbiased as I can.

First of all, I've never known Wes to publish info that is incorrect. He has done some amazing research in the past and is well-respected because people know that he researches things so thoroughly. I don't know you, but if you race then I'm assuming that you must have some knowledge. I just don't understand the point you are trying to make.

If you can prove Wes wrong, then I'd like to see it. For that matter, so would a lot of other people 😉 but you're going to have to explain yourself a lot better than you have so far.

Looking at how aparently "Runny" a particular oil is at say, engine temp,,,,oh I dont know say 90 Deg.C is just irrelevent.

I would argue that viscosity is most important at the temperature the oil is designed to run at. ie. Viscosity at engine temperature of an engine oil would be majorly important. That is after all, its intended operating conditions.

Guys dont get too bent out of shape about the apparent thickness (or thinness) of an oil based on the advertised "weight"

I was under the impression that the "advertised weight" was SAE-tested and therefore correct under consistent testing conditions. Of course, Wes has already said that. I just don't see what your argument is.

What I do see is that you have come here to have a debate. Unfortunately you don't appear to be winning your chosen argument, so you start blowing smoke like:

Aparrent thickness or thinness of a fluid is variable depending on its temp. Chill zero weight oil down to its pour point and it resembles grease but it is still zero weight oil yeah?

Excuse my sarcasm for a moment, but that is kinda obvious. Which is exactly why SAE tests are carried out under set conditions, so the viscosity is being tested without temperature variables from one oil to the next. One variable at a time. That is a basic principle of science that any high-school science student should be aware of, yet you 'seem' to have missed it.

I must re-iterate that I'm not having a go at you, just calling it how I see it. You are welcome to explain your case more clearly. Are you sure you are comparing apples to apples? It seems to me that Wes's chart did back up your statement that "Catlex RPM Delo 200 straight 40W engine oil has the same viscosity at operating temperature as 80-90w gear oil."

What I don't understand is why you insist that we should not "be fooled by what is printed on the label." This is what Wes was referring to as "false advertising". You alleged it, he just used a more succinct term. I'm surprised you didn't work that out yourself. You are comparing engine oil to gear oil, which are two different grading systems. I'm surprised you didn't work that out too.

So far what I'm seeing is a case of miscommunication. tassupervee, I think you need to spend as much time reading posts as you do into writing them. You appear to have totally missed Wes's point every time. I don't blame you for wanting to defend your original statements, but you seem to be flogging a dead horse.

The part I didn't like was "those of you that dont like it have the ultimate form of censorship.....click and goodbye to you!" I'm sorry, but there a lot of people who have been here a long time. I can't see how you could possibly justify saying that in your fifth post on this forum. It reminds me very much of the people who used to screw up the chat room I used to frequent and tell everyone that if they didn't like it, they were allowed to leave. People do have that right, but I can't see that you have the right to stir up trouble and suggest long-term members leave.

As I said at the start, I have been as unbiased as possible, and said it as I see it. Please read all the posts again very carefully before posting a response. That way hopefully we can end this here, it IS getting boring.

I know most people here like to stir me, that's fine. I also know they listen to what I have to say.

I am not trying to out-do anyone, or prove how big mine is.

I frequent these forums and try to ensure the information posted is as correct as possible. I know what you have posted is at the least misleading in some parts, so I have merely correct you. That is all I did in my first reply to you, you have made the issue out of it.

People come to this post to figure out what oil to run. They do not need to be confused by people telling them that the information on the label is not correct. It is correct and in virtually every case is independantly tested. Enough said.

I'm not going to respond to any other posts, all the info is already there for people to read.

Some interesting replies here. Some well thought out.
I am saying tho that some of you are not "seeing the wood for the trees"
I am tiring of explaining myself and plain and simple english is just not working here as well as I might have hoped.

As far as knowing anything about lubricants. Well, I am an Aircraft Maintenance Engineer (Qantas) by trade, I am also a qualified (licensed) motor mechanic where most of my time was spent engineering rotor powered rally cars and after a couple of years of driving fuel tankers for a large metropolitan oil distributor, I operated as a lube oils representative. I have perhaps at least a rudimentary working knowlege of lube oils based on actual experience and not on just what I read on the 'net.

Actually now come to think of it, I am a "Proffessional Race Car Driver" LMAO (ie: semi-retired)😎

As far as misleasding packaging is concerned, Synthetics. Are you getting a true synthetic oil just because the package says so? Do some research and enlighten yourselves. I have suggested this in a previous post. Did you do your research? Of course not.

I will say that dont judge the performance (or whateve properties gives you a stiffy) of a lube oil on its physical appearance at different temps.

What appears at a glance thick and gluggy may not be best for a rattly engine and what at first glance appears runny and watery may be the better (dare I say this: thicker) option.

This is/was the core of my original post but some of you dudes seem incapable, or unwilling to interpret it any other way and judgements are being further clouded by my limited number of post in this particular forum as backed up by the number of references to, and somewhat disparaging comments made against me.

Then I am accused of stirring up the forum?????????? Ayyyy? (look of outrage)!
Would it have made a difference if I had hacked the forum code and altered my post count to around a thousand or so?
This is a mighty easy thing to achieve BTY.

However, keep the comments coming thick and fast (no pun) as I am enjoying it!

L8tr dudes
E

Baja Wes wrote:

Peter Leonard wrote:....canola, or baby oil, if you have the cash, extra virgin farmland brand will do nicely. ...

You don't pack your CV joints with KY jelly by any chance do you?

people with selective postal memories please note the actual complete quote:

"jap motors should use at minimum canola, or baby oil, if you have the cash, extra virgin farmland brand will do nicely."

yes i use ky in my CV's, i lerned vat one from mah pappy.

under no circumcises should you use 'dencorub' brand lube on your rod. it will run hot.

thanks craig for the heads up re vicks vapor rub, but why don't you go and shove that phony B. Pharm degree back on your fridge. I don't care how many years you studied to learn stuff, AND things; i worked at a chemist once, for quite a few weeks, as a delivery boy. what REAL world experience do YOU have, huh?

now back to it... 1916cc's is the best because they have reallly thin walls, so you can seee the motor spinning and they get cooler cos of the thin walls and stuff.

AND i don't have a jap motor in my bug. so i don't use baby oil for THAT!

:o
I use it with a special lipid suspender in the form of armorall, on my dash, bumpers, wheels and trim. and in wrestling.

We ALL know that synthetic based oil leaks much worse than normal (!!) mineral oil... in a VW Engine..
I'm sticking to GT2 in My Beetle engine.... and if I run out I can use 80w90 gear oil because the viscosity is the same..!!! NEVER !!

also it makes NO difference whether someone is new to the forum of Not....
Do You mean if Larry Perkins just joined the Forum...
" err Sorry, Larry as You have just joined the Forum, You must know nothing at all about Volkswagens"
You may have rallied them and built up rally engines but Sorry old man, You have just joined the forum... It would have be a different thing if You had joined last year or the year before!!...

If the package says "Synthetic Oil" why in the world wouldn't it be.... Castrol & shell don't tell lies.... Dick Johnson doesn't tell lies either... so "Synthetic oils ain't synthetic coils " I read every label and I believe what I read.... After a lot of reading and talking to other forum members... I believe I have picked the correct oil for My VW engine & gearbox..

Man.. this is getting too complicated for Me .. I'm outta here.....
Lee

Like I said, do your research and you could be surprised at what you find.
The package says "Synthetic" due to a curious legal loophole in legislation regarding what appeasrs on packaging.

Oh yes, the package contains synthetic compounds but you often dont get "Fully Synthetic" .Many of the other "syntheitcs" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetcs (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.

A different story from the likes of some boutique suppliers such as Amsoil for one.

Be wary.
L8tr
E

my aircooled lawn mower uses a 30 flat oil
would the same be useable in a vw ?? i know air cooled and water cooled 2 stroke motor use different oil
my buggy sounds like a lawn mower :p
sorry i dont know much about vw motors
🙁

Hehehehehe you dont need to know too much about krauts! If they run at all then its all good yeah!😀

Dudes
I could not pass this!
I missed it at first due to....oh I dont know I just missed it anyway!

also it makes NO difference whether someone is new to the forum of Not....

And then this in the same paragraph!

but Sorry old man, You have just joined the forum... It would have be a different thing if You had joined last year or the year before!!...

LMAO, sounds like a difference to me!
I love this stuff!:vader

I was not implying that your number of posts or amount of time spent on the forum makes any difference to or your rights here.....

On the other hand, getting to know people and their little quirks is helpful in avoiding misunderstandings. 🙂

Hehehehe thats cool dude but you can see I have been dodging a few bullets!

I try to be as concise as I can but this often leads to long posts and regularly the original intention of a longer post can become errrr.....clouded and.....well...... you know the drill!

Happy Krauting!
E

Hopefully one day we can all learn to live together in peace and harmony :thumb

I was never trying to cause trouble, I just thought some of your post was misleading and needed some clarification.

It looks like you do have a wealth of experience, and I hope you hang about to share it with us. Just remember, some of us have a lot of experience and very technical backgrounds too. 🙂

God look how many posts Ive put forward, hey I thought this was a really Brill web site,,,,UNTIL,,,,,Now..Why isn't the bloody world run by women, at least they don't have to run around proving to themselves they have the biggest exaust pipe and then showing papers to prove it.
Lets get on with helping each other,,,, and yes,,,,sorry guys I have a really huge Pipe. Steve:bounce