I've done valve clearances quite a few times, and today I did the same proceedure as usual (from memory).
set the cog at TDC (for cylinder one)
set the gaps at .006
turned cog anticlockwise 180*.
Did the same proceedure for 2nd cylinder, 3rd, then 4th.
Did the timing...
Then started her up. She sounded OK but only noticed the problem once I started driving. She needs high revs to get going, and then once she's going, she can only go about 20kph (revving high in 2nd).
If I change to 3rd, she chugs and loses all power...
Thanks Blue.. I had another read through that and I think I did alright, but I didn't feel for the little notch in the distributor rim.... I've never done that.
Maybe I messed up the distributor somehow.
If I accidentally put a lead in the wrong place, could it cause such a problem?
When the piston in cylinder 1 is at it's fullest extent, the rotor arm points to cylinder 3 (or 4?). Shouldn't it point to cylinder 1? (rotor arm tip pointed at cylinder 1 point) ??
Baja Wes 路
cylinder 1 will be at TDC when the rotor is pointed to spark plug lead number 1 or number 3.
When it is pointing to number 1, then cylinder 1 is firing at TDC.
When it is pointing to number 3, then cylinder 1 is at the end of the exhaust stroke TDC.
The line / indent in the top of the dizzy tells you when the rotor is firing on cyl 1.
Jonno777 路
Had a hamburger, stood behind the car and looked at the engine.... did a little math, and figured I had the firing count wrong.
MAN AM I SO HAPPY!! Thanks for your help, fellas. :bounce