Fitting the later ball joint beam does have plusses and minuses. Big plusses are that
(1) you can fit later disks, and (2) parts are generally cheaper and easier to come by than for a king and link pin front end.
On the minus side the ball joint beam will raise the front of your splitbus by around 3 inches.
Thus you have to drop it 3 inches to get it back to stock height. If you want a lowered stance you have to drop it another 3+ inches, giving a total drop of 6+ inches via adjusters.
Buses dropped this far on adjusters ride and steer like ABSOLUTE CRAP (my opinion of course….. a bit of extra money for a kidney belt and a mouthguard and you could be right though…)
Ideal would be dropped spindles plus adjusters if you want to go low. I don’t know anyone in the world doing dropped spindles for ball joint front ends…. (but I’m guessing it will have to happen sooner or later, probably CNC machined like CB Performance’s for beetles).
Another possibility could be Mike Kristen and bugs and busses. They fit all later beams to splitbusses by replacing the bay mounting plates and welding in flat mounting plates to suit a splitbus (ergo any later bay beam not just the 68/69 will bolt in…). Now if the torsion tubes were rotated in the mounts (as opposed to rotating the leaves in the tube which is what an adjuster does) you should still maintain orig steering/suspension geometry……..there may be a reason why this would not work (would effect shocker length, drag link angle) ……….. I’ve only just thought about it and not really investigated it…
RobK
http://www.splitbusaustralia.com
[Edited on 11-11-2002 by splitbusaustralia]