This is what it looked like at the start.
A common garden variety 1970 standard 1300 with 4 wheel drums, a few dents and almost no rust.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Aussieveedubbers · Paint and Body
Respray of Beetle - step by step with pics Part I
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/17341/respray-of-beetle-step-by-step-with-pics-part-i
helbus ·
This is it after 1 day of repairing two dents in the roof, the LH door, the LHR fender, front panel and the front quarter panels, (not the fenders, the panels they bolt on to).
These repairs were done the weekend previous to this one.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
These repairs were done the weekend previous to this one.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
The roll on primer/ putty method used by panel shops these days. Less mess, no masking, no waste, no cleanup, but not for large panels like roofs.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
This is the charcoal dust applicator used so that dry rubbing is more effective, and again no spraying is done in the workshop to apply a guide coat.
A haze of any dark colour sprayed on top of the putty will give the same result.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
A haze of any dark colour sprayed on top of the putty will give the same result.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
As this is to be a very quick respray and time is of the essence, the rear 3 windows were cut out. New rubbers are not very expensive and these ones were on Viagra and hard anyway.
I prefer to cut from the outside rather than risk slipping and cutting the interior or the hoodlining where it wraps around the panel. We are keeping the original headlining.
Cut along the edge of the glass with the blade only protruding 8mm or so.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
I prefer to cut from the outside rather than risk slipping and cutting the interior or the hoodlining where it wraps around the panel. We are keeping the original headlining.
Cut along the edge of the glass with the blade only protruding 8mm or so.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
A light whip around the inside will make sure the glass is not stuck to the rubber. I am not cutting here, just releiving the glass.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Then the glass will just push out with ease.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
The remainder of the rubber will just pull of with no danger to the headlining or interior.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
The front screen is much harder in this instance as I had just gotten a new German rubber 12 months ago. I didn't particularly feel like buying another one, so I took it out complete with the front screen.
The screen was new also 12 months ago, so I was sweating while doing this. Front screens are very fragile as the replacement ones are not made from toughened glass.
First of all I ran a blunt screwdriver around the outside edge of the rubber on the outside to relieve the rubber and break the sealant.
Then I started from one corner on the inside and applied a constant pressure to the glass. This pressure was not enough to push the glass out on it's own, this is not what you want you will break it if you just push Gung Ho.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
The screen was new also 12 months ago, so I was sweating while doing this. Front screens are very fragile as the replacement ones are not made from toughened glass.
First of all I ran a blunt screwdriver around the outside edge of the rubber on the outside to relieve the rubber and break the sealant.
Then I started from one corner on the inside and applied a constant pressure to the glass. This pressure was not enough to push the glass out on it's own, this is not what you want you will break it if you just push Gung Ho.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
You need enough pressure so that when you peel the rubber edges with your fingers the rubber edge will hold where it is and keep working along.
You can see here the rubber coming away from the inside as I was working my way along.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
You can see here the rubber coming away from the inside as I was working my way along.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
This is after 4 hours of dissassembly.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
I love how easy these cars are to pull apart.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Bunch of panels waiting to be sanded.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Here you can see the two dustless sanding methods used.
The rubbing block has holes in it and a hose at the back attached to a vacuum unit. See how the block is being held so that the longest side is parrallel to the main straight lines of the panel.
The block is being held this way, but being moved in a diagonal motion in the direction I am holding my fingers.
The orbital sander you see is a fantastic unit. Called a Dynabrade, it is worth about $500 it is out of the reach of the home handyman, but they are hardy tools and last years being used every day in a panel shop.
You may be able to buy a less expensive brand, but buyer beware, dont buy a $40 random orbital and expect it to last to the end of your respray, or deliver top results for that matter.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
The rubbing block has holes in it and a hose at the back attached to a vacuum unit. See how the block is being held so that the longest side is parrallel to the main straight lines of the panel.
The block is being held this way, but being moved in a diagonal motion in the direction I am holding my fingers.
The orbital sander you see is a fantastic unit. Called a Dynabrade, it is worth about $500 it is out of the reach of the home handyman, but they are hardy tools and last years being used every day in a panel shop.
You may be able to buy a less expensive brand, but buyer beware, dont buy a $40 random orbital and expect it to last to the end of your respray, or deliver top results for that matter.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
This is one panel with the primer/ filler rubbed and also the rest of the panel.
Any other small imperfections can be picked up at this stage.
This panel is ready for priming. I am priming with the same product used for filling. It is mixed with reducer to thin it down. Being the same brand and same product even gives it more stability.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
Any other small imperfections can be picked up at this stage.
This panel is ready for priming. I am priming with the same product used for filling. It is mixed with reducer to thin it down. Being the same brand and same product even gives it more stability.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
I left all the small repairs to do while primer on other panels was baking. This way my time was being utilised more, and I couldn't fit the car and the panels in the oven at the same time anyway.
This is one of the guards after priming and rubbing. I was priming, rubbing, repairing all at once.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is one of the guards after priming and rubbing. I was priming, rubbing, repairing all at once.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Someone had painted the inside of the beetle black sometime earlier in it's life. This made things easier and although I could paint the inside the colour the outside is going to be (secret at this stage), I opted to go for the budget satin black.
A lot of older vehicles had this, and especially in the engine bay and boot.
This is easy to apply yourself, and would save you a lot of money if you were going to do all the inside bits yourself. This way if the only thing you cant do is the ouside topcoat, you will only have to pay for that bit.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
A lot of older vehicles had this, and especially in the engine bay and boot.
This is easy to apply yourself, and would save you a lot of money if you were going to do all the inside bits yourself. This way if the only thing you cant do is the ouside topcoat, you will only have to pay for that bit.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
No matter how clean you think your car is, dont be surprised if you find evidence of old repairs.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Even this second hand guard I picked up had an old repair. As the filler was in good condition and there was no evidence of rust, I smoothed it over and primed it up.
Filler is not as diabolical as some people think. If used correctly it achieves the required result.
It should not be used on seams, rust holes or any unstable surface.
Although if this was a true restoration, the old filler must come out.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
Filler is not as diabolical as some people think. If used correctly it achieves the required result.
It should not be used on seams, rust holes or any unstable surface.
Although if this was a true restoration, the old filler must come out.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
The smaller parking dents were filled with two part spot putty. This can be applied over painted surfaces, as long as the painted surface is stable and sanded completely with 180 grit first.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
This is me applying the primer in the oven with a full flow airwash mask on. If I was painting for extended periods of time I would have a suit on too.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Here you can see the bonnet and decklid painted inside with acrylic lacquer satin black.
Like I said, it is cheap and doesn't have to be perfect as this is not a show car. Doing the insides like this alone has saved me two days work, a couple of front door rubbers and well I suppose quite a substancial cost in two pack paint.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
Like I said, it is cheap and doesn't have to be perfect as this is not a show car. Doing the insides like this alone has saved me two days work, a couple of front door rubbers and well I suppose quite a substancial cost in two pack paint.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
The cache of panels ready to paint.
These have all been repaired, puttied as neccesary, primed, rubbed with 800grit and cleaned with prepwash.
The insides of the doors, bonnet and decklid have also been done in satin black.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
These have all been repaired, puttied as neccesary, primed, rubbed with 800grit and cleaned with prepwash.
The insides of the doors, bonnet and decklid have also been done in satin black.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
The car body rubbed with 240 grit.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Here it is in the oven dusted off, prepwashed and masked up.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
Another view.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
While it was in the oven, straight after priming, the door jambs and inside the engine bay and edges of bonnet area painted black.
You can also see here that I hazed some black on the primer in preparation for rubbing it back next weekend.
I also took the liberty of doing the sills behind where the sidesteps go, and all of the inner wheel arches. This was all steam cleaned last week before starting the project, so it was nice and clean, and now black instead of white.
More paint to protect against rust.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
You can also see here that I hazed some black on the primer in preparation for rubbing it back next weekend.
I also took the liberty of doing the sills behind where the sidesteps go, and all of the inner wheel arches. This was all steam cleaned last week before starting the project, so it was nice and clean, and now black instead of white.
More paint to protect against rust.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
This is it after the primer was baked and the paper removed, put aside ready for me to rub next weekend and get ready to paint. You can see the black door jambs, which will be masked off when it gets painted.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus ·
As this is a lengthy thread I will post a Questions thread so this can remain a bit neater for all to view.
That concludes my two days of work so far
This was all done on Fri 2/1 & Sat 3/1.
Two people, Me and the missus.
Ya gotta get one that will work on the dubs. Although, It is her car and she has got me working on it really.
That concludes my two days of work so far
This was all done on Fri 2/1 & Sat 3/1.
Two people, Me and the missus.
Ya gotta get one that will work on the dubs. Although, It is her car and she has got me working on it really.
hool ·
:thumb:thumb
What a great post Helbus, well done and thanks for putting in the effort to share the info with everyone!
I can't wait to see the end result!
:thumb:thumb
What a great post Helbus, well done and thanks for putting in the effort to share the info with everyone!
I can't wait to see the end result!
:thumb:thumb
Harko ·
Ill second that ,You just cant get enough of transformation pics ,And the colour surprise is working on me .Cheers
helbus ·
He He. I always like to keep a colour secret until late as possible. It stops people from forming a pre-conceived view of the finished product. 😀
koolkarmakombi ·
PINK!
helbus ·
Halfway through painting the Beetle.
All the panels are done, just the body to go.
I will post more pics once assy is complete so as to not give away the colour!
It's boring, nothing bizzare or anything 😀
All the panels are done, just the body to go.
I will post more pics once assy is complete so as to not give away the colour!
It's boring, nothing bizzare or anything 😀
helbus ·
It's all done.
As I said before I will post more pics when it is assembled.
Give me at least a week, as I will be doing it after work hours.
Catcha on the flip side.
Zooooooooooooooooooooooom. 😀
As I said before I will post more pics when it is assembled.
Give me at least a week, as I will be doing it after work hours.
Catcha on the flip side.
Zooooooooooooooooooooooom. 😀
vanderaj ·
Man, I'm looking forward to the pics!
The speed of a professional doing stuff is incredible! 🙂
Andrew
The speed of a professional doing stuff is incredible! 🙂
Andrew
helbus ·
The thing that makes the whole job quicker is the access to a workshop and equipment. I could not do this sort of job this good or quick at home. 😀
Anthiron ·
ahhh ...part 2......"The Crash"
pod ·
yeah no pics, must of happened in the great forum crash of 04
Anthiron ·
no no i mean an actual crash.....helbus' wife crashed the beetle that got resprayed
bugboymatt ·
What happened to all those pics ! 🙁 carn't see anything now !!
helbus ·
I have all the pics on file in order still, so I will put them all back up maybe on the weekend.
The I will have to start writing "Respray Beetle part III - Repairing a crash"
🙂
The I will have to start writing "Respray Beetle part III - Repairing a crash"
🙂
helbus ·
The pics are back. I had to re up-load them all one by one. Phew!
firefly ·
Common guys ease up Not Fleur's fault, unfortunately it is part of life. that when you get a nice car the police will take more interest in your car than a rust bucket, and if an accident will occur they will choose to hit your nice machine than a bus shelter. fact of Murphy..... Things will comme about that we dislike sometimes, does not mean that they are deliberate.Anthiron wrote:no no i mean an actual crash.....helbus' wife crashed the beetle that got resprayed
Cheers
T
helbus ·
Fleurs only fault was being on the correct side of the road when a Corolla decided to be on the wrong side of the road. Dunno if everyone knew that.
speedy ·
Hey Peter looks like you know your spray jobs pretty well. Do you know of anywhere I can get my 72' Superbug sprayed for a good price??
bugeyedbabe ·
Helbus,
I thought that was made very clear in the thread about the accident, that it was in no way Fleurs fault.
And anyone who suggests differently should recheck the rule books about which side is the 'right' side for cars to travel on...in case they cause the next accident by not doing so.
So technically, Fleur didnt crash the beetle, as much as she tried stopping someone else crashing into it. Pity she wasnt able to get the poor darling out of the way sooner.
But, at least Fleur is ok, and thats what matters most.
I thought that was made very clear in the thread about the accident, that it was in no way Fleurs fault.
And anyone who suggests differently should recheck the rule books about which side is the 'right' side for cars to travel on...in case they cause the next accident by not doing so.
So technically, Fleur didnt crash the beetle, as much as she tried stopping someone else crashing into it. Pity she wasnt able to get the poor darling out of the way sooner.
But, at least Fleur is ok, and thats what matters most.
barls ·
it depends on where you are and how much work prep work you are prepared to do. i paid $2500 for a complete respray and that was with me doing all the prep work. this was on the mid north coastspeedy wrote:Hey Peter looks like you know your spray jobs pretty well. Do you know of anywhere I can get my 72' Superbug sprayed for a good price??
helbus ·
Definitley expect to pay at least $2000 for something of quality. More for panel beating/ rust work required. Also factor in new rubbers and other bits you will probably have to get done at the same time.
Claudius ·
Great thread, Thanks for giving everyone information....
One thing tho, Ive worked in about 15 panel shops as a spray painter and if I was to use a roller to prime/hifill a panel Im sure I would be shot.. Repeatedly....
Probably not the best way if you want a decent finish...
One thing tho, Ive worked in about 15 panel shops as a spray painter and if I was to use a roller to prime/hifill a panel Im sure I would be shot.. Repeatedly....
Probably not the best way if you want a decent finish...
helbus ·
I beg to differ on that one.
I have been involved in the vehicle crash repair and restoration industry for a long time, and the roll prime system is with the times. Imagine if all crash cars were repaired with only a damage dozer, oxy welder and acrylic lacquer.
Noooo we use laser guided three axis measuring systems, electronic resistance spot welders and two part component urethane refinishes. We even use computers to do quotes.
Restoration is different though. The oxy welder and acrylic lacquer has it's place still. Although 500-700 hours labour is a lot to pay for, but if the customer is willing and wants it?
I have been involved in the vehicle crash repair and restoration industry for a long time, and the roll prime system is with the times. Imagine if all crash cars were repaired with only a damage dozer, oxy welder and acrylic lacquer.
Noooo we use laser guided three axis measuring systems, electronic resistance spot welders and two part component urethane refinishes. We even use computers to do quotes.
Restoration is different though. The oxy welder and acrylic lacquer has it's place still. Although 500-700 hours labour is a lot to pay for, but if the customer is willing and wants it?
dakota ·
Ive been a painter for 15 years doing resto but mostly insurance work and I have used rolll on primer (ppg) and know it does take skill to apply but does work very well for smaller repairs. I have found that it does not work so well with cheaper primers , so I agree with campayo if you use the correct method of application and products this will save a shit load of time money and again works sell.
vwsteve ·
I have also worked in the panel industry for a long time(over 15 yrs) and done many major restos, i laughed my head off when i saw the roller putting primer on!The best way is the old fashoined way and may i also add normal bog should not be put over paint, only special 2 pac bog in small doses should, no offence intended.
bbgo ·
I really apprciate being able to see a work in progress, I have brought my first beetle and am attempting to paint myself without any experience!! just to save a bit of cash.
oxomeloxo ·
gday. me and the missus are about to do the same thing you guys went through just wondering what your view on accrylic verse enamel top coat was.