1916\'s and so on (edited yet again) - stay on track please.

I have suspended the post.

Please don't start another until the Jim and Brad and the moderators have had a chance to look over the thread and understand what happened.

The thread in question may return.

Andrew


I suspended the thread temporarily whilst cleaning out all the sarcastic crap, insults and personal attacks. I will do so again if it degenerates for the third (or is the forth?) time - so please stick to the topic.

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

so wots the only way to get HP????????????? bearing mind that i support all type1 or type4 engine configurations

Cubic Inch, Turbo Charging or a combination of both

Is it about HP or engine efficiency?

Performance for me, is the ability to create the best HP per engine cc.

If you had a 2300cc engine producing 110hp and a 2000cc engine producing 105hp which is better?? The one with the most overall HP or the best HP/cc?

Personally I would prefer the 2300cc as would have more torque and develop the power at lower rpm. For a street car torque is your friend.

so really its personall preference, people have different driving styles and wot eva egine combo suits their needs is a good one

We are also aware that a particular engine builder prefers 1916s, we are also aware he builds fine engines, but be assured he is NOT the only engine builder that can screw together an engine that will last. I have a 1776 bult by Shimo from Hellbug that is about 13 years old and it still pulls easily to redline, and it has been driven hard all its life.


personal abuse and shit fighting are not acceptable - feel free to debate the topic, but keep th personal stuff out of it. The other party/s have been advised as well.

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

You will also note in my response it is my preference to have the larger capacity engine. I didnt say I was right or that everyone must have the larger capacity engine, just that I would prefer it. You should have worked that out already as you profess to know it all.

Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
If you had a 2300cc engine producing 110hp and a 2000cc engine producing 105hp which is better?? The one with the most overall HP or the best HP/cc?

Quote:
Originally posted by 1964_Notch
Personally I would prefer the 2300cc as would have more torque and develop the power at lower rpm. For a street car torque is your friend.

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

ahh i see the post will soon enough be suspended again. i am just about to build a 1916cc but only cause i haven't then money to go bigger. that and i like my gear box. i came on here expecting vw people to be helping other vw people. please guys keep the personal hatred to yourselves. Now. while im typing. can anyone give me a rough estimate of what sorta hp or 1/4 mile times i would be getting out of a 1916cc with twin 40 idfs an engle 120 cam with standard lift rockers, hd valve springs, counterweight crank, heads have had work but dunno how much, 1200 dollars worth so i was told. I know its gonna be hard without the proper info about the heads etc but i just want a ball park figure. also lets just say umm, stock compression, i dunno what its gonna be yet. thanks in advance for any help that you guys can give.

[ Edited on 7/9/2006 by bajaben ]

Haven't you built it yet???!!! Ignore the comments in the above posts...some people appear a weeeee bit touchy...but I'm sure they all love each other...sorta...kinda..maybe not:kiss my "stock" 1916 (oops...hope i don't offend) non counterweighted crank ported 040 heads etc ran 13.6 in my Manx,,,read that it was a streeter and very light. Scared the &hit out of me as you know how rough the end of the strip at the Bohle is..try stopping with 4 wheel drum brakes!!! That was back in 1997 and from what i understand the 1916's these days are better. My stroked donk did 14.6 and fell to bits the year before in the same car..I couldn't comment on the HP output..this varies greatly depending on the overall combo of the donk..just hurry up and build it and see how it goes !!!😉

[ Edited on 7-9-06 by Mick H ]

lol... sounds like it was fun, Mick!

...

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

bajaben wrote:ahh i see the post will soon enough be suspended again. i am just about to build a 1916cc but only cause i haven't then money to go bigger. that and i like my gear box. i came on here expecting vw people to be helping other vw people. please guys keep the personal hatred to yourselves. Now. while im typing. can anyone give me a rough estimate of what sorta hp or 1/4 mile times i would be getting out of a 1916cc with twin 40 idfs an engle 120 cam with standard lift rockers, hd valve springs, counterweight crank, heads have had work but dunno how much, 1200 dollars worth so i was told. I know its gonna be hard without the proper info about the heads etc but i just want a ball park figure. also lets just say umm, stock compression, i dunno what its gonna be yet. thanks in advance for any help that you guys can give.

[ Edited on 7/9/2006 by bajaben ]

ball park? 65hp at the wheels.

Nothing against 1916s at all, I had one in my '76.

Any engine combo is fine as long as it suits your needs any it makes you happy.

thats very true 1964_notch

yeah not built yet 🙁 everytime i get time to do it i find that my puppy has stolen a part and either eaten it or burried it hahaha. but yeah, im gonna set this engine up with nothing crazy compression wise because im saving to put probably a small blower on it and i really don't wanna have to change stuff around later. thanks for the help guys. this is more what i expected from the forum, when in need we all end up pulling together.

a well built hipo 1916 can produce around 100-120hp at wheels.

and with injection some say about 140hp.

ah wats a 1916.

yep and bare in mind people that even though one of these nice and powerful 1916's might be costly.

its sometimes vital should you want to compete officially in some events to keep a vw motor i believe and also with this you stay in the under 2 litre class.

VERY important for some motorsport events.

an ej20t would be VERY difficult opponents which you would be pitted against.

1916s aren't costly IMO - there's no expensive aftermarket rods or cranks inside them!!

makntracks wrote:ah wats a 1916.

Its the same as a 1915cc engine.

94 bore x 69 stroke =1915.4cc

I've had to delete/edit all the $hit out of this thread - a good point was made in that it is not fair to suspend the whole thread because people actually might learn something from the useful info here......so please keep the insults, and personal crap out it (including the sly sarcastic remarks that you feel may not be directed at one person in particular).

VWCOOL wrote:1916s aren't costly IMO - there's no expensive aftermarket rods or cranks inside them!!

thats why i said well built. H-beam rods, forged counterweighted crank .etc

thats when 1916's look expensive.

Here is my ultimate street 1915.
This combo would most likely change depending on what the final use is,
but I would drive this on the road no worries.
For specific racing use, I would up the cam and comp and use larger venturies, and shorter rods.

CW crank.
FW about 12lbs(8 dowel).
Clutch around 1700lbs with stock disc and pressure plate located tight in FW.
C95 cam with stock rockers or
V26 Engle with 1.5 rockers.
Stock length rods(I like the scat H-beams or eagles ( good value))
"B" piston kit and shortened barrells
(That way can use short pushrods)
Stock early oil pump.
Crank ground to give 1.5 thou clearance on rods and 2.0 on mains.
Cam bearings oil clearance checked, and ground .25 if oil clearance exceeds .002".
small deep sump.
9.0:1 with .040 deck
Out of the box(porting) CB wedge ports, with spring shims fitted,
but flycut to attain comp reqd(maintaining tight deck).
48IDAs with 37 vents, dowelled manifolds to heads.
Max 1 5/8 merge.
Stock late cooling system.

For racing-only I would use a shorter rod,
but fanshroud to carb clearance and fitting it, is an issue for street use.

Did I miss anything.

Anyone else have a favourite combo that they would like to build or have built?

[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by dangerous ]

Pi 3.1416 not 22/7
=1915.38

Aluminium case
69mm forged counterweighted crank
fk8 cam
Cb super race rods 5.5" (these are th h beams)
1.4 rockers
94mm b (Stroker) piston and barrell kit
aluminium pushrods
aircooled.net L6 (drd) ported heads with 42x37.5 valves
9.5:1 compression
microtech injection (or something similar) perhaps using injection perfection throttle bodies.

that would be the main parts used for the 1916 i would like to build.

should make good power and hopefully rev to 7500

22/7 is an APPROXIMATE value for pi and equals 3.14285.
The ACTUAL value for pi is 3.14158 etc
So check your maths again.

[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by dangerous ]

sorry astro...dangerous is right...but that is NOT the topic of thread..come on...its just wasting reading space.

That sounds like a good combo, "1916"
Is this something you are currently building or planning?
Have your K8 checked by Surecam in Sydney incase it is one of the ones that has a harmonic issue.
Any particular reason for the long rod? More stroke in your future?

[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by dangerous ]

its an engine i am planning.

yeah the case also im thinking of getting a cb aluminium "super case" which is already clearanced for 86mm stroke.

so should i decide to up the cc down the track could replace the 69mm crank with any other of choice without too much hassle.

im formerly known as 71superbug...

I have an old type 3 TLE engine I was given by a friend. I was thinking of going up to a 1641 but that sort of screws up which class I'd fit into for khanacrosses. So a 1916 is a better option if I plan to have the case machined at all for bigger pots. So, what can expect with everything else standard (crank/rods/heads) but just 94mm pots? I am talking ultra budget. How long would it all last? What will be the difference or should I stay with a stock 1584? The longterm plan is a turbo setup of some sort. 😉

p.s. this would all go in a midmount tubeframe car with swingaxle and a BJ front beam.

someone on here....bizarre maybe has a stock engine with 94's and i think kadrons........ithink its bizarre.

pete wood wrote:p.s. this would all go in a midmount tubeframe car with swingaxle and a BJ front beam.

Hawhawhaw Pete, IRS....IRS....IRS....IRS is your mantra.

Cant you see it? With those lush fabricated tubular upper and lower "A" arms and uprights? (TSV is drooling) pushrod suspension along the top of the geabox and adjustable inboard roll bars, inboard disks............................ ahhhhhhhhhh.................(dreams for F-Vee)!!!
SRY a bit off topic, but........

L8tr
E

TSV, swing axle = cheaper, lighter, easier, better for tight tracks.

Now back to the slander. What do I get for 1916cc and stock everything else?

my combo would be,

ally case, full flowed
scat h-beams
72mm stroke crank (to get closer to the 2000cc mark)
w130 engle cam
standard rockers
cb wedge port heads with 42, 37 valves
and running dual fuel injection throttle bodies like the one vw paradise sell, fully programmable.

hey dave what kind of a shorter rod would you run? I looked at using my 1200 rods in my 1915 but looked a bit week.

The 1800 type 4 can be lightened and rebushed for use in type 1.

But I was thinking more of a custom rod like the Pauter or Carrillo.

Many moons ago, Bergs tried a Ford 289 Windsor and 170 persuit rod.
These are a tad longer and shorter respectively, than 5".
The short rods also need BDC interference checking and clearancing, of the pin boss of the piston.

1200 rods are weak looking, but I have seen them survive OK in 7000rpm 1835 drag engine.
It had 20mm pins, but I would be scared to use them myself with 22 pin.
Possibly removing the bush and hone the hole with a graphite or teflon coating in the hole.

Now I am rambling.
Bolt may also be an issue.

Shorter rod may need a slightly wider lobe centre and a little more duration on camshaft.

[ Edited on 10-10-2006 by dangerous ]

My Combo

94 p & c's
69 counterweighted, re ground to 72.3 (or about that, to give 1999.99cc's)
Std mag case (PRC has to use original case material if i ever want to go down that path)
H beam rods-Chevy journal
engle 120
1.25:1 ratio rockers, (with the 120, 253 dur @ 0.050', and just .496' lift)
Cb wedge port, slightly tidied up (top spec)
cromo push rods
billet followers etc
twin 48 ida's
1 5/8 exhuast

plus lots of other bits and pieces.

pete wood wrote:TSV, swing axle = cheaper, lighter, easier, better for tight tracks.

Now back to the slander. What do I get for 1916cc and stock everything else?

What is 'everything else' ?

I've got 2 alternatives now.

1. stock heads (machined of course), valves, cam, some sort of headers, a single carb, probably a pict or something.

2. above interals but drawthrough turbo/blower system. will it cope with that?

Put Kaddies on it; forget a stocko pict. It doesn't feed 1600cc very well; things get worse with 25 percent more capacity

Kads cost too much money, I'll go a turbo and a cheap 2 barrel, same cost, more power. 👍

my 1916 would be right up daimo's alley,
69mm old forged berg crank
prob go with carrillo's
welded 044's maybe moved exhaust guides 44X37.5 gb 1.4 rockers
gb316 cam
dry sumped
48 ida's
as21
would be old school but fun!

BiX wrote:My Combo

94 p & c's
69 counterweighted, re ground to 72.3 (or about that, to give 1999.99cc's)
Std mag case (PRC has to use original case material if i ever want to go down that path)
H beam rods-Chevy journal
engle 120
1.25:1 ratio rockers, (with the 120, 253 dur @ 0.050', and just .496' lift)
Cb wedge port, slightly tidied up (top spec)
cromo push rods
billet followers etc
twin 48 ida's
1 5/8 exhuast

plus lots of other bits and pieces.

Any updates on your motor Bix ?

Here is my ultimate street 1915.
This combo would most likely change depending on what the final use is,
but I would drive this on the road no worries.
For specific racing use, I would up the cam and comp and use larger venturies, and shorter rods.

CW crank.
FW about 12lbs(8 dowel).
Clutch around 1700lbs with stock disc and pressure plate located tight in FW.
C95 cam with stock rockers or
V26 Engle with 1.5 rockers.
Stock length rods(I like the scat H-beams or eagles ( good value))
"B" piston kit and shortened barrells
(That way can use short pushrods)
Stock early oil pump.
Crank ground to give 1.5 thou clearance on rods and 2.0 on mains.
Cam bearings oil clearance checked, and ground .25 if oil clearance exceeds .002".
small deep sump.
9.0:1 with .040 deck
Out of the box(porting) CB wedge ports, with spring shims fitted,
but flycut to attain comp reqd(maintaining tight deck).
48IDAs with 37 vents, dowelled manifolds to heads.
Max 1 5/8 merge.
Stock late cooling system.

For racing-only I would use a shorter rod,
but fanshroud to carb clearance and fitting it, is an issue for street use.

whats the advantage of this combo, would it be a higher reving engine? how hard would it be to fit the standard tin ware?

Craig Torrens wrote:Here's my 1916 power..............POBJOY of course, is there any other ?

i think there are a couple of people that have dared to risk the copyright infringment.😂

who looks after Cambells 1916, it seems to go really well?

does EFI add to a final horsepower reading or just make an engine more driveable throughout the rev range?......

....i've been told this is a similar feeling from the twin plugs, is that the case for those that have upgraded to it?........

....i suppose i would be pushing my luck for before and after dyno sheets for that upgrade? (ps i looked at the set up of them at Stans and like the value, execution and principle behind it, i long for detailed pictures that i wasn't game to ask to take as it was a while ago)...........

sooooooooooo would it be a worthwhile thing for me to go to twin plugs and EFI ? even with thoughts towards computer contolled ignition too boot

for sure i like D.B's combo back on page one, seems a little familiar

Here's mine;

Fully flowed and clearanced RIMCO case (for that future upgrade if needed 👍)
CB performance MAXI 3 full flow pump - blueprinted
CB performance lightweight lifters
Scat 1.25:1 4340 pro comp ratio rockers
CB performance 2242 camshaft (294 intake duration)
CB performance Magnum 8640 chromoly straight cut gear set
New Steve Timms ported and cc'd 043 heads, 40x35 valves, ported, chromoly retainers, stainless valves, dual springs (to run 8:1 static compression)
Match ported intake manifolds
44 IDF Webers
CB 69mm welded crankshaft with 8 dowels, balanced
Scat 4340 chromoly I beam rods with ARP bolts
12lb german forged flywheel, 8 dowelled.
Gene berg deep sump extension (1.5 lt extra oil approx)
Aircooled.net 6160 alloy pushrods
New Mahle A's P&B that have been balanced
1 5/8 s/s (supposed to be s/s) sidewinder exhaust
Bosch 009 with compufire module
MSD 6AL ignition and MSD blaster 2 coil
Scat billet serpantine pulley kit

I've a pair of 48mm EFI throttle bodies for it in the shed too. Not 100% sure it's worth the dollar outlay to upgrade to EFI though... Quick estimates indicate around $2-$3k could easily be spent all upon the entire EFI conversion.... hmmm

Craig Torrens wrote:

BiX wrote:My Combo

94 p & c's
69 counterweighted, re ground to 72.3 (or about that, to give 1999.99cc's)
Std mag case (PRC has to use original case material if i ever want to go down that path)
H beam rods-Chevy journal
engle 120
1.25:1 ratio rockers, (with the 120, 253 dur @ 0.050', and just .496' lift)
Cb wedge port, slightly tidied up (top spec)
cromo push rods
billet followers etc
twin 48 ida's
1 5/8 exhuast

plus lots of other bits and pieces.

Any updates on your motor Bix ?

Yep it was built last year, and has been running, Only done one event, as rallying has taken all my time and money. But aim stopping the rally for a while to focus on my own car. it is a bit of a screamer engine. Not much below 3k, then comes on very strong to 6k plus. Will rev right out to 7k plus. No major issues and will be taken to dyno day here in july.....

Edit - One issue....noise!!! with the 48ida's and 1 5/8 exhaust and fatboy, we estimate over 98dB.... maybe even 100, so need to make it quieter for mt cotton and lakeside.

Call me a masochist, but has any one gone done the road of offset grind a crank to 78mm and used narrowed golf rods with say 90.4 pots?

Newt

You will need an early 6 volt crank due to the oil holes location, and you must nitride again to get the hard surface suitable.
The one I have seen had extra large radii to help with strength,
but still flexed around enough to cause a fron pulley leak.

Counterweighting would help,
but all this costs more to do than an off-the-shelf china steel-nitrided 78 (not cast).

Do that with a 94 bore and you will be very happy.

Just what I'm building for a trike now Dave, but as you know I had issues with the crank needing work, and now the CB heads, one getting replaced by CB for a casting flaw after the chambers were finished !!!! DOH !
Still 2165 seems a nice combo, worked in the chop for a few years that saw up to 9000 RPM, shame the heads couldn't keep up !

Dangerous,

Ive had the offset ground crank and modified Golf rods for a couple of years. Where in WA would you get the crank Nitrided?

Also any thoughts on a heavier front pully to dampen vibration? Though Im happy just for a little more power and limit the revs to around 5k.

The package is leaning towards 90.5 B pots, welded heads (40 inlet 35 exhaust), 12lb 8 dowl flywheel, compression a tad under 10:1, twin SUs (45mm - cos' I have them on the shelf), the AP3 cam, 009 ( or 010) dizzy.

Newt

As a topic for conversation - whats the diference in drive-abilty of a 78x90.5 verses 69x94????

As a topic for conversation - whats the diference in drive-abilty of a 78x90.5 verses 69x94????

oh dear🙅

Sorry, I thought it was serious question.

Newt

Craig fruther update after dyno day,

130hp at the rear wheels. The curve just starts to flatten at readline ~7k

Next step is a better ignition as its just a std coil and 009 at the moement, and some dyno tuning, but going for more midrange.

Great result Bix.............can you post your dyno chart in the dyno section, would be good to see your power curve.

if i could build a engine , i would but it would suck. ha

so ill go for a pobjoy twin plugged steroid donk. its all a dream at the moment.

BiX wrote:Craig fruther update after dyno day,

130hp at the rear wheels. The curve just starts to flatten at readline ~7k

Next step is a better ignition as its just a std coil and 009 at the moement, and some dyno tuning, but going for more midrange.

how much did that lovely engine set you back? (ballpark)

Dyno chart up in racing section.

Price, i haven't really added it up...... but 5 figures..... Everything was new except for the dizzy and coil. Plus the machine work and treatment of the crank etc adds cost, barrels, pistons and chambers are ceramic coated etc etc. It was built to run as a club car, ie be able to drive on the street when required. No problem doing a trip to sydney for racing, but also at the same time not meant to do weekly duties.

If it wanted to get a bigger engine would i be better off building my own, eg buying parts and putting them toget or would i be better of buying a turnkey one.

What are the best increases, like cylinder wall thicknesses etc. I just wanna know a rough price on each one as well.

I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.

Cheers, if this isnt in the right spot please move it.

71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:If it wanted to get a bigger engine would i be better off building my own, eg buying parts and putting them toget or would i be better of buying a turnkey one.

What are the best increases, like cylinder wall thicknesses etc. I just wanna know a rough price on each one as well.

I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.

Cheers, if this isnt in the right spot please move it.

Got to laugh at some of the "must have's"

71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.

Purchase a 911!

🙂

71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:If it wanted to get a bigger engine would i be better off building my own, eg buying parts and putting them toget or would i be better of buying a turnkey one.

What are the best increases, like cylinder wall thicknesses etc. I just wanna know a rough price on each one as well.

I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.

Cheers, if this isnt in the right spot please move it.

Hi Josh,

some big asks there....

Firstly, I would not spend all that money on parts and then maybe assembly it incorrectly... or one part incorrectly.. like oil pickup etc.. Best to buy one from an expert engine builder..

Burn outs require some horsepower so probably a 1776 engine would do the trick... or larger and more expensive..

but remember, that once You move away from a 1600 standard engine , everything gets very expensive the larger You go....
and soon doubles or triples in price... and will probably use a lot of fuel...

I am happy with My 1600 single port engine even though it has the semi auto gearbox and no clutch pedal.. lol
single Brasilan weber carby.. Genie extractor exhaust system.
165 x 15 tyres..

I can only spin the wheels on gravel or grass... lol
but I can drive out on the highway at 120kmh ...
[but only between the hours of 2am and 4am... lol ,
so I'm told... 😂]

late Super beetle gearboxes have a higher diff ratio etc.. so they are used for highway cars usually... but a lower diff ratio will give You better acceleration... You need to pick one??
Lower diff ratio means higher RPM at highway speeds..

check out a few of the advertisers in VWMA magazine...

like Gary at VW classic volkswagen at Kirawee in NSW
www.veedubclassic.com.au 0295215333
there are plenty of others in the Magazine too...

cheers

LEE

PS: I don't know Gary...

If building a streetable 1916, are there any other parts outside of the motor that need to be beefed up?

gear box, brakes for a start.

Comes down to how you drive, but I would cetainly upgrade the way the gearbox is mounted as a min. Look at using quality gearbox mounts, a bellhousing strap of some kind and a 'mid mount' to support the gearbox. If you intend to use tyres with good grip, then you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit as the better tyres will cause "tramping" on launching away from lights etc

Make sure the gearbox is in good condition, and if you intend to do drag starts or you're aggresive with launches then I would fit a super diff.

As for brakes, make sure you have discs fitted up front if the car is an early model.

Depending on the HP level of the motor you will also need larger fuel lines and an electric fuel pump and regulator.

👍

Craig Torrens wrote:you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit
👍

Where can one get these???😂

silver wrote:

Craig Torrens wrote:you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit
👍

Where can one get these???😂

Maybe a swap meet ? !😂

Craig Torrens wrote:

silver wrote:

Craig Torrens wrote:you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit
👍

Where can one get these???😂

Maybe a swap meet ? !😂

surely not, could a business afford to attend one?

Lee,

Where does the yellow vacume line go?

Cheers

Newt

68AutoBug wrote:late Super beetle gearboxes have a higher diff ratio etc.. so they are used for highway cars usually... but a lower diff ratio will give You better acceleration... You need to pick one??
Lower diff ratio means higher RPM at highway speeds..

actually the later boxes have a lower diff ratio lee.
when they went from the double side plate to single side plate they went from 4.125 to 3.88

barls wrote:

68AutoBug wrote:late Super beetle gearboxes have a higher diff ratio etc.. so they are used for highway cars usually... but a lower diff ratio will give You better acceleration... You need to pick one??
Lower diff ratio means higher RPM at highway speeds..

actually the later boxes have a lower diff ratio lee.
when they went from the double side plate to single side plate they went from 4.125 to 3.88

Hey Barls
🤪3.88 is a taller ratio than 4.125🤖
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

😂😂😂

He He....lower in number-higher in ratio... get's em every time !!!!😁

The part hardly anyone seems to realize though is at the same time they dropped 4th gear back from 0.89 to 0.92 to compensate for the diff change.

I've had both a 4.125 and a 3.88 box in my bug and the difference in 4th gear is only about 50rpm.

They both cruise almost bang on 3000rpm at 100km/h with stock size tyres.

I'm going 2332cc with my new buggy motor.

Rima case CNC machined
84mm forged chromoly C/W Scat crank
94mm Wiseco forged pistons
Mahle cylinders
Scat H beam rods
Scat C95 cam
CB lightweight lifters
44 x 37.5 Wedgeport heads
1.25 rockers
Bosch 019 Distributor
Dual 44 IDF Webers with matchported manifolds


26mm Schadek oil pump set up for full flow

would you need to run an electric fuel pump with this or is std ok thanks

1916 wrote:Aluminium case
69mm forged counterweighted crank
fk8 cam
Cb super race rods 5.5" (these are th h beams)
1.4 rockers
94mm b (Stroker) piston and barrell kit
aluminium pushrods
aircooled.net L6 (drd) ported heads with 42x37.5 valves
9.5:1 compression
microtech injection (or something similar) perhaps using injection perfection throttle bodies.

that would be the main parts used for the 1916 i would like to build.

should make good power and hopefully rev to 7500

One suggestion for you. Get yourself a stroker crank, say 76 or 78mm. If you are buying all that other great gear, may as well step it up a bit. Besides, the heads sound like they can suck and blow heaps through those bigger ports. Forget the 1916, over 2.0 litres would be real nice.

what sort if deck height should one strive for on a bigger engine e.g a 1776 or 2332 etc??

40 thou - 1mm

so just the standard tolerance is ok?

have a read here

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-parts-cat/vw-engine-build-combos/

thanks. 🙂