EJ Series Engine into a Buggy

Well there I was with a clean looking shed... seems I need to get me a project .... oops there is a buggy that needs and EJ motor up its ass.




Yep she fits like a glove ...



Sump won't hang that low for long .....

Here we go again...........

AHHHH water cooled the answer to everything :thumb But the question is why are you taking pics and not working on it instead 😀 And when is the production line on the sumps starting ya must have several ready to do now :thumb

hehe EXAMS.... I go walking every 2 hrs to clear my head and just happened to have a Cameras ....

Production line - soon very very soon..... We currently plan on having the following items for sale to make this conversion much much easier and quicker:
- Shortened Sump Kit - This will be an exchange kit and includes a shortened sump approx 75mm less than stock but same capacity and a matching pickup
- Rear engine mount sub frame - this is a bolt on unit and give your horns all the support you need.
- Exhaust Systems - both stainless and mild steel. Kit includes gaskets, cat, exhaust and mounting hardware, ready to bolt on.
- Throttle Body Inverter - thsi lets you fit the EJ into bugs and buses, it turns the throttle body 160 degrees and allow clearnance on the body , fitment of pod filter and lets the stock VW throttle cable be used.
- Front mounter Radiator Kit - Include new alloy radiator, thermo setup with shroud

As well as these bolt on items custom units are also availible as far as radiators and exhausts go. Engineer approval of EJ Conversions using our kits is also availible for approx $80 if requierd and all items come with instructions.

Please note all kits listed above are sold complete with all bolts and brakets to fit. Complete EJ Mounting kist will also be availible which will include EVERTHING you need to take your EJ and bolt it into your VW. EJ's can also be supplied at competitive prices with warranties.

Yep we have set on a direction and are no folloing it pretty hard. This buggy with be finished pretty soon and will be the test bed of all our products....

you keep saying "WE" and "OUR".........................who is "we" and "our"? surely you don't mean your wife...................she should have disowned you years ago !

hehe no you are correct I don't.... I mean me and my business associates. All will be revealed shortly enough... just putting the finishing touches on the Business side of things .....

Buggybrad...........................................Bill Gates !

mmm not ... hopefully our products will have less bugs and if they do have bugs then I expect our customers would be less accepting than his of them.

Please note that advertisements, chain letters, pyramid schemes, and solicitations are inappropriate on this forum.

This looks dangerously close to an advertisement.......🙂

Buggy Brad wrote:Production line - soon very very soon..... We currently plan on having the following items for sale to make this conversion much much easier and quicker:
- Shortened Sump Kit - This will be an exchange kit and includes a shortened sump approx 75mm less than stock but same capacity and a matching pickup
- Rear engine mount sub frame - this is a bolt on unit and give your horns all the support you need.
- Exhaust Systems - both stainless and mild steel. Kit includes gaskets, cat, exhaust and mounting hardware, ready to bolt on.
- Throttle Body Inverter - thsi lets you fit the EJ into bugs and buses, it turns the throttle body 160 degrees and allow clearnance on the body , fitment of pod filter and lets the stock VW throttle cable be used.
- Front mounter Radiator Kit - Include new alloy radiator, thermo setup with shroud

As well as these bolt on items custom units are also availible as far as radiators and exhausts go. Engineer approval of EJ Conversions using our kits is also availible for approx $80 if requierd and all items come with instructions.

Please note all kits listed above are sold complete with all bolts and brakets to fit. Complete EJ Mounting kist will also be availible which will include EVERTHING you need to take your EJ and bolt it into your VW. EJ's can also be supplied at competitive prices with warranties.

Yep we have set on a direction and are no folloing it pretty hard. This buggy with be finished pretty soon and will be the test bed of all our products....

[Edited on 16-6-2004 by lexm]

Chilll out, Brad is a moderator so I'm guessing he is pretty aware of the rules, seeing as he helped set them up........

Sounds great Brad ! The buggy looks like a fun little toy too.

When are you ever going to get back onto the Mega Manx though, with all these little distractions ?

Wow Brad, let us know when you have your 'demo' sump pan and engine sub frame made up. I may be interested if it will fit the Eureka and the price is right. Went for a spin in an EA71 powered Eureka last night and it was prety quick, so an EJ20 powered one is going to be great!

lexm wrote:This looks dangerously close to an advertisement.......🙂

Good thing you put a smilie on the end. Hate for anyone to take you seriously. Although it appears Doug did 🙂

The rules seem to state no advertising, but we all advertise stuff to sell it in the "Buying and Selling" forum.

In the rules for the buy and sell sectio it states:

For our commercial traders (ie those whose primary business is the sale of goods or services):

The Commonwealth Trade Practices Act and your state's Sale of Goods act (or similar) apply here, just as if someone bought from you across the counter

You must put in a price of the goods you have for sale, along with indicative shipping costs.

If you do a lot of business here, please consider sponsoring the forum to offset our operating costs. It's cheap.

There seems to be a bit of contradiction between these rules and the board rules. ie. Board rules say no advertising. But advertising is the whole point of the Buy and Sell section.

I guess Brad counts as a forum sponsor since he arranges web space etc for the forum and does allot of behind the scenes work. So as a forum Sponsor the company currently known as "we" 🙂 can list their services, I guess.

Anyway, enough off topic discussion for me...

I'm interested in the EJ conversion gear, especially the throttle body inverter, exhaust, and shirt sump.

Keep us all informed of progress Brad. And let us know when the company currently known as "we" is ready for business.


[Edited on 17-6-2004 by MikeM]

"For our commercial traders (ie those whose primary business is the sale of goods or services)"

Man anyone who thinks I do this as my primary business really is dreaming in a BIG way .......

Although I dunno if it is an add as nothing is actually availible ...... not that it matter as I am guessing you are just trying to get a response......... now back to the shed .....

Buggy Brad wrote:..... not that it matter as I am guessing you are just trying to get a response.......

Bored at work...

Brad and DJ mech hmmm? just fishing

tonyg wrote:Brad and DJ mech hmmm? just fishing

Hehehehe, That's the funniest thing I've heard in a long time.

Hey brad,
Had a look at your new project. Thumbs up, except for one thing....

the ej motor is missing 2 cams, LOL 😀

P.s Curious to see what the sump kit will look like

Clayton at DJ informs me he isn't goint to do them anymore as he has to much work on.

Also I work for myself and would be a very bad employee as the Boss would always be wrong ..hehe

The sumps will look about 75 mm shorter and larger .........

Brad I have asked chris to post a big photo for me on the ej22 I am doing now ,you can see the header tank* fixed to the where the air con would be the gold bit you can see near the ally plate .

As the radator is at the front and low ,i have fitted a blead pipe to the top of the radator as to allow the air to run back to the header tank ,this is were you would fill the H2o .

any way I hope this gives some one some ideas or help
my radator is 600mm long x 300mm and a 3 row core .
seagull

:beer

seagull wrote:Brad I have asked chris to post a big photo for me on the ej22 I am doing now ,you can see the header tank* fixed to the where the air con would be the gold bit you can see near the ally plate .

As the radator is at the front and low ,i have fitted a blead pipe to the top of the radator as to allow the air to run back to the header tank ,this is were you would fill the H2o .

any way I hope this gives some one some ideas or help
my radator is 600mm long x 300mm and a 3 row core .
seagull

:beer

Its still not good but here it is . I will work on it later for you seagull. (this is as close as I get to workin' on a suby..lol)

thanks Moose I told you , in the end you would come to the other side
and who has a subaru in there shed chris .

brad I sent it 2 u as an email

Chris

Thank for the pic, BUT you can't actually see the tank in the photo ..

I get another phot brad and email it to you , seagull

Thanks,
well the prototype sumps are done, fitting will occur next week. We took 85mm off her and didn't loose ANY oil capacity from the standard one ....

Very cool ...... :party

Well the stock EJ sump sits at about 160mm from teh base of teh case and hold 6L of oil. The new and improved EJ Sump sits about 85mm from the bottom of the case and holds 6L. This means that we can now put the EJ series into the Buggy and loose 15mm of ground clearance over a type 4 and about 35mm ground clearance over a type 1.

With the installation of a Kombi Transmission Kit from Custom Offroad the engine can easily be angles slightly and the sump design allows for this.

The sump retains factory engine mounts and exhaust flanges. Stock Dipstick is also used but will need to be re-marked.

Yep now the ground clearance issue is sorted must get back to those twin muffler and single cat exhaust designs.....

Looks good.

In the subaru SAE paper for the EJ engine it mentions that special care was put into the shape of the oil tray and the windage tray. Hopefully the shortened sumps don't lead to oil aeration problems.

Here is the SAE paper.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/SAE_boxer.pdf

Attached is the particular section I'm referring to (p11). Hopefully you will have no issues with your design as you are keeping the Windage tray.

I'm not trying to be negative or have a go you, it's just a concern I have with the shortening of the sumps. The SAE implies a signifigant amount of R&D was spend on the sump and now were're hacking it up to get it under a buggy. 😠

Time will tell I guess once there are a few cars running around with shortened sumps on them.

I hope my concerns are unjustified and I hope your design works well. That way I can get you to do one for me 🙂

[Edited on 23-6-2004 by MikeM]

hehe funny that you mention that as I actually read that paper before we made it. I spoke to the Subaru Guru's and showed them what we have made. They beleive it will work fine.

In the sump we have modified we have allowed for the aeration and retained the two top baffles, crank splash shield and stock oil level. After talking to the Subaru Engineers I was happy that the areas solved by Subaru where done so with these additions.

The depth of the EJ Sump assists with Surge, a problem we have solved with baffleing. Due to the design of the sump and the EJ Case the oil pickup can not run dry until the vehicle hits about 45 degrees or over for a prolonged period. If this happens you are in the poo anyway and I suggest you switch of you engine and crawl out of the buggy ..

We have also allowed for the engine being in the buggy backwards, unlike the stock EJ Sump which is designed to go in the front of the vehicle.

Oh well time will tell 😎

I must say I think it was very stupid of Subaru not to take buggies into consideration when they were builing this baby......

Buggy Brad wrote:In the sump we have modified we have allowed for the aeration and retained the two top baffles, crank splash shield and stock oil level.

So why does the dip-stick need to be re-marked if the oil level is the same?

That is a good question Mike , thanks for asking 😀

Ok, it was probably badly written ... what I mean is that on a stock dip stick you would expect the oil to sit in the middle of the marks. Now teh max oil level is the same as before but teh minimu will be slightly higher. What we suggest is that when you firts fill her up with the factory quantity of oil you mark your stick so you know exactly where a full ej sits on your engine / sump. That way you can better judge your particular engine.

The modified sump 3.6L mark is exactly the same as the stock sump for 3.6L mark and after that it is stock so the capacity is the same, does that make sense ?

That makes sense. The full mark stays the same but the distance between the full mark and the low mark is less than the stock dipstick due to the outward expansion of the sump. So the low mark needs to be re-marked higher than stock. 😎

Now I follow. Thanks for clearing that up 🙂

yes BUT ... the bottom stock mark doesn't move either as the dip stick doesn't record the oil level until it is well up near the 3.6L mark. The factory sump would have like 2.5L of oil in it and nothing on the dip stick.

ONLY the stock oil level will vary slightly and this isn't actually market from factory it is just something I thought should / will be done..

Now I am just confussing myself .....
😎

I think I get what you are saying. As long as we are confusing everybody else then I'm happy. If I get enthused I will draw a quick diagram in photoshop to visualize the explanation. Or I might not. I know what you mean, and you know what you mean, so I guess that covers the important people 🙂

I will have to drop over some time and check it out in the flesh and have a catch up chat about other projects.

:alien

The sump looks quite err... rugged.
Can you post a pic of it on the motor. Any idea on prices yet?

rugged..... interesting word for somthing that gets hit before anything else on the vehicle.

I should have a pic today some time. The shape is very much dictated by gaining maximum ground clearance and retaining maximum oil capacity while allowing the retention of factory engine mounts, exhaust Flanges, dip stick, oil filter and internal baffling and windage tray.

After fitting it to the engine a few hours ago I can positively say you can not fit these sumps while the EJ is still in the car. Also you need to remove adapter plate and engine mounts as well as putting studs in the case to replace the 6mm bolts that come from factory. Once this was done it took about 5 mins to fit up.

Looks prett cool :party

Hmm, OK, so a bit of work involved in fitting your shortened sump.
After you have fitted it does that still mean you need to drop the motor out if you need to take the sump off?

Ok, it is fitted up and it sits 25mm lower than the rear transmission crossmember. With a type 2 transmission kit from COR this will mean the EJ will sit pretty much flat.



Jenny, yes you need to take your engine out if you want to remove the sump. Why would you want to remove a sump in the car though ? Not like you can do anything in there. It is physically IMPOSSIBLE to make a shortened sump that you can pull on and off in the car without being stupid and putting sleeves in for every bolt.

In the last 10 years of vehicle destruction I have never pulled a sump off in the car. It is the same as you can't split a VW case in the car.

Anyway I would recommend the sump is fitted to the vehicle as part of the conversion before you put the EJ in the car. You will need it in to build the crossmember anyway.

Now back to the rear engine crossmember and support system. ..... Bolt on ........

I give it a big thumbs up.

Painted black it will look ok under there, better than having the low original.

There are a lot of cars you can't take the sump off without taking the motor out, so that is not unusual.

the finished sumps will be powder coated black, so yeah you will hardly even notice they are there.

Looks Good. :bounce

I'm excited about getting my SubaManx on the road. Can't wait!

yep it is all looking very sweet. Shoudl have throttle body invertor sorted by next week and then the Subi really is a Bolt in Conversion. No cutting, no hacking and everything is bolt in ... hard to look past 140 HP for under $5000 and good for 500 000 km, easy service, easy parts , quite, reliable......................

looks good I will be bringing my 2 sumps up for ya soon

hehe... well make sure you know if they are on or offroad. I reckon the offroad ones would be much better out of 2.1 Checker for that tough ass offroad look 🙂

BTW, I love the shape of them, it'd suit me down to the ground, he he he.

Wish you had been making them 3 years ago.🙁

Buggy Brad wrote:hehe... well make sure you know if they are on or offroad. I reckon the offroad ones would be much better out of 2.1 Checker for that tough ass offroad look 🙂

Bugger the on road version i want them so i can use them as a bash pan as well.:thumb

Even onroad the checkerplate look would be tough as.

How's the bolt on engine crossmember going?

soundin good brad know where did i plant that lastm money tree???
cheers
rhys

I'd love to make up something like this sump for my SVX engine....You sould the size of this one!!!!
My bus looks like it has one massive black testicle!

Not a good look!

Hi Brad

Do you have a price for a sump, onroad version?

Steve

[Edited on 20-9-2004 by 1302Steve]

Gidday Brad,
any chance of an update on all of what you have avaliable, and how much it all costs.
Please!

Thanks,
Andy.

I think you will find brad is pretty busy with the new business and all 🙂 you may get faster answerers if you call Custom Off Road 3356 4356 (i think) Terry or Brad will know :blah

Sumps are $440 exchange. Sold as a kit includes everything you need to bolt onto the EJ series engines.

Do you have pics / pricing on the engine crossmembers yet?

Bump for Matt