Leo · Aussieveedubbers

splitbusaustralia · 1 Sep 2003, 8:52 am

Going very hard on Leo to get him done
so I can drive him. He'll be my test sled for a few engineering ideas I have.....got very close to buying an old joinery in West G (for a splitbus resto business) last week - it sold on the Saturday and I went in to buy it on the following Monday .......

Anyway...

Lifted the tray off Leo and repaired the tray support. Rear corners and front edges (behind the cab) were toasty.

Replacing the passenger's side, top hat sections, inner and outer sills and pillar bottoms. Had to go fairly high to find good clean metal.

Shot from rear. That's Dusty dawg resto manager on the left...

Shot from inside showing inner rockers, new rear wheel well closing panel and pillar bottoms. Hadn't done the 'front pillar left, but it gives you an idea of how crusty the old boy was....

Outer sills going on. Not too bad for metal finished.....

Later all and keep the faith!

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

vw54 · 1 Sep 2003, 9:23 am

Rob

Looks great any news on the back seat, Its great to see new metal being installed.

Now dont forget to put the glass in the right way around.

decked dubby · 1 Sep 2003, 11:49 am

Look's like nice work. :thumb:thumb

57kombi · 1 Sep 2003, 3:15 pm

So you eventually got it.

What may we ask are you going to test on the twin cab????

Looks like I will have to start saving up?

Job looks good.
I am trying to get mine ready for Christmas, havent done any work on it since the last time we spoke,
Front lookks a treat with your spindles on.

Cheers
Dave

kombi_kid · 1 Sep 2003, 4:25 pm

hey rob
man u do some nice work!!! i admire ur work!!!
we got a dual cab too!! needs about as much work to!!!
did u fold it up by urself?
cheers
rhys

BenettonVW · 1 Sep 2003, 7:58 pm

Very nice Rob.. Very nice.

You let me know if you do start that business.. I may be one of your first customers!

kombi_kid · 2 Sep 2003, 5:34 pm

me too me too!!!!!!
cheers
rhys

Robo · 2 Sep 2003, 5:54 pm

HI Rob
You guys really need to be congratulated, the amount of metal work that has to be done to bring these buses back is really amazing. it's great to see people prepared to bring them back to their former glory! bloody top stuff!
Rob......

splitbusaustralia · 3 Sep 2003, 9:42 am

Dave - less glass on this one so chances of a stuff up should be proportionally less?
Lets see now 23 windows vs 7 - about 32.85 percent chance of a stuff up!.......hopefully I wont be swanning round the garage in a zombie like state at 3am in the morning trying to get the thing finished and road registered for next years Nats! Even if it happens that way, it'll be a working truck in the car park rather than a show bus inside.....

Dave, my first thoughts are about getting
discs onto a splitbus beam so you can have discs without going the bay front beam and adjuster route (who says I'm absolutely anally fixated on this topic?)

Jim, the business is something I'm looking at. I think we would still starve at the moment - but as prices and demand keep going up more people will look at buying a 1-3 grand splitbus needing 3-5 grand worth of metalwork - partic. as fewer and fewer genuinely 'rust-free' busses become available around the 8 gorilla mark (actually very very few splitbusses ARE 'rust-free' - trust me on that one). Be very hard to make a living out of a specialist splitbus resto business I think - most rest shops carry other types of business (parts/servicing) as well. The place I was looking at had an ongoing two year lease with tenant. At the moment I'm looking more to find premises, lease out for the moment (or maybe offer dry vehicle storage for cheap) and then review again when my kids are just about through high school etc and we actually need less money to live...could sacrifice income for something I really want to do then...

Rhys - I buy the outriggers, inner and outer sills and centre chassis sections from Guy Harding (a lot of these parts are based on my original patterns). The prices are good when you look at what time it takes to hand make them. I still make part not commonly available - pillar bottoms, wheel well closing panels and pressed sections I can't buy like barndoor front floor sections and cargo floor sections (although the pressed stuff is very time consuming by hand...).

Leo will be done in red oxide (or epoxy primered in a similar colour if I can't find a way to improve the water resistance of the oxide) lowered, highway geared, BRM'ed, tilted and bowed and have enough torque to pull tree stumps............

[Edited on 3-9-2003 by splitbusaustralia]

57kombi · 3 Sep 2003, 10:56 am

Hi Rob.
As you know I agree with your comments on King and Link pin beams so a disc set up with out widening the track would be the way to go.
as long as I can keep the dropped spindles?

As for setting up a business, I think this would be tricky ,, aussies still have the "I can buy a splitty for $500 and then spend $1000 on it to get a show van?" mentality, just be careful, we know how much it costs but as it seams that splits are the flavour of the month at the moment, just be careful.
Any way good luck if you go that way.
Cheers
Dave

Andy · 3 Sep 2003, 11:36 am

Great work there. Looks very nice so far :-)
If you set up a business maybe you can do bay's as well :-)

kombi_kid · 3 Sep 2003, 1:31 pm

my bros interested in metal work and the likes maybe u could teach him the tricks of the trade😉 (he can use my splitty as his first test)
u making up a new cab deck?? there got smaller ripples in them!!!
cheers
rhys

splitbusaustralia · 17 Sep 2003, 2:16 pm

Greetings all,

When we last left Leo he looked something like this.......

Had a day at home today (thanks to State teachers bless them had to Mr Mum it) - repaired the bottom of the front post, the front wheel well, got the outer rocker on and replaced the outer LHS floor...

Had to fab and replace a lot of metal in the front pillar/front LHS wheel well. Have suspicions that previous owner used Leo to trawl for Cod in the Barents Sea.......or perhaps he was built from plate stripped off the U-259? The new dogleg will cover most of this......

View from underneath

And shot from passengers compartment

Actually it looks like twin cabs get really crusty because there is one helluva lot of braze used in their assembly. Probably something to do with being a semi special build and not having spot welders set up to access everything. When braze and steel meet and are exposed to water and air the steel is sacrificial! Lots of braze left and no metal!

Leo's rear subfloor will come out next and I'll replce the front and rear centre chassis sections and heater pipe. Replace the floor and then work up the other side. Hope the RHS is better than the left but I doubt it - got some previously repaired accident damage (80% job) to attend to on that side to.

I still reckon I'll have all the metal done and him in primer withing a year of starting...

later

RobK

[Edited on 22-7-2004 by splitbusaustralia]

byronbus · 17 Sep 2003, 2:22 pm

:thumb nice work, looking good

72TWINCAB · 17 Sep 2003, 3:54 pm

Your a god splitbus australia:jesus

Love your work:thumb

ByronBug · 17 Sep 2003, 4:00 pm

:sandrine
Go Leo....
Good to see he was bought by a loverly
guy who loved him enough to fix him up
& give him a good home...
Judy

pyr0 · 17 Sep 2003, 4:06 pm

looken good. great to see the progress pictures. lokking very shmick :thumb

byronbus · 17 Sep 2003, 4:08 pm

Keep the pics coming of his progress

baybuscamperkid · 17 Sep 2003, 4:26 pm

i drop to my knees and bow before your majic! great work, cant wait to see it complete!

splitbusaustralia · 18 Sep 2003, 9:05 am

Pulled the rear subfloor out last night. Thought I'd post a couple of 'before' pix (to compare with 'after' when done). Looks worse than it actually is - chassis rails are fine and rear top hat section is actually OK.

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

ByronBug · 18 Sep 2003, 10:01 am

:sandrine
Leo looks like he had a very hard life before you bought & saved him from the
vicious evil madman called "RUST'.
Thank god you saved him....he will be soon back to his ol self....all shiney new
Go Leo...
Your hard work is being noticed....you are truely a legend...
Judy

sikdub · 18 Sep 2003, 10:11 am

Quality is seriously the name of yor game. :thumb Just out of interests sake, what do you do for a living? I need to learn how to weld....
Steven

Cam · 18 Sep 2003, 12:39 pm

You're an absolute legend, dude! My hat is off to you.
-Cam

kombi_kid · 18 Sep 2003, 9:45 pm

ive said it before and will say it again and again and again i love your work!!!!
did u ever sell the 23 window??
cheers
rhys

SKEWtYpe3 · 18 Sep 2003, 11:34 pm

top work !
looks 100% perfect !
:bounce

vw_mistress · 19 Sep 2003, 1:13 am

full-on Rob,
you are one-helluva guy :thumb

yeah - do keep those resto pics coming.
was it more work than you though it would be??

splitbusaustralia · 21 Sep 2003, 7:26 pm

In our last episode we had removed leo the split twin cab's sub floor and revealed this.......

A bit of cutting, fitting and welding and leo's looking better. This is the part of working on splitbusses that I almost dislike - I hate crawling around under them and I do get get quite disoriented and don't sleep well if I spend a lot of time underneath one (figure that one out?). Because of this I like to access all I can from the top.....but I'm going to have to do the front center chassis section soon which is going to be another not-fond-of job (have to do it all from underneath).

I wonder what the midnight movie is tonight?

later all!

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

byronbus · 21 Sep 2003, 7:28 pm

Nice work, gotta love the weekend bonding...is that stainless you're using?

BenettonVW · 21 Sep 2003, 7:56 pm

Rob, like always your work is incredible.
I'm not here to blow smoke up your bum, but it dumbfounds me to the extent of the quality.

I found something recently that someone like you might find useful, and was considering getting made myself.. Just a friendly offering, thats all. What do you think?

BenettonVW · 21 Sep 2003, 7:57 pm

Might save crawling under them so much, thats all Rob..

BenettonVW · 21 Sep 2003, 8:06 pm

Cradle type thingo..

BenettonVW · 21 Sep 2003, 8:11 pm

Nice jig

BenettonVW · 21 Sep 2003, 8:14 pm

Last one.

pyr0 · 21 Sep 2003, 10:41 pm

that cradel sure is nifty are they made in the U.S ???

SKEWtYpe3 · 21 Sep 2003, 11:03 pm

me and u jim been looking at the same sites !

Kustom coach works cradel Pyro, but u cant buy them, u just make one
pretty simple realy !
:bounce

splitbusaustralia · 22 Sep 2003, 8:49 am

ByronB - the sections are made from zinc annelaed steel (stops em rusting and you can weld through it). Does look a bit like stainless in my garage light...

Cradle is a great idea - however, my problem is space. I'm lucky in that I have a workshop that will hold three busses end to end and give me space to work round them (this is in an old inner city area in Geelong - generally small houses small blocks).

You do need space to be able to roll these things about and tilt em over. There's also the problem about where to store when not in use. If I spent more than my 'spare' hobby time on it I would have the space and a cradle or a rotisserie.

You can do a bus without having to spend too much underneath it - its just that I really don't like that time much.

later RobK

nicko · 22 Sep 2003, 6:44 pm

What is the link to the website that has the frame for rolling a kombi on its side?

BenettonVW · 22 Sep 2003, 6:48 pm

http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/

Those guys do some awesome work..

vassy66T1 · 22 Sep 2003, 7:06 pm

Great work Rob.
I think I would have considered crying and walking away.
More power to ya

sikdub · 22 Sep 2003, 8:42 pm

Love your work Rob. Hats off to you. Anything happening with the barndoor? 😎
Steven

type_one · 23 Sep 2003, 12:56 pm

Rob you are definitely one talented man. I have seen cars scrapped in better condition than that. But you just keep going. Nothing is too big. Or so it seems. You must have one understanding Mrs too. I just have to work out a way of getting your knowledge and skills into my head. I may need a DNA sample. Is that okay? Guess this is one bus that will never be for sale.

split-uterus · 24 Sep 2003, 1:26 am

Nice to see that after the multiple encounters with strange units and all the bullshit associated, Leo went to the surgeon with the apropriate knife.

Nice work.

As I said earlier Rob, I´ll need to see you drive Leo across water and peform other miracles before I call you God. Maybe you can send me a picture of you wearing sandals, a robe and running a decent beard whilst working in your garage. At least then I can call you Jesus.

:jesus

A question for you Rob... Did the sticker survive?

Over and Out.
Latino Bandito on Two Wheels.

kombi_mad · 25 Sep 2003, 6:17 pm

Hey Split uterus, so whats monte-video, would they have it at videobusters?

and mate, you really didnt need to put your sexual prefrences in your profile either......please!!!!!

kombi_mad · 25 Sep 2003, 6:18 pm

Hey Split uterus, so whats monte-video, would they have it at videobusters?

and mate, you really didnt need to put your sexual prefrences in your profile either......please!!!!!

whatnow · 30 Sep 2003, 1:02 am

wow rob. beautiful work... and in an afternoon. OMG! are you welding with one hand while trimming another piece to fit with the other?

whatnow · 30 Sep 2003, 1:04 am

BTW how much does a naked bus weigh?

splitbusaustralia · 3 Oct 2003, 5:30 pm

Well,

Pulled some hours in the day job so I got today off - nice to know that your taxes are being well spent! Spent some more time on leo the 62 Split twin cab.

Pulling the subfloor out of Leo revealed this (really like this before and after stuff - shoulda done it years ago!). Suspect Jim Gow's panel really looks like this!

Just about finished the underfloor stuff. The plate is a bit agricultural but you'll never see it and I was reluctant to spend a month making dies and pressing a repro. The old metal had to come out though - the seam in this section was swelling with rust...

View from the other side - new pillar bottoms, sills, outriggers, wheelwell closing panel etc etc..

Metal finished the outer rocker. Good idea to do this while the subfloor is still out and access is better. Bloody thing shrank and pulled in a bit over the pillar (can't access it to straighten) - going to need filler on that spot.

Probably do the front centre chassis section tomorrow (unless I wimp out on it for a week) and then replace the heater tube. Half the floor can go back in and then I'll do the pillars and sills on the other side.......

later all

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

Boozer · 3 Oct 2003, 5:37 pm

OMG that's a lot of rust!:o:o:o I thought i had rust, geez, good work on cutting it out and replacing it. looks a lot better.

KruizinKombi · 3 Oct 2003, 7:09 pm

There is no doubt about it Rob, you are the man!! I love ya work. :thumb😉

splitbusaustralia · 5 Nov 2003, 10:18 am

Going OK with Leo - won't be that long and all the metal repair should be done!

Got the front centre chassis section in (an under-the-bus job I don't like much). Pic shows new centre chassis section, heater tube, outriggers and outer top hat sections (under floor).

Shot toward the rear showing new rear centre chassis section, heater tube, outriggers, top hat sections and a bit of the new sub-floor sections..

Pic of the LHS which is all done with pillars, sills, floor etc. Looking forward to picking up 'the most welded vehicle all types and years' at the Nationals year after next!

Right hand side inner and outer sills going on and new pillar bottom. Leo had been hit in this side and not that well repaired. Had to straighten the bottom 12 inches of the pillar and then replace the bottom due to rust. With the average accident repair and the rust this whole side was sorta 'hanging free' and swinging in the breeze...

Right hand side sills from the outside, also shows new pillar bottom...

I know he still looks bad but not that far to go now! All the under floor stuff is basically done thank goodness....

Still have to do the doglegs, the front valance, replace the rear corners, battery tray and deck and fit seat belt mounts and that's about it! He'll be ready for rust bullet and body after chrissy hols!

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

72TWINCAB · 5 Nov 2003, 10:51 am

I love seeing your updates Rob. Your work is second to none. Can't wait to see Leo finished. The twincab splitscreen Kombi is the car a lust over most.

Keep up the great work and as always keep us updated:thumb

MickH · 5 Nov 2003, 11:16 am

Well what else could anyone possibly say....Thats commitment!!!!Looks VERY GOOD and proffesional!! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to more update shots!!!:bounce:bounce

vw54 · 5 Nov 2003, 12:17 pm

Looks great Rob

whats the chequer plate for ???

splitbusaustralia · 5 Nov 2003, 1:13 pm

The chequer plate is there to replace the holey rusty mess shown at the rear in the photo below dave!

Seriously, I need a split to drive and I want to get the twinny on the road as a running working truck as quickly as I can - it won't be a 'restored' bus in that sense - perhaps 'saved' is a better word?

Utes have a 'special' or different pressing here (compared to 'normal' splitbusses)and I was reluctant to spend lots of time and money developing dies etc to repro a piece...

The plate is a bit agricutural but it will be behind the fuel tank and the partition and you'd never really know it was there (unless someone was silly enough to post photos of it of course...).

I'll probably plate the tray for the same reasons. I could use a whole bunch of my cargo floor repair sections on it but the cargo floor profile isn't right for a ute tray and SOME OLD BASTARD would INVARIABLY pick it anyway 😉

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

vw54 · 5 Nov 2003, 2:47 pm

Wise moove dont post pics of it. Yeah yr right no one will see it and u need a driver strong n tuff.

57kombi · 7 Nov 2003, 1:03 pm

If anyone picks you up on it. Just ask to see there's
Good work Rob.
Cheers
Dave

sikdub · 10 Nov 2003, 4:55 pm

Never cease to amaze me Rob. That new metal nderneath looks great. But then again so doesthe other stuff you've done. :thumb:thumb
Steven

splitbusaustralia · 10 Nov 2003, 5:52 pm

Well,

Got to work Cup Day so I took today off and kidz were at school, Chrissy at work so.....plenty of time to do the housework..

A shot of the previously 'repaired' accident damage on leo's right hand side - the b pillar isn't connected to anything (!), note uncorrected damage at bottom of pillar and guess ay the amount of bog on the outside given the state of the inside braces (still coughing from grinding it out coff coff...)

coff coff - fixed that up and also got the inner and outer rockers finished.....

coff coff - shot of the new outer top hat section, outrigger, pillar bottom and closed the bottom of the bulkhead

coff coff - shot from the front RHS wheel well...not as bad as the other side and I had an easy time here....once again the new dogleg will cover most of this...

leo lives! Unfortunately I may not coff coff

RobK

coff coff

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

modulus · 10 Nov 2003, 5:57 pm

Never sick of it - bring it on. I love seeing Leo brought back to life the right way.

Grey 57 · 10 Nov 2003, 5:59 pm

Luv ya work Rob. Always so thorough. :thumb
Keep it up.

Any chance of bringing the oval over for a few little repairs 😀 Only joking

dubcab · 10 Nov 2003, 8:36 pm

More pics the better! There's a 57 bus in my shed that has twice as much repairs needed. Heaps of time,1o square metres of fresh metal and big mig should see it finished in a couple of years!

Menangler · 15 Nov 2003, 8:43 pm

Rob,
Looks great, don't you just love the smell of rust dust and burning flesh in your nose from grinding and upside down welding!!

KruizinKombi · 17 Nov 2003, 5:25 pm

Bloody hell Rob, is there any part of a kombi you can't make?? :o:thumb

splitbusaustralia · 24 Nov 2003, 5:49 pm

Well,

Did a bit on Leo on Saturday while coming down with a flu thing that the rest of the family has had (and I hoped I had missed....). Been feeling pretty crappy Sun and Mon and have been taking it easy...

Got the rest of the subfloor back in Leo before retiring though. Just needs to be tidied up a bit (maybe next weekend)..

and in the passengers compartment

View from the rear ('through' where the tray will go back on)

Put in a drain for fuel overfills and/or expansion overflows. Utes (unilke other splitbusses) don't have these and any overflows just pool on the subfloor near the fuel tank - I wonder why that bit of subfloor on these things is generally so rusty? Yes the fuel lifts the paint and then rot sets in. I think this mod is well worthwhile if you are in there.....

Going back to bed now.

later all.

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

koolkarmakombi · 24 Nov 2003, 8:06 pm

SUH-WEET

kkk

vw54 · 25 Nov 2003, 5:27 am

Looking great Rob

72TWINCAB · 25 Nov 2003, 9:18 am

keep up the great work Rob:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb

PS: Keep the updates coming. It is looking sweeeeet😀

ByronBug · 25 Nov 2003, 10:26 am

:sandrine Hi Robb
Great to see Leo coming along with so much love.
I think deep down he is very grateful to you for choosing him to put all your much loved effort & time into.
Am looking forward to finally seeing him
painted & restored & standing proud amoungst all his fellow relatives at a VW show soon.
Can't wait to see him then....
Judy 🙂

splitbusaustralia · 22 Dec 2003, 8:31 am

Well,

Santa rides tonight, there will be no time for Leo for a few days so I gave him his christmas present today and did a little work on his rear corner.

Replaced the post bottom - surprisingly complex bit to make!

and fitted hid rear corner. have to finish welding this in and clean up but its looking pretty good! I'll be painting his engine bay and treasure chest area with rust bullet soon - can't wait!

Wonder what santa might bring me?

later all and best for the season.

RobK

Merry Christmas all.....

Been side tracked on something else I've wanted to do for a while so not that much time spent on Leo lately. Although this other project is for him really.

I've always wanted to try and get later bus discs onto an early splitbus king and link pin front end. I'd rather have discs on a dropped spindle king and link pin front end than put in a 68/69 ball joint front end to get em (and have to drop it 6 inches on adjusters...)

Well, a bit of machining of the later hubs, different bearing and seals and I'm fairly sure this is going to work. Just have to make some caliper mounting brackets (which shouldn't be insurmountable) for the later calipers and I think Leo will be getting down and discoing!

Anyway, in terms of metalwork I did clean up the new subfloor, fabricate petrol tank pads and get the frame for the partition back in ..

Repaired the bottom of the upright panel behind the cab. Seems to be fairly crusty on all crew cabs - the tray will sit on top of this..

And started on the rear corners and battery tray. The corners weren't too bad but the bottom of the pillar was gone on both sides and you actually have to cut the corners and tray out to fix this properly. This little thing is quite a trickey repair (the pillar is a 'complex' shape) and shows what you may have to do to fix something properly......(been reading other posts and there seems to be some view that metalwork/rust repair is not a difficult skill to acquire - how many hours do you guys think I have in Leo to this point? 8-).
Go back through my photos and do a time estimate on each job? Not trying to be bitchy but get you to think about the time a 'good' job can take??????)

Have a good one all.

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

vw54 · 22 Dec 2003, 9:05 am

looks great

fetid_swamp · 22 Dec 2003, 9:48 am

Go back through my photos and do a time estimate on each job

i know i havent got the patience or skill needed.

crusty splitties are definatly a labour of love for a skilled craftsman.

leo is lucky

nicko · 22 Dec 2003, 1:36 pm

Rob is there any option at the moment to adapt discs to dropped spindles? I would like to keep the wide 5 pattern if possible.
I understand your point about the time it takes to repair a split bus properly and have read a lot of the posts saying how expensive it is. I think there is always options for people to save some money by carrying out the things that can do such as disassembly etc I would be interested in knowing the time you feel it would take to replace a passenger sill on a splitbus(microbus) including inner sills and outriggers and assuming the I beams are Ok. I estimate about 8-10 hours to remove all these items 2 hours to square the opening up and about 8 hours to weld it back in. I have not done it before and will be paying for. This would give me a guidline on what to expect during the resto of my bus.
Cheers Nicko

sgetty · 22 Dec 2003, 9:18 pm

glad u put these up here, its really motivating me.:thumb

mmmm so fresh and so clean🙂

splitbusaustralia · 23 Dec 2003, 8:21 am

Well,

Let's say I was working on my own bus.

Much less time to cut it all out. Prob 3-4 hours total. I'd also remove the outer 6 inches of the cargo floor (I'd want access and it's normally thin/crusty at the outer edge and pulling the inner rocker will finish it off).

OK, if its rusty enough that the outriggers and inner/outer rockers need doing I'd expect:

1. The pillar bottoms are cactus. Make by hand (no repros available).
2. The closing panels in each wheel well are cactus (the inner rocker connects to them). Make by hand.

3. Some of the outer top hat section will be gone (part. the bit enclosed by the rear jack point).

4. Replace pillar bottoms, outer top hat sections (as required), outriggers, inner and outer sills, cargo floor and jack points.

5. Make cargo door latch and cover plate (sills don't come with em or they're useless and you have to cut them off and do em again)

6. Fit cargo doors - may have to bend hinges etc. A bus cargo door should close/engage with a 'snick' when you push it closed......

For me, probably two fullish days to weld and fit which would include fabrication as required. Around 20 hrs or a bit less for the whole job. The trick I guess is make sure exactly what you are being billed for. Putting new rockers around seedy pillar bottoms and connecting to thin closing panels is just a waste of time. Do it properly once and cry once as Gene Berg used to say.

You can buy wide 5 discs from CSP to a splitbus king and link pin front end. I've looked at them longingly but they'd be $2kish landed and then there's the question of getting parts like discs and pads etc. You'd always be waiting and paying freight and duty on replacement stuff (unless someone local I'm not aware of distributes for them)

see

http://www.csp-shop.de

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

57kombi · 23 Dec 2003, 10:36 am

Seams like I should have waited and seen if you were going to sell the disc set ups.

Cheers
Dave

splitbusaustralia · 23 Dec 2003, 10:59 am

They will go on the dropped spindles you already have (but you will get a stud pattern diff between front and back I guess - going to be hard to get the 5 x 112 on the back without IRS'ing).

Will I sell them? Probably not. Be like everything else really - know how to do it but won't have the time...with limited hobby time like to do my own stuff..

I am trying to negotiate a 4 day working week here at work (its a given in 'workplace agreement' but not having much luck) so I could have a go at doing VW stuff for income without running the risk of the family starving to death......

RobK

nicko · 23 Dec 2003, 11:52 am

Thanks Rob for the advice. It is much appreciated
Nicko

nbturbo · 23 Dec 2003, 3:02 pm

Is there a dropped spindle available for the later ball joint Kombi? If so,I remember reading on a Forum somewhere(a Yankee one from memory) that the ball joint upper and lower arms can be machined to fit a King pin beam.I have no idea if this is possible,but I am trying to get all this info for a future project.I bought a 73 Kombi to get all the suspension for my 67 Van.

nbturbo · 23 Dec 2003, 3:03 pm

Sorry-Leo not Loe

sikdub · 23 Dec 2003, 8:45 pm

Lookin' good Rob! Ever considered trying to build a split from scratch?
Steven

splitbusaustralia · 24 Dec 2003, 3:10 pm

baybuscamperkid · 24 Dec 2003, 3:22 pm

hmm. are you any good with CAD programs? you should do up the custom parts for the disks (and some of your other projects) on CAD, that way at least you can give/sell the designs to interested parties, i understand he time constraints, but it is a shame to see so many good ideas available to only one VW.

splitbusaustralia · 16 Jan 2004, 7:15 pm

Tired and dirty or what? Spent all my free time over the last three days working on Leo the 62 split twin cab (family had two leo-free weeks at Philip Island before that so I hopped into him before going back to work).

I think last time I posted a progress report I was replacing the right rear corner and post. Finished that and replaced the battery tray - used a Brazilian repop tray (pressing is different to a bus and quite difficult to repro) and while it had the right pressing it wasn't close to fitting anything - spent a least half a day on getting it to fit and rate that part at about 5 out of 10.

Repaired the left rear corner and the post and tray and repaired and fitted new crossmembers under the tray. Fitted a 15 gal fuel tank from a fat chick (this is quite an easy mod for splitties and the extra capacity is a plus particularly if you are planning a phat engine 8-).

Painted everything inside with Rust Bullet
today (although nothing is rusty now I guess I'm just anal....).

So, I think last August I had just lifted the tray off Leo and the subfloor was looking like this....

and the end of today he was looking like this...

Be close to breaking the back of this now I think!

later all

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

matara · 16 Jan 2004, 7:23 pm

Rob, its gotta be said you really have worked some of your legendary MAGIC on ol Leo. He looks like a new bus now!

vw54 · 16 Jan 2004, 7:29 pm

Go polish your Badge Rob MATE thats bloody great work looks shit hot

When do you want the cheque for Leo !!!

Dasdubber · 16 Jan 2004, 7:36 pm

Looking fantastic....that is some very tidy work indeed. A job well done! :thumb

Alan

Bizarre · 16 Jan 2004, 7:53 pm

What can be said???

Dont put a tray on there just so we can see the beauty!!

Just by the way - what colout are you going to paint this???

"if you are planning a phat engine 8-)."

Does this mean a 2.4L Type 4 turbo is going in???

Well done

BenettonVW · 16 Jan 2004, 9:06 pm

I'm with Barry.. What can be said.. It is absolutely incredible, and all the power to you Rob. Well done mate. :thumb

ByronBug · 16 Jan 2004, 10:13 pm

Hi again Rob,
Boy Leo is looking so good you should be very proud of yourself.
I don't know how everyone else thinks but I am starting to feel like I know Leo well. So we all can't imagine how you feel about him.
Love to see him when hes cruising on the road....
Judy 🙂

splitbusaustralia · 18 Jan 2004, 6:41 am

Yes,

I can't wait to drive him either! First bus that I haven't actually driven in some way before major work!

As I've said before Leo won't be a concourse resto. He'll be as well engineered as I can do but he'll be done as a driver, tuff and true. Don't want to be worried about him getting scratches and road chips!

Leo will like it as an old skool truck 8-)...

Think I gotta start wearing work gloves - don't like em but my hand are looking like something from a horror movie (and the head's bad enough) - always a good look for work!

RobK

jnr356 · 18 Jan 2004, 11:06 am

not only are you a nice bloke,you are a magician top job rob.

vanderaj · 18 Jan 2004, 11:47 am

That is an amazing transformation! 🙂

Unbeliveable the difference a welder with skill can make!

Andrew

Unity-28 · 19 Jan 2004, 1:23 pm

From the famous words of Richie Benaud, "well,well, only one word for that....BRILLIANT"

Top Job Rob. (hey that could be your new nick name!)

N!

XXX-1.8T · 19 Jan 2004, 1:31 pm

:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb

kombi_kid · 21 Jan 2004, 7:26 am

so when u gonna hire me as your apprentice???? can start any time aslong as i get to learn your skills will work for a feed everyday no other money needed!!!
seriously though dude i love your work seeing it through your 23 window and the progress of your barney and leo its really fantastic!!
cheers
rhys

HotRodMatt · 21 Jan 2004, 7:32 am

Holy sheeeet!

That thing needs a plexiglass tray!

Unbelievable work!

sikdub · 21 Jan 2004, 3:09 pm

Rob, unbelieveable job. Looks special. :thumb:thumb
Steven

dubcab · 21 Jan 2004, 8:31 pm

DUDE! Top stuff.....more photos the better. It helps inspire us who are just starting our projects to do them as good as possible. Will start posting photos of lauren belle (57 van)resto soon. It has the floor cut out and nearly all sheetmetal folded ready for welding ....100hours plus😎 check out the photos

splitbusaustralia · 23 Jan 2004, 5:35 pm

Well,

Not much on TV at night at the moment and commuting to Melbourne hasn't worn me out at this point after having a good break.....so Leo let's play!

Installed some some sound/vibration deadener - you can't see the slightly agricultural chequer plate repair now (perhaps I should stop mentioning it?).
Also installed the bay window tank. Easy mod for a splitbus and you get an extra four gallons. Just cut the filler neck off an old split bus tank and attach to the bay tank. You also have to lengthen the hold down straps...

Fitted a tray (tres bien - get it?) and just about have the rear stripped to bare metal. I'll etch prime this and rough in the bodywork at the back - bit sick of fabricating and welding and feel like bit of a change....

My dad, the great stainless fab guru TedK would call the edge of the tray 'nicely hand formed and finished'. Took me while to do it....

I'll finish bare metalling and prime this weekend. Progress will slow a bit now...

Would like to thank Brad for some late bus brake bits. Will have pics of late discs on an early king and link pin front end (dropped spindle) soon...

later all

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

Anthiron · 23 Jan 2004, 5:42 pm

that looks awesome... i love the tray

vw54 · 23 Jan 2004, 7:41 pm

Rob

when can i send you the cheque !!!!!!

Keep up the EXCELLENT work.

sgetty · 24 Jan 2004, 9:21 pm

hey rob
howd ya do the edge on the tray was thinking about how i was going to do mine the other day. is it rolled?
deon

splitbusaustralia · 29 Jan 2004, 8:04 am

Anyone else noticed how he doesn't seem to use harmonics as much these days?

Anyway - Mmmm - bit hard to roll 2.1 mm chequerplate … at least I don’t have anything that would do it…

Three things to join at the edge of the tray. The tray top, the edge of the frame underneath that supports the tray top and the edge of the side panel of the vehicle. Originally the outer edge of the tray top (1mm) was rolled down over the other two edges and the now four layers of metal (edge of tray top, frame edge, side panel edge and edge of tray top where its been rolled underneath) spot welded.

Things change when you go to a 2.1 mm chequerplate tray top. As I said you can’t roll it over the other two. The way I handled it was to first weld all these outer edges together.
Give the MIG a fair bit of heat and initially work or direct it to the edge of the chequerplate (it’ll jut blow big holes in the other edges if initially directed there). Work the metal so that all the edges fuse with good penetration and try and keep the finished weld neat. Tack 20mm sections all the way round and then fill in 20mm sections at a time (in separate locations).

Set up a straight edge (like a chunk of right angle steel) along the edge of the tray and grind/neaten weld back to the straight edge. Shape edge with grinder of your weldings not the neatest. Finish shaping/polishing edge with a 60 grit sanding disc. Shaping is just done by hand and eye.

?????????????

RobK

Brad · 29 Jan 2004, 8:33 am

I have said it before and I will say it again, in all my years of playing this game, this is without a doubt the best repair I have ever seen.

I think you are crazy not to open a business and repair Split Komb's for people. That is if you love it enough.

I hate paying money but I wouldn't think twice about getting you to repair a split bus if I had one.

Keep up the good work :thumb:thumb:thumb

splitbusaustralia · 29 Jan 2004, 3:18 pm

mmmm – actually trying to get to this point. Unfortunately I’m not in a position to stop my day job (and its associated cash flow), lease premises and wait for the work (and cashflow) to build to a livable level . Still think I’d struggle to make a full-time living out of it – busses are too specific and I think the work would be sporadic.

However, I am currently trying to negotiate my day job to 4 days a week. This would give me one day a week to do busstuff and test the market……

RobK

57kombi · 29 Jan 2004, 4:42 pm

One day a week isnt enough,,,,,, it would take up most of that travelling to Adelaide.

Cheers
Dave

splitbusaustralia · 14 Feb 2004, 9:10 pm

Well,

even though I've still got leo's doglegs and front valance to do last update I decided to take bit of a break from welding and fabricating and rough in the bodywork on leo's back half as bit of a change of pace.

Firstly I carefully explained to Chrissy that I was going to paint leo with a flattish finish and thus had no intention of spending hours and hours sanding.

dollied a bit, filled and bit and sanded; dollied a bit, filled and bit and sanded;
dollied a bit, filled and bit and sanded;
dollied a bit, filled and bit and sanded;
etc etc
filled a bit and sanded;
filled a bit and sanded;
filled a bit and sanded;
filled a bit and sanded;
filled a bit and sanded;
filled a bit and sanded;
sanded;
sanded;
sanded;
etc etc
hi filled primed and sanded;
sanded;
sanded;
sanded;
hi filled primed and sanded;
sanded;
sanded;
sanded;
hi-fill primed.

After watching this go on just on the back bit for 5 full afternoons my wife cheerfully announced that I was crazy if I didn't put shiny paint on him......and I think she may be right! (as often is the case...)

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

MickH · 14 Feb 2004, 9:53 pm

Your attention to detail is making me feel useless.....can you put a few dents in it to show us your human????:bounce:bounce

Kai.A. · 14 Feb 2004, 10:23 pm

Mick H wrote:Your attention to detail is making me feel useless.....can you put a few dents in it to show us your human????:bounce:bounce

ROFLMAO!!!!!!

you are so right....

kai

ByronBug · 14 Feb 2004, 10:34 pm

:sandrine
Nice to see leo's still looking good
Judy

vw54 · 15 Feb 2004, 9:02 am

Nice Curves Rob

twoguns · 15 Feb 2004, 3:35 pm

just please some one remind me that once i have mine finished, that i NEVER park it beside 'leo'.

good effort.:thumb

baybuscamperkid · 15 Feb 2004, 6:39 pm

agree totally with what 2guns said!

57kombi · 15 Feb 2004, 9:12 pm

as above.

good work rob

Desert Bug · 16 Feb 2004, 11:53 pm

Hi Rob,
Looking great!! Wish I had the time and patience to do bodywork like that.
Ian.

sikdub · 20 Feb 2004, 4:41 pm

Lookin sweeeeet Rob. Keep up the good work, we love it. 😀
Steven

helbus · 20 Feb 2004, 8:44 pm

"Iiiiiiiiiiiiiii

Like big butts and I cannot lie" 😀

[Edited on 20-2-2004 by Helbus]

splitbusaustralia · 7 Mar 2004, 6:58 pm

Well,

When we last laft our hero Leo (the crusty 62 twin cab) he was off the ventilator and I was roughing in his butt end for a bit of a change from fitting and welding....

Stripped the roof. Would a been Ok for a rat look but I'm glad I stripped it now. Little strippin now saved a LOT of work later - rust just starting to take hold through the paint but 60 grit found clean metal. Spent so much time on rusty busses decided that I hate the rat look!

Roof had a few dings from a rack used a some stage (probably a tradey's rack). Dollied those out and filled, sanded, sanded and hi-fill primed...

*sigh* back to welding and rust work. Decided to fit passenger's side dogleg. Bottom of a pillar needed repair first (it was rusty which was a total surprise....)

Patched the pillar (bit ugly but its 'keyhole work and you wont see it when the outer piece goes on...)

View from the front - ergo the joke about the keyhole surgery...

And finished....

Went on to test fit the passenger's compartment door. Hmmmm..something not quite right...hmmmm...can't get even door gaps (I hate uneven gaps - easiest way to pick crappy work...)..hmmm..did some measuring...hmmmm wtf? Looks like Leo has been hit in this side at some stage too! Its a better repair than the other side and an early one - lotsa lead here. Hate removing lead - spits like a bastard and keeps resticking when the slightest bit cool. This pic shows the lead 'running away' after heating..

Had to cutnshut the pillar to get the door gaps even! Then had to cutnshut on the other side so that the dogleg had the right gaps......

Had to do the 'normal' unpick, pull apart, refold and put together again on the brazilian repro dogleg to make it fit. Afetr many hours fairly happy with the result - for something that SHOULD have taken a day!

I stink of metal (just for a change) and I think I need an hour in the bath...

later all

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

kombi_kid · 7 Mar 2004, 7:11 pm

sweet as dude!!!! i have my dual cab booked in next for the rusty crusty treatment!
cheers
rhys

twoguns · 7 Mar 2004, 7:18 pm

rob, i froth when i see your work. it so good. even better as it is hands on. makes me so nervous re mine. but i cant wait to get into it. can see my self spending a bit of time down with it.

keep all your details coming. it is so enlightening, and really should make people aware of the values of these things.

have you ideas on colours yet?

Bumpstopbus · 7 Mar 2004, 7:19 pm

Hi Rob its lookin good mate i would have to agree with you on the barzilian repo stuff i dont think i have ever fit anything without haveing to strugle with it.
:beer Kurt

baybuscamperkid · 7 Mar 2004, 8:42 pm

man, if i ever do a bus like that i wanna hire a guy like you (mind you i would never be able to pay for the number of hours that u put in, but your work is staggering!)

greenbus · 7 Mar 2004, 9:44 pm

You make it sound so easy?!?!

splitbusaustralia · 8 Mar 2004, 7:03 am

I'll do Leo as an old school themed bus since he'll be IRS'ed etc.

Thinking he will be solid Pearl Grey (ute original interior panel colour is pearl gray) with mouse grey (lighter) bumpers and highlight panels on the gates. Two black rally stripes (offset on passengers side one wider one thinner), black tonneau cover and black BRMs. Pearl grey interior.

I will do a tilt and canvas for him if I can find some bows to use (or at least some to copy)..

????????????????

RobK

BenettonVW · 8 Mar 2004, 6:05 pm

Rob, just incredible, and I think you know now that you are Australia's BUS GOD!!

My query was, that you made a reference to the time that it should have taken, being one day, but how long did it actually take?

It seems in my little bus world, everything takes aaagggeeessssss... 🙂 Mainly because you discover other things along the way, eg your cut and shut B pillar..

Again, fantastic stuff. :thumb

bugboymatt · 8 Mar 2004, 6:14 pm

Mate your work is excellent.
Nuff said.

twoguns · 8 Mar 2004, 6:27 pm

sounds good mate. cant wait to see it for real.:thumb

Notchbacktastic · 8 Mar 2004, 7:24 pm

Leo's looking heaps better, but the Milk Crate (under Leo, last pic) looks a little secondhand!
Rock On

:thumb

kombi_mad · 9 Mar 2004, 1:04 pm

hey, where would one get the brazilian repro panels?

57kombi · 9 Mar 2004, 2:11 pm

Rob.

You make it look soooooo easy
I have just discoverd that I have had my bus 3 years next month and still havent got to the paintin stage.
So when are you coming to Adelaide for a working holiday?????

Good work...

Cheers
Dave

splitbusaustralia · 9 Mar 2004, 2:36 pm

I buy the brazilian repro doglegs from Hardings......

They take a LOT of fitting, but easier once you've done a couple and know the tricks and certainly better than trying to make from scratch!

They are often advertised as 'correct' for 64-67 because they have the 'narrow' lip from those years. However, they are made in 3 pieces like original barndoor doglegs (but without the early 'wide' lip) so they are not technically correct for 64-67 either.

Not that I personally care, just comments for the purists. Fairly easy to modify the lip to make wider and 'correct' for the earlier years, can't do much about the 3 piece construction for post barndoor busses though...

Clear as mud eh ??????????????????????

RobK

kombi_mad · 9 Mar 2004, 4:00 pm

thanks for that Rob.

ash

:jesus

splitbusaustralia · 14 Mar 2004, 4:28 pm

Mainly a fitting day today.....but did repair the front passengers floor.
Question for Dave Birchall - what is not technically correct about this repair (and how many points is it worth?).

Finished welding in passenger's dogleg too.

Got the doors fitted. Gaps are good (and if I had to move to B pillar around again I was gonna scream!). Top hinge on passenger's compartment door needs another small tweak (about 1mm) to pull the top of the door in flush. You can see the dint in the front cab door, and its sprung as well. Anton vw59 is kindly giving me a cab door to replace this one...

View from side....you can see the top of the passengers compatment door needs to come in just a tad (gotta bend hinge - if you just push it in on the bolts it closes the top gap at the front of the door...).

Remember you should always test fit doors before paint!
I'll tidy this side up and strip it and etch prime, fill and hi-fill prime. Dogleg and the passenger's cab side panel on the driver's side next!

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

BenettonVW · 14 Mar 2004, 5:00 pm

Rob, maybe you could msg me or mail me your exact process with body work.. For example, do you use chemicals?(paint stripper for eg.)
Maybe for those rookies out there, you might want to explain it here even..

For example, not everyone knows what "I'll tidy this side up and strip it and etch prime, fill and hi-fill prime" means.. so, for those project workers out there like yourself, please let us know!

kombi_kid · 14 Mar 2004, 5:01 pm

what them dog legs lik to fit rob??? you said u pretty much had to re-make them to fit probably and also what area do they cover???
again dude top work!you coming up for the nationals?
cheers
rhys

57kombi · 14 Mar 2004, 7:58 pm

You have shamed me ito it again Rob.

Will take tomorrow off to get mine in primer at last.

Just found my original reciept, bought it 3 years ago next month.

How time flies when your working on a splitty.

Cheers
Dave

Bizarre · 14 Mar 2004, 8:10 pm

splitbusaustralia wrote:- what is not technically correct about this repair ?

You used steel instead of bog?? :jesus

"You can see the dint in the front cab door, and its sprung as well" - yeah right Rob!
Not worth keeping!
Why dont you throw it out!
(ummm.... what night is garbage night down your way???)

Man - you do TOP work!

What colour you doing this one in???

Barry

vw54 · 15 Mar 2004, 6:31 am

Rob is that Brass i can see ???

what about the MIG welds instead of spots...

Hey its looking great so how many times did you have to moove the pillar......

Barry I am first in line for this one... Shit it looks great Keep it up

splitbusaustralia · 15 Mar 2004, 8:50 am

Gees c'mon dave! have a another look! It's to do with the pressings! And yes there is brass there - lotsa brass used in the construction of these things I think cos they were ALMOST a special build. Brass is not good and partly explain why most of em are so crusty - the brass remains and the steel is sacrificial! (to rust..)...cut'n'shut or cut'n'opened the pillat twice dave...

Dunno about this year Rhys. Really have nothing to drive. Will be there with Leo next year though....the doglegs are difficult to fit....as they come they leave too much gap under the door. I unpick the top folded edge, straighten them up and refold it to remove about 3mm (and move them up 3 mm). Can't do much more cos refolding narrows the seal channel and then the seal won't fit in. The repro doglegs are complete and comprise the complete structure under the front wheel arch from A pillar to B pillar.

Jim when I have time I'll offer a little explanation and put it in 'paint'n'body' section of tech talk...

RobK

vw54 · 15 Mar 2004, 7:25 pm

yeah the pressing arnt they yours... and mighty fine as well !!!!
So the ends are not correct but who cars... just as long as the glass is sitting right !!!

kombi_kid · 15 Mar 2004, 8:49 pm

i will remember that night for ever!!! i got to ride in your 23 window and hear birchall put down ur bloody windows!!!
ahahahahaahahah u crack me up dave!
cheers
rhys

wrecker67 · 15 Mar 2004, 10:02 pm

thats some great work...
keep it up..
cheers

555bug · 15 Mar 2004, 11:55 pm

man I'm upset, I have the same mig and I'm getting a better one as I always put down my crap welding to the mig. Your pictures obviously make me question this 🙁 please tell me that you have another mig or a tig :cry

kombi_kid · 16 Mar 2004, 7:01 am

or just a good grinder!!!! :P:P:P i wish i had the hand for welding spose practice makes perfect!
cheers
rhys

splitbusaustralia · 16 Mar 2004, 7:07 am

Yeah! AND THEN HE DRANK ALL THE BEER TOO!

Nope - only MIG I have. It's had a lot of use and served me well. Fine for all guages of steel found on a bus. I have a stick welder for anything over 3 mm. I weld 1.2mm and above with the A3 setting, most everything else thinner with the A2 setting and might very occassionally go to 1/2 for delicate stuff - wire speed around 5.5 (although mine mightn't run as fast now though as I said its had a lot of use).

You need gas. You need clean metal. You need a good earth. If its sorta 'popping on top' and not penetrating with that 'crackle' your wire speed is too high.
Blowing holes wire speed too low. I always have lotsa gas running (have reg set twice as high as usually recommended - uses more gas $$$ but you get better results with high flow I find...)

????????????????

RobK

vw54 · 16 Mar 2004, 7:15 am

So am i right

Rhys thats not nice

splitbusaustralia · 16 Mar 2004, 7:42 am

mmmm - close but no banana! Think you owe me a crownie on this one!

Third and fourth pressings in from the LHS (door side) should be longer and in fact go back to the edge of the floor. ....

The floor curves up here and my little die thing is flat - if I press em to the right length and then try to bend I get distortion and crinkles - so they're a bit short and where the floor curves has no pressing! I'll probably match the other side to it although the other side is solid at that spot.

mmmmmmm crownie

RobK

sgetty · 16 Mar 2004, 12:16 pm

rob what kind and how mutch would i be looking at to buy a secent mig welder

vw54 · 16 Mar 2004, 5:41 pm

OK OK so you got me on the pressing ,,,, but who cares about Chequer plate any way.

I know with yr Hammer n dolly you can make it look just right..

Just finish MY new car will yar.

Beer is on me in Sydney No problems. mmmm

kombi_kid · 16 Mar 2004, 6:56 pm

dave im not nice ................ valla is in mind aswell!!!
anyway u gonna get this off rob are u dave???
shot gun the barney!
cheers
rhys

splitbusaustralia · 27 Mar 2004, 7:29 pm

Well,

After some misc domestic stuff and a bit of time on
parks'n'gardens spent some time with Leo.

Stripped to bare metal, filled, sanded, hi-fill primed
and sanded. Another coat of hi-fill tomorrow and then logistics moving
busses so I can turn him around and do the dogleg and passengers compartment outer panel on the other side....

Given I started Novemberish and have basically replaced his
bottom 6 inches he's going OK! On schedule to make next years Nationals!

RobK

[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]

MickH · 27 Mar 2004, 8:26 pm

Cripes....you've even put most of the newspaper on straight!!!! Thats it I'm selling both of mine....could not repair them to that standard. Well done!!!!!!!!!!!!!:bounce

KruizinKombi · 30 Mar 2004, 9:46 am

He's looking better all the time Rob! 😀😀

72TWINCAB · 30 Mar 2004, 10:55 am

Love your work Rob. Can't wait to see Leo finished:bounce

splitbusaustralia · 4 Apr 2004, 3:07 pm

Well,

Its only 3pm and I've got a bit of welder's flash
so I'm going to call it a day.

Turned Leo around so I can fit the new driver's dogleg,
but there was the small matter of repairing the bottom
of the driver's side A pillar....

This is the shape it was in

This is a short under the front floor - you can see the
rear of the front valance is also rusty and swollen in this corner.

Rebuilt the pillar bottom

Finished it up....

Repaired the RHS of the lower front valance

View from the other side....

The front valance and bottom of the nose skin isn't THAT
bad considering what the rest of Leo was like...but I'll replace
the bottom of the valance right across and also the
bottom of the nose skin - its just one of those things that
should be dome while you're at it - nothing worse than having
bubbles appear under your new paint job a couple of years
down the track....

later all

RobK

baybuscamperkid · 4 Apr 2004, 6:08 pm

MAN! what the HELL are you gonna do after u finish Leo? you will be lost with spare time and without a welder in your hand!

vw54 · 4 Apr 2004, 8:11 pm

Keep up the good work mate, yes i like it, so it was an easy task all in an arvos work hey

twoguns · 4 Apr 2004, 8:15 pm

i think rob could get the panel from vwfool. that would have to keep him busy for a little while more.😀

kombi_kid · 4 Apr 2004, 8:55 pm

or do his 54 barney!!! (which will be mine :vader muahahahahahahahahahaha)
i wish i had the talent you do rob what trades do u have under your belt?
cheers
rhys

eirecooled · 4 Apr 2004, 10:04 pm

hi Rob if you are using the mig alot I would recomend the auto welding helmets. they are great and will eliminate that welding flash. waited for them to come on sale at a trade tools outlets. under $100 and worth every cent. Then you can weld for even longer. you do nice construction work from scratch. looking straight and smooth:thumb

pod · 5 Apr 2004, 1:05 am

i second that suggestion as i borrow the one i use at work and they are magic:thumb

splitbusaustralia · 5 Apr 2004, 6:56 am

Thanks guys - I do have one. Sometimes though
I am 'bad' and do the 'weld through the eyelids' thing
which I know is not recommended practice. Did it to position
that front patch - sometimes things are just tooawkward
to position with clamps etc and you just end up holding
it in position and needing a REALLY good view BEFORE
tacking. Position - view- shut eyes-try and mask arc
with end of handgrip-weld-welder's flash...

I'm not recommending the practice....

RobK

Brad · 8 Apr 2004, 2:34 pm

so when does dave take delivery of his bus 😉

splitbusaustralia · 8 Apr 2004, 3:22 pm

As soon as he finishes paying for it!

He did send six old crownie
caps, two used bus tickets and and out-of-date tube
of haemarrhoid cream as part payment the
other day......

Although he also sent it collect which probably
detracts from its value a bit......

Brad · 8 Apr 2004, 3:31 pm

so he must only own another half dozen caps and a roll of patterened toilet paper :alien

vw54 · 8 Apr 2004, 4:50 pm

Hey ROB

can you send the haemarrhoid cream back as i need it right now.

Hey i sent U a cheque as well ... didnt you get it ..

splitbusaustralia · 8 Apr 2004, 6:54 pm

I don't want yer bloody (old age) pension cheques dave!

Put em to good use and buy some pet food and bread or something...

vw54 · 8 Apr 2004, 9:04 pm

Hummmm pet fooood on Toast F that not to day thank U

I want REAL meat.

kombi_kid · 8 Apr 2004, 10:12 pm

dave mate i dont know what runs through your mind for you to want "REAL meat"
nothing suss
cheers
rhys

splitbusaustralia · 12 Apr 2004, 5:42 pm

Last time we left Birchall's bus I was going to start
on the 'other' side - fixing the passenger's compartment
outer skin and putting the new driver's dogleg in...

The passenger's compartment outer skin has more waves
than Bells this Easter. Leo had been hit in this side, effecting
B and c pillars and the repair was really really average.

I've fixed the pillars and inner stringers up, but the outer skin
had filler up to 15mm thick in places - some class work goes
on out there! (still commercial vehicles often get average
repairs....). Skin had been bashed around and filled.

Here's a shot to try and show how bent and buggered it was. You can see where I've been shrinking it before dollying.
I ran out of acetylene (grrr) today - it will be a hell of a lot better
than this when I finish!

I did get the front upper skin shrunk and straightened a bit before running out of gas(grrr - hate running out of gas!)

Went on to fit the dogleg. As I've said before the brazilian repros
are yards better than starting from scratch but they do take
some fitting.

If we draw a line showing the door bottom...

and then offer up the brazilian repro leg as it comes you can see
you'd end up with a 11-12mm bottom door gap which just won't cut the mustard!

So, if you unpick the top of the dogleg and refold it (might
as well straighten it while you're at it) you can remove about
7mm from that gap..... and end up with a more reasonable
3-5mm door gap

Leo's B p[illar on this side was also wobbly (as was the one on
the other side - looks like he's been hit both sides and front
at some point in his life. More hits than Hendrix!). See how the driver's door aligns at the bottom but the pillar
pokes out at the top...

Cut and shut that pillar (too) and now the drivers doors has
good gaps and alignment.

and how he's looking at the end of Easter...

Nearly there!

regards

RobK

vw54 · 12 Apr 2004, 5:47 pm

So thats why you didnt come up and see me over Easter

twoguns · 12 Apr 2004, 5:49 pm

mate, that is some serious work. i dont even think i will have my ute in the same suburb as yours, let alone beside you at a show.
samn thats going to be fine.🙂

BenettonVW · 12 Apr 2004, 7:02 pm

*Jim gives a rye smile, then shakes his head...*

Unbelieveable. But how would one know if their doglegs are rooted? I thought mine were okay, like 6 or 7 out of ten before this.. Were yours a disaster, or are you a fussy bastard?(reads: perfectionist)

splitbusaustralia · 12 Apr 2004, 8:40 pm

He'll be Ok - presentable and nice to drive/use which will suit
us perfectly.

But the truth is that Leo is coming off a fairly low base and that
he'll probably never look as 'good' as a vehicle that didn't have the rust
and poorly repaired accident damage problems in the first place.

But he'll be on the road being used which is where he belongs!

Jim - your doglegs are cactus if you can poke a screwdriver
through them! Most splitbusses have rust problems in the
doglegs - questions is how rusty...can the originals be patched/repaired
or has it gone so far that replacement is a wiser alternative.
Every bus I've taken rusty doglegs off also has rust problems in the
pillars which the doglegs have covered!

RobK

Brad · 12 Apr 2004, 9:25 pm

I have only three letter for you Rob ..... WOW !!!

eirecooled · 12 Apr 2004, 9:31 pm

rust begone spell doesn't seem to work as well as your repairs do!. nice work. thanks for the photos I often wondered why you went on about the panel you had to modify,now i know why.😉

ducky · 12 Apr 2004, 9:49 pm

damn good work. I like leo a lot

splitbusaustralia · 19 Apr 2004, 11:48 am

Spent all Sunday arvo working on Leo’s passenger’s compartment outer skin. This side had previous accident damage and had been hammered about, stretchhhhhed and filled with bog up to 15mm thick in some places.

10 Heated
20 Dollied
30 Go to 10 until many hours have passed.
40 End

Began to wish I’d reskinned it but given I’d welded rockers, floor, posts and stringers into it (stupidly believing in my own publicity as a metal beater) that wasn’t going to be an easy path either.

Anyway, go it straight. Still a few little waves in the outer rear pillar section but I can’t get in behind it and I’m not going to open him up again to do so. Guess I’ll live with 1-3mm of filler as opposed to 15mm.

Bit sore today. Bruised up both my underarms where I’ve been leaning through the popout window with a dolly on one side and a hammer on the other. Need longer arms!

RobK

BenettonVW · 19 Apr 2004, 12:55 pm

Maybe you can borrow mine mate, they're pretty long! :P

ByronBug · 19 Apr 2004, 1:14 pm

:sandrine
Rob,
Yes sometimes things get a bit disheartening, but look at all the progress you have made....
Hes coming along great... always eagerly reading your postings & wishing my 58 split will look as good as yours one day.
Keep going with him....there are many of us watching & looking forward to leo's completion.
Judy

Anthiron · 19 Apr 2004, 1:17 pm

looks well worth the effort and bruises to me😎 keep it up

KruizinKombi · 19 Apr 2004, 1:40 pm

Awesome work Rob, as seems to be the norm with you. :thumb

Ps. I've merged all your posts about Leo into one so people can see the whole story without searching for it. I think Ian's posts on the Desert Splitty will be next!

Doug Sweetman · 19 Apr 2004, 2:52 pm

Gee whiz, its just fantastic to see that there are still some real skilled metal workers out there.

I just love reading your posts Rob ! It reminds me of a day a few years (10 or so) ago when I learned to appreciate fine metal work. My dad is also into classic english cars, and we happened to go over to a friend of his from the local vintage club. He was about 60 ish by then, and was restoring a Triumph of some description. I was absolutely startled to hear that he never uses BOG in any of his cars ! I did not believe it until I saw his Triumph in all its glory. This was a man of the old school, who could form a complex curved panel with an English Wheel, when 90% of panelbeaters nowdays wouldnt know what an English Wheel is.

Fantastic Work. Keep it up !!!

Brad · 21 Apr 2004, 10:55 pm

what's and english wheel ??

modulus · 21 Apr 2004, 11:22 pm

splitbusaustralia wrote:I will do a tilt and canvas for him if I can find some bows to use (or at least some to copy)..

The bows are dead simple; I haven't seen any genuine ones in the flesh but from photos they're a U-channel, with the open side facing inward. I'm always surprised that they're apparently strong enough to stand up to driving with the canvas up....

There are probably enough photos around, including close ups of the attachment to the bed, to make a very good approximation; then you just nip down to Libby's Canvas and Camping for the rest... (OK, he's my brother-in-law).

hth

splitbusaustralia · 24 Apr 2004, 7:09 am

Anything made by Midland Wheel Services?

Here's a link to description and pics of an English wheel.
The thing they don't say is that you can also use them to
'recompress' stretched metal...great for those early Chev fenders!

http://www.irvansmith.com/catalog2/english_wheels.shtml

I think Eastwood Co. in the US also sells English wheel 'kits'.

RobK

vw54 · 24 Apr 2004, 7:15 am

I think you need one Rob.

Bill Daws · 24 Apr 2004, 8:27 am

An amazing tribute to a craftsman.
Great work - could not imagine the hours anddedication required to bring Leo back from the dead.
Fantastic

57kombi · 24 Apr 2004, 3:47 pm

Midland wheels BRMs are very good.

Cheers
Dave

splitbusaustralia · 1 May 2004, 6:33 am

Another new thread for a Leo update. Still, I do think Col needs to be constructively employed tying all my loose and separate threads together........keeps him busy and stops him from stirring up trouble!

Spent most of last Fri/Sat/Sun wopping (Working on Other Peoples Stuff) but did get a bit done on Leo as well.

Tidied up the new driver's side dogleg.

Repaired the driver's side floor.

Repaired the pop-out window sill and fitted another hinge (kindly given to me by 57Kombi).

Spent a few more hours working the passengers compartment outer skin. Eventually got sick of that and bare metalled that side and etch primed. And how straight did I end up getting it? About an 8 out of 10. This is the metal finished skin after etch priming. Will still need some filler.....

If I could get off spending time at Gloria Jeans sucking caramel lattes things would go a bit faster!

Later All

RobK

vw54 · 1 May 2004, 9:09 am

Yuk Caramel Lattes

dont spill any on my car !!!

Grey 57 · 1 May 2004, 8:12 pm

Lookin good Rob. Nice work.

BenettonVW · 2 May 2004, 3:15 pm

It'll be brand new by the end of it... which... I spose... is sorta the idea.... :P

Swampy · 3 May 2004, 10:18 pm

Nice

Did you get your doglegs in country?

How many % do you reckon you are up to?

KruizinKombi · 4 May 2004, 11:55 am

Beautiful work Rob, as usual. 🙂

I don't mind merging the posts, I think it's better for people to be able to see the whole process in the one thread rather than looking for the old threads that have slipped down the list. I think most of us who look in regularly know to skip straight to the latest page. Besides, I'd rather see you spend your spare time on Leo, I'm enjoying the updates. 🙂

splitbusaustralia · 9 May 2004, 8:31 pm

Greetings All,

Another little step forwrd for Leo today. Finished filling
and sanding (and filling and sanding) the driver's side cab
and passengers compartment and got some hi-fill onto it.

Started on the front valance (that's the bit at the bottom
of the nose skin). Chopped the paint and bog off that
and voila! You can of course fix any rust and damage with
enough filler. Think this was a new record for leo with
filler being over 30mm thick here....

Repaired that. Shot from front.

and from the rear. Replaced the bottom of the valance all
the way across..

I'll replace the bottom 50mm of the nose skin while I'm at it.

And that's really the last of the rust repair on the body!

Still have to fit safaris and seat belt mounts but that's not
really rust repair! Leo is very close to having a clean bill
of health !.....

RobK

BenettonVW · 9 May 2004, 9:04 pm

What can us mere mortals say mate...

KruizinKombi · 10 May 2004, 9:33 am

Awesome work Rob, you're the master :thumb

Is that the next project I see in the shed with Leo already???

splitbusaustralia · 16 May 2004, 6:08 pm

Well,

Spent a little time this weekend working on Leo.

(Spent the rest of the weekend getting Brad's country
buggy spindles apart and getting the inner bearing
races off them - garage looked like something out of a cartoon
- discarded tools, broken and bent pullers. heat wrench
thrown in disgust etc etc. Anyway I digress I'll post in tech
talk what I found out about CB spindles...)

Afetr repairing the front valance I decided to also replace
the botttom of Leo's nose skin. Here's a shot showing the lower
nose - note doesn't look too bad...a few rust show throughs.
Could possibly rotary wire brush and paint?

Here's why you can't do this. This is the bottom 3 inches of the
lower nose skin from the other side. Could have wire brushed
rust treated and painted this only to have rust break through
again in 1-2 years.

removed the lower nose skin and painted the inner structure
with a good suirt of zinc rich primer.

Replaced the outer skin. Still have to finish welding and tidy up.

Later all

RobK

vw54 · 16 May 2004, 6:18 pm

HEy Rob Is a nose job the same as a head job ????

Still looking good ...

So tell us where havent U found rust ??? looks like its bloody every where

splitbusaustralia · 16 May 2004, 6:31 pm

They're all the same Dave. Gotta replace the bottom 6 inches
(went higher on Leo in some places) on most of em......

vw54 · 16 May 2004, 6:36 pm

So wot section does not have any rust ???

splitbusaustralia · 16 May 2004, 9:51 pm

The roof was OK - few dints but no rust! I'm also thinking
the windshield frames are also OK but I haven't bare metalled
them yet so not 100% sure......

robnjo · 18 May 2004, 8:55 pm

oooh...getting abit scared at what I might find in mine🙁

splitbusaustralia · 14 Jun 2004, 6:11 pm

Well,

had a stinking case of flu and a couple of light weeks
on Leo. ..... but did finish repairing the front valance and
bottom of the nose skin and bare metalled....

Etch primed and got it into hi build primer. This pics a little
close but given the recent spate of melbourne weather
I didn't want to put the barney out in the rain so I could
stand back a bit......

Reconditioned and restored the speedo as 'light' work
while fluey....what's wrong with this speedo Dave B? There's
a crownie for the correct answer about what's incorrect..

Leo's fuel guage was also kaput but Dave Dirk (57Kombi)
was kind enough the send me a working replacement that
was in very nice original condition........onya dave!

Went on to fit a set of Creative Engineering's safaris. Now
you can hold em on with self tappers which is an average
solution given the metal you screw em into is 1mm thick....
basically self tappers pull through fairly quickly (if you
use the safaris at all) and you get no adjustment (and they leak like
buggery because you can't position the frames
against the seals)...

Best fix is to do like factory and drill holes in the box section
overhead and insert bolt retaining plates....get em well
connected and with some adjustment (about 3mm side to side)..

As a first step, offer the safaris up to the frame, centre
them up and mark the hinge holes on the overhead box
section. Drill holes out to 10mm diameter.

Make two bolt retaining plates. 12mm wide by 46mm long
by 3mm thick. Holes are centred 70mm apart and tapped
for M5 (5mm) bolts..

Cut a little slot in the top corner of the 'opposite' windshield frame.

Insert the bolt retaining plate through the slot into the
box section on the other side of the windshield

Weld up slot and clean up. You can also see the bolt retaining
plate sitting in the overhead box section on this side.

Use a couple of screws to attach the safari frames and then
position the inner brackets so that the safaris will close and
open fully.

Weld brackets in and yer done!

later all

RobK

[Edited on 14-6-2004 by splitbusaustralia]

vw54 · 14 Jun 2004, 6:41 pm

Thats a strong idea with the windows... would hate them to fall out while your driving along relying only on a self tapper or 2.

Dasdubber · 14 Jun 2004, 7:06 pm

Excellent work Rob! Looking fantastic and very very thorough!

BenettonVW · 14 Jun 2004, 7:30 pm

Very cool Rob. Nice work. Are the latches down the bottom much work, or not really compared to the rest?

killakornkobb · 14 Jun 2004, 10:02 pm

great work!!!

is the speedo thingy that the indicator for changing into 4th is blurred.. did splitty's have a "4th" as such?

[Edited on 14-6-2004 by killakornkobb]

killakornkobb · 14 Jun 2004, 10:05 pm

you dont shift into first gear at 10MPH???

65busser · 14 Jun 2004, 10:10 pm

Is the needle out of a bug speedo? Yeh ok kkk got it.
BTW Rob, do you have a genie or a magic wand or something? I just wish I could make my head work like that. And you did it with a runny nose!!!

[Edited on 14-6-2004 by 65busser]

[Edited on 14-6-2004 by 65busser]

splitbusaustralia · 15 Jun 2004, 6:00 am

Gees - good pick. So close that I'll award the crownie!

The speedo is all original for a post 60 ish (?) Oz bus speedo.

50s speedos had the 'matchstick' needle and two indicator
arrows at the top with green plastic. Post 60 had the plastic
speedo needle (as above) and the single diamond indicator
arrow with red plastic..

As Leo is a 62 the speedo is correct but the end of the speedo
needle was chipped and fragile so I had to clean it up and
shorten it by about 2mm!

The speedo needle is too short!

Good job!

RobK

Daniel · 15 Jun 2004, 6:56 am

That's the best step by step I've seen for securing safari's. I'm definately going to be doing that with mine. Thanks for that! 😀

Grey 57 · 15 Jun 2004, 9:57 am

Beautiful work as always Rob.

KruizinKombi · 15 Jun 2004, 10:55 am

I never get tired of this thread Rob, seeing your progress gives me a sense of fulfillment, even though its not my bus!! :thumb

Zimblewinder · 21 Jun 2004, 8:13 pm

great stuff. Got into restoring my speedo the other day and the needle was about the same condition (aging) with some very fine cracks too. Sorry to say it exploded into about a million pieces:repuke

The only good thing is I have a second speedo dated 58 in better conditon. I was hoping to flog this one for a delux clock. Oh well....

Where did you get the gels for lights? Thanks for the pics very interesting.

VolksFolks · 21 Jun 2004, 9:10 pm

Just fantastic rob, feel soo guilty as i hav'nt yet started my bus, added to my favs for future requirments, just one Q, do use argon gas or co2 mix, thanks and keep up the awsome work

Andy

kombi_mad · 27 Jun 2004, 6:49 pm

i saw a late 50's bus that was soo psycodelic they had even freaked out the speedo with rainbows, tyedies and acid flashbacks..it looked so cool..
hey,thanks for the info Rob, awsome, and im sure extremly handy for alot of us.

ash

ducky · 27 Jun 2004, 10:25 pm

love your commitment

kombi_mad · 28 Jun 2004, 1:45 pm

whats with the crome in the middle of this...speaking of speedo's....just curious...has someone with a crome addiction done this, or was is standard

[Edited on 1-7-2004 by kombi_mad]

splitbusaustralia · 11 Jul 2004, 6:44 pm

Greetings All,

Still hacking away at Leo, and thought I'd post an update
covering fitting seat belt mounts.

Australian Design regs (ADRs) require that a mount be made of
1/4 inch plate and have a surface area equivalent of 50 sq cm
(sorry about the mix of measures - just the way it is!).

I make two sorts of mounts - one type for the under floor mounts
measuring 5 cm by 10 cm (5cm is a standard width when buying plate) for the 'lap' part of the belt
and another for pillar mounts measuring 3cm by 17 cm (3cm
is another standard width for 1/4 inch plate) for the 'sash' part of the belt. Both produce
the surface area required by current ADRs.

Drill a hole through the centre of each and weld on a suitable
nut (gees I've had a bit of a brain fart and forgotten the standard bolt seat belt thread and nut. I'll look it
up again and post...).

from the other side

For the under floor mounts drill three holes. One for the bolt and
two others to puddle weld the plate in place....

Offer the plate up and hold it in place with the seat belt bolt through the middle hole.
Use the other two holes to weld in in place ..... voila!
(the hole beside is where an old hole was....)

For the pillar mounts, drill three holes in the pillar and cut a small 'flap' opening.
Weld a bit of wire to the back of the pillar mount and lower it
through the flap....

Hold the plate in position with the wire while you insert the bolt into the
plate through the middle hole to hold it in position. Break off the wire. Use the top
and bottom holes to puddle weld the plate in place. Close the
flap, weld up and tidy everything up. B pillar mount for
the 'sash' in a twin cab.....

C pillar mount for a sash for the rear seat...

Also painted the passengers compartment floor and the front
floor with 'rust bullet'....

And stripped the dash to bare metal for repainting (everyone sees
it and it doesn't take long to strip)

The whole inside is in primer now. It's just drying and I'll
take another coupla pics shortly and post.

Basically Leo's main body is rust repaired and now in primer.
Now I'm going to 'rust bullet' underneath and go right through the running
gear. RobK dropped spindles on a king a link pin beam in front with bay discs. Bay
IRS rear with Type 4 engine conversion. Rewire. I'll get that
done and then paint. I'll take pics for little 'how-tos' as I go.
regards

RobK

in primer....

[Edited on 11-7-2004 by splitbusaustralia]

greenbus · 11 Jul 2004, 11:23 pm

Rob, this is more than helpful,I was actually making inquiries today about what to do seat-belt wise....thanks heaps....
Oh...and I'll have those spindles for you shortly

Regards...

Elton😀

splitbusaustralia · 17 Jul 2004, 4:25 pm

Pulled the front end out of Leo, cleaned up underneath
and painted with rust bullet..

Will clean up front beam (yuk - awful job that's going to be)
and put it back in next...but not this weekend! Bus free day
at the footy tomorrow...Go Dees!

RobK

Adam_C · 18 Jul 2004, 6:27 pm

*CKING GO THEM DEES .... smashed em, rob, i wish my car was as clean as that is, and is going to be! thats awesome keep up the work...... by the way how did u get it that clean?

[Edited on 18-7-2004 by Adam_C]

vw54 · 18 Jul 2004, 6:42 pm

I wish you would hurry up n finish my CAR !!! :kiss

matara · 18 Jul 2004, 9:41 pm

Yeah Rob, How can your garage floor look that clean and where did the 40 years of accumulated dirt disappear to? Spill the beans

Cheers

Steve

splitbusaustralia · 19 Jul 2004, 10:21 am

dave - you need to send another $10k ASAP! (and I'd prefer
not to send Gurkhan around for it this time....)

Dees did whip em although the first half was typically
Bulldogs scrappy and aaron davies did his hammy just in front of
us - Telstra surface looks like an ice rink in spots!

Wasn't that hard to clean underneath cos most of it is
'new' metal (including rear floor)! Otherwise pressure wash,
pressure wash, pressure wash, rotary wire brush and maybe
sand blast a few areas like corners etc where the wire brush
won't reach....

Pleased that it held up under pressure washing this time!
When I first bought Leo home I pressure washed him for the
first time and the pressure washer ending up literally chopping out
most of the outriggers, inner rockers and centre chassis sections! hmmmmmmm.......

RobK

KruizinKombi · 19 Jul 2004, 11:42 am

Nice job Rob!! Damn that Rust Bullet looks good!

Zimblewinder · 20 Jul 2004, 11:08 pm

Hi Rob, found the (now) asian/oceania supplier for rust bullet and hes going to send me some asap. If anyone else is after this stuff then try direct like Rob did. You PAY to get it from the USA via Singapore. They told me direct was out to Japan. BUMMER. Thanks too for the note about ADRs.
Cheers

Oh while we're on ADRs anyone know how Ill get along trying to run with semaphores and bumper mounted accesory lights for indicators in Oz? I really dont want to leave the incorrect bullets on the front or end up with monster orange glass bowls. Just some discreet (until theyre flashing) bumper line pedestal indicators like on the classic look motorbikes these days. What do you think? (sorry to hijack some space)

[Edited on 20-7-2004 by Zimblewinder]

karmannghia60 · 21 Jul 2004, 10:00 pm

U r a patient man Rob

jenz58 · 22 Jul 2004, 11:49 am

Wow...looking a bit different to the first pics you put up..😎

So THE big question...When do you think you'll have it finished by? 🙂

splitbusaustralia · 22 Jul 2004, 12:57 pm

G'day Jen,

Dyl (my 11 yo) and I will drive leo to the 05 Easter nationals.....

I went back and actually checked the early pics and noticed some weren't
coming up because I changed servers - they're showing
now.

There's also bit of a glitch some where in the middle pages of leo's
history where the description and pics are a bit jumbled. I'll
try and sort this out when I have time....

Patience? I'm positively streakin'
along here! 8-)! Haven't been going a year from start date yet!

There was a question regarding MIG gas I didn't answer too.
I do use the argon CO2 mix. There is a new cheaper argon
'lite' mix being offered by BOC with less argon content - I'm happy to
pay the 'extra' for the heavy cos anything with less argon in
it is going to burn hotter and give more warpage problems...

(sorta the reverse of beer where drinking heavies is what gives
you the warpage problems ........ )

RobK

splitbusaustralia · 31 Jul 2004, 5:28 pm

Well,

Everyone is off at Valla and I don't really have anything to drive......next time 8-)...

But I don't mind too much - today I got to do something I have
been planning and building for quite a while.....

Firstly I converted leo to the later twin circuit 72-79 bay bus
master cylinder. This is an easy conversion really..

You need to buy a 72-79 master cylinder and fit a MkI golf
reservoir and make a half inch spacer and buy some longer
mounting bolts and that's it really - just bolts in from there.

And in place under the bus. The reservoir filler hole is just
above (although I taped over it to paint underneath)..

Started cleaning up leo's front beam. Scraped, chiselled, wire brushed
and sand blasted ( like to do the absolute minimum of blasting - too messy!).

A previous owner had lost one of the upper shocker bolts and
replaced with an undersized nut'n'bolt. This proceeded to wallow
out the upper shock mount hole. Had to make a sleeve and weld
in to repair.

Fitted a new center pin kit and got the beam painted.

Got the beam in. This is the tool to measure the offset of the torsion
arms. You use this measure to calculate that proper arrangement of the link pin shims to get the camber right.
Leo came in with the factory correct offset of 7.5mm (onya leo)!

Fitted a set of RobK dropped spindles (with camber correct).
Then gathered a few bits'n'pieces and

And the 'big' shops say it can't be done on a king and link pin beam!
You have to fit a 68-69 beam (and drop it 6 inches on adjusters)
to get discs on the front of a lowered splitbus. Hah! (there's no doubt I can
be a self-congratulatory wanker at times....).

(humming hotel california as I tend to do when in a self-congratulatory wankerish mood....)

RobK

[Edited on 31-7-2004 by splitbusaustralia]

moonlite6t6beetle · 31 Jul 2004, 5:55 pm

NIIIICE

nbturbo · 31 Jul 2004, 8:45 pm

So what have used for your disc conversion.I want to do it to a country buggy front end and I imagine that it would use the same set up you have.I want mine to end up with 5x130 stud pattern.Any info would be much appreciated

cray · 31 Jul 2004, 9:14 pm

beerdoc · 1 Aug 2004, 12:00 pm

Hi RobK,

Love watching your work and would like to catch up one day cause after I get these Lbugs out of the way for Daughters I intend to do up a splittie.

Cheers Doc

pyr0 · 1 Aug 2004, 1:02 pm

nice work i always love seeing your updates on your splitty. 😎 :thumb

splitbusaustralia · 2 Aug 2004, 10:35 am

Hmmm,

Long reply coming NBturbo. In short, I’m not sure I’m going to be much help to you. I wanted 5x112 PCD (bay bus) discs to match what will be in the IRS rear. However, I had to modify/make hubs and find different bearings etc to make this happen on splitbus spindle stub axles. Also had to make caliper brackets.

Another option for me would have been to IRS the rear and retain the wide5 pattern (IRS from 68/69 bus) and then put a wide5 disc conversion on the front. At the time I began working on this only the CSP kit was available at something like $2000+ landed here. Recently John Sherman in QLD has been offering wide5 disc conversion for splitbus at something like $700………I might have looked at that if he’d been on the market a bit earlier……

It is (apparently I haven’t done it) a lot easier to fit Porsche 944 discs (5x130 PCD) on a splitbus front end. I have friends in the US who do it a lot. It seems you can actually use the stock Porsche hubs and just make up new bearing spacers to get em sitting on the stub axle at the right spot. Not entirely sure what the story is with caliper brackets – but they’re probably the easiest part to make if needed. I just didn’t know how I was going to get 5x130 PCD on the back legally (without adaptors or redrilled drums) if I went this way (porsche stuff is also quite expensive here, much cheaper in the US and Europe………….)

Anyway, none of this is any good to you because the CB spindle stub axle is different to the splitbus spindle stub axle. Same length but much smaller in diameter – more beetle’ish (I have posted a photo comparing the two here somewhere…). I think you’d have to start looking at beetle disc or disc conversions and seeing if a simplish solution like different bearing spacers would get em on the CB stub axle. Beetle disc conversion with the 5X130 PCD option are around? I’d try and get the dimensional specs on the hubs and bearings for one of these and see if it looked like they could be made to work on the CB spindle stub.

kombi_kid · 2 Aug 2004, 11:11 am

looks great rob i love ya work and you are a great inspiration!!! so u gonna offer the few things needed to fit bay discs??? come on ya know ya wanna!!
cheers
rhys

sikdub · 2 Aug 2004, 4:14 pm

Phenomenal, always an interesting read Rob.
Steve

nbturbo · 3 Aug 2004, 6:09 pm

Thanks for that Rob-Were you the bloke restoring the the Kombi king and link pin stubs? Figured it wouldn't be straightforward.Will get it all stripped and get the calipers out of their pouch.

Desert Bug · 6 Aug 2004, 11:22 pm

G'day Rob,
looking good mate and I like your disc conversion but beg to differ on the Country Buggy info:- all the CB spindles I've seen are the same as 1500 Splitty ('63 to '67) except that the steering arm is at top not bottom as per Splitty, so your disc conversion should bolt straight up. Up to '70 Bay backing plates and drums also bolt straight up to CB spindles as well.
Keep up the good work,
Cheers, Ian.

splitbusaustralia · 7 Aug 2004, 7:29 am

Ian,

I've gotta admit I've never known you to be wrong. But
below is pic of splitbus stub axle (top) compared to stub axle on a CB spindle
that I rebuilt for Brad. Now unless his were one-off weird
(which is always possible given I've never known you to be wrong)
they are just not the same! Also this CB spindle is different
from a barnbus spindle in that the barnbus stub is
bigger too (55-63 bus style).

So, I dunno...........

regards

RobK

p.s. I think you should write up your trip for VWMA or Volkworld
and lay claim to the 'Oz-look' splitbus!

nbturbo · 7 Aug 2004, 10:45 am

So Rob it looks like the CB spindle would use the same bearings as a Beetle?

Desert Bug · 7 Aug 2004, 12:09 pm

Hi Rob,
Well I've got to admit that the pic shows a deffinite difference and the bottom one appears to be off a CB (top position of steering arm and 4 holes securing backing plate.
Next time I'm "down south" I'll pull mine apart and take a pic to compare (prob after Christmas).
Maybe a call to Bill Moore could clarify this.
The contacts have been made with VWMA for an article.
I don't know about laying clain to the Oz-look Slitty, I'm sure someone has done it before.
Cheers, Ian.

KruizinKombi · 7 Aug 2004, 11:41 pm

Real nice work Rob!!!

splitbusaustralia · 8 Aug 2004, 7:26 am

Thanks Col!,

You know Ian I've got a feeling the CB spindles maybe
might be Kubel, Type 82 items. I've got an ex-secret
report here from WW2 when the poms captured a kubel
and a 82e sedan and pulled em apart and measured, drew up
and photographed everything. The photos are fairly grainy
but from what I can see the spindles look very similar!

regards

RobK

Grey 57 · 8 Aug 2004, 12:46 pm

Nice work Rob, the attention to detail is incredible. Will we see it at the DOVW this year. Hope so.

BTW, I havent forgotten about the speedo. Just havent been down your way for a while.

splitbusaustralia · 13 Aug 2004, 8:04 pm

Well,

Didn't have any other people's bus work today so
I did a little more on leo. I put some more of the front
end stuff back - tie rods, shocks, pedal clusters etc.

Put him back on his wheels so I could turn him around
to IRS his rear end. Realised that I didn't have any wheel
nut to suit the later bay discs/wheels! (got
containers full of the earlier wheel bolts).
Spent two hours trying
to buy some in geelong. The couple of VW shops
left here have sporadic hours and I couldn't get any!
Unbelieavble! Held up for the sake of 6 wheel nuts!
Ended up buying 14mm nuts and grinding the bottoms
off em to make wheels nuts (I wouldn't drive on em but
they're Ok for rolling him around..). Anyway after 3 hours
of running around and stuffing about got him back on his wheels....

This pic shows the drop you get with dropped spindles.
About 3.5 inches and all suspension and steering geometry is
unchanged...

Turning leo in the turning space in front of my garage....
I'll rip his rear end out and start IRS'ing tomorrow..

As a point of interest when leo is done (around April next year) I
will take start taking other peoples busses in for rust repair/body
work and lowering etc etc....so if you'd trust me to cut on yer bus
start saving your pennies!

regards

RobK

matara · 13 Aug 2004, 8:26 pm

He's looking good Rob! Is he at standard height? Looks lowered!

Porsche wheel nuts are the same as Kombi ones if you can find them!

I might have to get you to work on my 65 Devon when it gets bad.

Cheers

Steve

type_one · 13 Aug 2004, 10:26 pm

Pardon the French Rob but you're a freak. Why does one man have so much talent? You're a talent hog. I will seriously be considering getting my old girl down to you when the time comes for rust repairs. She is in the shed just waiting for the day I say old girl it your turn. Not a cheap trip from Sydney though.

As a side note did you make the drop spindles or buy them? Either way what sort of money are we talking?

Desert Bug · 14 Aug 2004, 11:48 pm

Hi Rob, Looking good, there's plenty of wheel nuts lying around up at "The Old Volks Home". My mate Don from Tallygaroopna did a half chassis transplant from a Bay into his Desert Splitty D/cab to get irs with 1600 Kombi box, it went together very well.
Cheers, Ian.

splitbusaustralia · 15 Aug 2004, 7:15 am

Could have got to the old volks home and back in the time
it took me to sort something out too! Along with the
'Ozlook' splitbus i think you should coin the term fitting
'active rear suspension' to the ozlook splitbus - the acronym would have an aussie ring to it too!

Type One - I do dropped spindles for splitbus. $450 on your
spindles or $550 if the kingpins need reconditioning (machine
pins and make/fit/ream oversize bushes - although
I've started tracking my time fairly carefully on this stuff and the $550
will probably have to go up soon.......).....

RobK

nicko · 16 Aug 2004, 2:19 pm

Hi Rob Leo is looking fantastic. I hope you take heaps of shots of the IRS conversion because it would be interesting to see how it is done. I remember in one of your posts you said you had to unpick the spot welds on the doglegs and were wondering how you did this and what tools you used?
Cheers Nicko