castor shims for front end?

bought some aluminium (empi) castor shim for my buggy today. I am trying to figure out whether they should go under the top or bottom beam.

Any ideas?

the car is level at the mo, but I am about to jack the rear up another spline or so.

p.s also got a little Empi sticker with them. where do you reckon I should stick it? (no smart comments)
:thumb

They go under the bottom beam, to tilt the beam out at the bottom.

If you plan on doing much offroading I wouldn't use them as IMHO they weaken the attachment of the front beam.

Also, talk with your engineer. They may not be legal. :duh

Thanx mike,

got any pics of ya Zed? 🙂

pete wood wrote:got any pics of ya Zed? 🙂

Here's my Gallery on ClassicZCars.com

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=2364

Even has a couple of pictures on the buggy in as "My other ride" 🙂

GREAT ZED
is it all standard?

pete wood wrote:GREAT ZED
is it all standard?

Nah, under the hood the 2.4L has been replaced by a 2.8L out of 280ZX with triple Dels replacing the dual SU's. The Factory engine has 7K redline! Goes like stink.



Externally it looks standard. The Mags are off a 260Z as 240Z's from the factory has steel wheels. Guess it's what you'd call a sleeper.... not that it makes a good sleeper with the 2 1/2 inch exhaust and straight though stainless muffler.



I've been to several Classic car race days and no car sounds cooler than a Zed (or 6 cyl L series Datto) at 6K going down the straight. They have a unique sound, a sound that Nissan spent allot of development $ on to get into the RB series engines used in Skylines. That "Nissan Performance" sound.

[Edited on 9-9-2004 by MikeM]

Pete,

If your car had the front end raised (which i think it does) then you will not need Castor shims.

Castor shims are more required due to the change in spindle angle that the VW torsion bar design gets when it is lowered. Lowering it gives less castor, raising gives more castor. That is assuming the car stays level while raising and lowering.

Having the back higher than the front obviously reduces the castor a little. I would try to get both ends even rather than having one higher than the other.

This is a 2D line drawing showing the beam and the torsion arms and spindles at different suspension heights, shown by the different colours. You can clearly see how the castor changes through suspension travel, even when the beam is kept in the same plane.

so by raising the back more, the castor angle will get back to near standard?

p.s. it's alittle low in th back now anyway, so it needs to go up some.😉

lower tube and make sure you have them in the center of the tube or radius of the tube otherwise they wont give any extra camber

nic pic Wes.

"... castor shims ... slip behind the lower torsion-tube against the chassis frame-head and are sandwiched in place as the suspension is bolted up using longer than stock high tensile bolts..."
from page 32 of the SpeedPro book How to Modify Volkswagen Beetle suspension, Brakes & Chassis for High Performance, by James Hale

The standard bolts are quite long enough...
I really don't know why the longer bolts are supplied....

the shims are only 10-15mm thick --
[from an old worn out memory] 🙂🙂