Jak Rizzo ·
.
Aussieveedubbers · Non-VW Engine Conversions
It\'s all stock.......................
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/29154/its-all-stock
Jak Rizzo ·
.
billholmes ·
It's not coming up.
billholmes ·
It's working now.
What a beast of a car and the engine.
What motor is that?
What a beast of a car and the engine.
What motor is that?
matara ·
Jak
Looks like a Subi sump poking out underneath, and twin cam pulleys either side.
Is it an STi motor?
Steve
Looks like a Subi sump poking out underneath, and twin cam pulleys either side.
Is it an STi motor?
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
It's just an EJ20T out of a wrx. It will be running an air to air intercooler in the wing & the aftermarket computer is a Microtech LTX8. The radiator in the front is from a Holden Camira which is a sealed unit with 2 thermo fans on it in a sealed compartment where the spare wheel used to be. Couple more weeks & it should be on the road. Can't wait!
regards
Jak
regards
Jak
Jeza ·
Jak
Any pics of your radiator set up?
Exciting stuff 😎
Cheers
Jeremy
Any pics of your radiator set up?
Exciting stuff 😎
Cheers
Jeremy
lugnuts ·
Hi Jak,wheve bin hangin for some pics,lookin good,can u tell me a few things,is the rear valance removable?your not going to use the cam covers?and lastly where are u going to mount your bumpers too?:beerJak Rizzo wrote:.
Baja Wes ·
Jak,
Good to see your turn to the dark-side coming along nicely 🙂
Looks very nice.
Good to see your turn to the dark-side coming along nicely 🙂
Looks very nice.
seagull ·
welcome to the other side :vader
vw54 ·
Looks good Jack some more power for the race track...
I suspose its still flat 4 you carnt complain about the hp thats for sure.
I suspose its still flat 4 you carnt complain about the hp thats for sure.
boof2332 ·
Once you are consumed by the dark side forever will it controll your destiny...
No where near enough metal missing though.
Biffej20t
No where near enough metal missing though.
Biffej20t
seagull ·
Jak , what is the off set on the front wheels please , seagull
wacked1 ·
hi!
nice!
welcome!
nice!
welcome!
Jak Rizzo ·
The initial conversation went like this, "Matt, Paul & I are going Subaru", "Yeh F&%k it, I'll do it too"............a few weeks later we had 3 subaru donks delivered to our doors.
Michael, The rear valance isn't removable at the moment but I think that it will be easier if if I do make it so. I still have all the bumber bar brackets so that I can run a rear bumper. Then I can put the cam covers on as well.
Jez, I'll have some pics soon of the radiator setup & the one piece pipes that run almost from engine to radiator.
As for the power? The LTX8 comes setup with the standard settings for the rexxy engine, 11 pounds boost & really rich , just like from the factory. I plan to run it conservatively & get used to the power, I'm quite happy to detune it for a while until I feel comfortable with it.
Funnily enough, the Porsche club are all for it, they can't wait for me to finish it! They tell me that porsche designed the wrx engine & that vw own the patent to it??? Is that really true?? makes for a god yarn anyway.
Neil, the wheels are 17 x 7.5 with a 35et offset, they fit really snugly but 17 x 7 with a 42et offset would be even better. Thats under standard guards.
Hopefully I'll have the intercooler setup finished tommorrow.
regards
Jak
Michael, The rear valance isn't removable at the moment but I think that it will be easier if if I do make it so. I still have all the bumber bar brackets so that I can run a rear bumper. Then I can put the cam covers on as well.
Jez, I'll have some pics soon of the radiator setup & the one piece pipes that run almost from engine to radiator.
As for the power? The LTX8 comes setup with the standard settings for the rexxy engine, 11 pounds boost & really rich , just like from the factory. I plan to run it conservatively & get used to the power, I'm quite happy to detune it for a while until I feel comfortable with it.
Funnily enough, the Porsche club are all for it, they can't wait for me to finish it! They tell me that porsche designed the wrx engine & that vw own the patent to it??? Is that really true?? makes for a god yarn anyway.
Neil, the wheels are 17 x 7.5 with a 35et offset, they fit really snugly but 17 x 7 with a 42et offset would be even better. Thats under standard guards.
Hopefully I'll have the intercooler setup finished tommorrow.
regards
Jak
555bug ·
how far forward did you end up going in the super?
seagull ·
thank you
Jak Rizzo ·
2 inches forward. Anymore than that & it's major reconstruction time, Up until a few days ago it was still my daily driver, I've had a stock engine in the rear for about 4 weeks now while I've done all the radiator setup & pipes etc, it's now off the road for the final stages. Ultimatly a full body off resto would be ideal but time constraints are a big factor as I need the car for work.
regards
Jak
regards
Jak
seagull ·
so I had better get the fuel pot over in the next week .
Jak Rizzo ·
Do u mean a fuel surge tank Neil? I ended up buying one as I didn't know if u made them too. Matt said that the swirl pots arrived though?
regards
Jak
regards
Jak
Alex Holzl ·
hey jak
ya got it in there quick! we hav a while before the next porsche club track day! ya still gonna track it?
alex
ya got it in there quick! we hav a while before the next porsche club track day! ya still gonna track it?
alex
555bug ·
cool Jak I think there must be some more room in the supers 🙂 i can't wait to see it. I think will all the Suby powered bugs in progress we should organise a get together in a couple of years where we can compare notes,
Craig Torrens ·
looking good Jak.........................don't approve !!:repuke............but at least you are doing what you want ..........and you are having fun😉
So when will it hit the track?
So when will it hit the track?
seagull ·
I only sent one fuel pot to Matt as my bead blaster was on loan to a mate for a job .I can make just about any thing .If you need one like I made Matt just drop me a line , neil
restocal ·
{admin - deleted contents as user cannot read}
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by Baja Wes]
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by Baja Wes]
Jak Rizzo ·
Craig Torrens wrote:looking good Jak.........................don't approve !!:repuke
Sorry Pumkin, wasn't thinking of u...........
Jak Rizzo ·
Let me guess, your that guy that spends hours at a swap meet haggling for that rusty peice of 1200cc cylinder head tinware.restocal wrote:Subaru engine,
Holden radiator,
Ford brakes,
Ford wheels,
Porsche seats,
Ford or Holden paint colour?
Mate I think you should be on a different forum.
I'm just trying my hardest to disassociatte myself with guys like u, almost there....
Jak
Baja Wes ·
Restocal,
if you had read the sticky posts at the start of this forum, you would have seen where I said
if you had read the sticky posts at the start of this forum, you would have seen where I said
Jak is in the correct sub-forum, you are not. Unfortunately my admin options allow me to ban you from nothing or everything. So for now I can't ban you from this sub-forum like I want to. But if you post another similar post here, I might just ban you from everything.I just thought I would inform people that if they are going to come over to this section, and rip on people for their conversion ideas, I will delete or modify the contents of their post.
If you are such a wanker that you read and post in the conversion section even though you don't like conversions, then I don't see why I shouldn't take action.
Craig Torrens ·
are the WRX motors secondhand or new ?
Do you need to do any mods to the internals of the gearbox?
Do you need to do any mods to the internals of the gearbox?
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
Looking good. Wish I was as advanced as you.
Steve
Looking good. Wish I was as advanced as you.
Steve
Jenny ·
Jak, nice work and the wheels look great.
Is this going to be purely a race car or will you get it approved/registered for road use?
Is this going to be purely a race car or will you get it approved/registered for road use?
Jak Rizzo ·
This is my true daily driver, I'm hoping to have it all finished in the next couple of weeks although I'm sure there will be a few snags along the way as with all projects.
I'm finding it a little difficult driving my wifes Holden Vectra around ..........................having withdrawel symptoms at the moment with no vw to drive
Jak
I'm finding it a little difficult driving my wifes Holden Vectra around ..........................having withdrawel symptoms at the moment with no vw to drive
Jak
555bug ·
three cheers for restocal (spanker ) keep up the progress shots 🙂
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
Do you have any shots looking down on the motor in the engine bay?
Steve
Do you have any shots looking down on the motor in the engine bay?
Steve
boof2332 ·
Full steam ahead.....where are Pauls Pics???
Steve, all the motors were second hand..
I like the support we are giving each other with the projects....can only encourage more people to take on things they once thought were too difficult or not possible....NICE WORK.
Matt
Steve, all the motors were second hand..
I like the support we are giving each other with the projects....can only encourage more people to take on things they once thought were too difficult or not possible....NICE WORK.
Matt
gayanne ·
I just love it unreal Jako keep going.JVLRacing I have as well!
humpty ·
Brilliant Jak....Keep it up. Be interesting to see how she handles after the transformation?
By brothers Notch is a little taily when pushed, but he has done little to the rear suspension other than gas koni's and crap tyres! On the open road it rides well and sure has some poke...Imagine it with tighter ratios...Absolute rocket. Now if Marks Notch with a (maybe)12 year old RS donk, does high 12's with stock ratios and crap tyres, what do you reckon a bug will do with a late model REX donk?
And Craig T....I sold the visor on the weekend! Sorry 'bout that!
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by humpty]
By brothers Notch is a little taily when pushed, but he has done little to the rear suspension other than gas koni's and crap tyres! On the open road it rides well and sure has some poke...Imagine it with tighter ratios...Absolute rocket. Now if Marks Notch with a (maybe)12 year old RS donk, does high 12's with stock ratios and crap tyres, what do you reckon a bug will do with a late model REX donk?
And Craig T....I sold the visor on the weekend! Sorry 'bout that!
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by humpty]
seagull ·
I have seen the tyres they are CRAP ! I would like to see the notch against the toyota at my place ( drag any one ) controlled area ect 🙂
seagull ·
O i need to sort the diff first , go to( tims corolla page on the web )search required , its the same as that > all for $2500.00
O sorry to post my bit here Jak , admin can clear it if they wish , I cool with that 😎
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by seagull]
O sorry to post my bit here Jak , admin can clear it if they wish , I cool with that 😎
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by seagull]
exwrx ·
Congatulations on the progress to date.
A couple of observations/questions from a noob.
Is there no way of avoiding cutting the firewall? I am thinking that it would be a lot easier from an engineering approval perspective if the firewall is left intact.
The rear apron looks like its in the way. It might be worth investigating the possibility of welding it to the guards and making the whole lot removeable with dzus fasteners or similar. This would make access to components a lot easier, but I am not sure if this affects structural rigidity.
Also, that sump looks like its pretty low to the ground. Are you intending to modify it at all?
Apologies for the questions, I am just trying to get as many uncertainties out of the way as I can for my own project, and hopefully these questions are occurring to others also.
Keep the progress shots coming. It will be worth it all when you give those porsches something to remember :beer
A couple of observations/questions from a noob.
Is there no way of avoiding cutting the firewall? I am thinking that it would be a lot easier from an engineering approval perspective if the firewall is left intact.
The rear apron looks like its in the way. It might be worth investigating the possibility of welding it to the guards and making the whole lot removeable with dzus fasteners or similar. This would make access to components a lot easier, but I am not sure if this affects structural rigidity.
Also, that sump looks like its pretty low to the ground. Are you intending to modify it at all?
Apologies for the questions, I am just trying to get as many uncertainties out of the way as I can for my own project, and hopefully these questions are occurring to others also.
Keep the progress shots coming. It will be worth it all when you give those porsches something to remember :beer
wacked1 ·
thats funnyrestocal wrote:{admin - deleted contents as user cannot read}
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by Baja Wes]
wrong forum
cheers jak
are you Maltese by any chance?
Jak Rizzo ·
There is no way of avoiding cutting the firewall, even without moving the gearbox forward 2 inches like I have u still have the intake pipe to consider, even if u turned the manifold around I think that it still would have to go. With that in mind, I have cut mine the bare miniumum, all the others that I have seen have just taken the whole lot away.exwrx wrote:Congatulations on the progress to date.
A couple of observations/questions from a noob.
Is there no way of avoiding cutting the firewall? I am thinking that it would be a lot easier from an engineering approval perspective if the firewall is left intact.
The rear apron looks like its in the way. It might be worth investigating the possibility of welding it to the guards and making the whole lot removeable with dzus fasteners or similar. This would make access to components a lot easier, but I am not sure if this affects structural rigidity.
Also, that sump looks like its pretty low to the ground. Are you intending to modify it at all?
Apologies for the questions, I am just trying to get as many uncertainties out of the way as I can for my own project, and hopefully these questions are occurring to others also.
Keep the progress shots coming. It will be worth it all when you give those porsches something to remember :beer
Yes I think that it would be easier to have the apron removable, especially with respects to getting the engine in & out, I want to keep all the rear bumper as stock so I didn't cut all the bumper brackets away. I will make it removable later on.
The sump will only be shortened 2 inches, thats about the same depth as the oil filter, also , the wrx engine only carries 4.5 litres of oil so I don't want to decrease the capacity to much. Wonder if a Berg wide sump would fit on...............LOL
If u like, email me as I have heaps of pics from other cars from around the world , I hassled the owners with questions for months before I even bought anything for the conversion.
I'm more than happy to help u out.
regards
Jak
Jak Rizzo ·
Nah mate, I'm as fardinkum meat pie eating vb drinking skippy aussie as anyone else out there......................just my parents are Pastizzi eating Maltese.wacked1 wrote:thats funnyrestocal wrote:{admin - deleted contents as user cannot read}
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by Baja Wes]
wrong forum
cheers jak
are you Maltese by any chance?
regards
Jak (Joseph Savious) Rizzo:thumb
Jak Rizzo ·
Radiator setup sitting in a sub-frame thats welded into the spare wheel well, there will be a cover over the radiator so it will be a sealed unit, the battery & swirl pott sits behind the sub-frame.
The air that comes through opening in the apron has no where to go but through the radiator, it has a Davies Craig on the front pushing through & a fan on the back sucking air through. We'll see how well it works.
Jak
[Edited on 28-9-2004 by Jak Rizzo]
The air that comes through opening in the apron has no where to go but through the radiator, it has a Davies Craig on the front pushing through & a fan on the back sucking air through. We'll see how well it works.
Jak
[Edited on 28-9-2004 by Jak Rizzo]
Jak Rizzo ·
1.5 inch mild stainless pipes that go pretty much all the way.
Jak
Jak
Jak Rizzo ·
2.5 inch muffler, but it's not a straight through like on the beetle engine, this is going to be really quiet (hopefully) I also have some 90degree mandrel bends to make up the exhaust. It will also finish out the centre of the apron as before.
regards
Jak
regards
Jak
Jeza ·
Forgive my ignorance, but what is a "Davies Craig" I looked it up on google and they seem to do a lot of radiator type products.Jak Rizzo wrote:The air that comes through opening in the apron has no where to go but through the radiator, it has a Davies Craig on the front pushing through & a fan on the back sucking air through.
A query re the airflow Jak. Once the air is pushed thru the radiator where are you encouraging it out? Through he back of the spare wheel well?
Looks great. Very nicely engineered 😉
CU
Jeremy
speedster356 ·
You going to do the cam belts? I just did mine doing the rebuild.
Like the s/s tube bending.
The first round of the Porsche supersprint is going to be a Subi fest......
The car will be quiet, I watched the footage from Wakefield park on the Friday and as my car went past at full pelt it sounded so quiet with just the 3" pipe and muffler, it was almost too quiet!
[Edited on 28-9-2004 by speedster356]
Like the s/s tube bending.
The first round of the Porsche supersprint is going to be a Subi fest......
The car will be quiet, I watched the footage from Wakefield park on the Friday and as my car went past at full pelt it sounded so quiet with just the 3" pipe and muffler, it was almost too quiet!
[Edited on 28-9-2004 by speedster356]
seagull ·
well done , now to get me a subaru wrx donk
lugnuts ·
Donk,donk does anybody else in the world say that accept aussies,i think ile just sit on the fence with the other gallahs and wait for the GURUs to finish the R&D.:duhseagull wrote:well done , now to get me a subaru wrx donk
Jenny ·
Jeza, I think Davies Craig is the brand of thermo fan Jak's put on the front of the radiator.
I've never heard of anyone fitting fans front & back on a radiator. Unless thay are matched CFM I would think that one would impead the other?
I've never heard of anyone fitting fans front & back on a radiator. Unless thay are matched CFM I would think that one would impead the other?
Baja Wes ·
google must suck.Jeza wrote:Forgive my ignorance, but what is a "Davies Craig" I looked it up on google and they seem to do a lot of radiator type products.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/
I've never seen a fan front and back either.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I used to run an Audi 100 fan behind mine but the motor was so big it stuck out the back, it would blow dust & leaves everywhere when it came on, I now have a huge V8 style Davies Craig fan and it only blow a gentle breeze in comparison. Im not sure how 2 fan will go either.
Steve
I used to run an Audi 100 fan behind mine but the motor was so big it stuck out the back, it would blow dust & leaves everywhere when it came on, I now have a huge V8 style Davies Craig fan and it only blow a gentle breeze in comparison. Im not sure how 2 fan will go either.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
Well I got the fans , radiator, header tanks etc all for nothing so it's a pretty cheap experiment. Both fans are switched independently, so I'll be able to see which works the best, whatever doesn't I can just take off, pretty simple I think. This conclusion came after speaking to 3 different radiator specialists after telling them the application.
Like I said, it hasn't cost me a cent.
Jak
Like I said, it hasn't cost me a cent.
Jak
Baja Wes ·
I'm all for a good experiment 😀
Jak Rizzo ·
I have a few more things done, header tank from a Toyota Corolla sits neatly in the engine bay, water pipes are all bolted on for the last time, I've also changed my mind about the air to air intercooler in the wing, it just won't get enough air to cool it there, instead I've gone for a Subaru water to air intercooler setup, this also gets rid of all the piping & brackets that I had to make. It comes with the water pump, header tank & a coolant level warning sensor. I think that I'll use another bigger header tank for it though as I have 2 small radiators for the intercooler, one up front & one in the back just before it comes back into the intercooler, probably a bit of an overkill but I want to be sure that intake temps will be cool on the track under boost for periods of time.
Jak
Jak
Jak Rizzo ·
I've also made the rear apron removable as well, sooo much easier getting the engine in & out.
Jak
Jak
wacked1 ·
it's looking fine jak, just a simple question why did you opt for stainless instead of copper pipes?Jak Rizzo wrote:1.5 inch mild stainless pipes that go pretty much all the way.
Jak
only reason i ask is all the bus guys seem to run copper pipes.
cheers
wacked1
seagull ·
this is the set up in my trike , my mate made me a custom radiator runs a singel thermo fan the rad is about 600mm long x 380mm in height .its a three row unit .
The motor is a ej20 ( not turbo )
Sorry to rob your post jak , just gives others some ideas .
I have a bleed of on the top this goes back to my fill pot at the rear ( motor ) end .
[Edited on 30-9-2004 by seagull]
[Edited on 30-9-2004 by seagull]
The motor is a ej20 ( not turbo )
Sorry to rob your post jak , just gives others some ideas .
I have a bleed of on the top this goes back to my fill pot at the rear ( motor ) end .
[Edited on 30-9-2004 by seagull]
[Edited on 30-9-2004 by seagull]
Jak Rizzo ·
I went for the Stainless as it's what my muffler guy had on the shelf, he doesn't do copper & once again I got it for an extremely good price.
Jak
Jak
555bug ·
there are issue will alloy engines and copper pipes something to do with electrolysis (dunno much more) you can pick up stainless for like 60~70 a length is you know where to look and as a benefit there are no problems with perishing the block or piping 🙂
Andy42 ·
I am going to be using the water to air Subi intercooler on my buggy and was told the original electric water pump for this will not be good enough to pump water to the front on the car. Well at least not for long. It was recomended I get a davis craig water pump as used for normal radiater cooling and cut back the voltage to the pump as aparently that is an acceptable thing to do with those pumps. it was also advised to run a boost pump in the cooling line to help out the radiater as well on the normal engine cooling
Andy42 ·
For cooling pipe stainless is by far the best way to go unless you have the money to fork out so you can use hydraulic lines but this will hurt the bank account compared to the stainless tubing
Jak Rizzo ·
Its a bugger Andy, depending on who u speak to everything is no good & everything is the best. I've found this with everything that I've bought for the conversion so far. The water pump that came with the intercooler is a big mutha, maybe it's from a different make of car? I was going to buy a new one anyway from Subaru, as on the Liberty forums they tend to think they are OK, the bearings die eventually but apparently it costs $8 to fix. May be a Davies craig aftermarket one is the way to go.Andy42 wrote:I am going to be using the water to air Subi intercooler on my buggy and was told the original electric water pump for this will not be good enough to pump water to the front on the car. Well at least not for long. It was recomended I get a davis craig water pump as used for normal radiater cooling and cut back the voltage to the pump as aparently that is an acceptable thing to do with those pumps. it was also advised to run a boost pump in the cooling line to help out the radiater as well on the normal engine cooling
regards
Jak
Jenny ·
555bug,
I think you would have similar problems with the stainless pipe as you would have with the copper pipe.
The trick is to insulate the dissimilar metals from each other and common earth. Eg use rubber to join them and insulate the long copper /stainless tubes from the chassis.
I think you would have similar problems with the stainless pipe as you would have with the copper pipe.
The trick is to insulate the dissimilar metals from each other and common earth. Eg use rubber to join them and insulate the long copper /stainless tubes from the chassis.
Andy42 ·
Yeh ya not wrong with everyone having a different version on what is best but basically we are just going to over engineer everything we can on my buggy as it is better to have something that works to good rather then not good enough. Of course this can be a bit hard on the pocket. As for alloy and stainless together they are fine. Obvious things like making sure you run good coolent and not straight water is important but that goes without saying when it comes to alloy motors or heads.
gayanne ·
Hey Jako and all,A standard water pump will work fine running the water from the front to the back.Just remember the longer the distance of water travel the cooler the water becomes.Proof in the puddingJVLRacing.
wacked1 ·
yes standard water pump in my bus works fine
humpty ·
The standard Subi water pump has worked fine for over 5 years in our RS powered Notch.....No cooling problems in VERY hot WA summers. If anything, it doesn't get hot enough!!.....Stick with the standard pump....Test it out. Upgrade if you have too...Sofar we have not seen a need! Granted....We don't do sprints like you guys are, but on the road and at the drags, she works a treat.
RobvB ·
Jak, what does the surgetank setup look like ?
What did you use for a low pressure fuelpump ? Does it have a return line as well ?
Did you create a new pickup in the fuel tank ?
The reason I ask is that I think the pickup is too small for my EJ25, and I'm thinking about installing a surgetank to make sure I have fuel when autoX'ing.
Thanks,
Rob.
What did you use for a low pressure fuelpump ? Does it have a return line as well ?
Did you create a new pickup in the fuel tank ?
The reason I ask is that I think the pickup is too small for my EJ25, and I'm thinking about installing a surgetank to make sure I have fuel when autoX'ing.
Thanks,
Rob.
Jak Rizzo ·
Hi Rob,
The fuel tank has a bigger outlet, this then goes into a filter, then into a low pressure electric fuel pump, that fills the 1.5 litre surge pot, it then proceeds the Holden VL Turbo fuel pump, hard lines go from this to the engine & back again through the tunnel back to the surge pot. Thats pretty much it.
regards
Jak
The fuel tank has a bigger outlet, this then goes into a filter, then into a low pressure electric fuel pump, that fills the 1.5 litre surge pot, it then proceeds the Holden VL Turbo fuel pump, hard lines go from this to the engine & back again through the tunnel back to the surge pot. Thats pretty much it.
regards
Jak
boof2332 ·
Does the return line go into the swirl pot or back to the main tank. I thought the return line from the pot was an overflow back to the pump seperate to the return line from the regulator.
I suppose they could meet and go in as one using tpiece...
Am I wrong? This is how mine was going to be done, I saw it on one of the diagrams on the post regarding surge tanks.
Matt
[Edited on 12-10-2004 by boof2332]
I suppose they could meet and go in as one using tpiece...
Am I wrong? This is how mine was going to be done, I saw it on one of the diagrams on the post regarding surge tanks.
Matt
[Edited on 12-10-2004 by boof2332]
Baja Wes ·
jak, your surge tank must also have a return line to the main tank.
If you don't you'll have two problems,
1 - the low pressure pump will pressurize the surge tank; and
2 - the HP fuel circulating from the surge tank, thru the hot fuel rail back to the surge tank will get hot (from the fuel rail not the pumping). This will eventually cause fuel vaporisation in the surge tank. I had this problem, took 30min for the fuel to get hot enough but it happen.
Now my low pressure pump pumps to the surge tank, and then most of it (excess) returns back to the main tank. This keeps the surge and main tank at the same temp and give the fuel a bigger area to cool through.
If you don't you'll have two problems,
1 - the low pressure pump will pressurize the surge tank; and
2 - the HP fuel circulating from the surge tank, thru the hot fuel rail back to the surge tank will get hot (from the fuel rail not the pumping). This will eventually cause fuel vaporisation in the surge tank. I had this problem, took 30min for the fuel to get hot enough but it happen.
Now my low pressure pump pumps to the surge tank, and then most of it (excess) returns back to the main tank. This keeps the surge and main tank at the same temp and give the fuel a bigger area to cool through.
Jak Rizzo ·
It does, it has 4 outlets, one being back to the fuel tank.
Jak
Jak
Baja Wes ·
ok. just clarifying for those looking for ideas. Same set-up as mine essentially, but I got an internal pump and you got an external pump.
pete wood ·
Hey Rob,
sorry to highjak the post Jak..
my surge tank is about 600ml and with the VL turbo pump the engine is never short of fuel. Also, as Wes as suggested, the return line to the tank is the right thing. Mine is an overflow coming out of the top of the tank.
BTW, does anyone have a Bosch catalog/model number for the VL turbo pump?
It'd be really useful so people outside OZ could check if it's readily available overseas. It's probably a comonly used model.
sorry to highjak the post Jak..
my surge tank is about 600ml and with the VL turbo pump the engine is never short of fuel. Also, as Wes as suggested, the return line to the tank is the right thing. Mine is an overflow coming out of the top of the tank.
BTW, does anyone have a Bosch catalog/model number for the VL turbo pump?
It'd be really useful so people outside OZ could check if it's readily available overseas. It's probably a comonly used model.
boof2332 ·
I have the box for the pump at the house where the car is ..I will look tomorrow.
matt
matt
Euro_67 ·
Jak, looking good. I was led to believe the EJ20 was too wide to fit in a beetle rear without huge modifications to the rear innerguards and bumber brackets, etc. I was looking at a similar conversion into a '76 beetle years ago but was told to look at the EA82 based on physial size. Could you please post some pics of how you have done this. You have just inspired me to rethink the whole affordable power in a VW theory. I have my wifes 68 semi auto and an angle grinder.......and too much time on my hands !
Thanks,
Wayne.
Thanks,
Wayne.
Jeza ·
Wayne
Check out Jaks links to photos he's put on the samba from here:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=79556
Jak
You mention somewhere about fitting the new fuel line down the tunnel. I'm thinking of doing the same, any tips? How did you secure it?
Cheers
Jeremy
Check out Jaks links to photos he's put on the samba from here:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=79556
Jak
You mention somewhere about fitting the new fuel line down the tunnel. I'm thinking of doing the same, any tips? How did you secure it?
Cheers
Jeremy
1303Steve ·
Hi
Regarding cooling pipe marterial, I used a mixture of copper, stainless & mild steel. When I pulled my car apart the rubber hoses that contacted copper seemd to have grown onto the pipes where as the stainless & mild steel ones the hoses just slid of nicley.
Speaking of sliding hoses, after the car has run a few times, go around and check the tightness of all the clamps, they will be lose. I found a handy way to prevent hoses from sliding was to put a dab of weld on the pipe near where clamp will be or drill the pipe and fit some pop rivets.
Steve
Regarding cooling pipe marterial, I used a mixture of copper, stainless & mild steel. When I pulled my car apart the rubber hoses that contacted copper seemd to have grown onto the pipes where as the stainless & mild steel ones the hoses just slid of nicley.
Speaking of sliding hoses, after the car has run a few times, go around and check the tightness of all the clamps, they will be lose. I found a handy way to prevent hoses from sliding was to put a dab of weld on the pipe near where clamp will be or drill the pipe and fit some pop rivets.
Steve
pete wood ·
good call steve,
I blew the top hose off on full throttle the second time I had the car warmed up properly. Lucky it was a few houses up the road from home. My mate said it looked much more serious than just a hose, but we turned it off and let it cool and everything was fine.
Wouldn't have wanted it to happen on the freeway though...🙁
I blew the top hose off on full throttle the second time I had the car warmed up properly. Lucky it was a few houses up the road from home. My mate said it looked much more serious than just a hose, but we turned it off and let it cool and everything was fine.
Wouldn't have wanted it to happen on the freeway though...🙁
Doug Sweetman ·
The really trick way to stop this happening is to find an exhaust shop / body shop that can roll an edge at the end of the pipe (kinda like the barbs on a hose barb connection).
That way when you have tightened up the hose clamp, it physically cannot come off unless you stretch the clamp !
Might be trickier to do with the thicker lines though...
That way when you have tightened up the hose clamp, it physically cannot come off unless you stretch the clamp !
Might be trickier to do with the thicker lines though...
seagull ·
you get a ring ( machine a ring ) then spot weld this to the pipe , works for me !:beer
Baja Wes ·
I just beat a flare on the end of my pipes with a ball pene hammer. If your careful you can make it quite neat looking.Doug Sweetman wrote:The really trick way to stop this happening is to find an exhaust shop / body shop that can roll an edge at the end of the pipe (kinda like the barbs on a hose barb connection).
That way when you have tightened up the hose clamp, it physically cannot come off unless you stretch the clamp !
Might be trickier to do with the thicker lines though...
humpty ·
So Jak......
How's it going?
Any more lures to throw out to us meer mortals?
How's it going?
Any more lures to throw out to us meer mortals?
Jak Rizzo ·
Water is in, oil is in, muffler system is made, it's all wired up..................................need petrol, ran out of time yesterday....................don't worry Simon, u will be among the first to know!!!!!!!
regards
Jak
PS even sounds tough just spinning on the starter motor!
regards
Jak
PS even sounds tough just spinning on the starter motor!
Brad ·
So how are your water pipes insulated from you car ? With Wes's V6 he had issues with the stainless pipe touching earth. It seems the radiator water carries a charge which creates issues where the stainless touches earth. ( issues with alloy parts not stainless ones)
My research has lead me to believe that either alloy or rubber was the best option. Alloy will cool best but rubber will be stronger. When we weighed it all up including time and ease of fit we went with gates hydraulic hose, no bends, easy to run and you can fasten it to anything without issue. Will be interested to see how yours holds up if it is touching earth.
What plans have you got with your Speed sensor ?
Cheers and keep up the good work.
My research has lead me to believe that either alloy or rubber was the best option. Alloy will cool best but rubber will be stronger. When we weighed it all up including time and ease of fit we went with gates hydraulic hose, no bends, easy to run and you can fasten it to anything without issue. Will be interested to see how yours holds up if it is touching earth.
What plans have you got with your Speed sensor ?
Cheers and keep up the good work.
Baja Wes ·
I mentioned that in the 10+page EJ20 post
here is the galvanic series;
http://www.corrprev.org.au/Galvanic.htm
The further two metals are apart, the worse they are together. The more negative material becomes the anode, and is corroded. The anode material tries to migrate onto the cathode.
I'm sure we all know aluminium head / cast iron block cars have problems with corrosion with poor quality coolant. Well that gives the following;
aluminium: -0.76 to -1.00
steel / cast iron: -0.60 to -0.72
So that gives a potential range of -0.04 to -0.4 trying to make them corrode.
Now we look at aluminium and stainless steel (passivated 316 pipes are fancy, but bad);
aluminium: -0.76 to -1.00
316 SS passive: 0.00 to -0.10
So that gives a potential range of -0.66 to -1.00 trying to make them corrode. Much much worse than the traditional cast iron block alloy head engines.
So you can see why new car manufacturers use plastic and rubber pipes.
Theoretically if your radiator fluid is good enough it won't matter, but it's probably best not to test how good your fluid is.Stainless steel itself is a noble metal, as it it doesn't like to corrode. That simply makes it a fantastic cathode. It therefore tries to use other metals as an anode. This is galvanic corrosion.
There is a thing called a galvanic series. surf the net and you will find it.
The further two metals are apart in the series, the worse they will react with each other in the presence of an electrolite. Stainless steel and aluminium are further apart than steel and aluminium.
So stainless steel radiator pipes will try to corrode your aluminium engine. This will happen if your aluminium engine and stainless pipes have a common earth, and your not using the most expensive radiator fluid you can buy.
I have rubber mounted my stainless radiator pipes from touching anything but the rubber radiator hoses (they don't touch the chassis or body). This should keep the galvanic circuit open and stop the corrosion.
When my last radiator died, it was corroded from salt water on the outside so that was the obvious cause of death. But I did wonder if the stainless pipes were earthing somewhere and adding to the problem, as stainless will also try to corrode normal steel (my radiator) via galvanic corrosion.
here is the galvanic series;
http://www.corrprev.org.au/Galvanic.htm
The further two metals are apart, the worse they are together. The more negative material becomes the anode, and is corroded. The anode material tries to migrate onto the cathode.
I'm sure we all know aluminium head / cast iron block cars have problems with corrosion with poor quality coolant. Well that gives the following;
aluminium: -0.76 to -1.00
steel / cast iron: -0.60 to -0.72
So that gives a potential range of -0.04 to -0.4 trying to make them corrode.
Now we look at aluminium and stainless steel (passivated 316 pipes are fancy, but bad);
aluminium: -0.76 to -1.00
316 SS passive: 0.00 to -0.10
So that gives a potential range of -0.66 to -1.00 trying to make them corrode. Much much worse than the traditional cast iron block alloy head engines.
So you can see why new car manufacturers use plastic and rubber pipes.
seagull ·
Wes your a champ ,I buy you a :beer one day good read , seagull
Jak Rizzo ·
Started it up last night, ran first key turn, sounds amazing!
I'll take it for a drive today.
regards
Jak
I'll take it for a drive today.
regards
Jak
reub ·
Let me be the first to congratulate you. Your trasformation to the darkside is almost complete 😀
Can't wait to turn the key of mine again.....
Can't wait to turn the key of mine again.....
gayanne ·
Jako Darth Vader is now taking you under his wing,welcome.JVLracing
gayanne ·
Jako Darth Vader is now taking you under his wing,welcome.JVLracing
gayanne ·
Jako Darth Vader is now taking you under his wing,welcome.JVLracing
gayanne ·
Jako Darth Vader is now taking you under his wing,welcome.JVLracing
gayanne ·
Jako Darth Vader is now taking you under his wing,welcome.JVLracing
pete wood ·
gayanne, I think your brain CD is skipping...:thumb
Craig Torrens ·
How was the first drive...........................don't leave us in suspense !!Jak Rizzo wrote:Started it up last night, ran first key turn, sounds amazing!
I'll take it for a drive today.
regards
Jak
Jenny ·
Ditto what Craig said 🙂
boof2332 ·
I spoke to Jak yesterday and it had no power due to the throttle position sensor needing calibrating. He had some guy bringing over the hand held unit to do it.
Said it sounded awesome on idle!
Matt
Said it sounded awesome on idle!
Matt
Alex Holzl ·
Hey jak when do ya think youll be on the track!!???
[Edited on 6-11-2004 by Alex Holzl]
[Edited on 6-11-2004 by Alex Holzl]
Craig Torrens ·
???????
555bug ·
where is the video and audio of it running???? we need more info 🙂 and lots more pictures
Craig Torrens ·
c'mon Jak, you're killing us !
koolkarmakombi ·
I reckon he is past Ceduna now and still grinning 😀 😀
kkk
kkk
DIY-DUB ·
my 2c this would b sweeet id love 2 b able 2 do this kinda stuff but dont have all the skills and tools and id like 2 say i did it all by myself
Jak Rizzo ·
*****
Finally got to have a drive last night, Scott from FOR/DRIVE on the coast here who does conversions, came over & tuned the computer with the handset, set all the mixtures etc in about 30 seconds, he obviously plays a lot of Playstation! I also had No.1 & No.3 coil packs on the wrong way, so all this time it had been on 2 cylinders. Also, I had wired up the TPS as per the Subaru manual rather then the Microtech manual, hence it wouldn't idle without the bumpstop wound up a little. It's all sorted now , Paul & I went for 4 laps around my block, second gear, plant it, hear the turbo make a sucking sound & then the thing just takes off! After the first run, Paul says, "Do it again" 3 laps later I decide to put it back in the garage, we got out looked at each other, I said to Paul," your shaking" he replied, "So are u". "What have we done"? We just stood there just looking at the motor. It's an all stock $850 wrx engine & it was the single most scariest thing that I had ever driven, even with 6ft + 100kg Paul in the car it was ballistic!
The tourqe was amazing, I'll be quite happy to detune some boost out of just so that I can get used to driving it again, for the rest of u guys doing this conversion, u are in for the ride of your life when u finish!
Hopefully the engineer will get over to my place this week & I can get it all sorted.
regards
Jak
{Post edited to promote peace and love... 🙂 }
[Edited on 11-11-2004 by Baja Wes]
Finally got to have a drive last night, Scott from FOR/DRIVE on the coast here who does conversions, came over & tuned the computer with the handset, set all the mixtures etc in about 30 seconds, he obviously plays a lot of Playstation! I also had No.1 & No.3 coil packs on the wrong way, so all this time it had been on 2 cylinders. Also, I had wired up the TPS as per the Subaru manual rather then the Microtech manual, hence it wouldn't idle without the bumpstop wound up a little. It's all sorted now , Paul & I went for 4 laps around my block, second gear, plant it, hear the turbo make a sucking sound & then the thing just takes off! After the first run, Paul says, "Do it again" 3 laps later I decide to put it back in the garage, we got out looked at each other, I said to Paul," your shaking" he replied, "So are u". "What have we done"? We just stood there just looking at the motor. It's an all stock $850 wrx engine & it was the single most scariest thing that I had ever driven, even with 6ft + 100kg Paul in the car it was ballistic!
The tourqe was amazing, I'll be quite happy to detune some boost out of just so that I can get used to driving it again, for the rest of u guys doing this conversion, u are in for the ride of your life when u finish!
Hopefully the engineer will get over to my place this week & I can get it all sorted.
regards
Jak
{Post edited to promote peace and love... 🙂 }
[Edited on 11-11-2004 by Baja Wes]
Andy42 ·
So your saying the STI version I am putting in my Buggy should be fun. :thumb :thumb Hope I will get to find out soon.
speedster356 ·
Fun isn't it.
Is it running the smaller TDO4 turbo (auto like mine) or the larger TDO5 from a manual. If it's the smaller then a very good upgrade is a TDO5 (straight swap). Al from Sunspares answered a question on the swap with this comment:
"Expect more lag"...."more power"......."more wheel spin"....."more fun"......."and the threat of death"!!!!
Well done Jak, can't wait for a ride.
Is it running the smaller TDO4 turbo (auto like mine) or the larger TDO5 from a manual. If it's the smaller then a very good upgrade is a TDO5 (straight swap). Al from Sunspares answered a question on the swap with this comment:
"Expect more lag"...."more power"......."more wheel spin"....."more fun"......."and the threat of death"!!!!
Well done Jak, can't wait for a ride.
gayanne ·
Well done Jako(skaiffe) these motors are scary and only people on the dark side will ever now and people who are open minded.JVLRacing
71superbug ·
wrx motor for $850? what year was it from?
did this include ECU and loom? seems really cheap.
where did u manage to pick it ip for this price?
Anthony
did this include ECU and loom? seems really cheap.
where did u manage to pick it ip for this price?
Anthony
ruckus ·
damn that was a good tale! I'm shaking now 🙂
wacked1 ·
good one mate
Baja Wes ·
Excellent to see your nearly done jak, and even better to hear your opinion of the performance.
As you know we have people on here saying VW motor's are the best, and people saying the jap engines are better. So it's very nice to see someone who had a very high performance VW motor come to the dark side and give an honest real life experience based opinion.
I went to the dark side with my V6 after coming from a fairly decent 1915 with twin 44IDF webers and 044 heads, and I told people the V6 absolutely kills the 1915 in every way.
It's good to see everyone who has tried it agrees the jap motors are better. The only people who disagree are the people who haven't tried it, have no experience with it, and therefore shouldn't be saying anything about it.
As you know we have people on here saying VW motor's are the best, and people saying the jap engines are better. So it's very nice to see someone who had a very high performance VW motor come to the dark side and give an honest real life experience based opinion.
I went to the dark side with my V6 after coming from a fairly decent 1915 with twin 44IDF webers and 044 heads, and I told people the V6 absolutely kills the 1915 in every way.
It's good to see everyone who has tried it agrees the jap motors are better. The only people who disagree are the people who haven't tried it, have no experience with it, and therefore shouldn't be saying anything about it.
gayanne ·
Hey,what we have to think about is no body is bagging a vw motor its about trying something new and its coming down to horses versus dollars and a reliability factor.Im one of those blokes that sperd Jako(skaiffe) on to do a subie becaues of these points.Im sure ther going to be many happy fun days to come.People should look how this transplant is done for dollar wise for a road going version,People this motor is still a boxer motor this has been a project on this site to follow! JVLRacing
Jeza ·
Jak
Sounds awesome, and you are given a huge thumbs up for the time scale it was done in!!!!!
You're going to have some fun at the track this season!!!!
Wes
You're gonna go blue soon if you don't take a breath from repeating yourself 😀
High performance VW engines can be fast and I imagine a heap of fun, but how can anyone in their right mind compare an engine designed 50 years (or more) ago (even though it was ahead of its time) with one designed and refined in the last 10!!!!!!
It doesn't take much power to move a VW though, which is probably why HP VW motors do feel fast- But stick it in a wrx and see what happens!!!
Cheers
Jeremy
[Edited on 10-11-2004 by Jeza]
Sounds awesome, and you are given a huge thumbs up for the time scale it was done in!!!!!
You're going to have some fun at the track this season!!!!
Wes
You're gonna go blue soon if you don't take a breath from repeating yourself 😀
High performance VW engines can be fast and I imagine a heap of fun, but how can anyone in their right mind compare an engine designed 50 years (or more) ago (even though it was ahead of its time) with one designed and refined in the last 10!!!!!!
It doesn't take much power to move a VW though, which is probably why HP VW motors do feel fast- But stick it in a wrx and see what happens!!!
Cheers
Jeremy
[Edited on 10-11-2004 by Jeza]
71superbug ·
then stick the heart of the wrx in the vw and see what happens. hehe
🙂
well done jak. im impressed with how long it took. still wondering about that price though...seems like u got a damn bargain..
Anthony
🙂
well done jak. im impressed with how long it took. still wondering about that price though...seems like u got a damn bargain..
Anthony
boof2332 ·
we got all the motors together...no ecu.
always someone with a couple in stock that are not selling!
Matt
always someone with a couple in stock that are not selling!
Matt
71superbug ·
thats still a good price considering cheaper i found an LIBERTY motor with ecu is like 2200 over here. and thats not as good a motor (weaker heads i believe) and a microtech is only about 1k neway.
works out the same
its goood
will keep my eye out
Anthony
works out the same
its goood
will keep my eye out
Anthony
Jenny ·
Jak,
Can you post a list of the specs on your car - eg what adaptor plate/ clutch, gearbox, brakes, etc and did you fit any additional bracing for the frame horns or an engine crossmember?
Thanks.
Can you post a list of the specs on your car - eg what adaptor plate/ clutch, gearbox, brakes, etc and did you fit any additional bracing for the frame horns or an engine crossmember?
Thanks.
Jak Rizzo ·
All the front bumper & spoiler is back on, rear guards & apron are on also, even my stock decklid fits perfectly, who's going to know?
Jak Rizzo ·
,
warb ·
the rice boy you just burnt....Jak Rizzo wrote:who's going to know?
ricola ·
Well done Jak! :thumb
I still remember being stunned into silence the first time I put my foot down in the speedster after fitting the turbo lump, I was sure I had just written my own death certificate!
You'll be wanting more boost on a couple of week though... 😉
How is ground clearance with everything shifted forwards?
Rich
I still remember being stunned into silence the first time I put my foot down in the speedster after fitting the turbo lump, I was sure I had just written my own death certificate!
You'll be wanting more boost on a couple of week though... 😉
How is ground clearance with everything shifted forwards?
Rich
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
Well done, how far is Paul away with his? Wait until you go up a hill, thats where the turbos shine.
Steve
Well done, how far is Paul away with his? Wait until you go up a hill, thats where the turbos shine.
Steve
Jeza ·
That looks fantastic Jak
How or what did you hang all the rear metal work off? (once you removed it to fit the engine in) ie back part of the guards and the rear apron etc.
And have you sorted out how to do your bumper mounts?
Cheers
Jeremy
How or what did you hang all the rear metal work off? (once you removed it to fit the engine in) ie back part of the guards and the rear apron etc.
And have you sorted out how to do your bumper mounts?
Cheers
Jeremy
Jak Rizzo ·
The rear apron just bolts straight up, the gaurds bolt on like normal, amazingly it's still more than capable of holding the rear bumper as I have retained the bumper mounts. I'm going to run 2 mm thick, 25mm wide steel on the inside of the guards to make it even stronger, & also heavily lighten the bumper & the bumper bar brackets to compensate even more, I'll make some bumper bar brackets out of alloy later on down the track.
regards
Jak
regards
Jak
Jeza ·
aaaahhh, so I guess you just cut around the heads / cam cover without removing the bumper/ guard mounting sections?
Some of the other conversions I've seen leave the car looking like a Baja, which leaves very little to bolt bumpers / rear aprons back to...
alloy bumper brackets- neat, I've often thought about drilling the rear bumper to help even up weight distribution....
Cheers
Jeremy
Some of the other conversions I've seen leave the car looking like a Baja, which leaves very little to bolt bumpers / rear aprons back to...
alloy bumper brackets- neat, I've often thought about drilling the rear bumper to help even up weight distribution....
Cheers
Jeremy
Alex Holzl ·
SWEET!! Cant wait to have all the dubs back at the track!!
alex
alex
Brad ·
Hey Jak, Looks great .. what gearbox did you use ? Any mods ?
Craig Torrens ·
standard engine lid with 1300 badges 😉
when is the first track test ?
when is the first track test ?