hey everybody just trying to get some ideas on sound proofing my bug not that its loud. id just like to be able to hear the stereo at 110km/h. so what is everybody using and how hard is it to install. please share your ideas with me and hopefully everyone will be better for it :thumb
Gibbo ·
Are you talking under the pan or behind the back seat / engine fire wall.
Would be best to do both I spose....
barls ·
yeah i thought that id do both just not sure what to use
57kombi ·
I have heard that you can get some stuff called Acoustic panels, it is about 2 cm thick and you glue it on the inside of the cab over the firewall, this stuff was in England but you must be able to get it here, check with local car stereo dealers.
Cheers
Dave
68AutoBug ·
I have used the blue foam mats available at cheap shops..
I have glued it inside the doors - behind the rear side panels,
I also covered the roof with the same blue foam about 15-20mm thick... I have some carpet underlay padding about 20mm thick to put under the carpets... I also used some pressure pack foam sound deadener every where I could...
[this stuff is used extensively in prestige cars--]
especially around the rear window etc -- anywhere that could stop the noise of the engine... I will also cover under the bonnet area with either carpet underlay or foam matting..
and maybe under the bonnet itself... I am trying to use as much sound deadening as I can without making the car any heavier... such as not using bitumen type products which are great but very heavy... You can buy specialized sound deadening products but they are costly.... I hope this helps.
Lee Noonan 68AutoBug
johny rotten ·
Looks like rust acelerator to me
68AutoBug ·
All metal inside the doors has been painted with fish oil and killrust paint... I can guarantee there won't be any rust in My Car.... All the cars I have owned over the years have been rust free... even 20 years later ** even the rusted ones - due to complete coverage with fish oil... it simply stops the air getting to the metal... rusted or not.... no air no rust....
Its much better than having carpet underlay etc inside the doors where they can get soaking wet....
My car will be still around 30 years from now- I guarantee it..
and RUST FREE.... includes body and chassis.....
Lee - using fish oil since 1964 --
68AutoBug ·
Rotten Johnny -
If You don't have anything to say - that makes sense ---
best to keep Your fingers off the keys...
Lee
jonno-t3 ·
i used 10mm jute everywhere in the car...its just that 10mm cotten compressed underlay....awesome stuff...for ur doors...rock on down to jaycar...they sell your acusti-tiles...they are very expensive...but they are the best...so i have heard... you could also go out anf buy urself a just cars mag, and in there will be an article for tru-fit carpets.... dont get the carpet, just buy some of their bitumen multi layered underlay....its got the compressed cotton jute with bitumen plus a foil bcking....best stuff...but like lee said, if u do use a lot it'll get heavy...but seriously... lol...how much are u gonna use?
i went to a insulation place, got stuff for under my carpet and inside firewall, and a bitumen foil thing for inside the engine bay, works well but u will never get rid of the noise totally, but stereo sounds heaps better...
barls ·
thanks all i might just do what sam said cause its never going to eliminate 100% but any thing is an improvement. thanks for your help guys
twoguns ·
haha i use 1000w amp and an 800w amp. plenty 'sound proofing enuf' so that i hear me stereo. and in buses they are one big cockpit.😉
barls ·
yeah but i dont want to screw around with amps at the moment wes due to the limited fund situation i have for this resto
twoguns ·
money you save in one allows you to spend in the other. get the stereo first. teh keep adding till youre satisfied.:thumb😉
barls ·
got the stereo its the one out of the bug from before i crashed it, got the speakers as well.
barls ·
decided im going to spray the under body with a sound dampener
Dasdubber ·
Some options include brownbread, flashtak (I think thats what its called available from bunnings in some stores), g-spot serenity or serenity max, stinger roadkill and dynamat...in that order of expense. Check out some audio forums (eg. caraudioaustralia.com.au/forums) and do a search on sound deadening and there will be $hiateloads of info.
ColumBUS ·
i use inudstrial packing rubber, its about 1cm thick, laid underneathcarpet inside and behind engine outside. its durable enough to withstand any heat, and keeps noise to bare minimum. good stuff, ask any local factory in an industrial area and theyll have plenty of it.
The_Bronze. ·
Yeah I just glued underlay inside the side panels (like the image above; ran some nice long strips along the pan floors, a double think piece across the fire wall and the upright behind the rear seat passengers ankles.
I rin twon cannons out the rear of My baja and it is a loud car - some how the note at 100kph is quite pleasant though. I know when I'm at 100 (or 60) because I can hear conversation, the radio and the kids (unfortunately) in the back. I reckon with some better rear speakers I won't be able to hear the kids so there is room for improvement.
Bronze.
EDIT: I forgot to mention the three litres of black Tar inside (on) the pan, in the car and inside the wheel arches - this makes a huge difference. You will be surprised. The Tar actually cut more noise that all the inner underlay combined.
Bronze.
[Edited on 8-12-2004 by The_Bronze.]
68AutoBug ·
Where do You get Black Tar...???
besides off the bitumen road.......
That sound great... but it would cover over My nice blue killrust paint.... under the guards...
Lee
barls ·
just found out ill be using stone guard under the car and black jax or almanoids inside
mnsKmobi ·
barls wrote:just found out ill be using stone guard under the car and black jax or almanoids inside
almanoids? Is that Orminoid? I've used Orminoid. It's bitumenous paint that takes ages to dry/set and is still a bit soft even then, so be careful where you put it.
barls ·
yeah thats the one i had no idea about the spelling. it works well under carpets as ive used it before on the last bug we did
carisma ·
i packet my seats with horse rug liner from any canvas store (cheap as)and rolled on orminoid in my doors and rear panels and sprayed it on the boot and back lid and in the spaces every where ,on floor so the carpet sticks to it,under back seat,and under neath car . and got this silver coating stuff about 10cm thick and put round motor,, no where near a loud,but when it went in my doors it stuffed up my central looking till it dryed,,,,,,,,,
68AutoBug ·
Good to see so many people doing their own thing so far as sound proofing goes....
Many of these products are new to me.... and not readily available in the country....
its good to see You are getting good results...
Lee
68AutoBug ·
I read where Beetles made in Mexico after 1990 [from memory] did not have any sound proofing anywhere....
cost cutting....
Lee
Freddie Fender ·
I have tar paint (wheel arches, pan )and it works well, add underlay (thin compressed felt) and decent carpet and I find the sound to be reasonable with the windows closed. It isn't quiet but if it is too quiet then aren't not getting the full Beetle experience.
Go authentic and don't have a stereo!! I find the stereo interupts the music in my head!!!!
barls ·
hey lee my old man got what we are using in taree so im sure you can get it at scone
i think ill end up going along the same lines as das with the foil backed sound deadener in the back
boof2332 ·
Hi All,
I just built 7 sound proof teaching studios for my mates music shop..he got this new stuff called WAVEBAR.
It looks like lino and can be cut the same..comes in 8kg per m2 or 4 kg m2. It absorbs the sound, not reflects it. The rooms we built are awesome thanks to one layer of this stuff inbetween each room. I have some for my car..you can cut it and use it in the floor or on the fire wall and it is only about 5mm thick.
Matt
oval TOFU ·
How much weight would you guys add to your cars in the name of sound proofing?
Just wondering...
barls ·
weight is no an problem for me with the t4 2L
ruckus ·
boof how expensive is that stuff?
oval TOFU ·
barls wrote:weight is no an problem for me with the t4 2L
Yeh, I'm gonna be tootling along in my glorious 40HP! Every gram counts! I usually take a sh!t before I drive so the car goes faster!
boersch ·
I usually take a sh!t before I drive so the car goes faster!
hahaha, you could make a killing selling vw stickers with that line
barls ·
thats ok mate its not for everyone to modify i salute you for keeping it stock
oval TOFU ·
lol
I only keep it stock coz my wallet and my front drums tell me to do so!
barls ·
yes mate ive been there but will never go back
68AutoBug ·
I have to have front disc brakes and a collapsable steering column...
I also like bumper bars....
& electric fuel pumps and electronic ignitions.....
& H4 Headlamps....
& two speed wipers.....
& Driving & Fog lamps....
& reversing lights....
Try this site, seems to have some altenative product choices when it comes to sound deadening!
Dan
hallph ·
That site looks great, i emailed them about some prices.
Also, which areas in a 75 Kombi would be the 'key' areas to sound deaden in order to reduce both road and engine noise? Front doors, floor, tire wells - what about around the engine bay?
KruizinKombi ·
The firewall and floor above the engine will benefit from some insulation, which will help prevent engine noise finding its way into the vehicle.
Even with the engine noise taken care of, any large flat panels will add noise if not dampened in some way. A lot of the noise found in kombis is not engine noise anyway, just vibration caused by road surfaces, wind, etc. Try driving your kombi fully packed up for camping, and you will notice how much 'other' noise is around; you just usually can't hear it above the engine noise. The roof, inside side panels and doors, and even the floor would benefit from some sort of damping material. The bituminous stuff is reputed to be the best, but as others have said, it is heavy. Remember that the panels do not necessarily need to be completely covered with dampening material; a section in the middle will still dampen a lot of the vibration. (Have a look inside many factory-finished vehicles)
As RENNWAGEN already suggested, check this site out...
i ended up going with the dyno mat extreme. bought the boot kit and still have enough left over to do the front kicks as well. this is what ive done so far ill post more when ive done it
oval TOFU ·
nice one! How thick is that stuff?
How much did you get for how much $?
Did you you use a hairdryer to mold it or is it adhesive backed?
What's the mean rainfall in Kyrgyzstan for 1997?
barls ·
it cost me $230 for 5 sheets, which is the boot pack. its adhesive and you just peel and stick, roll for a better fit. each sheet is about 3-5mm thick.
i think it was 24mm of rain that year. 🙂
oval TOFU ·
smart arse!:kiss
so hows it sound? or, not sound for that matter?
[Edited on 8/6/2005 by oval TOFU]
barls ·
ill let you know when i get the engine back in mate as its still out awaiting a rebuild
penguin ·
Hey Barls
has the engine come back yet????
mnsKmobi ·
KruizinKombi wrote:As RENNWAGEN already suggested, check this site out...
Be warned though that the kombi in that article is supposed to be a real rust bucket now. Make sure that you treat any rust b4 covering an area with soundproofing. Also, don't use anything that can hold moisture - like insulation batts.
What I have been doing is coating areas with fish oil, rustproof primer then bitumenous paint. Takes a while but it shouldn't rust in a hurry! So far only the front doors and the front passenger's wheel arch have been finished and it is noticeably quieter at 100 kmh.
oval TOFU ·
mnsKmobi wrote:Be warned though that the kombi in that article is supposed to be a real rust bucket now.
I was thinking that there wasn't that much prep done when he mentions filling all the door cavities with sound deadening foam and other stuff like that...
barls ·
no penguin its only just made it to the upholsers to have a headtrim done
oval TOFU ·
any new news barls?
Was wondering if I should I tear out the old sound deadener if I'm replacing parts of it? nn[ Edited on 19-7-2005 by oval TOFU ]
barls ·
well its back from the trimmers for this time and now we are working on the engine so in a little while mate
barls ·
did the front kick panels yesterday ready to fit up, we just ran out of time. i started off by sound deadening the panels behind the kick panels
then fitting the kick panels in place to mark where the speakers would sit and covering the back in the dynomat
heres them sitting in place
hallph ·
Any more updates on this Barls?
I've just bought myself a pack of 24 Bostik sound deadening sheets - i'll put them in my van sometime but i doubt they are flexible enough to place near the engine, possibly just in the doors etc on the flatter surfaces 🙂
barls ·
no mate unfortunately as im not even in the same country as my lovely chaos. but i will update it when i get back
azz ·
What product can I use in the engine bay of a kombi?
hallph ·
azz wrote:What product can I use in the engine bay of a kombi?
I too would like to know what i can use in the engine bay to quiten it down a little for those who sit in the back seat - anyone have any products?
azz ·
BUMP
barls ·
dynomax extreme is rated to a high temp mate but im sure there are other products out there as well
ryfoz ·
This is a top thread!!!
The guys from this site 'Heat, Rust, & Noise in VW's ' said he steam cleaned the interior metal surfaces of his bus.........
Does this sound like a bad start to anybody else?
I would have thought HP air and a decent Solvent based cleaner would probably be the best start to clean out the shit and prevent any cleaning moisture entering any cavities prior to treatment.
barls ·
thats all i did was hp air and wax and grease remover. still working on the engine set up so ill let you all know how much quieter it is when i get it running
azz ·
Where did you get the DynaMat from?
barls ·
autobarn stocks it ive bought 1 trunk kit and 1 speaker kit and i still have enough to put some on the parcel shelf where im putting in the 6x9s
Learner ·
how do you get that carpet glue oof the metal. it's a paint!!! any products?
barls ·
wax and grease remover mate
rearengine ·
So what was the effectiveness of the dynomax in the engine bay barls?
68AutoBug ·
I used rolls of that EVA blue foam matting used by campers and Yoga exercise people...
one is approx 12mm thick and the other is 7mm thick
the thin one is $5 a roll at BIGW and Go Lo etc..
I used all around My engine bay - inside and outside
glued it on with contact cement..
cover both the foam and the metal with contact then let it go tacky dry... then put them together..
they will never come off... if You only use contact cement on one side.. You can pull it off...
I put two layers of the 7mm stuff on the roof...
behind the back seat - on the sides - in the doors...
its virtually water prrof... I also have it under My guards to stop stone chips... lol
around the engine bay plus under the engine bay I painted it all matt black...
that was 12 months ago...
I recommend it.. its cheap - waterproof - weighs nothing..
and sound can't really go thru it....
LEE
barls ·
works well. hasnt cut all engine noise out but i can hear the stereo at 110km and the stereo is normally on about 18 out of 30.
it also has taken out some of the road noise
68AutoBug ·
trying to show picture
of foam in My engine bay,,,
LEE
barls ·
hey lee i think just once for the same pic is enough 😂