I know I will get a few opinions but how should I treat a fully recon 2L motor? in our bus? It will be getting a right good run over the next year as we head from Adelaide anticlockwise round this huge country of yours. We will potter around here for a few months as we pay off the motor and head away in March. If you are passing by Port Vincent, and want to help out a new VW convert learn about his, in need of love bus, drop by. My wife and I are at the Foreshore caravan park and there is a nice pub not far.
Ta Philip
Bizarre ·
basically drive it....... hard!
yes you will get a lot of opinions
keep an eye on the valves
HotRodMatt ·
Don't be afraid to rev it, but don't lug (under rev) it. Oil and tappets (unless it's hydraulic) at the recommended intervals during it's early life. Basically drive it like you would any engie you care about. Engine/gear braking is a good idea too rather than stepping on the brake and clutch.
Give it an oil change between service intervals especially when doing lots of miles.
56astro ·
HotRodMatt wrote:Engine/gear braking is a good idea too rather than stepping on the brake and clutch.
What's the advantage/benefits with this Matt?
seagull ·
So you dont have to stay longer to pay off the new brakes and clutch ?:alien
Desert Moose ·
The best thing is to drive it like you stole it... I mean flatout 1st,2rd,3rd then hard on the brakes then straight on the gas peddle again, also try to get the top speed out of the car, do a couple of burnouts........... mind you I don't know if any of this is good for the motor or car, but it will make you feel better about spending all that money:P
Suzii ·
With my new motor I was told the longer I could keep to 50mph or below the better motor I would end up with. I kept below 55mph for almost 3,000 miles and it is now due for its 3600 mile service and runs great. Was also told not to "lug" the motor at all, didn't seem to matter if it revved hard. This is in a beetle btw. The motor had/has to be serviced at 300, 1200, 2400, 3600, 4800 and 6000 miles for warranty purposes.
Bizarre ·
56astro wrote:
HotRodMatt wrote:Engine/gear braking is a good idea too rather than stepping on the brake and clutch.
What's the advantage/benefits with this Matt?
When you back off it "sucks" the rings out and lets them bed in better
Another way is to blat down a hill and then back off suddenly
As for staying under 50... well, we said you would get different answers.
the main reason to drive hard is to get the temperature up so as the rings bed in. If you dont you can "glaze" the cylinders and the rings wont bed in and this results in blow by and oil useage.
The dont lug is real good advice. So is driving for a long time at a constant speed.
Variance is the answer
Anyway - this is according to me :jesus
[Edited on 6-12-2004 by blue74l]
HotRodMatt ·
When you back off it "sucks" the rings out and lets them bed in better
That's a good way to put it Barry.
Pretty much the idea. Engine braking assists in setting the rings and keeping them even and "in form" while the engine is fresh.
snifter ·
Thanks guys for all the info. Wish we had spent more time talking to you all before we made our first purchase but you know, once biten!!!!! So does everybody agree that...
1 dont lug
2 engine brake
3 vary speed over long distances
4 regular service
5 dont go over 50mph or speed like hell!!!!!!!!!! Any more help?
ta
Philip
BLUE_62 ·
That about covers it.
I aint had a new motor in my beetle, but i had one rebuilt for my 1976 Clubman Mini. Haha. the guy said to me when i picked it up. Now thrash it gently....... 10 minutes later i was passing my mate on the monash freeway in melbourne doing 145-150km/h.
Tell ya what thou. After 10,000 km's still not a problem and everyone that drives it can not understand why a 1100, with a 998 head for slightly better compression, and a wade 104cam can pull to 7,000rpm when the normal everyday mini makes about 5500-6000rpm and runs out of puff.
I would say a flat 4 would use the same theroy. All within reason, nothing stupid and thrash it gently. :thumb