Here is what i did to my pan to get ground clearance and straight tubes in order to keep the pressure in the cooling system low.
[Edited on 15-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
subaruboxer ·
Aussieveedubbers · Non-VW Engine Conversions
My cooling system
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/35720/my-cooling-system
subaruboxer ·
I cut out two little pieces!!!
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
subaruboxer ·
[Just to get it flat!
subaruboxer ·
Paintet pan with new straight 2 mm steel pieces.
subaruboxer ·
Here the radiator.
[Edited on 5-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Edited on 5-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
subaruboxer ·
The front end.
subaruboxer ·
The radiator cover. It would be possible to get the battery to the front of the car.
Brad ·
keen to see some more pics of your radiator
subaruboxer ·
Here a pic of the front end of the tubes
subaruboxer ·
While cleaning the engine i had the idea to reverse the tube on the engine, to get to the right direction,
subaruboxer ·
This is what it looks like now. Unfortunately this pic is a bit blurred, but it is the only one i have.
subaruboxer ·
And the completed engine.
subaruboxer ·
other side
lugnuts ·
That is one smooth install,looks almost oem :kisssubaruboxer wrote:The radiator cover. It would be possible to get the battery to the front of the car.
subaruboxer ·
And the engine running for the first time.
humpty ·
Sorry to take the wind out of your sails, but the reverse coolant manifold thing has been done before.
That said, well done....It certainly cleans up the rear of the conversion and makes for a simpler coolant path.
I really should do this to my Bug....I will, right after the EG33 conversion in my bus is finished. Just the fuel system and charging systems to go!
I was thinking about running the coolant lines through the heater channels on my Bug...Has anyone looked at that?
That said, well done....It certainly cleans up the rear of the conversion and makes for a simpler coolant path.
I really should do this to my Bug....I will, right after the EG33 conversion in my bus is finished. Just the fuel system and charging systems to go!
I was thinking about running the coolant lines through the heater channels on my Bug...Has anyone looked at that?
subaruboxer ·
Hi humpty,
I know now that I was not the first one to reverse the water manifold. I Did it a year ago, when I still had no PC and no access to the world wide web. At that time I only knew one suby conversion. It is just that I thougt I had a good idea. With little effort you gain a lot. I would not recommend you to put the coolant lines through the heater channels. You will get moisture in your heater channels due to condensation. If you run tubing under the pan you are kind of enlarging the radiator.
[Edited on 13-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
I know now that I was not the first one to reverse the water manifold. I Did it a year ago, when I still had no PC and no access to the world wide web. At that time I only knew one suby conversion. It is just that I thougt I had a good idea. With little effort you gain a lot. I would not recommend you to put the coolant lines through the heater channels. You will get moisture in your heater channels due to condensation. If you run tubing under the pan you are kind of enlarging the radiator.
[Edited on 13-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
humpty ·
My brother did the EJ20T thing to his Notch over 6 years ago and he ran the lines straight up the middle. No clearnance issues on his car as the pipe fitted into the channel recess next to the floorpan halfs. As a result more corners in his system. He has been running the standard water pump with this set-up and also running a front mounted intercooler radiator up front also...In 6 years of West Australian heat (40+C in summer) the car has never over heated. He is running an old style copper radiator up front with a small air intake that would be no more than 300x120mm sitting just below the bumper.
As the coolant lines are hot, I would have thought that running the lines through the heater channels would keep them dry. But as you say, there woud be an added cooling benefit to running the lines in the airstream. I do know a guy who ran his lines up the tunnel, but I think his car get a bit hot in the cab!!! Not good!!! :duh
As the coolant lines are hot, I would have thought that running the lines through the heater channels would keep them dry. But as you say, there woud be an added cooling benefit to running the lines in the airstream. I do know a guy who ran his lines up the tunnel, but I think his car get a bit hot in the cab!!! Not good!!! :duh
akean1 ·
nice work!:thumb does it worry you having the battery right next to the fuel tank?
Doley ·
Great job!!!. Do keep us posted. What did you use for ECU and wiring, stock or aftermarket ?.
subaruboxer ·
Hi Doley, I use a stock ECU and stock wiring.Doley wrote:Great job!!!. Do keep us posted. What did you use for ECU and wiring, stock or aftermarket ?.
subaruboxer ·
Hi akean 1, no it does not worry me, because mine is under the rear seat. I just checked the possibility to transfer some weight to the front of the bug.akean1 wrote:nice work!:thumb does it worry you having the battery right next to the fuel tank?
Brad ·
Cool thanks for the photos. A few questions / comments ??:
- ensure the heater lines are not blocked off as they need water running through them in order to allow the thermostate to work. If you block them your engine will over heat. I can see you have retained them on your engine which is a good thing. Unsure what you are going to do with them now though so just thought I would mention that it need continous flow a lot of car heaters do not provide this as the stop the flow when they are clossed.
- If you are chopping and spining the water manifold then it is a good idea to add a blead nipple to it so you can get the air out of the lines easy. The EJ's can be a real PITA to bleed up and any air can mean over heating.
- Intake manifold .. how did you go with the rear fire wall ? Have just put an EJ into a beetle body and got it to clear, did you cut your rear wall ?
- What is the overflow bottle from ? It looks real neat and I would be keen to get hold of one.
- Will be interested to see how you cooling goes, it looks like a good setup and doesn't stand out, nice and suttle.
Congrats on the install it looks very neat :beer
- ensure the heater lines are not blocked off as they need water running through them in order to allow the thermostate to work. If you block them your engine will over heat. I can see you have retained them on your engine which is a good thing. Unsure what you are going to do with them now though so just thought I would mention that it need continous flow a lot of car heaters do not provide this as the stop the flow when they are clossed.
- If you are chopping and spining the water manifold then it is a good idea to add a blead nipple to it so you can get the air out of the lines easy. The EJ's can be a real PITA to bleed up and any air can mean over heating.
- Intake manifold .. how did you go with the rear fire wall ? Have just put an EJ into a beetle body and got it to clear, did you cut your rear wall ?
- What is the overflow bottle from ? It looks real neat and I would be keen to get hold of one.
- Will be interested to see how you cooling goes, it looks like a good setup and doesn't stand out, nice and suttle.
Congrats on the install it looks very neat :beer
boof2332 ·
Nice work,
Is it at your place or a workshop....what is the radiator out of?
Mine is an alfa 33 ..is small also and fits just like yours, although I have 2 10 inch fans behind.
The reversal of the cooling pipe makes the rear look that bit neater.
Keep the pics coming..
matt
Is it at your place or a workshop....what is the radiator out of?
Mine is an alfa 33 ..is small also and fits just like yours, although I have 2 10 inch fans behind.
The reversal of the cooling pipe makes the rear look that bit neater.
Keep the pics coming..
matt
subaruboxer ·
Hi Brad,
the heater lines are not blocked off. To get the car street legal a heater is to be installed overhere. It is under the rear seat where the battery used to be. The battery is moved to the drivers side under the rear seat.The overflow bottle is of a VW rabbit 4 (Golf 4 overhere).
Yes I had to cut the firewall to make room for the intake manifold. It got to be welded in to get it street legal.
Getting the air out of the cooling system is no sweat. I just let it run warm let it cool down completly, and fill it up then.
That is about it. It is important to leave the cap of the overflow bottle on while cooling down. It got to be a closed system or all the water will spill out.
Hi Matt,
the radiator is of a VW rabbit 1 GTI, it fits because I made the spare wheel well wider at the bottom. I started with a GTI-engine and saw a subaru conversion at a meet and got aware that I was on the wrong track.
More pics to come of the heater and some details.
And yes it is my place no workshop, I do it all by myself.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
the heater lines are not blocked off. To get the car street legal a heater is to be installed overhere. It is under the rear seat where the battery used to be. The battery is moved to the drivers side under the rear seat.The overflow bottle is of a VW rabbit 4 (Golf 4 overhere).
Yes I had to cut the firewall to make room for the intake manifold. It got to be welded in to get it street legal.
Getting the air out of the cooling system is no sweat. I just let it run warm let it cool down completly, and fill it up then.
That is about it. It is important to leave the cap of the overflow bottle on while cooling down. It got to be a closed system or all the water will spill out.
Hi Matt,
the radiator is of a VW rabbit 1 GTI, it fits because I made the spare wheel well wider at the bottom. I started with a GTI-engine and saw a subaru conversion at a meet and got aware that I was on the wrong track.
More pics to come of the heater and some details.
And yes it is my place no workshop, I do it all by myself.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
subaruboxer ·
Not the cooling system, but as you asked for it here the box
that i welded in and my wiring and ECU.
that i welded in and my wiring and ECU.
vwrallycar ·
will be interesting to see how well your engine stays cool with very little air inlet to the radiator. i say that because i tried mine like that 1st and found that i had to put holes in the bonnet to keep the temp down. please let me know how you get on with this
subaruboxer ·
vwrallycar,
here two pics of front. One from the side, here you see how I changed the spare wheel well. And one from above.
here two pics of front. One from the side, here you see how I changed the spare wheel well. And one from above.
subaruboxer ·
There is more air coming in, not just trough those 69 12 mm holes. I painted it all black to hide it.
Jenny ·
Nice work, keep those pictures comming!
Brad ·
Cheers Subie Boxer - just make sure you have a full flow heater or at least a bypass as a lot of heater stop flow when they are turned off.
Keep up the good work look fwd to hearing how it runs.
Keep up the good work look fwd to hearing how it runs.
vwrallycar ·
i see you have done yours a lot different to mine. i tried to retain as much of the car as possible.
yours looks a lot better than mine i must say
yours looks a lot better than mine i must say
malcolm ·
nice work, I had a fiat X19 and they had bleed valves on the tubes under the car .
subaruboxer ·
When I started the conversion, I heard things like: you got to use the stock subaru tachometer or the engine will not run, or without the subaru watertemp nothing will work. All not true, I installed a 52 mm VDO watertemp gauge and a 52 mm VDO tachometer. I got my speedometer changed to a 210 km range old style and put a sender for oiltemperature into the oilpan as I shortened it. The oiltemp gauge is installed in the fuel gauge of my bug. From left to right.
malcolm ·
have you thought of having a small air scoop under the front valance to direct air into the radiator.
Brad ·
The subaru water temp guage is in a different range to the VDO one. You will not get a correct reading without using the correct VDO one. That being said the VDO one goes in the same place as the Subaru one no hassles at all.
If you use the subaru temp sender it will work your guage will simply not be accurate, it will read slightly ( about 10 degree C) higher than it is in the middle range. So it will say 100 when you engine is only 90. This varies slightly. If you want to test is the Subie temp sender is next to the ECU temp sender and the ECU switches the thermo fan on at 94-94 degree C. So run it hot and see what temp guage is when fan turns on.
It is also a good idea to remove and clean the temp sender as the Subie ones tend to get covered in crap which makes them a little less accuarte again. I am paranoid about Subie engine temps as it is the only thing that kills them.
On the VDO tacho, the old style VDO tachos with the metal surrounds often have issues with the Subie ECU output as the signal strength is no strong enough. I have found all the plastic ones work fine.
There is a lot of crap info out there in relation to subie conversions. The EJ22 is exempt from most of it but the EJ20T's seem to like retention of some subie switches and clusters.
If you use the subaru temp sender it will work your guage will simply not be accurate, it will read slightly ( about 10 degree C) higher than it is in the middle range. So it will say 100 when you engine is only 90. This varies slightly. If you want to test is the Subie temp sender is next to the ECU temp sender and the ECU switches the thermo fan on at 94-94 degree C. So run it hot and see what temp guage is when fan turns on.
It is also a good idea to remove and clean the temp sender as the Subie ones tend to get covered in crap which makes them a little less accuarte again. I am paranoid about Subie engine temps as it is the only thing that kills them.
On the VDO tacho, the old style VDO tachos with the metal surrounds often have issues with the Subie ECU output as the signal strength is no strong enough. I have found all the plastic ones work fine.
There is a lot of crap info out there in relation to subie conversions. The EJ22 is exempt from most of it but the EJ20T's seem to like retention of some subie switches and clusters.
Jenny ·
Regards the thermo fans, the original Suby ones are 3 wire, so I'm guessing they're dual speed. The fans I have are 2 wire/single speed so I'm interested to hear what fans you are using and how you have them wired up.
[Edited on 8-3-2005 by Jenny]
[Edited on 8-3-2005 by Jenny]
Oasis ·
The car is in Germany which would help enormously with temp, as opposed to Rockhampton... One hell of a way to improve your cooling system, move to Germany:thumbvwrallycar wrote:will be interesting to see how well your engine stays cool with very little air inlet to the radiator. i say that because i tried mine like that 1st and found that i had to put holes in the bonnet to keep the temp down. please let me know how you get on with this
Brad ·
I have 2 wire original fans. The ECU only has one temp range on the 22. I have been told the EJ20T have twin speed fans. SO the 20's may also have this.
subaruboxer ·
Malcom i thought about an air scoop but I think I don't need one.
Jenny my fan is a Spal high performance unit I bought it at a race shop. It sucks air in when standing still , you can feel it in front of the car.
Buggy Brad no problem so far with temp readings. The engine ran for an hour in my garage and the fan started exactly around 94 degrees and went off again just under 90 degrees. My VDO tacho is the new plastic style. My temp gauge is the old metal one. I use the subaru temp sender.
And I would love to move to Australia, even if you think it is an improvement for the cooling system to be here in Germany, Oasis. The cooling got to work overhere, because we have the world famous Autobahn without a speedlimit, at least in some sections. If you drive the converted bug for lets say an hour at top speed it got to work. Let's see what happens when I hit the road.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
Jenny my fan is a Spal high performance unit I bought it at a race shop. It sucks air in when standing still , you can feel it in front of the car.
Buggy Brad no problem so far with temp readings. The engine ran for an hour in my garage and the fan started exactly around 94 degrees and went off again just under 90 degrees. My VDO tacho is the new plastic style. My temp gauge is the old metal one. I use the subaru temp sender.
And I would love to move to Australia, even if you think it is an improvement for the cooling system to be here in Germany, Oasis. The cooling got to work overhere, because we have the world famous Autobahn without a speedlimit, at least in some sections. If you drive the converted bug for lets say an hour at top speed it got to work. Let's see what happens when I hit the road.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
Jenny ·
Ok, for the EJ20 cars fitted with air conditioning they had two fans that were 3 wire/2 speed. For cars without air con they only had one main fan wired with both + terminals together so that it ran high speed all the time.
subaruboxer ·
The radiator from below.
subaruboxer ·
Watertubes at the front end.
subaruboxer ·
Sideview of the tubes and hoses.
subaruboxer ·
Pan and enginebay.
[Edited on 15-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Edited on 15-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
Jeza ·
Nice work,
Fantastic pics too....
Cheers
Jeremy
Fantastic pics too....
Cheers
Jeremy
bugeyedbabe ·
where did u get it, how much does it cost...is that on a bettle...
need to know, cause my man doesn't like cars without air con...
need to know, cause my man doesn't like cars without air con...
baybuscamperkid ·
sh1t thats impressive. you've given m lot to think about for my next project 😎
subaruboxer ·
I used 28 mm stainless steel tubes under the pan, and silicon hoses except for the hoses running to the heater. I choosed silicon hoses, because they are available in a variety of bends, diameters and reducers. By just using 28 mm tubes and the reversed watermanifold on the engine I managed to reduce the watercapacity of the system to only 9,5 Liter. Less water means less weight. All conversions I have seen overhere used 35 mm tubes and hoses, and therefore 18 to 21 Liter coolant in the system. I have to mention that I wouldn`t install the heater under the rear seat again. I would put it left next to the gearbox outside the car.
speedster356 ·
Yeah the EJ20 auto fans are twin brush. I ran them on 2 circuits so as to have some redundancy. I have since split the fans having them run at low speed at ign on, and the higher speed at the standard Subi 94 deg.
Herbie ·
I am very curious to know if the car is up and running and if so, does it keep cool, My Watercooled 12A rotary powered bug has a radiator twice the size of this and a large scoop under the bottomless spare wheel well and all the shrouds and fans etc and it still stuggles to keep cool.
I hope I am just experiencing a loss of pressure in the cooling system and nothing more, as it stays cool for an hour or so then starts to climb in Temp slowly but surely. I'll check that next but was suprised to see such a small radiator in the front of your Bug.
Cheers Anthony
I hope I am just experiencing a loss of pressure in the cooling system and nothing more, as it stays cool for an hour or so then starts to climb in Temp slowly but surely. I'll check that next but was suprised to see such a small radiator in the front of your Bug.
Cheers Anthony
subaruboxer ·
Hi Herbie,
I haven't been on the road yet, but I had it running standing still in my garage a few times for 30 minutes and 1 hour. I had to hold the revs up at 3000 to get the temp to climb up.
My radiator is not small, I had to make the spare wheel well wider and deeper to get it in. Probably you got a problem with yours somehow. Will hit the road at the end of april. Have seen conversions with smaller radiators that ran without temp problems.
I haven't been on the road yet, but I had it running standing still in my garage a few times for 30 minutes and 1 hour. I had to hold the revs up at 3000 to get the temp to climb up.
My radiator is not small, I had to make the spare wheel well wider and deeper to get it in. Probably you got a problem with yours somehow. Will hit the road at the end of april. Have seen conversions with smaller radiators that ran without temp problems.
humpty ·
One thing all you potential Ozzie Subi guys must remember...We live a much hotter climate than subiboxer does. We have 38mm ali lines running the length of my brothers Notch with a smallish front intake area (300x160mm approx) and a Suzuki Seirra rad and stock sub intercooler rad up front, with a single 350mm fan.
Something seems to be amiss with your set-up Anthony...Air in the system maybe? Buggered rad? Does your engine actually feel hot? have you used a hand held electronic temp sensor to confirm your guage readings?
Hmmm?
Something seems to be amiss with your set-up Anthony...Air in the system maybe? Buggered rad? Does your engine actually feel hot? have you used a hand held electronic temp sensor to confirm your guage readings?
Hmmm?
Herbie ·
it does get hot,
I have taken a commadore VH Auto radiator, Brand new out of the box, had its cap etc modified to run sideways, tall, up and down, I have thought that its as simple as there is a fine leak somewhere that loses the water once it gets pressurised, then with the water level low, it may struggle to push the water round properly.
I have not been too stressed about it as I have too many other cars needing attention at the moment,
I have been focusing on getting the split panelvan on the road for the last few months.
I would be finnished but I dont have the cash spare for the parts I need etc.
I have been begging borrowing and stealing the money to import the 57 Chev, and in the back of that was the parts I bought in the states for my RX3 sedan
the list of tasks goes on and on,
I am just happy that herbie goes at all for the moment.
Next step, pressure test of cooling system, there is some corrosion around the top of the radiator, I am guessing thats where there is a leak, probably created by putting the radiator in and out 50 times, I may have flexed it the wrong way or something.
it doesnt need to lose much water before it struggles so its my guess that its unable to push the water to the top of the radiator with the airgap.
I have taken a commadore VH Auto radiator, Brand new out of the box, had its cap etc modified to run sideways, tall, up and down, I have thought that its as simple as there is a fine leak somewhere that loses the water once it gets pressurised, then with the water level low, it may struggle to push the water round properly.
I have not been too stressed about it as I have too many other cars needing attention at the moment,
I have been focusing on getting the split panelvan on the road for the last few months.
I would be finnished but I dont have the cash spare for the parts I need etc.
I have been begging borrowing and stealing the money to import the 57 Chev, and in the back of that was the parts I bought in the states for my RX3 sedan
the list of tasks goes on and on,
I am just happy that herbie goes at all for the moment.
Next step, pressure test of cooling system, there is some corrosion around the top of the radiator, I am guessing thats where there is a leak, probably created by putting the radiator in and out 50 times, I may have flexed it the wrong way or something.
it doesnt need to lose much water before it struggles so its my guess that its unable to push the water to the top of the radiator with the airgap.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I ran I turbo WBX in a 1302 with only the stock grill in the front apron in Sydney traffic on 40+ days with no problems.
Steve
I ran I turbo WBX in a 1302 with only the stock grill in the front apron in Sydney traffic on 40+ days with no problems.
Steve
Jeza ·
Wow thats low!
CU
Jeremy
CU
Jeremy
subaruboxer ·
nn[ Edited on 20-7-2005 by subaruboxer ]1303Steve wrote:Hi
I ran I turbo WBX in a 1302 with only the stock grill in the front apron in Sydney traffic on 40+ days with no problems.
Steve
Hi Steve,
that is exactly what everyone overhere is using on 1302 and 1303 bugs no additional opening for the radiator. But it can' t
be used with the older bugs.
Here is one that would work in your climate, but here it is too much!
1303Steve ·
Hi
I posted that picture of my old car so that you could see that you dont need a huge opening. It gives the game away if you have huge holes cut in the front of the car .
Steve
I posted that picture of my old car so that you could see that you dont need a huge opening. It gives the game away if you have huge holes cut in the front of the car .
Steve
subaruboxer ·
Another pic of the spare wheel well
subaruboxer ·
a view under the rear with engine installed
subaruboxer ·
and the right side
In the meantime I had some trouble with radiators. I took 3 radiators out of cars that i rode as daily drivers and stored them for a longer period of time. When I put them into my bug they were all leaking. I went for a new one now. If you store a used radiator, fill it up with coolant (not just water) if you want to use it later on.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
In the meantime I had some trouble with radiators. I took 3 radiators out of cars that i rode as daily drivers and stored them for a longer period of time. When I put them into my bug they were all leaking. I went for a new one now. If you store a used radiator, fill it up with coolant (not just water) if you want to use it later on.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
subaruboxer ·
Yesterday I put the new radiator in and filled the system with coolant. Two weeks ago I changed the routing of the hose to the heater. When I moved the trans up I had so little room in front of the engine, that I thougt it is best to get the hose away from under the intake manifold. It is now running between the manifold and the alternator over to the right side and under the manifold to the heater under the rear seat.
And because of this setup and my very low positioned heater, on the pan under the rear seat, it is more difficult to get the air out and the system filled properly.
I had the engine running 3 minutes,let it cool down and liftet
the front of the car up with a jack. After cooling for 20 minutes I let it down again, refilled coolant and had it running
5 minutes. I repeated it 2 more times. As I sad before it is important to the leave the cap on while cooling down. Take your time when filling the coolant!
A photo of the the new setup will follow.
And because of this setup and my very low positioned heater, on the pan under the rear seat, it is more difficult to get the air out and the system filled properly.
I had the engine running 3 minutes,let it cool down and liftet
the front of the car up with a jack. After cooling for 20 minutes I let it down again, refilled coolant and had it running
5 minutes. I repeated it 2 more times. As I sad before it is important to the leave the cap on while cooling down. Take your time when filling the coolant!
A photo of the the new setup will follow.
RobvB ·
Hi SubaruBoxer,
Very nice work !
Couple questions:
What year golf is that rad out of, is it from a GTi ?
Where did you get the fuel pump clamp ? Is that also stock Golf ? (I have the same pump I think).
Did you modify the pump to get the straight exit ? Mine has a banjo fitting at the end.
Thanks,
Rob.
Very nice work !
Couple questions:
What year golf is that rad out of, is it from a GTi ?
Where did you get the fuel pump clamp ? Is that also stock Golf ? (I have the same pump I think).
Did you modify the pump to get the straight exit ? Mine has a banjo fitting at the end.
Thanks,
Rob.
flat_iv ·
How did you plumb your expansion tank lines into the radiator lines/heater core lines?
pete wood ·
herb if there is plenty of air getting to that rad then the issue is not the rad, it must be a leak or something. My car sat on 80deg at 110km/h all the way to stockton the other day, and that was with a stock EJ25 rad with a scoop pushing air in front of it. Is your water pump good?
subaruboxer ·
The new radiator.
Hi Rob,
the radiator is of a '82 golf Gti, the fuel pump is a Bosch.
What is a fuel pump damp?
I would not install a Gti radiator again, I would instead choose a full metall (aluminium) radiator ove the plastic/metall ones. A good source for finding the right rad is eBay. You find all measurments there and pictures of the rads, and you can compare prices. The Japanese cars come with pretty good rads.
The Gti fuel pump would put out to much pressure for my engine.
Hi flat_iv,
the expansion tank lines go to the heater line right at the engine.
Jörg
Hi Rob,
the radiator is of a '82 golf Gti, the fuel pump is a Bosch.
What is a fuel pump damp?
I would not install a Gti radiator again, I would instead choose a full metall (aluminium) radiator ove the plastic/metall ones. A good source for finding the right rad is eBay. You find all measurments there and pictures of the rads, and you can compare prices. The Japanese cars come with pretty good rads.
The Gti fuel pump would put out to much pressure for my engine.
Hi flat_iv,
the expansion tank lines go to the heater line right at the engine.
Jörg
72RSbug ·
@subaruboxer,seems like you have the exact same way of mounting the fan up front.
I have 3 pieces of aloy to mount it but one already broke after about 2 months of driving it.
I have 3 pieces of aloy to mount it but one already broke after about 2 months of driving it.
rubyred ·
oh man, good thing i read this...can someone tell me more about needing the heater to be connected?
i am not using a heater on my ej, and i did actually block the heater tube on the coolant manifold. should i just unplug it, and run a hose connecting the coolant manifold, to the bottom water inlet?
thanks a bunch.
-Ryan
i am not using a heater on my ej, and i did actually block the heater tube on the coolant manifold. should i just unplug it, and run a hose connecting the coolant manifold, to the bottom water inlet?
thanks a bunch.
-Ryan
RobvB ·
I meant the Clamp, the bracket which holds the pump.
I need one of those, but have been unable to find it.
Man, I can't believe how clean that rad install is.... nice work !
Rob.
I need one of those, but have been unable to find it.
Man, I can't believe how clean that rad install is.... nice work !
Rob.
subaruboxer wrote:The new radiator.
Hi Rob,
the radiator is of a '82 golf Gti, the fuel pump is a Bosch.
What is a fuel pump damp?
I would not install a Gti radiator again, I would instead choose a full metall (aluminium) radiator ove the plastic/metall ones. A good source for finding the right rad is eBay. You find all measurments there and pictures of the rads, and you can compare prices. The Japanese cars come with pretty good rads.
The Gti fuel pump would put out to much pressure for my engine.
Hi flat_iv,
the expansion tank lines go to the heater line right at the engine.
Jörg
ricola ·
You will probably find that a VW coil clamp is ideal for most fuel pumps!
Rich
Rich
pete wood ·
Umm, the fuel pump dosen't control the pressure, the pressure regulator does. It's on the left hand rear side of the rear fuel reail as you are facing the engine from the rear of the car.subaruboxer wrote:Hi Rob,
The Gti fuel pump would put out to much pressure for my engine.
Jörg
People use larger fuel pumps for extra fuel flow (hence more HP), not pressure. I am using a (EFI) pump of a 3litre turbo engine that's rated for over 300 HP, as I understand. It doesn't cause pressure problems because the pressure regulator, the factory one I might add, controls the pressure in the lines. You'll only get pressure issues if the regulator isn't working properly.
Just thought you might like to know.
subaruboxer ·
Hi Rich,ricola wrote:You will probably find that a VW coil clamp is ideal for most fuel pumps!
Rich
you are right again, mine is aVW coil clamp too!
Jörg
subaruboxer ·
Umm, the fuel pump dosen't control the pressure, the pressure regulator does. It's on the left hand rear side of the rear fuel reail as you are facing the engine from the rear of the car.
People use larger fuel pumps for extra fuel flow (hence more HP), not pressure. I am using a (EFI) pump of a 3litre turbo engine that's rated for over 300 HP, as I understand. It doesn't cause pressure problems because the pressure regulator, the factory one I might add, controls the pressure in the lines. You'll only get pressure issues if the regulator isn't working properly.
Just thought you might like to know. [/quote]
I didn't say that the pump controlls the pressure. And if you know of the regulator , as I do, you should know that
you can't gain power by installing a fuel pump that puts out more pressure. The regulator keeps the pressure at a certain level, not more or less! If you don't modify the regulator, you put more pressure to the hoses or tubes from the tank to the engine(regulator), but not to the injectors. You can't gain power by adding a stronger fuel pump to a bone stock engine. But you have to install different hoses or tubes for the higher pressure and those are more expensive as is a stronger fuel pump. To me it makes no sense.
Jörg
People use larger fuel pumps for extra fuel flow (hence more HP), not pressure. I am using a (EFI) pump of a 3litre turbo engine that's rated for over 300 HP, as I understand. It doesn't cause pressure problems because the pressure regulator, the factory one I might add, controls the pressure in the lines. You'll only get pressure issues if the regulator isn't working properly.
Just thought you might like to know. [/quote]
I didn't say that the pump controlls the pressure. And if you know of the regulator , as I do, you should know that
you can't gain power by installing a fuel pump that puts out more pressure. The regulator keeps the pressure at a certain level, not more or less! If you don't modify the regulator, you put more pressure to the hoses or tubes from the tank to the engine(regulator), but not to the injectors. You can't gain power by adding a stronger fuel pump to a bone stock engine. But you have to install different hoses or tubes for the higher pressure and those are more expensive as is a stronger fuel pump. To me it makes no sense.
Jörg
subaruboxer ·
Hi Ryan,rubyred wrote:oh man, good thing i read this...can someone tell me more about needing the heater to be connected?
i am not using a heater on my ej, and i did actually block the heater tube on the coolant manifold. should i just unplug it, and run a hose connecting the coolant manifold, to the bottom water inlet?
thanks a bunch.
-Ryan
you should connect the two heater tubes if you have no heater installed.
Jörg
subaruboxer ·
Hi 72rsbug,72RSbug wrote:@subaruboxer,seems like you have the exact same way of mounting the fan up front.
I have 3 pieces of aloy to mount it but one already broke after about 2 months of driving it.
thanks for the note, I will keep an eye on it.
Jörg
pete wood ·
I didn't say that the pump controlls the pressure. And if you know of the regulator , as I do, you should know thatsubaruboxer wrote:Umm, the fuel pump dosen't control the pressure, the pressure regulator does. It's on the left hand rear side of the rear fuel reail as you are facing the engine from the rear of the car.
People use larger fuel pumps for extra fuel flow (hence more HP), not pressure. I am using a (EFI) pump of a 3litre turbo engine that's rated for over 300 HP, as I understand. It doesn't cause pressure problems because the pressure regulator, the factory one I might add, controls the pressure in the lines. You'll only get pressure issues if the regulator isn't working properly.
Just thought you might like to know.
you can't gain power by installing a fuel pump that puts out more pressure. The regulator keeps the pressure at a certain level, not more or less! If you don't modify the regulator, you put more pressure to the hoses or tubes from the tank to the engine(regulator), but not to the injectors. You can't gain power by adding a stronger fuel pump to a bone stock engine. But you have to install different hoses or tubes for the higher pressure and those are more expensive as is a stronger fuel pump. To me it makes no sense.
Jörg [/quote]
I added a stronger pump to a bone stock engine for two reasons. 1. The standard EFi pump for subies is in tank and I needed an external one, and, 2. it was cheaper and more easily available than the stock liberty EFI pump. Besides, if it's stronger then it should be under less stress than the standard one.
It flowing a buck-load more fuel than the standard unit didn't come into the equation really. Just a lucky by-product.
Anyway, I got off topic, sorry. The point I was making was that a more powerful fuel pump won't increase the pressure in your fuel lines, just the amount of fuel flow.nn[ Edited on 23-7-2005 by pete wood ]
subaruboxer ·
Hi Pete,
the subaru fuel pump puts out 2,5 bar pressure and the Gti fuel pump (the one that was talked about) puts out 4,7 to 5,4 bar pressure. That is more than twice the pressure you need for a subie engine. The K-Jetronic is working with this high pressure.
A higher fuel flow doesn't make sense with the regulator, either. The regulator is sending more fuel back to your tank, you have your fuel flowing faster from the tank to the engine and back again.
I understand your situation, it was available cheap and does work of course. But it is nothing to be recommended.
Jörg
the subaru fuel pump puts out 2,5 bar pressure and the Gti fuel pump (the one that was talked about) puts out 4,7 to 5,4 bar pressure. That is more than twice the pressure you need for a subie engine. The K-Jetronic is working with this high pressure.
A higher fuel flow doesn't make sense with the regulator, either. The regulator is sending more fuel back to your tank, you have your fuel flowing faster from the tank to the engine and back again.
I understand your situation, it was available cheap and does work of course. But it is nothing to be recommended.
Jörg
rubyred ·
i think you should counter the big fuel pump with a massive turbo upgrade and some beefy injectors :P
hotdog008 ·
ryan,
you need to run water from the top manifold
to the bottom thermostate housing (easy to use your old heater hose out) so your thermostate works properly
with out this it only sees cool water and will not open untill too late
hotdog ej20t manx
you need to run water from the top manifold
to the bottom thermostate housing (easy to use your old heater hose out) so your thermostate works properly
with out this it only sees cool water and will not open untill too late
hotdog ej20t manx
seagull ·
This is a three row , with a 8" fan I have a small pipe at the top , this returns the water and air back to my fill point & bleeds the system of any air .I have had mine running in the shed , with no problems
Jak & Matt have my header>fill tanks fitted to there WRX machines > and I have not been informed that they had problems with there cars .
To make my set worse I have a wheel smack in the front of my radiator , we will soon see if it gets hot .
Lets see whu can guess what my subaru motor is in now .
Jak & Matt have my header>fill tanks fitted to there WRX machines > and I have not been informed that they had problems with there cars .
To make my set worse I have a wheel smack in the front of my radiator , we will soon see if it gets hot .
Lets see whu can guess what my subaru motor is in now .
pete wood ·
you're a very bad man ruby red, maybe I should report you... 😀rubyred wrote:i think you should counter the big fuel pump with a massive turbo upgrade and some beefy injectors :P
but seriously, I wish, unfortunately the motor is too big to do that legally, and before you suggest it, I'm not doing it illegally either. 😉
pete wood ·
You may be right, but I haven't had an issue yet, and besides the less time the fuel spends near the engine the cooler it stays. Also, as the fuel flows more times it passes throught filter more times, so there is an upside. But I take your concerns. I stop getting off topic now. 🙂subaruboxer wrote:Hi Pete,
the subaru fuel pump puts out 2,5 bar pressure and the Gti fuel pump (the one that was talked about) puts out 4,7 to 5,4 bar pressure. That is more than twice the pressure you need for a subie engine. The K-Jetronic is working with this high pressure.
A higher fuel flow doesn't make sense with the regulator, either. The regulator is sending more fuel back to your tank, you have your fuel flowing faster from the tank to the engine and back again.
I understand your situation, it was available cheap and does work of course. But it is nothing to be recommended.
Jörg
subaruboxer ·
As I had the engine out, for changing the clutch, I took the chance to throw the heater out. I heard that I don't need one to get it registered. A little electric fan to defog the windows is all I need. It was always a little annoying while filling the coolant. This pichture shows how the two heater hoses are connected now. The T-piece goes to the expansion tank.
[ Edited on 14-10-2005 by subaruboxer ]
[ Edited on 14-10-2005 by subaruboxer ]
subaruboxer ·
Had the beetle on the road for a few days, unfortunately the summer is over here, so that it was not possible to do real tests in warm weather. But at a constant speed of 160 kph everything was just fine. When I went 180 kph for 5 minutes the temps went up to 95 degrees. The temp of the of the ambient air was 25 celcius. As I don't like the whole pattern now that I had it on the street, I will let air in to the radiator through the horn grills and the area under the bumper only.
jamesbissland ·
Looks great!!
flat_iv ·
I noticed your reverse water neck.. Did you reweld the end of the neck to clear the engine? Or did you just slide a longer 90 deg. hose to make up the difference? Silicone hose.?
Thanks
Thanks
subaruboxer ·
Hi flat_iv,
i just cut the manifold, took a dremel tool made a groove into it for the hose and put a 90° silicon hose on it. It is a reducer (38 to 32 mm). It did fit perfectly, it is not a longer one.
Jörg
[ Edited on 17-11-2005 by subaruboxer ]
i just cut the manifold, took a dremel tool made a groove into it for the hose and put a 90° silicon hose on it. It is a reducer (38 to 32 mm). It did fit perfectly, it is not a longer one.
Jörg
[ Edited on 17-11-2005 by subaruboxer ]
subaruboxer ·
As I didn´t like the look with the holes in the front, I want to have a sleeper look, I changed it a bit!
Here is what it looks like now!
Here is what it looks like now!
subaruboxer ·
I put hoses (70 mm ) to the horn grills that bring air to the top of the radiator now!
subaruboxer ·
I painted the scoop, and everything else visible black to hide it. Now it is looking pretty stock!
I tested it on the German Autobahn without the hoses to the top of the radiator, at a constant speed of 150 kph it was fine. Faster and the temps went up! Then I connected the hoses to the horn grills, and went three times 180 km/h for 20 minutes. The watertemp was sitting at 90° and the oiltemp at 110°!
Now I have to wait for the summer to come, and we will see what it is like at 30 degrees celcius.
The temp now is 15 to 20 degrees celcius.
I am pretty happy with the way it looks now.
What do you think about it?
[ Edited on 13-1-2007 by subaruboxer ]
[ Edited on 21-4-2007 by subaruboxer ]
I tested it on the German Autobahn without the hoses to the top of the radiator, at a constant speed of 150 kph it was fine. Faster and the temps went up! Then I connected the hoses to the horn grills, and went three times 180 km/h for 20 minutes. The watertemp was sitting at 90° and the oiltemp at 110°!
Now I have to wait for the summer to come, and we will see what it is like at 30 degrees celcius.
The temp now is 15 to 20 degrees celcius.
I am pretty happy with the way it looks now.
What do you think about it?
[ Edited on 13-1-2007 by subaruboxer ]
[ Edited on 21-4-2007 by subaruboxer ]
1303Steve ·
What a sleeper!
Oasis ·
That looks BEAUTIFUL. :thumb
ricola ·
Great job, that looks much better! Nice to know the horn grill ducting makes a noticable difference too 🙂
What's your ground clearance to the bottom of the scoop now?
What's your ground clearance to the bottom of the scoop now?
subaruboxer ·
The scoop is adjustable, I can pull down or push it in. Ground clearance is ca. 3 to 4 " (7,5 - 10 cm) I think.
[ Edited on 13-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
[ Edited on 13-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
72RSbug ·
Great job subaruboxer, you've given us food for thought yet again.
pete wood ·
that is awesome! amazing how just that little bit of extra air makes such a difference too, great idea and a very sensible mod. BTW, I love the look of the car too. I almost feel sorry for all those mercedes/BMW/audi drivers...well almost. 😁
gerrelt ·
Looks great! Nobody would suspect there's a radiator.
Nice, 180 km/h for 20 minutes...sounds like fun!
Greetings,
Gerrelt.
Nice, 180 km/h for 20 minutes...sounds like fun!
Greetings,
Gerrelt.
boof2332 ·
I have those grille slits cut in mine, although it gets much more flow from the scoop under neath. I am also about to put a new, early bonnet on the car so half the grilles will be covered anyway.
Yours is really neat...if you paint the scoop black you can hardly see it at all.
Matt
Yours is really neat...if you paint the scoop black you can hardly see it at all.
Matt
subaruboxer ·
This is the scoop, I made it the with slots instead of holes.
That way I just have to loosen the bolts, to adjust it.
It has the shape of the front apron. Iif it would be straight at the ends, it would be more visible.
That way I just have to loosen the bolts, to adjust it.
It has the shape of the front apron. Iif it would be straight at the ends, it would be more visible.
subaruboxer ·
I used vents out of a Golf (rabbit) dashboard for connecting the hoses to the horn grills. I cut off the end and put it behind the horn grills. You can even use the hoses that are on the vents in the Golf, but I only had one, and didn´t like to put in two different hoses.
GeorgeL ·
It must be tons of fun to have those big Mercs pulling over for you, or do they see your bug, get big eyes, and put their foot in it? 🙂subaruboxer wrote:I tested it on the German Autobahn...went three times 180 kph for 20 minutes.
George
subaruboxer ·
Yes it is a lot of fun. It happens that I pass a car that is going at 150 or 170, the driver is looking over to me in disbelief and then he follows me, to see how fast my bug is. If I know where his topspeed is, I sometimes just drive faster than that, there are a lot of cars here that can´t go faster than 160 !
When I was testing the new setup with the hoses to the horn grills, a Mazda followed me the whole 20 minutes. As I left the Autobahn, he passed me and gave me a thumb up and had a big smile on his face!
When I was testing the new setup with the hoses to the horn grills, a Mazda followed me the whole 20 minutes. As I left the Autobahn, he passed me and gave me a thumb up and had a big smile on his face!
subaruboxer ·
Forgot to post this picture, you can see the space left and right (arrows) and under the radiator is covered. That way all the air got to go through the cooling surface of the radiator. If you want to have little openings in the front of the car, you have to get the rest as effective as possible.
[ Edited on 20-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
[ Edited on 20-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
GeorgeL ·
Good show on the shrouding. Do you experience recirculation with the fan? Seems that air could be pushed through the radiator by the fan, then turn around and recirculate in the area outside the fan.subaruboxer wrote:Forgot to post this picture, you can see the space left and right (arrows) and under the radiator is covered. That way all the air got to go through the cooling surface of the radiator. If you want to have little openings in the front of the car, you have to get the rest as effective as possible.
[ Edited on 20-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
Might be a non-issue if you have good ram air in motion,, but most fan setups I've seen include a shroud that covers the entire radiator.
George
subaruboxer ·
Here a view behind the radiator, all the air is going out down there. I don´t think that there is any recirculation. If so, it could happen only, when the fan comes on. The fan is very rarely coming on, so that is not an issue.
Jörg
Jörg
subaruboxer ·
What's your ground clearance to the bottom of the scoop now? [/quote]
Hi Rich,
measured the ground clearance to the lowest point of the scoop.
It is 10 cm to 12,5 cm. Til now, I drove with the scoop in the highest position. Might need the low position in the summer. Or might not need it, as I will get a new gearbox with longer third and forth gear. The rpm will be some 600 lower than now. That will be a difference!
Jörg
Hi Rich,
measured the ground clearance to the lowest point of the scoop.
It is 10 cm to 12,5 cm. Til now, I drove with the scoop in the highest position. Might need the low position in the summer. Or might not need it, as I will get a new gearbox with longer third and forth gear. The rpm will be some 600 lower than now. That will be a difference!
Jörg
subaruboxer ·
I never liked the routing of the hose to the waterpump around the outside of the engine. Always wanted to change the direction of the hose, to go directly to the front.
Jenny posted a thermostat cover that would be just what I wanted, but I could not get the thermostat cover here in Germany. Sometimes the solution is closer than you might believe! I took a closer look at my daily driver (Subaru Legacy Turbo) Liberty RS! And I could not believe it! It is just what I was looking for!
I ordered a new cover at my friendly Subaru dealership.
Here is how it is looking like.
[ Edited on 30-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
Jenny posted a thermostat cover that would be just what I wanted, but I could not get the thermostat cover here in Germany. Sometimes the solution is closer than you might believe! I took a closer look at my daily driver (Subaru Legacy Turbo) Liberty RS! And I could not believe it! It is just what I was looking for!
I ordered a new cover at my friendly Subaru dealership.
Here is how it is looking like.
[ Edited on 30-5-2006 by subaruboxer ]
subaruboxer ·
It is perfect for my conversion, you see the hose and pipe in the background in this picture. I just have to put a hose from the cover to that pipe, and put the hose coming from the cooling manifold on the engine over to the right pipe. And change the two hoses at the front to the radiator, of course. It is better protected now, and I have a little less coolant in my system!
seagull ·
well thats great .
what headers did you get there mate ?
what headers did you get there mate ?
subaruboxer ·
Hi seagull,
it is an OBX header that is made for the N/A impreza. Will custom fit it now, I am not sure yet about the catalytic converter! Have to pay a higher taxrate without it, but would have estimated 8 horses more without it, too.
Jörg
it is an OBX header that is made for the N/A impreza. Will custom fit it now, I am not sure yet about the catalytic converter! Have to pay a higher taxrate without it, but would have estimated 8 horses more without it, too.
Jörg
72RSbug ·
nice solution on the water pump connection there, to bad that won't work on my EJ20TT. You can polish that part to match the headers by the way (that is if you're a nutter like myself 🙂 )
subaruboxer ·
It is better for me not to polish the cover!
I know, I might end up polishing all the parts and the engine, too! It is hard to stop polishing when you are into it!!
I know, I might end up polishing all the parts and the engine, too! It is hard to stop polishing when you are into it!!
subaruboxer ·
Got the new gearbox today. It has a longer third( 1.22) and fourth (0.82) gear. I am sure this will have an influence on the temps.
[ Edited on 9-6-2006 by subaruboxer ]
[ Edited on 9-6-2006 by subaruboxer ]
subaruboxer ·
Here a few more pictures of the new front!
pete wood ·
damn I love your car. Such a sleeper.👍
Is it lowered much?
Is it lowered much?
subaruboxer ·
Thanks Pete,
it is not lowered that much, the front end a bit more than the rear!
it is not lowered that much, the front end a bit more than the rear!
flat_iv ·
I read where you added a line from the bottom of your expansion tank to the heater circuit. Does your expansion tank have a small line in the top of it? And if so, did you just plug the line up or did you route it back into the cooling system? Great find on the thermostat cover. I have one on order now.
Thanks
Richard
[ Edited on 24/8/2006 by flat_iv ]
Thanks
Richard
[ Edited on 24/8/2006 by flat_iv ]
subaruboxer ·
Hi Richard,
I have a small ( 8 mm ) hose running from the radiator to the top of my expansion tank.
I have a small ( 8 mm ) hose running from the radiator to the top of my expansion tank.
psimitar ·
Sweet motor mate. love the sleeper look cooling solution!!!!
VW1274 ·
awesome sleepy built you got there..😀
psimitar ·
I'm really tempted to see if it's possible to have 2 custom rads either side of the gearbox to do the cooling.
2 reasons. 1) I don't like the idea of having to cut the front end about and 2) hey why not be different 🙂
I do love the sleeper look tho 😎
2 reasons. 1) I don't like the idea of having to cut the front end about and 2) hey why not be different 🙂
I do love the sleeper look tho 😎
Joel ·
people have tried it using motorbike rads and such
the setup works ok at low speeds but the faster you go the worse it gets till you get to the point where the fans cant keep up
Gerrelt went though it with his bug
even with fancy scoops still noone yet has found a way of getting adequate air flow through the rads at speed
Micks bug only had minimal cutting out in the front
the setup works ok at low speeds but the faster you go the worse it gets till you get to the point where the fans cant keep up
Gerrelt went though it with his bug
even with fancy scoops still noone yet has found a way of getting adequate air flow through the rads at speed
Micks bug only had minimal cutting out in the front
psimitar ·
nah, motorbike rads won't cut it. I mean a custom ali 3 core rad on either side of the box and possibly a vaned scoop infront to direct air from top to bottom as a single scoop will only aid flow at the bottom of the rad.
I'm sure it's do-able but not necessarily the cheapest option which the front mounted rad surely is. I'm always one for trying to think of ways to get stuff to work 🙂
I'm sure it's do-able but not necessarily the cheapest option which the front mounted rad surely is. I'm always one for trying to think of ways to get stuff to work 🙂
ian.mezz ·
🤪🙅😂🤪🙅😂🤪
psimitar ·
thats the one 😂
She'll still look like a sleeper, well from the drivers side 😂
She'll still look like a sleeper, well from the drivers side 😂
Joel ·
there was a bug in bastards and abortions thread that had the rad mounted on the roof rack
just put an old esky around it, you'll blend right in with the ratlook pack
just put an old esky around it, you'll blend right in with the ratlook pack
crimson ghost ·
Car is turning out great !!!!
itawolf ·
nice look mate--and alot of good info for us
Done the RX-7 thing in a baja but now going the subie way
Done the RX-7 thing in a baja but now going the subie way
Bugaru03 ·
is there any update be made??
P4UL ·
How did the new gearbox work out?subaruboxer wrote:Got the new gearbox today. It has a longer third( 1.22) and fourth (0.82) gear. I am sure this will have an influence on the temps.
What r&p have you used?
subaruboxer ·
HI Bugaru03,
you are right it is time for an update. Because I havent been here for some time. But I changed my cooling system again.
The radiator is still up front, but the spare wheel is, too.
Take a look at the pictures. I rode it like that for a year.
It was pretty good for our northern climate here in Germany.
The radiator is too small for a hotter climate, for sure.
you are right it is time for an update. Because I havent been here for some time. But I changed my cooling system again.
The radiator is still up front, but the spare wheel is, too.
Take a look at the pictures. I rode it like that for a year.
It was pretty good for our northern climate here in Germany.
The radiator is too small for a hotter climate, for sure.
subaruboxer ·
The core size of the radiator is 535 x 230 mm
Hi P4AUL,
my gearbox is great. I can shift into 4th gear at a mere 40 kph, and the engine is still accelerating fast. Not like in 3rd gear, but strong enough for city traffic. And I can do 200 kph in 4th gear, that is at 5 600 rpm! For a test I once did 6 500 rpm in third gear. I made 175 kph then. I am totally satisfied with the gear box. And r& p are stock.
Cheers Jörg
Hi P4AUL,
my gearbox is great. I can shift into 4th gear at a mere 40 kph, and the engine is still accelerating fast. Not like in 3rd gear, but strong enough for city traffic. And I can do 200 kph in 4th gear, that is at 5 600 rpm! For a test I once did 6 500 rpm in third gear. I made 175 kph then. I am totally satisfied with the gear box. And r& p are stock.
Cheers Jörg
pete wood ·
you're a legend. Always coming up with new ways of making it stealth!
subaruboxer ·
Hi Pete,
thanks, I guess you like it. Here is one more picture.
thanks, I guess you like it. Here is one more picture.
pete wood ·
to say I like it is an understatement. well done!
gerrelt ·
Very nice!! 😎
subaruboxer ·
Hi gerrelt,
Alfa Romeo got a nice radiator in the Alfa 33 Alfasud models, it is
545 x 228 x 40 mm core size. Might use it in the future, with my new body. The beige beetle is gone, now. I did so many cuts and welds to it, I was ready for something better. It is already painted, have to put it back together over the winter.
You have a nice website, by now. And man you have put a lot of effort into your build.
I had some problems with my computer and lost a lot of of pictures of the new body. Just got a few left.
Alfa Romeo got a nice radiator in the Alfa 33 Alfasud models, it is
545 x 228 x 40 mm core size. Might use it in the future, with my new body. The beige beetle is gone, now. I did so many cuts and welds to it, I was ready for something better. It is already painted, have to put it back together over the winter.
You have a nice website, by now. And man you have put a lot of effort into your build.
I had some problems with my computer and lost a lot of of pictures of the new body. Just got a few left.
Joel ·
Thats the one I'm running and its handled plenty of hot aussie temps already, I'm sure one would work well in Germanysubaruboxer wrote:Alfa Romeo got a nice radiator in the Alfa 33 Alfasud models, it is
545 x 228 x 40 mm core size. Might use it in the future, with my new body.
gerrelt ·
Thanx, SubaruBoxer!
Please keep posting updates of your project on here! You do great work.
Please keep posting updates of your project on here! You do great work.
subaruboxer ·
H i Joel,
the alfasud radiator is a bit bigger, and most important, deeper than the Opel radiator. It is surely working over here. But I didn`t expect it to work in your hot climate, too. It is even cheap. A good choice, no need for an expensive race-all-aluminum-radiator.
Hi Gerrelt,
I will keep posting new pictures of the new project.
Here a few more of the new one before getting painted.
Made a bit more space for wider radiators in the front.
And a few holes in the decklid, these are covert by the licenseplate.
the alfasud radiator is a bit bigger, and most important, deeper than the Opel radiator. It is surely working over here. But I didn`t expect it to work in your hot climate, too. It is even cheap. A good choice, no need for an expensive race-all-aluminum-radiator.
Hi Gerrelt,
I will keep posting new pictures of the new project.
Here a few more of the new one before getting painted.
Made a bit more space for wider radiators in the front.
And a few holes in the decklid, these are covert by the licenseplate.
ElusiveStranger ·
Jorgen, what's happened to the beige one? I loved that bug!
Joel ·
The Alfasud and early 33 rads like I've got work well, i know a few people running them with turbo and NA engines, the later 33 like Gerrelts are even bigger again.subaruboxer wrote:H i Joel,
the alfasud radiator is a bit bigger, and most important, deeper than the Opel radiator. It is surely working over here. But I didn`t expect it to work in your hot climate, too. It is even cheap. A good choice, no need for an expensive race-all-aluminum-radiator.
I did look at an Opel corsa rad (SB barina here) as theyre very low profile but theyre also very wide too.
subaruboxer ·
Hi ElusiveStranger,
I loved the beige bug,too. But it was time for a change. When I started the conversion I picked the beige one to be the right one for all the testing that I did. With all the cuts and welding, it was only meant to be the test bug. I always intended to replace it, when I would know what could be done.
I gave it to a friend.
The new bug is VW dove blue, one of my favorite 1960 colours.
Hi Joel,
it is good to know, that the alfasud rad is working fine, even down under. I will use it, it is available here for 50 Euros.
Thanks for the information.
I loved the beige bug,too. But it was time for a change. When I started the conversion I picked the beige one to be the right one for all the testing that I did. With all the cuts and welding, it was only meant to be the test bug. I always intended to replace it, when I would know what could be done.
I gave it to a friend.
The new bug is VW dove blue, one of my favorite 1960 colours.
Hi Joel,
it is good to know, that the alfasud rad is working fine, even down under. I will use it, it is available here for 50 Euros.
Thanks for the information.
subaruboxer ·
Cheers ,
finally I decided (well maybe my beloved wife decided) it is about time to put the bug back on the road.
Here some pics of the painted new body, it was painted in dove blue.
finally I decided (well maybe my beloved wife decided) it is about time to put the bug back on the road.
Here some pics of the painted new body, it was painted in dove blue.
subaruboxer ·
Here two more.
ElusiveStranger ·
Can't wait to see what you do to this. 🙂
Shame you got rid of the old one, that rocked. :'(
Shame you got rid of the old one, that rocked. :'(
madness726 ·
Nice, Looking forward to see what you do with this one.
subaruboxer ·
Here is one of the front, still lots of work left.
New subaru wiring harness and a new exhaust will be made, too.
New subaru wiring harness and a new exhaust will be made, too.
itawolf ·
same year as mine
i cant wait to see urs done
--yet i,ve
got too many irons in the fire
1960 bug ej turbo 50% done
1990 300zx 2+2 now TT and 95% done
1997 4runner with VW 1.9 turbo and 35 mudders 75% done
1999 prelude with h23 turbo 350hp --done
i cant wait to see urs done
--yet i,ve
got too many irons in the fire
1960 bug ej turbo 50% done
1990 300zx 2+2 now TT and 95% done
1997 4runner with VW 1.9 turbo and 35 mudders 75% done
1999 prelude with h23 turbo 350hp --done
sander288 ·
Just re-read this thread; awesome build of the beige bug
Any updates on the Dove Blue beetle?
Any updates on the Dove Blue beetle?
Zaney ·
BUMP for inquiring minds!!!