hey James,
any more pics?
vwtyp2 ·
Aussieveedubbers · VW Drag Racing
chasing sub 12.5's in a 2250lb Fastback
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/37252/chasing-sub-125s-in-a-2250lb-fastback
Fossil ·
that's one hell of a fasty
11CAB ·
There used to be a Fasty up here in QLD that was running a turbo 1916cc and ran 11's from memory.
W.O.F.T.A.M. Racing was the name but it was a full time drag car not a streeter.
W.O.F.T.A.M. Racing was the name but it was a full time drag car not a streeter.
MikeM ·
STI
Doug Sweetman ·
Good looking bus, and I reckon the CDI was a great addition - something I'd love to do with my 1835, it has standard points, coil and 009 dizzy is weak as piss spark.
Craig Torrens ·
what was your terminal speed..............and what is the cc's of your engine ?
dangerous ·
What are the details of the Debiasi diff? What CVs & axles? Same spline @ trans? Regards DB........cool car!
LOWBUG ·
Have you thought of going to EFI, it won't give you any more power, but it may find power the carbs can't, as I found an extra 10 hp by doing this, plus it can refine your tuning on a dyno.
dangerous ·
James, if you are serious about mid 12s in a 2250lb car then you are going to need lots of air flow...lots! That means heads, manifolds, & bigger carb/throttle butterflys. If you want to keep carbs, IDAs will always flow more than IDFs, BUT only if the heads & manifolds are up to it. Most good heads that we have done need the manifold cut in half & ported, the welded back together. Some need welding on the outside too. See if Rene has anything he might pass along..(I doubt it).....oh yeah, prob lots of rpm & camshaft might help, but head flow is a much nicer way to do it. Regards DB. PS any body heard from Dave Prior Lately?
shiftyvw ·
You might need to go through your gearing again if changing to those tyres.
what ratios you got now?
what ratios you got now?
malcolm ·
with that setup is the fuel going to stay atomized to the combustion chamber.
pete wood ·
Out of interest, why did you put the injectors before the turbo instead of on the inlet manifolds?
I would have though the option of intercooling would have been attractive.
I would have though the option of intercooling would have been attractive.
dangerous ·
James, I love the look of that engine! My calcs say that you would only need 200 corrected HP to run 12.50s @ 105 from your 135 HP engine.....still a big ask from a N/A type 1 on pump fuel....but boost will achieve your goal for less money & have much more potential.Good luck !.....Iwould imagine these would be about 115rwhp, & about 170rwhp to compare the FW hp figures above. How did you work out your HP figures?
Cam ·
Flipping hell man, was casually reading through this whole post and the subtle little tweaks to your NA carbie motor then BANG theres a whole change in direction :bounce That turbo motor will be unbelievable! Any chance of it appearing at the jamboree?
boof2332 ·
Regarding the fuel atomisation......the key is the T piece. Apparently when they made the separation point one with a spliced type, they had the problems....when the air and fuel are forced straight into the "T" section, the turbulance assists in keeping the fuel atomized....it is moving a little faster than normal.
Love the set up James....simple and powerful....and not as expensive as some of the options. A draw through was going to be my next step with the 2332 until I decided on the wrx donk.
Good Luck....
Matt
Love the set up James....simple and powerful....and not as expensive as some of the options. A draw through was going to be my next step with the 2332 until I decided on the wrx donk.
Good Luck....
Matt
Cam ·
LOL, I just looked at the date of the turbo pic's post and realised it was only a few days ago, d'oh:blush. I'll have to cruise down to one of the drag nights to see it run once its done.
pete wood ·
I have to say, I'm still surprised that you are going with a draw through setup as opposed to EFI.
The reason I say this is I talked to the owner of the grey C&V drag beetle at last years drags and he was running a draw through setup but was changing over to EFI. The reason was this. With a plenum full of fuel/air and nitrous mix he couldn't use a rev limiter. They tried it once and it blew the plenum to pieces.
How are you gonna get round the revlimiter issue?
The other thing is, without some form of intercooling you won't get nearly as much power as the engine should be capable of. How are you gonna intercool it?
Sorry if I sound negative, just interested.
Love a fasty, can't wait to hear how it goes. 🙂
The reason I say this is I talked to the owner of the grey C&V drag beetle at last years drags and he was running a draw through setup but was changing over to EFI. The reason was this. With a plenum full of fuel/air and nitrous mix he couldn't use a rev limiter. They tried it once and it blew the plenum to pieces.
How are you gonna get round the revlimiter issue?
The other thing is, without some form of intercooling you won't get nearly as much power as the engine should be capable of. How are you gonna intercool it?
Sorry if I sound negative, just interested.
Love a fasty, can't wait to hear how it goes. 🙂
Doug Sweetman ·
With the intake temps you usually see on a draw through setup you should have no worries keeping fuel atomised - flash point of petrol is ~35 - 40° and you intake temps will be in the 90's or thereabouts by the end of the run I guess.
That setup will kick ass. You should have oodles of power, the trick is going to be to keep it in close enough tune that no damage is done. If I remember rightly, Volkommen Art have done a few draw through setups before havent they ?
Considered water / methanol injection in lieu of intercooling ?
That setup will kick ass. You should have oodles of power, the trick is going to be to keep it in close enough tune that no damage is done. If I remember rightly, Volkommen Art have done a few draw through setups before havent they ?
Considered water / methanol injection in lieu of intercooling ?
vwfastback ·
I have considered that Doug. I am running a mallory CDI which has rev controlled switches. By putting an inline switch in, I could have the injection come on at 3000 rpm though to redline if I wanted.
It is going to take some watching and modifing to get the most out of the engine. I expect to take some time to get this to it's limit. There is a lot that can be modifed and tuned.
Chassis tuning is going to be a major limitation as well. There is a lot to work on this project to get the most out of it.
With the space in the fastback, I can allways go from draw through to blow through later if I want to intercool it. It will build off what I currently have.
Cheers,
James C.
It is going to take some watching and modifing to get the most out of the engine. I expect to take some time to get this to it's limit. There is a lot that can be modifed and tuned.
Chassis tuning is going to be a major limitation as well. There is a lot to work on this project to get the most out of it.
With the space in the fastback, I can allways go from draw through to blow through later if I want to intercool it. It will build off what I currently have.
Cheers,
James C.
vwtool ·
There are problems with intercooling a draw through. If you try and cool the air prior to the turbo it will just get hot anyway, and forcing air/fuel mix through an intercooler after a turbo could have atomization issues as well as the alloy bomb you have created.....Very hard to get blow through set ups working well when still using carbs...have to go injection then, so just use a ford throttle body and keep everything where it is now......Lots of fun to have first....has the 4 barrel got the boost enrichment valve?
vwfastback ·
The 4 barrel has been prepared by RLR in the US for Turbo use on a VW engine.
I will not be going for an intercooler while draw through. There are other ways of lowering temps that I can use if I need to. Charge cooling, alky/water injection, small nitrous hit. There are lots of ways.
Keeping it simple to start. See where it leads after that.
Cheers,
James C.
I will not be going for an intercooler while draw through. There are other ways of lowering temps that I can use if I need to. Charge cooling, alky/water injection, small nitrous hit. There are lots of ways.
Keeping it simple to start. See where it leads after that.
Cheers,
James C.
Doug Sweetman ·
Smart move James. I have a feeling that once you get your 250 - 270 HP in the back of the fastback then that will be plenty of power until you get the chassis properly sorted eh ?
pete wood ·
whats a 4 barrel form RLR worth?
AdrianH ·
Awesome work !! With the torque that thing will produce, have you done anymore to the rest of the driveline ? What sort of clutch set up are you going to use ?
Doug Sweetman ·
Sweet !
I had been wondering where you went... greatly enjoying reading this build story !
Smart changes in the top end department too .
I had been wondering where you went... greatly enjoying reading this build story !
Smart changes in the top end department too .
vwtyp2 ·
wow.
sounds like you've got it sorted James.
Haven't caught up in a while.
keen to see some more pics of the engine back in the car.
Can't wait to see it run.
Good luck.
sounds like you've got it sorted James.
Haven't caught up in a while.
keen to see some more pics of the engine back in the car.
Can't wait to see it run.
Good luck.
Golde60 ·
keep up the good work
wots the latest?
running in the car yet??
wots the latest?
running in the car yet??
Turbo54 ·
Hi, good to see another street turbo being built. Can you give specs on cam grind.
Cheers, Turbo54
Cheers, Turbo54
GoLfMan ·
looking good mate:bounce
pete wood ·
how does the boot close?
mattie ·
thats F^^&$ng loco!! bet you cant wait to drive her hey!!
squizy ·
Awesome. 👍 Looking forward to seeing the results.
Boostn ·
looking good James, I'm getting jealous!
OvalGlen ·
excellent stuff.!
Any chance of a pic of how the boot looks closed with
the offset, I am doing similar on the Beetle and
just wondered how it looks on the Fastback.?
Any chance of a pic of how the boot looks closed with
the offset, I am doing similar on the Beetle and
just wondered how it looks on the Fastback.?
LOWBUG ·
Man, nice work. I've just done the same thing in a beetle. I've only done about 100 Km's to run it in and now its time to really tune it, the fact that i'm going to get more out of this engine blows me away.
Through the little experiance I've had doing this, I must say I'm concerned that you will have problems with heat, what sort of boost do you think you'll run?
Good Luck
Through the little experiance I've had doing this, I must say I'm concerned that you will have problems with heat, what sort of boost do you think you'll run?
Good Luck
no slow 63 ·
I can't wait to see it go James, when do you think you will be taking it out?
GoLfMan ·
how far off is it now mate?
Boostn ·
James,
I'm glad that you are not planning on driving it in the wet.
Traction is going to be a problem in the dry.
Hey Mark is your crazy slammed 63 bug engineered yet?
Has the engineer approved your 2387 T66 fuel injected intercooled street package yet?
Word on the street is that your car is nearly ready.
I'm glad that you are not planning on driving it in the wet.
Traction is going to be a problem in the dry.
Hey Mark is your crazy slammed 63 bug engineered yet?
Has the engineer approved your 2387 T66 fuel injected intercooled street package yet?
Word on the street is that your car is nearly ready.
no slow 63 ·
It's getting there Nick...
pete wood ·
VWfastback, is it going yet?
vwtyp2 ·
you must have some new pics to post by now James.
Boostn ·
Is it running yet James???
GoLfMan ·
yes i agree, your keeping us in the lurch!vwtyp2 wrote:you must have some new pics to post by now James.
how far away now? :alien
LOWBUG ·
Strange I run a full EFI system on my turbo and I have no serge tank with a small return line and have no trouble.
What are you going to do to control pining.
Keep up the good work
What are you going to do to control pining.
Keep up the good work
BUGBOY ·
Hey Nick can I swap my turbo setup for a big one like James. LOL
Looks like your up for some fun James.
Looks like your up for some fun James.
Boostn ·
This thing will make a lot of power with no pinging!!!!!LOWBUG wrote:Strange I run a full EFI system on my turbo and I have no serge tank with a small return line and have no trouble.
What are you going to do to control pining.
Keep up the good work
Pinging is a BIG problem.
Doug Sweetman ·
Good stuff, what a teaser !!!!
This would be a pretty big sleeper on the street !!!!!
This would be a pretty big sleeper on the street !!!!!
pete wood ·
dude I feel seriously sorry for all the V8 meatheads in Adelaide. 😂
BUGBOY ·
I`m glad you still have room in the back for a overnight bag James!
Looking good , keep up the work mate and just put on some warm clothes.nn[ Edited on 15-8-2005 by BUGBOY ]
Looking good , keep up the work mate and just put on some warm clothes.nn[ Edited on 15-8-2005 by BUGBOY ]
vwfastback ·
It lives.
Couldn't wait for the cable to be finished.
Had to adjust the idle up a bit, pump the accelerator arm (An unbelievable flow of fuel comes out!)
Turned it over and about 2 seconds later, she roared and spluttered.
Gave it a bit more of idle adjustment, pumped it and turned it over again.
This time she bit and stayed going. pumped the accelerator a bit and she barked loud.
I let her run for a minute, she is a bit rough, but will just idle under 2000 rpm. At 2000 she idles nicely. Like the webers did at 700rpm.....
With the dump pipe on she is noisy. Much more than the Webers ever were, even with the stinger on the exhaust.
Now I just have to get that accellerator cable finished. I am dying to tune and get this out to play.
Cheers,
James C. (Smiling like a mad man)
Couldn't wait for the cable to be finished.
Had to adjust the idle up a bit, pump the accelerator arm (An unbelievable flow of fuel comes out!)
Turned it over and about 2 seconds later, she roared and spluttered.
Gave it a bit more of idle adjustment, pumped it and turned it over again.
This time she bit and stayed going. pumped the accelerator a bit and she barked loud.
I let her run for a minute, she is a bit rough, but will just idle under 2000 rpm. At 2000 she idles nicely. Like the webers did at 700rpm.....
With the dump pipe on she is noisy. Much more than the Webers ever were, even with the stinger on the exhaust.
Now I just have to get that accellerator cable finished. I am dying to tune and get this out to play.
Cheers,
James C. (Smiling like a mad man)
vwtyp2 ·
Good stuff James.
I'm excited for you.
Can't wait to see it in the flesh.
:bounce
I'm excited for you.
Can't wait to see it in the flesh.
:bounce
Boostn ·
Hey Petepete wood wrote:dude I feel seriously sorry for all the V8 meatheads in Adelaide. 😂
James lives in Victoria now.
Vollkommen Art built his engine and turbo kit.
GoLfMan ·
AWESOME!!!! next stop drag strip... :party
58bbugger ·
WOW
That looks like a yankee:thumb turbo kit.
The Holley works well over there, I have seen them run eights.
A hot old skool look for the fast back.
Keep up the good work, VERY IMPRESSED !!!!!!!:thumb:thumb:thumb
That looks like a yankee:thumb turbo kit.
The Holley works well over there, I have seen them run eights.
A hot old skool look for the fast back.
Keep up the good work, VERY IMPRESSED !!!!!!!:thumb:thumb:thumb
pete wood ·
Cool, so go harrass some V8 meatheads there.Boostn wrote:Hey Petepete wood wrote:dude I feel seriously sorry for all the V8 meatheads in Adelaide. 😂
James lives in Victoria now.
Vollkommen Art built his engine and turbo kit.
BTW, never even hear of Vollkommen before.
ruckus ·
People usually go nuts about them after they see their cars in shows in Vic. I know I did until I heard how much that sort of quality costs... a little beyond my meagre budget.
Boostn ·
pete wood wrote:Cool, so go harrass some V8 meatheads there.Boostn wrote:Hey Petepete wood wrote:dude I feel seriously sorry for all the V8 meatheads in Adelaide. 😂
James lives in Victoria now.
Vollkommen Art built his engine and turbo kit.
BTW, never even hear of Vollkommen before.
Hey Pete,
In 1997 Vollkommen Art had an 1835 turbo street bug running 11.23 @ 124. It was in fast fours and it's in the top 50. And still is Australias fastest street reged and engineered vw.(on street tyres)
The black notch with the lemon interior at the 2004 easter nats, won best mod T3 and overall points.
:thumb
Boostn ·
Thanks for the complements dude, but Vollkommen Art cater for all needs and budgets. Not everything we do is over the top, but we do believe in doing things once and properly, saving the customer money in the long run.ruckus wrote:People usually go nuts about them after they see their cars in shows in Vic. I know I did until I heard how much that sort of quality costs... a little beyond my meagre budget.
James's engine was what normally would be considered a tuff street engine. But he decided to make various internal changes, from good parts to better, to improve the reliability and power with piece of mind. This upgrade was not cheap, but he has done it properly and will cost less in the long run.
We have done these packages in the past and on a soft street tune 250 kw (335hp) @ the wheels will not be a problem. :thumb
Doug Sweetman ·
The beetlw you are talking about, was that the baby / sky blue mid 60's one with the draw thru turbo and a big sidedraft weber on it ?
I remember reading that issue and thinking, man what a nasty looking engine !!!! I've heard alot about the black notch but havent seen any photos.
I remember reading that issue and thinking, man what a nasty looking engine !!!! I've heard alot about the black notch but havent seen any photos.
Boostn ·
Doug,
That's the one but it is aqua blue.
That's the one but it is aqua blue.
Boostn ·
James
Are you going to Heathcoat this Sunday??
Are you going to Heathcoat this Sunday??
VWCOOL ·
lol... Fastbax Hoodjax!vwfastback wrote:Here is the offset of the decklid when shut.
This makes a huge difference when driving.
vwfastback ·
Finally got the accelerator cable sussed out.
It is getting harder to find carb connection pieces around these days. FInally sourced a cable nut and bold to connect to the holley.
To get the cable around the fan shroud, used a 1.5cm length of tube steel. Bent and cut to shape.
Inside that a length of bicycle brake shroud.
The cable is a lenth of stainless steel cable from a boating shop. Have cut to suit.
Found that the problem was the cable wouldn't return.
Went to visit good old bunnings and went through and found an appropriate spring.
Works a treat. Got the idle set up and thought I would try to record it. File is 1.7mg. Am still learning about saving the different formats.
Not much to see really, some smoke and stuff. REducing the file to this size stops the vision of the engine shaking, the movement of the fuel pressure.
You can hear the holley fuel pump initially. I get the car to an idle at 1900rpm and then rev to only 4300 rpm. It sounds good from inside, can't wait to get it to 7500 on the track.
Click here for 1.7m video of Fastback startup
Its close. Soon Boostn, soon.
It is getting harder to find carb connection pieces around these days. FInally sourced a cable nut and bold to connect to the holley.
To get the cable around the fan shroud, used a 1.5cm length of tube steel. Bent and cut to shape.
Inside that a length of bicycle brake shroud.
The cable is a lenth of stainless steel cable from a boating shop. Have cut to suit.
Found that the problem was the cable wouldn't return.
Went to visit good old bunnings and went through and found an appropriate spring.
Works a treat. Got the idle set up and thought I would try to record it. File is 1.7mg. Am still learning about saving the different formats.
Not much to see really, some smoke and stuff. REducing the file to this size stops the vision of the engine shaking, the movement of the fuel pressure.
You can hear the holley fuel pump initially. I get the car to an idle at 1900rpm and then rev to only 4300 rpm. It sounds good from inside, can't wait to get it to 7500 on the track.
Click here for 1.7m video of Fastback startup
Its close. Soon Boostn, soon.
Boostn ·
Let's go Racing !!
Boostn ·
Let's go Racing !!
humpty ·
Right...
Now we have the start up vid...How about some action....
You know the stuff we're after...Demo's in the staging lane, HSV's for breaky (EZ), the odd 'Godzilla' for lunch (bit tougher), some RX's for dinner (Hmm?) and finish off with a Superbike of two (ooohh yeah!)....
he, he...
Can't wait!
Now we have the start up vid...How about some action....
You know the stuff we're after...Demo's in the staging lane, HSV's for breaky (EZ), the odd 'Godzilla' for lunch (bit tougher), some RX's for dinner (Hmm?) and finish off with a Superbike of two (ooohh yeah!)....
he, he...
Can't wait!
pete wood ·
Love the vid.
I'm sure I spied a bloody big grin on the owner's face as he walked past at the end. 😉 😀
I'm sure I spied a bloody big grin on the owner's face as he walked past at the end. 😉 😀
Midlife crisis ·
Great Vid, Can't wait to see it on the test run up and down the street.
Marc
Marc
vwfastback ·
Hard not to smile with that sound after 18 months of planning and 12 months of having it built.
Prior to the dumping of rain last weekend, I did attempt to get the beast out of a "test" drive to the end of the road and back. (I am on a country road with only 3 house and no through road.)
Could not get the clutch to engage. Raised the car up and tightened the cable. All ok again.
More serious is though, with the engine now in the car, the extra weight of the plumbing and turbo brings the wheel guard down on the DOT tires. No problems with the origional, but they will not handle the power down the track.
I will need to see if I can tune the suspension for the weight, roll the guards and see about machining the spacers. It is close, but not quite ready for the track.
Pulled the plugs as well, and it is running quite rich. Will need to get it tuned correctly. I can tune the idle, but have no idea on the jetting on this yet. Will have to wait until I race to judge the mixtures.
Finally, waiting on delivery of the boost module for the Mallory. Will be able to set it up to alter timing depending on the boost level.
Will update as we get closer.
James C
Prior to the dumping of rain last weekend, I did attempt to get the beast out of a "test" drive to the end of the road and back. (I am on a country road with only 3 house and no through road.)
Could not get the clutch to engage. Raised the car up and tightened the cable. All ok again.
More serious is though, with the engine now in the car, the extra weight of the plumbing and turbo brings the wheel guard down on the DOT tires. No problems with the origional, but they will not handle the power down the track.
I will need to see if I can tune the suspension for the weight, roll the guards and see about machining the spacers. It is close, but not quite ready for the track.
Pulled the plugs as well, and it is running quite rich. Will need to get it tuned correctly. I can tune the idle, but have no idea on the jetting on this yet. Will have to wait until I race to judge the mixtures.
Finally, waiting on delivery of the boost module for the Mallory. Will be able to set it up to alter timing depending on the boost level.
Will update as we get closer.
James C
hypo-vw ·
been watching the build-up , looks great James , well done . Can't wait to see and hear this beast go !! This will be a true surprise packet for anyone trying to take it on .
tassupervee ·
Just sussing out the pix above .Firstly, nice work M8, noiyce!
One thing to consider with Holleys and some downdraft Webers.
They are designed to exploit acceleration G's to raise and lower fuel level relative to the metering block. Ie: the fule runs away from or toward the metering block altering the effective fuel height at the metering block.
This is to enrich the mixture on hard acceleration and climbing hills to help deal with heat buildup and detonation issues, the reverse is true on decel and downhill.
On this particular arrangement, the primaries are in the right side which *can* result in leaning out on hard left hand corners as the fuel will run away from the metering block.
Many Weber and Holley setups inexplicably stall on violent braking at very low speed and this is a major reason as the fuel will run away from the metering block, hence leaning out the mixtures.Its bloody irritating but a fact of life.
Im not entirely sure how things are dealt with with the secondary throats however as at first glance, the reverse must be true and the secondaries would appear to compensate and vice versa. I imagine that Holley wouild be on top of this being a long performing horsepower carb so this might be worth researching further.
It may be a minor point in a straigh line and a relatively low powered/low tech shopping trolley as the change of mixture is insignificant when fuel level changes across the car but worthy of consideration when you start to get serious with this force-fed thing. The thing will be on plenty of boost and revs and not necessarily have the Vac secondaries open.
Many years ago a M8 of mine discovered this with his 283 Chev inboard boat with a 500 2 bbl Holley mounted with the float chamber rearwards. It was done this way due to the ease of throttle cables and lack of knowledge.
As soon as the nose of the boat climbed up from a standing start, the thing would detonate and loose power, yet, it ran beautifully under full power when level and planing.
It required really major jetting and powervalve changes to compensate and the end result was dismal fuel economy and poor W.O.T. performance.
Anyway, enough thread hijacking.
Just something to ponder in your chase for big numbers.
L8tr
E
One thing to consider with Holleys and some downdraft Webers.
They are designed to exploit acceleration G's to raise and lower fuel level relative to the metering block. Ie: the fule runs away from or toward the metering block altering the effective fuel height at the metering block.
This is to enrich the mixture on hard acceleration and climbing hills to help deal with heat buildup and detonation issues, the reverse is true on decel and downhill.
On this particular arrangement, the primaries are in the right side which *can* result in leaning out on hard left hand corners as the fuel will run away from the metering block.
Many Weber and Holley setups inexplicably stall on violent braking at very low speed and this is a major reason as the fuel will run away from the metering block, hence leaning out the mixtures.Its bloody irritating but a fact of life.
Im not entirely sure how things are dealt with with the secondary throats however as at first glance, the reverse must be true and the secondaries would appear to compensate and vice versa. I imagine that Holley wouild be on top of this being a long performing horsepower carb so this might be worth researching further.
It may be a minor point in a straigh line and a relatively low powered/low tech shopping trolley as the change of mixture is insignificant when fuel level changes across the car but worthy of consideration when you start to get serious with this force-fed thing. The thing will be on plenty of boost and revs and not necessarily have the Vac secondaries open.
Many years ago a M8 of mine discovered this with his 283 Chev inboard boat with a 500 2 bbl Holley mounted with the float chamber rearwards. It was done this way due to the ease of throttle cables and lack of knowledge.
As soon as the nose of the boat climbed up from a standing start, the thing would detonate and loose power, yet, it ran beautifully under full power when level and planing.
It required really major jetting and powervalve changes to compensate and the end result was dismal fuel economy and poor W.O.T. performance.
Anyway, enough thread hijacking.
Just something to ponder in your chase for big numbers.
L8tr
E
58bbugger ·
Hey mate, you should post you pics on the turbo monster post !
vwfastback ·
27/8, I ordered the boost retard module for the mallory. It arrived today from the US. Shipping wasn't the problem. Supply of a cable was.
The engine can now undergo some shake down testing. A street exhaust has been added, and limited boost dialed in. Boost 98 from united fuels is the fuel of choice for 15 pound of boost. 10% ethernol in a street legal fuel is a good thing.
All things going well, should be back to the track very shortly. Should have something to post soon.
James C.
The engine can now undergo some shake down testing. A street exhaust has been added, and limited boost dialed in. Boost 98 from united fuels is the fuel of choice for 15 pound of boost. 10% ethernol in a street legal fuel is a good thing.
All things going well, should be back to the track very shortly. Should have something to post soon.
James C.
vwfastback ·
No sooner than the car is complete, than I am about to pull it apart again.
The engine has been tuned in the car, and the bugs ironed out.
I have never been in a vw like this. I like it.
The boost is an amazing thing. It doesn't come on really until 3 gear, and then not until the revs are high, but when it does, it pulls like a steam train. This is going to be an amazing car on the track.
To give an idea on the power on a set of sticky street yokohamas at the rear, with two people in the car, a launch was tested. First and second gear is noisy and get moving quickly. Third gear revs nicely, then the boost comes on. Changing at approx 6500 RPM, to fourth, the boost stays on.
The car continues to accelerate, straight, while the wheels start spinning due to loss of traction. Tyres then grab and away it goes.
I was happy with that, until I worked back the maths. Changing from 3rd to 4th, the car was doing about 70mph when it started spinning the tyres. (This was of course on a private road...)
I am very, very happy with that.
There is another month until the next test and tune at Heathcote. I am going to take the opportunity to have all the new plumbing HPC'd to protect it. I will remove all the goodies surrounding the engine, and send them off to be protected and made shiny.
I think that I will make my goal with this setup.
Cheers,
James C.
The engine has been tuned in the car, and the bugs ironed out.
I have never been in a vw like this. I like it.
The boost is an amazing thing. It doesn't come on really until 3 gear, and then not until the revs are high, but when it does, it pulls like a steam train. This is going to be an amazing car on the track.
To give an idea on the power on a set of sticky street yokohamas at the rear, with two people in the car, a launch was tested. First and second gear is noisy and get moving quickly. Third gear revs nicely, then the boost comes on. Changing at approx 6500 RPM, to fourth, the boost stays on.
The car continues to accelerate, straight, while the wheels start spinning due to loss of traction. Tyres then grab and away it goes.
I was happy with that, until I worked back the maths. Changing from 3rd to 4th, the car was doing about 70mph when it started spinning the tyres. (This was of course on a private road...)
I am very, very happy with that.
There is another month until the next test and tune at Heathcote. I am going to take the opportunity to have all the new plumbing HPC'd to protect it. I will remove all the goodies surrounding the engine, and send them off to be protected and made shiny.
I think that I will make my goal with this setup.
Cheers,
James C.
Alex Holzl ·
WOW!!! sounds like shes alot of fun!!
How come it doesnt boost up in 1st and 2nd and untill high revs?
alex
How come it doesnt boost up in 1st and 2nd and untill high revs?
alex
tassupervee ·
Hehehehehe welcome to the world of very larger turbos drawing thru a carby and long inlet runners!!
You wont be wanting keep thats setup for long M8.
When you do change, you will wonder why you ever bothered with the carb. Such is the improvement!
Good luck with it tho.
l8tr
E
You wont be wanting keep thats setup for long M8.
When you do change, you will wonder why you ever bothered with the carb. Such is the improvement!
Good luck with it tho.
l8tr
E
dangerous ·
I have found that a really tall first gear helps turbo cars.
Like a 3.00 ratio with 3.875 diff...even with tall tyres.
Like a 3.00 ratio with 3.875 diff...even with tall tyres.
shiftyvw ·
I think im going to with a similar setup after some thought, Old School Power!
Alex Holzl ·
That looks like a VERY short inlet track to me... Maybe just a huge turbo and doesnt spoll up early???
Alex
Alex
tassupervee wrote:Hehehehehe welcome to the world of very larger turbos drawing thru a carby and long inlet runners!!
You wont be wanting keep thats setup for long M8.
When you do change, you will wonder why you ever bothered with the carb. Such is the improvement!
Good luck with it tho.
l8tr
E
shiftyvw ·
whats your impressiuon of driving it normally so far? a pig off boost or not too bad?
tassupervee ·
Err.... you call that short??Alex Holzl wrote:That looks like a VERY short inlet track to me... Maybe just a huge turbo and doesnt spoll up early???
Id call it at least a meter from the carb to the valve plus a plenum on top of the runners just to stall things up further. Big volume, long distance.
Believe me dude thats seriously L o n g!.....
For a pull-thru carb setup that is.
L8tr
E
Alex Holzl ·
oh yeah for a setup like that, but not compared to your normal intercooled setup...
alex
alex
tassupervee ·
Waaaaaay long, however not much choice with a pull-thru arrangement on a boxer engine.
I would have retained the original Weber setup and blown thru them.
Webers make an excellent turbo carb with some minor alterations and with the carbs directly on top of the inlet ports, things would happen really nicely on that setup.
The length of the tubing bact to the turbo then becomes irrelevant.
Throttle response and driveability increases/improves dramatically, boost lag decreases significantly and intercooling becomes a reality.
Fuel condensation in all that tubing does not happen when cold and tuning becomes a far simpler affair with very little variation compared with the mixture variations on a pull-thru setup. You can NEVER get it right most of the time.
I have utilliesd both draw-thru and pull-thru affairs with a variety of carbs on the same engine and the difference is absolutely spectacular apart from absolutely wide open throttle on boost!
However, I did find that the mixture atomisation from passing thru the compressor resulted in, at the end of the day, slightly better fuel consumption in the draw-thru setup every time.
The only trickery for blow-thru is an EFI fuel pump and a boost controlled fuel pressure regulator.
L8tr
E
I would have retained the original Weber setup and blown thru them.
Webers make an excellent turbo carb with some minor alterations and with the carbs directly on top of the inlet ports, things would happen really nicely on that setup.
The length of the tubing bact to the turbo then becomes irrelevant.
Throttle response and driveability increases/improves dramatically, boost lag decreases significantly and intercooling becomes a reality.
Fuel condensation in all that tubing does not happen when cold and tuning becomes a far simpler affair with very little variation compared with the mixture variations on a pull-thru setup. You can NEVER get it right most of the time.
I have utilliesd both draw-thru and pull-thru affairs with a variety of carbs on the same engine and the difference is absolutely spectacular apart from absolutely wide open throttle on boost!
However, I did find that the mixture atomisation from passing thru the compressor resulted in, at the end of the day, slightly better fuel consumption in the draw-thru setup every time.
The only trickery for blow-thru is an EFI fuel pump and a boost controlled fuel pressure regulator.
L8tr
E
Boostn ·
The car has NO problem spooling up, in any gear. The T60 turbo comes alive around 20 psi, but is only set up on 15 psi until James gets used to driving a turbo car. It takes time to learn how to drive and get the feel of a drawthrough turbo VW with a T60 and a Holley 750.
This is a power set up and is designed for big boost.A smaller less powerful set up would be easier to drive.
This is a power set up and is designed for big boost.A smaller less powerful set up would be easier to drive.
tassupervee ·
Thats right, it takes time to get used to a drawthru setup!
Takes far less time to get used to a blowthru setup.
The difference is dramatic. However, whatever gives you a stiffy.
For mine, pull thru setups are very "how ya goin".
L8tr
E
Takes far less time to get used to a blowthru setup.
The difference is dramatic. However, whatever gives you a stiffy.
For mine, pull thru setups are very "how ya goin".
L8tr
E
Boostn ·
[ Edited on 8/11/2005 by Boostn ]
Boostn ·
Boostn ·
GoLfMan ·
:beer:party i love it james now i just gotta see it in person
[ Edited on 9/11/2005 by GoLfMan ]
[ Edited on 9/11/2005 by GoLfMan ]
vwfastback ·
Time to play.
Heathcote is on tomorrow and the car is on the trailer.
Weather is going to be hot, but at least no chance of rain.
All I want out of tomorrow is a non-broken car and driver. Time to shake down and debug issues. I want to see how it launchs, how it runs, and how it handles RPM.
James C.
Heathcote is on tomorrow and the car is on the trailer.
Weather is going to be hot, but at least no chance of rain.
All I want out of tomorrow is a non-broken car and driver. Time to shake down and debug issues. I want to see how it launchs, how it runs, and how it handles RPM.
James C.
ian.mezz ·
keep us up to speed matey ,looks great ,good luck
:bounce
:bounce
dangerous ·
How'd you go?
Dying to hear!
Dying to hear!
Doug Sweetman ·
one little NOS shot would spool that baby up nice n quick 🙂
This car would be great to see in the flesh ! hope you had an enjoyable evening at HEathcote !
This car would be great to see in the flesh ! hope you had an enjoyable evening at HEathcote !
vwfastback ·
Every have on of those days that you shouldn't get out of bed?
Packed the night before, car on trailer for an early trip. Travel time is approx 3hours.
Left home at 8:00. At 8:00:30 tow car lost traction on gravel road (approx 30 degrees). Road is very dry and recently had gravel laid on it. Attempted to reverse car and tralier back to yard around a 90 degree corner. Trailer made it, car on wrong angle. No traction to straighten. Car now bogged to axles.
Unloaded car off trailer.
Unhooked trailer from car. Move trailer down to flat spot oy a series of wheel choks.
Did out tow car from being bogged.
Repair road.
Connect trailer and drive to top of hill. Drive race car to top of hill.
Reload trailer. Drive to main road. Time now 09:30.
Drive to Servo for 20 litres of Optimax 100. Attendant stuffs up and charges different customer to my card. Has to reverse it out. Take 3 attepts and 2 calls. Time now 10:30.
Get to racetrack. Time 13:00
Unload and drive to scruitenering.
Scruitenering find oil leak around pump. Somewhere between loading on Saturday and unloading at track, car has developed a leak under pressure at the pump.
Car rejected from track. Attempted to fix but to no avail. Car reloaded on trailer to headback to Melb.
Did enjoy the time at heathcote though. Nick's beast is going through some tuning as well and a very, very lazy start and run saw him through the traps on a slow 12.2 @128mph. That will be one real quick car when completed.
Tony Rigoli's blue WRX went one run for the day. He drove up to near the start, added some more air to a tyre. Put on a racesuit, drove to the start.
Did a 4wd burnout and then ran a 8.96@154mph at 38degrees air temp.
He then drove it back slowly, and reparked it back in the garage. No tow car needed. Very, very impressive.
Back to my car though. To get to the pump, the exhaust kit needs to be removed and pulley taken off. It is happending this week, and then put back waiting for the next chance to take it to the track.
All, in all, should have stayed in bed.
Packed the night before, car on trailer for an early trip. Travel time is approx 3hours.
Left home at 8:00. At 8:00:30 tow car lost traction on gravel road (approx 30 degrees). Road is very dry and recently had gravel laid on it. Attempted to reverse car and tralier back to yard around a 90 degree corner. Trailer made it, car on wrong angle. No traction to straighten. Car now bogged to axles.
Unloaded car off trailer.
Unhooked trailer from car. Move trailer down to flat spot oy a series of wheel choks.
Did out tow car from being bogged.
Repair road.
Connect trailer and drive to top of hill. Drive race car to top of hill.
Reload trailer. Drive to main road. Time now 09:30.
Drive to Servo for 20 litres of Optimax 100. Attendant stuffs up and charges different customer to my card. Has to reverse it out. Take 3 attepts and 2 calls. Time now 10:30.
Get to racetrack. Time 13:00
Unload and drive to scruitenering.
Scruitenering find oil leak around pump. Somewhere between loading on Saturday and unloading at track, car has developed a leak under pressure at the pump.
Car rejected from track. Attempted to fix but to no avail. Car reloaded on trailer to headback to Melb.
Did enjoy the time at heathcote though. Nick's beast is going through some tuning as well and a very, very lazy start and run saw him through the traps on a slow 12.2 @128mph. That will be one real quick car when completed.
Tony Rigoli's blue WRX went one run for the day. He drove up to near the start, added some more air to a tyre. Put on a racesuit, drove to the start.
Did a 4wd burnout and then ran a 8.96@154mph at 38degrees air temp.
He then drove it back slowly, and reparked it back in the garage. No tow car needed. Very, very impressive.
Back to my car though. To get to the pump, the exhaust kit needs to be removed and pulley taken off. It is happending this week, and then put back waiting for the next chance to take it to the track.
All, in all, should have stayed in bed.
pete wood ·
That WRX ran an 8.86 last wednesday night at WSID, astounding! Should have seen him fighting the torque steer for the first half of the track.
Sorry you had such a bad day. Looking forward to some success. I'm sure it will work out. :thumb
Sorry you had such a bad day. Looking forward to some success. I'm sure it will work out. :thumb
dangerous ·
Nick ran 128mph!?
Boostn ·
Hi Dave,
I pulled James's oil pump out and it seems it pinched the gasket at a stud. All fixed.
A shame because the engine makes the heavy fastack feel light, only on 15 psi for now.
It feels much brighter than mine.
It was the first time out for my pro street bug. Just went out to do some mixture tunes and check out the rear end. On 19 psi and 6000 rpm shifts ....2.5 60ft
Off to the dyno again because the boost is coming up again for some real power.
Sorry for the hi-jack James.
I pulled James's oil pump out and it seems it pinched the gasket at a stud. All fixed.
A shame because the engine makes the heavy fastack feel light, only on 15 psi for now.
It feels much brighter than mine.
It was the first time out for my pro street bug. Just went out to do some mixture tunes and check out the rear end. On 19 psi and 6000 rpm shifts ....2.5 60ft
Off to the dyno again because the boost is coming up again for some real power.
Sorry for the hi-jack James.
vwfastback ·
Ok,
It was a umpteen cent gasket that caused the leak.
After playing with engines and cars for the last decade, I am glad it was something to small.
Car is ready to go again. The weather is going to be between 13 and 28 predicted at the moment. there is a possibility of rain, but my fingers are crossed.
Time to go and get on the track this time.
This time, I will drive the car up to the road first.
Will report back on Monday positively. I hope.
James C.
It was a umpteen cent gasket that caused the leak.
After playing with engines and cars for the last decade, I am glad it was something to small.
Car is ready to go again. The weather is going to be between 13 and 28 predicted at the moment. there is a possibility of rain, but my fingers are crossed.
Time to go and get on the track this time.
This time, I will drive the car up to the road first.
Will report back on Monday positively. I hope.
James C.
Craig Torrens ·
How did you go?
vwfastback ·
This time things went well.
Got to the track with no hassles, even through scruitinering without a problem.
Did a slow warm up pass to see how the car felt.
3.8 60 foot. and crossed the line in 17.3. At 98mph.
7mph faster than N/A and 2.4 sec slower.
This time off the line the car bogged down. 3.6 sec 60 foot but I kept the foot in to it. crossed in 15.8 this time, at 108 mph.
The car was bogging down off the line, so I thought I would keep the revs up a bit more.
Next time was better.
2.1 60 foot. I was shifting at a relatively low 6800rpm.
Crossed the line at 13.07 at 111.77mph. Again, the car bogged down at the start nearly to stalling, however she got up and ran.
Last run had the potential to be the a real quick one.
I kept the revs high at the line and it didn't stall at all. 1.9 60 foot.
The car lifted up and was still up when I changed to second.
However, it died off at that stage. Car lost the push, and backfired twice. Still ran a 13.4 but at only 98mph this time.
I haven't checked it yet, but I suspect that the plug finally fouled. They are the origional plugs from testing and I was warned that they would.
The day was a good day. I have to learn how to drive the car properly and have found it very, very different to n/a. The car ran dead straight and was very, very responsive. The car was running full weight and with the full exhaust.
The car is fun. It feels very light, and when it moves on power it digs in and goes straight.
Time to change the plugs, and go again. Once I learn how to drive it correctly, It will be time to turn up the boost, tune it on a dyno and then really give that strip a blast.
It was great fun.
Got to the track with no hassles, even through scruitinering without a problem.
Did a slow warm up pass to see how the car felt.
3.8 60 foot. and crossed the line in 17.3. At 98mph.
7mph faster than N/A and 2.4 sec slower.
This time off the line the car bogged down. 3.6 sec 60 foot but I kept the foot in to it. crossed in 15.8 this time, at 108 mph.
The car was bogging down off the line, so I thought I would keep the revs up a bit more.
Next time was better.
2.1 60 foot. I was shifting at a relatively low 6800rpm.
Crossed the line at 13.07 at 111.77mph. Again, the car bogged down at the start nearly to stalling, however she got up and ran.
Last run had the potential to be the a real quick one.
I kept the revs high at the line and it didn't stall at all. 1.9 60 foot.
The car lifted up and was still up when I changed to second.
However, it died off at that stage. Car lost the push, and backfired twice. Still ran a 13.4 but at only 98mph this time.
I haven't checked it yet, but I suspect that the plug finally fouled. They are the origional plugs from testing and I was warned that they would.
The day was a good day. I have to learn how to drive the car properly and have found it very, very different to n/a. The car ran dead straight and was very, very responsive. The car was running full weight and with the full exhaust.
The car is fun. It feels very light, and when it moves on power it digs in and goes straight.
Time to change the plugs, and go again. Once I learn how to drive it correctly, It will be time to turn up the boost, tune it on a dyno and then really give that strip a blast.
It was great fun.
hellbugged ·
great news!
glad it all went well this time.
do you feel the sub 12.5 is possible?
glad it all went well this time.
do you feel the sub 12.5 is possible?
vwfastback ·
Thanks,
With a fresh set of plugs, I think it will do it on it's current tune easily.
With a bit more boost, more agressive driving and a bit of luck, it will drop in to the 11's.
With a fresh set of plugs, I think it will do it on it's current tune easily.
With a bit more boost, more agressive driving and a bit of luck, it will drop in to the 11's.
pete wood ·
Good stuff. 👍
[ Edited on 6-2-2006 by pete wood ]
[ Edited on 6-2-2006 by pete wood ]
vwfastback ·
It has been a while since an update.
Found out what caused the backfires. The valve on number three was not opening properly on the intake. The reason was that a valve lash cap smashed in the first few seconds of the last run. This caused pushrods to seperate away from the rocker and then for the rocker to jam on the valve. The backfire then caused the gaskets to blow out on 1+2 and 3+4.
I have new lash caps now and will put back together soon.
What does all this mean?
It means that with no boost and on three cylinders the car can run 13.4 @ 98mph. That is not a bad thing.
I have replaced the gaskets, and will replace the lash caps this weekend.
It will be nice to see what 20psi and 4 cylinders can achieve.....
Cheers,
James C.
Found out what caused the backfires. The valve on number three was not opening properly on the intake. The reason was that a valve lash cap smashed in the first few seconds of the last run. This caused pushrods to seperate away from the rocker and then for the rocker to jam on the valve. The backfire then caused the gaskets to blow out on 1+2 and 3+4.
I have new lash caps now and will put back together soon.
What does all this mean?
It means that with no boost and on three cylinders the car can run 13.4 @ 98mph. That is not a bad thing.
I have replaced the gaskets, and will replace the lash caps this weekend.
It will be nice to see what 20psi and 4 cylinders can achieve.....
Cheers,
James C.
humpty ·
This is rapidly becoming a serious street car..... Im totally loving this thing..... Its so old school in a tech kinda way and very elegant too..... A brilliant car!..... I cant wait to see what it can really do.... Be interesting to see what its making too.... All round great stuff... Keep it coming James.
gull ·
yes but mine will wast it
humpty ·
gull wrote:yes but mine will wast it
yeah.... maybe.... but...... whats with all that water floating around in your engine? :repuke
pete wood ·
THat's a big call on Gull's part. I'll start listening when I see his car and some timesheets. 🙄
humpty ·
The thing is Pete.... Gull builds very cool machines or which I have seen a few..... I dunno if he has ever done a drag car before and I know he's never done a VW berfore, but hell... the thing he's building now is gonna scoot.... But the challenge will be getting it to stick and not break!.... we shall see.....
seagull ·
well yes it has water , but the motor only cost $66.66 cents
I can say I done my machining time on some fast cars , but untill now I have not built my own .
with out taking over this thread
I can say I done my machining time on some fast cars , but untill now I have not built my own .
with out taking over this thread
Boostn ·
Hey gull,gull wrote:yes but mine will wast it
start your own thread with some details of you neck snaping hot rod wich sounds "very interesting".
[ Edited on 8/5/2006 by Boostn ]
vwfastback ·
Sounds like a challenge Gull.
I don't accept though. I am in this for fun and seeing fast VW's. I have allways loved the disbelief in others when a VW beats a high powered V8.
Is is a type 3 you have? I am hoping to see more of those on the strip. In fact any VW out there is great.
I had a search, but could not find any reference to you car. Which model were you planning to waste me with?
Being on this forum, I assume it is VW based and/or powered. That is what we are all here for afterall.
I don't accept though. I am in this for fun and seeing fast VW's. I have allways loved the disbelief in others when a VW beats a high powered V8.
Is is a type 3 you have? I am hoping to see more of those on the strip. In fact any VW out there is great.
I had a search, but could not find any reference to you car. Which model were you planning to waste me with?
Being on this forum, I assume it is VW based and/or powered. That is what we are all here for afterall.
Jeza ·
Wow! I've just read this start to finish, what a wicked car, that is awesome.
Is it still streetable?
Can't wait to hear how you get on with more tuning!
Cheers
Jeremy
Is it still streetable?
Can't wait to hear how you get on with more tuning!
Cheers
Jeremy
Craig Paton ·
A Turboed AIR-COOLED engine in a heavy Fastie, chasing some good numbers really Rocks! :thumb
Doug Sweetman ·
I love that all that engine still fits under the hood..... cant imagine the look on peoples faces when you open the bootlid and WHAM they are hit in the face with such a confronting engine 🙂 love it love it love it.
Boostn ·
The alt was found to be faulty draining the battery causing the mallory unit to not work properly, and it still went 114mph on 15 psi with a 2.00 60 ft.
The turbo kit has been removed and is getting HPC coated.
The turbo kit has been removed and is getting HPC coated.
humpty ·
I used to ran a 69 Fasty back in the late 80's, early 90's that ran high 14's with a NA 1641... That was fun until a little old lady decided she like the look of the frontend a little too much!!..... My brother has been running his WRX powered Notch on the street and strip for the past 10 years with great success (high 12's all day) and I will soon have my EJ25 powered Notch out there also..... As for dub power.... I have my 2276 turbo intercooled EFI ragtop in the works..... but thats another story.... Keep it coming..... Im diggin your machine in big way.... Id love to see it in action.... Maybe a moofie?vwfastback wrote:Is is a type 3 you have? I am hoping to see more of those on the strip. In fact any VW out there is great.
Doug Sweetman ·
Any idea what the et was when it ran 114mph ?
bus914 ·
vwfastback, your ride rocks. any new pix?
[ Edited on 23-8-2006 by bus914 ]
tell us more about this one.:thumbhumpty wrote:I used to ran a 69 Fasty back in the late 80's, early 90's that ran high 14's with a NA 1641...
[ Edited on 23-8-2006 by bus914 ]
vwfastback ·
Doug,
Last time I took the car to heathcote, I had a fun but shocking time.
I got in three runs. Each run had me stumbling off the line, nearly stalling the car. However, once the car had momentum, wow. It just squated and leaped. Each gear change could feel the front of the car lift. The car felt really, really light.
The times were:
60ft 330ft 66ft 1000ft
3.84 7.97 11.01@ 85.31 13.61 15.7 @110mph
2.90 7.20 10.3 @81.79 12.87 14.9 @110.84mph
3.04 7.3 10.45 @ 83.35 12.99 15.05 @114.18mph
After three runs, there was not enough juice in the battery to start the car. (I also realised on the last run that I was hitting the rev limiter on 2 and 3rd with out realising it. It gets to 7500 so quickly)
After this I bit the bullet and stripped down the turbo kit to get to the alternator. The alternator is currently being rebuilt at a porsche specialist. There were 2 diodes missing, and the rectifer was cactus.
While the turbo kit is apart, I am getting it HPC protected. This will assist with the longevity of all that plumbing, and add some bling bling to it. Not that is has a hard time getting attention when I open the boot at the drags.
The car has more in it. At 114mph, and at 2500lb, it should be able to get under 12.5 easily. Improving the launch should assist the car in a few more mph. ( Dangerous - you are good at the maths here on what this should achieve)
Getting good spark will help. Feeding the Mallory some real juice rather than draining the battery will be beneficial. Learning how to launch this combo will assist too. On the previous N/A engine, a 1.7-1.8 was achievable. That was before the good tyres.
Then once it is consistant, time to turn up the boost.
Last time I took the car to heathcote, I had a fun but shocking time.
I got in three runs. Each run had me stumbling off the line, nearly stalling the car. However, once the car had momentum, wow. It just squated and leaped. Each gear change could feel the front of the car lift. The car felt really, really light.
The times were:
60ft 330ft 66ft 1000ft
3.84 7.97 11.01@ 85.31 13.61 15.7 @110mph
2.90 7.20 10.3 @81.79 12.87 14.9 @110.84mph
3.04 7.3 10.45 @ 83.35 12.99 15.05 @114.18mph
After three runs, there was not enough juice in the battery to start the car. (I also realised on the last run that I was hitting the rev limiter on 2 and 3rd with out realising it. It gets to 7500 so quickly)
After this I bit the bullet and stripped down the turbo kit to get to the alternator. The alternator is currently being rebuilt at a porsche specialist. There were 2 diodes missing, and the rectifer was cactus.
While the turbo kit is apart, I am getting it HPC protected. This will assist with the longevity of all that plumbing, and add some bling bling to it. Not that is has a hard time getting attention when I open the boot at the drags.
The car has more in it. At 114mph, and at 2500lb, it should be able to get under 12.5 easily. Improving the launch should assist the car in a few more mph. ( Dangerous - you are good at the maths here on what this should achieve)
Getting good spark will help. Feeding the Mallory some real juice rather than draining the battery will be beneficial. Learning how to launch this combo will assist too. On the previous N/A engine, a 1.7-1.8 was achievable. That was before the good tyres.
Then once it is consistant, time to turn up the boost.
BRUTUS ·
Anyone go to street drags at Calder still. I think they are still on but not sure if every week or ev 2nd week on Fridays... Closer than Heathcote. Would like to go if/when there are any VW peolple around!
Doug Sweetman ·
The more I see, the more I wish I had $10 or $15k to get Volkommen to build me a motor..... this is just Kool.....
humpty ·
Come on Dougie... Get out there and do it yourself.... Im sure ppl like Nick, Hermann and Dave and even some of the old sckool guys will be there to help you get it happening.... And you don't need to spend HUGE bux..... I'll have around 5.5k in my 2276 once its on the road.... Sure its not as cheap as the Subi conversions we have done, but it is loads of fun and Im sure like James, its something I have wanted to do for years....Doug Sweetman wrote:The more I see, the more I wish I had $10 or $15k to get Volkommen to build me a motor..... this is just Kool.....
vwfastback ·
Brutus,
Tend to avoid Calder unless the VW Club of Vic organise a meet.
I like to be able to inspect the car, the engine bay, under the car, etc when racing. As Calder is 90% in the dark, this makes it very difficult.
Heathcote is quieter, the atmosphere is friendlier and you can see what you are doing. It is further, but from a racer's perspective, it is a better environment.
Regards,
James C.
Tend to avoid Calder unless the VW Club of Vic organise a meet.
I like to be able to inspect the car, the engine bay, under the car, etc when racing. As Calder is 90% in the dark, this makes it very difficult.
Heathcote is quieter, the atmosphere is friendlier and you can see what you are doing. It is further, but from a racer's perspective, it is a better environment.
Regards,
James C.
vwfastback ·
Found an interesting website to plug in the MPH and the weight of the car in to.
Using the calculator at http://www.speedworldmotorplex.com/calc.htm
It tells me that with a 220lb car going through the traps at 84mph that
I was making : 104 HP at the rear wheels and 123 HP at the flywheel*.
A little less than I had thought, but I will live with that.
It tells me currently with the same weight car going through the traps at 114.18mph
That I am making 261 HP at the rear wheels and 308 HP at the flywheel*.
I am not sure if that maths is right, but it does explain while I smile so much when driving the car. Same size engine but over twice the power.
It sure is going to get interesting over 20lb boost.....
*Note: Assuming a 18% drive train loss.
[ Edited on 24-8-2006 by vwfastback ]
Using the calculator at http://www.speedworldmotorplex.com/calc.htm
It tells me that with a 220lb car going through the traps at 84mph that
I was making : 104 HP at the rear wheels and 123 HP at the flywheel*.
A little less than I had thought, but I will live with that.
It tells me currently with the same weight car going through the traps at 114.18mph
That I am making 261 HP at the rear wheels and 308 HP at the flywheel*.
I am not sure if that maths is right, but it does explain while I smile so much when driving the car. Same size engine but over twice the power.
It sure is going to get interesting over 20lb boost.....
*Note: Assuming a 18% drive train loss.
[ Edited on 24-8-2006 by vwfastback ]
BRUTUS ·
Thanks for advice James. VW Club used to go a couple of times a couple of years ago - maybe they'll go again.
Let us know please when you go to Heathcote next. Where can you gert details on Heathcote drags? Was thinking of Calder due to closer distance if need to have car towed back (it is street driven to events). I suppose heathcote isn't ALL that much further. How much is it to run? can you just arrive & run as you used to at Calder street drags?
Brutus I (my stock-looking type 3) got about 17.3s at 79mph (from memory) in in the early-mid 1980's with a 88mm bore x 78mm motor. Have still got the little ticket somewhere.
The weights you keep quoting about 1010kg/2230lbs sounds 'stock' for a fastback. Can't it be lightened a bit?
Best Luck - John
Let us know please when you go to Heathcote next. Where can you gert details on Heathcote drags? Was thinking of Calder due to closer distance if need to have car towed back (it is street driven to events). I suppose heathcote isn't ALL that much further. How much is it to run? can you just arrive & run as you used to at Calder street drags?
Brutus I (my stock-looking type 3) got about 17.3s at 79mph (from memory) in in the early-mid 1980's with a 88mm bore x 78mm motor. Have still got the little ticket somewhere.
The weights you keep quoting about 1010kg/2230lbs sounds 'stock' for a fastback. Can't it be lightened a bit?
Best Luck - John
dangerous ·
vwfastback wrote:( Dangerous - you are good at the maths here on what this should achieve)
Just broke out my slide rule and 11.5's are acheiveable with that speed, but 60 foot times in the mid 150s are needed.
I hate to spoil your guestimates, but at 114mph it has 285hp at the flywheel,
and that will equate to about 250 to 260 at the wheels on a modern chassis dyno.
BUT!!! you most likely have more power than this,
but will see much higher speeds with a cleaner take off.
Most turbo cars don't acheive their preset boost level in the lower gears
unless full throttle and/or 2-step are used for the launch.
Based on the spec and boost level or your engine,
I would guesstimate(that word again!) around 320 flywheel and low elevens @120 with correct tune for your current boost level.
Of course this assumes an efficient launch procedure and good tyres.
dangerous ·
The other thing that will help with your launches is a taller first gear.
If it were mine( and it is not!) I would change to a 3.00 or taller first gear.
If it were mine( and it is not!) I would change to a 3.00 or taller first gear.
humpty ·
Envy.... Thats what I have for you James..... Pure unadulterated ENVY!......
Boostn ·
Pitty it won't look so nice after a race meet.
But at least it won't go rusty!
But at least it won't go rusty!
Boostn ·
The intake side
Doug Sweetman ·
engine porn..... lovely.... very nice indeed 🙂
humpty ·
Now thats sexy stuff......
malcolm ·
what thickness is the pipe wall and have you looking at the black high temp coating on the exhaust housing to keep up gas velocity.
58bbugger ·
I don't think that you should use the turbo kit so you don't wreck the look of it.
Nar just race it!
Nar just race it!
LOWBUG ·
NICE, MONEY WELL SPENT, THATS ALOT OF EFFORT TO GO TO. I HOPE IT DOSN'T LEAK.
LOWBUG ·
Whats happened to this project?
Boostn ·
It was my fault the car didn't make it on the day. Sorry again James!LOWBUG wrote:Whats happened to this project?
We are doing a better set of heads for it and have been messed around getting valves but I also have had too much work on to get it finished in time for the drag day.
James has been busy re-wiring the car and has also rebuilt the porsche alternator. It will not be long now but James is also VERY busy with his own work.
fullnoise ·
I just came across this post. What great reading!
Thanks for sharing the development and the trials and tribulations.
I bet it won't be long before you get your 12.5 second time slip. Nice looking fasty too.
Thanks for sharing the development and the trials and tribulations.
I bet it won't be long before you get your 12.5 second time slip. Nice looking fasty too.
humpty ·
I've missed this thread.... Nice to see it has not been lost.....
LOWBUG ·
What was the logger worth to buy and what did it come with?
Stanley ·
It'll be great to see a fast type 3...great read....😵
westi ·
great story ,some more pic's would be nice
,what cfm carby are you running.
,what cfm carby are you running.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Well your not the only one building a quick Type 3 Fasback.Good to see!! My brother and I are attempting(along with help and info from Dangerous,Pete Page and co) to do a similiar thing but we are going EFI(Autronic) with garrett T3/4 hi flow on 2330cc. We are also looking to run into the low 12's and possibly high 11's once everything is sorted and driver gets his head around the way the car responds and the amount of power.
In aspirated form it ran mid 14's with a loose manifold and broke a clutch tube!! So me thinks it'll be a lil bit quicker than that now...
In aspirated form it ran mid 14's with a loose manifold and broke a clutch tube!! So me thinks it'll be a lil bit quicker than that now...
Boostn ·
750 vacwesti wrote:great story ,some more pic's would be nice
,what cfm carby are you running.
westi ·
cheer's.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
This is a pic of how Troy has run his fuel system. He is running EFI hence the Bosch motorsport pump as the main pump and a carter keeps the swirl pot full.
Car has so far made 250 odd HP atw on 15psi and is going back for another 5 psi and to finish off the tune. Aiming for 300 atw when completed.
vwfastback ·
The spare wheel well is allways the first thing to be sacrificed in a type 3.
No one carries a spare there anymore.
No one carries a spare there anymore.
oldskl60 ·
Great to see James!! And after Portland.... Warwick!!??
Keep us posted with the progress.
Keep us posted with the progress.
GTMac ·
James, low 12's will be a sinch for you. Im currently running 240-250hp atw and can manage a 12.7 with only a 2.6 60'.........................so wait for the big grin on your face after you receive the time slip.Car has so far made 250 odd HP atw on 15psi and is going back for another 5 psi and to finish off the tune. Aiming for 300 atw when completed.
Had to look twice at your wheel well, wondering where the radiator was as Im so used to seeing it now. Im aiming for about the same HP after head work and change of cams but hoping can keep the boost at 15psi.
Looking forward to seeing the end results and yes doesnt it take time for these things to come together. 🤪
HGFS ·
So what are you running for a gearbox? I'm thinking odds are if it survives OK in a fastback should be fine in my case being in a lighter beetle.
I'm in the middle of weighing up options at the moment.
Your fuel system looks the goods by the way, sounds complex but that's what you need to get the job done.
Cheers,
Greg
I'm in the middle of weighing up options at the moment.
Your fuel system looks the goods by the way, sounds complex but that's what you need to get the job done.
Cheers,
Greg
typethreeking ·
James, i have the 71 turbo type 3, it made 246.4hp at the wheels on bp ultimate. i ran at warwick this year and ran 8.6 @ 83.79mph. My best 60ft was 1.9sec and im running a standard box apart from a super diff and a kombi .82 4th gear. im hoping to make over 300hp at the wheels with 20psi once i get all the other issues i have first. what is your best time so far, i am planning to run at willowbank in december so long as i get the tune right.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I think Troy is waiting to see if a car carrier is still on the cards for the interested parties.
typethreeking ·
yeah im not sure yet whether i can get time off work at the moment, would love to get there if $$$$ permits. i still have a heap of tuning to do on my car, just got the tuning program loaded onto my laptop so i will se if i can make some changes myself to improve the car.
STOCK ·
IF FUNDS ARE LOW YOU KNOW
THERE'S ALLWAYS C*** FOR CAAAAAASH😂
THERE'S ALLWAYS C*** FOR CAAAAAASH😂
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
So how much power is it making?? Have you recorded pre/post tuning to see what the gains are?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Yeah i knew it wasn't a dyno graph but just wondered if may have had it on a dyno previous or have an estimation of how much power you may have or want.
My brother is looking for something close to 300hp.
My brother is looking for something close to 300hp.
LOWBUG ·
Was I seeing correctly with your set up being suck through with a carb? Apart from cost why not injection. The logger would have cost a bit to buy and set up. I Don't seem to have any of the probs you are having when using injection, and tunig on a dyno sorts out all the spikes and stuff your getting without tourching heads or valves.
I'm no expert maybe I just got lucky with a set up that works. I pulled an 8.1 at Warrick loosing traction in third gear, what a blast.
I'm no expert maybe I just got lucky with a set up that works. I pulled an 8.1 at Warrick loosing traction in third gear, what a blast.
Turbo54 ·
Hey James,
A friend has a boosted pinto motor running blow through carby setup make loads of power up hi as the engine was built to rev to 9K and boost comes on at around 4500. This car has its neck ringed everytime it goes out and was built for street and track use. His was also leaning out at high revs and he got around that but using a single injector that comes on with a hobb switch at high revs.
Maybe have a look, just and idea.
T54
A friend has a boosted pinto motor running blow through carby setup make loads of power up hi as the engine was built to rev to 9K and boost comes on at around 4500. This car has its neck ringed everytime it goes out and was built for street and track use. His was also leaning out at high revs and he got around that but using a single injector that comes on with a hobb switch at high revs.
Maybe have a look, just and idea.
T54
Boostn ·
Hey Guys,
don't worry about the power potential of this set up.
James is trying to do as much of this as he can. He is learning heaps along the way.
One of the main reasons why he went old skool is because he can take care of things on his own, unlike efi where he hands it over to me and the dyno.
This way James takes care of the hole package easily.
The reason why it torched heads is because his alternator was not charging properly, running the fuel pump slower, so not providing enough fuel to the engine.
This is the same alternator that James had used for many years so who was to know.
Currently the primary side is lean [drivability] because James needs to get the power valve/jets right, not a big one but again James is learning all the time.
don't worry about the power potential of this set up.
James is trying to do as much of this as he can. He is learning heaps along the way.
One of the main reasons why he went old skool is because he can take care of things on his own, unlike efi where he hands it over to me and the dyno.
This way James takes care of the hole package easily.
The reason why it torched heads is because his alternator was not charging properly, running the fuel pump slower, so not providing enough fuel to the engine.
This is the same alternator that James had used for many years so who was to know.
Currently the primary side is lean [drivability] because James needs to get the power valve/jets right, not a big one but again James is learning all the time.
LOWBUG ·
Maybe I should have mentioned that my luck has only come with my second attempt, my first turbo engine had its fair share of problems. I too understand that with air cooled engines your starting well behind the eight ball. I already had the EFI set up before the turbo was added and getting intercoolers to work properly was a challenge. The EFI made tuning and drivability much easier as well as other small areas of concern. I have also done alot of the set up and fabrication work myself and have had good guidence from those with experiance. My has engine still has a little more potential in it with fine tuning and small set up changes it should give me a little more but not to much.
As far as traction loss goes, you are spot on and addressing this is on the agender. After warrick I ran it WSID and got the back end all out of shape leading to the conclusion you pointed out. Unfortunatly time and other priorities hold me from getting to portland, hope to get to warrick and crack 7's.
I've been watching your progress for some time and been eager to see how youv'e gone since there was an absence for a while, but totaly understand as I was out of action for a while myself whilst rebuilding and getting a tuff gearbox together.
Good luck and hope to see you on the track with it sorted and ripping up the V8 boy's, man they get the shits.
As far as traction loss goes, you are spot on and addressing this is on the agender. After warrick I ran it WSID and got the back end all out of shape leading to the conclusion you pointed out. Unfortunatly time and other priorities hold me from getting to portland, hope to get to warrick and crack 7's.
I've been watching your progress for some time and been eager to see how youv'e gone since there was an absence for a while, but totaly understand as I was out of action for a while myself whilst rebuilding and getting a tuff gearbox together.
Good luck and hope to see you on the track with it sorted and ripping up the V8 boy's, man they get the shits.
LOWBUG ·
I love it when they come up to you and say "man whats in that" and you turn and say "a vw engine". One night had a mate up it the stands bagging the shit out of the fact that there was a vw lined up for a run only to see their jaws drop when I took off and pulled a 13.6 at a 100 mph. Now thats gold. Sounds like we got some bench racing to do James.
Cheers
Cheers
vwfastback ·
Prep for Portland is nearly ready.
I was going to get the engine and car set up for a race tune and purchased good fuel in preparation.
Took the car to the dyno yesterday, and have decided that at this meet to stay in street trim. Cleaned up the lean spot on ramp up, have a nice power curve.
There is a heap more power in the engine. It wants more boost at high revs and on power. AFR when the secondaries open through to full power is 10.6.
On the dyno with 98 Octane BP Ultimate, boost @ 17, muffler and air filters on it's making a nice consistent 264hp when warm. It peaks at 275hp if the block is cool.
Thats at 8500rpm, when the rev limiter cuts in. Engine wants to pull beyond that.
That will do me for Portland.
I was going to get the engine and car set up for a race tune and purchased good fuel in preparation.
Took the car to the dyno yesterday, and have decided that at this meet to stay in street trim. Cleaned up the lean spot on ramp up, have a nice power curve.
There is a heap more power in the engine. It wants more boost at high revs and on power. AFR when the secondaries open through to full power is 10.6.
On the dyno with 98 Octane BP Ultimate, boost @ 17, muffler and air filters on it's making a nice consistent 264hp when warm. It peaks at 275hp if the block is cool.
Thats at 8500rpm, when the rev limiter cuts in. Engine wants to pull beyond that.
That will do me for Portland.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Good numbers mate. Should be nice to drive. Look forward to hearing results from Portland.
debiasi4 ·
great to see it going james - thats some big revs looking forward to catching up
adam
adam
vwfastback ·
Thanks Adam,
It's been too long since the car was at the track. I am looking forward to it.
The noise at full revs is amazing. There were guys watching the car 20 meters in front of it, not facing the engine, with the fingers in their ears. At 8k it sounds like a jet engine.
That was with the muffler on the car, yet at 3-4k RPM, its sounds like a VW.
Looking forward to seeing your car in action again as well. It went hard last year, and I am sure you have modified it to go harder this year.
James C.
It's been too long since the car was at the track. I am looking forward to it.
The noise at full revs is amazing. There were guys watching the car 20 meters in front of it, not facing the engine, with the fingers in their ears. At 8k it sounds like a jet engine.
That was with the muffler on the car, yet at 3-4k RPM, its sounds like a VW.
Looking forward to seeing your car in action again as well. It went hard last year, and I am sure you have modified it to go harder this year.
James C.
typethreeking ·
not bad numbers on the dyno, thats some serious rpm your pulling there. i set my car up to make its power without revving it to hard, i just want it to last as long as possible. mine made 246.4hp before the clutch was fried and that was at 5700rpm. its going back to the dyno towards the end of next month to fine tune it and increase the boost to around 20psi, hoping to get around 300hp then...Troy
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Have you beefed up the engine mounts and box mounts at all?? Type 3 engine mounts are weak as and break even on stocko 1600's. They pull through the floor and if you have no intermediate mount the engine will almost fall to the ground.
Troy has beefed up the floor with 6mm plate and replaced the threaded part of the mount with 12 mm booker rod. Rear engine bar is basically now only an auxillary mount for things like turbo etc to hang off but still helps in holding engine still. Beefy front box mount and ladder type bars from top shock mounts to 4 bell housing to engine bolts stop box and engine from moving at all.
Another thing to do is replace all the torsion bar housing bushes where it bolts to the pan. Too much movement generated through these cause the rear end to walk around under power. Troy spun up some billet alloy ones and solid mounted all of them. No movement whatsoever.
Good luck with the box. Hopefully only crown wheel and spider gears are damaged.
Troy has beefed up the floor with 6mm plate and replaced the threaded part of the mount with 12 mm booker rod. Rear engine bar is basically now only an auxillary mount for things like turbo etc to hang off but still helps in holding engine still. Beefy front box mount and ladder type bars from top shock mounts to 4 bell housing to engine bolts stop box and engine from moving at all.
Another thing to do is replace all the torsion bar housing bushes where it bolts to the pan. Too much movement generated through these cause the rear end to walk around under power. Troy spun up some billet alloy ones and solid mounted all of them. No movement whatsoever.
Good luck with the box. Hopefully only crown wheel and spider gears are damaged.
custom fastty ·
hi im from the uk and have a turbo set up like yours in my fastty.got a problem wonder if you can help.engine turns over but wont fire,the fuel does not seem to be reaching the plugs(it seems to pool in the intack manifold before the turbo)its only a 1641cc with a t2.5 turbo and a twin choke weber carb,it doesent seem to draw enough air to pull the fuel to the plugs.any help would be much appreciated cheers fastty ps will post some pics tonight on forum
Boostn ·
Hey Dude,custom fastty wrote:hi im from the uk and have a turbo set up like yours in my fastty.got a problem wonder if you can help.engine turns over but wont fire,the fuel does not seem to be reaching the plugs(it seems to pool in the intack manifold before the turbo)its only a 1641cc with a t2.5 turbo and a twin choke weber carb,it doesent seem to draw enough air to pull the fuel to the plugs.any help would be much appreciated cheers fastty ps will post some pics tonight on forum
sounds like your intake valves are not sealing. Do a quick comp test. You probably need a valve grind on all valves. try checking valve lash just in case.
custom fastty ·
finnaly got it running,turned out to be dodgy rear seal on back exhurst hence no pressure to spin turbo blades.seams to run ok but will need a bigger carb or rejetting.i know engine is ok as its only just been reconditioned.thanks for replying your fastty looks awsome.will post video of mine running on you tube this weekend under turbo type3.cheers tony
vwfastback ·
And that is just the external damage. Oh, and I haven't a photo but of course the front mount is shattered on the gearbox. It also leaks like a sieve, so it will be bdly cracked in the case.
Boostn ·
Not bad James good work.
2 out of 4, we did well.
Mark is getting a new set of axles for half price, how about you?
2 out of 4, we did well.
Mark is getting a new set of axles for half price, how about you?
matberry ·
mmm.......snap like a carrot
dangerous ·
I see those are the small type one spline James.
You can order a Quaife with 002 splines or a spool with 091 size.
Hope the rest is OK inside.
Gotta stop the hop.
You can order a Quaife with 002 splines or a spool with 091 size.
Hope the rest is OK inside.
Gotta stop the hop.
A 1200 is slow ·
That's a bummer James....Don't let it get you down, just replace all the broken bits with stronger ones, and lets go racing!!
T25Turbo ·
Great inspiration James, keep up the top work.
"Never give up" is a phrase that springs to mind whilst viewing your thread.
"Never give up" is a phrase that springs to mind whilst viewing your thread.
humpty ·
Oh I have so much to look forward to!
Inspirational stuff James... You are a very determined Dubber....
Inspirational stuff James... You are a very determined Dubber....
Camo ·
I'm no expert, but that doesn't look like a typical fracture from the axle twisting. The broken surface area is to smooth, looks more like a production failure.
Kev
Kev
Turbo54 ·
Hey James, I have been talking about this to David Glyus. Very weird on how that broke. Hope my Quaife doesn't do the same. Anyhow I have a mate who is a retired metallurgist and engineer that could have a look at this. He is not mega bucks and not cheap but does an exceptional job. He is completely anal about anything metal and balancing things. He wrote a letter to GT bicycles in USA about building there cranks the wrong way after I broke a set of unbreakable cranks. He went on to tell them how they should be making them.
Let me know,
Heath T54
Let me know,
Heath T54
typethreeking ·
hey james, it is worth taking the whole rear torsion housing out of the car and replacing the rubbers with aluminum bushes as i have done, also a very strong front mount on the box and i also made mounts that bolt onto the top shock mounts and bolt onto the bell housing top and bottom. replace the original spring plate retainers bushes with jcl solid ones. after doing all these to my car it has made it so solid nothing moves and its actually not that much engine or gearbox noise. if youve got any questions let me know...troy
dangerous ·
Spiffy parts James,
What have you decided to do wth the diff.?
What have you decided to do wth the diff.?
dangerous ·
Going back to swingaxle?
vassy66T1 ·
Bit of gear there Troy 😵💫
What is the plan??
What is the plan??
dangerous ·
It never stops...never.
SuperOwen ·
Just curious why you chose swingaxle instead of a beefy IRS setup?
pete wood ·
um, what's that bracket do?
GTMac ·
James, busy busy busy as all your pics show! A little bit back into the post you mention the desire to make a removeable rear apron basically because of pain/time when having to remove stuff. I am very much toying with the idea as well as its damn hard work taking the Suby engine in and out. Have you progressed with this at all ? I am doing a big engine rebuild next couple of months including 915 box and just thought at same time it would be great thing to do, of course if I did (Murphys Law) I wont need to remove the engine again. Could be a good omen for you 😎
Anyway, its all looking good. I like your comment about street/strip to strip/street, Im adding air/con at same time of engine rebuild, whats that say about my intended usage? 😊
Cheers, Andrew
Anyway, its all looking good. I like your comment about street/strip to strip/street, Im adding air/con at same time of engine rebuild, whats that say about my intended usage? 😊
Cheers, Andrew
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I thought suby's lasted forever or waaay longer than an air cooled volksy 😂😂GTMac wrote:James, busy busy busy as all your pics show! A little bit back into the post you mention the desire to make a removeable rear apron basically because of pain/time when having to remove stuff. I am very much toying with the idea as well as its damn hard work taking the Suby engine in and out. Have you progressed with this at all ? I am doing a big engine rebuild next couple of months including 915 box and just thought at same time it would be great thing to do, of course if I did (Murphys Law) I wont need to remove the engine again. Could be a good omen for you 😎
Anyway, its all looking good. I like your comment about street/strip to strip/street, Im adding air/con at same time of engine rebuild, whats that say about my intended usage? 😊
Cheers, Andrew
Looks like a big shopping spree James!! Hopefully one day we'll get a chance to gut troy's car and get to the 1/4 mile for a run to see what she can really do. would be real nice to get it down to your car's weight but we'll have to see how much stuff we remove to achieve that first.....
GTMac ·
Funny one Brennden 😂
Yeah nothing wrong with the current Suby motor at all, going very strong indeed, just that silly thing of chasing more HP and thought with the expected power a 915 would do the trick behind it, the 5th gear comes in handy for my freeway cruising as well.
Yeah nothing wrong with the current Suby motor at all, going very strong indeed, just that silly thing of chasing more HP and thought with the expected power a 915 would do the trick behind it, the 5th gear comes in handy for my freeway cruising as well.
GTMac ·
Looking good! Love to see some more pics of all the support stuff your doing to try and combat skip and hop. Dont think any of it could be utilised with my car as the Suby engine and placement of my turbo would get in the way. Portland, sounds like a deadline 😎
humpty ·
I really hope you make Portland James.... My first fast dub was 69 Fasty and it is sorely missed..... Looking forward to seeing this beast in the flesh....
See ya there!
See ya there!
typethreeking ·
hey james, i am coming down to portland with peter page, we will have to catch up and have a look at this fasty of yours and compare stories. As for the weight mentioned early there is a bit of difference in weight from early to late models. My car would have to weight i think around 1200kg as it sits now with the full custom interior, big stereo and all the other bits added to it but will be interesting to see it on the scales, will talk next week at portland..troy
matberry ·
Well done.
Good luck at Portland.
Good luck at Portland.
humpty ·
Hey James.... Spotted you at Portland.... Didn't see you near your car when I was walking around so couldn't introduce myself.... Was an awesome weekend.... Loads of peeps asked where my car was.... Obviously not in Victoria!!!!!..... A long trip from WA, but well worth it..... Maybe bring the POS next year!!!.... Here's hoping!
humpty ·
Awesome to see the Fasty at the track James.... I love my TIII's and Fastbacks in particular, so your efforts give me the fuzzies.... Best of luck at Heathcote..... It's looking good for your target and that's a bloody awesome effort..... Keep it up!!!!!