The last Hellbug

getting ready to assemble my engine, thought some of you would like to follow the process.gonna post some parts pics first and shall be adding text over the coming week .if anyone wants more detailed or comparison pics i'd be happy to do that too.yes i do like berg stuff but i am not an employee of their's,(sponsor maybe), nor am i trying to advertise gene berg,(i highly reccomend their service and products though) it just their products i am using. here goes...




nos as21 (1991) bored for 90.5 by bergs (smoothest finish i've seen) will be tapping for full flow oil, welding extended oil pick up, spot facing for 15mm wrench size head stud nuts and washers. will post pics of these processes soon

pictured is head stud kit ----- fuel pump block off------t3 block off, to be tapped for temp sender------
case assembly/conversion kit-----c.b cool tin-----dip stick temp sender-----pressure relief kit---- washingto anti shocker (attaches behind clutch arm to slow closing during drag style starts reducing stress to components its like a small shockie and very adjustable sorry nos no longer available, so ner!--- main bearings-----and adapter for pressure sender & oil light:duh

🥷🥷🥷

heres the 8 dowel 69mm berg crank,visit their web site for the processes that go into producing one of these---- berg selected 90.5 pots (1991 models)balanced & hand honed---total seal second ring set, converted from the original rings that came with the P & B set------ balanced, mag fluxed & shot peened rods & bearing set----wrist pin keepers vs wire clips----nos brass timing gear----new factory dowel pins for bearings (missed previous pic)😀






[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

ahh clutches; green one is 2500 kep -cable breaking , tube bending, leg working muthaf. (used) note bars to aid rigidity---new 1700 pound berg selected match balanced to berg lightened flywheel----old flywheel at back----L to R-- abused dual friction rigid disc by bergs so good had to get another (middle) ordered from bergs this time last week!!!----(right) is standard face springless german made.-----washington anti shocker---- steel gland nut and oversize washer, have cro mol long one to use currently on car tho. some of these spares will be up for sale at projects end.





[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

sometimes you just end up with more than you need (selling spares later)why three cams? turbo grind eagle, berg 300 (no ratio rockers) berg309/ V26engle (for ratio rockers) at this point i should state that most of this stuff was bought as a 1776 kit, a turbo kit was also purchased, had spares from deceased 2180, and also bought some more stuff just because i wanted to do things other than what came with the kit. gears (top to bottom) magnum straight cut alloy on steel (still attached to remainder of 310 cam)--- berg/magnum steel on steel straight cut with bolts and three sets of washers for adjustable timing----berg nos helical gear----eagle adjustable timing helical gear and washers---also pictured timing gear kit (oil slinger,spacer, timing gear,woodruff keys, new dizzy drive shaft, spring and shims, brass dizzy drive) ----spare brass gear and timing washers, so when i sell spares it will be complete cam gear set up---new pressure plate bolts make guest appearence cos they missed flywheel pics, isnt it sad when you loose the plot so bad that you by these justified by telling yourself they will fill a hole in the box your importing.
while i'm on the subject i have obviously been getting a bit from os and found it cheap and easy, last week $130au = $100us didn't cop any import duties either, watch out for freight tho:duh



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

o.k new cro mol pushrods , one end not assembled---used ones---lifters top to bottom, black standards---berg/mahle modified, small cut between oil rings to aid constant pressure and machined under head for case lifter bore clearence---berg selected standard mahle---dual thrust copper faced cam bearings---c.b race pushrod tubes & seals, tappered end for pushrod clearence with ratio rockers😉


[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

heads; berg installed seats 40mm & 37.5, new guides installed, BUT, the ports have not been matched to new seats,guide bosses will need cutting down for inner dual spring, may also semi hemi, intend on posting pics of these tricks later.
pictured L-R----array of cylinder spacers/shims for compresion to be set---nos manley stainless valves---dual springs set--hardened keepers, gapped not to touch--cro mol retainers---1.4 ratio rockers
---lash caps--spring shim kit, that'll be fun!--spare guides---solid rocker shaft kit
--swivel feet adjusters and rocker geometry shim kit---heavy duty rocker studs:kiss



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

oiling;big sump over 6000rpm-- lil one for under 6k---oil thermostats, needed cb one to run braided lines (fittings)--oberg cleanable filter with tattle tale that tells when cleaning is necessary---26mm tapped and plugged pumps one has o'ring at cam end, so its the one for me---pressure relief cover for cold starting---sump pickup tube & magnet---mounting kit---teflon hoses, read recently that gene ran a set of these lines for over 20 years,hence the "lifetime" tag😀



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

6 1/4 pound equilizer pulley, these are machined from steel bar--oil pump seal nuts and copper coated exhaust nut sets missed their fashion shoot--super strength longer pulley bolt with large & small beville washers, tourque to 100 pounds! but check your crank quality first.😉



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

induction; dual 48mm dellortos with berg ball type fuel inlet valves installed (used) these reach full flow with minimum float travel, manifolds will need match porting---holley fuel pump---mallory pressure regulator---spare cages for uni filters---K&N air cleaners, with tops tapped for breather box--that oh so smooth berg linkage cured a miriad of problems when it replaced hex bar on previous motor:thumb



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

forced induction!, so thats why the idiots got three cams.
---IHI RHB5 turbo----intercooler----malpassi boost sensitive pressure reg---modulator rings, like velocity stacks but smaller only 31-36mm, used to change air pressure at top of blo- thru carb under boost, thus float bowl and main gas jets to enrichen mixtures as boost comes on:jesus---rebuild kits,two sets with rubberish gaskets again for life under pressure--just above the dellorto sticker are throttle shaft sealing o'rings to stop fuel/boost escape again---turbo emulsion tubes, again boost, these allow running larger jets by leaning bottom and midrange passages--- 2.9mm ball type needle and seats(berg)---quality gaskets---not going with turbo yet more parts and research needed😠



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

no, no, must resist!


[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

ignition; top--electronic ignition control module--jacobs omni pac computer coil, this thing uses the earthed out coil(at bottom) as a signal and automatically adjust spark accordingly, no i dont get it either but it has provided years off service on a 2180, two 1300s and a 1640 and contiues to blow rotor buttons apart so there is certainly serious sparks happening---fuse box bottom left:kiss



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

1640; showing breater box--electronic 009---berg "acheiver" pulley, yep another spare part--36hp dog house fan shroud--senders set up----another dip stick temp thing that earths out factory oil light when both cold and hot, yep berg--polished alternator:duh



[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

this is where we should end up. hope a few people take an interest in the process and offer advise/ encouragement along the way.will be posting regularly as i get going, hope the administrators don't mind (u2u if so) . not sure who will be doing what at this stage, there is a wealth of talent in this area, from stan the man to retired hellbug proprieters, others too and its always nice to do a bit yourself!
cheers everyone thanx for sharing this with me, i really needed to tell some people who should enjoy

[Edited on 3/5/2005 by dumone]

porn!
Lookin forward to the build up 😎

Looks like enough to build a couple of engines?

the home for the all BERG 1776cc....

super tourer......



race day.......





a slideshow about "bugsmoney"s other mods....

http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/?action=view&current=1166511229.pbw

[ Edited on 19-12-06 by dumone ]

1st dibs on any left-over parts

:P

What are the specs on the turbo cam and how efficient is that turbo, how much boost, when does it come on?
Thanks
T54

Turbo54 wrote:What are the specs on the turbo cam and how efficient is that turbo, how much boost, when does it come on?
Thanks
T54

the thing is tiny, so i believe early boost is a cerainty, i'm not aiming for ultra high boost levels, 15psi is possible. they came off telstars/mazda 626, so it wont be as efficient as whats available now. internal wastegate. pretty sure its the same as what dave becker was running on his oval a few years back and shimo has fiddled with these as well. a mate is turboing a fiat motor at the moment, and a visit to his house made me realize just how tiny my turbo is, i'll get a side by side shot with his, it'll blow you away. hes running a 100mm throttle body on a four cylinder, huge!!!!

[Edited on 5/5/2005 by dumone]

Someone needs to attend Gene Berg Anonymous, That is one serious addiction to berg products. All for good reason too, the quality is unrivaled.
Wayne.

Most of that went over my head. I just finished a top end rebuild, all standard stuff. I look forward to regular updates, and plan to learn as much as possible.
Brett

Are you really using carbs with a turbo? 🙁

Why?

Pete, carbs and turbo-machining the throttle shaft area is the only mod that could send them to the useless pile. the other stuff can be changed back. if life was perfect, injection would be the go. the whole turbo thing is a serious commitment, i know. i'd still go for twin blow thru either way. so hats and exhaust, inlet pipes,etc will be first on the list,whilst i think it over.motor will be run with out turbo initially.
cheers damien

dumone wrote:if life was perfect, injection would be the go.

how do you mean?

you've already got the manifolds, if you sold less than half the stuff you've got you'd have enough for a great computer and a set of throttle bodies. Then all you gotta do is tune it. Just a thought 😉

Pete, $$$ i mean.getting to the end of the budget for now.working on some one who is removing a pair of throttle bodies, another freind has suitable injectors, so it might head off in that direction yet.got an estimate on how much its worth to go to injection? or who to contact?
thanks damien

as I understand it, the expensive bit is actually the dyno time. A good computer is only $1500. CBB now have a dyno, and they've done efi VWs before, so might be worth talking to them. Another one is wayne penrose. His dragcar build up is in the Darg racing section at the mo. He could tell you a few things.

But what it boils down to is this. Carbs are always gonna be limited and less precise than EFI. With carbs you might get 200hp at 6000revs, but not much anywhere else in the reve range. With EFI you'll get as close to perfect tune as pos across the ENTIRE rev range, even with a very lumpy cam. It also helps you tune better to avoid detonation, and that will really save you bucks.

the missus says your a bad influence Pete.$1700us for C.B performance setup, sounds reasonable?
tar damien

[Edited on 7/5/2005 by dumone]

Any more details on the cb kit?

+++Edit+++
sorry found it:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=281

I assume this is what you meant?

Or this?

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=286
I was just being lazy again

[Edited on 8/5/2005 by ruckus]

[Edited on 8/5/2005 by ruckus]

nah, use an Aussie ECU. Better product and user support. Also, keeps aussie bucks in aussies companies.

Hows the progress Damien

progress is happening steve. got the cutters sorted for the guide boss and guide end to be cut down for dual springs, needed to make a plate to hold the heads at the correct angle on the drill press table, so thats been the job for the week. the plate will come in handy when the springs get shimmed later, so its all part if the process. damo:thumb
pic shows where i skimmed to check cutters, guide needs to be shaved for retainer clearence and also to allow cutter to reach down to spring seat when the boss is cut for inner springs



[ Edited on 25-10-05 by dumone ]

Wouldn't run the air filter in the bay where it could suck hot air. Better off doing you own thing. If you need any ideas I will give you an address to go to for all your turbo questions. There's a few know it all's on the site but you get them everywhere...
T54

slow start over the last couple of weeks, managed to get the case machined for the washer and nut conversion. the washer lands have now been spot faced to accept the larger diameter washer and 15mm wrench size nuts. not a hard job, just fiddly, the holes were first drilled to 10mm, then each face machined till the nut was getting a full thread, depths vary, and a couple of spots require the stud to be backed out ever so slightly.case can now be torqued to 30pds, prevents shuffling of case 1/2s and consequently extends the life of it.


[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

well a few weeks of delays have come to an end, and its time to get going!not that i'm complaining 'bout the delays- front and rear whiteline sway bars,new pads on the front with late style spindle nuts,6 point roll cage installed, and good progress on ea rear discs,shift light and the "winter break" just up the road, but the biggy was breaking the spot face tool with only a couple of holes remaining.several drill bits were tried and failed before going to cobolt with success.heres a pic of the tool used for spotfacing.its a head stud with tapered end, cross drilled with a cut down drill bit as the cutter- simple but effective.engineers suppliers couldn't provide a cutter with enough shank length to go past the sump.








[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

So what does the car look like? pics

a lovely day under the sun to practice porting and polishing. had a play on some old heads, as my new ones have had bigger seats installed, but now there is a dirty big step left where the smaller seats were. so with the aid of some tried and true port templates, and shirtloads of reading, looking and talking,they're gonna get ported...
like the foot step for getting up above the bench??








[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

whilst the die grinder was out, cut the flange on the rear of the case to clearence the anti-shocker...


[ Edited on 14-2-06 by dumone ]

I was reading about those anti-shockers today on the Berg site, so that's what they look like. Have you used it yet, or is it a brand newie?

yeah Pete, its a newie.the couple of people i have spoken to that have used them, swear by them.my old 2180 came to an end after a fouled clutch engagement,so when i came accross it sitting in a box, i struck a deal with the owner, paid him, and then let him know they are no longer available.

[ Edited on 14-2-06 by dumone ]

finished off head holder for porting and table for holding heads on drill press table, at correct angle to cut guide bosses. think they're stong enough! then, forced myself to dive into my n.o.s dual port heads.







[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

the templates used during practice were deemed too large for my castings, so a compromise template was knocked up.discovered the hole in the center of the gasket was useful for alignment when flipping the template from one port to the other.now, the theory goes that the template would provide the guidlines for how far to go on that end,........


and the step behind the valve seats would be the starting point for the other. then its a matter of linking the two up.....



... my method to keep the ports as even as possible was to do as much as possible with the reach of a particular cutter- on each port(intake), before switching to the next cutter with a longer reach,cleaning up and removing bumps/ highs as i went.not much material has been taken down in the ports, maybe 1 or 2mm, some reshapping was required in the roof area and and the turn above the guides. guides,casting around guides, and bump from spring seat inside inlet ports, will all not be removed-only streamlined/polished to keep air speed and therfore tourque.....






[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

taking it slowly was the go! 6hours saw four ports done from the manifold side down to the back of the guide (not polished)





and two done from behind the seats down...




[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

found out about this thread in your other post, looks like youve got a killer combo there. good luck!
-Ryan

Great stuff

polished the intake ports, happy with the results, but a lil more refining will be needed.









[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

then it was onto the exhaust ports.how rough is the casting!!!



not for long..






[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

hooray!!!!24 hours labour all ports are ported and polished.these pics didn't come up real well, but the batteries went flat, so i will try to replace these photos with better ones later.

first piccy shows the tools needed, for those who might be interested (i had no idea what they looked like a month or so ago)-assortment of carbide burs-emery rolls and shaft-flapper wheels which are like lil strips of emery cloth-and the way cool kitchen scourer scuffer which did the final pass and produced a mirrorish finish- the bolt and sleeve i made up to protect the valve guides-proven template and water cooled kombi exhaust gasket(sitting atop standard beetle) was used for the exhaust size.



few more shots of the places of interest.





[ Edited on 23-6-07 by dumone ]

the steps left under the new larger seats are now long gone!

as you can see the guide boss was just streamlined and blended around the top edge, and the sides of it polished.

no trick photography or backlights, they really are that smooth.these shots were not even taken in direct sunlight








[ Edited on 27-11-05 by dumone ]

phat exhaust ports! went right out to the scribe line from the kombi gasket. found out a bit too late that leaving it 1.5mm off the line would have given more low end tourque rather than high rpm flow, but the guide bosses remaining will balance it back a bit.nice oval shape of the short side will help.

i'm stoked, thanx for lookin.

wonder how many hours the combustion chambers and matching the manifolds will take???..... they're next.














[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

well from little things, big things grow

lets match port the manifolds! o.k so the first thing you do is sit them on the heads, only to discover they are loose as buggery on the studs due to years of installing and removal- the holes in the soft aluminum have become oversize.

A fix was soon sorted with some stainless steel bar being turned down and cored to within one poofteenth of nada(not much).put it this way, the studs were 8mm and the holes in the manifolds 9.2mm that makes for a very small bushe.

now thats sorted and they are tight on the heads with no movement-slop-which will allow a good match port to realign each time the manifolds are removed and reinstalled in the future.

next problem

even with the rather large port job i've gone to, the hole in said manifolds aren't quite machined right and open up beyond the edge of the holes in the heads- thats bad and interesting how its on the same point on both-they will have to be tig welded where the blue marker shows, before i can do any more.











[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]

thats a small bush, but surprising how much the mannies moved without em. i never thought i would become this maticulous, having no time goals helps.

there is something sexy about a clean pair of heads with some beefy manifolds sitting atop.we're getting closer SLOWLY.





[ Edited on 14-2-06 by dumone ]

Nice work Damien.

Should be picking up heaps of performance there
:thumb

Great progress pics - it is fantastic to see this sort of detailed rebuild, and all the work involved. It is easy to see how $$ rack up quickly when you have to pay a shop for all the labour to get these things sorted. Well done. :thumb

before you weld them, remove the bushes and see if offsetting one a few mm will get you on track, the holes left in the manifolds may not have been centred.

kkk

It is hard to tell from the photos but the inlets should not be too highly polished. Exhaust ports are great to be very finely polished but the inlet being too smooth will encourage the fuel to liquid rather than keep it atomised.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
hope so astro

thanx sir das, its gonna drag on but thats what i'm trying to show. real v.w motors cost big $$$

nice idea koolkarma, looked at it, but both holes would need rebushing and they seemed to sit parralel to the tappet cover gasket surface idicating a machining fault? damn chinese child slave labour.

hi louis, very true, the end polish is more about pride of workmanship than gaining fractions of H.P yes. some turbulence is good (atomisation). turbulence over lips on things like mismatched manifolds, gaskets and exhausts is bad.realising you would already know that



[ Edited on 20-11-05 by dumone ]

I reckon the level of pride and attention to detail is fantastic. :thumb

true that! love it!

nick

Good Job.. Is that an un-loved dual cab in the background?

still waiting for manifolds to be tig welded, so not much on that front:puke

done a bit more searching for parts though and came up with these babies--1.45 berg rockers N.O.S ---bergs haven't been making these for a while because of a lack of castings and troubles finding a supplier to do em, so scoring these close to home and new at a good price leaves me stoked again. previous owner had em for 18 years and never used em!







should have good progress by tuesday see ya

well the dude with the tig sure welded up the mannies, before they can be matched they will have to be made flat again.........



to do that, first i attacked em with a hand file.
then used a felt pen to blue 'em...

...the blue ink woulld help me make sure i kept the seating surface nice and even/flat as they were rubbed back and forth on wet & dry sand paper-using a sheet of glass underneath to provide a flat, level surface


when the blu had dissapeared (checking regularly so not to go overboard), they were all flat again...


i then marked the manifolds again, ready for porting.....as you can see, even tho i had enlarged the inlets on the heads a lot, the manifolds were cast quite big and re-locating the bushes i installed would have only caused interference on the side that was not welded.
hooray- two steps backwards one forward



thanx for the know how SIR DASSDUBBER:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=27021

[ Edited on 29-11-05 by dumone ]

with the christmas rush done and the kids back to school, it's play time again-hooray

templates

top one was used for original porting, with only one side done to help keep em all even...

i used a material sheet to make tight replicas of the new port job (real tight on the studs) of each head, mainly because i could use a knife to cut it out and as such, not disturb the finished porting job.....

this was then used to make two aluminium gaskets/port replicas, which in turn will be used for each manifold! they will also be used for making custom gaskets in the future when the motor is installed




the aluminium plates were then bolted to the mannies,double checked that they were the right way round!, scribed and then it was back to my old favourite-the bloody die grinder!

1 down 3 to go.

a tad more flow now:thumb

Hey Dumone

Who did your TIG welding, was it local?

Malcom Beverly (Valla Engineering)

well thats one more job done. add another 9 hours for the set up and matching of the manifolds.

next job is to pay a visit to Stan Pobjoy and have the heads opened up for the 90.5mm barrels, then i will be able to unshroud the valves and lay back the combustion chamber.







cleaned up the casting all the way through...




CYA SOON

a broken windscreen and consequent rust, paint, window and rubber replacement has caused delays again, but i have been doing something- no - really.. i have...

the heads are back from stans, so i was able to make some of the gaskets from clinkerite sheeting.

the alloy port replicas were bolted to the manifolds with the roughed out gaskets between and taken close to the mark with the flapper wheel (its very tough sheeting).






i then bolted up the manifolds to the heads (again with gaskets between) and used the scourer pad with a long shaft to "port" the gaskets reaching down thru the manifolds!




it took a couple of hours, but now i have three sets of custom gaskets that sit absoloutely flush in the inlet ports.




[ Edited on 27-3-06 by dumone ]

Great stuff Damo.

How long did it take to drop off and collect the heads from Stan's?

BTW
Did you know that someone stole your car earlier in the week?
I was rounding the round-about near the 'Heads primary skool and passed your car but didn't recognise the driver.

56astro wrote:Great stuff Damo.

How long did it take to drop off and collect the heads from Stan's?

BTW
Did you know that someone stole your car earlier in the week?
I was rounding the round-about near the 'Heads primary skool and passed your car but didn't recognise the driver.

well Stan is an hour away, so it only took 4 1/2 hours to drop them off AND pick them up. before i left i reminded him to only cut to 90.5 size and that i only wanted 1 plug per cylinder.having said that the twin plug job is not all that expensive is it.nice bloke

thats Larry the worlds best panel beater in my car. its not a problem to lend him the bug, he can't drive it any harder than me and if he hits something, its like getting a free Volksrestore panel job:thumb.i hope you noticed the resprayed front end!

[ Edited on 28-3-06 by dumone ]

Good stuff mate - keep them pics coming - hope to catch up for a beer at valla - so many faces to put to (user)names!

dumone wrote:thats Larry the worlds best panel beater in my car. its not a problem to lend him the bug, he can't drive it any harder than me and if he hits something, its like getting a free Volksrestore panel job:thumb.i hope you noticed the resprayed front end!example........

[ Edited on 23-3-06 by dumone ]

Nah mate, didn't see much of the front as he was hooked up sideways around the round-about :P

o.k so with bigger valves installed, the shape and size of the combustion chambers are no longer adequate.

they are also due for enlarging to help flow, both intake and exhaust, with the bigger pistons and cylinders to be used. the gases now have to travel from further away from the center of the head -over a standard set up.

the areas adjacent to the valves will need "unshrouding", so the added flow abilities of the bigger valves can be utilized. they will be taken out towards the edge of the cylinder.

the plug side and opposing sides of the chambers need "laying back" to help direct the gases towards the valves, and encourage good combustion of the fuel by the better efficiency of the spark plugs new exposure....

...anyways, more fuel, better ignition, and quick exiting adds up to more horsepower, so i'm there......!

1st a template will be needed. an icecream lid and a set of berg racing heads, cut for 90.5 with similar size valves and already modified combustion chambers will also come in handy....




GENTLY, GENTLY!, tap around the edges of the chamber with a hammer and you get a pattern ready for cutting out......




cut it out and check how you went. i marked some lines at each of the head stud holes and spark plug hole to help line it up.....



then i blued up my own heads and had a look. the blue areas just under the template is where the material needs to come out of.

i also marked around the seats and plug area,BUT each time a bit of this comes of, i must duely slap myself up the back of the head. or maybe take a break.




looks good, how about down through the cylinder?




looks good through there,the edges of the cylinder sit right on top of the template. but now i'm thinking i might use my actual cylinders to mark the the curves and the template to do the edges along the spark plug and opposing sides.

bugger, now i have scared myself out of it! looks like its time to practice on the worlds most modified, yet usless head.....




that feels better! not a real good representation of how they should look, this one has standard valve seats, so the chambers are "laying" way back! anyways, we will see the real deal tomorrow.

CYA

[ Edited on 27-3-06 by dumone ]

well, spent the best part of the day making some bits and peices to help protect the heads whilst hacking 'em out.:P...

....cut the top off a 92mm piston- to protect the sides of the opened heads.rather a 90.5, but none around. discovered this was very, very helpfull in lineing up the template in each chamber. it provided a reference point from each head stud hole, as well as the spark plug, that could be passed from one chamber to the next.
handy!......

also ground down some valves on both the top and bottoms so they could sit right down on the seat, and leave room to port around the edge......

... made an oversize template to protect the face of the chamber. stan "the man" pobjoy had the forsight to shave these flush so i could get an accurate cc measure down the track. in all likely hood the heads will need fly-cutting again, in case they dont, i will try to protect them.




they are all marked out and ready to go......




....ended up too late to make a start with me ol' mate the die grinder. reshaping the chambers is the sort of thing that needs to be tackled one after the other to help keep it all fresh in the mind,and as such,as even as can be.....

no sense rushing, at least i'm ready for first thing next week

CYA

certainly doing a great job...........what compression ratio will you be running ? Are you going to cc the heads after you change the combustion chambers, I guess this would then mean a trip back to Stan to machine the heads again ?

good work.👍 .......more patient than me !

yep thats the idea craig.

will have to cc them after the chambers are done, then build the bottom end, and see if the size of the chambers will allow a correct deck height, if not i'm thinking flycutting a bit at a time- of one chamber-, till its within cc tollerences, to allow right deck height..........will be the go...... then the others will be fly cut to match..........

or am i overthinking?

8.5 compression with ??(memory) deck height is the aim.

have to set another couple of days aside to visit stan..maybe i will use the courier.........i know all about the adventures of him, you, and numerous others now i have been there already😉.....lurved the airplane engine, full propellor on a stand-CRAZY!

[ Edited on 28-3-06 by dumone ]

set deck height first (machine facing of case), then cc heads to work out how much needs to be machined from the heads.

[ Edited on 28-3-2006 by Craig Torrens ]

mystery!....yes the seats on the case are recessed, but there were barrel spacers included with the kit.

the kit was N.O.S from 1991- needless to say 6.5/1 is no longer neccesary

yeah but the deck height will reign supreme and chambers sized to fit

all i can do at this stage is mimic someone else's head chambers and do some calculating/adjusting down the track to keep the deck height sensible.

which comes first-the chicken or the egg.....

i wouldn't like to tackle modifying the chambers to a pre-determined cc size. i will keep them as even as possible, flycut one till right for deck, machine others...then adjust cc's of all for even compression🤪

thanx

[ Edited on 28-3-06 by dumone ]

yep got some good momentumn going now,

here's a couple of shots as the first chamber was opened up.

around the exhaust, setting up the transition between the turn and lay back of the plug side...


from the turn heading back to join the two sides up....




and blending it accross the top..........




😏

three hours today saw another chamber shaped with a quick polish, ready for fine tuning............looking rather sassy now😏




[ Edited on 4-4-06 by dumone ]

another chamber today, last one tomorrow.

at the moment they are at the first stage.

the "unshrouding" on the corners runs at an angle directly to the outer edge of the valve seats. this was done for a couple of reasons-

this was the easiest way to keep the chambers even, less material out would mean fewer variations

if i busted past the scribe line, a fly cut would run down the angle and bring the edge of the new chambers back within the cylinder walls.

it's looking like they will need a flycut to reduce the cc's, so less material out would help here

the next step is to make a small flat next to the valve seats, with a nice radiused edge running up the chamber wall towards the cylinder. (we're talking around the 2mm size)- thats next weeks challenge, then they're really finished:thumb

[ Edited on 11-4-06 by dumone ]

[ Edited on 8-5-06 by dumone ]

worked on the chambers a bit more today. had to finish off the turns adjacent to the outer edge of the valve seat. gave 'em a proper polish to a mirror finish.

you can sort of see a nice curve from the chamber wall to the seats now.(crappy pics - i miss daylight savings!)







they are sure different to what i started with...




it's all getting a little repetative here, i know. to fix that, the heads are getting outsourced to have the 3 angled valve job and flow tests, which will mean i'm onto the first mock up very soon :thumb

[ Edited on 10-5-06 by dumone ]

Did you happen to have the heads flowed before you did your work?
Id be interested in the results before and after.
Its worthwhile knowing this if you decide to do further work.
L8tr
E

yeah, that for sure, would have been interesting.

the best comparison would come from plain old standards heads, thats where mine started.

anyone know of some flow figures for standard dual ports?

[ Edited on 2-5-06 by dumone ]

Ahhh I see.
For whatever reason, i thought you had bought some trick new heads with the big valves blah!

The I looked closer at the "before" pix where the recesses for the new oversize seats has been cut and thought just perhaps they would not look like that ordinarily.....my bad!

Still, some comparisons would be cool!
lookin good anyway dude.
Its sad that the rules dont allow us to unshroud the valves in Formula Vee! Ahh well!
L8tr
E

getting so close now, just a couple of better shots of the turns i've been raving on about.





as said the wall of the chamber went straight to the edge of the seats before i got in there with a tiny barrel type carbide bit, followed by an emery roll, flapper wheel and then polishing pad.




the smudge above the exhaust seat is just that, a grease smear. this one is finished.

[ Edited on 8-5-06 by dumone ]

kind of a shame you're gonna dirty em up with nasty engine carbon and that. couldn't you just put em on display under a glass coffee table. 🤓

yeah Pete, i'd like that, but the missus wouldn't.
the parts for the engine are now spilling out from under our bed. the best place for it all is in the back of my car.

anyways, the chambers are now finished-hooray!they have been transformed from this.....



TO THIS!!!...




stoked with em....



and blow me down if they don't all look pretty damn even...with 16 hours put into them i would hope so.



[ Edited on 10-5-06 by dumone ]

applause mate!

Are you going to cc them yourself ?

thanx and

yeah, CCing is the easy bit, working out how much to flycut if the cc's need to be reduced will be the hard bit

aarh yes the dry buildup and measure of deckheight.

So much more work goes in than what you are showing.

good on you mate! Keep up the pics.

kkk

funny thing, but as exciting as it is to be starting assembly, i am going to miss having this sort of stuff laying around the house.🙄

heres what's needed for a tuff valve set up.....

manley stainless 40mm inlets and 37.5 exhaust valves...and valve lash caps, not only to protect the end of the valves, but also provide a larger surface for the high ratio rockers pads to contact.

dual valve springs and assorted shims to shove under the springs and shim em up nice and tight-with some clearance left over. they also prevent the spring seats on the heads from getting chaffed.with 1.45/1 rockers, the engine will be lifting .497 at the valve. the springs are safely capable of .600 lift. they will need at least .150 extra travel from coil bind🤪❓

heat treated steel rocker studs-with a little extra length for the ratio rockers

chrome-moly, heat treated retainers...designed specifically to fit their matching springs

.. and hardened keepers that started as solid bar, machined inside and out and then cut in 1/2 to make sure they will never rub together, and keep a proper grip on the valve to eliminate burred up keeper grooves on those pretty valves. stock keepers are made from powdered iron, compressed to shape.

all this has been packed in a box and is on the way to Ben Durie Automotive, where Ben is going to do a nice three angle valve job and cut down the spring guide bosses to fit the inner springs. he is also going to do a flow test when he has the heads set up.






[ Edited on 16-5-06 by dumone ]

i quite enjoy you have un-opened gene berg parts lol

now that is discipline

nick

dumone wrote:yeah, that for sure, would have been interesting.

the best comparison would come from plain old standards heads, thats where mine started.

anyone know of some flow figures for standard dual ports?

[ Edited on 2-5-06 by dumone ]

at 28 inches

well, the heads are finished, and assembled. Ben is saying the ports are very slippery on the flow bench.

He rang me asking how i went about measuring the chamber cc's as they were reshaped. "why?" i say, well they measured up to be 52.0cc, 52.2 cc, 52.2 cc and 52.4 cc! pretty good for a first timer!!

the best news is that with an aim to get 8.5:1 compression, the required deck height will be 1.12mm,- well within reccomended tollerences-stoked!

other things haven't gone so well,

during the tapping of the oil gallery for full flow oiling, i managed to crack the case.:cry

got it sorted tho, a non tappered insert (helicoil) was inserted after drilling out the cracked thread. this insert was inserted past the end of the crack, and a non tappered oil fitting into that. so the insert will now seal of the crack. i'm told there is little chance of it running any further. happy days.

adjacent gallery clearenced, as was the fittings corners and the gallery to be drilled spot faced to allow the pulley tin room to be fitted...



drilled to 9/16 before tapping, man i wish i had forked out for the proper reamer before stuffing up the tapping of it...



the case always looked thin on the top side of the gallery. having done a 1/2 dozen of these before, it took a couple of looks before i could believe that i was really looking at a hair line crack in my brand new case.

all sorted now tho. i have the mag welding rods, but the helicoil looked like a less risky fix.....fitting sealed up at 8 o'clock position...



i think it's mock up time now😵‍💫. we will see....

[ Edited on 25-6-06 by dumone ]

This is the second post I've read today where the case has cracked. I drilled mine today to 9/16 but now I think i'll try and get the 37/64 before tapping and go easy. All looks good though.

a close save eh? 😏

btw, remind me what size is this motor gonna be again?

What's the latest Daimo?

umm, yeah well, been racing....almost forgot about that motor😏

don't worry tho, the darkside has not taken me😀

Thank god for that!
:thumb

Good stuff thus far - looking forward to seeing some more progress! I am sure there are a lot of lurkers like me on this thread that enjoy watching what is going on but not necessarily posting responses! Keep it up!

thanx for the motivational kick up the butt ASTRO, and also Alan. I'm only getting two blocks of four hours each week, so it's slow going:puke racing and the spectacular chewed up a few months- WOW! anyways....

the heads have been assembled. as you can see, after the seats were properly cut,much thanx to BEN DURIE AUTOMOTIVE(clicky, clicky:P) some variations in cc's are evident.....the other head measures 53 cc and 52.6 cc....hmmm what to do?????







guide bosses have been cut down and dual springs are now shimmed and installed.




[ Edited on 17-10-06 by dumone ]

at least all the parts have been taken out of the bedroom and are on the work bench (i had to make that over a couple of weeks as well). the parts cleaning machine has been cleaned and refilled, so i had better get it all washed up for pre assembly before that gets trashed again:thumb. who knows, maybe I can start to do regular updates again...i certainly hope so.




[ Edited on 17-10-06 by dumone ]

Hi Daimo,
What cam and carbs are you using?
What is the lift at the valve?
What exhaust tube diameter?
Good effort on the heads!

cool Dave, i really enjoyed doing the heads, felt like a atomised fuel particle as i studied them at lunch after each mornings work...🤓...before heading back to correct what i found. i can see how doing them for a living could send a person mad too tho.

48 dells, with vents from 35mm to 40mm to choose from......aiming to limit revs around 6500rpm

1.45 rockers with your ol favourite the engle V-26.....so .497 at the valve with springs capable of lifting .600 safely. berg reccomends .150 clearence from bind for street...

got a berg 1 5/8 exhaust......

i could try and take them all out to 53cc, but that would leave a deck height of less than 1mm for my aimed 8.5/1 compression ratio.......thats too small isn't it??

...so i guess i need go out to 53cc and then flycut back to 52 and have a deck around 1.12mm? (memory estimate). or are the variations tollerable?

Ben wasn't keen to take the valve clearence to bind to bergs recomendations.......i will see what they're at now soon.





[ Edited on 17-10-06 by dumone ]

Nice stuff Damien...keep it coming ..intrigued

Provided there are no piston-to-valve clearance issues(I doubt there will be),
I would leave the heads as they are, and run 1mm piston to head clearance.
This will give you 8.47 to 8.52 comp...perfect.
This deck height is fine if measured accurately.

I thought you were joking when you were worried about the head's CC variation.
As you can see, the comp ratio variance is minimal...good work!

The lift at the valve will have to be verified, to calculate the travel required,
but I would install them at .100" over valve lift.

You may have less than this, because of the various parts used,
but .060" from bind is as close as I would ever run(with at least one .015" shim in there).

With that cam and rockers you should be able to run less pressure, but I think you will run out of space.

One of our past customers ran a similar combo (1835, more comp and head work though) to 6800 launch and shift point,
in a drag engine, and the valve train was trouble free.

38 vents max...35 will drive very sweet!
Man that is a very supoib combo!

:beer.. wonderful info as usual Dangerous. THANX!....it sure is nice to have another couple of excuses out of the way🙂

[ Edited on 17-10-06 by dumone ]

yes, well, get on with it then!

Alright allready!!!

the case got a bath and first step was checking the cam bearingsand cam end play. copper face thrust bearings fit A.O.K.



cam was checked in both halves of the case, and a tapping noise when shifting it end to end indicates a small amount of endplay...


.002- .005 play is required and needs to be measured with the case torqued up with 1 and 4 main bearings in place....




cam was a nice snug fit in the gear...




adjustment of timing is ganied via different offset washers, and rotates the cam in relation to the gear by up to 4.5 degress either side of TDC (the holes in gear itself are sloted)...




oil pump to cam gear bolt clearence looks good too...




[ Edited on 6-11-06 by dumone ]

good stuff, when are we gonna see it all run? :bounce

it will run when EVERYTHING has been cleaned,fitted, checked, adjusted, re cleaned and then fitted again.:kiss....the thing is, all you will see "run" is the fan belt, and pulleys:thumb, all tho i too enjoy them, there's not much to be learnt from a picture of a pretty tin wear set on a completed motor. when i started this thread, there was alot of arguing going on about how much work was in the build of an engine, what $$$ they were worth blah blah...i saw many people add up the cost of the major parts, forgetting about all the "in between" pieces and measuring/adjusting, that all cost more money....i saw posts about changing cams but nothing else:jesus.... anyways i'd be happy to have the engine done reguardless of wether or not people even read this, it's all about the journey thus far, and i hope i can continue with that in mind, rather than hand over all the parts to a builder to have the pleasure of assembling a brand spanking new motor. for sure, THIS IS!, the worlds slowest engine build:blush

....still pushing in the right direction, the cam thrust float was opened from .001" to .002" today....i polished the thrust area on the cam until it was smooth, re checked the float and found it necessary to "sand" the two thrust bearings to gain the amount needed, job done....

time to check the cam to lifter clearence....wash em up and inspect for burs. these have been clearenced under the head, and also cut between the oil rings to provide constant oil pressure thru the lifters when using ratio rockers....



they all went down the lifter bores in the case nice and snug, except one that sat up from the case, hmmm. it turned out to be the smallest fault in the case at the very bottom of the lifter hole, small enough for the chamfered end of the cam follower to go over, but not the rest,a few strokes of a file and it was gone. i guess this is why each and every part has to be checked individually, with nothing to be taken for granted👍....
as expected, the machined lifters had heaps of room from the cam nose! so there was no need to be machining the case half of the deal :thumb....






[ Edited on 13-11-06 by dumone ]

next thing is to check the back lash on the timing gears, the best excuse to start assembly on the crank shaft eva!

yummy!....



off to the parts washer again, grumble grumble grumble.then pressure clean, then blow dry, then oil......

timing gear parts...


once again check for faults on ALL parts......get some heat into the gears and drop em on.....in the right order and correct way round mind you.....




now we got progress, WHOO HOO!

Great stuff Daimo
👍

Lovin the pics mate - looking forward to the next step!

onto the rods.... these babies are bored end to end as a set for equal length, magnafluxed, glass beaded, recoed big ends, new gudgeon pin bushings done, new bolts and finally weight balanced.......



they still need to be checked for burs etc all over, i found a couple of dags hanging where the nuts land, that needed cleaning up.......you can see here where material was taken off to get them weight balanced end to end....



with the big end bearings snapped into place (checking the tangs lined up and numbers matched on both cap and rod), it was relatively simple to install them. side play was present (not measured yet) and they all spun on the journals easily:thumb

a check on the bearings in the case came up good...all nice and tight and marked them at the split of the case as a refernce point to check they're home once they go in with the crankshaft. (i previously checked the front main before it was installed on the crank)...


....

dropped in, no dramas....clearance looks good, but need to set end play with flywheel before i can be sure...



the crank turned freely and didn't pull the cam up out of the sadles. the tiniest amount of backlash can be heard, but not felt, looks promising.



from the above couple of posts, it's easy to invisage how a helical cut cam gear forces the cam to load up against the thrust bearing.......and hell, i lurve the sound of steel on steel straight cuts👍....

the second halve of the case slipped straight home...all good:thumb

Man I'm getting excited for you! That first turn of the key (if in car) or push of button (or whatever if on a stand) will be filled with nervous anticipation and excitement! It will be all the more rewarding when it all goes to plan 😉

Nice work Daimo, your effort so far is excellent, i love building these engines, will be building a 1916 for my mate soon, then another 1916cc for myself, then a big type 4. I love checking and rechecking all points of assembly but valve train geometry is the most time consuming, but well worth the effort, building a custom VW engine sure is more fun than the PT6A turboprops i build every day at work. Cheers Damo.

OK Daimo, Monday and Tuesday (your work-on-engine days) have just passed. Where's the update and pics - you know we all love pics.
👍

ooorkay, a few updates lost in the crash astro, it's coming along.......

washed up the lightened flywheel-you can see the material has been taken from the outer most part-this reduces weight as far from the center as possible, and importantly leaves the backside of the clutch area as thick as possible, thus not reducing it's ability to remain rigid.......



....by taking measurements from the thrust surface of the rear bearing to the crankshafts end, and the depth of the cranks seating depth in the flywheel we were able to calculate the thickness of the three shims needed to set end play (.004") worked a treat!....did you know one of the 8 dowels is offset so it can only go on the crankshaft one way? (match balanced)....and man, it's a tight fit!!!!!!!



[ Edited on 13-12-06 by dumone ]

deck height????

with the bottom end pre assembled, it's time to look at the deck height and work out how to set a 8.5:1 compression ratio.....

the pistons and cylinders needed washing first.......



90.5mm pots honed by bergs over 15 years ago! correct storage means the cross hatch pattern left by this honing is still good .....cross hatch pattern is clear to see...luurvely, one less job!.....



pistons have also been "matched balanced"......you can see were material has been taken out above the gudgen pin seat, to make each pistons weight equal ...the one which was lightest of the set (benchmark) remains untouched in this area....



ALL rings were individually laid into the ctylinders and their end gaps checked.......all good!....



so what about the deck height/compression prospects??
the crankcase had the barrels mounting surface machined at bergs....this re-introduces a proper width seat after the spiggot holes have been machined to accept the larger O.D barrels......it turned out this area was machined down to provide a zero deck heoght with the supplied P & B set......happy days- a .040" spacer combined with the CC's of my heads, will provide a minimum tollerence deck height along with the desired 8.5:1 compression (which was calculated as suitable for 97.5 octane fuel)....



[ Edited on 13-12-06 by dumone ]

all this is aiming towards getting the "bottom end" ready for final assembly...what else needs 'doin?....

deep sump fiddling...

reving the V.W engine well past it's factory design will introduce oil starvation issues......the factory sump will drain itself before the oil can return to the pick up area via nothing more than gravity (hard cornering dosn't help either and there will be more solutions to this later) BEARINGS NEED OIL!....solution-an extended sump!...

being an older design, mine needed some updating.i want to use the later style "step nuts" so as to utilse a longer holding thread. i need to drill the mounting holes out....




...loctite some longer studs into the engine case....



and some into the sump bottom, leaving the correct amount of thread sticking out on the bottom side, so the factory acorn nuts won't bottom out before sealing the oil in ......



all good....

oil pick up tube needed to be extended to match... it was removed and braised up......



it also needed bending to aim at the center of the sump plate. (factory pick ups often don't and the extension amplifies this). the priciple behind the "cow magnet" is that it will stop any "hard" metals going thru and damaging the oil pump gears and body. softer materials will be easily lunched by the pump and strained out by the remote filter, which is the first stop after the pump, before they are able to stuff the rest of the motor.the extended pick up was "loctited" back into the crankcase and it's holding stud permanantly locked down....




"aim" of pick up checked out good.....step nuts worked well after their washers were ground down on the outside edge (the flange in the older sump didn't allow for these).....they sure are easier to get started on the thread with fat fingers, are too big to fall into the sump of a sealed bottom end and provide a lot more peace of mind than tiny M6/10mm spanner nut....win win!....




whilst fiddling with threads and loctite, the opportunity was taken to back out the two studs at the case front. this was the only area that couldn't be machined deep enough for the larger washers and nuts of the modification




[ Edited on 13-12-06 by dumone ]

headstuds....

factory 8mm jobbies, black oxidised to protect against corrosion. 4 short, only three medium, 'cause 9 long ones accomidate for the deep seated outside stud at the number three position.



a mock up of the needed length was set up. the studs turn in by hand, and only need to be deep enough for the nut to have a thread full. the studs don't need to be bottomed out or tourqued into the case inserts, as this could damage them



after the height was figured, i took the cylinders out of the way, backed each stud out by a couple of turns, added a couple of drops of "lock stud", then turned em back in the two turns again.


whalaaaa..



better mock it back up to check before the loctite sets up...exhaust ports are looking rather large too...



looks good to me. sump looks schweet ...



[ Edited on 14-12-06 by dumone ]

a look inside the pressure relief oil pump cover. cold oil causing excessive pressure in the external lines is relieved back to the suction side of the oil pump. cool.



...and the other side...studs were locked in at the necessary length.




dizzy drive gear has been shimmed, checked for binding issues and timed ready for assembly....you can just pick the oil slot in the bottom of the distributor is in the correct position



[ Edited on 14-12-06 by dumone ]

a final check on the CAM end play with the dial idicator...... a 'lil over .002"


no more excuses, grabbed some of my old mates,



loctited the rod bolts at 24ft/pd, and cam bolts at 24ft/pd......pulled it all down and cleaned it again.

then!!!!!!!!




i like that piccie😂....i can see i remebered the 6 orings, cam plug, break in lube and even telll the bearings are sitting home!......better get the top on before it sets....

six center main (19mmm nuts w/ washers) were tourqued, in a criss cross pattern, to 32 ft/pd!!!.. the outer (15mm headstud size nuts and washers) were set at 20ft/pd!!!!!!!!.. lifter clips held the cam followers in place






[ Edited on 5-2-07 by dumone ]

"borrowed" gallery plug was replaced to make the pump full flow again and oring on housing (rear) fitted....




dry build ups make these bits easy....... having previously checked cam/pump clearance and gear depth, all that was needed was a quick check with a straight edge........all flush. gears were smeared with grease to help prime when first cranking (they weren't designed to pump air)




😉 looks the same as a couple of weeks ago, with the addition of a dizzy, fuel pump breather and oil lines. at least i can't take any more boring bottom end piccies for the next few years







[ Edited on 19-12-06 by dumone ]

pure dub porn mate!

back again.....

flywheel seal was pushed in with this handy "little" tool,



after graphite coated oring was installed, then oiled in the flywheel it was tightened up and endplay checked out at .004"




6 1/4 pound "equalizer"pulley , super pulley bolt & dual bevillie spring washers ....why?, these washers wont bend or crush when torqued to even 100ft/pd (be sure of your cranks quality first tho😏 )




tourqued up to 75ftpd to check for TDC...




turning the crank clockwise and stopping 5degrees from the marked TDC, then i wound in the bolt on the deck plate till it just touched the piston...........then the crank was turned anti-clockwise till the piston again touched the bolt on the other side of TDC........the middle of these two readings is the "corrected" TDC position on the pulley




now with the pulley checked, the crank was positioned at true TDC and the deck height measured....1mm or 0.040" all good!




pistons were marked to set the placement of the ring gaps......the small arrow on the right must point to the flywheel, this is how i staggered the gaps

oil ring (groove closest to engine case)

bottom scraper at 2 o'clock
expander at 12o'clock (these are painted red and green on each end so when installed you must see both colours otherwise it is overlapped)
top scraper at the 10 o'clock position

second ring, total seal(two parts)

primary ring gap at 2 o'clock (top part)
second seal ring was peeled in underneath with it's gap at 8 o'clock, or 180deg. away from the primary gap

top compression ring

the gap here was again positioned at 10 o'clock





:blah:blah:blah really......

[ Edited on 5-2-07 by dumone ]

Not blah blah blah at all mate - I'm enjoying seeing it all come together! Slow and steady wins the race 🙂

thanx Alan.........it all got to me for the first time today, wanted the heads on,but alas, maybe tomorrow....then i can flange the exhaust so it can be coated and plan how the 4 rocker cover oil drains need to be routed back to the sump....

more today, here's the different colours on the oil expander...




you can see here how the total seal works....this ring was one of the originals with the P & B set and has been converted to total seal....the bottom of the ring is precision "ground" about 2/3 of its depth, leaving a step on its inside diameter (not visible here), then another ring sits on this created seat to provide the "gapless" effect:thumb




internal circlips are my preference over the original "wire" pin keepers....being a "stamped" item, they must be installed with sharp side away from gudgeon pin




rocker oil drains i speak of will be set up similar to this....returning the oil that gathers in the covers straight back the deep sump to avoid oil starvation due to high R.P.M and cornering G-forces




[ Edited on 6-2-07 by dumone ]

wanted to check how the "cool tinz" fitted, they had to be clearenced because the main studs interfered with em........




at this point, a self inflicted golf ball lump on my noggin got me thinking my luck was out for the day.......i decided not to install the cylinders, but continue along with mocking and see how the exhaust checked out.....enjoy, i did!!!







The story by Jeff on these T.B's
All the way along, speedway racers have used mechanically run fuel injection (PI) pumps (the pump was actually belt driven off the front pulley) which then pressure fed alcohol to the injectors. The mixture settings were a 'black art', changed by the fitting of larger or smaller pills. This system worked really well compared to carburettors for methanol guzzling flat out racing type applications but was as subtle as a fart in the state library when it came to daily driver applications.

Volkswagen has used (on some models more successfully than others) varying Bosch fuel injection systems

The early TLE T3 Volkswagens and 76 to 82 two litre air cool’ds ran the Bosch 'D' Jetronic and 'e' Jetronic respectively. The injectors tended to wear relatively quickly and the system ran lean causing overheating, premature engine wear and burnt valves. More than half of the models fitted with this model PI would now have been converted to carbies

The 1900 and 2.1 waterboxers ran Digijet and Digifant systems respectively; GTI Golfs—L Jetronic; VR6 Golfs— Motronic; Audis varied from KE Jetronic to L Jetronic systems.

As can be seen there were many and varied systems manufactured mainly by Bosch. However, they did have mixture trims but could not be drastically 'retuned' to take into account larger capacities, long duration cams etc and that means all the nice hot up work that we VW loonies do to our motors to get them to perform and goooooo!

The PI system that I am writing about here is the Haltech F3 Programmable Fuel Injection (HPPI). This system uses a very sophisticated programme that is accessed through any IBM compatible 386 or 486 laptop computer.

Don't think for a moment it is a job that you can do with a few mates on Saturday arvo' with a case of beer and a few tools. It definitely is not, but by the same token if you take you time, plan it out and get some correct advice from someone who has fitted one, the job is not very daunting. This is especially so now that PPI has been around for about six or so years and all the ancillary parts are pretty well available off the shelf or can be sourced second hand from a wrecker of late model cars.

The great advantage of PPI is the varying applications that it can be matched to, such as; Multiple throttle body direct port injection, single throttle body direct port injection, single throttle body single injector injection, single throttle body direct port turbo intercooled, multiple throttle body direct port supercharged, single throttle body direct port staged (second set of injectors phased in at say 1.0. bar boost ), turbo intercooled, single or multiple throttle body direct port, staged injector supercharged. The last two can be set up so that the second set of injectors can be programmed to come on at any rev point or pre-determined boost pressure.

Add to this the newer systems which allow for total engine management i.e.; timing function as well, you could very easily get that retard on your dizzy when the boost comes in, to stop all that pinging and detonation on a boosted engine system. Basically they can do any configuration engine! Full stop!

Once upon a time there were two VW psychopaths... In 1988 Joe Smith and myself were racing the 'Bug out off Hell" race car under the Rogwin Motorsport banner in the NSW Hill Climb Championship. As the racing fever got hotter and hotter we kept upping the ante to try and catch the three litre Porsche of David Withers (eternal optimism had us entered in the 2-3 litre Road Registered Class in a 1904 cc 'dub (74 x 90.5). ( Funny, the 2161 cc (84 x 90.5) motor never did eventuate that year). We had started off with 45 Dell's and standard valve ported Berg heads and ended up with a set of 48 IDA's (a friend had bought them back from the States and Henry Spicak had set them up for us) and a set of Mark Walker 40 x 37.5 ported heads. The passion for speed was still there as David ended up taking out the championship by seven points; Joe and myself finishing third and second respectively. We must have made an impact coz' Porsches were no longer allowed to run the Road Registered class only as Marque Sports Cars for 1989.

It was during the later half of'88 that a friend of a friend (Wayne Glasser) had started taking a fair bit of interest in our racing activities and was calling around a couple of days a week hassling us to try one of the new Haltech systems. I cannot remember what I had sold but the money from its sale went into the purchase of Haltech F3 unit number 25.This was early days for PPI and I hadn't yet come to grips with computers so the unit just sat there for a couple of months.

Besides 1988 being our Bicentenary Year it was also a pretty big year for us with all the racing and the prospect of strutting our stuff in the hot-mix lap dash battle at Valla Park in August. As it turned out, Jeff and Joe always headed up to Valla early so we could have a bit of a rest before the VW invasion took place.

Donna Pell had told us that we would have to meet Gene and Dee Berg at Nambucca Railway Station. We were the two free souls up here who had nothing else better to do. For the previous years all we had heard was "Berg this, Berg that" from Richard so we joked about being like Moses and having to go to the station and receive the Ten VW Commandments (For those of you who don't know Richard, he has the ability to talk a Tom Thumb bunger up to a Hiroshima H bomb blast. There's no disrespect there Richard but you had us feeling pretty awed out.)

We picked up Gene and Dee and had a great night playing carpet bowls in at the Valla Resort and talking big motors. We talked more after the practice session on the Friday and had soon ordered a set of 44 x 37.5 heads, 84 wedgemated crank and flywheel, Carrillos etc. Over the weekend I had told Gene about this new high tech HPPI system that we had bought. He was excited about the concept and agreed that if it did do what was claimed it would be a world first—he couldn't come to grips with the programme that would be needed to analyse all the different inputs from the sensors and then trigger the injectors.

As it turned out Gene had been playing around with both turbos and supercharging and mechanical fuel injection—the same old problem—lean out at elevated boost pressures. And, yes he did have a couple of what he termed 'crude throttle bodies' that would fit onto a 48 IDA manifold. Gene had always talked about his pile of discarded VW parts that hadn't come up to required standard—well it wasn't until I was over there two years later that I got to look at the pile—he must have just about tested every VW hot up part that was ever made, as well as the prototypes of his own that were never made! " Yeah, Sure ' Gene said," you can have them." The first parts on the shopping list found. You bloody beauty! Our friend Wayne Glasser took the Scat track inlet manifolds and managed to graft on a patch of alloy with his TIC, so we had a platform on which to mount a set of Camira fuel injector holders. We put the whole set up in the mill, bored a hole and there was our first set of direct port injection manifolds. Now it was time to fit up the injectors. "Well what size are you going to use"? He asked.

"How much horsepower are you going to make?" asked Wayne. " The old 1904 with 40/37.5 heads, K8 cam, 45 dual Dell's and 1-5/8 merged exhaust put out 132 HP on the Maztech dyno ' I replied. So this 2161 with 50mm throttle bodies, FK87 cam,1-3/4" race merged exhaust and so on would have to run at least 200hp." The calculations were done and a set of Bosch 0280 1500 34-060 injectors were fitted up to the now modified manifolds.

Due to the non-availability of such simple parts as fuel injector rails we had to put on the thinking caps to come up with simple solutions. The fuel rails were made using brass 'T' pieces inter connected with small lengths of PI hose from Tooleys. Not the prettiest fuel rail but it sure worked. The list went on, a real Hitchhikers Guide to the Retrofitting of PPI onto a Bug.

The throttle bodies that Gene had sent were void of any velocity stack or ram tube so they too had to be made.

It was now time to fit the whole lot up on the motor in the car. The fuel rails stuck out as far as a stallion would approaching a mare. So we pulled everything out after marking out the areas to be cut. A combination of jigsaw and die grinder seemed to work best and after three attempts and three hours everything seemed to fall into place. The only other problem was that so much dirt and rocks could get into the engine compartment so we had to devise a seal to go over the rail. Six self tappers and a hunk of inner tube were all that were needed. A phone call to Finer Filters had the air filter made up and dispatched in two days.

Now that all the engine compartment manifolding and rails were in place it was time to run the tank fuel line from the tank to the pressure regulator and return line. We opted to run the fuel injection hose tie strapped to the outer pan rails down each side. The fuel pump and filter were mounted on the front of the pan opposite the master cylinder. A larger fuel tank outlet (7mm) was made from a barbed fitting to match up with the PI hose. The return line was routed so it dumped into the petrol tank filler neck—only two late nights for this one!

We had been advised by the powers that be (Mark Boxsell from EFI Technologies ) to fit a fuel pressure gauge to help with the initial Haltech set up, so a 0-500 kpa VDO gauge was purchased and fitted on the interior of the rear firewall.

Next was the CPU (Central Processing Unit) which was mounted on a one millimetre thick aluminium sheet, acting as the drivers side rear trim. Rubber mountings were used to isolate the CPU from our race suspension. A mini electrical board was also fitted with fuses and push on terminals to facilitate the set up.

The fuel pump relays and associated wiring were run and hey presto! The only thing remaining was to run the loom through the firewall into the engine bay and connect the various sensors. |

Who were we trying to kid? Still more to do.

As the Haltech CPU was set up for MAP (manifold absolute pressure) as opposed to throttle position we drilled and tapped each inlet manifold runner about two inches under the butterfly shaft and fitted up four brass fittings that would take ordinary braided vacuum line. These hoses were then connected up to a fabricated metal vacuum box that would average out the vacuum pulses so a static single vac' signal could be fed into the MAP input of the CPU.

The mixture trims wiring was temporarily run from the CPU along the centre main loop of the roll bar using tie straps. This trim would then be used to do the initial set up of the fuel curves. When I say initial, the big plan was to fit in a Celica fuel curve, do the start up tuning by ear running through the rev ranges in neutral, 'til we had a clean running engine that was at least able to drive out of the workshop and onto the road. Once on the road with an oxygen sensor enema we could then actually get the motor tuned using the mobile exhaust gas analyser (EGA) in conjunction with the + or—10% mixture trim and laptop computer. At a later date a dyno-session was to be organised to maximise the fuel curves for performance and power.

Even though we were totally and utterly stuffed by this time adrenaline soon overtook tiredness as the motor fired up first go (after getting the initial fuel pressure by turning the ignition key on and off end listening to the fuel pump purging all the air from the system. To start off with you couldn't really rev the motor as there were load points at which the mixture was wrong (it may have been correct for the Celica but not this 2161 boxer with balls.) It was crying out for more fuel! With Wayne Glasser and Mark Boxsell hovering over the EGA and laptop it was hard for us two mortals to get even a look in as to what was being fiddled with.

Time out for the two Js while the two EFI crazies waved their magic mixture trim over the CPU. Sitting outside the workshop we were numbed by the feeling of accomplishment, that yes this had been the first HPPI fitted to a VW, our ears were ringing to the sound of the 1-7/8" merged with a Supertrapp, the whine of the straight gears and our noses were blessed with the aroma of BP100 wafting out from within the bowels of Rogwin.

Before we actually had time to get the caffeine buzz Wayne and Mark had gone through the revs up to 6000 so there were no apparent "no load" dead spots only the raw bark of a boxer on heat! It had only taken 15 minutes. It was now time for the first test flight.

The oxygen sensor wiring was taped to the bumper, whale tail, roof gutter and then into the cabin. Mark adjusted the seat belt tightly (perhaps he knew how fast we were actually going to be going or maybe had seen through my hell-bent eyes).


The same process as before was going to be used go though the various rev ranges in 1000 rpm intervals, get all the load points correct using the mixture trim to change the mixture which was monitored on the EGA. Piece of Piss.

The only major problem encountered was that it was completely useless using the first two gears as they disappeared into the next before you had time to make any adjustments! Third was chosen as it gave us a little more time. As the load points were tuned the mixture trim came into its own—the motor would be lead at say 4000 revs—mixture trim 10% richer—wambo—the car took off like I just hit a nitrous button!

Half an hour later the really fine tuning was in progress, third gear disappearing as quick as the full feeling after a Chinese meal. Top gear! More hassles here, we were starting to go too bloody fast. Poor Mark was stuffed into a standard 1500 low-back seat, had to juggle the EGA on his left knee, the laptop on the other to adjust the mixture trim and hit the update button on the laptop with Jeff "Rocketman Onion" Unwin driving from 2000 to 7500 rpm in top gear around the back streets of Taren Point. I think Mark must have had a set of "tear off" undies that night, coz the stress was starting to show!


In between all this trauma we did have some success which the history books proudly show but space limitations here prevent us from reporting.

Over the preceding pages I have referred to load points, an explanation is needed. If you look at a carby, it has basically three load points i.e.; idle speed and mixture, progression circuitry for transition from pilot to main circuit and the main circuit itself. The 48-IDA is a very easy carte to tune but does not exhibit much smoothness as it has no progression; basically it should be used for idling in the pits or flat out racing around; not for driving on the street for which it was never designed. The greater the number of load points the better or smoother the engine will run. What we found was that the HPPI filled in the gap under which the cam kicked in, by virtue of its 512 load points. It's like a virtual reality thing—being sucked into feeling that the motor isn't going that hard whereas it has so much more bottom end that the cam step doesn't appear to be that big at all.

I'll never forget going out to Kurnell in the wet one night with the Bug Out of Hell having 185/70/14 tyres on and being able to squeeze the throttle at 80kmh in top gear and having both tyres light up and keep spinning through to an indicated 120kays. That’s drivability at a rev range that would bog down with carbes and a similar camshaft.

In conclusion there is no doubt PPI is here, this is 1994 and we are heading towards 2000 so if you want to upgrade and update your ride so it is as smooth as all the other 1994 PI cars give PPI a really big sussout before purchasing a bigger set of carbes.By the time 50 minutes had elapsed, we were adjusting the accelerator pump functions of the Haltech, i.e.: length of time of injection and decay of pump stroke. In five minutes there were no more flat spots. s it turned out, we never did get to put that motor on the dyno. We ran the 2161 for about four months but had heaps of trouble with oil surge- the jump from Road Registered Class type tyres to Sports Sedan slicks, stiffer suspension, sway bars and much, much more power soon turned into a total nightmare. This motor suffered a terminal blow up while representing NSW at the Morwell Interstate Hillclimb Challenge—kicking two Carrillos out the top of an ARPM case, creating a five piece camshaft, destroying two pistons and liners and digging a three mil' gouge into the crank!

I can joke now but all was not lost as the pieces ended up becoming the dreaded "Bent Carrillo Trophy" the most feared award at the annual Hillclimb presentation night. If you "win" this one, you've had the best engine blow, bar none, for the year.








having destroyed a ceramic coated "flimsy brand" set with in months on my current set up, the BERG 1 5/8 set was no comparison, proper 4 into 1, thick flanges, and tight joins were obviosly a different standard of quality

that is HORN! 🥷

Ooohhh yess... I'm liking those EFI jobbies... :thumb

beautiful!

love the vise grip wall unit 😉

do you fit anything above the intakes so it doesnt swallow small children, birds, track marshalls?

Crikey, talk about not doing things by halves. I'll bet there are brain surgeons who are less precise in their work than you. :thumb :thumb :thumb

thanx.

squeezed in an extra couple of hours today. first the cylinders were loaded into the barrels on the bench with one circlip installed and the gudgeon pin hanging out. sorry no time for a pretty pic🤓.....bead of prematex blue was run under and on top off the 0.040" spacer.....with all the push rod tubes stretched and seals on, off we went....




a little trick learnt was to sit the cool tinz on top of the readied pushrod tubes😁, so they are not forgotten...doh!...wasn't too late.......perhaps a lot more concentration was going into making sure the arrows on the pistons were pointed to the flywheel, the ring gaps and circlips were positioned correctly.........torqued down 22 pds.... 'lil big ports😎




long block is coming along ......thats all torqued and permanent now........stoked😎





[ Edited on 10-2-07 by dumone ]

pushrods and rocker geometry.....

ooorkay, moving right along, time to work out the pushrod length

a quicky of the keepers mentioned before, here you can see the gap so the two halves won't rub together and loose grip on the valve



before setting up the rockers the studs were swapped out for these longer heat treated puppies, and lash caps need to be installed too.......




looks the goods there.....



lash caps not only protect the valve stem, but also provide a larger area for the rocker "foot" to work on.




alignment to each valve looks spot on........






[ Edited on 12-2-07 by dumone ]

hhhmmmmmmmmmm..........

where to start???

what are we trying to achieve?

well we want the rocker foot to use, as close as possible, the center area of the lash cap, by doing so, the valves will not suffer undue side loads in the valve guides .....consequently wearing them, also wrecking seat sealing...... side play shimms of the rocker assembly will set the horizontal alignment here....

shimms under the rocker stands (or machining the rocker assembly stands lower).... will change where the "foot" rides on the valve lash cap in the vertical sense
(things like how deep the valve seats are cut, thickness of the lash caps and length of valves will affect the need to shimm.......or not:o)

we want the rocker foot centered on the valve tip!!


adding to this, we ultimately need the adjusting screw/cups to be horizontal with the pushrodsat half lift.......this will mean the lift forces will be spread accross the entire cup as the push rod moves the rocker arm up AND AWAY on it's designed arc...........not setting this up means the pushrod will start with it's load to one side of the adjusting screw, and only put more load into that side as it lifts, bearly using the topside at all........not good..........

so we want the push rod and valve adjusting cup screw square at half lift !!, this means the best compromise has been achieved...........ultimately this is achieved by having the correct length push rod

^^my previous post pics will help understand this babble^^

how was i going to get all that right??????🤪

bergs instructions were to simply install the rockers with only 1 1/2 threads of the valve adjustment cup screw sticking out from the jam/locking nut, being aware BERG adjusters have very little adjustment so to keep the geometry and oiling of them within workable tollerances ....an adjustable pushrod at TDC, and open it up till the rocker touched the valve with your engines future valve clearance------ that would be the needed length of your push rods.......JOB DONE ????????............would this allow good geometry through the entire lift range?? (as described above) ......my cousin who did a stint at bergs says Clyde could never understand the trouble of doing the half lift method....did this mean their method worked just as well, maybe it was because BERG parts are designed well enough to work "out of the box"!?!?!?.....maybe i should email them....NAH!.too easy

the half lift method requires measuring the total ACTUAL lift using a dial indicator..........then checking the geometry at half this amount (half lift) to see if the pushrods are appropriate length BUT you can't turn the motor over with an adjustable push rod..........

how can i be sure if i can't do this?....cut and assemble to the adjustables length and see after my new push rods are done.......what if they're too short/long???....game over??

..........maybe a lighter checking spring would be the answer.....nah.......although having the tool to do a swap with the engine assembled, as i have done, i want to check the actual springs and avoid the hassle:thumb

maybe some pics will help explain..........

how lucky can someone be?.... if i get the needed length, using the adjustable rod, pretty close with the BERG METHOD (doesn't require spring loads on adjustable push rod).can i find a assembled set a matching length to check using the HALF LIFT METHOD WITH MY ACTUAL SPRINGS????

..................I'M FEELING LUCKY😁 ...........




surely, there are soo many to choose from 😂 barely a couple of thou between some!!.but that will be the difference between a win and loose because of the narrow operating range of the cup adjusters (only 2.5 MAX threads of adjustment remember)




the four together there below are my last chance........earlier i made the decision that time spent removing rockers to gain access to adjust adjustable pushrod (easier would have been a dry fit of heads without pushrod tubes)......may as well be spent fitting these sets that looked close......

left of the adjustable are too long, right of the verniers too short.......





IT'S MY LUCKY DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

they are perfect, with the adjusters threads as bergs describe, i've got .005" valve clearance............now i can look at geometry before i cut mine to the same length!

a dial indicator needs setting up. using the exhast nuts to mount a bracket, i can read off the side of the spring retainers........




the following shows, that yet again i'm using 15mm head nuts and washers to hold the rockers AND just how' lil thread is above the jam nut, there ain't much more on the underside of the rocker either.........dial guage is set at zero and crank at TDC so rocker is 0.005" clear of the valve



lets see........checking the position of the foot.

AT T.D.C (no lift).......





running up to full lift, the measurment was 13.84mm, so at half lift or 6.92mm on the dial, i stopped and took a picture:duh





and at the measured full lift now......




what about on the cup screw end??????

at TDC (no lift).......




at half lift... that looks square to each other to me👍




and at full lift....you can see here the relartionship between the cup and push rod has gone either side of square but not too extreme either way.....




[ Edited on 13-2-07 by dumone ]

[ Edited on 15-2-07 by dumone ]

how does the intake valve look???




















so after all that it looks like the BERG method, although simple, provides the desired reults throughout the lift range...........i wonder if it could work with other brand components??..........not beig rude, the berg quality is meaning there are few surprises

[ Edited on 13-2-07 by dumone ]

looking good................love the throttle bodies👍

thanx Craig, the bodies are from the original flamed hellbug, and were up and running over 20 years ago!!!!!!!...that would be close to the first EFI bug wouldn't it?........they are billet aluminium made here in Australia (Mark Walker did em ?).......yes they are beautifull big, and classed as unobtainium.......but i'm working on that part :P...i'm hoping to see some pics of your tricks this year Craig..07 was supposed to a biggy was it not?........oh and welcome back, i missed ya.well was concerned about your lack of posting anyways😀

keen observers would have noticed the pushrod tubes only have the one end "crushable. the end at the head is flared to allow room for the pushrods inside......ratio rockers cause them to move out of center in the tubes....




did i need them??????.........😏










👍 think so......

about the lift amount

.343" (8.71mm).....

...at the cam is whats on the tags for the 309 cam....

..with my 1.45 ratio rockers this should then at the valve be....

.497" (12.62mm)

it measured out to be....

.545" (13.84mm) - exhaust valve

&

.548" (13.92mm)- intake valve

why?? well the berg rockers are guaranteed to lift AT LEAST the advertised ratio, and because of the excellent design of the foot area, this ratio will actually increase towards the tip of this foot......

i'm happy with those numbers,hope they all check out as even, we're looking good here..

next job is to check each valve for measured lift and check the clearance of the valve retainer on the guide top and for the springs coil bind......

so once i found the needed pushrod length, i was able to cut mine to size (3/8"chrome molly/0.035" wall thickness). they needed to be shortened by .340".......and are only reemed for the heat treated "may west full ball" end enough to be cut .350" from the unassembled end, another stroke of luck:thumb.





using a dial indicator on the lathe bit, this was done, and the I.D of them de-burred ready for assembly.two lifters are used for installing the ends.....i took the liberty of using the age old method of fire and ice to make it easier to get them straight at the start........placing the end balls in the freezer while the rods were left in the sunshine.




i cut the material beyond the cup in the top lifter to make it easier to watch as the ball was driven home.....




job done...........😎




mentioned before, the 1.45 rocker were picked up NOS as a private sale..........the previous owner had a play with the shimm arrangement, leaving too much side play in the arms for my liking, i wanted it no more than 0.005"........so now it was my turn to play😏




it was a good chance to have a look at how the oiling of the arms is achieved.........you can see just how little adjustment is available of the cup screw under and above the arm and why this was done so to keep the oliing hole in the screw located correctly..........the jam nuts are tiny so only a small amount of thread is needed on the outside, that way there will be no tappet cover clearance issues at lift:thumb.........i like the proper reemed bushings, no rollers there!




eventually i got the side play i was after, with a maximum of 0.005"..........i had to sand a little on one side of the stand block to get enough clearence for one of the intake arms........apart from that shimms worked fine.

very cool. you make it so easy...and cheap. :duh

ummmm, yeah, well Pete................nevermind......

soooooooo, after sitting down and really checking out the intital numbers above, it's looking like those "1.45" rockers are ACTUALLY 1.54's😬........that's thrown everything out of whack!!

it's been back to the drawing board/calculator/dial indicators measuring up a new set of lift numbers (now with my assembled pushrods) and binding issues to see if the springs even have a chance of living with those monster rockers.....................

got a new tool working too..........using a spark plug pressurised air bung, this enables spring removal on a fully assembled engine......



i'll leave that one as NOS for now, because another one floating around has had the tips modified to more of a rockers' shape........ onya Shimmo:thumb



i'm using it to help find "bind" measurements.......




this numbers crunching is doing my head over at the moment..........so is the lack of progress, there are MARS bars riding on a completion date now:kiss





later i will use this to remove the inner spring for "run in" and of course to put them back afterwards




[ Edited on 28-2-07 by dumone ]

Daimo,

Where did ya get the "fuel pump breather" from?

ohhh come on Astro!....................others do stock em tho, seen em on Georges specials before........

Nuff said.

1 upper-cut to me!
🤪

still waiting for some 1.45 rockers to arrive to be able to finish the spring set up so i've had push on with other bits and pieces.......

flanging the exhaust........

the flanges i had needed opening up to be able to fit the 1 5/8........a holding jig was knocked up and it was back to the lathe to open four flanges up to tightly fit the flared side of the headers joins, and four more to match the tubes O.D to make it all possible......

some CV joint bolts were turned down on the head in order to clear the exhaust tubes.....




i'm after both the benefits of additional strength here........



and improved sealing here...........all ready to be tacked, removed and fully welded







[ Edited on 2-4-07 by dumone ]

ooorkay, welded up, time for clean up!




being a very tight fit on the slip joints to start with, the slightest blemish created by the mig (in the pipes) was going to need tidying up before the exhaust would even go back together!......more die grinding!🥲 the collector was going to need the most porting/streamlining,



but as usual, I can't help but do the works..........
........"at the head" flanges......




fiddle de deeeeeeeeee




all the joints and primary's are now clean as a whistle, anything for a couple of horsepower🥷




must get back to that collector that i was supposed to be doing, so i can install the bung for the air/fuel sensor.......maybe tomorrow😀

Hey Dumone
Thats a nice merge.
Could you take a pix of up its bum?
Id like to have a look at the merge on the inside from the outlet end.
Secondly, did you take into account the order the zorst pulses enter the merge?
Just interested.
L8tr
E

tassupervee wrote:Hey Dumone
Thats a nice merge.
Could you take a pix of up its bum?
Id like to have a look at the merge on the inside from the outlet end.
Secondly, did you take into account the order the zorst pulses enter the merge?
Just interested.
L8tr
E

The absolute "must do's for HP gains of a Formula Vee". Definate HP gains on any motor....

You obviously have set the primaries to a certain length to match cam/engine specs for best power too. Nice looking work there!!

ooooorkay then, the Zorst's bum:P

this is how it looked with a rough clean up......



.....i decided to weld it up and port it out again, if you reckon it still looks rough, well, after welding i was almost in tears-FUGLY!......




getting there.....




time for the air/fuel sensor........









DOH!!!!!!!, that just created more work.......just look at those flow suffocating bumps!🙄




anything is something after yet another break.......still waiting for those 1.45's..........6 weeks airmail from U.S❓
i think i've been ripped off for the first time👎

I love you work Daimo....but you gotta give me some details of that splitty up in the air! Is that Luke's maybe?.

I am looking forward to getting stuck into my turbo manifolds (exhaust and inlet) with the mig once the type IV goes in the oval....I got a new welding helmet for my birthday and haven't used it yet!

Keep up the good work mate!
Alan

[ Edited on 1-5-2007 by Dasdubber ]

.......oh that old bit of this, bit of that, ginormous engine bay'd thing......it's just background filler!.........

Tinwear fiddling.........


on other fronts, i have dug up my old engines tinware set and grabbed some watercooled kombi valve covers and bails ready for modifying.........why the h2o covers.....

.... well the theory that they would have been removed far less often due to the hydrualic lifters negating the need to do regular valve adjustments......... definately rang true after cleaning them up...... the gasket surface was perfectly scratch and dent free....

myth confimed




.....it takes a bit of cutting to be able to get those manifolds home..................holes/tubes on both sides of the rear tinware piece, will be vented via tubing down to the area of high air pressure/flow beneath the rear torsion bar housings..........this will help ensure there is enough air available in the engine bay for BOTH the carbs and fan with a closed decklid

exhaust and manifolds fitted up A.O.K........






........i had to check the angles of "'ol favourites" tappet cover drains. They look spot on to go round the exhaust and will soon be copied to provide the 3/4 inch drains directly back to the sump







.......they are also vented with a brass oil fitting at the front top corner (1/2 inch), to run back to the breather box, which was raided from the engine currently pushing my daily,along with some other good bits, last weekend.




the single port copper intake gaskets are good for sealing at the oil filler:thumb.........
of course the berg breather bolted up perfectly:P




the breather is baffled inside to separate the oil out of the air, returning via the filler as usual. the top vent is connected to the aircleaners to provide case vacumn as per standard, each of the lower ones are connected to the tappet covers and fuel pump block off respectively.

german tinwear GOOD, aftermarket BAD!.......

the repro "cool tins" under the cylinders sounded like a good idea......until i tried to fit up the rest!......they interfere with the standard bits.........i had to flatten out the dimples that normally scoop around the cylinder.




yeah it looks rusty and rough, as usual, this is just mocking up so mods can be done before paint...

same story with the rear tin that runs down to protect the push rod tubes...........yes you can actually use these with a berg exhaust:thumb........ever had a look at a "case" that has been run for a decent length of time without these tins??..............i have and they provide the last peice of the "jig" that holds ALL the other tinwear sturdy enough to not scrub back and fourth aginst the soft magnesium adjacent to the cylinder spiggots........i will also use silicon to stop the gouging:thumb




rear of the dog........again, crappy fitment is assured with aftermarket junk. i might even swap out to a late original shroud yet......




DOH!!!!!! i never realized just how close i was getting.......





..........just need some paint and polish really🙄.....sure😂




hang in there baby, not long........




fingers crossed for sure, one center stud sheered off, four loose (like almost dropping off!!) and one at 10ftpd, maybe we all need to cross fingers........(yes i have "addressed" those 6 center mains problems...well sort of)...........


ooo oo, just got a big box from the courier, have a look tomorrow for some real induction clobber that will make tose 48's look very old hat indeed!!!!!!!!!

[ Edited on 21-5-07 by dumone ]

Did your rockers turn up Daimo?

yes Dave, they did.......back in Pasadena U.S.A!!!!!!!!!!!!!

they got returned to sender for some reason:puke......trying again none the less.

mind you, the mail man did come through with some goodies for me.........

it wasn't my carb linkage tho..........






...i found it hard to have "words" with Mr Mailman about the rockers when he presented me with these babies....




complete with injectors, rails and T.P.S👍




...even came with 4 aircleaners




all that needs doing is to open the cylinder tin a bit more and they're butter🥷 linkage looks good to go with the T.B's................computer, wiring harness, decent fuel lines and pump needed

🤓

Unreal man
👍

That is one fine 1776cc 👍............I think you need to put a stroker crank in!.........................Surely Jeff has one floating around ???:duh

Very nice Daimo, you must be rich dude!

nah Dave, big credit card.........those T.B's were cheaper than a set of Kadrons anyways😏

Cool score!

I'm not usually jealous of VW motors, but that is TOTALLY HORN!!!

hurry up and finish it so we can see the dyno readout. 🤓



[ Edited on 24-5-07 by pete wood ]

yes yes Craig, tell me 'bout it!!!.....i've got my eye on a certain 78mm...........and there's another engine there with a custom 77.5mm to come in under 2 liters (with 90.5) so i can come and play with you guys🤘

apart from that,not much to say today...tins are good to go after doing another set of cylinder covers....... just got to get off my hiney and paint it all now






was wondering where those dellorto stacks were..😁




these beasts make me laugh my butt off every time😏


















😎

hot. oh so very hot.

nick

Oh? Oooohhhh.
Pass the Kleenex!

good things come in three's..........

A: i finally recieved my 1.45 rockers

B: "found" a haltech ECU

C: more importantly, got one more job done that i had been putting off

Valve cover drains

pucker up and drill some big holes in your sump. doing this feels soooo wrong🥲.......tap the suckers out.

the holes were located as high in the walls of the sump as possible......



3/4 inch fiitings protrude well into the sump to help prevent the oil running upwards during cornering and needed to be offset different on each side to allow for alignment to the heads




some pipe was bent up, ready for brazing (plz don't look too closely🙅). a holesaw made life easy on the covers




sumthin like this........ready for set up on the motor, then brazing




out of time again🙁

[ Edited on 5-6-07 by dumone ]

Keep plugging away Daimo - enjoying your progress as usual!

Um, don't shoot the messenger but I think you may have a problem with oil running up into the rocker area; drain-backs must be above 'high tide mark' in the sump

it's cool M8,when your sump is about to run dry, they are😂

seriously tho, it's nothing new Glenn, it's been done successfully before........

http://www.clubvw.org.au/Inch%20by%20Inch.htm


INCH BY INCH

Hellbug's Jeff Unwin takes us through what it took to squeeze a few extra seconds of performance out of his racing beetle



It had been two and a half years since we had turned a wheel in anger in the mighty little beetle and i was itching to get back into hillclimbing. The CAMS newsletter had arrived in the mail and there was an item on the upcoming Australian Hillclimb Championships at Grafton in six and a half weeks and not being one to procrastinate, the decision was made then and there to go for it! The only problem being that companion Jo Smith's car had sustained a huge prang at Bathurst back in 1990 and desperately needed some attention. On that occasion, the fan had exploded at 8000 rev's, taken out the accelerator cable tube and jammed the Dellorto's flat out as she was approaching The Dipper.

Well, what can i say, fate was really kind not to roll her over. (the car that is) so there was no body damage but three corners of the suspension were badly bent and the right hand front shock tower had put a 50mm deep dent into the inner guard.

The car had then been retired to a relative's farm at Binnaway, and suffered the indignity of sitting in a barn there and accumulating a solid layer of bird poo while it sat forlornly in the the farm shed. I took a quick trip to Binnaway one day and loaded the very bent bug onto a trailer and then took it home the next day- all without incident. I was very lucky to have three untiring helpers in the form of James McKinnon, Grant Camper and Shimo.

Previously we had raced the "Bug out of Hell" in the road registered class and later as a sports sedan. Times had changed however and with the introduction of the group 2E Silhouette Class i,e 60 series tyres, no 'glass guards and a maximum seven inch rim size for cars up to 3000cc.

This formula posed a couple of problems. Firstly our old gearing was too tall (the 3.88:1 diff, 3.4:1 1st, 2.21:1 2nd, 1.48:1 3rd and 1.125:1 top were nowhere near close enough) and secondly, we had no 60-series tyres because back in the '80s we used 50-series.
As it turned out we had bought and old drag race gearbox earlier in the year, so we had a few extra ratios to choose from (this included 4.375:1 ring and pinion and 3.8:1, 2.06:1, 1.58:1 and 1.21:1 gears). In the end we came up with a great little close ratio 'box using the 4.375:1 diff gears and 3.4:1, 2.21:1, 1.58:1 and 1.21:1 gear ratios which worked in really well with the 205-60X15 tyres.

There was a huge list of chores to complete before we headed to Grafton. This included stealing the front end out of the old race car, replacing wheel bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints and control arms, recondition the calipers and fit new metal pads. other tasks undertaken including replacing steering coupler and dampner, fitting a race seat, harness and half cage.

Next we rebuilt the entire rear end, bushes and breaks and then stripped down several gear boxes to salvage the required parts to make up one good unit.

The 1904cc motor was stripped and freshed up ready to be raced. We then went over to Eastcoast suspension for a 4 wheel allignment and then back home to fit the sway bars ( 20mm front and 22mm rear ).

We then packed up all the spares and headed off for Grafton ( a day before practice started Jamo and Grant drove up and met me there on Thursday morning )

Grafton's track had been lengthened, resurfaced and was alot tighter than what I could remember from 5 years earlier so I had the car scrutineered early to be one of the first cars out onto the track. Even though the track was a bit green ( leaves and branches littered the track and no rubber had yet been laid down ) , I was still quite happy with how the borrowed rubber was gripping. I was only about 3 seconds off the old record.

A quick check of the tyre pressures and off I went again, this time really getting the feel back again and throwing the car around like a Formula one car when suddenly the oil light came on. I turned it straight off and coasted down the return road. When we pulled the Oberg filter apart there were parts of a big end bearing straing at me. It appeared that we should have put the oil surge gates back in from our old Hellbug motor as now the sticky tyres were generating the same G-forces as the soft slicks I ran before.

There was a fair bit of dissappointment in the camp. In fact, Grant and Jamo were shattered. I ended up driving to Kempsey, taking a 1916cc motor out of a buggy and fitting up our Webers. But alas the off-road motor had an inappropriate cam and didnt really go. We managed a last-in-class finish and the distinction at being the only vehicle unable to spin the wheels off the start line. At this stage I must thank Mark and Luke Pell for their help with all our problems over that weekend. It was their motor that was so generously lent to me.

BACK TO THE OLD DRAWING BOARD

Not to be put off by such small hassles I had the motor rebuilt in 2 weeks ( this time with all the baffling in the sump ). And competed in the show and climb at Canberra winning the class, being 2nd outright and the fastest Group 2E bug. Now we were cooking and competed in 5 more 'climbs before Christmas managing class wins in each of. So the poor little motor was owed a bit of work by the time the years racing was complete.

Upon this assembly some very interesting observations were made: 1: The tunnel of the case had worn out allowing the centre main bearing to move and the crankshaft to flex. 2: Some evidence of oil starvation was still present in rod bearings #1 and #4 and: 3: The breather system had not been adequate because the 2.0-litre catch-tank was always filling with oil at the end of each days racing.

After a meeting with Shimmo and Peter Gonad, a complete revamp of the breathing and oil system commenced. This was a two-pronged attack to ensure that I had adequate breathing as well as adequate oil in the pick-up area (deep sump centre ).

I had purchased a late-model AS21 fuel injection case ( with the huge oil galleries throughout ) from Gene Berg in 1989 as a back-up for the 2213cc motor. This already had all the machining done, i.e. decked , bored for 90.5mm barrels, fully flowed, 8mm case stud nut lands spot-faced for the 15mm head nut conversion and die ground to fit a Washington Antishocker.

To increase the breathing of the internals, a 32mm hole was machined where the fuel pump hole should have been ( PI* case remember! ) I then fabricated a baffled breather tube and fitted a motorcycle air cleaner to stop dust getting in.

The rocket cover breathers were increased from 3/8" i.d to 3/4" i.d and a small baffle plate brazed over the breather outlet hole on the cover. This then necessitated enlarging the breather pipes on the Berg breather box-cum-oil-air filter to take the larger hose. Another motor cycle air filter was used on top of the Berg breather to stop any restriction in the system.

As far as oiling went this was somewhat more perplexing and a lot of testing and rethinking was needed before the final tolerances was initiated. A deep sump already had a quadrangle set-up with flapper valves so that the oil in the sump could only find its way from the four outer corners into the central pick-up area. The only thing that could possibly stuff this up would be if the oil wasnt returning to the sump fast enough.

As the oil pressure had always been adequate ( when the oil was there to suck up ) at 700kpa at 7000rpm with a 30mm Berg pump. When fitting a larger oil pump you not only get a higher pressure but also a much larger volume. therefore, if we cut down the volume being pumped then it will take longer to drain the 3.5 litres in the sump giving us a few extra seconds of supply before we run dry. A 26mm very plugged oil pump was fitted as a result of this logic.

How to get more oil into the deep sump?
Once again a two-pronged attack was required. A new oil pick up was bent with open flowing bands so that there was no added weld-on parts that picked up the oil in the sump. The hood that normally went over the oil strainer area was also not used so that the oil in the engine sump had a much larger area to fall through.

As I always ran the oil level at the top mark of the dip stick and already used windage push rod tubes, the premise was that a fair bit of oil was sitting in the rocker cover area ( because we could not stop the oil from running up the push rod tubes on very hard cornering ) A quick look at Col Matthews' porsche to see what "Big Brother" was using gave us the answer. Two 0.75in. oil returns were fabricated on the bottom of each rocker cover going straight down into the top of each of the sumps four corners. Voila!

As it turned out this system has worked perfectly with the main bearings and CAM bearings being only changed annually and the rod bearings at half yearly intervals.

Now that the engine reliability problems had been solved we went about a full revamp of the steering and suspension set ups. Its funny how the fickle finger of fate changes from the "you beaut" thumbs up of success to the heavenly - pointed middle finger of dispair in a matter of seconds.

friday nights trip to the first rund of the Hillclimb Championships at Bathurst was miserable weather, rain, sleet, fog - everything you'd expect going to Bathurst. When we got to the top of River Lett Hill doing about 80 clicks around an 80-rated corner while flat-towing the bug on an A-frame behind the ute, I felt the tail of the ute come out. After a big correction I thought I'd saved it only then to pirouette 360 degrees followed by a 180-degree turnaroundand finish up against an embankment. In the olympics that stunt would have gained me a series of 9.5's from the judges as it was all we achieved was some battered suspension and sheetmetal.

The left-hand front wheel from Joe's carhad come around and hit the left-hand rear wheel of the ute. I had to disconnect the buckled A-frame and flat tow the Beetle into Bathurst with a wire sling. By ten the next morning we had a wheel alignment done, tyres changed over to some non-buckled wheels and a trip to the panel beater to have the bumper and damaged guard knocked out so that I could race.

Meanwhile, the right-hand rear trailing arm was still bent with 2.5 degrees positive camber instead of 1.5 negative, but we still managed to take the class win and set a new record on the day.

This little last adventure was probably the main turning point that helped me change the handling set-up of the car forever. As the beam was bent a tad I did the first of our camber restorations on the top arms and dialled in a two-degree negative per side and the car loved it.

I then got to thinking, "How much negative camber can a Beetle take before it gets totally out of hand?"

They say nothing improves the breed like racing and after one full year of Hillclimbing I now have all the formulas for setting up and making a car handle straight out of the box. By "handle" I mean being able to take on just about any street car on the road today and wave goodbye to them when you come to corners. We atarted off the year 35th outright at Bathurst and peaked at 10th outright at Huntley in 1993 and to say the team is having a ball is an understatement.

Once the handling and braking has been taken care of you can then concentrate on more engine development. The motor now sports 44 x 37.5 Berg race heads and extensively modified ( by Henry Spicak ) 48mm Webers. The big change for 1994 had beenthe fitting of a GB 315 ( FK87 ) camshaft as opposed to the old GB311 ( K10 ) on the 112 lobe centres which were set-up retarded.

This one change took .6-second off our eighth mile drag racing times ( 8.9 to 8.3- sec ) and added 9km/h to the terminal speed.

This yarn is being written just before Parkes Hillclimb championship round, so the motor is once again apart but more for a freshen up and re cam to a GB 316 ( FK 89 ).

All these changes have made the Bridgestone 610s unable to cope so a change to gumball Dunlop 78Js should help us to stick. And it will keep on going like this, trying to screw that extra little bit out of the Bug. Because one day it would be nice to go to South Australia to run the class at the Australian Hillclimb Championships and then blow all those twin cam Datsuns away.

We work on the theory that the harder you work the luckier you get.

yeah, I remember that from Jeff's car a while back, but Jeff's car appeared fumy. Could this have possibly been due to surge of oil UP the drain-back pipes and leaking out the rocker gaskets?

Is there any way you could fit some sort of flapper/one-way valve in the tubes?


[ Edited on 7-6-2007 by VWCOOL ]

Quote Glen T..............And Jeff's car always was 'fumy'...
end Quote


WTF thats suppose to mean Glen ?

I think your fuming at the mouth again.

[ Edited on 7-6-2007 by johny rotten ]

1) top job
2) what sort of compressor do you have that lets you port for such long periods?
3) any advice on carbide bits after your 100's of hours?

hope it goes like stink

Stephen

thanx.

to answer your questions.......

a bloody great big 3 phase compressor at 120psi. i was a bit worried today when it didn't need to "top up" for 1/2 an hour, thought it was broken🙄....




carbide burrs.....i like the ones with rounded tips as they don't leave big edges. you can take a lot of material out with flapper wheels which are relatively easy going. turn your rotary grinder down so it runs slowly at full throttle.ear muffs, safety glasses and lots of clothing.

don't try and use a bit that makes a particular job hard/risky, if you can, stop and swap it for a more suitable one from your selection 😏..........




it should run strong.........if it doesn't...........it's nothing EFI, turbo and intercooling won't fix😎

[ Edited on 18-6-07 by dumone ]

VWCOOL

i hear what your saying. looked at non return valves, nothing off the shelf that i found for it. many schemes have been nutted about

the fittings in the sump protrude well into it so oil doesn't flow up the walls and into them. the return side of fittings are "ported" to a knife edge. as are the openings in the rocker covers

i'm finding the starvation (oil light on) is happening as i come out of the corners and approach full revs for the first time, not in the middle of the corner (maybe this relates to my driving style). i'm using windage pushrod tubes allready, so the thoughts are that the oil is running up to the rocker area via the pushrod tubes despite. as i reach full engine noise after/in the corners the LAST REMAING oil in the sump gets pumped away..........because the oil still gathered up in the rocker covers has not got a direct/quick enough return to the oil pick up area.......

so if we can get ANY more oil back to the sump before it goes dry, it may just be enough to keep pressure for that second or two until the cornering subsides and oil is again gathering at the pick up tube area.

i might baffle the sump or lines yet.....maybe just borrow Jeffs🤘

yes it's a hard one to get round in ya brain.

it's done now....we will see.....






the 1/2 inch oil fitting was drilled out as large as possible to help breathing too










clearance is good......not too much.not too 'lil:thumb




theres not much choice for where the returns go....



getting around the exhaust and tin wear would be difficult





SPAGHETTI👍




it's all tucked up above sump level tho.......








[ Edited on 18-6-07 by dumone ]

looks the goods man! question - will the piping between the tappet covers and the sump require fastening with s/s clamps to the fittings? is it under much pressure?

nick

yes there will be hose clamps at both ends.

there is no pressure at all, simply 3/4 inch gravity fed return lines. an alternative route for returning oil aside from the pushrod tubes.

yep, I reckon he'll have clamps! :thumb

Damo, not that it matters much to your engine, but maybe an engine like this could use less oil pump? Seems to work for the Iron Lion V8 Holden fellers who suck thier sumps dry at the drags...?

26mm in use.....

more pressure with 30mm also means more volume.......

less volume out means more in sump for longer......

pressure from "blueprinted" 26mm(housing coated to close clearences, o'ringed and galleries ported) will be more than adequate here.

i hate that 'lil green light on the dash, i'm trying very hard to not see it🤓

[ Edited on 18-6-07 by dumone ]

Muffler mike in the USA did some video testing (on his site) to show that the crank slings a lot of oil up the pushrod tubes on the left side of the engine.

http://www.mufflermike.com/

Scroll down to 1-18-2007

He also found that if the drains were in the ENGINE CASE on that side, that they added to the problem.
So by putting them in the sump as Daimo has, is actually better in this instance than being at or above 'high tide'.

Mike ended up putting his drain around the engine and into the other side of the engine,
and it seems to have worked.

This is of course a straight line racer, so a car that makes corners will most likely need help on both sides as Daimo has done.

I have a 26mm pump on my engine and only with the larger journals and extra oil clearance of the "blower" bottom end(70mm main bearings and 56mm rod journals)
did I consider a 30mm pump.
In the end I went up to a heavier oil grade and it is now OK.

On the back-up engine with 60mm mains I use GTX3 and it has excellent oil pressure and
never lacks sump volume.

Yanks use a small scavenge pump(autocraft) on the left cover to keep the sump volume in check....semi-auto pump would work well if I did not have a mechanical fuel pump to drive.

http://media.putfile.com/5500rpm

Here is the test video

dumone wrote:less volume out means more in sump for longer......
i hate that 'lil green light on the dash, i'm trying very hard to not see it🤓

[ Edited on 18-6-07 by dumone ]

That's what I was getting at.. and the little light simply needs its wire cut!

dangerous wrote:http://media.putfile.com/5500rpm

Here is the test video

good one Dave, it takes a while to drain away doesn't it.....

a couple more bits to be done to the valve covers.

spent the best part of my day setting up some tabs to hold the gaskets from "sucking in"......and some baffle plates to go over the breather holes.....





braised them into position ........




cleaned it all up.....















job done

i also made a little video in the parts washer of just how much flow those drains can handle.......kinda ties in with what mufflermikes vid linked above showed us🤓





[ Edited on 25-6-07 by dumone ]

cool vid! well done

nick

dellorto rebuild........

i had a bright idea after a couple of 'ol favourites to rebuild my 48's........

first step was to get all the bits organised....




yes that is the kitchen table, ready to be put to good use😎




here goes the tear down........

out with the main jet stack.....




out with the idle jet holder.....




behind the fuel inlet union is a small filter screen. i'm running a center T pressure regulator, so i only have one pipe fitting on both sides.



removed accelerator pump push rod.....



accelerator pump diaphram and spring, YUCKY!!!(storage issues)




mixture screw/spring/washer and oring, need to dig a bit to get them all out.




the air by-pass screws are used to get final sync between ports. they allow air to bypass the butterfly plate for very fine tuning. often siezed up🙅.....you can see all the progression well ports now the cover screw has been removed.






progression ports/mixture screw and bypass from inside. you can see where the butterfly opens gradually pass the ports.




we're aiming to get in there and change the main venturies/chokes........




auxillary venturi and accelerator jet need to come out of the way......



pump jet has a flat side to ensure installation with the hole towards the engine........




out with the five top cover screws.......




...giving access to the float and bowl....




i'm using bergs ball type fuel inlet valve (needle and seat).the float arm had to be bent out of the way to install.




compared to dellorto needle. a tad more flow with the berg:thumb




and full flow is achieved with very small float travel. the large ball actually pushes a much smaller one into it's "bowl" above.........positively stopping flow when closed.....




the float assembly needs removing to replace the top cover gasket.......




why so much concern over a special needle and seat????.....well the dellorto fuel bowl is not overly big, achieving maximum incoming fuel (without big pressures!!) will allow wide open throttle for extended periods before running the bowl dry🤪

at the bottom of the the bowl is the accelerator pump valve........




the pump valves small galleries are a good place to start looking for dirt when your dells are running up tha' shite🤘




with the carb top off, access to the accelrator pump weight and ball is gained.......these cut off the gallery that runs up from the pump diaphram to the jet






undo the lock nut and locating screw for the auxillery venturi.........




and out they pop.......the have a oring seal and must be replaced with the angled side running down for proper operation....




loosen the main vents' locating grub and out they go.....



WHAT HAVE I DONE........arghhhhhHH🤪




[ Edited on 10-7-07 by dumone ]

no it's cool, that's why i'm doing one at a time..i can always reference back to the untouched one if things go really bad. anyways all the jets and screws only fit one position and one way, toooo easy:kiss

different size chokes will provide different vacumn signals through the secondary venturi.and advance the fuel at different rates verse rpm. smaller chokes work well down low, with top end sacrifice, biggens will flood down low in the rpm, only to come on later....i'm going for the 36mm in the middle which should be good up to 6700rpm🥷




easy to see how they change flow characteristics thru there.........smaller on the right🤖




changing jets is easy,,,once you locate some. i've gone with a 50 accelerator pump jet......spring loaded into it's holder




65 idles.......everythings been scrubbed and blown now and i'm replacing orings as i go.




air correctors, emulsion tubes and jets are interchangeable with dells. 190 airs, and 155 main jets




fast forward in a productive direction..........




rubber top gasket installed and float level set....




new accel pump diaphrams and springs loaded up.......




the ledgend goes that a 3 thou gap is good enough for start up.....done on both carbs it should provide reasonable sync for inital start up.........all mixture screws were wound in (gentle!) and backed out 2 1/2 turns for a starting point.




ready to go again. no time for EFI if i'm going to Warrick, the race has already started...........😉





[ Edited on 10-7-07 by dumone ]

Everything in this thread is first-class, top-notch, high-quality.

BUT VB!!

Come on Damo, where's the real beer?

oh dear Astro.........VB tastes like beer, the others like carbonated lollie water:duh

back to the dells

repeat process as required........




more custom gaskets ported to an exact match







filters oiled up and cleaner tops tapped for 1/2 inch fittings, providing vacumn via breather box for the crankcase and tappet covers




job done😎

and hopefully you slipped that stroker crank in when we weren't watching 😉 ......hehehehe

Hi Daimo,
can you list what jetting you will start with ,
and 'why',
to go with the 36mm venturis.
What Idle jet and accell pump squirter also.
Thanks,
DB.

o.k......so the decision on venturi size was made with the following graph. i'm looking at running up to 6000rpm, maybe some more.the usual conversations with anyone who would sit still long enough to listen to my babbling, backed up the idea for this size (as well as jet sizes). i would have liked to help tame my lead foot, by running the 35mm and rich jetting for starters, but with Warrick coming quickly, went with what i thought would be closer to my ideal set up as far as drivability versus performance



from there the "formula" says to multiply vent size X 4 (for vent sizes up to 36mm)to get a main jet size.

after 36mm venturis, multiple by 4.2........:duh

so that left me going for 4.2 X 36mm and so 1.51 mains. i moved up to 155's to start a bit richer.

i've also gone for 190 airs in an attempt to slow the fuel onslaught expected from 48's once they get open wide, and onto the main circuit. again thoughts of my small capacity prevailed over what would be the more "normal" 180 air correctors


idles were a chuck up, between whats recommended for the smaller dells (and my small capacity) and the phatty's normally used in 45's and 48's...........so the 65 idles i went with were in the middle of what i found people to be using/reccomending (55's to 70's).


i knocked the pump jet back to a 50........it was previosly 60, and stomping on the throttle with the 2180 seemed to flood it...........

that's about it, i won't be afraid to mix them up once it's running, with such a wide stash of all the changeables,it should be fun. i'm hoping the air/fuel sensor (3 wire heated type) and guage will help the process along, i'm quite looking forward to it after seeing just how much difference even a small jet change can make after spending some time playing with 'lil sissy's 36ers lately....

mind you, a chat to Ben about haltech's latest and how they tuned Heaths car with the exhaust sensor and data logging alone has me amped for fast tracking injection🥷

Nice info there Daimo.

PS I'm hearing ya re. the efi!

awesome build! Which i was as handy..
do you have any more info on the throttle bodies - like make, where ya got them.
I'm tossing up whether to go for carbs or make the jump to FI..

ooorkay, with the carbs sorted at home whilst baby sitting during the holidays, it's time to get serious again.......

1.45 rockers:duh

the arms were all free with side play present, but bolting them straight up, it was obvious there was at least one arm running too tight......




cleaned up and checked out, setting the side plays was easy with a combination of shimms and sanding the thrust area of blocks and arms





this got the arms centered over the lash caps/valve ends, with the correct amount of play so when bolted up (as above), they all "flopped" down via gravity alone, BUT with minimal side play.......




however, the starting point of the arm is too high on the valves......



and only runs higher with more lift.......




this was common on all valves, both sides of the motor. it looked like being a problem with the 1.54 rockers i had a few pages back too, but didn't need to be sorted then as the lift amount was too great for my set up.......BUT now it does need sorting!:o

blued up the caps to make sure i wasn't imagining it



DAMN! too high!........and won't help at all with the longevity of the valve guides because running like that will add unwanted side loads......

anyways..........a full check of all the lifts reveals 13mm accross the board..so they really are 1.45's this time around...........:thumb




substituting another set of rockers made no difference, the problem is steming from the heads and lack of valve stem length

unfortunately (timewise) the heads need to come off to mill the rocker pedastals down so to have the rocker arms at more angle and as such, their "swipe" operating area moved closer to the center of the valve ends..........

😠



good chance to check i had the pistons in the right direction. one of the best reasons for loads of pictures, to me , has been the ability to double check things that become unaccessable during the build. i have peerred through the spark plug holes at these, after some sleepless nights before😊







[ Edited on 31-7-07 by dumone ]

how do you work out how much to take off?

in an attempt to keep moving forward, AND motivated🤪 the opportunity to takle the tinwear clean up, whilst the engine is again apart, was taken up.

finished the dimple on the tin for the oil return fitting...




don't wtch this space for radical colours or chrome. if something can be painted black, i will most often do just that...........the manifolds and air cleaner tops have already had a narrow escape🤘

bar at front is engine support/hop/traction set up




one very welded fan......




spotted some heads around the traps with fins missing, and tales of exploding fans jamming throttles wide open influenced the decision to grab one of these😎




back to bare metal for you lot!




porting the exhaust was finished too, off to the ceramic coaters




[ Edited on 31-7-07 by dumone ]

oh........

Cram, no prizes for guessing what brand T.B's or where they come from.........you should get both answers in one go🙄 they are 52mm butterflies

koolkarmakombi....it will just be a small amount at a time, on one head, we are thinking 1-2mm should do the trick............at the end of the day,rocker stand shimms can be used to get some height back anyways, although i'd rather not need em. the lift on both sides of the motor was within 0.085mm accross the lot (indicating evenness), so the same amount will be taken from the second head once the first checks the problem

dumone wrote:oh........

Cram, no prizes for guessing what brand T.B's or where they come from.........you should get both answers in one go🙄 they are 52mm butterflies

hang on.. doh. I think I worked it out.
Didn't realise he had them...top to bottom Berg!
nice!

where did the fan come from?
Thanks
T54

I'm guessing.....Bergs.

My name is Dumone, I am a Berg addict...

man thats awesome ,needs the turbo though...lol , when your ready damo

:blush.............

with sandblasting, strip discs and wire wheels (OUCH!) it's all back to metal........i can't say this was at all fun 🤪

.......but a necessary evil to avoid using after market tins.

the quick option being long gone, i'll etch prime it all before, smoothing and paint.........never again🙅




this might help understand prefrences for german tin. some of the air deflectors tabs were broken off in the repro fan housing, although not completely free. they're not going anywhere now Mr MIG has paid a visit👍

..also set a "pad" in place for the carb linkage, will tap a thread in there for the third mounting bolt.




[ Edited on 6-8-07 by dumone ]

I've stripped quite a few bits of tinwear in my time - I know how much of a shitty job it is mate! Messy too.

Have you decided to go two pack for the tins or another method? I'd be happy to do it for you for no cost to repay the favours you've done for me.....wish I lived closer and warwick was further away! The offer is there if you need it anyway.

Alan

now that is an offer us mere mortals jump at!!!

alas, you have enough to do i think, so i'll get there.

thanx heaps for putting it out there

Dave kicked butt on that tranny of yours sooner than i thought so those bits will be on the way tomorrow Allan

i still reckon i should just truck this sucker up and slot it in the back of your oval for the weekend😏..........i'm heading to do a bit more now, after daily grind commitments are filled, i'm effectively down to 60 hours till Warrick🥲

[ Edited on 6-8-07 by dumone ]

Crap! Less typing....more working!!

I have lots of painting to do between now and end of Aug so trust me, if you can get them up here, I'm happy to do it. You've done the hard part (stripping and cleaning!). No probs if not though, I won't be offended.

thanx Allan......

well,

the primer has been layed, i'm going the 2 pac. the rest of the stuff is in already hanging in the booth......




whilst waiting for paint to dry, i polished the alternator and backing plate




high temperature paint on the pushrod tubes (i'm glad i got the second chance to do this while the heads were off)




"You're home early , darling!!!" 🤘.....

"Yeah, have you got the oven on allready?.....What are you cooking?" 😘.......

".............Ummmmm.......stuff........" 🤘......

......busted..........😬

:blah




:blah




🥷....2 pac black..........




:blah




:blah




..🥷....ceramic coated inside and out......thanx to Wayne Penrose for the quick turnaround time:thumb




:blah:blah:blah

Very shmick mate! well done

SALUBRIOUS!

So Damo are we going to see the finished product at Warwick ?? oh and tell the missus that they help clean the oven and it'll all be good HEHEHE

A Westwood wrote:So Damo are we going to see the finished product at Warwick ?? oh and tell the missus that they help clean the oven and it'll all be good HEHEHE

i hope to be at Warrick yes. that would be two years since i really started the build in earnest.... long enough🤪!

...i tried your excuse, but copped a slap up the side of the head......didn't wash i guess

should be interesting to see her run 🙂 cheers for Jeff's contact details, you're right he likes a chat.


Cheers Stephen

Good luck on the engine build Daimo.
Berg bits are something else! All looks shit hot!!!


Matt

c'mon daimo! put the freakin thing in and drive like you stole it!!! the suspense it killing me. 🙁

yes, well Pete...............oh nevermind

Jeff and i have had this running joke going for a while now, that when i finally got this motor assembled, the creek would go over with me on one side and the engine on the other............hmmmmmmmm

it's been very wet, but good for a laugh, as when i arrive i am greeted by a shower of lobbed rocks in the freezing water:kiss




managed to get a few things sealed up, filler/breather, sumps good to go. unfortunately they're not my good heads on there




basically i've been waiting for the heads again, we found some lash caps that were over 1mm thicker over the end of the valve. this would be enough to correct the geometry problems without milling the pedastals:thumb

with the heads off, i may as well take the inner spring out in readiness for "break in". much easier in the bench spring compressor, it's one tough mother. (to load the 650 pounds of chevy springs for the race motor)




my mate wandered past saying i was being a pussy loading the keepers in, "just let it go, they will grab"

that worked well.......




.........well, right up to the last spring.........ping, ting, "SHIT!!", patang, doink........silence.

"landed over there didn't it?"........

"yep, just over there........"




couldn't find it..........there is a new set in stock tho🤖

but different batches see different heights in the retainers, check out the one on the left, completely different...........

back to the corner with magnet and torch!!!!!! found the single flying keeper, close to two hours later🤪






i'm an inqusitive little bugger............

originally, the heads were set up for 1.4 rockers.

we now know,having done a not so dry build, that accurately measuring lift at the valve is 13.00mm accross ALL the valves.

between the guide and retainer i will need 3mm over lift if i am to set the spring heights using the following method......




i want to have the spring with 1.5mm travel left in it, after the cam lifts it to the 13mm. this will give me close to 300pounds of spring pressure over the nose of the cam, preventing the lifters from getting flung off the nose and consequently jarring everything when they return to tracking the cam profile correctly. as D.B says "valve control reigns supreme"...........spring pressure is how to get it

using the shimms under the spring's butt, this can be done!!........i will need the spring to reach bind at 14.5mm total travel🤪




using my big phat angled plate under the drill press, i can bottom the springs out and see if i have the needed travel😎





works a treat!!..........but unfortunately the retainers bottom before the 14.5mm, so i STILL CAN"T TELL!!! where the springs are at.😠

soooooooo the heads need a good scrub after all this messing about anyways, i might just shave some more off the valve guides before the scrub and really do my brain in trying to get this stuff right🤘






times up again.............still can't walk on water either😉




[ Edited on 31-8-07 by dumone ]

dumone wrote:

"Smart thinking 99"

dumone wrote:

[ Edited on 25-8-07 by dumone ]

Is that how you wash the heads? :blush

hey D.B, how much variance in "from bind" measurments is acceptable?

.......feeling for you not being able to race today🙅.....

If you are confident it IS bind and not retainer to guide interference,
less than one .015" shim.

yes, of course Dave.........silly question hey.

oooorkay, so i might relax those springs a little more, out to 2mm over lift. i will need 15.5mm from retainer to guide end to use my drill press checking method.......

i've been told as little as 1mm over lift (retainer on guide!) is safe for running the motor, don't have much idea how to measure the spring heights other than what i've shown above tho..........



not the 15.5mm i need, but that's ok, we have the technology to address that problem👍

another one of those berg tools..........🥷




one end will cut the end of the guide down, the other will cut the guide boss for the inner spring of the duals!!:thumb.........rather than simply turn the whole assembly round in the drill press, the bit holding part is reversed on the shaft, this will keep one end of the pilot shaft without the burring of the press jaws and as such be the clean end that is always inserted into your good valve guides:blah..........the heads need to be set under the drill press on an angled plate like the one in yesterdays post, to use this tool

it happened to be set up for the boss cutting, sooooo i had a play on the test head🙄...........this cut would run right down to the spring seat for the inner springs (my heads have allready been done)




it's the guide itself i need to face down some more........




it's actually a very simple operation. the tool can also cut a cam gear for a three bolt arrangement




anyways, back to the job at hand........

i shaved the guides on my heads another 1.2mm, giving me 16mm (3mm above lift) travel between the retainer and guide end. this is plenty for running the motor, but also enough so i can bottom the springs and get a clean go at setting the 2mm from bind........

job done.......:thumb




just a couple of things i didn't cover here before.........

the cro molly retainer is an "interference" fit in both springs. it really needs some pressure to pop it into the inner spring especially..............this helps stop harmonics during operation by not allowing the spring to float around the center line..........the other end is captivated by the spring seatcastings (to an extent on the outer)

the two springs are also an interference set (touch/rub each other) the inner not only adds pressure, but as importantly has the job of keeping the outer spring from going into the harmonics horrors too (death wobbles🙄)

you could pick this assembly up, as is, with either the outer spring or retainer only, and no parts would separate.
.........interference fits..........spring control!




a quick look at the 4 angled valve seat job after cleaning.......🤘




anyways, all that explained😵❓, i've decided to put both springs back before working the binds out.......it's plain to see how different readings occur when measuring one spring without the other..........i'll be using both for checking thanx.........




i had a ball today, and have two extra sessions (3.5 hours) to play this week too...............bring it on!

[ Edited on 27-8-07 by dumone ]

NO, that is not a silly question!
Silly is a dude that has too much pride to ask.
I ask questions all the time, some are stupid, but answers always come!!

greetings from the funny farm............my head aches😵‍💫

pretty much decided first point of call was (like it or not🙅) to get some new actual lift numbers with the new lash caps and pushrod length...........there was no point trying to set spring binds with lift numbers that had became out dated..................... and that they were!. lift at the valve had increased by 0.15mm.

new caps are actually the berg ones designed for titanium valves........much higher!



the caps improved the geometry as expected..........rocker "swipe" is lower on the cap center....PHEWWwww🤪




working out pushrod length was much simpler this time roun.................🤘





of course, they were never going to be the same length as i had already made. having already assembled my set, they had to be parted under the ball tip this time. i had to lathe this from the previously uncut end as i had taken the maximum length out of the other already........all 1.5mm:blah




dual springs and pushrods back in and measuring lift at the valve again....







heads on..............heads off

springs on .............springs off

lash caps on...........caps off

springs in............. springs out

shimms in.............shimms out

springs in.............springs out

yes Mr Miaggi san.............🥲

it took a few hours, but my measurements/checks are now consistant and coming quickly. i know what clearences i need and how to do them...............

....... but for now i'm off to the chiropractor, i can barely walk at the mo, yet will HAVE TO! work until September 10th, Warrick feels like..........oh nevermind..:duh











[ Edited on 30-8-07 by dumone ]

Keep your chin up Daimo,
You can do it!

Doing things the right way is very satisfying when it is all said and done.
Good to see someone taking the time.

What is awesome is I have bought the berg articles and read the theory behind what you are doing. Loving all the pics, keep them coming.

Berg articles are a dis-jointed read though.

Good job now is definately worth it later. Check recheck assemble check reassemble recheck arrgggg!!! Fantastic fun. Keep up the goog work mate. :thumb

I am impressed with how you are taking so many photos...... have you got a bracket fastened to your head to hold the camera and when you blink you take a photo.....

.... really good reading, photos and attention to detail.... don't loose sight of what you are achieving... a damn good motor

back again.........

thanx everyone......

gland nut was finally swapped from the standard one there for mock up, to my good forged one.

here is the standard one next to the berg modified one and big washer...mines the next step up being forged longer so the head does not need cutting to accomodate the thickness of the washer.......



standard.......



berg forged cro-molly......pulls the flywheel right over the dowels:thumb. naturally the bearing is greased and the nut loctited at 250ft/pds!




sooooooooo with that done, its time to build a motor.:duh

not sure if others do this, but my offroading background has led to making this habit. wiring the cool tins to the cylinders to save them unclipping from the headstuds, falling and cutting thru the pushrod tubes.




heads sorted and installed with single (outer) valve springs, torqued to 20ft/pd........




rockers and pushrods are finally a simple "install and that's it" deal.........chucked 'em in there 18ft/pd




tappet covers have had more braisng done after paint, but the gaskets are now behind all those tabs and good to go..throw em on🤖





a few screws and some loctite here and there for the tins.........i will silicon ALL the gaps later........pulley is back at 110ft/pds🤪 with loctite...........




copper gaskets and coated nuts for the exhaust🤘




exhaust snuggly buggly 🥷......





[ Edited on 15-9-07 by dumone ]

the exhaust nuts you had copper coated also? is it the heat or condensation that always seems to rust up these nuts? is stainless as good an option?

nick

heat........coppers won't sieze, break/pull studs or loosen

just don't ask where they came from, my knuckles are already sore enough😂

Looking good Damo so is it going to be at Warwick ??

Nick DO NOT USE Stainless Steel as they will seize onto your studs even if you use cooper coat or never seize

forgot to mention that the motor in my beetle went KAPUT, sooooo it's become essential to get this motor running. Warrick????............i'm gonna give it a nudge,i'm down to just a few days/hours to play with, we will see in the next seven days.

gearbox mounts need attention and the bellhousing needs clearing for the 12 volt flywheel, mount and plumb the holley fuel pump, oil filter, thermostsat and cooler. ignition and guages are already set up. time time time

fan housing went on O.K





add some 48's..........

Great read !!!...talk about patience ..sure it will pay off!!!

Hi

Very interesting.

Regarding stainless steel nuts. I used 8 & 10 mm Glenloc stainless lock nuts on my wasser boxer 1302 on the NA headers and later on the turbo system with no problems. Some of the nuts were nearly 20 years old and still looked as good as the day I bought them.

Steve

hi Steve ...your beetle is one of my favourites, eva, world wide..........as is Jurgo's, Leighs and of course Jeffs, your cars have been an inspiration for me any many others i'm sure

ooorkay, not too much today........... Raleigh raceway now hold open drift days for all comers, so i went to check that out🙅.......think it's time to put a bigger clutch in the HELLvWRX and have some fun after this saga is finished.

a familiar sight at the moment (hi Allan and D.B:P) motor is out.......




looks like the bell housing is already half way clearenced. with end play measurable in centimeters, no prizes for guessing what failed on the good 'ol 1640.....

Hi

Thanks for the kind words. Your cars pretty cool as well, its going to be a monster when you get this thing in there. I saw you at Macksville in a servo when we were on our way home from Sawtell, you drive it no matter what the weather is like.

Raleighs a cool track, any car would fun fun around there but the HellVWRX would be awesome, maybe a drift session next Valla?

Steve

yeah Steve, it's a daily, for sure.......

the grand plan for today was to shift the motor accross the creek and home. yet another head on crash blocking our wonderful pacific highway put an end to that.......how many have to R.I.P before these upgrades actually happen?😬🙁

so a few of the lttle jobs wre done once and for all.

pressure sender locked in.....fan belt on




temp sender set in the type 3 block off. unwrapped the temp dip stick ready for wiring🙄




played with all the adjustabilities of the linkage to get the carbs in sync and sorted breather lines to cleaner tops.......




another breather line sorted.




it's hard not to take piccies when there's a stinger strapped on:blush

Hey Damo bet you cant wait! Looks great.
Cam break-in in car or on the bench?

That is unbelievable work....looks wonderful. Congrats on your work so far and good luck when it gets bolted in the car.

matberry wrote:Hey Damo bet you cant wait! Looks great.
Cam break-in in car or on the bench?

thanx Matt, & Borris,

yes in car, two 20min runs should do it, then in with the inner springs, probably then throw the bags in and head for Warrick🙅

Damo u2u sent

Hey damo, a bit O/T but I was stuck in traffic about 100m behind that head-on at 9-ish this morning, heading south from Coffs. I got around the road block by following a local back through Bellingen. Was it a bad one?

yes Glenn, that'd be the one...........didn't catch any details. definately the worst stretch of highway here between Port and Grafton. regular fatalities, i've lost family and friends, many others have too.........sad.

on a lighter note, the tinkering has come to an end........i think

won't go far without a clutch tho.......solid center street disc




now this is N.O.S!, will probably make it to 20 years before use, the way i'm going:kiss




lined up with one of the factory's most indestructable parts........input shaft




torqued up to 28ft/pds in criss-cross pattern. red tabs hold it open during instalation. i must remember to cut them off🤘




oil cooler "exhaust" sealed up well:thumb








vrooom, vvvroooom!!!!











a mid engined VW powered brumby??....check out "Jeffs 15km driveway"😎............of course he is now proudly claiming first run, first sidways, first to go too fast with this engine strapped behind them🤘. even first scare as well:o




now no one can deny THAT IS closer!!




i think there is only a closer look at the ignition and fuel delivery left for this thread now...........getting excitied!



[ Edited on 18-9-07 by dumone ]

This is more exciting than xmas 😀

Definitely closer Daimo! I can almost feel that sucker sliding into place (visualising it anyway)!

You're much closer than me so think yourself lucky! 🙄

Awesome Daimo,
I've been looking forward to this for ages!
Excellent work!

yes, exciting, try to imagine how i feel😎.....

never as simple as bolting it in, there is lots to do first.

Preping the car!

i'm still not blessed with excess time, so it's midnight finishes and 5 a.m starts around work. i've been doing the fuel pump and lines at night and being kind to the neighbours (who will despise my new motor soon enough anyway), this is during the day.

first stop is to clearence the 6v bell housing..........

an old short block with 12 volt flywheel is real handy.

sneaking it in as i turn by hand, those sharp flywheel teeth make short work of the soft magnesium/alloy tranny.........




it actually cuts to a fairly nice finish.......




a look around the points that need to be clearanced......

.......these shots were taken a few mm before the engine/gearbox went fully flush, so a little more came out than whats shown. same points, just a 'lil deeper.........













under the starter bush, is a place to keep a regular check on!!!!!





after marking, i took a fraction more off with a carbide burr, then came back through with the flapper to take out any stress edges..........




another job done!!




gotta change those old mounts out and push in a 12v starter/ 6v box adapter bush yet.

got Sunday, Monday all to myself, it's sink or swim time.🤪

now put the motor in................dump the clutch............and break a diff !!!

today..............

pretty sure the old mounts were stuffed..........back to basics with heavy duty standard style ones




a quick degrease and pressure wash, then pulled the box backwards after removing all the mounts and big frame horn bolts and mount sadle. cardboard on frame horns to protect axle boots




shoved back in again with new mounts





berg style front mount has been hanging there for years



had to flatten out the "bolt jams" on the box with the die grinder for the anti shocker to sit correctly..........




12v starter and adapter bush on the left, 6v on the right. note the different shaft diameters




new thrust bearing with heavy duty pins and starter 12 volt starter/adapter bush set up fine




some mad man installing new engine bay seals



closer........



"all butts and elbows".......front of exhaust, carbs, linkage and breather box need to be stripped to get that sucker in........




pregnant ones get the easy jobs...........the missus was the jack boss..........thanx doll:kiss



CLOSER!





re-commence build with the exhaust😍




the oberg oil filter found a home





time for bed:o






[ Edited on 24-9-07 by dumone ]

WHOO HOO!

I'm getting excited for you dude...

Damn I am jealous! Luckily you have further to travel to warwick than me so that at least gives me a few extra hours of work come the end of the week to catch up to ya! 😁

ignition.........

hellbug electronic ignition in a 009 dizzy........10 years young. chewed drive cog sits beside having already swapped it out late last night.it was chewed due to the previous motors massive crank play . new oring installed of course




rev limitng rotor button........




these are available with different limits...........the spring size varies according to what rev limit and effectively hold till the cenrtrifical force causes it to cut the sparks:thumb




8.5mm leads with proper weather proof boots and tinwear seal rings




all this is fed a tried and proven setup behind the back seat.......




all wired up........




fuel lines.....

under the front is fitted and plumbed. fuel star catalyst/upper cylinder lubricant tube lasts for 200 thou km's!!! (thanx V.V.D.S). holley red pump and loads of cool insulated brackets from the local 4WD centre




fuel pressure regulator plumbed up and ignition leads sorted..........




time to prime up the oil ready for break in. rockers, pushrods and spark plugs removed at this stage.




i had already discovered the phat boy muffler would need some work to fit.............but putting the car on the ground for the first time with the new motor, some alarm bells suddenly rang loud and clear. can you say LOW!!🙁





that may be the end of my aspirations to get to Warrick.........unless i can grab a tow vehicle :blush, ripping the sump off on anything as big as a butterfly, or larger getting there, would be placed at good odds!. i new my car was low, but never really thought it was THAT LOW🤪

[ Edited on 24-9-07 by dumone ]

Great stuff mate.

Which 4wd shop did ya get the brackets from Daimo?

Did ya get the fuel reg locally as well?

Daimo, can't you just raise the rear spring plates up a little to get some more clearance? You may have an obvious answer for that but just thought I'd ask anyway.
Alan

yes i can Allan, time is short tho............

Don't I know it!

My Nissian Patrol 4.2 Ltr Petrol, had a rev limiter similar to that, shrts the spark out out high Rpm. Sound cool when you hit it 🤪

Love the work, quite inspiring seeing high performanced air cooled stuff.

Out of interest what sort of time preiod has it taken to collect all your components, or did you just hit Gene Berg with one really decent sized order?

Also in your found wisdom, would you reccomend saving the cash and ordering every thing you need in one hit or collecting over time.

Im guessing if done over time you hide the cost's from certain people 😉 hehe

orrrkay, so i've turned the motor with the starter without rockers and pushrods installed. all good, cranking with 65KPA oil pressure after the pressure light went out:thumb

installed rockers, set valve lash at .006..........oiled springs valve stems too.

finished off the rocker cover breathers...........😎







primed up the fuel and ran a bit through to rid the system of any foreign material.....




regulator checks O.K:thumb




add some pre tuned 48's..........




and some ignition leads...........(i will run these through tubing later)




"FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!!"




............i'm armed with the timing light and the 'ol family jewels are tucked up tight, i'm off to hit the key. cross your fingers everyone. back soon!

[ Edited on 26-9-07 by dumone ]

Wellll...........:o

it takes 20 minutes for run in...........patience

....meanwhile inside the engine :vader


.... and after the first run around the block it's time for :beer:beer:beer

Hope all goes well Daimo - hopefully I'll be at this stage tomorrow if all goes to plan!

I look forward to seeing how it pans out.

And ???????......................come on !

And ???????......................come on !

oh it soo runs...............crisp and responsive, fired straight up.

already had spectators from around the neighbour hood, back soon with details,vids and piccies

🥷🤘

Daimo, I've see enough photos to know this will run fine 🙂 congratulations to you and your supportive wife. I bet your heart was in your mouth when you hit the starter 🙂 I know I always do when I put together an engine. Hope to see it at Warwick.




Stephen

:thumb:thumb:beer....................congrats........I hope you're going to put a few k's on it before warwick:duh

thanx.

basically i again primed the oil in two ways, fiist i tilted the car as high as the jack would go on one side, then the other, turning the engine by hand several revolutions whilst the oil was gathered in the heads:thumb

... with the beetle on the ground again,we wound the engine with the starter till the oil light went out.

one last berg style pose..........




a rub on the budda's belly (pregga's missus-thanx babe:kiss)then,

adding the fuses back to the ignition, and switching the fuel pump on, only ten seconds more cranking had the first couple of coughs, then BANG..........LIFE! timing was at 25 advance, and quickly sorted to 30'

rev head! watching the tacho through the rear screen........




well. sync from the carbs' pretune was amazing! jetting seems soooo good, no hesitation or bogging, crispy on the couple of times i reved it over the 20minutes of break in. only a couple of leaks from the tappet covers that didn't have any sealant goop anyways......

vaital signs great at 2500 RPM! (old school matey, 'ol school:kiss)





so i should really go to work for the next couple of days, which pretty much spells the end of my Warrick dream...too low!, no muffler! not enough K'S on the engine!, no trailer!....YET:duh....and a suspected fuel leak in the hard line within the tunnel!......besides, the kids and missus have taken enough neglect allready, so i might throw the towel in here, content that it's finally running👍....still be at Warrick, just not in "bugsmoney" unfortunately🙅

i've got a video loading, but it is not so good (blank screen and loads of noise would work better:thumb)... i will grab a decent one on the next break in run......





[ Edited on 26-9-07 by dumone ]

[ Edited on 26-9-07 by dumone ]

[ Edited on 26-9-07 by dumone ]

Good to see it fired up and ran well mate.....sorry to see the bug won't make it to warwick

Crank the Ride Height, Run it with the Stinger, drive it to work, take the Kids and Wife for a Ride... get some k's on it

everones happey 😵

hmmmm

Well done and from what you've done it will be so worth the ride...... no rush for Warwick as there will always be next year and you will have fixed all the hiccups, run it in.... there would be nothing worse than to rush it and break something you could have fixed with more time.

Enjoy. :bounce

CONGRATS👍

Awesome on the engine mate, sorry about the fuel leak, that sort of tears it :cry

Do get as much done as you can before your loverly pregnant lady becomes a loverly Mum!

Your spare time quotient will be drastically pruned :blah

Bet you cannot get the grin off your face 😏 Good on you!

Good sheit! :thumb

Congratulations Daimo....I look on with envy, what wonderful work!

all is quiet...:jesus

Dero wrote:.....work, quite inspiring seeing high performanced air cooled stuff.

Out of interest what sort of time preiod has it taken to collect all your components, or did you just hit Gene Berg with one really decent sized order?

Also in your found wisdom, would you reccomend saving the cash and ordering every thing you need in one hit or collecting over time.

Im guessing if done over time you hide the cost's from certain people 😉 hehe

thanx for the kind words........

basically the bottom end was bought as a "kit", with some changes chucked in to boot, this would be the way to go........having said that, once an account is set up at bergs, the worlds best parts are only five days away after an email, OOOORSUM!.....'

sooooo, the top end was hidden from the last missus, and this bottom from the current:kiss (jokes on the latter:duh)
all up, 10 years of hording with an intense 12 months at the end:thumb

and a thankyou to everyone else that has taken an interest in the process, also for for the encouragement and kind words.......

it's not over yet🤪

Craig Torrens wrote:all is quiet...:jesus

seemingly..........

a holiday at Warrick was great without the hectics of running........a great weekend and thanx to everyone involved in the organising if you happen to be reading this. sorry i didn't make it with the car........next year!

after the Warrick weekend, it was back to it. the valve gaps checked o.k before the second cam run (they had varied from where they were set, but nothing unexpected or problematic:thumb).

after a new fuel line was plumbed up along the tunnel,
the second run in went fine. with the annual hot rod run in action (300 'core rods!), a lap of Valla park with the stinger and sans bootlid proved irresistable..........plenty of heads turned searching for the source of the sweet noise and a few nods of approval😎............with only single springs and half throttle, there wasn't much performance stats to report on..........yet!

you don't necessarily have to stop for Bathurst........:kiss




carbs and plugs removed ready for install of the inner valve springs. an "air bung" is used in the plug hole and compressed air pumped into the cylinder to hold the valves shut whilst compressing the springs..........




berg tool in place with the pushrod tubes well and truely plugged and lash caps out of the way. a couple of spare "cow magnets" are handy for keeping track of the collets.

getting the collets back in proved a little tricky at first (horizontal position of motor ment a tendancy for the first one loaded in dropping to the bottom and falling off) but after getting it down pat, all eight springs were removed, doubled up, and replaced with in an hour🤘




rear tin fresh air rams were also finished up.......




coincidence that the correct size tube happens to be the V.W air tubes...............think not🙅






down into the high pressure area below the torsion housings untill i make up some scoops (shaped like a vacaumn cleaner head) that will also feed the oil cooler above the gearbox.......




[ Edited on 8-10-07 by dumone ]

thats unreal daimo. awesome!

well done

nick

traction/hop bar

plug welded a piece of drilled and tapped rod into the center of the bar for the rubber mount. the mount is like a sandwhich of rubber between two sheets of steel with a thread for mounting on the bottom🤖




mounts on the body are forward a couple of inches from vertical, the idea being to "preload" the rear of the engine upwards so to stop it drooping under hard take offs. some whiteline sway bar rubbers and the 17mm engine mount nuts just so happen to fit perfect😁

rockers are back under those covers and the gaps set with the dual springs installed:thumb. new gaskets and drains sealed up with goop this time around




fitted up so the rubber center mount is under the factory type 3 mount location.




looks low, but it's above the sump height so shouldn't cause any dramas. i had left enough room to clear the oberg filter fine too:thumb




carbs , sparkplugs and ignition leads reinstalled............the traction bar pulled the engine up almost enough for the phat boy to go on:o. the phatty surprisingly cleared the bar and hangers fine😎




although looking menacing 🥷,the phat boy rests against the body under the bumper mounts still tho. it might be a simple fix by cutting the 3 bolt flange off and tuning it slightly:duh...




chased away from the garage door by hail and lightning🤪 sorted the "must have"🙄 monster tach and set up the wiring for the air/fuel guage.....




spewin it had to go up so high, but there aint many places they will fit and then be still visable in our little bugs hey🙅

back tomorrow

I notice a Oxy sensor in the collector, whens the EFI coming? 😀

Obviously it is there for future improvments 😎

LOVE IT!!

oh and when do we get the burnout pic 🤪

[ Edited on 8/10/2007 by Dero ]

Coming along nicely, great to see a new spin on a couple of great ideas.

Dero wrote:I notice a Oxy sensor in the collector, whens the EFI coming? 😀

Obviously it is there for future improvments 😎

LOVE IT!!

oh and when do we get the burnout pic 🤪

[ Edited on 8/10/2007 by Dero ]

the burnouts will come after i build a berg 5 speed with ZF and some good axles..........you can probably tell by now that i'm not exagerating too 🥷

once the box is sorted, the E.F.I, will happen...............a glimpse of what's in stall is back a couple (?) of pages.....

......a flanged exhaust and copper gaskets would be a prelude to ...................🤪

....and the oxy sensor can be put to good use straight away, in fact, tonight it allready has been!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🤘

spent most of the day routing wires and soldering. i've tried to do everything from the start so i don't have to go back and tend to "half dones". i figure once it's going, i won't want to stop driving it anyways:P

air/fuel meter........

3 wire sensor (meaning heated)was wired up.earth kept short, keyed power run up to fuse box behind back seat and , obviously, sender thru to dash..........




so much for my sleeper days of hidden guages🙅




"gizzmo" (independent & dual stage) sift light mounted on steering column........




in fact, the scenery from the cockpit looked pretty good today😂...........the features of the memory tacho are amazing! (ebay can be your friend🤖)






one last thing.....chuck the "hoodjax" back on. wow, that took all of 10 seconds to save 15 degrees of oil temp. (if you haven't got one, get it today, now there's a plug VWCOOL :thumb)




anyways, enough side tracking :blush............the fuel meter and hoodjax earn't their keep tonite!!!!!!!

I WENT FOR A DRIVE!!!!!!!!!!

I'VE CREATED A MONSTER!!!!!!

..........took it down the road tonite. cough and splutter on the idle circuit mean't nothing going on (fuel meter confirmed this with the needle falling out the passenger door, it's so far past lean:kiss) UNTIL 3500.RPM!!! then....... BANG......the guage bolts towards the rich side and next thing the 5400rpm limit is cracking away and shift lights flashing everywhere🥷

it just wants to rev and rev!!! pulling at a constantly increasing rate right thru till pop pop pop pop.... next gear!

with the 309/V-26 cam, i'm positive the bttom end should come good with some larger idle jets, can't wait to try........

oh the noise!!!.... stomp on it and the cabin fills with an induction trumpet solo........when coasting the exhaust is crisp with that unique flat four sound, ready to "crackle".............ooooooooo and the straight cut gears! although a constant companion, sound soooo phat at idle🥷

check the tappets again, change some jets and have another go

STOKED!

[ Edited on 10-10-07 by dumone ]

:thumb:thumb:thumb!!

nice work 🙂

congrats :thumb................worth the wait !

Congrats!:thumb

I like the idea of the cow magnet to help keep an eye on the keepers!😊

Wish I would have thought of that some years ago!

Man.....how cool is that!
Hey Daimo, by the way, Where did you get the Tacho bracket?? looks awesome.
The GB shifter is gonna go in the ratter too in a couple of weeks, can't have it sitting in the box any longer!

Just need to get your pilots license now to read all the instruments.......................as well as potential low flying :P

jeez, like Craig said, that's plenty of instruments! And thanks for the rap on the Hoodjax!

70 idles brought the bottom end back schweet!

gauge says i'm rich right thru now, except a couple of throttle positions where i need to work out what the go is. maybe need bigger accelerator pump jet for some leaning as i accelerate and larger air corrector/smaller main to take some fuel out at the top. i will wait for the phat boy to go on before more sorting of the set up. air flow tool (syncroniser) showed the sync using the feeler gauge way back when the carbs were rebuilt was a good method. they didn't need any adjustment!

anyways,

putt around an intersection in third gear and smoothly accelerate from 1400rpm, no problems, then bang on it and pull right thru to the limiter, which is still catching me by surprise at times...........very, very driveable!

sooo, after five runs on the motor, the valve clearences have settled and now set at .004" (5th adjustment), and with new running in oil, it was time for an endurance test. temp got up to 100'c after 30 km at 100 km/h..........not too bad as the roof rack bumps it up by 7-10'c alone, and the cooler is still not hooked up. i'm still using the tiny race muffer that's in a couple of the start up pics, it's obnoxiously loud (to everyone 'cept me!)............running up behind a group of Harleys, had several of them looking down at their bikes before they turned their heads around only to see a 'lil green beetle making truck like sounds behind them.

nothing dramatic stuck in the oil filter at the first check. for sure there are a lot of things bedding and cutting in, inside the engine tho




so it was time to hook up the oil cooler via a thermostat.primed all the lines/cooler up with a hand pump..




and added some more fresh air rams directed to the cooler🤘




much better with the cooler. temp runs up to 85'c fairly quickly, then doesn't go over 92'c no matter how hard i try😎



instruments...........yes lots,the tacho is kinda annoying me, it's very in 'ya face (bracket came from the samba B.T.Rat).........air/fuel can be mesmerising.........funny thing is the speedo seems to be the last one i check out now 😏

........one good thing about the wacky tacho is it records and stores 4 runs of up to 360 seconds!!...........here's one i did accelerating thru to fourth gear...........still haven't granted myself full throttle, but you can see how the rate of acceleration isn't slowing down as the limiter puts a stop to all the fun...............🥷..........i wonder what revs it will want to do without it❓






promise to get a good vid with decent sound soon

gday mr pell. I think the last time i spoke to you was when i came down with alan atkins for valla spec about 1990 there abouts, when dave buttler was still young and had a 1776! my things have changed good to see you have hooked up with jeff how is he these days?

mactaylor wrote:gday mr pell. I think the last time i spoke to you was when i came down with alan atkins for valla spec about 1990 there abouts, when dave buttler was still young and had a 1776! my things have changed good to see you have hooked up with jeff how is he these days?

In 1990 I was 21.
IIs it that long ago?!

Actually last time I went to Valla was 1994 I think,
When Old Boy Gene came for a visit.

yes we are all getting older 😢

yes older!.....

i've been aging at the rate of one second per second since the day i was born too🤓

cut and shut the phat boy today. mounted to the body with "soft" mount........




got the muffler up nice and tight. you can see how much prop is provided by the VWCOOL's "hoodjax", also understand why i'm getting total induction sounds echoing through the neighbourhood😂




as well as the rocker covers above (that have been brazed a couple of times now), the tail pipe will get a lick of paint to finish things off........




i've got 300km on the motor now, without any issues (touch wood!!).........so apart from a couple of artsy pics near the beach, some tuning reports, a post of thanx to all who helped and some NOISY VIDEOS to come.........

.....this is........

THE END

case closed.........




thanx❗

Well done.... it's been another good story to follow... thanks for the opportunity

yes, but how hard does it go? 😁

pete wood wrote:yes, but how hard does it go? 😁

pffft.......🙄

Hell thats COOL
👍👍👍

dumone wrote:

pete wood wrote:yes, but how hard does it go? 😁

pffft.......🙄

and?🤓

😏

Sounds great dude. Fantastic buildup and fantastic result. 👍

sounds good. i'd love to seem some vid of a standing start from outside the car. 😉

any more updates.....................dyno run ????

all is well............

3000km up,loads of tappet checks & oil changes, 6800rpm limiter is in. bumped the drain nut out of the sump once and lost the 6L of oil, soon got around to raising the suspension after that. handling well even up a bit higher, front to rear rake has to be spot on tho.

still tuned quite rich as this stage for safety

been chasing a "high end" cough/splutter/missfire...........

signal coil was stuffed. a new one helped a lot with cold starts and higher revs, still not right tho. it was barely reacting to any jet changes now and i went through the entire range of my jets to no avail. playing with fuel pressure and fixing a accelerator pump "check ball" that had some garbage sticking it open

i knew i needed new ball joints for the linkage to get sync perfect.............they arrived last week, after being out of stock for a month.............better

time to lean it out and tune properly

air correctors........ after going to the 200 from the 190's, i noticed it staying off the main circuit for even longer, leaving a leaning out period after the idles finished. jet changing did not affect the position of this leaning, but changed the mixtures accordingly (rich/lean) once the mains DID come on properly..........dellorto describe the air correctors as an air brake, turns out from what i've found so far, they more effect the "switching on" of the mains more than the mixture itself. SOOOOOO back down to the 180's i went, this took most of the lean hesitatation away around the 3400-4000rpm, but it was still inconsistent with a big miss, surging and what sounded like flooding in the R/H carb up high in the revs?????? (but never more than one symptom at a time🤪)

timing was raised to 34' total, this changed the nature of the flat spots, but not completely removing them

floats...........the flooding was occuring worsa 🤓 up hill or aroung corners......so pulled the tops off today and found the r/h one was not quite closing the ball seat ALL the time due to the sideways movement of the float on the hinges .........it also wasn't opening up a great deal, although the berg seats don't need much travel to flow anyhow, not sure which part of the deal did it, but that got rid off the flooding and bogging effect, stoked about that!!!!!

still a slight missfire/hesitiation above 4700rpm........down one main size to 150's..........

50 accelerator pumps
36mm vents
70 idles (could go down to 65's now i think)
150 mains
180 air correctors

WHAAAA LAAAAAAAA!!!

FARK NOW IT IS MOTORING!!!!!

now it's banging off the 6800rpm limiter like no tomorrow, and i'm not the type to rev something past it's peak power just to say it does some stoopid rpms............it absolutely loves it up there!!!

the grin on my face was HUGE as i flew along the back roads today.............mate at work wanted to know what i had been up to when i walked through the door, smiling a lil too much i think......even after having driven the car for a couple of months with the new motor

it's now finally what i was after.......enough to make you think about what's ahead on the road and reaslize it's going very fast, very quickly. too fast to be giving it a poke around town🥲........i realize now it wasn't doing the goods for what was put into the build, until todays sorting

it is still very, VERY LOUD!!!😂getting close to 300km out of 30L of fuel, but that's real country driving, up hill, down dale, round bends & WIDE OPEN (roads that is😁 ), none of this freeway cruising stuff

NOW it's time for a trip to the dyno and some high def vids

roll on the videos 🙂

yeah baby...!

man thats great work

Sounds great!
I once watch this doco about old american cars and there interiors etc and the safety of them. These are the cars that the owners wish they were rocket ships.
In a front on crash they were finding that all the bling on the dash was cause massive head injuries but what was more disturbing was that in one model car the glovebox lid would come down and decapitate passengers. Just a thought 😉
T54

still putting around everyday, clocking up around 500km a week. heres a rough vid, please excuse the lazy gear changes............if eva it drys up, i can get footage of a decent run🤪

Sounds sweet as dude...
Congrats on a job well done.

it won't play for me😢

have you had it on a dyno yet ? should produce some good ponies 👍

try this one Craig,




yep keen to dyno just for giggles. go it lined up, won't be long

nice all you need now is someone too walk behind you all the time and say "thats HUGE!"

sounds very very smooth, not VWish at all. more like...like...I know! a subaru. 😁 still that's a real complement coz VWs are not known for wanting to rev like that.

but seriously, that is a wicked bit of kit. I think you'll find when you fit your EFI that poking around town will be a whole lot more comfy. That's really the main difference between big ol carbs and efi, smooth delivery from idle to redline and no dramas with flat spots easier to tune out.

What he said!
L8tr
E

mactaylor wrote:nice all you need now is someone too walk behind you all the time and say "thats HUGE!"

and saying "can I turn it off now" hehehehe

Mate all hot Volksies sound that good. You just got to build em right. Sorry to say but I reckon the subi's sound rough due to their different firing order I presume. I say GO THE VOLKSIES !!!!!
And as for carbs being not as smooth...... who tunes your engines?
😁

Hey Daimo,

Just wanted to say that I love this thread!! Can't wait to see more videos! How did you take them?

Your work has been an inspiration for my home engine rebuild - even if it is the 3rd time I've had to rebuild mine!

Might have to hit you up for some ideas if that's ok.

Cheers, T 👍

matberry wrote:Mate all hot Volksies sound that good. You just got to build em right. Sorry to say but I reckon the subi's sound rough due to their different firing order I presume. I say GO THE VOLKSIES !!!!!
And as for carbs being not as smooth...... who tunes your engines?
😁

subies have the same firing orders as dubs. subaru pays VW royalties for building on their boxer design. If you'd heard my subie at 6k you'd know why that I mean by my comments re the sound. No one tunes my subie coz it doesn't need tuning, it tunes itself. 😉

Carbs are good, but EFI is better. 👍

Am I jealous of Dumone anyway? YOU BET YA! 😂

the numbers are the same but the cylinder numbers are in different position no?
VW: IXI
SUBE: Z

Enough Subaru talk.
Never seen a fast one yet that has no boost.
Car is sounding awesome Daimo.

even the boosted ones are slow on the track👍

Hey boy's I didn't say they were slow, just sound rough. Certainly agree they need boost for any decent speed. I'm currently working on one with 500+hp and it is cheaper than vw hp, but equivilent vw would eat a subie, they just dont seem to react as well , must be all the extra weight, among other things. At least thy're flat, for low cg.
Pete I have efi cars as well, even air cooled ones, but I feel carbs do have advantages.

10 000 Km service due.................all is well👍

Good work Daimo.
Shows you did everything right!

Did you end up getting her onto the dyno and what were the results. Well done on the build and enjoy.

Kev

Camo wrote:Did you end up getting her onto the dyno and what were the results. Well done on the build and enjoy.

Kev

looks like we will find out some dyno results this Saturday.....

hellbugged wrote:

Camo wrote:Did you end up getting her onto the dyno and what were the results. Well done on the build and enjoy.

Kev

looks like we will find out some dyno results this Saturday.....

Wheres that m8????😎

Brisbane with the others, finished tune, service and clean today..........

hellbugged wrote:Brisbane with the others, finished tune, service and clean today..........

let me know how you go😎

Good to hear you're making the trip up Daimo - looking forward to having a chat again!
Al

Craig Torrens wrote:even the boosted ones are slow on the track👍

you idiot😂

matberry wrote:Hey boy's I didn't say they were slow, just sound rough. Certainly agree they need boost for any decent speed. I'm currently working on one with 500+hp and it is cheaper than vw hp, but equivilent vw would eat a subie, they just dont seem to react as well , must be all the extra weight, among other things. At least thy're flat, for low cg.
Pete I have efi cars as well, even air cooled ones, but I feel carbs do have advantages.

wat you are saying is true! but the head work is the difference.....Not many or any subie operators are doin this🙅

dangerous wrote:the numbers are the same but the cylinder numbers are in different position no?
VW: IXI
SUBE: Z

Enough Subaru talk.
Never seen a fast one yet that has no boost.
Car is sounding awesome Daimo.

True there. I used to love hosing off blokes in Impreza's Rx's who had all the looks of a WRX but without the turbo. Gee they got cut when top end 2nd an orange block of flats starts pulling past them.

the reason the Subaru flat 4 sounds so throbby is due to the header pipe configuration. Unequal lengths from all 4 pots and the way they then collect causes the noise. Anybody notice how only a few years ago all the WRC cars changed sound and just now sound like a normal inline 4?? Changed the pipe design and went to equal length primaries.

Daimo can't wait to hear this thing of yours on dyno on saturday. Should be very nice indeed.

LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:

dangerous wrote:Enough Subaru talk.

Daimo can't wait to hear this thing of yours on dyno on saturday. Should be very nice indeed.

yeah, this weeks tune came up really well.........i thought i was just getting used to it, but found a loose velocity stack (like fallen off!) i get the feeling it had been like that since "bug-in" as the issues that developed down there have now gone ........so it's like having the new toy all over again🤘.........

should i bring the stinger?.........do we get the chance to run with the muffler then quickly switch to the stinger?.......it would take all of two minutes to swap mine out.

i'm not sure if i'll leave here after work Friday (10p.m) and have a kipp or like 3.am Saturday...............strangely enough i haven't been able to con anyone into the day trip yet!..........JVL maybe?

Rod brought his last year and changed it. Made like 7hp difference, It doesn't take up much room so might as well.

LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:

dangerous wrote:the numbers are the same but the cylinder numbers are in different position no?
VW: IXI
SUBE: Z

Enough Subaru talk.
Never seen a fast one yet that has no boost.
Car is sounding awesome Daimo.

the reason the Subaru flat 4 sounds so throbby is due to the header pipe configuration. Unequal lengths from all 4 pots and the way they then collect causes the noise.

Yep most US-import Cabrios sounds like a Subaru due to the Cal-cat exhaust's unequal-length primaries

I was given the honour of a few laps around the industrial estate in Daimo's birch green Berg powered bug on Dyno Day, youve done a great job mate from idle through to 6200 rpm it just pulls nicely, thanks again Daimo. See you at Valla.

Damo.

no worries Damo............glad you liked it.......i do too

DYNO DAY

1000 km round trip.......no trailer in sight

98.5hp.....1776cc......8.5/1 compression

on touring tune 🥷

98 octane

35mm venturies
180 airs
155 mains
65 idles
50 pump jets

1.2mm plug gap

timing 32'.... 12.5 fuel/air ratio



10 liters/100km.........running at 95 degrees
(3450 rpm @ 100 km/h)

should have gone to 36/38mm vents and smashed the 100 mark........next time🤓

Mate great output there for a little motor. Sounded great on the dyno too. Strong all the way throught the rev range.

so what revs was the peak power at ?

sounds sweeeeet with the stinger, did you get a run with the muffler ?

Congrats on the results, you must be pleased.😎

just realised that vid was not the graphed run, next one is and pulls more rpm for sure

yep, well chuffed

no muffler runs, would have bottomed out on the rollers.....it didn't feel any different on the blocky with the stinger, but maybe my back side was still numb from the trip🙅

hard to tell where peak rpm was. I told the guy he could run it up to 6500rpm and the power falls just before he backs out of the throttle ...........so it looks as if it was definately above 6000 rpm and had only fell by 1KW when he buttons off

here 'tis Craig..thanx for the encouragment

Oh what a screamer!!!!!

I loved the flames, they came on slow then climbed to hard!!

flames ❓

you didnt see the flames screaming out of the stinger? It looked great! At first it looked like you exhaust was molten red but then it was shooting out the back! I loved the look of the exhaust wrap over the stinger looked really tough!

😏.........i never saw that, would love to tho.

might be something to do with the ceramic coating on the stinger because i saw the red glow when graham was using it.........

cool, nice to meet you too by the way

why was your stinger red hot mr pell did you have a sniffer up its but?

hellbugged wrote:no worries Damo............glad you liked it.......i do too

DYNO DAY

1000 km round trip.......no trailer in sight

98.5hp.....1776cc......8.5/1 compression

on touring tune 🥷

98 octane

Ok, now I'm impressed. 98rwhp on pump gas from a 1776. 😎

You missed your calling Damo.

No it was a pleasure meeting you, Matt Berry, Dangerous and the like, with so much knowledge and awesome vw machinary I felt like the "gunna" pleb! Casue I aint "Done" nothing!

nice motor ❗ out of interest
how much $$$ is in this thing adding labour at $100/hr and then the bits

X-I-TED wrote:nice motor ❗ out of interest
how much $$$ is in this thing adding labour at $100/hr and then the bits

😂..........LOT$...........i'll do a component list and you can figure it from there, i've lost count of the dollars........you can put down 60 hours in the heads to start with🤪

How much you sell for Daimo?

matberry wrote:How much you sell for Daimo?

well, i'll be waiting for the dollar to go to an all time low and Rod Penrose to retire..............just making up a component list now and it's got me thinking about how much it actually cost/is worth, VERY SCAREY.

hellbugged wrote:

matberry wrote:How much you sell for Daimo?

well, i'll be waiting for the dollar to go to an all time low and Rod Penrose to retire..............just making up a component list and it's got me thinking about how much it is actually worth, VERY SCAREY.

worth or cost ??

I'd love to see some of the $100/hr....Just think of how smooth that 98.something horsepower is.
Sounds beaudifull mate.

Rod has certainly made performance vw engines alot more affordable, the 2165 I just finished cost under $5 1/2k fitted inc. me getting paid some...prob makes about 120 hp😂

great work Damo😎

WHAT A YEAR!

well 20 000 km down the road now, and it's happy days, i still get a kick out driving the car everyday, every time it leaves the garage, at some point i hit 6500 rpm, it's just too much fun...........

it was quite a year for the little screamer............i finally had a car that would not only stop and handle, but GO too!

Bug-In in March at Oran Park, Sydney was a chance too good to miss.

the weather was terrible and the entire trip was wet.....of course, i drove there , tackling the Easter freeway and city traffic head on...........



unloaded all the spares and hit the track, whoo hoo!



the 6800rpm limiter got a work out in the slippery conditions





drove off the track, loaded it up and made it home again just 26 hours after leaving, averaging 10L/100km.

watching the other cars was great, i was keen to see if i was kidding myself about the power i was making, comparisons had me excited about what the 1776 was churning out.........however it was daily duties for a few months first



Dyno Day....... Brisbane, July

with some encouragement from Dangerous Dave, i took the last minute decision to find out a real power figure........

load up the tools and spares and out of bed early!



smooth running again........but man i was COLD🙅



5 hours later i was at Brisbane!.....biggest chore of the day was strapping on the stinger.



i was very nervous when it fired up in the hands of someone else, ready for a public embarrasment of a sad output........finally D.B put his guess at 80 HP as it rolled in......however........there was a surprise install🥷





this was on it's everyday tune,still wish i had upped the venturis to break the 100HP, but none the less i was stoked!

Volkswagen Spectacular lap dash August

i never intended to run it at Valla, i hadn't tuned it for weeks, however a fireball ending to the race car saw me scambling for another ride..........the precious cargo to remove wasn't spares or tools this time around tho😎 and i wasnt far from home, so a good and proper thrashin' was in order



some by-standers asked Luke if i was pissed that the race car was broken because of the way i was hammering my beetle..........



"drives like that all the time" was the response........well except when bub is in the car.....

Warwick weekender October

a good tune up was in order before this run......it's another 5 1/2 hour haul, up some good ranges and i would have to carry the 3 days worth of camping gear this time...........at least i had my eldest offspring for company.



it ran faultlessly again (apart from a broken clutch cable)



with very, very soft launches (2.5 Sec 60ft) it ran a best of 10.55 @ 66 mph...........

so that was the year done👍..........i've had a ball travelling around, meeting, greeting, laughing and playing with all the other VW fanatics...........happy with the screamer i cooked up for myself and it's ability to get me "there and back again" with some fun in the middle each time

my gene berg addiction hasn't quite gone yet tho, infact i think i recently suffered a major relapse🥲..........



rhino case



welded magnesium gusset and heavy side plates



welded cross shaft



3.88 super diff and SAW axles







weddle gears, + one piece main and pinion shafts



time to get serious 🥷.................

Nice box

but you have 2 3rd Gears ???

Great wrap-up of a busy year for you Daimo.
Tranny should make a great car even better.
Looks like you will be able to run through the 1/8 mile in third at about 6000....sweet!

With the addition of EFI soon to come,
you have created a Volksy that is very versatile,
and the envy of those of us who only get to drive ours for short distances......and not every day!

thanx Dave, with all the excitment of Warwick, i again forgot to send you out for a run (Col enjoyed a short burst)......i'll come for a drive up your way when i get the box in for sure........

yes, gearing MPH looks good to run the 1/8 mile in third, and 1/4 in fourth?..........that was the aim.........i guess with further development, it will still run through in third, just at higher rpm?............

running around watching the tacho i think the little screamer will make good use of the box. I see being able to chug along at low rpm, short shift and drop rpm straight back to max tourque..........or get on the throttle and choose anything from a 5000rpm to 6500 rpm change, to provide whichever sensation i'm after........providing the best of both worlds for the windy, undulating back county roads and daily highway entry's and 110km/h cruising.......not to mention circuit and drag racing😂........can't wait

do you think 27mm torsions will be overkill?..........it looks very saggy in some of hotrodmatt's photos, ride comfort is never an issue

very glad i chose the box before the EFI with the $$ free fall, spewin i didn't grab a quaiffe whilst it was up..............those berg throttle bodies + injectors are currently providing some VERY smooth power on Lukes dual cab.........i've had a few go's at haltech E8's on ebay already, sometime in 2009 EFI will happen

Great read Daimo, for a great job well done.
The daily driver that keeps on going and surprising all.......gotta love it!

Looks like 09 will continue to surprise!

: )

As always impressive Daimo!! car will be awesome with box plus addition of EFI. Dyno day 2009 to see how much over the 100HP mark your car will be.

very nice montage daimo! great car, nice spread of ratios should be good for goin up hills aswell.

do you think 27mm torsions will be overkill?..........it looks very saggy in some of hotrodmatt's photos, ride comfort is never an issue

I think so. I'd go the next size down. Mr Hoszl recommends them for suabru powered circuit cars. Your butt should be light with the 1776 on board.

Nice wrap up Daimo, it is always great to catch up at events (often albeit briefly!), your dedication to making your combo work is highly admirable, along wtih your dedication to travelling much further than most to support such events! Well done mate.
Al 👍

So this is the box your raving on about mmmm🙅




NAH! only joking m8 great to hear....hurry up and get it in! iam only 20mins away take me for a ride😂

BERG 5 SPEED




stripped off the axle tubes to have a look at those SAW axles and check around a bit.......man I dig those chunky "rhino" ribs🥷





didn't get very far before i started thinking "WHY" was i pulling this apart after the reliability i'd had for the last 12 months.....
🥲


way beyond the point of return a couple of hours later.......chasing those chrome axle tubes of the old box



new mount had to go in.......



the front plate is used to line up the gearbox in correct position..........the factory rubber front is not used, but smaller berg supllied rubbers are

RUBBERS MISSING FROM THIS PICTURE!!!! DOH ❗



.....with rubber mounts installed❗🤓




i'd been warned that the body needed "dimpling" and the torson housing clearanced...........but a "CRATER" would have been a more adequate description!......



took a few trials before the sledge hammer and grinder made enough room.......🤪



just enough.............





once the box was lined up, Mr Weld paid a visit to tack in the mid mount.....



Kafer bars went in great and front gearbox mount was removed from the body, as having spent half the day under there, a plan was hatched to do a custom mount set up there........



my old faithful axle tubes were then installed on the box along with berg "axle retaining plate strengtheners", held on with big nuts and washers..........



all dressed up and ready to go.........



not enough hours in the day 😬

Pretty Spiffy there Daimo!

Woo Hoo !!!!

Do I know Mr weld ?
That stance looks quite familiar.

Great build pics as usual mate.

.... taking the time to take photos can be a real pain but for the readers of this thread makes for a really good read.... keep up the good work on both fronts, the car and the thread 👍

few nuts and bolts there👍

all finished now? must be time for some BIG SKIDS! 👍

yeah Pete, took a few more tricks to finish it off.......

new seals and spacers......



EA carriers cleaned up and re-installed



discs....



axle nuts KNOCKED❗ up nice and tight



calipers back on



getting there




"middle" clutch tube braket added (this is in behind the passengers seat)




gear coupling bushes checked ok (later type)..........shify rod was also removed and front bush also renewed. all this would need to be spot on to make sure all gears would be available.........as the button on the gear stick now locks out reverse and the fifth gear



new bowden tube and clutch cable. axle boots moved up after installing the box



new "late" style thrust bearing lubed up.........



which ment the "cone" required for running early thrust bearings needed to be removed from the pressure plate



and also changed the wire clips to the shorter style ones......



a couple of oil leaks were fixed on the motor, THEN we were ready to go ahead again........



fingers crossed........



lots going on under there now.......



all good again.........

yeah Matt, Mr weld is one of your ol mates...........

cruising through town........dropping what 500rpm each change out of the roundabout.........kinda like driving a motorbike now. blurp, blurp out of each corner and your off



60% throttle and not too many rpm to get up the hill on the highway..........this is up to 100km/h



again, just tickling (never mind the slow start in first, i was busy getting my knee wedged to hold the thing straight🤪)




acceleration is great, "slingshot" effect in each gear as each change puts it progressively more on power.......forth gear arrives then dissapears very quick........pulls the big top gear at 100km/h fine, even putting out of 80 zones at 2000 rpm is no problem in fifth

get some better footage when i have a passenger next as it's kinda hard to stay on the road and shoot vids at the same time.

left the oil cooler where it was for the moment (no Craigy bars yet🙅) so to get acurate figures on temp differences.........too early to call on fuel economy....

...but for sure the car is much, much quicker with the close ratios❗😎🥷🤘

luvin it

Sounds like those ratios are juuuuust right.

Beautiful job as always.👍

Good work Daimo,
love the vids.

Very sweett!!
Would be the most "kitted out" daily driver I have seen ... Well done on the combination i.e. engine gearbox ❗
That's how the beetle should have been sold standard 😵‍💫

should get "Mr Weld" to weld in some IRS adaptors😁

smooth, now how about some skids eh? 🤘

pete wood wrote:smooth, now how about some skids eh? 🤘

skids when i install kafer bars (move cooler)........ordered some new tyres today, so soon Pete, just for you👍

setting up for full throttle vids this arvo

irs is for girls Craig, where's your sense of adventure? 😂........

Ragtop is a swinger.........they are fun in the wet when you flat change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd !!hehehe

hellbugged wrote:

pete wood wrote:smooth, now how about some skids eh? 🤘

skids when i install kafer bars (move cooler)........ordered some new tyres today, so soon Pete, just for you👍

setting up for full throttle vids this arvo

irs is for girls Craig, where's your sense of adventure? 😂........

Old tyres make for the best skids. 😉

btw, looks like I'll be buying some pink skirts to wear whilst buggy driving. 😂

I think you get away with the IRS coz you are not using a lot of travel...and the LSD will help too. 🤓

no, standard height and bump stops since the engine went in........whitelines & konis mate!

hellbugged wrote:no, standard height and bump stops since the engine went in........whitelines & konis mate!

take me for a ride🤘

yes JVL, anytime

along to the bridge and up the hill on the otherside......found the timing down a couple of degrees and a lack of full throttle when i got home as i felt it was lacking some top end while filming this one..........anyways, it will do for now, good fun

this one is again undulating road with some long sweepers, a right angle, then up the hill to yet another rickety bridge............going fast enough by the time i get to fifth, so i'm not asking for anything of it by then

these types of roads are everywhere along my daily travelings 👍

the ol' bus run hey Daimo!!

hellbugged wrote:this one is again undulating road with some long sweepers, a right angle, then up the hill to yet another rickety bridge............going fast enough by the time i get to fifth, so i'm not asking for anything of it by then

these types of roads are everywhere along my daily travelings 👍

Nice vid...I particularly like the drivers wiper flopping up and down. But seriously it sounds really tight. I bet you could drive it a lot harder. How about some of that Ken Block action like in the hangers eh?

🤘

Yes, that's right, I want SKIDS! BIG SKIDS! 😂

yeah, not yet Pete, line locker, 27mm torsions and kafer bar still sit in the parts fridge

DOH!!!!!!!!!!

emptying out the box of foam packing "chips", what should fall out?.......the two rubber mounts that would have completed the picture for the factory nose cone mount😊..........it never made sense that the "5 speed" mid mount would have rubber side mounts, yet solid on the front section..........makes sense that would never have been the case coming from the bergs

anyways, the addition cured the virbrations i was getting at certain rpm/road speeds after the "kombi" rubbers settled in over the first couple of weeks.......live and learn....idiot.

easy fix with a NOS chassis front mount welded in place





the bigger story tho is the results........

hard daily driving: fuel economy up 11 %

free way cruising: fuel better 20% PLUS!

i'm getting to 100 km/h 70 meters before i was before when merging onto the highway

and engine temps remain stable below 100 deg.

(interestingly the hoodjax makes more difference when driving hard in the lower four gears,with temperatures rising quicker than with the standard ratios..... but has similar results post 5 speed on the highway, when it only becomes a necessity on the hotter ambient temperature days.........)

for all but the steeper hills, i cruise in fifth gear EVERYWHERE with the torque of the 1776 surprising to say the least (thanx to Jeff for the advice on the GB 309 cam)........mostly overtaking is also done in top, happy days!

5 speeds, an absolute pleasure to drive with the chosen ratios and truely the best of both worlds!

Merry Christmas Happy Camper😉

Looks a lot easier then going the porsche box option.
Nice job there. I like the roll cage you have in your bug, Are they available for the public to buy or did you get it custom made?

Nice job Damo. Great to see and read about it. The vids are sweet too. Love that reving aircooled sound👍

dam that sounds nice, such a tight sounding car, great vids. mmmmm to have 5 gears 🥲

Looks good, 5 gears seems very tempting 😀

Where can I get a pair of those rear caliper mounts?

sounds great

Just been reading through this again and watching videos. How stuffin good is that 5th gear, love it 😁

You must be one happy camper.

Kev

thanx everyone........didn't notice the new comments for a while.

yep, pictures say a thousand words..........vids say even more!

here's one from Valla show 2008, pre 5 speed......it has a little hesitation out of a couple of corners where it drops 1 or 2 cylinders because of too high float levels in the carbs causing flooding (i think 🤓)........



oh and i like this one, you can hear it coming and it aint stopping for nothing!🤪........not even the corner ahead




Jen...rollcage is old "bonds", pain in the backside for daily chores, but it's nice to have it when racing.

Cam...rear brakes are modified EA falcon, i sent you a pm about them

Reubs,Boozo, Grogy and Camo........yes the fifth is great, but the first four gears are phenominal👍. it was a huge commitment to go the five speed and i would reccomend building and running the engine first as if i had i not known where the power and tourque was delivered from the engine, it could have ended very pear shaped with that .82 top...........the little screamer holds the fifth very very well, however another 300 rpm taller, and the tourque would not have been available at the cruising RPM........YUCK!!.........however, it's all happy days as it did turn out just right

sounds good and tight yes!!!........however the noise was becoming a little too much for some and a new muffler was added just hours after a visit from a well dressed man of authority with a fancy car carrying equally fancy lights on the roof😀...........it was on the to do list after my friends started saying they could hear me, quite litterally from kilometers away🙅.

turned out fine with a "magnaflow" stainless muff sitting on the shelf at a mates......it says on the box "no chambers, no baffles, no louvers, no restrictions!!!".........it's not quiet, but loads better, 2.5 inch I.D.......PHAT!





on other fronts, i've over come a couple of niggling problems........the coil doesn't mind frying dizzy caps and the end of the coil lead was litterally disintergrated!, a green sludge that was formally copper welcomed me when it was popped off the dizzy end......and the clutch peddal hook broke off which had me cringing each flat change with no clutch operation at all, got up and down through all five gears a few times with out a scrape tho, which was actually a lot of fun............it did get me motivated to protect the $$$ in the box as best i could from there in, so the "washington anti shocker" was finally set up.

a job that just didn't look like fun, but turned out very easy........and best of all it works!!!......a slight clunk sensation that could be heard and felt on hard changes is now gone, i can dump the clutch as quick as possible and it's always smooth.

it really only slows the operation for the last poofteenth of travel, so it was important to have the set up of free play just right, then the anti shocker is adjusted against the clutch arm so it is .020 from bottoming out in the engaged position.



OPEN.........



some say it's in the blood, they may well be right!!! this one is a terror, menace, DV8, fun loveing cheeky little ball of energy. she is into everything @ 13 months!

another run at Valla with my mate.........can't wait to try this again with the close ratios and no flooding holding the car back out of the corners 🙅

The Washington anti-shocker ... where did you come by this Daimo? Great idea but never heard or even thought of it.

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?name=Wheelie%20Bars,%20Anti-shocker,%20Drag%20Fans&cPath=18

from the berg site.....


Stock VW Beetles are quite reliable in their stock form when they are driven accordingly. However, when the horsepower is increased, and/or the vehicle is subjected to abusive starts and/or power shifting, breakage often occurs. Parts subjected to the highest shock loads which are most prone to breakage are: axles, CV joints, ring and pinions, first gears, and flywheels coming loose, even when all of the proper strength components and building techniques are utilized.
The primary reason that these parts break, is not always just more horsepower, but excessive shock. Whenever the clutch is engaged fast or slammed shut, this shock travels through all of the drive components. The most common situation in which this occurs, is starting out fast in first gear (such as a drag race start). The engine speed is increased to a high RPM and the clutch is engaged as rapidly as possible. When the clutch slams closed and locks up, a large torque peak (shock load) is created which greatly increases stress on all parts. This drag racing type of driving is lots of fun, but it sure is hard on the drive train.
These shock loads are transmitted through the clutch, then 1st gear, spider gears, ring and pinion, CV joints or axles to the tire and will also be transmitted back through the flywheel and crankshaft when full lock up occurs. For street driving with rubber mounts, the parts will withstand some of this type of abuse. However, it will eventually find the weakest link in the chain and that one will fail if you continue to treat it this way.
Generally speaking, when any clutch stronger than stock is used, the shock load to the drive train is increased. One reason for this is because stronger clutches will normally have a narrower working range and engage faster and harder.
The clutch spring diaphragm is also much stronger and will slam closed with much greater speed. Likewise, when a disc that is designed to lock up without slippage is used in a race application, even with a stock pressure plate, the shock is increased in the system. Of course, stronger clutches are required for modified engines that put out more horsepower and torque than a standard stock engine. Which one to use is something your parts suppliers should have a great deal of experience with in order to assist you with the proper choice.
Many people have attempted to reduce breakage by installing a Cush Lok fabric disc that slips each time it is engaged. Unfortunately, there is no way to ever control this slippage. It changes from run to run and the pressure plate and flywheel distort badly from this slipping. Some would slip too much and not even last for one run and another might last for one race. It is impossible to be consistent with the car, and consistency is required to win races. In fact, any combination that cannot be reliably engaged time after time should not be considered for any application where dependability is important.
Don't despair, there is a way to use stronger clutches that engage properly without slipping and will also reduce parts breakage for drag racing. The general idea is to control the speed of closure of a strong enough pressure plate and/or 3 puck disc, to close at the exact rate to have it hook up properly. However, you do not want it to slam closed so fast and hard that it causes breakage. In other words, a clutch engagement shock reducer.
The "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) is an adjustable hydraulic shock absorber. It is about the size of a small cigar, and it mounts on the driver's side of the car, right on the transmission. It is held in place with the upper engine attaching bolt. It contacts the clutch arm. It must have the pressure plate properly adjusted, as in our pressure plate instructions. So the arm is back in its proper operating location and any forging flash must be removed so you have a flat, square surface for the Anti Shocker to contact. The clutch engagement shock reducer is adjustable from zero to maximum shock reduction affect. A numbered dial is on the device, which enables precise adjustment. It is locked in place with a set screw

The following is how it works. When the clutch is engaged and the engine speed is closely matched to the car speed and chosen gear, there is no shock load. If there is a large difference in engine and car speed, such as speed shifting or engaging the clutch fast when the car is standing still (drag race start), at the exact moment the clutch disc locks up, there is a shock peak that is astronomical. If this peak is high enough, it will break parts right away. If the peak is slightly less, parts might break in 100 clutch engagements. If the shock peak is low enough, maybe nothing will ever break.
If the torque shock peak concept is difficult to understand, imagine letting your clutch out slower. Obviously the shock load is less. However, trying to control a fast clutch engagement reliably (so that parts won't break), in racing situations consistently, is impossible. The "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) adds only a few imperceptible milliseconds to the clutch engagement time to greatly reduce the torque shock peak. Because this device only controls the engagement of the clutch and not the disengagement, like most hydraulic devices, it is undetectable to most users and there is no perceptible slipping or difference in the way the clutch works. The clutch handles just as much horsepower with it installed as it does without it. Testing so far has shown no reduction in the life of the clutch. It is reliable and works the same, time after time. On a drag race car, consistent time slips within .01 or .02 second reaction times were still maintained.

This part was developed and tested for a 1969 IRS drag racing sedan that runs in the high elevens at the drag strip. Needless to say the CV joint flange (spider gear) often broke. At the start it did not break parts but as years went by, the car got faster, and more, and more parts broke. One year the car was taken to the track four times and couldn't even make one run as the CV joints or spider gears kept breaking. After the "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) was installed, it didn't break any parts for four years, even after hundreds of runs. It works on swingaxle or IRS, vehicles alike. However, it requires the 1967 and later straight clutch arm on the transaxle and that our copyrighted instructions are followed.


Be clear that the "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) will not reduce parts breaking due to the rear wheels getting off the ground, speeding up, coming down, and suddenly grabbing. It will also not stop breakage on cars that have the rear wheels spinning in a stationary location and suddenly grab or suffer from wheel hop. It’s function is to stop breakage from severe clutch engagements.
It has been used with great success. We get reports from purchasers of the "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) with miraculous results and the sheer joy of being able to consistently hook their car up without breakage. Many claim the investment has saved them enormous amounts of money normally spent on slipper clutches or broken parts, not even counting all of the work and lost races. Our thanks to you for letting us know and to Howard Washington for the great idea and years of testing
.








search for em on the samba........they were are berg item that's no longer available, but they come up from time to time in the for sales and i did find details for someone supplying them new during a search a while back........

i can help with a template for the mount and instructions if need be as they are often sold without them

Daimo, I have an anti shocker, but no mount plate. Could you copy your template for me please?

it's clear that you are finally ready for some big skids. so come one! 😁

VIDS!!!!! 😏

wow wow wow what can i say just effn awesome

That anti shocker is a good idea............what are they worth $$

matberry wrote:Daimo, I have an anti shocker, but no mount plate. Could you copy your template for me please?

what he said.
Matt if there is any chance of you knocking out and extra for me then I would happily cover any costs and then some, hopefully make the building of yours cheaper at the same time.

let me know....

yeah, ill get onto the template asap..........

Craig, around US$100 find them on "the samba".......bergs no longer stock them, but NOS pop up from time to time.......i'll check with Dee if she still has the mount plates around in the next few days.....

thanx Kroozzn........just a thread i did as i went really.....i'm sure others take the same time and care too..........

why do these boxes keep arriving on my doorstep with HALTECH written on them 👍 ........we're not done yet 👍

Golde60 wrote:

matberry wrote:Daimo, I have an anti shocker, but no mount plate. Could you copy your template for me please?

what he said.
Matt if there is any chance of you knocking out and extra for me then I would happily cover any costs and then some, hopefully make the building of yours cheaper at the same time.

let me know....

No prob Golde......soon as Daimo finds his round tuit.😂

Daimo,
Could you please tell me where I might purchase "clinkerite". I live in Brisbane but if you purchased the material from a retail chain I should be able to get the gasket material form a local supplier.

Alan❓

Alan,it just fell out of a cupboard here........that may not even be it's name coming from Jeff 😏........yes i wish i could find more too, it's far superior to anything i have found since 👎....sorry can't help at this stage

i think the round tuit is still under the floodwater guys, sorry.

Daimo

Thanks anyway. A friend told me about it and said it was great - so it stands to reason that it may not be made anymore!. I did find another one caled Manifoldite (stocked at Repco). Don't know what it is like though.

Alan

damo, I'm still waiting for vids of big skids! are you chicken or something? 😁

pete wood wrote:damo, I'm still waiting for vids of big skids! are you chicken or something? 😁

i haven't forgotten Pete........still no kafer bars, too much squat till bigger torsions go in and lacking line locker..............blah blah

hellbugged wrote:and lacking line locker..............blah blah

Thought at least that would be in by now 😂

line locker?

you've got 100rwhp and you think you need a line locker?

I'll make it simple so you understand.
1. hold throttle to floor with right foot
2. place stick in 1st gear
3. take left foot of clutch FAST
4. keep throttle on floor until tyres smoking... LOTS!

See, it's not that hard. 😁

p.s. don't forget to have someone hold a video camera. 😏

hellbugged wrote:why do these boxes keep arriving on my doorstep with HALTECH written on them 👍 ........we're not done yet 👍

SO what Haltech did you end up buying ?

C'mon wheres the updates 😂

where is the update!!

not much happening really........34000 km's up.

just finished moving oil cooler to front bumper via copper lines,works a treat...and now holds 10L of oil which makes for a fair investment of castrol edge each oil change🙄..... so kafer bars can now be fitted up too.

will get the line lock plumbed up, 36mm vents back in and rpm limit up to 7000rpm ready for race season.....want to knock off that 100HP mark and run hard into the 15's and sub 10's 👍

Way cool install Daimo.
Pitty to hear you're not coming up to Dyno day.

thanx Matt........oil temps down to thermostat opening temp (85 'c), as soon as it opens the temperature stops rising. still heats almost as quickly as before and difference in heat between return and sending copper pipes is very noticable, so that little cooler is working very effectively.

lifted the number plate up a bit higher to expose more of the cooler, but don't think it needs it at all, maybe summer, just maybe......i might do some more holes so the number plate can be mounted fair accross the cooler just for the hell of it, looking like the only thing we'll be able to have adjustable here NSW anyways...........



having set up for it over 6 months ago, finally found the time to strap up the kafer bars.......














another step towards blending street car with race car

the oil cooler looks like a sweet addition. I think i will cut the front apron/valance on my super, like the us spec version (or like joel's super, or dave carters super..) and fit one behind.

colonel mustard wrote:the oil cooler looks like a sweet addition. I think i will cut the front apron/valance on my super, like the us spec version (or like joel's super, or dave carters super..) and fit one behind.

👍👍

Is that a thumbs up for, good idea? Or just a 'Duh'

Thats a double thumbs up for.....just do it.

ok ive looked but cant find, what kind of pump are you using for the gearbox? i see one inlet pipe but no out, ill guess that the drain plug is the outlet?

STIDUB wrote:ok ive looked but cant find, what kind of pump are you using for the gearbox? i see one inlet pipe but no out, ill guess that the drain plug is the outlet?

no, just a breather......westi had a cooler and pump on the junka at the beginning

i've got a PWR cooler with AN 8 fittings for you if you go down that route, give me a holler

Hey,

this might be a dumb question, but are berg 5's just swingers?

colonel mustard wrote:Hey,

this might be a dumb question, but are berg 5's just swingers?

no either way.......swing axle or C.V joint

cool thanks for that 🙂

hope the vw's are treating you well 🙂

what size copper lines and oil pump u running dam0. im going down this route aswell... and howd u go about primming the lines...

hellbugged wrote:

STIDUB wrote:ok ive looked but cant find, what kind of pump are you using for the gearbox? i see one inlet pipe but no out, ill guess that the drain plug is the outlet?

no, just a breather......westi had a cooler and pump on the junka at the beginning

i've got a PWR cooler with AN 8 fittings for you if you go down that route, give me a holler

Will do, had a quick look thru westi's thread because someone i know is curious if i could make a similar dry sump tank, couldnt find specifics on gearbox cooler though, will look later on, currently ive had a long arse week & its 30mins into the only day i have off so on that note im going to bed!
(if you have the info of his cooler/pump etc on hand that would be nice) if not ill have a look for myself later on!

cnfabo wrote:what size copper lines and oil pump u running dam0. im going down this route aswell... and howd u go about primming the lines...

3/4 inch copper...26mm oil pump.

definately run an external oil thermostat tho so the car gets warm quick.....and worth getting oil pressure relief pump cover as my sisters car did not have one and when cold blew the lines of several times, despite them being clamped on barbed fittings

prime the lines with a "plunger" oil pump like used in 20L drums. i just disconect the lines at the rear of the car and pump away till it returns..........hook the return up and keep going till the oil level shows on the dipstick

thanks dammo

SHELVED😢

why???????

why ?

gearbox failure ?

whats going on???

clear as mud

driveline fine.....Chassis R.S

got bored one weekend pulled it apart.......time for "Ratstoration"

hellbugged wrote:"Ratstoration"

😂😂😂

Into it dude. You actually filmed it leaving for the last time???

ha Haa yeah Matt.......never been able to resist a lap without the muffler......it's always first thing removed when work begins

"Ratstoration"



how long till Valla ? 😵‍💫

johny rotten wrote:why ?

This could be one reason !!!

"im selling it to finance the notch cos subie engines rock in vw's" 👍

whats bad enough in it to warrant the tear down??

I reckon the 1776 and 5 speed into the "new" Rat car.........then put the old body shell onto an IRS pan with the mechanicals from the Hellbug 76 and go racing 😉

now that ive seen that pic... i see, ouch 🙁

Craig Torrens wrote:I reckon the 1776 and 5 speed into the "new" Rat car.........then put the old body shell onto an IRS pan with the mechanicals from the Hellbug 76 and go racing 😉

Jeez who's been feeding you info 🤪......now where was that roll cage group buy thread 🤓

hellbugged wrote:

Craig Torrens wrote:I reckon the 1776 and 5 speed into the "new" Rat car.........then put the old body shell onto an IRS pan with the mechanicals from the Hellbug 76 and go racing 😉

Jeez who's been feeding you info 🤪......now where was that roll cage group buy thread 🤓

What a plan mate.

Need to buy some Carillo's?

"Ratsto"

been real busy, click on the pic above.....push push, want to race it at the VW spectacular 👍

actuallyskippingthespacebarwillsavemoretime,gottogo,mortodo 🤪

Its looking mighty impressive. 🙂

The fungi on the rear window is my fav part 🙂

Will look cool

justgotthemotorin...looksmad!

Pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic 😵

stoopid slideshow has run out of capacity.....

fuuuuk me....hell of a operation😎

noice work, going to be ready for Valla? (dare is ask...)

Busy dude, looks like you've worn out the roundtoit.

All this in what ......three days?

yeah thanx for all the help Johnny 😂

yes Valla (?)........i only sleep 5 hours a day anyhow Matt.

Good one Damo! I love it when a plan comes together.