Second problem .
I have power at the fuel relay but the ecu will not start the pump .Have checked the pump it works fine/ changed relay /wires are correct , just nothing switching it on ??
ideas please , cheers seagullnn[ Edited on 17-7-2005 by seagull ]
subaruboxer ·
Hi seagull,
sounds to me like you have a ground problem. The check engine light is connected to ignition plus and ground from the ecu only. If you got plus from the ignition, you have no ground. Check your ground to the ecu.
ecu to check engine light is b 19 (that is the ground connection of the light)
The fuel pump relay is connected
ignition plus
d 12 and b 23 to the ecu
and to ground
Maybe I am wrong,
hope you find it. Okay ground is American English for you that is earth!!! Sorry I am more into American English.
[Edited on 23-6-2005 by subaruboxer]
boof2332 ·
I concurr.. sounds like a earth....
Brad ·
make sure you have earthed your engine block well. I had a few early on who really wanted a good earth not provided by the VW setup. Just ran one from the inlet manifold to the body.
seagull ·
Cheers guys I will check the above
boof2332 ·
One thing around the wrong way will also feed back into the computer causing problems that dont seem to make sense.
Again that is an earth issue. There are alot of earths for these motors..
Matt
seagull ·
Ok ran anther earth from motor to battery
ok eng light still does not work , has power now still no light , globe ok .
is there some thing missing to triger the relay ( shown here )
bajachris88 ·
Did u do "Ctrl Alt delete" yet? lol.
Sounds like a terrible problem mate, but im sure u will get through it okay. GOodluck 🙂
seagull ·
wires are
red ( i have power )
black / red > to fuel pump
purple with silver dot > to ecu
Cheers :beer
seagull ·
I need the force :vader
boof2332 ·
Does there need to be an earth there....arnt the fuel pumps earth triggered ....its not microtech..shame! I am a friggen expert there!
Matt
seagull ·
Its shitting me the same Matt , I tell you I am going to hit it ( !!!!!! ) ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
tryed an earth no go , its some thing silly I would say
subaruboxer ·
seagull wrote:wires are
red ( i have power )
black / red > to fuel pump
purple with silver dot > to ecu
Cheers :beer
Your wire colours are different than mine, that might be because the european version is different, but mine has 4 wires. I think you got to check that. What year is your engine?
[Edited on 23-6-2005 by subaruboxer]
subaruboxer ·
Seagull,
your fuel pump relay is missing one plus (+) wire, it got to have ignition+ and permanent+ . If that is said wrong again,
it does not matter. I hope you understand what I am talking about. You need a wiring diagram!
seagull ·
cheers Mate , I had the wiring done in the over east as I could not find a diagram for a 96 ej20 N/A motor , the ecu has three plugs .
thanks again for the above I give that a go tonight .
jvl054 ·
Hey seagull,Check relays.Deffently does not sound like a earth problem.IF you have power check pumps are working. Also check ignition switch.After all this checking,if you have more than one relay swap them around and see what happens.JVLRacing😉
I found if I ran power to the green wire on the brown relay the motor started and then stoped , just a fire
seagull ·
I did a check on the earths they are working , just no latching of the relays .
Col if your can I would gladly buy you a beer to have a look at this please .
seagull ·
I had the motor light up 3 flashes then 9 fast flashes , I need to find out what these are telling me
seagull ·
this is the side that the lid comes off the ecu
seagull ·
shot of the other plugs at rear
seagull ·
top of ecu
Kombicol ·
I also made a post on this yesterday, aw well, here i go again.
The fact you got a fire by putting a hot wire on the relay suggests the ignition wiring is not hooked up correctly.
go to the relay pack, and follow the light green wire back to the diode, it will be a small black plastic thing taped up in the loom, kinda like a connector. it will have a yellow wire in and a green wire out.
hook your hot wire up the the yellow wire, and tell us the results.
Col
btw
There is no code 31 in the manuals I have, so this could be a JDM or later model specific code.
ratbug ·
Code 31 is the throttle position sensor (open or short circuited)
seagull ·
ok , I am back to the shed to find the above
seagull ·
Col , I have followed the green wire from the brown relay >there is no plug or diode on the green wire is goes straight to the ecu ( shown as number 9 ) on the fist photo of the ecu .I can not see a cut in the wire .
I must say I am lost :beer
seagull ·
hey guys , what if the ecu had a remote type key start from factory ? would this stoping it or would the removal of the starter and mods to the wires get around this .
seagull ·
is there any way of finding out what the ecu is by the numbers marked on top as per my photo ? ( import front cut )
if the auto ecu is removed can the motor ecu still be started ? ie may be the motor ecu thinks it in drive and will not start 🙂
I must be fighting the VW god in my shed some how telling me not to go to the dark side :vader
Kombicol ·
Hmm guess the late model import jobs are done differently
This doesn't help you any, but this one of the main reasons I pulled out my EJ20 and replaced it with and EJ22. They are far easier to get parts and bits and pieces, knowledge and acurate diagrams are easily available.
you know there was an EJ22 with loom and ecu in the quokka couple of weeks back for 1200..., could still be available.
and all your adaptor exhaust etc will fit + more torque..
Col
ratbug ·
The auto factor will be fine, mine came out of an auto as well, just cut off the wires going to the auto controller .Another thing i forgot to mention is you should hook up the fat red/yellow wire to your starter motor solenoid so the ecu knows your trying to start the engine. I never did this at first, the engine runs fine without doing it, however it took 5-10seconds of cranking for it to fire. All the relays and that still came on though withot it so don't think this is your problem.nn[ Edited on 30-6-2005 by ratbug ]
Kombicol ·
hey ratbug,
did you happen to find the correct model wiring diagram for your engine?
Col
seagull ·
Thanks Col , I know who has the motor in the paper .
I could not find a ej22 in perth two years ago , just no one had one complete.
I have a diagram for the ecu comming via fax , just hope its the correct one from over seas .
Ratbug I have a look at my set up .
cheers again guys 🙂 seagull
ratbug ·
hey ratbug,
did you happen to find the correct model wiring diagram for your engine?
Col
Yeah after looking at a load of diagrams I downloaded off the net and nothing matching up, i found the diagrams in the haynes liberty workshop manual were about 95% correct to what i had in front of me.
seagull ·
I pulled the key start switch apart tonight , there is a very small reed switch in the barrel !!!! now what do you think this does ( ? )
I think when the barrel ( key starter ) is assembled the reed switch is in a closed state alowing the earth ground to be made .Removing the key starter ( barrel )
from the system (ie some prick busting the barrel apart and trying to nick your ride) in turn may of made some part of the ecu not trigger or latch .
Hope the diagrams that are on the fax at work are match my ecu and I can get this to work .
I be drinking to that :beer
jvl054 ·
Seagull,i did mention about the igniton earlier.Replace the barrel.If fuel pumps are working,relays,and motor kicking over then stalling.Then you are on the right path!JVLRacing
Dero ·
Seagull I may have something that might help you... do you still require the wiring diagram, I have to check when I get home to night. I got a Workshop manual on CD from a mate, for all Impreza's i believe....
seagull ·
Gday Dero , the diagram that I have is not clear , I can see the imobilizer section but can not read it , what a bummer .If you have some thing would be great .can you load it here or via a link , may be some one can do it .
thanks for your help , seagull
seagull ·
I am still lost to whay I can not get the motor run , did get the wiring diagram but not clear due to fax , bummer
Dero ·
The workshop manual is 86M.... hmmm you probably want a copy actually. Ill send a U2U . Pick it up some time next week.
Its got pretty much everything youd wanna know a about a subaru Impreza 2002 covers engine 1.6, 2.0 non turbo, 2.0 turbo etc...nn[ Edited on 3/7/2005 by Dero ]
subaruboxer ·
Hi Seagull,
I am not a computer guy and tried for days to get the diagram smaller and still keep big enough to read properly.
Did not get it done, here it is now in 3 pieces.
subaruboxer ·
Second piece.
subaruboxer ·
Third.
seagull ·
Cheers Dero I give you a call
Subaru boxer ,, thanks for the above > the ecu I have would apear to have a factory imobilizer fitted ( kills some thing in the ecu ) The key for the car has a butten ?? now I dont no if the was to start the car or doors >lock unlock .
The ign barrle has a fancy switch to kill some thing if the guts of the barrle was removed .
The legacy > japan spec is very hard to find on the net with regards to wiring diagrams , I have been looking for days .
A few questions that may help me
does the red / yel inhibtor switch as above need to have power ? I dont have this conected at all no relay .
did your front cut have a press butten type starter key ?
thanks again seagullnn[ Edited on 3-7-2005 by seagull ]
subaruboxer ·
Seagull,
I think the switch in the legacy ´s key has nothing to do with your problems. I´d say it is a remote locking system for the doors or a alarm system.
And the inhibitor switch is for Automatic Transmission A/T only. M/T is Manual Transmission. I think you don´t need it.
I think the red/yellow wire you refer to should be hooked up to the start circuit, not hot in acc as shown
i think the clutch/inhibitor switches in the diagram are to ensure the car does not start in neutral,
i think this is the same wire ratbug had not connected on his which prevented his from starting correctly - Ratbug?
seagull ·
Hi Col , thanks for that I check that out , I have been surching the web for a week now and can not find the same as what I have , dam shame I can not get her to start , will have to find some one to have a look what may be wrong .
cheers seagull
Jenny ·
3 long flashes and 9 short flashes would indicate error code 39, but there is no error code 39. I would do an ECU reset (green connectors) and try reading the codes again (black connectors).
If your wiring matches up with the diagram posted then you are missing a yellow wire from your ignition run/start circuit going to that fuel pump relay connecter, like Subaruboxer said, there should be 4 wires.
pete wood ·
can you tell me what the motor is out of? Liberty or Impreza? I have a wiring diagram for around that era, but it's for a liberties (that includes outbacks).
gull ·
Peter its from a legacy import from 94 to 96 , I purchased a front cut , it had a 4x4 gear box .
Thanks Peter
O I am on a work , had problems with my seagull log on .
seagull ·
sorry guys I could not log on today from work as seagull
back as seagull now .
Thanks for your post jenny , one of the problems I have is my ecu has three plugs ( see photos a few pages back )
I have connected a wire yellow to power ( run ), still no fuel pump comes on ?
I tryed the reset , , but get 39 again ? now I am very very lost
seagull 🙁
should any one out there have a wiring diagram for a 3 plug ecu around the date of 1994 please fax it to
08 94453240
cheers seagull nn[ Edited on 12-7-2005 by seagull ]
ratbug ·
I think the red/yellow wire you refer to should be hooked up to the start circuit, not hot in acc as shown
i think the clutch/inhibitor switches in the diagram are to ensure the car does not start in neutral,
i think this is the same wire ratbug had not connected on his which prevented his from starting correctly - Ratbug?
Sorry guys, havn't been able to access the forum for a while. Yeah by leaving the red/yel wire disconnected it made it a little hard to start when cold, and sometimes gave me an error (start signal error). And yes I hooked it up to the start circuit not the ACC as shown, but it could work in ACC but not sure.
My ECU has the three yellow plugs.
seagull ·
Just thinking out loud here guys ( so I dont go nuts )
My fuel pump relay will not come on when key is turned on ?
does the ecu need power 24>7 ( all the time )
just got me stuffed why the fuel pump will not come on ( ! ) man I would like to cry
and your going to go nuts when you see what this motor is in
cheers seagull
boof2332 ·
How are your fuel pumps powered. You have a relay which should have ignition power to one side, and earth trigger to switch the relay comes from the computer, turning on the pumps.
The power will be coming to the relay from the initial ignition relay, which you use to power accessories such as fans, stereos!
Check to see you arnt trying to let the computer give the power..it usually is the earth(for the trigger only) and even if it has a power trigger, all it is is the trigger as the main power comes from the ignition relay regardless.
This may be commonsense, it took me a while to work out that the computer doesnt have enough power to run an engine, so give everything battery power(via ignition relay) and then all the computer has to do is either earth it, or switch the power via another relay.
Does this make sense?
Jenny ·
Seagull,
The EJ22 manual for '90-'94 models (downloaded from http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 ) at section 2-7 as stacks of great information on the fuel injection system for these motors.
"... The ECU receives a signal emitted from the crank angle sensor and turns the fuel pump relay ON or OFF to control fuel pump operation. To improve safety, the fuel pump will stop if the engine stalls with the ignition switch ON.." the ECU does te switching by providing the eart to the fuel pump relay coil.
You have confirmed that the fuel pump works OK.
Take the fuel pump relay out of it's holder and count the number of pins it has. If it has 4 then there sould be 4 wires going to the relay connector. Your poto only showed 3... Go through the checks for the fuel pump circuit on pages 56 & 57 of section 2-7 to see where the problem is.
nn[ Edited on 15-7-2005 by Jenny ]
VWCOOL ·
I am not sure about the Subie ECU - despite having wired one up this week - but most ECUs DO need 12V 100% of the time. This allows the unit to set IAC for start etc on previous shutdown AFTER the ign has been turned off... which is also why the Subie needs the fat yellow/red (?) wire to be connected to starter solenoid. It works like the choke in an old carby car!
seagull ·
yes have that yellow red wire , I am going to have a look at choppers notch to day , its a turbo but may be some thing I am missing .
jvl054 ·
boof2332 wrote:How are your fuel pumps powered. You have a relay which should have ignition power to one side, and earth trigger to switch the relay comes from the computer, turning on the pumps.
The power will be coming to the relay from the initial ignition relay, which you use to power accessories such as fans, stereos!
Check to see you arnt trying to let the computer give the power..it usually is the earth(for the trigger only) and even if it has a power trigger, all it is is the trigger as the main power comes from the ignition relay regardless.
This may be commonsense, it took me a while to work out that the computer doesnt have enough power to run an engine, so give everything battery power(via ignition relay) and then all the computer has to do is either earth it, or switch the power via another relay.
Does this make sense?
:thumbYep mention the problem before ignition to relay is wher problem stands.Thanks Matt yours is better said!!!!JVLRacing
seagull ·
The relay that was missing a wire I ran one to it from power .
Now when the key is on ( power to this silver relay ) the fuel pump will not come on .
I have tested the pump it works fine .
I have power at the brown relay , just no turning on the fuel pump
does the check light power up at this point ?? I dont have that on
cheers seagull
jvl054 ·
seagull wrote:The relay that was missing a wire I ran one to it from power .
Now when the key is on ( power to this silver relay ) the fuel pump will not come on .
I have tested the pump it works fine .
I have power at the brown relay , just no turning on the fuel pump
does the check light power up at this point ?? I dont have that on
cheers seagull
you have u2u coming JVLRacing
seagull ·
Yes thank You John
seagull ·
Braking news >>>> subaruboxer has found me a wiring diagram , the page he has sent me looks to be correct as per my pin outs , hope to soon have this machine running .
I would like to say a big thank you to Jorg for his time in hunting down a diagram & taking the time to translate the words to english for me :thumb
seagull
jvl054 ·
Let us know how it goes!!!!:thumbJVLRacing
boof2332 ·
Are we happy????
Do we need a hug????
Been there, and it causes sleep depravation.
Matt
seagull ·
Man are we happy
Do we ned a hug , Mate I give just about any thing a hug should I ( we ) get this machine to go
sleep >>>>> your not wrong there
have some emails comming though from subaruboxer , he has done a great job with the conversion to english .
seagull
speedster356 ·
I can't find a fault code 39????
I think you need to check that one again Neil.
Do you have voltage between the ECU and ground for a start?
Measure the voltage between the ECU connector terminal and the body when cranking the engine.
(that's B127) No-10 to the body, you should have 9 - 10 Volts min.
nn[ Edited on 16-7-2005 by speedster356 ]
Baja Wes ·
Seagull, when it stops, is the fuel pump still running?
ie, is it stalling because the fuel pump stops...
or is it stalling because something is cutting the ignition...
does it still stall if you try to hold the throttle open?
Have you tried wiring the fuel pump straight to the battery and seeing if it starts?
are you sure the fuel pump is pumping the correctly flow and pressure when connected to the battery?
If you have a problem such as a restriction in the fuel line, it will build pressure as you turn it on, but as soon as the injectors open and let some fuel out the pressure drops and the fuel pump can't keep up - causing it to stall again.
the next thing to do is purposely cause an error code. unplug something the engine needs and checks immediately (some things only get check and logged as the engine is running, such as 02 sensors). Any solenoids (idle control or carbon cannister purge etc) are generally check immediately in diagnostic mode. Also ensure what ever you unplug you know the error code for. Then check the error code with the engine check light and make sure it matches what you've unplugged. This should tell you that at least the error codes are being shown properly, and that you are reading them properly.
seagull ·
Cheers Wes
I have a wiring diagram ( very close to what I have )
Wes I can not get it to run full stop no power at the injectors when the key is on no ecu light comes on .
I have checked the diagram to what I have ( ecu ) its so close , but some wires are not the same , I can not see how some could go in the plug as the blad is not the same size ( have not been changed )
The main problem I have is no matter what I try the main brown relay will not come on IE > latch the silver fuel pump relay from the ecu on start.then start the fuel pump and send power to the injectors .
Now if I run a power wire to the green wire on the brown relay and run an earth to the purple wire on the silver relay the motor starts for a few seconds then stops , there is still pressure in the fuel line , and power at the injectors and ecu .
I think I tryed just about all I can at this point , ideas now guys .
I need to find out why I can not get the ecu to do any thing ie start the fuel pump .
cheers seagull :jesus
My fuel pump pressure is 35 psi at the injectors > is this to heigh ??? I am using a VL holden pump with a return to tank .
seagull ·
ARRRRRRRRRR , well I just when out to the shed with a crown larger to have a good cry >
looking at the ecu diagram I seen a yellow wire that was to power ? I have a power connected all ready ?
so what the hell is this ?????? > connected the yellow wire hit the key fuel pump come on ?? 3 seconds off ?? looks good me think , hit the key , my GOD its alive !! bugger me its running now in the shed
will see for how long , back soon seagull :kiss
jvl054 ·
:bounce:rudolf:beer:thumb:P:sandrineJVLRacing
MickH ·
🤓:thumb:thumb
seagull ·
So far its starts first hit of the key now .
My rpm signal wire is not doing anything this may be the wrong wire > i do not have a diagram for this one ???
I will get some more run time after work tomorrow and try to sort the rpm wire out .
I would like to say a big thank you again to Subaruboxer ( Jorg ) .With out his help in driving down to the subaru dealer in Germany and asking for a copy of the wiring diagram , then convert it to english I would not have got the ecu fired up at all .
To all others thanks for your imput and assistance , seagull Neil
h ·
whoo hoo thats good news!!! :thumb
boof2332 ·
Nice work Neil, told you that relay was the key.
Really glad she works...sometimes seems like it never will.
Matt😵
seagull ·
Matt , I was almost ready to throw the towel in I can tell you .
I had no chance to find it as it would appear the the guy who did the revamp of the wiring for me in the east had removed it .I think he may of thought it came from the subaru auto ( as it did ) BUT it when to the relay as well .
thanks for you time on the phone today Matt , seagull neil
speedster356 ·
Great stuff Neil. Was it the Crown Larger that did it?
:beer
VWCOOL ·
beer fixes everything!
Doug Sweetman ·
Everybody have a Beer for Seagull !!!! hooray !!!
good stuff mate. Bet it sounds nice with you custom stainless exhaust 🙂
seagull ·
yes and its still running !
Jenny ·
That's great news!!
Just make sure you modify your wiring diagram to match what you have now for future reference.
seagull ·
yes will do Jenny .
Well I was trying to work out my RPM set up last night , started the motor had it just ticking over all very good , gave it a rev and the three bolts holding the converter snapped !
I shit my self with a racket it made !
So pulled the motor out, flex plate damaged in the three bolts holes .I looked for the problem and found the bolts for the flex plate were grade 4 ?? what the hell are these ? These should be 8.8 or 12.9 .I also did some checking and found they were also 2 mm to long and hiting the bottom of the lugs on the converter .
So now in more shit than the first settlers trying to get hold of a flex plate to put back together again .
It never ends , seagull
jvl054 ·
To much:beer:PIts all trial an error.JVLRacing
Baja Wes ·
with bolts you have imperial grades, like grade 5, grade 8, etc.
Then metric you have property classes like 4.6, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 etc
They are quite different, and as with other imperial things they don't make sense. Like imperial grade 5 is roughly the same as metric 8.8.
But the metric grades roughly make sense. The first part of the number is roughly the tensile strength in hundreds of MPa and the second number is the proportion of that tensile strength to find the yield strength.
So 4.6 is ~400MPa tensile strength with 400x0.6 = 240Mpa yeild strength. So that pretty crap and is like something you buy at the hard-ware.
It's a huge difference to 8.8 with is ~800MPa tensile and 640MPa yeild strength. Or 10.9 = 1000 & 900MPa.
So it's pretty obvious why they were simply sheared off. You need to pay attention to your bolts 🙂
pete wood ·
:cry dude I know your pain.
seagull ·
more to the piont Wes they were shiny so being a SEAGULL I picked them up , now have it all back in and sounds good , no bang ( yet )
I need a flex plate for atype three auto if any one has one , please give a yell .
seagull ·
Guys is the a page on how to reset the stock ecu with the plugs , and a listing of fault codes ?
like what ones to put together first .
should the fault light stay on all the time ? not flashing just on ?
I sill have this red light on the dash > plug the black plugs in , 3 short flashes followed by 9 long flashes & no I have not been driking or smoking any thing .
Lost again !
may be I should drink some thing , may find the problem again 🙂
seagull ·
I am still not able to get the VDO RPM gauge to work , ideas ?
boof2332 ·
Welcome to my world....wiring problems, motor in and out 3 times this week with the new clutch(sorted..thanks Mike), and my VDO tach is still not working either.....some have no problems or hurdles(wipe that stupid smile off your face Rizzo) and others clip every one...
I can hear the purists....."you wouldnt have had those problems if you had stuck with vw motor"
Although I wouldnt have 200+hp at the wheels either.
Not far now Neil, ride the waves out and the car gods will have to smile on our next projects.
Matt
seagull ·
Its not like you dont read the instructions layed out before you !
I had the day just making sure the wire from the ecu were just right , it would apear that just one wire from the ecu can not run a VDO unit , I have the dip switches correct , just dont work >>>>> mind you , I dont think I will have time to look at it on this ride Matt 🙂 Its going to trip some people right out !
comming very soon The MISTRESS
ratbug ·
Hey Neil, the easiest way to clear the codes as described in the book is to disconnect the battery for 30seconds. With the engine light problem, bit of a stab in the dark, but maybe the light is on when it should be off, and off when it should be on? in which case you could be reading say 49 (counting the space as well). Maybe the other side of the light is hooked up to ground, instead of 12v ignition?
seagull ·
I have a look, cheers
choppa ·
Mmm very interesting saga.
Better than all my MIlls and Boons!
Check your diagram Neil.
My memory is pretty scetchy on all this.
I seem to remeber the engine check light needs power positive from both sides. That is from the battery and from the ECU. So when it gets power from the ecu it goes out. But when there is a problem the power from the ECU side goes to earth and the light flashes on.
Does this sound right to any electrical ppl out there?
subaruboxer ·
choppa wrote:Mmm very interesting saga.
Better than all my MIlls and Boons!
Check your diagram Neil.
My memory is pretty scetchy on all this.
I seem to remeber the engine check light needs power positive from both sides. That is from the battery and from the ECU. So when it gets power from the ecu it goes out. But when there is a problem the power from the ECU side goes to earth and the light flashes on.
Does this sound right to any electrical ppl out there?
Hi choppa,
no, does not sound right! The light goes off when the ecu switches earth off! The ecu wire is earth!
Jörg
nn[ Edited on 24-7-2005 by subaruboxer ]nn[ Edited on 24-7-2005 by subaruboxer ]
seagull ·
Choppa , I have started a book on this !
The motor sounds Sweeeeet , need to sort the 39 problem out
Another night ahead like this >:jesus
VWCOOL ·
Are yoiu driving this thing yet Seagull? do you have a Vehicle Speed Sensor? I get a light everytime I back off the throttle (say downhill in 2nd gear) and coast... In Holdens that means VSS is inactive and I assume it's the same for the Subie. I haven't interpreted the code yet... have had other more important problems to sort such as the turbo/intecooler pipe blowing off - pSSSShtttTT - and a dud water pump...
seagull ·
You must be spying on me ? yes it has one > I have been looking all night for the VSS thingO in my shed , it might be at work ? I will need to look .
No not driving it yet , I have a few thing to put on before it goes for a run down the street , its taken two years to get to the stage I am at now .
I think you guys are going to be in shock when you see the Mistress for the first time , not long now I hope , just need to find what code 39 is ( may be no Vss signal ??
helbus ·
Code 33 is meant to be VSS signal problem. Yeah?
VWCOOL ·
seagull wrote:You must be spying on me ? yes it has one > I have been looking all night for the VSS thingO in my shed , it might be at work ? I will need to look .
No not driving it yet , I have a few thing to put on before it goes for a run down the street , its taken two years to get to the stage I am at now .
I think you guys are going to be in shock when you see the Mistress for the first time , not long now I hope , just need to find what code 39 is ( may be no Vss signal ??
It won't display a VSS fault code unless you are driving it and certain conditions are met: eg for Holdens it is engine above 1500rpm, throttle closed with high manifold vacuum (ie these 'conditions' are throttle over-run with the car slowing down), coolant beyond 60C etc. It's kinda like a self-check
Sorry, I don't know what a Subie VSS code is
pete wood ·
seagull wrote:I am still not able to get the VDO RPM gauge to work , ideas ?
My motors running funny , its runs up in rpm then drops in rpm , makes a purging sound, like sucking air from the air intake . I think the valve on the right hand side of the motor ( looking from the rear ) is doing this . ? is this some thing to do with the temp of the motor ,or electrical ??
cheers seagullnn[ Edited on 30-7-2005 by seagull ]
pete wood ·
Can you explain it again, I don't quite understand.
Jenny ·
Have yo tried reading the engine codes again as Barls said in the other post it might actually be error codes 30 and 9 instead of 39?
seagull ·
HI Jenny , I found my wire to light ( may ) have been in the wrong pin out , the light is flashing now two times ?? I will check what you are saying .
my ecu pinouts at one end match the diagram at the other its the mirror image just dam crazy .I am going now to have a cry in the shed
my problems to date as follows
No RPM on my VDO gauge , have been on it most of the day , tryed the diodes no good , tryed another wire with diodes no good , made sure diodes correct way around ( bar facing gauge ) as per diagram no good .not working ( cry ) made sure the dip switches we correct as per a 4cyl motor . may be its related to this .>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Motor idle up and down : motor runs up and down on idle > my wiring diagram is not correct on this one as far as I can make out , but have found the yellow and red wire from the coil is connected to the idle control valve , this is not factory as it has a hella conection the guy that did the wiring in the east did this .
ideas from here 🥲
subaruboxer ·
Motor idle up and down : motor runs up and down on idle > my wiring diagram is not correct on this one as far as I can make out , but have found the yellow and red wire from the coil is connected to the idle control valve , this is not factory as it has a hella conection the guy that did the wiring in the east did this .
ideas from here
Hi Neil,
checked the wiring diagram I send you, the Yellow/red from the coil is ignition power and the yellow/red from the idle control valve is a5 at the ecu. But you know the diagram could be wrong.
Jörg
seagull ·
The conector ( plug at rear of motor ) has one missing wire .I would say the guy that did the wiring cut has removed the wire ( ? ) then he conected the yellow and red from the coil ( power ) The ecu does the switching at this point , so why he did that I will never know unless ( h ) asks him why .
The A5 has a wire in it Jorg so I need to ask rat bug to see were the wire for the idle valve is on his ecu as it ( may) be the same .I hope .
seagull
seagull ·
The stress is killing me ! I have now come to a stop
ratbug ·
I just had a bit of a look, i Dont have a yellow/red wire to the ecu, it looks as though the yellow/red wire comes off the main relay and then goes to a few little things like the idle valve (and according to the diagrams also the oxygen sensor etc). I'm not sure if having this yellow/red wire to the ignition coil source would make much of a difference as it'd be only powered when the ignition is on, like what it'd be doing if its hooked up to the coil power..
Just wondering if your oxygen sensor gets warm with the ignition on? as its power looks to be the same sourxce as the idle valve.
Just thought of another thing, you havnt altered or blocked the little coolant lines running to the idle valve have you? it uses it to sense the coolant temp and to idle-up when cold.
Just had another look over the diagrams from subaruboxer (very good diagrams by the way), and its got the coil wire as being mostly yellow, then it goes to this yellow/red wire from the engine connector to the coil connector (which isnt the same yellow/red wire for the idle valve), BUT i dont remember this on mine, i *think* it was yellow all the way. Then it goes to the fuel pump relay which you were having trouble with. Maybe theres still something funny going on?
seagull ·
cheers for the reply
I will check the above points .
seagull ·
I had just about given up with my stock ecu , untill tonight .
I whent to perth based Tony Flood service center , on the shelf he had a 1994 subaru service book with a three yellow plug ecu .
so far I have found three wiring faults > time will tell as I go through the pin outs .
seagull
ratbug ·
Sonds good... I will be tkaing my engine and loom out this weekend hopefully, if you have the time, maybe you can express post me your loom and i'll compare the two?
seagull ·
Thank for the offer .I had found the pin out C10 was to power full time , it needs starter feed only .I think just to keep going through my ecu and I will find more .
Thanks for the help , it all about learning and doing your head in on monster projects .
VWCOOL ·
... just keep thinking of the $5000 some people reckon you'd have to spend on an aftermarket computer, wiring, sensors, tuning, troubleshooting... all the stuff you already have in the stock ECU!
It is a head-f*k, but keep going with it, one wire at a time... you will eventually get there
speedster356 ·
Sounds like your just about there Neil. Hold off on the aftremarket, you won't be dissapointed with the stock ECU for your application I'm sure.
seagull ·
Thanks guys 🙂 Yes the stock ecu would be just fine for my use .
flat_iv ·
Did you figure out what the problem was? I have a 95 EJ22 that idles 2000 rpms and then drops to 600 rpm's. And then cycles over again.
boof2332 ·
The idle up motor on the right is a one way valve that basically gives an air leak when cold. The thing is controlled by water temp running through it. It comes apart..have a look make sure it is not sticking...then pull one off the other 3 engines and swap it, and plug it in.. if the fault is still present then look at wiring.
Mine is blocked off and not used...just turn the idle screw a turn.
Arent you supposed to be here neil!!!!!!
Matt
malcolm ·
seagullget rid ofthe subie ecu and get a Autronic or Motec👍 20% better power.
boof2332 ·
Bingo!
Come on neil, you would have someone over there who could get one for $185 if you buy 5. Thats seemingly how all your bargains look.
Matt
VWCOOL ·
malcolm wrote:seagullget rid ofthe subie ecu and get a Autronic or Motec👍 20% better power.
Yeah, what a top idea! 🙅 About as sophisticated as an abacus compared to the stock ECU, will cost you $2000 to tune and technically illegal on the street
[ Edited on 25-8-2006 by VWCOOL ]
malcolm ·
Autronic ,SMC $1640 all up with wiring loom and a program to run the engine ,vwcool you better tell the group a guys to put their orignal ecu,s back in their cars:P and buy a chipup grade.
VWCOOL ·
malcolm wrote:Autronic ,SMC $1640 all up with wiring loom and a program to run the engine ,vwcool you better tell the group a guys to put their orignal ecu,s back in their cars:P and buy a chipup grade.
' a program to run the engine' lol... Right.
[ Edited on 25-8-2006 by VWCOOL ]
pete wood ·
malcolm wrote:Autronic ,SMC $1640 all up with wiring loom and a program to run the engine ,vwcool you better tell the group a guys to put their orignal ecu,s back in their cars:P and buy a chipup grade.
Sorry but I'm with VWCool, Standard ECU wins everytime unless you are turning up the boost or building a completely mental na motor. Otherwise what is the gain? Some of the most talented engineering minds spent literally thousand of hours of R&D making the motor run smooth and reliable, and you decide to reinvent the wheel coz you're too lasy to sort out the loom? WHY?
And besides all that, factory ECUs are cheaper. My replacement ECU was an import jobby and it was still less than half the price of the cheapest aftermarket ECU 2 weeks ago. I plugged it in and shazzaamm!!! The motor started and ran straight away. No stuffing around on a dyno.
Persevere Neal, it's worth the trouble.
malcolm ·
vwcool when I bought my first Autronic ecu it came with a program to run the engine then I used dyno time to do the final tune and the car was engineered with the ecu and it has the flexabillity for furture upgrades .if I make a comment on something its because I,ve been down that path before.
you should do research before you comment on others😉
sorry seagull for getting off topic:thumb
[ Edited on 25-8-2006 by malcolm ]
pete wood ·
and you live in...VICTORIA.
Aftermarket ECUs are illegal up here in NSW. 🙁
Look I'm sure Autronics are good, but they can't compare to a stock ECU on a stock motor. That's what we have here.
malcolm ·
pete I had that car engineered 7+ years ago it was a supercharged nissan vg30 det in a e28 5 seires ,in vic now no aftermarket ecu,s on late model engines.