who runs external oil coolers?

wnat some tech advice.

who runs an external oil cooler on an upright motor?
what size motor you got?
how is it connecting to your motor?
do you run a thermo fan or jsut straight cooler?
how much have you found it effective?

If you don't need one, don't fit one. They are just another bit that can go wrong

you know thats right.
hmmm maybe let me think...

yeah, thats right... I'M NOT RUNNING STOCK!

why would you ask if you were stock ?dont need it, do they.


anybody else?

twoguns wrote:you know thats right.
hmmm maybe let me think...

yeah, thats right... I'M NOT RUNNING STOCK!

why would you ask if you were stock ?dont need it, do they.


anybody else?

Huh?

easy cool. go back and look at my questions and then evaluate your answer... 😵

Err... I didn't ask if you were stock. I said if you don't need one don't fit one - stock or not. And if you really need one, why ask?!

Just trying to find out your needs, I guess

Maybe I should have said: How do you know you need a cooler?nn[ Edited on 7-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]

sorry mate, but i am thinking it must be a bit late for you.😉

no you didnt ask if i was stock, you didnt ask if i wasnt. and we both really know that a stock motor and set up shouldnt need additional cooling, so therefor why would i be asking the questions if i was stock? 🙅

maybe you jsut ran off the response previous.

i am asking who has fitted an external cooler on an upright engine? ie a T1.

what size? obviously it wouldnt be 1600. maybe 1776, 1835, 1916 or even a 2110

what type? how effective.

i know i need a cooler ( or find a solution to remain cooler) as i am running a bigger motor in a 62 split, designed to run a pissie little 1200. but it dont no more. and if i am giving it heaps it gets hot. i am looking for details...nn[ Edited on 7/7/2005 by twoguns ]

Late? Er, no

What temps are you seeing?
I've never played with Kombi cooling myself, but I've known of a few with big VW donks that are happy at 100+ all day, even with a trailer on. All engine seals etc in place? No power pulleys... must have richer-than-Beetle jetting... Standard gearing... if you have a T1 engine a T4 cooler might help...

I would only go external oil cooler after i knew that the stock cooling system was PERFECT. It is alot more reliable and safer not having an external oil cooler, if a hose pops off then there goes ya engine... Been heaps of posts on what you can do to make ya engine run cooler. But if your pushing it too hard with too much grunt then maybe its what you should do....

I run a warmed over 1776, with about 9:1 compression. larger cam, and twin dells. i did fit an external oil cooler, (tapped into the case). the engine runs very cool around town in winter (i cover the cooler to make the engine hotter). On teh track in summer it runs just on 105 degree's after about 5mins and stays there........

thanks bix...

I did the Kombi cooler on my 1835 & my father had one on his 1776. We didn't notice any difference on the street or track , in either summer or winter. It was alot of effort modifying the fanhousings for no result. I then eventually bought a RX7 oil cooler & mounted it longways above the gearbox. I then went overboard & mounted 2 Kombi demister fans sucking air through the cooler. I also have some ducting up the cooler. I had to take the ducts off in the winter as the oil couldn't get hot enough. In the summer it would only get to 90d sitting on 120kph on the Freeway, & I could run the car on the track flat out for 15 minutes without it going over 100d, sometimes less & the motor grew to 2275cc. I didn't tap the case for the cooler, instead i used an inlet / oulet oil pump cover. I was told that these were no good but I had in on my car for about 4 years. I also covered the oil lines with Thermo tech oil & petrol line wrap as the lines ran close to the exhaust.
Hope this helps u.
regards
Jak
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/126813.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/126815.jpgnn[ Edited on 8-7-2005 by Jak Rizzo ]

thats what i was think Jak. thanks for the feed back

this pump i was thinking...

thanksnn[ Edited on 8/7/2005 by twoguns ]

External oil coolers are a must if using a good FAT MOTOR. oil coolers preserve the oil longer so we are not burning the solids all goodness from the oil.If burning the oil to quick oil becomes watery ....eg.tapping noises,moving parts begin to wear.External oil coolers are also great holding that little more fresh oil which brings back threw the motor.(Stock no need...Performance a must)................Twoguns thers some pics from Valla car show of my Orange Racecar that will give you some idea of Aircraft fittings so you wont loose a oil line.............Oil Coolers are made for a reason & not for looks.:thumbJVLRacing

jvl... you got a link at all.

twoguns wrote:jvl... you got a link at all.

Give me your email,ill send some pics (u2u me)JVLRacing

Jak Rizzo wrote:I did the Kombi cooler on my 1835 & my father had one on his 1776. We didn't notice any difference on the street or track , in either summer or winter. It was alot of effort modifying the fanhousings for no result. I then eventually bought a RX7 oil cooler & mounted it longways above the gearbox. I then went overboard & mounted 2 Kombi demister fans sucking air through the cooler. I also have some ducting up the cooler. I had to take the ducts off in the winter as the oil couldn't get hot enough. In the summer it would only get to 90d sitting on 120kph on the Freeway, & I could run the car on the track flat out for 15 minutes without it going over 100d, sometimes less & the motor grew to 2275cc. I didn't tap the case for the cooler, instead i used an inlet / oulet oil pump cover. I was told that these were no good but I had in on my car for about 4 years. I also covered the oil lines with Thermo tech oil & petrol line wrap as the lines ran close to the exhaust.
Hope this helps u.
regards
Jak
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/126813.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/126815.jpgnn[ Edited on 8-7-2005 by Jak Rizzo ]

Yep, disregarding the effort involved in fitting it, the Typ4 cooler conversion seems to be loved by some and not by others: Extra air 'bleed' from the fan housing via the oil cooler allows better cooling via the oil cooler, but - to put it simply - leaves less air available to cool the engine. An external oil cooler - if testing has shown you need it - gets around this by placing the heat 'load' of the cooler outside the standard cooling system. Increasing the fan speed can increase the heat shedding ability of the 'stock' system.

Twoguns, I can now assume you already know this, but the reason I asked about gearing is due to the fact that taller gearing (as with IRS box conversions etc in Kombis) spins the cooling fan slower for a certain road speed

i dont understand the theory with an irs box and a T1 modified engine. they would be the exact same ratio option, paired together whether in a kombi or a beetle?? after all it is a beetle box and a beetle engine, no?

twoguns wrote:i dont understand the theory with an irs box and a T1 modified engine. they would be the exact same ratio option, paired together whether in a kombi or a beetle?? after all it is a beetle box and a beetle engine, no?

Yes, but which one is working harder? 😉

thats true.

Two guns, lets make the decision a little simpler. What is your oil temp running at now?, is it for extended periods of time?. If it's getting over 100d for long periods of time then regardless of what external cooler u use & where u place it the oil will run cooler, not only are u allowing the engine oil to have a an 'escape' from the enigne for a while, u will increase the capacity. My RX7 oil cooler & the associatted lines gave me another litre of oil, that along with the Pobjoy sump which holds another cup full the system worked great. Get one of those oil pumps, get an oil cooler & u will be sweet.
Good luck mate.
regards
Jak

when i was running my 1835 in the uk i had a few heat problems and ended up fitting a 15 band pass cooler mounted up under the passanger side guard. From that moment on i had no heat problems even with the long drives at high speeds. in fitting a cooler u have more oil to run around the engine which basic logic states must be a better thing as the oil plays a big part in the cooling of aircooled dubs..... I also had a 1776 in my kombi and i had a cooler with thermo fan mounted on the left hand side and that worked a treat as i would do 300+ miles each weekend to go surfing......

All depending on your engine size it will depend if a cooler is needed and what size... personaly i think and have seen the benafits of having one so i will be fitting one to my street car when i finish it.....

steff......nn[ Edited on 8-7-2005 by DubCrazy ]

On my F-Vee, I run an external cooler plumbed after the full flow filter and remove the stock cooler altogether to prevent shrouding of the airflow on that side of the engine.
The engine will top 110 deg C on a warm day after 10 laps of Baskerville with the engine belly shroud/fairing (whatever) on, but the temp is held around 85 to 90 with the external cooler fitted.

To get past the drama of too-cooled oil in winter here in Tassie, I simply use an oil cooler thermostat.
No pissfarting around with tape, cardboard or whatever else used to cover 'coolers.

I find it preposterous that some would consider an external oil cooler "something else to go wrong"
Please!
l8tr
E

tassupervee wrote:On my F-Vee, I run an external cooler plumbed after the full flow filter and remove the stock cooler altogether to prevent shrouding of the airflow on that side of the engine.
The engine will top 110 deg C on a warm day after 10 laps of Baskerville with the engine belly shroud/fairing (whatever) on, but the temp is held around 85 to 90 with the external cooler fitted.

To get past the drama of too-cooled oil in winter here in Tassie, I simply use an oil cooler thermostat.
No pissfarting around with tape, cardboard or whatever else used to cover 'coolers.

I find it preposterous that some would consider an external oil cooler "something else to go wrong"
Please!
l8tr
E

[Well said Tass," something else to go wrong":oJVLRacing

a thermostat? are u nuts Tass, thats another thing that could go wrong, your a brave man...........
regards
Jak

What's the flaw with an oil thermostat?. Do they fail?, and if so do they fail in the open or closed position?

well tahts the thought i am wondering E. do i do awway witht he modified cooler i have on the shroud, and go a full external unit. it jsut seems in my lowered split that i can not keep it running hard on the freeway. i can fly along and jsut watch the temp slowly rise, till i am approaching 120, then thats it i slow to about 90 and cruise. on a nice cold day or cool evening or then i can sit at 130 odd and the temp wont break 105.

At 100km+ Run an external cooler with thermo fan with thermo switch. keep the cooler as close to the engine as sensible ie in the LH battery tray posi. have the system in an open circuit from oil pump to cooler to gallery. maintain your stock cooler for relief valve issues. Consider oil thermos switch pre cooler/filter.ala bernie bergman.
Or go cheaper 'oldskool' and run an adapter from upright cooler posi to cooler/fan set up.
And a flat styled oil sump extender.
Ever considered mounting an oil pressure switch on the cooler with a secondary warning light in the cockpit. It would have to give some peice of mind about a costly oil slick due to a failed connection.. Just a suggestion.

Jak Rizzo wrote:a thermostat? are u nuts Tass, thats another thing that could go wrong, your a brave man...........
regards
Jak

Jak, you are a bonehead!!!!!:thumb

Barenyisbeetle, thermostat failures?
The oil thermostats cannot block oil flow in event of a failure.
They simply direct oil one way or the other in whatever position poppet was at the time of failure.

Its worth knowing that more engine abuse goes on with oil not hot enough than running too hot.
Do some research.

L8tr
Enn[ Edited on 9/7/05 by tassupervee ]

A fool proof mechanical device, cool.
So in the event that it doesn't direct the flow to the cooler all will be good? Thats whats I was wondering. I know that the poppet or valve is not prone to fail due to its solid design however..
When you start by-passing the engines life blood you must consider failure points. aside from couplings hoses and the lesser consern of thermo fan switch or motor,its the gate way to keeping the temp down..so Is something to consider. for persons looking for answers.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm

Thermostats etc...

Apart from te maxi pump thingy, http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECO0039&cartid= Not cheap, but how much do you love your engine eh !!

I have run a 2110 in a '55 beetle with a T4 cooler conversion with no heat issues.

tassupervee wrote:"something else to go wrong"
Please!
l8tr
E

p..Pp.P Preposterous...
Hose clamps pop due to high oil pressure when revved from cold
Lines get pinched/kinked
Lines wear through causing sump to pump dry
Coolers under mudguards get speared by rocks
Oil pressure drop and engines wrecked due to lines being too long
No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler
Engine wrecked due to shrapnel/swarf in brand new oil cooler


The theory is great, but the practise is not always as good. I seen all this happen...:puke

[ keep the cooler as close to the engine as sensible ie in the LH battery tray posi.

Ahh dude i don't know if i read this right but if you were to put the oil cooler in the engine bay that would be a major waste of time cool air comes in gets turned into hot air then gets sucked into the motor as hot air remember cool air in the engine bay hot air out

VWCOOL wrote:

tassupervee wrote:"something else to go wrong"
Please!
l8tr
E

p..Pp.P Preposterous...
Hose clamps pop due to high oil pressure when revved from cold
Lines get pinched/kinked
Lines wear through causing sump to pump dry
Coolers under mudguards get speared by rocks
Oil pressure drop and engines wrecked due to lines being too long
No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler
Engine wrecked due to shrapnel/swarf in brand new oil cooler


The theory is great, but the practise is not always as good. I seen all this happen...:puke

Run braided lines and An fittings, buy a fan forced oil cooler, build a shroud around it with a fresh air feed. Run a pump that will feed the system you are using. Pressure flush cooler before use, or at start up run a filter before and after cooler, then revert back to before only. Theres your problems solved.
Its about the design and thought that goes into it before hand, not having a failure and saying it doesnt work. nn[ Edited on 9-7-2005 by AdrianH ]

of course things like that can go wrong, but if u think about what u are doing & plan it correctly, any modification can last for many years untouched without any failures.

It's like saying, "I better not get out of bed today"
cause,
I could get hit by a bus
A bird could poo on my head
I might eat an infected mars bar..........

Just do it Twoguns, you'll be fine. Just keep the stock doghouse cooler as well.
regards
Jak

The LH battery tray posi could be like so; Cooler positioned over vents in that spot with push through fan(same direction as vw engine cooling) or oil cooler on the underside of tray spot through a hole or vents then ducted up to the the rear set of intake vents.on the aussie split Post 65.
You know like a chimeney?. Heat rising.
Theroretically you'd be recycling hot air and minimal amounts of exhaust. though you would have spent a weekend creating ducting from aluminium sheet rivits and sickaflex in order to vent cooling air up and being assisted by a couple of computer fans. I dont think blocking off one bank or even half of one bank of ducts would starve the engine. My understanding is that the principle for ventilation in the Kombi when moving is the same as the air fuel chamber above the throttle body on a turbo set up,with a reserve of air in the engine cavity in this case the fan drawing on demand. The idea of the duct is to remove as much the induction/ingress of hot air into the engine cavity and in turn back over the hot block. If the cooler is on the underside although more in harms way,Its intake hoses are better in line with oil pump and galleries. less turns etc. No way will I put it under the vehicle. Especially on a lowered kombi like 2guns'es'es. Its just another thing to worry about. Its ballsy enough being a human bumper bar up front.

p..Pp.P Preposterous...
Hose clamps pop due to high oil pressure when revved from cold
Lines get pinched/kinked
Lines wear through causing sump to pump dry
Coolers under mudguards get speared by rocks
Oil pressure drop and engines wrecked due to lines being too long
No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler
Engine wrecked due to shrapnel/swarf in brand new oil cooler


The theory is great, but the practise is not always as good. I seen all this happen...:puke [/quote]

Pfftt
If you have seen all this happen then you have seen some of the worst preparation, installation and maintenance possible.
There is an old saying dude, "you cant educate f***wits" and obviously these are the kinds that have suffered engine failures as a direct result of a dodgey oil cooler installation.

Obviously, these examples are the result of shoddy installation, poor plannning and straight out stupidity and lack of observation of a red warning light.
I'd go as far as say they may have deserved their failures.

Fancy locating a relatively fragile oil cooler under a mudguard....subject to grit, stones and sticks being thrown around under there......Would you place your radiator there in a watercooled car? yeah sure!

Pinched, kinked, too long and holes worn in oil lines......there were serious, serious issues with the original installation in these installations, mostly of the soft penis kind.
If the original installation had been planned and carried out correctly in the first place then there is bugger all possibility of damage to the oil lines or significant oil pressure drop.

Blowing off lines when cold?? How high does the oil pressure goe when cold then?? What, 10, 20 even 25PSI above hot sound feasible?
The lines would have blown off by themselves eventually anyway due to faulty installation or incorrect lines or fittings.

The problem of lack of airflow over an external cooler at slow speeds is a complete no-brainer and the matter has been dealt with many many times on the forum.

Im not even going to comment on crap in a new cooler other than he got what he deserved for cutting corners.

Cmon dude, there are a legion of happy and reliable external oil cooler jockeys running around for year after year and their engine are alive and well and their oil is healthy and happy. You have been subjected to the very worst of scenarios as a result of lack of knowledge, ability, planning or a combination of by the original installers.
If they were amatures, then they should have sought professional advice before embarking on such a...... technically challenging task, if they were "experts" then they are idiots, simple!

Good lord, oil coolers under the guards....bwaaahahahahahaha that deserves an engine bang!! :vader
L8tr
E

The position im suggesting is beyond the guard.The Lh battery position. And by the way Expert, or near to. Do you have any useful suggestions in regards to the location of external oil coolers. Where do you you run yours?, bearing in mind the back Half of your car is Missing in Your Avatar. Plenty of wind there.

twoguns to answer your original question,i have currently 6 splitties onwners with a fool proof reliable external oil cooling system.engine sizes vary between 1776-1835-2180..all have a various compression ratios..all are dual carbed.Each engine runs a stk oil pump [30mm] with a gene berg pump cover with a relief valve[helps avoid oil fitting blowoffs]all have a remote filter under the lh batteryfloor which is protected from stones and easy to service,all use a inline oil thermostat [i've used for over 20years] mounted near the lh torsion housingwith oil cooler grade hose running to behind the front axle..a mercedes transmissiom cooler which is wide and thin sits on a simple bracket with a good air supply,it is also very well protected in this region from stones and has'nt affected ground clearence..all these kombis run at 80degrees normal city traffic and when given the boot and cruise at 110-120kmph[all irs and lowered] hover around 90-105 degrees...have personally travelled 10s thousands of k's with this set up without a hicup..yes a bus does work a little harder than a bug therefore oil temp is relative..purley a wind resistance issue.all still retain the std dog house coolers and a type 4 cooler upgrade is a bigger plus ...all buses use std pulley configeration..hope this info leads you into the right decision for your requirements..remember this is a tried /driven and proven result on splitty buses. cheers dsk steve

hey steve.

would you have any pics mate, please.

thanks

Blowing off lines when cold?? How high does the oil pressure goe when cold then?? What, 10, 20 even 25PSI above hot sound feasible?

I got a pressure gauge on a T fitting where the pressure switch is on a stock type4 and at start up it reads 70-80psi and at idle when at running temp about 20-25psi and upto 50-60psi at higher rpm at running temp ---- 20-50w oilnn[ Edited on 10-7-2005 by 76camper ]

I have one of steves setups, have travelled 10,000ks in the last 10 weeks, twice to sydney and not missed a beat, cant get the temp hot at all...looking forward to summer for her real test...and the cooler cost $20 from pick and payless...

tassupervee wrote:p..Pp.P Preposterous...
Hose clamps pop due to high oil pressure when revved from cold
Lines get pinched/kinked
Lines wear through causing sump to pump dry
Coolers under mudguards get speared by rocks
Oil pressure drop and engines wrecked due to lines being too long
No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler
Engine wrecked due to shrapnel/swarf in brand new oil cooler


The theory is great, but the practise is not always as good. I seen all this happen...:puke

Pfftt
If you have seen all this happen then you have seen some of the worst preparation, installation and maintenance possible.
There is an old saying dude, "you cant educate f***wits" and obviously these are the kinds that have suffered engine failures as a direct result of a dodgey oil cooler installation.

Obviously, these examples are the result of shoddy installation, poor plannning and straight out stupidity and lack of observation of a red warning light.
I'd go as far as say they may have deserved their failures.

Fancy locating a relatively fragile oil cooler under a mudguard....subject to grit, stones and sticks being thrown around under there......Would you place your radiator there in a watercooled car? yeah sure!

Pinched, kinked, too long and holes worn in oil lines......there were serious, serious issues with the original installation in these installations, mostly of the soft penis kind.
If the original installation had been planned and carried out correctly in the first place then there is bugger all possibility of damage to the oil lines or significant oil pressure drop.

Blowing off lines when cold?? How high does the oil pressure goe when cold then?? What, 10, 20 even 25PSI above hot sound feasible?
The lines would have blown off by themselves eventually anyway due to faulty installation or incorrect lines or fittings.

The problem of lack of airflow over an external cooler at slow speeds is a complete no-brainer and the matter has been dealt with many many times on the forum.

Im not even going to comment on crap in a new cooler other than he got what he deserved for cutting corners.

Cmon dude, there are a legion of happy and reliable external oil cooler jockeys running around for year after year and their engine are alive and well and their oil is healthy and happy. You have been subjected to the very worst of scenarios as a result of lack of knowledge, ability, planning or a combination of by the original installers.
If they were amatures, then they should have sought professional advice before embarking on such a...... technically challenging task, if they were "experts" then they are idiots, simple!

Good lord, oil coolers under the guards....bwaaahahahahahaha that deserves an engine bang!! :vader
L8tr
E [/quote]Tass,you have said it all.Even to think to put a oil cooler under a mud guard....must be fu..ing drunk.Hose clamps on oil lines!!! :oJVLRacing

Who would suggest putting a cooler under a mudguard?

Dunno M8 but to place a cooler there is rather foolish. The clown that put it there suffered the consequences! Vroooomm......bang!
Heheheheheheh! sucker!
L8tr
E

First page it was mention about cooler under gaurd!:oJVLRacingnn[ Edited on 11/7/2005 by jvl054 ]

hasnt this turned into fun... 😵‍💫

tassupervee wrote:p..Pp.P Preposterous...
Hose clamps pop due to high oil pressure when revved from cold
Lines get pinched/kinked
Lines wear through causing sump to pump dry
Coolers under mudguards get speared by rocks
Oil pressure drop and engines wrecked due to lines being too long
No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler
Engine wrecked due to shrapnel/swarf in brand new oil cooler


The theory is great, but the practise is not always as good. I seen all this happen...:puke

Pfftt
If you have seen all this happen then you have seen some of the worst preparation, installation and maintenance possible. [/quote]

Yep, errr, that's my point... :jesus . Ironically, I saw each and every one of these things happen at racetracks, not on road cars... dude.

So, if you really need an oil cooler, learn from these mistakes...nn[ Edited on 11-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]nn[ Edited on 11-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]

mount it on the rear firewall.Use a berg ext cooler with attached electric thermo fan they work the shit.chill lads they are only cars ....

VWCOOL wrote:

tassupervee wrote:No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler

Yep, errr, that's my point... :jesus . Ironically, I saw each and every one of these things happen at racetracks, not on road cars... dude.

So, if you really need an oil cooler, learn from these mistakes...nn[ Edited on 11-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]nn[ Edited on 11-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]

U really saw slow speeds/traffic on a race track?
Jak

Hey Kustomkool is that Kat in your avatar sucking on Porsche Polar silver and Runnin like a flat four minus oil?

I agree that a thermostat is a really good idea I got sick of the creeping up creeping up oil temp on trips & have now (about two years) have a remote oil filter & a good cooler mounted flat between two of the chassis rails about at the rear of the sliding dor & can happily drive any speed I want (can get to) even on hot days & valve clearances also do not need anything like the adjustments they used too
the oil does take a lot longer to warm up though, so I use 5W-40 HPR5 & will be getting a thermostat

911 Porkers run the cooler under the guard

My 1200 pulls 70= psi at start up and 30 at hot idle

I run a in/out pump + spin on filter + oil cooler (from a datto skyline)

I have hose clamp fitting on at the moment but i will switch to Earls fitting as soon as I pull my finger out and get around to it

Murph wrote:911 Porkers run the cooler under the guard

My 1200 pulls 70= psi at start up and 30 at hot idle

I run a in/out pump + spin on filter + oil cooler (from a datto skyline)

I have hose clamp fitting on at the moment but i will switch to Earls fitting as soon as I pull my finger out and get around to it

Good idea to change those hose clamps sooner than later!!!:thumbJVLRacing

Jak Rizzo wrote:

VWCOOL wrote:

tassupervee wrote:No oil cooling at slow speeds/traffic with external-only cooler

Yep, errr, that's my point... :jesus . Ironically, I saw each and every one of these things happen at racetracks, not on road cars... dude.

So, if you really need an oil cooler, learn from these mistakes...nn[ Edited on 11-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]nn[ Edited on 11-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]

U really saw slow speeds/traffic on a race track?
Jak

What a useful post!

1 to 1000, your in front:thumb

great info guys as ill be doing the same as 2 guns in the near future, funny how my post didnt attract as much hostility (humour)

Twoguns I use an 8 pass cooler mounted in the nose of my buggy along with a high flow oil pump and filtre. With this setup I can rev the fork outa my 1776 all day long in first gear in the sand and the oil temp wont pass 90 deg. With the long hoses to the front off the buggy along with the cooler/filtre I fit another 1.5 litres off oil in my system and running 50-60 psi off oil pressure have never had a blown line or even a drop of oil. Fit the cooler mate, but two bits of advice- keep the oil lines and cooler inline with the engine as much as possible or you will have to root around alot when its time to do an oil change, and get in the habbit of starting your vw a good 5-10 minutes before setting off cause they take a LOT longer to warm up.

barenyisbeetle wrote:Hey Kustomkool is that Kat in your avatar sucking on Porsche Polar silver and Runnin like a flat four minus oil?

Nah he just saw the price of an berg external cooler ....