I going to get an aftermarket ecu for my new ej20 quad cam , so whats out there now days
speedster pete has a microtec and tells me that was a good and easy fit . ( this would be my fist option )
just would like to know who has fitted another type of system to there ride .
Desert Moose ·
Have a look at MicroTech, not that bad on price and so easy to wire even you could do it seagull...lol
seagull ·
I have no problems with my wiring > I just need a diagram to go by .
I will never ever get a stock ecu done again in my life .its a wast of time & $ :cry
71superbug ·
hehe,.
are the haltech's compatible wth the subie donks?
Anthony 🥷
VWCOOL ·
seagull wrote:I have no problems with my wiring > I just need a diagram to go by .
I will never ever get a stock ecu done again in my life .its a wast of time & $ :cry
You have had a bad experience. Looking at the big picture, OE is the easiest and best way to set-up... if it has been done (wiring modifications etc) properly. Yours, as evidenced by your current situation, unfortunately hasn't
Despite my fear, I had Subie OE harness and PCM in the car and running in about an hour. It was supplied by someone who apprently has lots of experiecne with transplants
For 'aftermarket' try a modified Delco from a Holden...it is quite cheap, quite sophisticated engine control and can be made 'programmable' and you have one of the country's best tuners over there - Daniel at Chipmaster in Malaga(?)
Having said that, you don't need to re-invent the wheel and spend days going thry catalogs checking pin-outs and sensor voltage compatibility, so get advice from soemeon who has done it before - boof2332 or speedster pete...nn[ Edited on 14-8-2005 by VWCOOL ]
lugnuts ·
These are aussie companys,Advanced Engine Management Systems,Airpowersystems,Autronic,Haltech,Microtech,Motec and u can add Link to that its a kiwi company sold through MRT,have fun researching seagull 😀
1303 ·
I've been researching this for months and I reckon it all comes doen to what you want to spend.
Alot of the manufacturers are very clever in stating what their features are. eg When I read "Boost Control" I think Pulse Width Modulated Frequency Output to control a solenoid and tuned keep a stable pre set boost value.
Most of the cheaper units (around $1000) advertise boost control but it is nothing more than a fuel cut that stops the injectors when the boost exceeds the set level.......hardly controling the boost in my mind.
I think for the most features for your dollar it would be hard to go past an EMS 8860, up to 4 pulse width modulated out puts (ei enables the real deal in boost control), 4 analogue outputs, anti lag (proper anti lag not just miss firing of cylinders), 4 inputs, and a huge tuning grid.
The EMS costs around $500 more than the cheaper units but when you think about it if you bought a cheaper unit and then a stand alone Electronic Boost Control ( E Boost etc) you would be way over the $1500 mark anyway.
My 2c worth.
Cheers Paul.
jvl054 ·
1303 wrote:I've been researching this for months and I reckon it all comes doen to what you want to spend.
Alot of the manufacturers are very clever in stating what their features are. eg When I read "Boost Control" I think Pulse Width Modulated Frequency Output to control a solenoid and tuned keep a stable pre set boost value.
Most of the cheaper units (around $1000) advertise boost control but it is nothing more than a fuel cut that stops the injectors when the boost exceeds the set level.......hardly controling the boost in my mind.
I think for the most features for your dollar it would be hard to go past an EMS 8860, up to 4 pulse width modulated out puts (ei enables the real deal in boost control), 4 analogue outputs, anti lag (proper anti lag not just miss firing of cylinders), 4 inputs, and a huge tuning grid.
The EMS costs around $500 more than the cheaper units but when you think about it if you bought a cheaper unit and then a stand alone Electronic Boost Control ( E Boost etc) you would be way over the $1500 mark anyway.
My 2c worth.
Cheers Paul.
One step infront of you Paul!...Deal-set and done.JVLRacing:thumb
silverbullet ·
I am using the new haltec e6x good system for money in my subaru conversion. Lots of options and easy to install and use. There is also the haltec e11 which has even more options, but as always the price goes up.
boof2332 ·
My next one will be the EMS...like Paul.
Matt
seagull ·
Thanks for the input guys .
Jenny ·
AEM sell the Wolf 3D (mid priced) and they have maps for most Subaru configurations so you should be able to plug it in then drive to the workshop for fine tuning.
EFI Hardware sells the Hawk (low budget).
Jeza ·
It could be worth talking to the local tuning specialists and seeing what they are happy working on... otherwise you may get a little stuck when it comes time to fiddle with the maps?
Andy42 ·
I am going to run a motec M800. Seems to be very tunable and I know a couple of guys with them in rally cars and they love em. Not the cheapest on the market though.
rubyred ·
dont forget about Megasquirt. the most affordable efi setup i know of...
jvl054 ·
Andy42 wrote:I am going to run a motec M800. Seems to be very tunable and I know a couple of guys with them in rally cars and they love em. Not the cheapest on the market though.
A Very Very good computer.But ther are afew nipping at the heels of Motec......But still the best for 110% tunning.To set one of these up proper $5000 min.JVLRacing
bat69 ·
I ran a motec on my suby rally car a few years back and it was fantastic for the rally application. My question to you would be what do you want to do with the car? If you want to go and compete at the front of the field in a rally or race state championship, then spend the extra $$ and get an ecu with all the bits. i.e. antilag etc. If you just want to drive it to and from work and the strip ever now and then, go for a cheaper ecu that will be just as reliable.nn[ Edited on 17/8/2005 by bat69 ]
Andy42 ·
For me I want to be able to get the most torque i possibly can at the lowest revs with the least lag. i have seen just how tunable and what can be achieved with the motec in a rally evo 7 and it is excelent. The standard computer has no chance to compete but yes they are a bit expensive. It does look as if I will get a very good deal for it fitted and dyno tuned simply because I have a friend who is very good mates with a person who is well known for his excelence with this product.
ratbug ·
Hey Neil, your nt giving up are you??? Seriously, let me know if you get one, as i'm looking a getting one after i put the new gearbox in so could possibly do them together.
Anyone know what advantages the aftermarket computer will bring over the stock ecu? i'm currently getting about 80hp at the wheels (ej20 quad cam n/a stock ecu, modified loom). This sound right? Been told jap ej20 quad cams should do 100-110kw factory?
ratbug ·
For me I want to be able to get the most torque i possibly can at the lowest revs with the least lag.
Me too, i find when i put the foot down at low revs, the engine bogs down a bit, sturggles to accelerate up the dunes in 2nd (the big tyres and currentl beetle box isn't helping either). I'm hoping to get more torque down low.
Jenny ·
Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
VWCOOL ·
Jenny wrote:Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
Easy. The gearbox and diff (driveline) soaks it up
Jenny ·
So if Ratbag is only getting about 80HP at the rear wheels then there is something wrong?
ratbug ·
Yeah well i expected it to be more than 80, but the dyno operator said its about what he'd expect for a 2l n/a 4cyl. I dunno.
Jeza ·
VWCOOL wrote:
Jenny wrote:Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
Easy. The gearbox and diff (driveline) soaks it up
How much would you expect a VW driveline to soak up? 30% seems a lot.
I know the Subaru 4wd driveline soaks up a lot, but the VW system is really simple.
Cheers
Jeremy
jvl054 ·
Jeza wrote:
VWCOOL wrote:
Jenny wrote:Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
Easy. The gearbox and diff (driveline) soaks it up
How much would you expect a VW driveline to soak up? 30% seems a lot.
I know the Subaru 4wd driveline soaks up a lot, but the VW system is really simple.
Cheers
Jeremy
30%no way!Subaru yes,with the amount of moving parts to operate the wheels...Vw around a lost of 8 to 10% if any more than that i would look seriouly... looking at my drive train.:oJVLRacing
tassupervee ·
FWIW
I use a Microtech MT-8 on my Nissan Fj20et (turbo) powered ute and an older EMS T1-4 on my wifes Nissan pulsar ET turbo.
These are both ignition and fuel ECU's
Apart from the entirely different tuning methods, they both work well enough and drive sweetly as daily runners and shopping trolleys.
The cold start is controlled a bit finer (more temp points) on the Microtech.
I do prefer the EMS tuning method tho, altho its quite confusing at first.
Even tho the EMS is an older ECU, the improvement in driveability and economy over the stock EFI was spectacular!
These are both about 1100 dollar ECU's (dyno tuning extra, usually around $500) which puts them at the lower end of the money scale but for my mine, they have both proven to be quite good.
L8tr
E
seagull ·
I am going to do a short run at the dyno when I get my machine ( MISTRESS ) on the road , just to what I have in power to weight .
If I am correct I will have close to 580kg all up ( dry weight no fuel )
I am telling you will be triping when you see this thing !
tassupervee ·
[/quote]30%no way!Subaru yes,with the amount of moving parts to operate the wheels...Vw around a lost of 8 to 10% if any more than that i would look seriouly... looking at my drive train.:oJVLRacing [/quote]
Actually very way!
The VW transaxle is surprisingly good at soaking up power and converting it to heat.
A good Formula Vee 1200 engine produces about 65 HP at the fly and translates to about 45HP at the wheels.
Even after a short 6 lap race in the cold here in Tassie, the trans case is remarkably hot.
We fill the transmissions with auto trans fluid rather than gear oil in an effort to reduce frictional looses due to the heavier gear oli.
L8tr
E
jvl054 ·
tassupervee wrote:
30%no way!Subaru yes,with the amount of moving parts to operate the wheels...Vw around a lost of 8 to 10% if any more than that i would look seriouly... looking at my drive train.:oJVLRacing [/quote]
Actually very way!
The VW transaxle is surprisingly good at soaking up power and converting it to heat.
A good Formula Vee 1200 engine produces about 65 HP at the fly and translates to about 45HP at the wheels.
Even after a short 6 lap race in the cold here in Tassie, the trans case is remarkably hot.
We fill the transmissions with auto trans fluid rather than gear oil in an effort to reduce frictional looses due to the heavier gear oli.
L8tr
E [/quote]Standard motor and gearbox yes.... not performance motor and gearboxes......(45.5hps is 30% from 65fwhp)...JVLRacing
fozee ·
Seagull,
I have decided to use a Wolf 3D V4 on my 1UZFE conversion.
The reasons why are based about practicality:
a - The nearest and most established tuner(Mildren Race Engineering) work with MoTec and Wolf.
(They recommend Wolf for the budget orientated modifier)
b - Only want the ECU for daily driving, odd run down the strip and possibly handle FI in the future.
c - Great value for money. Harness, ECU, hand controller, air + water temp sensors and shit for $1400.
Anyone else interested in a group buy of these units let me know, we will see if we can get a better price.
rubyred ·
you can have standalone fuel and spark for cheaper than the price of an OEM ecu and harness with megasquirt.
-Ryan
tassupervee ·
yer correct but most dudes are not really boned up enough to go down that particular road and start from absolute scratch with programmeable ECU's
Im considering doing one for my turbo 1600....one day!
L8tr
E
rubyred ·
tassupervee wrote:yer correct but most dudes are not really boned up enough to go down that particular road and start from absolute scratch with programmeable ECU's
Im considering doing one for my turbo 1600....one day!
L8tr
E
its not that hard. if a 19yr old can do it, anyone can.
-Ryan
tassupervee ·
Oh come on M8 dont be so unrealistic.
There are 40 YO guys out there who are unable to change a set of points.
Being 19 has got nothing to do with it.
L8tr
E
seagull ·
Fozee , I think you have made a smart move , in saying this my mate got a microtec for a 305 chev new for $1040.00 hand controler for $140.00 , tins included the wiring as well , less the injector clips .
dyno time $100.00 .
I will go this way as a mate has done quite a few he can wire a car it the time it takes two guys to drink a carton of crown larger and a packet of corn chips .
The Wolf has come a long way , with some very good right ups I have just read about .
I will have to get a few shots of the jet boat with the toyota in it for you .
Did you get an auto with your motor ?
cheers seagull
rubyred ·
they dont have to know how to change points if they go to megasquirt n edis :P
i was originally going to use the oem ecu, but theres no way that wiring that mess up is easier than wiring up megasquirt or any standalone.
-Ryan
fozee ·
I will have to get a few shots of the jet boat with the toyota in it for you .
Did you get an auto with your motor ?
cheers seagull
I just decided yesterday, after talking to another tuner(1UZFE experience), to get the MicroTech LT-8 unit. It is the cheaper option which suits my budget.
'Debiasi Auto Repair' is doing my conversion and found an '89 auto for me. I had CBB rebuild it and change the line pressures and stall. Debiasi will begin stripping out the old 2ltr and trans this coming week.
Then it will be onto 'Fours and More' for Exhaust, Electricals and Tuning.
I will give the engine a breathe of life with a set of custome extractors.(The originals make me want to cry)
Have already began thinking of Forced Induction.
In one frame of mind im looking for pure reliability.
In the other im thinking Forced Induction to get the bus in to the low 13's.....
Unfortunately my limited funds will have the final say.nn[ Edited on 18-9-2005 by fozee ]