tonights monkey puzzle. Want to remove the steering wheel and the bracket assembly underneath ... without having to figure it out the hard way.
thanks
crewcabconnection ·
Aussieveedubbers · Tech Talk
removing a split bus steering wheel
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/43094/removing-a-split-bus-steering-wheel
crewcabconnection ·
bump
pyr0 ·
we just ran into the same problem, we've taken the bit nut off from the middle but the steering wheel wont budge 🙁
t2 ·
the shaft has a taper on it with a woodruff key, you should use a wheel puller or bearing puller if not you can give it a bash but you will most likely damage the steering wheel
pyr0 ·
thanks mate :thumb :beer
dragbug ·
Yeah,
Grab a puller,
I dont mean ya mate either,
Needs a bit of oompff with the right tool.
Failing that....Got a brill 9" angle grinder you can borrow...
Grab a puller,
I dont mean ya mate either,
Needs a bit of oompff with the right tool.
Failing that....Got a brill 9" angle grinder you can borrow...
frog ·
Yes they suck.
Do you want to keep the wheel?
I ended up making a puller tool from a piece of thick flat steel which fits under between the bottom of the wheel with a section cut out for the steering collum and using the top half of a wheel puller.
Soak over night with wd40.
The flat metal will protect the plastic.
Do you want to keep the wheel?
I ended up making a puller tool from a piece of thick flat steel which fits under between the bottom of the wheel with a section cut out for the steering collum and using the top half of a wheel puller.
Soak over night with wd40.
The flat metal will protect the plastic.
crewcabconnection ·
In case anyone wants to know....
The advice has been - the nut is a bitch to remove. Needs a puller and heat from an oxy to encourage it to come off. Not really intended to come off easily. The problem is that without heating it and using a puller, there is a serious chance that the column will bet stuffed. Option B - grind it off or remove it completely and use a later column - this too has issues I was informed. Managed to get a 'boss' that will fit the original one off a Saas wheel - turns out these are hard to get too. So gonna leave it to the shop to remove it after it's painted, too risky without the puller and just the right amount of heat.
Thanks for the replys....
The advice has been - the nut is a bitch to remove. Needs a puller and heat from an oxy to encourage it to come off. Not really intended to come off easily. The problem is that without heating it and using a puller, there is a serious chance that the column will bet stuffed. Option B - grind it off or remove it completely and use a later column - this too has issues I was informed. Managed to get a 'boss' that will fit the original one off a Saas wheel - turns out these are hard to get too. So gonna leave it to the shop to remove it after it's painted, too risky without the puller and just the right amount of heat.
Thanks for the replys....
57 Chook Shed ·
It`s just the luck of the draw really.
Some come easy, some don`t budge, it`s steering wheel law really!
My split and the one I pulled the ivory steering wheel and column from came off easy!
my old `57 was a bitch and so is my Bay Crewcab. The wheel on my Crewcab is knackered, it`s down to the metal all around the horn button but I can`t bloody shift it!!
Gra.
Some come easy, some don`t budge, it`s steering wheel law really!
My split and the one I pulled the ivory steering wheel and column from came off easy!
my old `57 was a bitch and so is my Bay Crewcab. The wheel on my Crewcab is knackered, it`s down to the metal all around the horn button but I can`t bloody shift it!!
Gra.
pete wood ·
I'd suggest you start hitting it with WD40. Just a tiny squirt once a day for a week or two. Then give it a try. Try tightening it just a fraction to crack the grip and then bring it back. Hit it with some more squirty. Let it sit and then try again. Squirty is amazing stuff. You just need to to give it time to work.