I’ve decided that here in Engine Conversions is the best location for my project. Here is an abbreviated story to get you all up to date.
This was my first post as 71EJVan. Some of you will know me as GL1972 (Green German Look Super with 2110 and 17s). That car was originally bought to do up for my daughter's first car but I got carried away. Well I have decided to honour my commitment to her so I will be changing it by installing steel wheels and a standard 1600 twin port motor (she'll have the coolest car in school!). The motor is currently up for sale in the spare parts forum if anyone is interested in looking.
The project I have decided to do for myself will be a 1971 Bay Panel Van with a Subaru EJ20T conversion (another one to the dark and wet side!), rear disc brake conversion and total sleeper look. I purchased the van and brought it home in late August It is quite solid but needs some TLC.
The idea of a van is to get to the beach without having to tie my boards on the roof and also have some go to raise some eyebrows at the lights..... Surf and Swoosh!
The will be no metallic paint or plush interior going anywhere near this Van. Waterproof ply and carpet for lining.
22/08/2005
Finally got it home yesterday after a 215 klm round trip.
Its quite solid and straight however there is some rust to fix in the front floor, under the battery and the left A pillar.
Love the lowlight look. I must have been ok at tieing it on..never moved an inch.
What everyone's garage should look like!
24/08/2005
Well I have a motor! EJ20T WRX with only 70,000Ks good compression on all 4 pots. Came with ECU, Loom and Intercooler. I may even hook up the AC at a later date. It arrives Saturday.
Bodywork starts this weekend with the removal of all non paintable bits (lights indicators etc).
Removed bumpers, grilles, lights, indicators. Pulled engine and fuel tank. Pulled back wiring (this will be shortened back to a junction point near the ECU and new loom for connection). Removed sound deadening in engine bay.
29/08/2005
Bringing the WRX motor home. Note the envious look on the bug parked behind the trailer!
The old and the new!
Fuel tank removed also, ready to start modifying to fit the EJ20T. (modifying sounds better than cutting).
[ Edited on 13-12-2005 by 71EJVan ]
[ Edited on 27-4-2006 by 71EJVan ]
[ Edited on 29-5-2006 by 71EJVan ]
[ Edited on 25-8-2006 by 71EJVan ]
[ Edited on 4-9-2006 by 71EJVan ]
[ Edited on 8-1-2007 by 71EJVan ]
71EJVan ·
I looked up a ratio calculator and with the 215/45/17 wheels I was going to install it would be super fast in the lower gears but rev too high for my liking at 110/120 kmh. Works out a lot better with 60 series tyres (don't know how available they are in 17 inch though). Would be worth changing the R&P at a latter date.
Changed my mind on all this and decided to look for a 091 box. Will also fit some 15 or 16 inch steel wheels also.
01/09/2005
Well I've got hold of a 091 gearbox. Exchange plus cash.
Decided to go with a 200mm flywheel and buy a Kennedy off the shelf clutch 1700 or 2100lbs.
I will stay with the old 002 belhousing and starter so that I can use the 200mm off the shelf clutch. This will also mean that I could throw this engine in a dub if I desire without too much cost.
Made a list of all parts including steel and ally sheeting I will need to complete the job. Woah! lots of bits. I will post it here for criticism on the weekend.
02/09/2005
I'll try posting this long list. Still some things to add.
08/09/2005
Picked up the 091 gearbox a couple of days ago. On changing the bell housing I inspected the crown wheel. No real discernable wear marks on the teeth and very little play. Looks in good condition. My 002 was in good condition also, would have made a great addition to an offroader with big wheels.
Picked up all the steel for the cross member, fuel tank enclosure and radiator mounts. Took a list down to Metalcorp which included all the small cut lengths, came to $86 cut (who would use a hacksaw for those prices!!)
Also picked up a alloy core sealed unit radiator with twin thermatic fans for the right price.
All the metal is now cut out of the back of the Kombi to fit the engine (most of the engine seal apron and fuel tank shelf is now gone. Cleaned and painted the area ready for installation.
Engine is now cleaned ready for test fitting.
[ Edited on 13-12-2005 by 71EJVan ]
71EJVan ·
12/09/2005
Cleaned out the cargo area and found that the previous Signwritter owner was not too worried about spilling paint everywhere under the chipboard. She's had a hard life and has carried some serious weight over the years.
Picked up a near new alluminium core radiator complete with fans for $180 shhhh it’s a Deawoo Leganza unit!.
Steel to make the new engine cross member, radiator mounts and fuel tank, battery and ECU/wiring enclosure. I still have got to submit a drawing of the cross member to my Engineer for approval before starting to build it.
Will be picking up new intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, injector to manifold seals and rear main seal from Ryde Subaru this week. Easy guys to deal with. Want to make sure there is no air or oil leaks when I install this engine. Also as it is a MY95 engine the seals may have gone hard.
Have to also go back to engine supplier to pick up the Mass Air Flow Sensor that was missing. Jeremy from Tweakit was apologetic and rang back with 30 minutes to say that he had it there. Will pick up a air to water intercooler and circulating pump this week from SSS.
12/09/2005
A man and his grinder! This is me building the enclosure and mounts for the fuel tank and battery relocation and ECU and wiring. The unit will be aluminium or tin lined and also have space for a surge tank, pumps and even a jack and wheel brace. This will get a lot of weight forward and lower. Should assist in the handling.
[ Edited on 13-12-2005 by 71EJVan ]
71EJVan ·
13/09/2005
The main cross member that mounts between the chassis rails and picks up the Subaru engine mounts and will also have a support attaching to the lower 4 gearbox bel housing bolts. Was going to make a brace between the shock mount towers above the bel housing and create a tranny strap but this would foul the intercooler
27/09/2005
I finally got approval from my engineer for the cross member design and the adaptor kit turned up. The main framework for the tank enclosure is mostly made. Cut out for the engine hatch (big access!). Fitted the adaptor plate after a small amount of trimming and mated the gearbox. Fitted the old front mount to the 091 box and trimmed the studs as they fouled the torsion housing. Sat the engine/box in place and bolted up the front mount. Chocked the back for level and centre (checked this many times).
On the weekend I made a big timber adjustable cross member. Set it in place and set angles whilst checking for clearance. Transferred these angles and all my other measurements to the concrete floor. The next job was to cut all the steel to match the angles drawn and started welding. After a couple of test fits the cross member is almost complete.
Here is some pictures of the progress.
Motor and box in place with front mount bolted up. Plenty of room in there without the tank.
Another view showing intercooler clearance and space around engine.
Fuel tank framework almost complete. Just need to weld in tank and battery supports.
Dummy timber adjustable cross member used to work out angles.
Took an extra day off for the long weekend intending to put some serious hours in on the van. Fortunately (or unfortunately) got some surfing in but didn't get everything finished.
The cross member is now complete and the radiator mount is halfway there.
Here is the completed cross member. It picks up the existing WRX engine mounts and also has a frame to connect to the 4 bottom bel housing to gearbox bolts via 2 rubber mounts. The tabs on the sides and the 25x25mm sections will bolt up to the original cross member hangers at the back of the engine bay. This will assist in reducing any twist at the bottom of the frame under acceleration. You can also see in the picture the transferred measurements on the floor.
Here is the cross member plans for those interested in welding and grinding until they hate Tim The Toolman Taylor. The cross member is fitted in front of the tappet covers by 30mm.
The width may vary a little between chassis rails.
71EJVan ·
01/12/2005
Here is a pic of the completed fuel tank, battery, electrics, fuel pumps, storage housing. The tank will sit on timber mounts on the two rails in the centre and be held down by steel straps (I'm re-using the old ones). The fuel tank area will be sheeted in 0.4mm steel and be sealed with both up and down ventilation to the outside (40mm pipe). the rest will be sheeted in ply and be trimmed in waterproof carpet. There will be 4 accessible enclosures. 2 for wiring and electronics, 1 for battery (you can see the frame on the lower right hand side) and 1 for tool storage (might put a second battery in here).
The wiring harness in pretty much complete and in.
I'm going to re-use the fuse blocks and relays from the original car. Going to feed the front of the van from this. I have identified all of the AC wiring and left it in the loom as I will AC the van at a latter date. All I have to do is take a feed to the front to pick up the original fuse box, have the ignition switch control a relay at the back for the starter (40Amp) and rerun the rear lights.
The looms took 4 nights and one day to identify, rehash, shorten, remove unused, and recover.
After much measuring cutting welding and grinding the radiator mount is complete. Here is three pics of the completed mount. The last one is a test fit under the van chassis. I will make some modifications the rear of frame to raise it a little. The scoop will be sheeted in 0.4mm and there will sheeting in front of the scoop under the floor to smooth the airflow out a little.
71EJVan ·
Here is some pictures of the motor mounted on the cross member. Still have to complete the gearbox mounting.
Got some pipework bent up for the radiator pipes. As I could not take the car to the bender I bent up some wire and took it to the exhaust shop. Got it pretty close and only had to make sone minor adjustments with the oxy. Big thanks to Erina Mufflers for this work.
Also made a reducer from a flared peice of exhaust pipe and a truck exhaust coupler. I still have to cut out a V ans re-weld to angle it more towards the MAF sensor so the 80mm flexible hose doesn't have such a bend in a short distance.
Changed the bottom fuel line fitting from a 1/4 to a 5/16 by cutting the old one out and silver soldering a threaded base in with the new fitting. Could change this easily for a 3/8 fitting at a latter date if I need to. also added a fuel return and another vent for the tank using the same fittings.
Mounted the MAF and a douf douf pod filter under the spare wheel in the fresh air compartment this will be sheeted in to create a cold air box. Charcoal canister will also sit in this area.
Regards
Brendan
crewcabconnection ·
don't be so modest, this would cost ya massive bucks if it wasn't in yer garage....fantastics read, good onya.
richbaker78 ·
wow your really forging ahead!! I just catch up and you go and do some more!!!
what radiator did you use - it looks bigger thanvthe std impreza/legacy? im thinking of junking my std one for more capacity.
keep it up.
Rich
71EJVan ·
Rich,
The radiator is from a Deawoo Leganza. Was in very good condition (still shiny inside the end tanks) complete with fans for $180.
Brendan
kroozzn63 ·
so wats next? have u got an approximate date of completion? "Man its coming along great" are you gunna dump it?
squizy ·
Work of art Brendan. I'll try and pop in before Christmas. Will give you a call. Got some new stickers for you!
71EJVan ·
Brendon,
The only time I'll dump is when I get out of it and walk to a toilet. No this one will be near stock height. s l e e p e r...
Might lower the front 2 inches to get a good looking stance.
I plan to have it registered before the Nats.
Squiz,
I'll have the beers waiting cold for you!
Regards
Brendan
Dero ·
Thats some sweet work so far, look pretty much exactly what i am planning though for me it a Splitty, which is currently a swinger... :thumb
Question...
How do you plan on bleeding your radiator/ coling setup? I probably dont know what i am talking about but you could get problems with air pockets in the lines...
Thanks for the detailed picks they are going to be handy for my design, I have some holidays soon so i plan to get started... 🙂
1303 ·
Great work Brendan, mods look quality, love the engine cross member and sub frame in the van. Good place for the Air Filter too, it will get plenty of free cold air.
I cant wait to race you to the beach in mine!!
Cheers Paul.
71EJVan ·
Paul,
We should all catch up before or over the xmas break to look at each other's handywork and generally talk the BS that we do.
Brendan
1303 ·
Sounds good Bredan, my car has been waiting in line to be dynoed for the final tune. I'll bring it round when I get it back.
Cheers Paul.
GeorgeL ·
four months have gone by! How is progress?
George
vwtyp2 ·
also keen to see, as a previous owner of this van, and now a ej20t powered van owner.
71EJVan ·
I promise. More pictures of progress this weekend.
Brendan
71EJVan ·
I promised so here is an update.
A lot of time has been taken up with sheeting the floor and over engine fuel tank area. Tank is in place for the last time with hoses plumbed up. Still need to mount fuel pumps and swirl pot. Before final sheeting I will line the enclosure with 0,5 aluminium sheet for fireproofing.
Floor is built up with two layers of ply, ply packing and dense foam for good support right across. Van will be carpeted up to the waist line.
Started fabricating the exhaust. 2.5 inch mandrel bends and a custom made down pipe flange and collector. Just tacked together at the moment. Will pick up the Cat and muffler on Saturday to finish the fitting.
Made a gearbox mount from some angle, flat bar, a couple of type one mounts and a couple of bolts. Turned out pretty well. This will allow me to remove the motor and the gearbox will stay in place.
Reworked the radiator mount for more ground clearance. Now mounted in place with pipework 80% complete.
You can see the hose routing. Will make nylon escution panels to locate the hoses/pipes through the chassis.
Still need to make a small reducer and connect these hoses.
Picked up a set of Audi A3 mags for the van. Just what I wanted. A bit of style without any bling. Spell S L E E P E R.
Got to be comfortable as well. Will graft these buckets into it.
Been a little busy as well building a 1600TP for the green 1302 for my daughter. Jak Rizo came round on Good Friday and we swapped the 2110 for the 1600. 100 hp to 50 hp what a difference!
2110 out and ready for sale.
Also ran heater hoses and new cable conduit to the front (old pipe was rusted badly). Will have quite a lot of rust repairs to do at the front as I found more other than the two floor panels I already knew about. Removed the windscreen and no suprise..rust. Under the bumper underneath rust all the way across. I will buy replacement panels to save time here. Want to get it completed for Valla. Still have to decide about the rear disc brakes. EA or Kit or other?
Brendan
pete wood ·
Nice, shame about the rust, but still, fix it now, don't have to worry later on. Will it get a respray as well?
71EJVan ·
I will fix all the rust sections but may not spray it before rego. Want to have it on the road before Valla so if I painted it I don't think I would make it in time.
Brendan
RENNWAGEN ·
What did your radiator come from? It looks like a good fit.
rocknrob ·
how much clearance do you have under the sump Brendan?:duh....any plans on shortening it?....Rob
71EJVan ·
Renwagen
The radiatior and twin fan assembly came out of a Deawoo Leganza. The fans sit quite low to the radiator allowing me to introduce the slant up into the chassis area. I have yet to do the sheeting of the scoop and the surrounding areas. I bought some 0.7mm alluminium sheet but thing it would blow out at speed so I'll be changing to tin plate instead. There will be sheeting in front of the radiator to smooth out the airflow and also the side areas will be sealed in to create a suction from the back.
Rob
This van will be kept at near to stock height (I may lower the front a little to get a slight rake). There is plenty of clearance of about 180mm. I made the crossmember so that it sits lower than the sump by 5mm so if I scrape anything it will be the cross member. I may also add a little bash plate to the crossmember under the sump for extra protection. I could lower the van a fair bit and it would still be ok.
Brendan
brendan24688 ·
G'day Brendan hows the van coming along now. Must be getting close by now 😀
Brendan
[ Edited on 15/05/2005 by brendan24688 ]
h ·
yeah lookin cool more pics pls..
71EJVan ·
Finished the exhaust sustem. All painted up with some swish mounts and heat sheild.
The front nose has now been removed as well as the drivers abd passengers floor panels. Awaiting delivery of the new panels.
Doing little jobs at the moment like hooking up the charcoal canister, vacume hoses and fuel tank vent hoses. About to start on sheeting in the left hand air entry rear indicator area with aluminium sheeting for a cold air box. Also getting back onto the radiator pipework. Had some reducers made to match the radiator hose diameter. Will weld those on and complete the pipe mounting brackets this weekend. Also sectioned and rewelded the turbo intake reducer so the flexible hose doesn't have such a tight bend onto the MAF sensor.
I need to take photos during daylight hours as there is not enough light at night for good exposure. Pics this weekend I promise.
Brendan
71EJVan ·
Here are a few pictures of the completed exhaust system. I'm pretty happy with how the mounting system turned out. The O2 sensor was pretty close on the original make so I did some alterations to give it some clearance away from the cat converter.
Brendan
Tucks up under there pretty good. Outlet pipe sits one inch below the rear bumper.
More detail with the valance removed.
Left side suspension bracket (rubber mounted) and also heat sheild which bolts to the muffler.
Cat converter. You can just see the top of the O2 sensor here. I also welded a section into the crossmember support brace to create a small kink for extra clearance from both the sensor and LH exhaust manifold.
Muffler suspension bar mounts between the rear bumper brackets.
squizy ·
Brendan you are one skilled dude. I've got to ifnd some time this weekend to have a look.
boof2332 ·
I am just about to put together the exhaust on the splitty...its got less room then my bug due to that massive cradle under th box.
Matt
71EJVan ·
Matt,
I'm going to change my exhaust. I originally used slip joints on the cat which meant that I could not have the cat close to the loop that goes around the axle. I will cut them off and use flange joints which will pust the cat forward by about 3 inches clearing the O2 sensor by plenty and allowing me to spin the cat and get more ground clearance.
Not sure how your crossmember is but the up beams of mine weld to the inner chassis flanges and not below the chassis rails as some do. This gives more side clearance.
Regards
Brendan
kroozzn63 ·
how far now to go ??
71EJVan ·
Man have I been slack in keeping you all up to date.
The problem with winter is it is always dark when I'm at home during the week and 3 x kids soccer takes up a lot of the weekends AND the surf is better during winter!
Having said that some progress has been made.
The new front skin is almost ready to weld in place. It is quite a good fit with only minimal adjustment).
Made a Subaru engine carrier with casters that allows me to bolt it up under the motor and jack from under it with a trolley jack. Unbolt engine and drop it all down on the casters and remove the jack. Sweet.
I dropped the subi motor to fit the flywheel, kennedy 2100lb pressure plate and HD clutch plate.(snapped a clutch bolt on fitting the pressure plate due to old man poor eyesight syndrome and setting torque wrench too high! Luckily the busted bolt came out easily and I replaced the whole set with new high tensile units)
Measured everything up with the 091 gearbox (with 002 200mm bell housing) and 200mm flywheel and other than a little bit of trimming (1-2mm) the input shaft spline back it should all go together fine.
Removed the clutch cable arm, cut it and lengthened it by 20mm. Welded strengthening sections into it also as it now has to pull against a 2100lb pressure plate. (Did this to keep the clutch pedal reasonably soft and reduce stress on the front pedal mount area).
Trimmed the Volksconversions adaptor plate for the turbo to intercooler pipe to clear and also the intercooler bracket.
Redid the exhaust system moving the Cat further forward to give more clearance on the oxygen sensor and also got rid of the slip joints and used proper flanges. (I may need to do this again as the Cat might foul the new swaybar mounts on the bottom of the shock mounting point).
Made a new 1.5 litre swirl pot for the fuel injection system out of a piece of stainless 3.5 inch exhaust pipe cut 300mm long. Cut 2 other pieces 140mm long and split and flattened them to cap the ends of the pipe. Went down to Pirtek and bought 4 stainless threaded fitting and also welded them in which will take the 5/16 barb fittings. Total cost $24 and it's all stainless!
Got hold of a spun stainless pot that I'mm going to use for the VSS by attaching it to the CV flange (starter side).
Dropped the front end last night and removed everything from the beam except for the torsion leaves. Getting a new adjustable beam from Mike at CBB tomorrow.
Will remove the rear brakes tonight as I'm also getting a CBB rear disc brake kit (I have realised I don't have time to source bits and build my own even though I am capable of it).
I will also pick one of their front and rear sway bar kits to attempt to address the 200hp in the poorly handling vehicle issue.
Been also busy collecting some parts....new master cylinder, bearings, brake rebuild kits, seals, brake hoses (Thanks Peter, VW Performance)
While the engine is out I will also do some more bracing to the cross member (two braces from under the gearbox mount to the torsion housing)
Will also make and fit crush tubes to the cross member bolts that go through the chassis rails (To keep the RTA happy).
The project is really starting to move now after a slow period. I had better get some pictures now to explain my words above.
Regards
Brendan
malcolm ·
great work keeps the pics coming
pete wood ·
good stuff mate. :thumb
ricola ·
Nice progress :thumb do you have any better pics of the turbo end of the exhaust and did you do the merged bit yourself?
I also plan to extend the clutch arm so my wife can drive, would be very interested in how you get on with the reduced stroke, I heard the KEP clutches need less travel?
Before you get too far with that VSS, I doubt there is enough ferrous (magnetic) content to trigger hall sensors, unless you are gluing magnets on and using a reed switch?
Rich
[ Edited on 26-8-06 by ricola ]
71EJVan ·
Rich,
You are right I need to get better pictures.
I had a local guy make the merged part/flange.
The other option to extending the clutch arm is to use a Type 3 unit I'm told. I haven't got one to confirm it though.
The hall sensor has a inbuilt magnet one side and the pickup on the other. It is a ZD1900 which cost AU$19 http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=KEYWORD
Seagull has used these also.
Regards
Brendan
ricola ·
Hi Brendan,
I'll have to look into type 3 clutch arm, I thought I read on here that type 2s had the longest ones?
I think you will still have problems using a stainless disc with that sensor, it says in the spec it needs 'iron' to block the sensor, unles it is a very crappy stainless it won't have much ferrous content (ie non-magnetic) so won't block the field and if it did it would rust anyway defeating the purpose of using stainless.. Probably best to zinc passivate a steel disc..
Hope this helps!
Rich
71EJVan ·
Rich,
I will spin it up on a bench and measure the output with a digital multimeter (A CRO would be beter but I don't have one). The stainless disc is certainly magnetically attracted to the sensor when I pass it through.
Regards
Brendan
71EJVan ·
I promised some pictures so here are a few teasers.
VW 1600 002 clutch arm lengthened 20mm and gusseted. Looks flash now but it will be painted black. Still have to drill and shape the centre hole.
Adjustable front beam nearing completion. Had to replace a few ball joints also.
Got a front and rear sway bar. This should fix the 200hp in a sloppy handling vehicle.
Rear disc brake setup. (Commodore unit grafted to Kombi hubs) Will have to get longer wheel studs though. (Swap them over for front studs).
Right side fitted up. Took longer to pack and fit bearings and seals than it did to fit it up.
My $24 swirlpot that I made. Will be mounted at the base with a bracket to the top to stop any nasty vibrations.
Regards
Brendan
[ Edited on 4-9-2006 by 71EJVan ]
[ Edited on 4-9-2006 by 71EJVan ]
boof2332 ·
ricola wrote:Nice progress :thumb do you have any better pics of the turbo end of the exhaust and did you do the merged bit yourself?
[ Edited on 26-8-06 by ricola ]
I made the dump pipe for my car and a couple of others. It is important to seperate the wastegate opening from the rear turbine. Either with a seperate pipe merging into the main pipe, or a open mouth design with a splitter. On the dyno they are pretty much the same in power, significantly up on the stock style.
Matt
71EJVan ·
Happy New Year to you all!
It has been a while!
I promised some pictures and I'm a bit late in supplying them but here they are.
A lot of work goes into fabricating bits that weren't intended to be there and I believe that dodgy just won't do. I also enjoy seeing the result and the journey of making these items (sick I know!).
This is the framework for the middle seat. As it has seatbelts attached to it it must be secured by plates that are more than 6.5mm thick to the floor. I have cut the legs through the flooring so they contact the upper plates and pull up tight with the high tensile bolts.
These are the plates 8mm thick with high tensile M12 nuts tack welded behind them. These will fit underneath the floor and be held in spot by the M6 countersunk screws through 3mm plates above the floor. The whole lot will be sealed to stop water ingress. Takes a while to tap these threads by hand!
Due to the closeness of the turbo to the Mass Airflow Sensor I could not fit the standard Subaru Resonator. This is an adaptor I made to get the angle correct and match the two different pipe sizes. It also has tee offs for purge control etc. Made this out of various size exhaust pipe.
Another bit of fabrication. The plastic pipe from the turbo to the intercooler which has the blow-off valve broke and getting one that fitted proved a little difficult. The answer was to make one out of 2 inch exhaust pipe. Sectioned up the pipe and welded each piece to make the bend. Holesawed and welded in the tee at the correct angle. The ends of the pipe has a rib welded in to stop the hose blowing off under boost.
The rear radiator pipes are in for the final time including tee offs for air bleed (this and the other side is the highest points in the system). These pipes are made out of exhaust pipe also. Once the design proves itself I will remove them and use them as templates for stainless pipework for longevity.
Whilst I'm on the cooling system here is the intercooler radiator bolted into the nount with thermatic fan attached. This mounts above the starter motor to the firewall where the fuel tank use to be.
Brendan
ricola ·
Nice progress pics :thumb I broke my dump valve pipe too but ended up getting a silicone version..
Rich
kevo ·
great photos and excellent engineering mate!
this is for sure the best subaru bus conversion i have ever seen,
keep the posts coming mate!
ElusiveStranger ·
Nice work Brendan, been looking forward to more instalments! :thumb
How much longer to go?
71EJVan ·
Painting main body next weekend. Woohoo!
kroozzn63 ·
more more , brendan can you take a pics of the van
complete,
or are you holding us with suspense
71EJVan ·
I came to the realization that I couldn't paint the whole van in the garage where it was so I focussed on one side, front and rear. I finished the fold back seans of the front skin which was a job I've been putting off for months. Used seam sealer before the final fold over for a nice waterproof joint. I will flood the inner with fish oil to really seal it up after all the painting is done.
I undercoated on Friday, 2 coats of color on Saturday. A light wet rub back with 800 grit this morning just to get it real smooth then the final two coats this afternoon. I will now leave it for 2 weeks before 1200 grit and then polish. I also gave the new rims a coat of alluminium spray to see what it will eventually look like.
This panel was ripple city and needed a recunstructed sill front to back and a fair bit of cancer cut out of the dogleg. Also had a new battery tray and outer skin to support it. It also had bolt holes right through the B pillar!
The front skin turned out pretty good. Late upper with the indicator holes welded up and grafted onto the vent surround (I left 10mm metal around it) and also a early lower cut and shut together. Raised emblem area is a giveaway but where do you stop? Cutting that out and getting the whole panel straight would have been fun I did not want to have.
Spun the whole thing around to work on the other side. Passenger side dog leg is too far gone, both outer and inner. Will order one this week. With the van facing this way it will now be a lot easier to finish off the middle seat and easier access to finish the fuel, seat belt mounts and electricals.
That's all for now
Brendan
pete wood ·
great stuff mate 👍
kevo ·
keep it coming!
squizy ·
As always Brendan great stuff.
ElusiveStranger ·
Nice work Brendan. :thumb
Can't wait for next weeks instalment 😉
boof2332 ·
Hey Brendan,
Have you run your radiator yet...Reason being, is I used a similar set up on the splitty we did and it has had issues. It seems that there is not enough airflow past the back opening and the fans were too close to the under carriage. Instead of causing a low pressure drop behind(on top) it is a high pressure area of stagnant air. We dropped it lower to help the air flow out the back, however its still not as effective as I thought. It got dynoed today and made 141kw at the wheels, which is pretty good considering the air intake temps are always higher on the dyno.
Tomorrow, i will be tilting the radiator the opposite way with nose down at the front, allowing abundant, unrestricted exit flow to the air. How far foward in the chassis rails will also effect the operation...ours was too far back.
Let me know if you have run it.
Matt
I have a one owner bay that Shane is driving till he picks up the splitty... then I am sure common sense would say, take out the awesome 2.0l air cooled motor and wreck another perfectly good vw in the name of power!
ElusiveStranger ·
boof2332 wrote:Hey Brendan,
Have you run your radiator yet...Reason being, is I used a similar set up on the splitty we did and it has had issues. It seems that there is not enough airflow past the back opening and the fans were too close to the under carriage. Instead of causing a low pressure drop behind(on top) it is a high pressure area of stagnant air. We dropped it lower to help the air flow out the back, however its still not as effective as I thought. It got dynoed today and made 141kw at the wheels, which is pretty good considering the air intake temps are always higher on the dyno.
Tomorrow, i will be tilting the radiator the opposite way with nose down at the front, allowing abundant, unrestricted exit flow to the air. How far foward in the chassis rails will also effect the operation...ours was too far back.
Let me know if you have run it.
Looking forward to your findings. My rad (Jag XJ 40) is scooped exactly how you intend to do yours tomorrow (front down, back up, fully boxed in). I've got a huge blower fan on top. Would be great to find out if my theory holds water (haha, sorry) ie not blowing into stagnated air.
I have a front spoiler on my '78 which I intend to take a mould, modify and run ducting to the rad. It's blocking heaps of flow at the mo.
Not that that matters as it's mid winter here in the UK.
boof2332 ·
I have been stuffing around all day with it since the car got back from the dyno and reading lots last night on aerodynamics etc.
I will have the low front and high back and then build a shroud to hold the 2x thermos, which will for about 10cm, be parrallel to the ground then angle up sharply to hold the fans just off verticle. This should then create a really nice low pressure area to draw the air through the rad.
Will let you know tomorrow.
Sorry for themini hi jacking of your post brendan.
Matt
kroozzn63 ·
ooooo yeah thats the stuff, man thats gotta get a magazine story its looking better than the daily driver roughly looking van you were describing, its gunna /it is looking sweet as..
71EJVan ·
No worries Matt.
I'm going to totally seal the rad in with sheeting as well as in front of the scoop in a curve up to the floor to smooth out the airflow from behind the beam. This turbulent air that is caused by the lower tube of the beam is, I think the the reason a low pressure at the back is so important. I may also sheet the rear and create a Gurney flap to assist in the suction through the rad.
ES,
It's killing me not getting back to the conversion but I've got to get the rust and panel work finished. Bolt the rad in, attach the hoses, hook up the punp and intercooler, splice in the wiring that I've already labelled, fill it with oil and fuel and start it. Sound real easy when I tell myself this but there is the issue of a few little jobs I have to do prior to these tasks that are not related to the engine start. I don't want to have to go back and pull the rad to get the middle seat in and also renove the intercooler rad to do the final fit of the rear swaybar. Bloody catch 22! BTW how is your VSS going? Send me a U2U.
Thanks Brendon,
It's not magazine material. Whilst I've spent a lot of time straightening the panels, removing old bog and peining out dings, I've not done a show car prep and paint job. This is my surf wagon that I don't want to attract too much attention. I've swapped the audi A3 wheels for Merc steelies and am also thinking of buying another 2.5 inch mandrel U bend to lift the rear exhaust out of sight further.
I'm also thinking of the next project that is currently in storage (2nd Daughter's 71 Notch)....more damn sanding!
Brendan
boof2332 ·
I finished the new one today on the splitty. I too have smoothed out the floor from the front cross beam to the top of the radiator. I will try and post some pics although the ones I took were too dark.
I have been reading a bit about air flow dynamics, and as long as there is a pressure drop between the front and the back, it will work. My one like yours was a little too high and close to the cross rail and the back.
Matt
h ·
man thats lookin sweet.. keep em comin yeah..
Iwish4aSynchro ·
Awesome works, wondering what your day job is as i can imagine these pipes and bends for exhaust and turbo being manufatcured at work, nice and neat.:thumb
Damm thats a huge savimg on the wallet bloke and again, awesome works.
I know it's a labour of love but have you added the man hrs for such a project?:thumb
71EJVan ·
Iwish4a,
I work in an office all day. This is my release. Actually I'm an Electrical Fitter Mechanic (sparky) by trade but have not done that for a lot of years.
I have been going on this since the first week of Sept 2005 so an average of 8 hours per weekend and 4 hours midweek works out to 912 hours. The beetle in my signature took approximately 1400 hours.
Brendan
Iwish4aSynchro ·
Commited or crazy hang on it means the same...
Nice work....
71EJVan ·
Look at the date above, more than a year since my last post. A lot of catching up to do.
IT RUNS!! 2 Years 6 Months and 26 Days.
Oil is pouring out of both rocker cover gaskets and a small water leak but I don't care.
There were a couple of problems that delayed me over the last couple of weeks from leaking radiator pipes to a leaking fuel tank but the latest problem was the most frustrating which was turning over, it gives a kick then just continues to turn over. The problems were caused by the following
I did not have the starting wire connected to the ECU. (This was the cause of the initial fire then nothing but cranking)
2 Injectors were seized up so even when it started it only ran on two cylinders. I removed all the injectors and made a cable with a little limit switch to pulse 12 volts to them until they triggered. Gave them a light tap on the outside body also to give them a little help.
It ran rough at first then sorted itself out and idled smoothly and throttled up fine. Still need to read memory for errors but that can wait until tomorrow.
I'm now sitting here drinking a celebratory ale feeling pretty pleased with myself.
It should be engineered and registered the week after Easter as long as I can get hold of some gaskets.
Regards
Brendan
vwtyp2 ·
good stuff Brendan.
some more recent pics would be good to see. 👍
h ·
whoo hooo.. pics for sure pls..
71EJVan ·
Next job. Fix the oil leaks.
Rocker cover gaskets, cam oil seals and crankshaft seal. While I'm at it a new timing belt (the motor had done 70k). For the sake of $149 it's worth replacing. Motor is easy to work on in the back of a lowlight.
71EJVan ·
To give you an idea of where I'm at with the van ... pretty close to rego.
71EJVan ·
If I finish the accelerator linkages under the floor today I can take it for a drive.
kroozzn63 ·
Ahhhhhh my old van, wow she looks great Brendo, splendid job
71EJVan ·
Here is a couple of the heater core. Was out of a late model hilux, cut down to remove the bypass (I will do that another way) and grafted into the pipe elbow just below the floor. A kombi blower will drive it from behind with a bypass vane on it. There is also a limit switch mounted behind the contols on the dash to start the blower. Everything will look stock in the cab.
71EJVan ·
Drove it yesterday up and down the street. Very smooth with plenty of power. Just have to sort out a couple of things before engineering and blue slip on Friday. Adjust clutch and gear shift. Get that air lock out of the cooling system since I put in the heater core. Might bleed the brakes again as they are a little spongy.
Pics to follow.
Brendan
ElusiveStranger ·
Nice one Brendan w00t!!!
Problem I found with the airlock..... This is my theory:
Standard Scooby has it's rad (for all intents and purposes) above the block. Air passes up into the rad & gets 'blown' out when the system pressurizes. The stock outlet for the matrix is lower.
Rad situated below the engine as ours have been done... air passes up into the matrix system, whoops.
Here's what I've done (appols for the links)
(Kev, CleverChap & Evercold are now running 'flow through' matrix tanks)
It works a charm!
Also there's probably a 'high' spot in the low return from the rad, this is a bit of a bugger to bleed. Allow the engine to get to operating temp, a bit of a foot full around the block gets rid of the rest. You could add a bleed point here if you were inclined, only a quick scootch under to bleed it
VSS is still working a charm, my '98 UK spec needed it or the ECU goes to limp home. It's pretty cool running the laptop with the OBD s/w running. I'm OBD-I btw
Keep up the good work mate 😀
71EJVan ·
Hmm,
I have only recently added the heater matrix and the pipe entries are lower than the matrix itself. Before fitting it up underneath the floor I tilted it then filled the coolant until I could feel fluid in both pipes. Only then did I mount it up. I guess air has still found it's way in and is trapped in the core. I might bypass the core again to prove my theory (and get it to engineering on Saturday)
I already have tee off welded into the highest point in both rad pipes. The one from the out of the engine I use for filling as it goes to the high point of the rad and when not disconnected goes back to the stock filler expansion container connection that has the one way valve (in). The other is used for an air bleed when filling as when cold the TStat would be closed and air would be trapped in here.
This system worked fine and the degrees stayed at about 88c with the rad fans cycling on an off with the engine fully warm. The only thing I have changed is adding the heater core and added non pressurised expansion bottle to the overflow. This bottle works ok as the level raises and lowers as it should during operation.
I won't be happy if I have to butcher my heater system to turn it upside down to stop it trapping air.
I'll let you know how I go.
Regards
Brendan
1303Steve ·
Hi Brendan
The amount of air in the system your talking about would have to be a very small amount, why not just run it and see if burps itself out after a few hills and bumps. You could always put a bleed cock on the heater core.
Steve
71EJVan ·
Steve,
The heater core is sealed in it's enclosure. I just took the cap off and noticed the level way down. It took a litre of coolant to fill back up. You may be right.
Brendan
Here is a couple of pics of Vanrex's first steps.
kroozzn63 ·
sweeeeeeet brendo just some youtube for us to hear her growl
1303Steve ·
Hi Bendan
I was pretty lucky with my Wasser bug, I could fill it to the brim when cold, drive it around and it would top itself up from the overflow. I hope Im as lucky with the next car.
Yep some youtube would be good
ElusiveStranger ·
Brendan, water vapourises at a lower temp than boiling. Around 70°C and it is noticable. Stick a pan on the hob and watch.
My theory is this happens as the engine warms up and localised hot spots increase this.
When the engine is off (& coolingdown) I'm assuming this continues to happen, to a point. There's no pump to circulate this through the bleed system.
The air/vapor lock sits in the water manifold (high point of block) until you start up again, thermo's now closed, water circulates through the matrix system (path of least resistance)
Some days I hear the gurgle for a few seconds as the air works it's way out - then all's well again.
My theory may well be wrong, but my set up works very well. No holes drilled in 'stats etc
I tried with a single feed header, soooooo much grief!
Looking great in the photos. Shame I can't pop over for a proper look & a beer.
1303Steve ·
Hi
On a slightly different subject but still concerning bleeding air out. I had a air to water intercooler on my wasser bug, the 12 volt pump was not self primming and was pain to bleed, so I fitted a garden hose fitting in the line before the pump with a shut off valve, I just turned the pump on, closed the valve, turned the hose on and waited for water to come back to the overflow bottle.
I've seen a rig for filling V6 Common doors, it fits to the radiator and sits up about 2 foot, it gives the water a bit of head when filling.
Steve
pete wood ·
mmm, good idea. Kimm at indian does this with his crew cab. I might just do that to mine yet. bleeding the heater is a right pain.
ian.mezz ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
On a slightly different subject but still concerning bleeding air out. I had a air to water intercooler on my wasser bug, the 12 volt pump was not self primming and was pain to bleed, so I fitted a garden hose fitting in the line before the pump with a shut off valve, I just turned the pump on, closed the valve, turned the hose on and waited for water to come back to the overflow bottle.
I've seen a rig for filling V6 Common doors, it fits to the radiator and sits up about 2 foot, it gives the water a bit of head when filling.
Steve
yer i use a big black funnel , i just stick it in the top of radiator and fill it up with water and the air comes up , $2 From Kmart saves money buying that holden filling rig 😂
ian.mezz ·
BMW have a neat little pump in their heater system that pumps water through the heater system it works a treat no air block as it pumps the water, it comes on mmost of the 6cylinder models, they also come with electric solenoid heater taps no cables and levers needed just a wire 😎Its good i will be using it on my subaru vw 😎
1303Steve ·
Hi
My old Audi turbo had an after electric waterpump on the turbo, it circulated water through the turbo housing to cool it after the motor was turned off and some T4s had them as well.
Steve
ElusiveStranger ·
Brendan,
I forgot to mention that my water manifold is reversed (all pipes run down)so I couldn't use a header tank like Helbus did.
If mine hadn't been reversed that would have been my 1st choice as it's uphill from that manifold.
71EJVan ·
Thanks for all the info guys. I started simple and worked at getting rid of the air locks. Seems to work ok. Did about 80 klms today getting the engineering certificate and gennerally it stayed at 90 deg. Sitting in traffic it went up to 95-97deg so it was all good. One thing it was quite cool today.
Oh year it passed Engineering!! Woohoo! I worked until 3:30 am this morning finishing things off. Broke a window mechanism at 2:00am (the neighbours now know about this along with my abilities with expletives).
Now for the real bad news. My clutch plate looks to have disintegrated. A couple of take offs from standing starts (not dumping the clutch) and it shuddered quite bad. Got it home and put it into first to drive up my driveway which is quite steep. No go just sits there and shudders. let it all cool down, set up some little ramps at the gutter and drove at it from the street without stopping to get it in the garage. Opened the engine lid to find clutch dust coating everything, some pieces up to 2mm.
I think my choice of going with a stock clutch plate as the sacrificial component in the driveline a poor one. Matched to a Kennedy Stage 2 the surface appears to not be able to take it.
I hope I can limp it on Monday to get Blue slip and rego.
Happy days the motor is comming out again!!
Any thoughts?
Brendan
1303Steve ·
Hi Brendan
You must be shattered, what a let down. What size clutch are you running? You have probably already posted this. Maybe get in touch with Kennedy and see what they have.
Steve
71EJVan ·
Steve,
It's a 200mm Stage 2 Kennedy
Regards
Brendan
1303Steve ·
Hi Brendan
Kennedy do a 200 mm heavy duty disc for use with V8s on VW tansaxles and a KEP gold that are a bit stronger. I just bought a Kennedy kit so I have all there paperwork in front of me. I think V-Force had some heavy duty 200s as well.
Steve
71EJVan ·
Steve,
I just had a thought that the front gearbox mount may also be broken so I'll check that out as well. I will go for a heavier plate though and the Kennedy sounds like a good choice.
Brendan
71EJVan ·
Gearbox mount is fine. I'd say I'm going to replace the clutch plate.
BTW got it registered today.
Brendan
ElusiveStranger ·
BUMP!!!
Brendan, I certainly need my "Surf n Swoosh" fix!
71EJVan ·
An Update.
Found there was not enough bow in the bowden tube. It is driving ok now but the clutch slips in 3rd and 4th when you spool up the turbo. Not real bad but it is noticeable. The third gear synchro is that painfull that I bypass it altogether shifting back down and must wait an eternity for revs to drop to get it in shifting up if I have the revs up in second (which is easy to do with this motor). I might have the new gearbox tomorrow so the transplant will start soon.
Have done about 400 miles on it so far. The ride is great until you hit a bump. It looks great but it sits too low for my liking (and back). CBB delivered the rear adjustable spring plates during the week and along with adjusting the front beam which I originally purchased from Mike, the van will be raised about 1 to 1.5 inches to get it off the bump stops and allow the suspension to do it's job. This will also give me more peace of mind in relation to the radiator scoop and speed humps.
Temp has setled down without any changes to the system. Still using the original suby fill point as the highest point in the system. Temp get's to about 93c and the tstat opens. Temp stays around 90c but there is a bit of heat soak in traffic which pushes it up. To fix this I still have to seal off the cold air "box" around the air cleaner which is under the left hand air intake. Also will install a better heat shroud around the turbo and some wrapping around most of the exhaust. The radiator fans don't seem to trigger even with I force the temp over 100c but they do cycle on and off with the test mode connectors joined. I will test out the resistance on the temp sensor and see if it is up to scratch.
I built this van for "no bling" but with the low stance and the big exhaust pipe and a very non-VW exhaust note it does attract attention. Went surfing last Sunday and as me and my mate were kitting up we had three individual walk ups wanting to talk about the van. Not really what I wanted when I built it.
Maybe I need to bolt some pea shooters to the back and play fweeming tunes out a speaker at the back to fool the punters.
Brendan
ElusiveStranger ·
71EJVan wrote:It looks great but it sits too low for my liking (and back). ...
I built this van for "no bling".....
we had three individual walk ups wanting to talk about the van. Not really what I wanted when I built it.....
I knew it would be a show stopper from day one. Stealth has passed you by.
'sfunny how things turn out 😉
Swap you if you like, mine looks like a shed
71EJVan ·
I have not even polished it yet also.
Got the new 091 gearbox today. Will clean it up ready to install along with the new clutch plate next weekend.
Brendan
pete wood ·
71EJVan wrote:I built this van for "no bling" but with the low stance and the big exhaust pipe and a very non-VW exhaust note it does attract attention. Went surfing last Sunday and as me and my mate were kitting up we had three individual walk ups wanting to talk about the van. Not really what I wanted when I built it.
Maybe I need to bolt some pea shooters to the back and play fweeming tunes out a speaker at the back to fool the punters.
Brendan
[pete assumes aircooled anal purist voice]
"werl if you'd put a proper motor, an "aircooled" motor in it, no one would be interested in it at all..."
😂 It's funny coz it's true. 🤓
BTW, where is your temp sensor? I ended up moving mine to the top of the motor, of course I'm using an aftermarket one, not the factory ECu output.
71EJVan ·
Pete,
My temp sensor is the one in the water manifold above the motor which is next to the ECU water temp sensor.
Brendan
71EJVan ·
On my engine there was two sensors. One for the gauge which I changed to suit the new one, and the other for the ECU.
Brendan
pete wood ·
any update brendo?
ElusiveStranger ·
Are your ears burning Brendan?
BUMP
71EJVan ·
Pretty much 12 months of trouble free motoring (apart from the clutch).
It's got a stripe and Audi A4 wheels on it now (Blinggg!)
Doing some further mods.
Am remaking the hydraulic clutch setup after I found that the lack of movement in the slave cylinder during the throw of the clutch arm caused the slave piston shaft to bend and destroy the seals.
Got a rebuild kit and also some Heim joints both ends, along with remaking an old clutch arm with a clevis at the end. Also will be changing the 19mm master cylinder for a 17mm one to make the pedal a bit softer. Will be fitting it all this weekend.
Also have been working on a new coolinng system as I am adding air conditioning to the van for next summer. Bought a new WRX alloy radiator, modified the outlets, new fans along with a Liberty condensor in a new mount. Will also be replacing all the exhaust grade steel radiator pipes with stainless and mandrel bends. (a long weekend fitting all of this!).
I also added a second intercooler radiator underneath beside the main radiator. Had an immediate improvement in bringing intake temps down quicker after some heavy running.
I've done about 12000klms since the van was registered in April last year. I drove it most days and it always puts a smile on my face.
Brendan
ElusiveStranger ·
Great news Brendan.
Hope you sort the clutch.
Chuffed for ya 🙂
71EJVan ·
Have you ever ordered something from overseas and subsequently found that the quality was not that good?
"Billet" clutch slave cylinder US $56 plus ninetytwelve million USPS. Two goes at getting a replacement seal kit (the web site part numbers suck and don't match the actual items displayed).
Fabricated a new all in one bracket that mounts to the side of the 091 that takes the hydraulic slave cylinder and the bowden tube. Also made a nifty turnbuckle system to adjust the clutch by myself without having to use a big screwdriver.
Got to the part of bleeding the system at 8pm last night (wet and cold night out in the open). First pressure after bleeding the boot exploded off the end of the cylinder and sprayed me whilst I was laying underneath it. #*^%^!!
Put it all back the way it was with the clutch tube about to break free and escape!
I'm going to a Jamar slave cylinder as at least you can get parts for them from multiple dealers.