yup, they are leaking all over my heater boxes. Should I replace just the seals, or the whole tube and the seals? On one side, the tubes look 'new' (they still have the stickers on them) but the other side look a bit old...
what to do.. what to do...
DIY-DUB 路
whole lot at once if the $$ is available, easier in long term in my op馃憤
blutopless2 路
replace the lot.... at least then you KNOW that they are all new tubes and seals.
oval TOFU 路
cool, I've ordered new stainless push rod tubes 馃檪
I read in the manual that I should replace the gasket of the head-to-cylinder join. I suppose this is a good idea?
76camper 路
If your taking off the head then why not. Good time to check deck height and compression aswell or if your happy just run with the same size gasket as before. Good luck with it.
oval TOFU 路
The compression seems to be good (drives very well), so I'll probably just leave it. What's the deck height?
HGFS 路
oval TOFU wrote:The compression seems to be good (drives very well), so I'll probably just leave it. What's the deck height?
The amount of space between the piston at TDC and the top of the cylinder. One way to measure it is torque down a cylinder with a piece of flat bar going diagonally across the cylinder. Rotate the motor until that piston is at the top of the stroke and measure the gap between the piston & the bar with feeler gauges. The measurement, the cc's in the head & the stroke is used to calculate compression ratio.
oval TOFU 路
SVW-054 wrote:The amount of space between the piston at TDC and the top of the cylinder. One way to measure it is torque down a cylinder with a piece of flat bar going diagonally across the cylinder. Rotate the motor until that piston is at the top of the stroke and measure the gap between the piston & the bar with feeler gauges. The measurement, the cc's in the head & the stroke is used to calculate compression ratio.
That sounds way above my head! If I do a compression test with the heads on and everything is ok (120psi give or take 10psi per cylinder?) I should be able to leave it all alone yeh?
oval TOFU 路
oval TOFU wrote:That sounds way above my head!
oh dear... I just realised the pun.. hahaha
*did* 路
maybe go some adjustable push rod tubes, then you dont need to pull your heads.
just unbolt the rockers, pull out the push rods, bend and remove the old tubes, put in the new ones (with new seals), push rods back in, rockers back on and away you go!
oval TOFU 路
I've bought the 'normal' push rod tubes already... it's off with 'es head now! Besides, I haven't heard good things about the adjustable ones..
vw54 路
what size engine are we talking about 36 40 1500 ???
The compression test sounds good however i would re lap the barrels to each head to be sure it seals properly, which also means removing each barrel and cleaning the heads n tops of pistons of carbon build up.
oval TOFU 路
40...
re lap???
vw54 路
OK theres no head gaskets on any of the air cooled VW engines so you have to lap each barrell to each head position, just like lapping valves to the head
76camper 路
definantly worth getting rid of carbon deposits. save you from run on problems in the future aswell as pinging.
oval TOFU 路
vw54 wrote:OK theres no head gaskets on any of the air cooled VW engines so you have to lap each barrell to each head position, just like lapping valves to the head
Sorry, I still don't know what 'lapping' is.. :cry
vw54 路
You get Valve lapping paste which is an abrasive paste and apply it to the top of the barrell and insert it into the head then rotate back n forth to lap the faces together.
Its basic engineering as theres no gasket it makes the 2 surfaces flat so they seal when tighten up
oval TOFU 路
do you get rid of th paste once you they're lapped together? or leave it in like a liquid gasket kinda thing?