Bought this home from Adelaide to put into something to have a bit of fun over 400 metres.It's an early Autocraft that I bought from Adam Debiasi, who went thru it for me to freshen everything up.Will bolt it up to a six rib Kombi box to start with,then change ratios later if needed.I will run the original Hilborn injection with Methanol in a light weight body.I have started to build a pan for it with the rear torsion bar tubes and yokes raised to get the pan and body a lot lower without sacrificing suspension movement.It didn't come with an oil tank,so will have to build something,but will have to do a bit of research to figure where to place all the fittings.
barls ·
god damn do you need an adopted son?
nbturbo ·
Yeah-might have to-mine"s moved to Brisbane for love and work,so don't see much of him any more.Caught up with him at the Clipsal last weekend though-the boy just loves a good car race.
barls ·
damn sounds like the position is already filled right time for plan b
dangerous ·
Looks good.
What size is it, and what car are you going to put it in?
Can't have too much info!
Volkswagenboy ·
*Drools*
-Staggers.
Cam ·
Daaamn thats cool! Should be heaps of fun 👍
Dasdubber ·
Nice Gary - can't wait to hear some more details! 👍
no slow 63 ·
Cool... Another car for the strip!
dangerous ·
Those heads are Stage 5 Autocraft and I first read about them in the March 1983 Hot VW's magazine.
They are very good heads and were the culmination of all the R&D that Autocraft did, prior
to the Pro-Series castings that were released later that year.
I can still remember drooling over that magazine for hours until it got so tattered that I had to
find another one at a swap meet.
Raising the tortion tube? That is a huge amount of work....you're really taking this seriously!
Good luck with the project, that will go very well with those heads.
OH! AND HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!
[ Edited on 30-3-2006 by dangerous ]
nbturbo ·
thanks dangerous-At this stage I will be building a Beetle ute body for it with a lift up fibreglass Stylside rear tray with glass F100 style rear guards.I will make it 100mm longer in the wheelbase as well lifting the rear up 2 inches.I have cut all the tubes and centre tunnel just forward of the gear lever mount from 1 pan and will trim it all up and weld it on top of another pan which I have just cut the horns from.Will cut the shock mounts from the main pan and gusset the 2 torsion tubes together and it will bring the gear lever up 2 and back 4 inches.You might get an idea from these.Got a bloke organised to put some bars in it and have picked up a glass front bonnet.Will buy another set of Aeros for the front.I have a couple of sets of clutch/brake pedal assemblies coming from the States to make it LH drive-something a little different.
Dasdubber ·
Wow you don't do things in halves hey?! :o 👍
HotRodMatt ·
That mill is a good starting point. Check with ANDRA about lengthening the wheel base, you don't want to do yourself out of any possible classes that you can it in.
nbturbo ·
Spent a couple of hours this afternoon fitting the throttle bodies and some mods to the breathers etc. I cannot figure out any of the dry sump system.Has anybody had any experience with these motors? It has a 3 stage pump with 2 fittings at the bottom of the case(figure these must both be suction) and one up higher which must be pressure into the motor.There are 2 things which look like check valves( one in the lower pipe and one in the pressure line)
dangerous ·
The upper check valve controls system pressure and is the main relief valve. It is normally returned to the sucton side of that stage with a loop,
which I can see is in place in the first photos.
The other one on the scavenge side is...I dont know...may be a screen to stop debri, or a flapper valve to stop tank drain back into the engine,
if the engine sits....but pull it off to check that it is clean anyway.
Both of the scavenge stages go to your tank, and then the pressure stage will draw the oil from this tank, hopefully at a point in the tank that has no air bubbles in the oil.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave-just finished pulling all the pipe work off and checking everything and replaced all the 'O' rings.Figured it all out-just like you said.Both the lower ones are suction,and the big barrel thing is just a screen-seems like a bit of overkill.The other suction one also has a screen on it-about 150mm long and 15mm diameter and it seems to go into a cavity that is separate from the bottom of the case.The main relief has a shitty set up sealing at the 'O' ring,so I will machine a small relief to capture the ring better.When it relieves it just pumps back into the front pump suction.The rear one is the largest pump and it does the engine pressure feed.Will run it out thru a filter then back into the motor.Shouldn't need an oil cooler for the short runs it will get.Still can't figure how the tank will not drain back into the case when not running.
dangerous ·
The tank will drain back into the engine, and how fast depends on the oil pump gears.
Some fit a tap but that can spell disaster if forgotten.
I just set the tank level so that when things even out, the level in the engine is below the barrels.
Once the engine is re-fired, the scavenges will take care of the engine oil level.
This may take an adjustable (in height) tank mount to fine tune.
I like to use about 7 litres of volume but in theory 5 plus filter volume should be enough.
Either way, do lots of homework.
nbturbo ·
Yes on to it-thanks for the input.Have just ordered the 2 hoops and enough tube for the roll cage-will be ready early next week-will try to run the 2 that go to the rear right back to the trans yokes.Will have to pull out the digit now to get the body cut in half and the pan ready for it to be welded in.
[ Edited on 4-4-2006 by nbturbo ]
063bug ·
ndturbo, looks like you have a lot of fun to come.... is there any chance you could make this a regular update so we can all check out the progress.... by the way what were the cylinder and bore sizes?
nbturbo ·
Yes I hope so.Bore is 96.5 and 86 stroke-2516cc.Will try to keep story up to date.Picked up some exhaust flanges and 180 degree bends in inch and 5/8 to build an exhaust for it.Will have do some research what will work best on it.
nbturbo ·
Started on the exhaust-decided to build it on top of the motor because the oil pumps hang out the back too far,which would make it hang out the back too far as well.Don't know how this will work,but will have it all equal lengths-will do the last bit of the tail pipe once it's all set up in the car.
dangerous ·
mmmm, short primary lengths...that's the go.
shiftyvw ·
and 4-2-1 as well! apparently thats the current trend with nascar and some prostockers as it gives more tunable sections?
dangerous ·
Yes I noticed the 4-2-1 on some of the latest pro-stock cars.
Cetainly hasn't slowed them down at all, and for the volksies,
it makes the job of making an exhaust much easyer.
When I did the sums for my combo, it wanted about 28 to 30" primary length,
but when you measure fom the exhaust valve, this is hard to achieve
without going to an "over the top" design.
By the way, in the end I got slack and just extended an off the shelf system
to clear the pump, and it is way too long, thus reducing the RPM
at which peak torque occurs, and therefore peak horsepower RPM also.
nbturbo ·
Yes,I have seen this setup on a few and it's certainly a lot easier to build and keep everything uniform.Would have liked to have the 2&1/4inch pipes a little longer B4 they join at the 3 inch collector,but again it would hang out the back too far.I think this should work OK.
nbturbo ·
Just finished the exhaust.Made in 3 sections with 2 small pipes for the 2 rear cylinders and all the rest is in 1 piece.The primary pipes are 38mm ID,same size as the ports and I opened the flanges up for the pipe to slip inside,then blended out each one to get rid of the shoulder of the pipe.Won't worry about getting any coating done until I am happy with how it works.Just waiting on the rest of the parts for the injection system,get an oil tank and it will be all go.
dangerous ·
What is the latest?
Turbo54 ·
Whats with the door off your yellow oval in the background?
T54
nbturbo ·
Just got home from Adelaide with some stuff for both cars-got all the rollcage hoops and bends for the Drag project-the rebuilt auto for the Oval-another pair of stripped doors for the Oval.The doors leaning against the wall are originals with vent windows,but the passenger one doesn't fit into the door opening anymore?????????.Got another pair(but have been modified for one piece windows) and have trial fitted and done the neccessary bending.Had them stripped and are in excellent condition as well-a couple of pin holes along the bottom of one.Will get them in for a coat of yellow soon.Can fit the trans and motor to my Oval and try to get it finished B4 I concentrate on the Drag car.Need the Oval to tow the Drag car around.I have made the oil tank for the Autocraft motor and have got all the fuel system, bar the pump.Still tracking it down.
nbturbo ·
My L.H. drive pedals,dual circuit M/cylinders and pitman arms turned up yesterday.Got 2 of everything-just in case.Can't wait to get stuck into building the car.
[/URL] [/img]
[ Edited on 10-6-2006 by nbturbo ]
nbturbo ·
Just been chatting with the bloke who did up the Auto trans for my Oval-he has picked up an auto from a 944 Porsche for me if I want it.He is confident it will bolt up to a Kombi or Type3 diff housing and they are a lot stronger than the VW auto.I was thinking of doing it up to fit into my Drag car.Anybody had any experience with these auto's?I have a spare Kombi and a Type3 auto,so could use the diff from either.
seagull ·
~I did talk to a guy in the USA who had a drag bug running an auto box , the motor was mid mount and the diif had been fliped .( oil holes changed )
he had a good run out of it .
The problem is the diff , 2 spider .you need to up grade it to a 4 spider for it to last .
super diff .
I realy dont think the type three auto will hold 200hp for long even with the clutch pack mods you made ( like me )
I realy like the type three auto & collect them when I find them as most get thrown away .
I am about to start my 60 bug and I can say I need a dam good box my self .I have sat on the fence for a long time as getting a gear box to hold over 150hp is not easy as for cost .
You name it I have looked at it every dam gear box out there under 3K au .
If I was building a drag bug ( not road adr ) I would just get a subaru gear box twin sincro 4x4 and then get a front wheel drive liberty box and fit the guts to that & mid mount the motor .You could do this for $1500.00 to $2500.I have a number of very good wrx gear boxes here my self on the shelf .
you could even just fit a 4x4 box & pug off the rear out put so the oil dont run out .
I looked at fliping the subaru manual 4x4 box up side down , but the drive shafts are then very high not only that the oil leval needs to be changed .The diff is then loaded on the other edge not good at all .So I then looked at sending the crown wheel & pinon to my factory in tiwan and getting a left hand set made .But with this in mind the set up need to still go on the left hand side of the box ( box not fliped ) it will not work .
costs came back at US $ 3000.00 for the set up charge .
I looked at also cuting the diff section off and making a plate to relocate the diff from another box .
so in the end were going to order rancho gear boxes yes there going to blow up , but what can you do .
mmm may be a suabaru twin turbo gear box up side down ! shit I have one of them in the shed , back soon :alien
shiftyvw ·
Why rancho gearboxes? you can get all the good components locally and there are quite a few good box builders here in aus. Plus when they do break the builder can repair them locally.
nbturbo ·
Computer's been down for a couple of months(they really piss me off)but I have been busy on my Drag car.Went to the half length strip here in early March with my NB for a test and tune day and got a 9.54sec run which got me fired up.Finished the pan yasterday with the cage all welded.Have got the join ANDRA now to get it inspected.Cut 70mm from the front beam with 1 adjuster and turned the bottom anchor 10mm-may still need to get it a little lower-have got dropped spindles as well.Will be using a single side plate box to begin with-the one I had beefed up to fit the 2.7 Type 4 motor.I have cut the body and had it blasted where it needs rust cut and general repairs.I will do the body work myself this time.Looks like I will have to find some yellow paint from somewhere.I will make the whole back panel from aluminium and it will be removeable.Plastic windows all round as well.Have got all the fitting and brackets to do now-oil and fuel tank,battery etc,B4 stripping completely to paint.
nbturbo ·
Some more
nbturbo ·
I have welded some RHS along the bottom of the pan and had some 3mm plates made and welded them to the RHS,the centre tunnel and stiched the floor pan halves to it.I have welded the roll bar uprights to these 3mm hats.Theres a pic of the jigs I made to bolt the 2 torsion bar tubes together to keep everything in line and square.The gear shift and handbrake cables now work in the new part of the pan and I lengthed the throttle and clutch tubes and bought them out from their original positions and into the new top pan.Have now got a pan that is 4inches lower and 4inches longer wheel base.
[ Edited on 19-3-2007 by nbturbo ]
nbturbo ·
some more
[ Edited on 19-3-2007 by nbturbo ]
dangerous ·
Wow! You have been busy.
Lookin' good!
Dasdubber ·
Nice work Gary - great to see some progress! 👍
nbturbo ·
Finally got my hoist up and running.Ordered it early last August and was supposed to be 10 weeks-got here just B4 Xmas.Early January tried to get somebody in to cut a hole in the shed floor and lay a thick piece of concrete to bolt it down on.Got that done a fortnight ago today and have just finished drilling the cement and wiring it up.As you can see it going at last.Life should get a lot easier around here now when I have to work on some of the toys.
[ Edited on 28-3-2007 by nbturbo ]
pete wood ·
very cool, can you tell us again why you cut the body in half?
nbturbo ·
Geez,can't believe how long it's been since I have done anything with this-bloody Oval had taken over my life.Well it's done now so I can get back into this.I have no real reason for making a ute-just something different and thought with either a lift up rear tray, or panels that just clip on-would be much easier to work on either at home or at the strip.Have been doing some research on what to do with the motor and trans though.The bloke who did the ECU on the Oval and has just had Adam Debias's Oval Drag Car back on the Dyno(hope I can get to Portland to see it run)reckons we can run all electronic injection with Bosch injectors and pump and still run it on Methanol.I am on the lookout for a second hand Turbo and Throttle Body from an XR6 BA Turbo for it.Will have to pull the heads and drop the C/R.
hypo-vw ·
well done so far !! I really like what I see and you look like you are really enjoying your new toys .
Did you think of doing a chop-top and lower the roof for better aerodynamics , as you have gone to an incredible amount of work in modifying the pan and the body to manufacture the rollcage .
Keep up the good work and keep us posted .
nbturbo ·
Yes thought of all different combos-even no roof at all,just the windscreen frame.There is a Karmann Ghia drag car in the States with no roof-looks cool.This thing is hard enough to get in and out of with the normal roof-would have to go on a serious diet if I lowered it.
RossPreen ·
I've been pawing over all the pics of this project and I've got to say you don't do things by halves. The work you have put in is incredible, and I really hope you get the results to match. Well done.
Ross.
nbturbo ·
thanks fellas-got it out of hibernation yesterday and back into my shed.Have cleaned all the dust off ready to attack it again.First job is to cut the frame head off and lift it 3 inches and shift the steering column up etc.Have been on the phone to the bloke who did the auto trans in my Oval-he is doing some research to see if can build an auto to stay together with the torque we are expecting from the Autocraft motor.I am really impressed with the one in my Oval.If it can be done-I will have to do all the mods to the pan to squeeze the auto in.Will be a lot easier than the Oval-it won't matter where the motor ends up in the pan-no cooling issues.
reub ·
any progress on this one? 🙂
nbturbo ·
Geezus Reub-can't believe how long it's been since I have done nothing to it.Spent weeks on my 4X4 getting it ready for a trip across the Simpson in July/August,got a normal job which takes up too much of my life,and have still been trying to catch up with a backlog of work from my previous life.Have been doing research still on the Auto and how I can run a Haltech ECU to change the injection from the old Hilborn mechanical to electronic.Got another body to use which has bugger all rust in it and I cut the other one a bit short anyway.Have been stashing away as much cash as possible for the VEC trip to the USA next year.
reub ·
Bugger. All in good time though...
I may be potentially entering the vw drag car building too, time will tell 😉
nbturbo ·
Please tell all Reub-if you build another car and it is only half as good as VWRX-then we are all in for another treat.So,what are you planning?
nbturbo ·
Took my NB Drag Racing Saturday here and the best I could do was a 9.72 so got the urge again to get my Drag Car going again.Got into it again all day Sunday(with the occasional look at the Supercar race) and made some jigs to let me cut the front off the pan to lift the front beam up 3inches. Stripped a standard beam down to use as a template and got all the jigs welded into place and just finished cutting out the frame head.I have fitted 8mm spacers under the lower bolts to save using castor shims,but think it may be too much.I welded some strengthening pieces to the 2 threaded tubes for the 4 bolts, to stop them pulling thru.One side was already starting to pull.Will sart welding it all up tomorrow night.
nbturbo ·
some more
Turbo54 ·
Gary, You should speak to Mike @ MV Automatics in Blackwood. No.1 with auto boxes.
1 Stirling Rd, Blackwood, SA 5051
p: (08) 8370 0430
He has the orange rodeo ute you might have seen at the drags up your way
Heath
HGFS ·
So, LHD pan & pedals, RHD shell. Which one is it going to be?
Would be cool to see a LHD car.
Your rollcage looks good, did you have a template to build it from or are you that good that you can make it up as you go along??? Nice work either way.
I'm going to need one someday for my car.
Hey it turns out your brother is a supplier of mine, I talk to the little old man every other day at work. Small world. He mentioned you when he saw all the VW's on my screensaver.
Cheers,
Greg
nbturbo ·
He told me he knew somebody into VW's-way over his head-he just doesn't understand.It's going to be LH drive-I got 2 sets of pedals and 2 master cylinders out from the US-just to try something different.Bought the cage bits from a bloke in the Adelaide hills-can't remember his name at the moment-but it will come to me.He builds drift cars/hot rod chassis etc.I had to notch all the ends and weld it in place.(it's come to me-I think it's Leon Walker-Walker Chassis at Inglewood.
Dak-A-Tak ·
You need some where between 7 to 10 degrees lay back on frame head .On mine I cut hole frame head off at join just befor pan so I could make big holes inside for any lines or cables to pass through and weight savings .
Keep the work happen mate .
HGFS ·
Peter that sounds a bit like what I saw on thesamba a while back, have been planning on doing the same on mine. This was laid back 10 degrees from memory, hopefully the pics load up.
I spoke to Adam Deb today about rollcages, he's setting up his bender in the workshop and making a cage for a car soon, so I'll probably get it done by him. Hey Gary next time you're talking to Ray call him Snively Ray he'll have a laugh and know we've been talking 😎
nbturbo ·
Yes Adam knows what's needed for a cage.I have finished welding the frame head mods to lift the front beam.I cut the top plate and the horseshoe shaped piece from inside another spare pan and welded it all onto mine for strength.Just welded some 3mm flat bar on to fill up the gaps after lifting it up.I took out the 8mm spacers and fitted 6mm ones to the lower bolts.I ended up with 10 degrees of + castor so will put the beam back tomorrow to check it out.
nbturbo ·
Finally bit the bullet and decided what I'm doing for a transmission-procastinated for way too long.Used some of the jigs I made to fit the auto trans into my Oval ,and a few different pieces and have cut off the frame horns and have the Bus auto sitting in position ready to fabricate all the hardware to make it fit.Will be a lot easier than the job on my Oval,because it will be solid mounted.
nbturbo ·
Used some of the long weekend to do a bit more.Have fabricated enough of the chassis that mounts the motor and transmission, I have cut off all the jigs that located everything.Used inch and a half chrome moly left over from the roll cage to make the trans cage.Had to cut into the torsion bar tube to have enough room to make the solid front mount.
nbturbo ·
Got the motor in position to make the lower mounts to make sure there is plenty of clearance.
nbturbo ·
Some more progress.The auto conversion is done-shifter is mounted,modified a Type 3 dip stick tube and will use the Type 3 sump pan as well.I couldn't get the shifter cable inside the pan easily,so have most of it along sjde the tunnel.Fitted a brake line lock on the R.H. side of the front frame-got one more flare to do and the brakes are all done.Bought some new rear stub axles and a dry sump tank from the US.Stubs are beetle splines with Kombi CV flanges.Got it back on wheels so I can start doing the steering column and a seat and seat belt mounts.Made some stands to use at the track-modified a pair of torsion bar covers that will stay on the car.Will make a sack truck like device that will hook onto the rear end somewhere and under the front beam lower torsion bar tube.
nbturbo ·
Some more.
dangerous ·
WOW!
Nice work, it is coming along well.
Not long now!
So good to see something done so differently.
Flintstones ·
Looking good Gary👍
Cheers
D
HGFS ·
Yeah you are really getting somewhere, body on time must be in sight now!!
nbturbo ·
Got myself a few more tools to help with my build.Get sick of relying on other people to get jobs done-everybody is so busy.Bought a pipe bender for 3/8 up to 7/8 thin wall tube(up to 1.2mm W/T) and made a stand last night to sit it on and hold all the dies.It also bends 3/4 and 1 inch square tube.Got myself a small Milling Machine-it's got a geared head and dovetailed stand.Got a set of collets and end cutters,6 inch vice and hold down bolts and clamps.Have to build something to sit it on now.Finally got my dry sump tank from the US-very good quality.
Flintstones ·
What, no yellow ute? LoL😁
Cheers
D
nbturbo ·
No-the bastards don't do them anymore in this new model.Will be doing the Drag Car in a bright yellow though.Dino-what"s the latest on your Oval?
nbturbo ·
Made three thin walled steel tubes for the dry sump supply/return oil.Neater than running rubber hoses.Have the 2 return to tank pipes on the LH side with 1/2" fittings and the main pump feed on the RH side with 5/8" fittings.They sit against the lower engine/trans tube and are up out of the way.Will only need to use short joining hoses and will use "O" clamps for all the suction fittings.My new JAZ seat turned up from the US and comes with a nice padded cover.Can now mount the steering column/seat belt anchors etc.Will get a lot more gear for it while in the US in October with Rod on his spending spree.Cant' wait to see him in action.
nbturbo ·
For you Rod-thanks for the quick disconnect coupling.Made an adaptor from 8mm ally and got the wheel from Repco for $50.00.Polished the whole thing to match the wheel.Have 2 holes for the trans brake and the line lock switches.Sent the heads to Adelaide to Chris Milton-no worries about machining the valves.Might need a couple of exhaust valves-but he can source titanium stuff easily.
nbturbo ·
A bit more progress-stripped all the running gear from the pan and finished all the welds off.Made a different front trans mount, and cut off some excess steel from the tunnel that's not needed.Bought a lot of parts in the US late last year and since they arrived I have had another mini working bee.Bought some second hand Pro Series heads for the Autocraft engine with titanium valves, and have had them refurbished and the spring tensions set.Here's some of the stuff i picked up.
nbturbo ·
and some more.Got an aluminium spool for the auto and waiting on new drive flanges-091 to Type 2 CV- with new special seals and bolts.
nbturbo ·
I have finished all the welding on the back end now-just need to get rid of all the welding spatter-shit of a job.Bought some anti spatter spray today to try-really good timing(not).Have got the front beam away being painted-will assemble it all when done,bolt it back on, and then start on the body/seat/steering/harness positions.Got to order a pair of Aero guards for the front and get my fibre glass bloke to get the front bonnet done.
pete wood ·
mmm, bits 😏
nbturbo ·
Been roped in to put this thing back together,so more time lost on my car.It's a Keith Black 570 cu inch Hemi,good for about 2,000 HP.Going to run it first out with blower at 10% over driven.It's getting a new 2 speed Powerglide-so have to do a bit of fabbing for drive plate and starter motor issues.Will be good to see the arse end of it.
Flintstones ·
Nice👍👍👍
what's the hemi going in?
Cheers
D
nbturbo ·
Yes Dino it's a nice package.It's going into a Dodge Challenger that used to have a big Miloden Hemi-but it decided that the main bearing shells were better off sitting in the sump as shapnell.Luckey we got to it B4 a rod came out the side.The 2 blocks a quite different across the front-so have to modify stuff to fit.
nbturbo ·
I have been slowly trying to get bits together for finish this project-can't believe how long it takes to get stuff done.I pulled the heads from the engine to fit the Pro Series ones,and found the cylinders were rooted-tram line tracks down each side.Decided to strip it right down and start fresh.With the engine now apart,thought I might now Turbo it,so can make the changes needed.Had the case machined and line bored,crank and rods balanced and the rods resized.Got new ARP rod bolts and a new set of cam followers and some Autocraft Raceware 10mm head studs.I bought a Turbo grind cam from Autocraft and have clearanced it the same as the old one from the engine.I am waiting on a set of main bearings b4 I can put the case together.Pretty much decided on the colours for the car-yellow body,silver cage and pan and blue suspension bits.
nbturbo ·
The new blue
nbturbo ·
What torque settings are you using for Autocraft cases-mainly the main thru bolts?
dangerous ·
I use 50 ft-lbs.
Make sure you check the main bearing oil clearance,
because this is higher than the original torque(35?) and can reduce the clearance.
The higher torque helps keep the two halves from fretting.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave-just finished putting it together and it spins over just nice.I haven't been able to find any cylinders,so I have bought a metre of hollow bar and will make my own.Need to work out all the sizes so I can end up with about 8:1 C/R and no need for shims under the cylinders.
type4turbo ·
Wow, nice job.
like those autos.
Cheers
nbturbo ·
Dangerous-I have a small lip at the case halves at the rear camshaft opening (easy to feel with a fingernail) I don't remember any locating pins around the outer edge of the case-only the 6 at the main bearing saddles.Thought I would ask B4 I open it up again.Think maybe I should fit the rear plate loosely-then tighten those bolts and the case bolts at the same time.Dave,is there a system to tighten the bolts??
dangerous ·
The old cases I have DO have a recess machined for a small locating sleeve,
on one of the bolts in your picture and also diagonally opposite at the top.
But in my case they have long since gone missing or were removed on purpose.
The six main case through studs should do the majority of the alignment,
but those small sleeves may help your proble.
Often these things have had a hard life in speedway and so, are quite distorted.
Adding those extra small dowels may make things worse!
nbturbo ·
thanks Dave-will open it up for a look.Guess putting the rear plate on and doing all the bolts up together should help.
nbturbo ·
Opened it up and found no other locating sleeves and no spot where any were ever used.I put it back together and used the rear plate to pull it into shape-worked really well-all machined faces are now level.I tried to fit the drive plate today and found it will not work on an Autocraft case-the recessed center shape hits hard on the rear engine plate.I have machined off the rivet heads and drilled them out so I can make a new flat flex plate.Does any body on here have any clues what grade steel I need to find to machine up a new one?Should be fairly simple to do-don't have any issues with starter ring gears etc.I have measured everything and looks like I will only need to make 3 off 7mm spacers to go between the flex plate and the convertor.
dangerous ·
4130 sheet for flex plates.
These guys give great service and are Volksy friendly,
being that they advertise in VWMA.
The VW "Tree of Knowledge" has come good again-thanks Dave.Will ring them for help.
20bkombi ·
I see your still using the 003 box, they have very good ratios. I've worked out how to add a cooler and trans brake to these aswell.
Are you going to build it your self? I am now making higher stall speed converters too.
I can help if you decide to have a go, there not to hard or timely to build.
Good to see you back on the project.
nbturbo ·
Good day Aaron-I couldn't help but get back into it-I saw your auto Type 3 perform at Warwick.No,the 003 has gone and replaced by an 010.I tried to fit the spool to early Bus diff,just wouldn't fit.Contacted Dave Folts,and after a lot of confusion,worked out he only makes the spool to fit the last of the rear engined Bays.The diff housing is slightly bigger and so are the side carrier bearings.Managed to find one fairly quickly and had to modify the front trans mount-they are 10mm shorter than the early ones.I have sent the auto to Adelaide for the overhaul-it's been there for 2 months,and I phoned yesterday to see how it's going to be told it's still sitting where I left it.Been thinking about getting it picked up and doing it myself.Have you sorted your Bus after the troubles at Warwick?
nbturbo ·
dangerous wrote:4130 sheet for flex plates.
These guys give great service and are Volksy friendly,
being that they advertise in VWMA.
Thanks for the info Dave-bought some 3.7mm 4130 sheet and another 6 mts of 11/2" C/M tube.Finished fitting the spool to the diff and a full set of new bearings.Got a good tooth pattern and 0.008" backlash and painted it ready to go in.The cylinders are almost done-just having some plates made to tension them up before final honing.
Flintstones ·
what, it's not yelllow!!??😂
It's looking good Gary
Cheers
D
humpty ·
Good to see your back into it Gary.... I'm really interested in seeing how you go with the auto....
HappyDaze ·
Hey Gary, you don't seem to be paying much attention to handling - you know, going around corners. I assume you will be coming up to Wakefield Park for the Nationals Supersprint, and I'm a bit concerned about the car's ability to handle the 'bendy bits'. You should be able to keep up in a straight line OK, but please do some work on the 'side grip'. Happy New Year. 👍
Cheers, Greg
nbturbo ·
Now Greg-you can clearly see that I can't rebuild a car as quick as you,and it's quite obvious the car is only partly done-but I have some surprises coming.I have wrecked an early Beetle,so I have a good front sway bar to fit and some really good drum brakes and I have found a Bloke who can groove my rear tyres-so I am up for it.How about some dates and I'll mark them on the whiteboard.Happy New Year to you and family as well.
nbturbo ·
humpty wrote:Good to see your back into it Gary.... I'm really interested in seeing how you go with the auto....
---Thanks Humpty--The auto is going to test me as well.Fitting the Type3 auto into my Oval was a lot of work-but worth every minute of drama each time I drive it-so I'm betting this one will turn out the same.Got some local experience to call on this time though-Aaron (20BKombi) has been playing with Bus Auto's,so will pick his brain a bit.
nbturbo ·
The cylinders are finished-ended up with 0.005" clearance.What would be a good ring end gap-was thinking about 0.015" should be good?Got a set of childs&albert rings from Autocraft with the "L" shaped top ring.
HappyDaze ·
That stuff look good enough to eat, Gary.😁 Tell me, can you still say it's air cooled? I recon it will almost be liquid cooled.❓
Cheers, Greg
SuperOwen ·
Alcohol cooled, like many of the members around here......
dangerous ·
5.5 thou per inch on the top ring,
and about 5.7 per inch on the second ring.
If running boost or nitrous,
you may have to run up to 7 thou per inch especially on the top ring.
nbturbo ·
SuperOwen wrote:Alcohol cooled, like many of the members around here......
--No not me-I need the stuff for inspiration.Thanks Dave.
nbturbo ·
Got it closed up at last.Got 0.020 to 0.023 on top and second ring.Really pleased with how the cylinders turned out.Looking for a set of rockers for the 910 heads and some pushrods.Can now start on an intake and exhaust system for it.Will run a single centre throttle body,probably around 80mm.
humpty ·
That's just madness Gary..... Very jealous of your workshop..... And your skills!!!! 👍
nbturbo ·
thanks Humpty-really like my shed and it's taken 10 years to get it set up just how I want it.Was pretty lucky when we found the place with a 30 by 10 metre shed on it.We closed the shop 3 years ago,and thats 17 by 10 metres,and if can get the better half to sell off all the stock,I will have another unreal shed.I will be able to store half a dozen cars at least in there.
nbturbo ·
I bought some new 1.47:1 rockers from Autocraft and trying to set up the geometry-but the pushrods are rubbing hard on the openings in the head and there is definately no room left for the tubes to fit.These are the longest rockers they now sell-the rest are up around 1.7:1.What's the normal fix for this????
dangerous ·
If you are happy with the geometry at the pad and valve tip,
you will have to move the tube hole.
As long as it is not rubbing hard,
all it has to do is "just" clear.
You can either weld it up and move it,
or simply offset and enlarge the hole and seal seat,
then make larger tubes.
I did this just last week on my own. (but the other way).
dangerous ·
The other points worth noting is that Autocraft had a "left" and "right" head
for some versions of their engines,
and also with their rockers.(different offsets in pad to adjuster relationships)
Also the rockers were available with different offset shafts,
but this will only work if your pad geometry is to correct to begin with.
nbturbo ·
Sort of figured that was going to be the fix-I don't know how they could possibly get 1.7's and 1.9's to work at all.Had this thought tonight to mill out the holes about 2mm,then make up a plate the same as the one bolted to the case,and bolt it to the back of the rocker box in the ideal position.Make it out of 6mm ally and just use a gasket to seal it.I reckon to make them in 2 halves with 6 4mm bolts in each one.Will make one to see what it looks like.Thanks again for your info Dave.
nbturbo ·
Still bashing away with it.Got a heap of 1.75" aluminium bends and pipe to start my intake manifold.Have milled the flanges and cut the pipes ready to weld it all up.I have cut a relief into the head side of the flanges,where I will do the welding,then machine the welds back so no welds will be visible from the outside.Finished the Alternator bracket and had it rebuilt.While it was apart,I painted it with brake caliper paint and baked it in an oven to cure it.Have milled 8 holes into a piece of 6mm ally to sort out my pushrod tube drama.Still have to cut them out and work out where to locate them-have to drill and thread each one and seal them up.
reub ·
👍
nbturbo ·
Have ordered a heap of ally fittings from the US to do the oil and breather systems. Got some -6AN swivels to 1/4 BSP to make the fuel rails.These will screw into some extruded ally,then just screw onto the ally injector holders-a lot easier than the rails I made for my Oval.The body is making good progress-he has welded the new front section on,repaired both A pillar bottoms and is a fair way into welding a lip right around the body where I will attach the rear window panel / firewall.The car looks lonely-haven't laid a hand on it for a few months now.
Flintstones ·
nbturbo wrote:.The car looks lonely-haven't laid a hand on it for a few months now.
Don't feel too bad Gary, I haven't worked on mine in almost 3 years!!🙁
Yours is progressing well though and is looking very promising.
What hp numbers are you chasing for this engine combo?
Cheers
D
nbturbo ·
Good day Dino-original goal was to drop into the 6 second bracket for the 1/8th-see what happens when I do that.
HappyDaze ·
nbturbo wrote:Good day Dino-original goal was to drop into the 6 second bracket for the 1/8th-see what happens when I do that.
If I'm still around then, I'll shout you a beer!😂
Cheers, Greg
P.S. Nice work you're doing there, Gary.
nbturbo ·
You had better stay around-I wouldn't mind another trip away with you-still get the occasional laugh from the last one.Going to try and get to the Lake and catch up with you.
nbturbo ·
Does any body have a pic of the tool they use to tension the centre 4 studs on Pro Series heads-the ones you can't get a socket directly on to? What torque numbers do you then use with the Tool?
dangerous ·
It is basically a socket welded to a ring spanner,
or crowsfoot spanner.
The socket(square drive receptical),
is welded far enough along,
to clear what is required.
I use the same tension,
but the tension wrench must be at 90 degrees to the spanner.
technically the tension should be reduced by a factor
calculated with the effective hypotenuse divided into the adjacent side that forms the triangle.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave-that's some serious Trigonometry terms.I did what you suggested there-welded a socket exactly 6'' from the end of the ringy-so do I now halve the foot pound number required for the tension????
dangerous ·
if you keep the tension wrench at 90 degrees to the spanner you can keep the tension the same.
HappyDaze ·
There's a bloke called Pythagoras [not sure if he gets on here] who knows how to work all that stuff out. 😁
Hope to see you at Lake Gairdner, Gary.
Cheers, Greg
dangerous ·
HappyDaze wrote:There's a bloke called Pythagoras [not sure if he gets on here] who knows how to work all that stuff out. 😁
Hope to see you at Lake Gairdner, Gary.
Cheers, Greg
"Allas Poor Thagarus, I knew him well." 😂
nbturbo ·
[Hope to see you at Lake Gairdner, Gary.
Cheers, Greg [/quote] Things aren't looking too good at the moment for that-it has been raining here constantly since last night-and there is a big rain system still in the works coming across from the West which will go right over the Lake.Will have to check to see if there was any rain up there earlier this week.Thanks for the tips Dave.
nbturbo ·
Finally got the pushrod drama sorted-with these new plates I was able to relocate the position of the tubes at the head end.I had to die grind the openings in the head to prevent the pushrods binding thru their travel-it all works good now.I have made a new set of pushrods,but was unlucky to have one tube split down the side as I knocked in the ball end,so have ordered another set from Autocraft-will have plenty of spares now.With the new heads and cylinders and with good rocker ratio,these pushrods are exactly 20mm longer than the originals that came in the engine.Have almost got the intake manifold sorted-still need to make a jig to locate the injector holders while I weld them into position.Have got the body back from the Panel Bloke-he has done an excellent job of cutting all the rust-but he has fabricated new "B" pillars that look like they would be OG from the Factory.Going to send the body to Adelaide to have it acid dipped ready for a coat of Yellow.
dangerous ·
Looks great!
Just a tip with the manifold,
try to make the runners shorter if you can.
Even a balance pipe within the pairs of runners will help.
Otherwise the peak torque will be too low in the RPM and thus power will be lower.
14" to the valve is a good number.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave-so to make the runners shorter,I can only make the plenum larger.
dangerous ·
You could just add a balance tube, the same diameter, across the point where you want your effective runner length to be,
or even better, merge then separate your runners on each siide , again, at that length point .
I would avoid a large plenum if you can help it, the added surface area requires a lot of bracing to resist burst.
nbturbo ·
OK Dave,understand that.What do you run the valve clearance at with the Autocraft tapered pushrods? I am fairly certain they are C/M( I had to machine the ends square when I cut them,looks like C/M when machining) so would zero clearance be the GO??
dangerous ·
Yeah zero is the go.
nbturbo ·
Finally got ithe rocker covers on and finished.Can concentrate on doing all the outside stuff now.Welded the injector holders last night.Made a rough jig to hold them in place while welding and to make sure they are the same both sides and the fuel rails will be the same.Want to start the exhaust,but auto trans is still away being done.Need to bolt engine and trans back into car to fabricate exhaust so it clears everything.
matberry ·
Very nice 👍👍
What sort of hp/boost you shooting for?
nbturbo ·
Was hoping for around 300.Waiting on the new CB fuel injection to be finished to give it a try on this engine-they are hoping for end of May to have it ready.They are still tying up all the loose ends to get rid of any faults.Will get it onto a dyno then to see what we can wring out of it. I am hoping to get smoke out of it by mid year.
matberry ·
Just in time to debut at Warwick.... 👍👍...... 🙂
nbturbo ·
Almost finished the exhaust-waiting on a new wastegate to arrive-need to weld a 38mm pipe just below the turbo with a flange to mount it.Will probably waste the exhaust into the tailpipe.Waiting on a box of Fragola aluminium fittings to arrive,to plumb all the oil and fuel systems.The auto trans is back together,but he is trying to sort out the valve body for manual shift changes.If he can't manage it,I can buy a reverse pattern manual shift valve body from Transaxle Engeneering in the US-they have one on the shelf ready to go.Next couple of months is going to see a lot of this stuff finally coming together.Was going to make a fuel tank,but picked this up for a good price-not worth the drama of trying.All the fittings are -10,so big enough for good flow.
nbturbo ·
Some more progress on the Toy-body is back from being acid dipped-only a couple of rust holes-will be an easy repair.I have marked out all the areas where I am cutting the front to clear the beam and the steering column.Fitted up a mudguard tonight and cleaned the glass bonnet ready to fit.I ended up buying a new reverse pattern,manual shift valve body,chrome moly Audi 5 inch hubs,chrome moly drive shaft and pump flower from the States.Also bought Kevlar bands and Raybestos discs and different steels for the clutch hubs.I have bolted it up to the diff housing and have made another mounting bracket where the 2 join.This will give me 3 mounting positions for the trans in the frame.
nbturbo ·
Spent all weekend cutting out more of the floorpan not needed and added 2 extra side impact bars to the roll cage.The engine and trans have been bolted in for the first time.Modified an OG Type 3 auto shifter and adapted it to suit the Bus shift cable.Can fit the fuel tank and lines and finish the dry sump supply line.Making an ally tube for the turbo drain-will drain straight into the top of the oil tank.The body will be painted by this weekend,so I need to get the pan finished and painted fairly quickly.I am still waiting for CB's new injection system to be finished-date has gone out to early September now before they think it will be ready for sale.
mactaylor ·
dangerous wrote:Looks great!
Just a tip with the manifold,
try to make the runners shorter if you can.
Even a balance pipe within the pairs of runners will help.
Otherwise the peak torque will be too low in the RPM and thus power will be lower.
14" to the valve is a good number.
so dave if you run a singular pipe each way to a merged manifold end like a standard intake with the magic 14" that is the go? am i understanding this correct? it cant be that easy is it? that is what they describe as pulse reversion?
nbturbo ·
I haven't done the manifold yet-trying to figure the easiest way to change it to get near 14".
westi ·
do the oposite of your exhaust 1 int 2 into 4.
use bends rather than a box.air doesn't stop and turn.
westi ·
maybe something like this
westi ·
sorry it's been awhile.
i can't get the picture to come up just the link.
nbturbo ·
Yes I can make something like that.Probably won't be able to get the welds so neat though.Dangerous-would a 5/8" ID supply line from the dry sump tank to the pump be big enough? I can go to a 3/4" ID if needed.
HappyDaze ·
G'day Gary, The bloke who made the dry-sump tank for my Sports Sedan fitted a 3/4" fitting to the bottom. He [a very experienced racer] said that it if the 'suction' line to the pump is too small, then cavitation can happen - VERY NASTY! I ran a 3/4' ID hose to the pump - my tank was in a similar position to yours. Hope you don't mind me butting in Dave.😁
Cheers, Greg
dangerous ·
Butt-in all you like Greg, that is what forums are all about!
I would agree with those comments,
only to add that the longer your line is, the larger diameter it should be to prevent the cavitation.
nbturbo ·
dangerous wrote:Butt-in all you like Greg, that is what forums are all about!
I would agree with those comments,
only to add that the longer your line is, the larger diameter it should be to prevent the cavitation.
I agree Dangerous-I have learnt a lot during my visits here over the years.My tank has -12 fittings and the pump inlet is -8. I have some 25mm ally tube which I can make fittings for, which will give me a good supply volume to the pump.I was thinking the 5/8 may have been a bit small for the length of the run-thanks for confirming.
nbturbo ·
Bought a stainless 12volt,20mm ID solenoid valve to go in the suction side of the pump.Will be energised with the ignition "on" switch.Finished my breather tank-made from 100X50 Ally tube-got everything going into it,including the trans,diff and dry sump tank.Finished all the ally pipe work for the engines oil system.Dangerous,I am making the brackets for the wheely bars-what are your thoughts on hanging them off the IRS trailing arms-just near the lower shocker mount???.
nbturbo ·
Brought the body home tonight-now I have triplets in the yard-only this one is a lot brighter than the other 2.When I checked on it yesterday morning it was white,this afternoon it's very yellow.Very pleased with the way it turned out.Put the new dash plates in already.
nbturbo ·
Got the mirror off ebay for the vintage 60's look.
cjbolt051 ·
very nice Gary .. I am really starting to appreciate all the manufacturing and fabricating you have had to do .. hat of to you for your work
nbturbo ·
Thanks-I see from your work that the 5'' angle grinder has become your best friend as well.If my plans come together as I am hoping-I will be able to have a run with you at Portland next Feruary.I plan on getting to Warwick to catch up with all you Blokes again.
nbturbo ·
Fitted a few bits to the body and put 1 door together.Roll cage / pan has been Teched and it's away being painted.Pan will be back early next week-then the fun begins.
hellbugged ·
awsome!
been waiting to see what happens from the doors back 👍
beetleboyjeff ·
Maybe it will be a different car - that is how Herbie did it in one race. lol
HappyDaze ·
Amazing.👍
Where's the rest of it, Gary.......or are you just a 'Front man'?
nbturbo ·
You know me Greg-" tail " end Charlie - so be alert.
HappyDaze ·
nbturbo wrote:You know me Greg-" tail " end Charlie - so be alert.
I'm not sure if I want to be a 'lert'. What is a 'lert', anyway? 😏
beetleboyjeff ·
I thought you must have got that far, then ran out of money. :-)
nbturbo ·
I have everything now except the fuel injection-let the assembly begin.
debiasi4 ·
Looks fantastic Gary.
Cheers Adam
JVLRacing ·
popcorn eating VERYNICE😎
nbturbo ·
Been in Sydney for a week-got home late last night,so not much action.Put all the front suspension,steering, brakes,pedals and shifter on tonight and finished the beading in the front guards.What do all you Blokes use for shockers front and rear-anything fancy or just standard stuff?
matberry ·
Cars looking the part, good work 👍
Shocks depend on budget.....for drags tho, I tend towards Koni rear for adjustability and very worn out stock fronts, the type with no oil left in them for the front 🙂 .....or Koni's in the front to, but you'll need to get them revalved, but then you get adjustability in the front too.
20bkombi ·
Could also try rancho 9000's, 5 point adjust by a knob or in cab. I've used them in my bus for over eight years, tuning them as my power increased.
Looking very cool!!!
nbturbo ·
Thanks fellas-will chase that info up.
dangerous ·
I use stock oil KYB at the front and KYB gas offroad for the rear.
Adsjustable is good if you need to dial it in,
and your extra rear weight will require some interesting spring rate,
and thus a shock that can control it.
whathaveidone ·
Ive got LJ torana 90/10s on the front. Off the shelf from pedders. They have very short travel so no need for limiting straps.
nbturbo ·
Thanks- do the Torana ones fit a Link Pin beam?
whathaveidone ·
Yep, you just have to drill the spacer out on the shock and the go straight on. Will get some good pics for you tomorrow.
whathaveidone ·
Here the promised pics. A little late!!!
Thats at almost full extension and wheel is still on the ground
humpty ·
Now there's a good tip!.... Have been looking into 90/10's for a while now.... You wouldn't have a part number would you? 😍
Cheers for that Ben....
whathaveidone ·
There LJ torana. Pedders had them on the shelf. No ordering in. Cant remember price. maybe $250-$300
humpty ·
Cool....
nbturbo ·
Thanks for the pics-that makes the choice real easy for me now.
essex ·
I have chosen the same, they were less than $200.00.
this is an old pic, i havent got any rears yet either
[/img]
nbturbo ·
Ben-fitted the headlight decals,very nice.I buggered the first one up-couldn't get all the air bubbles out.So made a weak soap solution and sprayed the area-went on like a dream-thanks for organising.Will fix you up in Warwick.Started on the panel to go across the body-done the lower bit.Fitted all the rear end now-brakes and hoses,drive shafts,torsion bars etc.Bought this 12volt solenoid valve to go in the suction line to the dry sump tank-will be energised with the ignition switch.
hypo-vw ·
outstanding job Gary !! very impressed indeed . thanks for the updates mate and see you at Warwick
nbturbo ·
A few more
nbturbo ·
This is the breather box finished and painted.Yes starting to count the sleeps.
humpty ·
Love those headlight decals..... Very cool.... Hadn't noticed the steering column placements before.... Did you lift the beam/framehead up on the pan?
Flintstones ·
Looking real good now Gary👍👍
Cheers
D
nbturbo ·
Yes Humpty-grafted another frame head on,but lifted it 3 inches and laid it back 10 degrees.You can see where I had to cut the body to get the column through.
miccro ·
good work, should be fun.
- interested in the 90/10's - are they rated for vw beetle weight. as most 90/10's are set for front ended v8 tolerances. you can easily get front lift at the end of the 1/4 when letting off the gas. in the UK we lost 2 cars going through the gates at over 115mph. i know the american guys often still use them but alot only run 1/8 miles. all the uk guys stopped using them quick.
should put the wheels up for you at the lights tho 🙂
mike
nbturbo ·
After my trip to Warwick and some discussion with Wayne Penrose,he suggested my fuel rails are too small with -6 fittings,so made some new ones to take -10 fittings and hose.Have done another order for ally fittings and Methanol resistant hose from the US-should be here early next week.Still waiting on CB's new fuel injection to be done so I can get a system sent out.Starting to get close now to needing it.Finished mounting the glass bonnet and had to make a few of the fittings.
Turbo54 ·
I was talking to Mike at MV and he said he was building your box for you. Top Bloke Mike, been helping him do some stuff for the Ute.
Car is looking great, love the look of the front end.
T54
nbturbo ·
Seem to be spending hours on this with not much progress.Spent quite a few weeks sorting out the injection with Pat from CB's and he finally came up with a good working system,which included the ECU,cam and crank sensors,coil packs and all the sensors needed for ECU inputs.I have also ordered Aeromotive filters,1400HP fuel pump and a pressure reg.I have still got to buy some 120lb injectors,but they are readily available.Now that I will be using CB's crank sensor,the main relief valve and piping that went behind the crank pulley has to go.It will get in the way,because the room is needed for a bracket to hold the probe.I have made all new fittings and shifted the main relief valve line to come out the back and into the bottom of the fitting on the pump.I had to buy some more slicks for the back-the 28x9's ran too close to the spring plates,so will try some 26x8's.Was going to try some spacers to shift the wheels out,but it got too hard.
nbturbo ·
Further to my discussion with Wayne about fuel requirements-and also with a bloke at Aeromotive,I have welded a -12 bung into my fuel tank and will be -12 lines to the pre filter,the suction side of the pump and to the secondary fitlter.From there it will be -10 back to the pressure reg and the return line to the tank.
Pork Sword ·
Hey Gary,
I sent an email to Ray for him to forward you about my car, I couldn't get my old username on here sorted out so had to make a new one.
Your car is coming together nicely, I haven't seen the pics of it since you painted it - couldn't log on... -12 fuel - massive!!
What are you doing with your 28x9 slicks? That's the size I want to use.
Cheers,
Greg
nbturbo ·
Yes got the photos-top quality build happening there with the best bits available going into it.Tried to catch you over Xmas to have a perve on it.I did a rework on the rear stub axles-machined the bearing/seal collars to move the stubs out 9mm each side and reshimmed the calipers and mounting plates to suit.I think I now have enough tyre to springplate clearance.Will wait until I have it mobile to check it out.Bought another set of slicks which I may now not need.Would like to come round next time I am in Town for a look.
Pork Sword ·
Yeah Christmas was a busy time, by the time I realised you had called you were gone, didn't check my work phone while I had those few days off. Would be good to chew the fat next time you're in town!
Sounds like lots of work to get the clearance, hope you've got it nailed... This thing will be mental on the track! Can't wait till mine's all shiny like this, will be a while
Turbo54 ·
Pork Sword, nice new user name greg. Good to catch up the other day. Let me know when your free so I can come around and check out the beast.
Gary, what fittings are you using? Earls, Speedflow etc?
Heath
nbturbo ·
Heath,have used all "Fragola Performance Systems" fittings in the Push-Lite 8000 series.I have also bought their hose to use for the fuel system-methanol compatible.I have used hose from here for the oil side-also push on stuff.I have used the "O" clamps on any thing with pressure and nothing on the suction side.Once you push the hose on,it will not come off-any mistakes it has to be cut off.
Turbo54 ·
Hi Gary, where did you by them from? I am looking at speed flow fittings but would like a quote from another supplier for a comparison.
Thanks heath
nbturbo ·
Flew over to Perth yesterday to go to the Motoplex Drag Racing today-what an unbelievable complex. Witnessing some awesome cars and a really slick run show. Bit disappointed though-not one VW in sight. Only VW thing I've seen was a bloke with a VW T shirt.
reub ·
LOL. Yeah, kwinana is awesome. I look forward to taking vwrx down there later in the year.
humpty ·
nbturbo wrote:Flew over to Perth yesterday to go to the Motoplex Drag Racing today-what an unbelievable complex. Witnessing some awesome cars and a really slick run show. Bit disappointed though-not one VW in sight. Only VW thing I've seen was a bloke with a VW T shirt.
No one here with a purpose built Drag Dub.... The only one that is here in WA hasn't run for a 20 years!.... And yes you are correct.... The Motorplex is an amazing place.... We are incredibly lucky here in WA.
nbturbo ·
A question for the experts out there-I bought some adjustable spring plates and the ally 4 bolt retainers with the bronze bushes-what do I use for the inner bushes,standard VW rubber ones or something special? I have just finished modifying some rear suspension arms-done the swap from side to side to give me less -ve camber,so decided to add some brackets if I need to make wheelie bars down the track.Wondering if they are on the suspension,will they work OK? Got my exhaust back from having the heat proof coating put on,very pleased with the result.
whathaveidone ·
I used standed rubbers on mine but had to die grind the insides out so they fit on my spring plates. I couldnt find any urethane that would fit. I have a set that im going to machine both inside and outside when i figure out how to hold them in the lathe without squashing them!!!
matberry ·
I generally use a stock rubber inside bush with the alloy springplate cover.
I wouldn't recommend mounting the wheelie bars to the suspension. I believe it will unload the tyre as the wheelie bars take up. Usually chassis mounted.
cnfabo ·
wow,really loving this thread...the colour combo works good too...
nbturbo ·
Thanks fellas-I got on top of it. Used standard VW inners,but had to do a lot of work on them on the belt sander. Reduced their thickness to around 28mm and put a large chamfer on the inner diameter-all OK. I had to machine some spacers to go between the ally spring plate retainers and the torsion bar tube. Without spacers it all locked up-is that normal?
matberry ·
Yes, the spacers normally come with the spring plates. Needto space out for the double springplate thickness.
nbturbo ·
OK-mine didn't come with anything extra.It's all back together-waiting for my suspension arms to be painted then just play with getting the ride height adjusted. Thanks for your help.
nbturbo ·
Still plugging away at it.Rear arms are done and in.Got sick of trying to do up the pivot bolts a flat at a time,so bought some 17mm hex bar and modified the bolts-so easy now.1400HP fuel pump,filters and pressure regulator arrived but still waiting on the O ring ally fittings to suit.Have started on the rear guard to get it ready to do a fibreglass mould.Used the back half of 2 fronts and added 130mm flat to get the width to cover the slicks.Almost finished welding the pie cuts then need to dress it all up and give it a coat of bog and primer.I found these exhaust nuts from the US-8mm thread with a 3/8 AF outside-will fit the tightest spots.
nbturbo ·
Some more
nbturbo ·
And more
nbturbo ·
Had a bit of drama with the drive shafts.When I originally set all this up I had a 74 auto trans assembly fitted.It was all mounted and I had a Forum Member make me 2 new drive shafts to suit.When I stripped the diff to fit the new ally full spool,I couldn't get it in and after some confusion with Dave Folts,discovered that I needed a later Vanagon trans.I quickly found one and had to slighty modify the front mount and left it at that.Went to fit the drive shafts last week and no way they will go in.Did some measuring and found the Vanagon is much wider than the early trans.The same bloke who did my first set of drive shafts is going to do another shorter pair for me-much appreciated.
hypo-vw ·
Hi Gary , are you not able to trim the driveshafts shorter to fit them ? I purchased chromoly race axles from US which were 19.5" in length and I had to shorten them to 18.5" to suit my application , and there is plenty of spline left for the CV joints .
nbturbo ·
No Wayne-there is only enough spline to get the CV's on. The extra long splines don't cause any issues with the CV staying centralised?
hypo-vw ·
nbturbo wrote:The extra long splines don't cause any issues with the CV staying centralised?
I have never used them before Gary and I really dont know mate . Ben Ford is using them on his supercharged drag bug and has no issue at all with the axles and Porsche CV's , but mine run at a very steep angle as the engine and tranny have been pushed 6" forward in the new circuit car .
BTW love the progress and the pics of your ute ...awesome mate !!
nbturbo ·
more small steps.Got online this morning with Mark from CB Performance and he has loaded my ECU with spark and fuel maps to start the engine.I have finished the fuel system and have only to now finish the Flex plate and I can run the engine.Will pull the motor tomorrow to do final measurements.Being that close-I have started building a new trailer to cart it around.Have made it 5m long and 2.4 wide and will build a 2m high top for it.Have made the rear floor ( 2metres ) so that I can lower it to get better acces.The rear door (2mtres high ) will fold down,which will also become the loading ramp.
whathaveidone ·
looks awsome!!! Like the idea of the floor droping down👍
tar76 ·
👍 Niceee
Flintstones ·
Gary, that's looking real nice👍👍
especially that shot of it on the hoist
Cheers
D
nbturbo ·
Still at it-1 for you Dave Stoker-the drive shafts are painted and fitted,and measurements were spot on.I have also started building the side panels for the back half.I have fabricated ally panels that get bolted to the rear of the cab,and the side will weld to these panels.I have made a template and it's all at the metal fabricaters being rolled and folded.Have finished the floor of the trailer and will make the draw bar tomorrow night.Ordered the springs and rockers,axles,hubs and brakes on Monday which will be here early next week.The bloke doing the rear glass guards has finished the mould and will have 2 guards ready for me next Tuesday.I picked up my steel guard used for the mould today-will hang it in the shed somewhere.
nbturbo ·
for Dave Stoker
nbturbo ·
While waiting for a few jobs to still be done by outside sources,decided to get back on to the flex plate.Have made the crankshaft boss with a 10mm flange-to give me enough to bolt the chrome moly flex plate to.Have cut out the chromemoly plate inside and outside diameters.Will try to get some 8 X 20mm (1mm pitch) in 12.9 grade or 5/16 UNF grade 8"s.I have drilled and tapped the boss in 6mm so I can use some jacking bolts to get it off the crank.
nbturbo ·
Henry S put me onto these pins to let me take the drivers door off to help loading it into the trailer.Can't steer it because of the poly windows.
Turbo54 ·
Very Cool Gary.
If you are putting a rear tray on it like it looks like your doing, I would put swage lines matching the cab near the top edge in. Just a little fold to carry it on.
Like this. Loving the fat guards.
Also what is the story with the fuel rails not going straight into the injectors? Why the fittings and length of hose? Just thought it would be shorter for the fuel to run and less parts.
Thanks
Heath
Thanks Dave-exactly what I need. Will contact them.
nbturbo ·
Turbo54 wrote:Very Cool Gary.
If you are putting a rear tray on it like it looks like your doing, I would put swage lines matching the cab near the top edge in. Just a little fold to carry it on.
Like this. Loving the fat guards.
Also what is the story with the fuel rails not going straight into the injectors? Why the fittings and length of hose? Just thought it would be shorter for the fuel to run and less parts.
Thanks
Heath
. If you check out the pic of the cab-you will see the ally panel bolted to the cab which the side panels will be attached to. The body crease line will go right to the back. I am having the panels made at the moment from 1.5pm ally.
Turbo54 ·
Sweet cant wait
Turbo54 ·
Sweet cant wait
Pork Sword ·
nbturbo wrote:Henry S put me onto these pins to let me take the drivers door off to help loading it into the trailer.Can't steer it because of the poly windows.
Hey Gary, what diameter and length are those pins?
Cheers,
Greg
nbturbo ·
Good day Greg - 8mm X 70mm grip length. Haven't fitted them yet- hoping to get the OG pins out and not doing too much damage.
Started the ally frame for all the side panels to clip onto.This is the front half put together,need to take it off now to fully weld all the joints.It's made of 20mm ally tube and I can't believe how strong it is and yet so light.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looking really good mate!! Can't wait to hear and see the results on the track!! I guess you more than anyone would want to as well lol
20bkombi ·
Looking very nice!!
Did you up grade to 930 style cv's, or still kombi?
nbturbo ·
I stayed with Kombi CVs-but I bought some in the States with balls twice as big as standard ones and of course much deeper and wider tracks for them to run in. Will run with them and see how we go.
HappyDaze ·
Gary, that's just what you'll need when you get that car going.......big balls.😁
20bkombi ·
It's mainly the cages that break, and after that the shafts,
but sounds like those us ones may be strong enough,if you don't
use a trans brake.
nbturbo ·
HappyDaze wrote:Gary, that's just what you'll need when you get that car going.......big balls.😁
. Well Greg,guess we will have to give you the steering wheel,because rumor has it,that your "Wedding Tackle" is more than big enough to do the job.
nbturbo ·
An update-progress is so slow.I had organised a Sheet Metal Fabricator here to do the ute sides for me.I took 2 sheets of ally and the template there early this year.After many montse of no progress,I took it all away late June and made a decission to have a go myself-this is getting to be the norm around here.I bought a set of rollers from Ebay and fabricated a stand for them.Made the first panel yesterday-took about 1/2 hour to roll it and another hour to trim it all up.Very pleased with the out come.I have been asked to put the car in the annual show here in our Drag Club display shed,so putting in a bit of effort.It will be a work in progress.Still making the rear engine plate.Just need to mill all the mounting holes and the engine can finally stay bolted in position.Have finished welding the underside of my trailer and have turned it over to finish welding the chassis,then can start building the frame.
nbturbo ·
Another 1 from behind-I bought a new camera and the shots aren't real clear-will have to work on that.
1916baja ·
That's cool! So different!
Flintstones ·
the rear panels look very nice Gary.
I know what you mean about people that you've asked to make items for you and they still cant/wont do what you've asked😬
At least you know doing it yourself that the final product is perfect.
Cheers
D
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Sides look awesome Gary!! Sometimes its better to do it yourself and get the result you want not what someone elses interpretation. Can't wait to see it all painted!!!
nbturbo ·
Yes I am very pleased with how the first one turned out. A couple of months ago I was almost at the point of saying " xxck" it. I was way over trying to get stuff done around here in a reasonable time with average quality - but prices were always Rolls Royce standards. The side panels were the last straw,but decided the bastards weren't going to beat me. Reckon I may have to get the spray gun out and paint it myself as well.
nbturbo ·
Made another 1 last night-on a roll now.
nbturbo ·
Got my new rear engine plate machined-have to drill all the mounting holes still.It's made with 5mm extra ally at the trans mounting face and the spigot to locate the bellhousing-but the rest of it is exactly the same dimentions as the OG Autocraft plate.
nbturbo ·
I have finished the drive plate and crank hub but still need to drill the engine plate.Couldnt figure how to hold the 2 plates together to everything lined up.Machined a solid slug and I will use 2 6mm set screws to bolt both plates to the centre slug.I had to modify the flywheel nut - added a spigot for the convertor spindle to locate in.If I have done all my measuring correctly-I will need three 7mm spacers to go between the flex plate and the convertor.
hypo-vw ·
I love the look of the body mods on your ute Gary . Looks like an old-school hotrod 👍👍👍 well done mate
nbturbo ·
Thanks Wayne-it's turned out exactly the same as the vision I had about 5 years ago when I decided to have a Drag Strip only car. Will catch up with your tribe again in Warwick.
20bkombi ·
Nice work Gary!!!
I was wondering if you were going to make something to locate the converter spigot.
nbturbo ·
Aaron,was hoping the covertor spigot would seat in the flywheel bolt,but with thicker engine plate,and the spacers between the flex plate and the convertor,it doesn't quite reach. Welding that sleeve to the bolt was the easiest way I could come up with a fix.
nbturbo ·
Finally got the TPS,cam and crank angle sensors adjusted and run the engine.Gave it 4 runs about 5 minutes each to bed the cam and rings.I made a self primer to get oil through the engine B4 starting and it came up 110PSI straight away.We kept an eye on cylinder and barrel temps with an infared reader and it was all good.The thing sounds awesome.Had some trouble in the bell housing with the trans drive plate.Haven't worked out what happened yet-but the crank nut came loose and sheered off all the dowell pins.Have managed to drill them all out and have ordered new ones from Autocraft along with some new crank nuts.It damaged the new crank hub I made,so have just finished making a new one.I made this one 1mm thicker at the drive plate mounting face-to give me that little bit more room for the torque convertor bolts to clear.Have just got to take .020" off the thrust face to give me .005" crank end float.Bought another piece of 6061 T-6 ally plate to make another rear engine mounting plate.I stuffed up my measurements by 2mm with the first one.It only gave me 1mm end float for the torque convertor,when I need 3mm.
nbturbo ·
For you Aaron-I cut the convertor open tonight-looks like I may have been done.The only mod I can see is the vanes have been bronze welded.See what you think about it.
nbturbo ·
One more.I may be able to drill the front mounting spigot spot welds out, and make a new one a bit longer to seat into the crank nut.The bronze thrust washers all look new.
tar76 ·
👍
20bkombi ·
Thanks for cutting it open for me.
Did those measurements help when cutting it open??
From the photos it looks like the tips of the pump fins are bent over ( not the prittiest ).
Both the stator and turbine are stock with brass thrust bushes. The bushes you can't buy new.
Needle rollers Help a lot with stall speed, friction heat and life of the converter.
I think this converter would be good for about 4-600 rpm higher than stock, depending if you can make boost down low.
When you fix the spigot make sure the holes are clear under the pump drive.
Check internal end float before you weld it too.
I have a few more tricks that you can do to that stock converter if you want more rpm.
humpty ·
I really like how that ute tray is working out Gary... The next challenge is how you finish it around the back of the car... Really looking forward to seeing how you go there.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Aaron for the tips- still have a 3mm shoulder to locate both halves to join them again. I will have a good look at the spigot for the pump drive. This whole thing may well yet end up in a box and be heading in your direction. I will run the car first with the OG convertor have here to see how it reacts with turbo spool and how I go holding it on the brakes. Will keep you informed. Humpty-was hoping to get a Bus rear engine lid done in fiberglass and build it into the rear panel. Will have to have someway of stopping air getting trapped in the cover- will probably leave a 6 inch gap just under the spoiler panel
nbturbo ·
Just finished drilling all the holes in version 3 of the rear engine mounting plate.OG is 10mm thick,version 2 was 15mm thick and the new one is 18mm thick.The blue cylinder behind the plates is an old fire extinguisher.I welded a 1/2 inch socket on the bottom and modified the top fitting to screw an airline with pressure reg.I used it as a pre luber before I started the engine.Set the pressure at about 15 PSI and pressure fed the oil system.Oil pressure came up straight away after it fired.
humpty ·
nbturbo wrote:The blue cylinder behind the plates is an old fire extinguisher.I welded a 1/2 inch socket on the bottom and modified the top fitting to screw an airline with pressure reg.I used it as a pre luber before I started the engine.Set the pressure at about 15 PSI and pressure fed the oil system.Oil pressure came up straight away after it fired.
Very clever.... 👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Great idea!!
modnrod ·
Old fire extinguisher bottles (still in date) make great NO2 bottles too, and polish up really well.
Uhm.
Ahem.
Or so I've heard........
BeetleJuice ·
Congrats, that looks SENSATIONAL!
nbturbo ·
modnrod wrote:Old fire extinguisher bottles (still in date) make great NO2 bottles too, and polish up really well.
Uhm.
Ahem.
Or so I've heard........
That sounds interesting.How do you get them filled?They may polish up OK,but unless they are stainless,they go off fairly quickly.They get surface rust on them.
nbturbo ·
Got everything finished to put this all back together. Was wondering if .005 thou crank end float was a little too tight? I set it up last time with .004 and it turned to shit at the crank flange. Still haven't figured what went wrong.
modnrod ·
nbturbo wrote:
modnrod wrote:Old fire extinguisher bottles (still in date) make great NO2 bottles too, and polish up really well.
Uhm.
Ahem.
Or so I've heard........
That sounds interesting.How do you get them filled?They may polish up OK,but unless they are stainless,they go off fairly quickly.They get surface rust on them.
Oops. Bugger. Missed this completely, sorry man.
2.5kg and 5kg Dry Foam extinguisher bottles are alloy. The inlet for the proper NO2 valve needs tapping, from memory 1.1/8" BSP? Maybe?
Easily measured anyway.
Nowadays $200 for a bottle is not a lot, way back then they were still $200, and that used to be heaps.
dangerous ·
nbturbo wrote:Got everything finished to put this all back together. Was wondering if .005 thou crank end float was a little too tight? I set it up last time with .004 and it turned to shit at the crank flange. Still haven't figured what went wrong.
This is common with flanged cranks.
I like.007" or more on flanged cranks, but the new bearings these days are not as good material and layers as the old days.
You can try an oil hole, 1mm, from the gallery thru the bearing to the flange face, and also coating the bearing shells,
but in the end, a quality steel backed thrust bearing is the best option.
Have a look at this post for some options: http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=59063&page=2
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave- will give it another .002 then.
nbturbo ·
Made the last piece of the puzzle tonight.Had to make a new crank nut with a spigot to hold the torque convertor. Last one I made from stock round bar,but come up with a better idea this time.I ended up with plenty of new crank nuts,so I machined the hex off one,made an ally slug to line it and the crank nut together and migged 4 welds to hold it together.Have to get a new O ring tomorrow for the crank hub and I can lock it all up. The new hub is really tight on the dowell pins,so have to use these jacking bolts to get it off each time.I ended up with .008" crank end float.
nbturbo ·
I may have asked for help before about the tension of the crank flywheel nut- but can't find where. I have a C/M 1/34 nut and was wondering what you blokes tension them to. Do you oil the thread or Loctite it?
dangerous ·
Always lubricate the threads and nut face.
I use anti-seize, but at least use oil.
Those big nuts can hadle plenty of torque.
Standard is 217ft-lbs, but I like to use as much as 500 with aftermarket FW bolts.
You may like to choose something like 350 to 400.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave- once again,always able to help. You certainly are an early bird.
nbturbo ·
Finally got it back together again and run the engine.Have run it through all gears and it changes OK.Still having trouble with it overfuelling on shut down-so I have put the fuel pump on a separate switch so I can turn off the fuel pump B4 turning off the ignition.It runs for only a few seconds to shut down and now restarts OK.
dangerous ·
Nice work Gary.
good to see a nice result from all your hard work!
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
Well done dude, look forward to seeing this car go!
nbturbo ·
I am very happy now- it runs and had no breakages,oil leaks or internal rattles. I ran it for about 40 minutes today and the only noise is the tappets when it gets hot. I checked hot clearance and it's around .008" - so all is good. I have booked it for dyno time- but can't get in until 8th April, so will have time to finish off the rear body panels and paint.
Flintstones ·
Sounds nice Gary!!
Can't wait to see vids of this at the track.
Cheers
D
nbturbo ·
Another update of this (can't believe how long it's taking) project.Finished the RH side ute body at last and made some of the top panels from some scrap ally. I can use these panels as templates when I redo them in good material.Only a week to go until it's first dyno run-so looking forward to getting that over with.And I did something last week end I never thought would happen to me-I bought my first 12 volt Beetle.The wife wants it for a fun car to run around town with.She should be sick of it fairly quickly-so I can see another project car in the future.Have got something in mind that is way outside the norm.
stoker ·
NB, what ever you do dont let her call it betty, dorris, herbie or matilda? SHIT i hate those dumb-ass names
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Couldn't agree with you more stoker!! One of the biggest thing I hate about the kombi club forums. Everyone has a stupid name for their kombi!!
Looking good Gary!! Can't wait to hear and see some footage of it in anger!!
nbturbo ·
Bit late Dave- I had to go to Adelaide on Good Friday to pick it up- she asks me to look after Vera on the way home. I hate that shit.
HappyDaze ·
I had one of them once, Gary.........it would veer to the left a bit.😂
dangerous ·
stoker wrote:NB, what ever you do dont let her call it betty, dorris, herbie or matilda? SHIT i hate those dumb-ass names
Hey!
Those are my childrens names!
Foot in mouth disease. 😂
stoker ·
gary,when she is having a bath just throw the hair dryer in,no more vera problems!!!
DB MY CHILDRENS NAMES, WTF,have you been poking it around up there on the sly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nbturbo ·
Dave- tried the hair dryer- but forgot to plug it in. Next time. If Dangerous has 4 kids- it's a wonder he has enough time to do the awesome VW work- or money.
dangerous ·
Haha, no kids for me. just me and my machines. 🤓
20bkombi ·
nbturbo wrote:I am very happy now- it runs and had no breakages,oil leaks or internal rattles. I ran it for about 40 minutes today and the only noise is the tappets when it gets hot. I checked hot clearance and it's around .008" - so all is good. I have booked it for dyno time- but can't get in until 8th April, so will have time to finish off the rear body panels and paint.
The car is looking very cool!
Will you be running it in more before the dyno?
What are the plans for the dyno, fuel, rpm, manifold pressure?
Can't wait to see the out come and then some track time!!
nbturbo ·
[The car is looking very cool!
Will you be running it in more before the dyno?
What are the plans for the dyno, fuel, rpm, manifold pressure?
Can't wait to see the out come and then some track time!! [/quote]
Aaron,I have run the engine now for about 1 hour to bed the rings and cam-that should be good for some dyno runs.The dyno will tell us where to set the fuel and spark table and where it gets it max HP and torque.It runs way too fat on fuel at the moment up to 3K RPM,but that could change once I get some boost into it.I have a 9LB spring in it at the moment,so will run with that to get a feel for the car and how to get the trans to hook up with the standard convertor.
hypo-vw ·
looking forward to seeing great results on the dyno and seeing your ute run Gary after such a massive build . Well done mate 👍👍
nbturbo ·
Had the Dyno tune done today - very pleased with the results. It blew out a pushrods tube seal- they are new and they all look like they are going tp split. They are the normal white ones. Is there something better available? The engine is running 100 psi oil pressure when it's hot at full revs. Is this too much? It keeps popping the O ring on the Geers ally filter.
typethreeking ·
So what was the figures like??
dangerous ·
nbturbo wrote:Had the Dyno tune done today - very pleased with the results. It blew out a pushrods tube seal- they are new and they all look like they are going tp split. They are the normal white ones. Is there something better available? The engine is running 100 psi oil pressure when it's hot at full revs. Is this too much? It keeps popping the O ring on the Geers ally filter.
I only use the Elring ones that normally come in the gasket kits of the same brand.
If the seal has popped out it may have too much tension on the adjustable tube,
or your pushrods were flexing and doing the old rubadubdub.
100psi hot means that the filter is seeing a whole lot more than that! Especially cold!
Your pressure relief valve should be 70 or 75psi from Autocraft.
make sure it is plumbed in the correct orientation!
If all that is good, your oil viscosity is likely too high.
Doug Sweetman ·
Did I mention I learn stuff every time Dave posts on here ?
First time I ever heard of popping a pushrod tube seal, is this common ?
matberry ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Did I mention I learn stuff every time Dave posts on here ?
First time I ever heard of popping a pushrod tube seal, is this common ?
I have a car in presently popping Scat adj. pushrod tube o-rings.......
Yeah, good post DB, the Elring seals are silicone (slippery) not rubber in the other kit's or supplied with the tubes, deffo too much oil pressure for me. I'm thinking oil viscosity, what are you running?
nbturbo ·
Yes- same with me- always learning new stuff from Dave. You set me straight on the relief valve plumbing when I first bought the engine. I am sure the seal just turned to shit and was pushed out by the pushrod tube. I will try and get some Elring ones. I am using a 20/50 oil from Hitec-it's compatible with Methanol.
Turbo54 ·
Who's doing the dyno work for you in SA?
Still looking for a good tuner now the one I wanted to use moved to melbourne.
T54
matberry ·
50 weight seems too thick for a new engine. Possibly a big pump too ??
ian.mezz ·
.
check your seals for cuts as where they sit in the heads may have a shape ege on seal seat.
some times high pressure means close bearing clearance?
jaycee and fast fab in the USA sell athingy that lets oil return o sump.
Check out our new oil control system! We have eliminated the large brass bypass valve and machined it internally into our 6061 billet aluminum oil manifold housing. The systems are all calibrated to 80psi and includes a high flow relief piston, double ground precision spring and complemented with the black anodized #8 an fittings. The housing comes in blue, black or red anodized color for a long lasting professional finish! Please write color choice in the instructions box when you pay through Paypal.
nbturbo ·
T54- I am using Paul Tyler from LMG Performance at Warnertown just near Pt Pirie. He's good with all brands of ECU's. Ian,where can I find pics of your oil system?I will ring Hitech and see if they do a lower vis' oil, yet still good with Methanol. I checked outthe pushrod tube seals- they are all perished and look like shit- these cam with the new tubes when I bought them. Will try to find some good ones tomorrow.
humpty ·
Were the seals the hard bright white seals or the soft cream coloured ones?.... Have always used ther softer ones in the past when I fitted a set of Jaycee tubes, but recently on a mates car I fitted a set that came with the harder seals... Was a litted sceptical, but they seamed to work ok.
nbturbo ·
From memory they were hard white seals- but are now like jelly and swollen up. I bought the tubes from CB's but don't remember what brand they were.
HappyDaze ·
Gary, it may be an idea to soak any seals that you are thinking of using in that Hitech oil for a few days first. It may be 'livening them up'?
ian.mezz ·
nbturbo wrote:T54- I am using Paul Tyler from LMG Performance at Warnertown just near Pt Pirie. He's good with all brands of ECU's. Ian,where can I find pics of your oil system?I will ring Hitech and see if they do a lower vis' oil, yet still good with Methanol. I checked outthe pushrod tube seals- they are all perished and look like shit- these cam with the new tubes when I bought them. Will try to find some good ones tomorrow.
Thanks Ian- found it. Found 2 Elring gasket kits today- so they are on their way. Will try 1 in some oil Greg.
Flintstones ·
Gary, on your initial dyno run, what figures did you end up with?
nbturbo ·
Dino-final run gave me 341 hp at the wheels with 18lbs boost. It has a lot more in it after I get used to it
1916baja ·
Holy moley! Nice work!👍
fish26 ·
Man, that's a real powerhouse......congrats
nbturbo ·
Yes-hoping it scares the shit out of me.I have finished rolling and folding the 4 side pieces,made new top panels and sanded everything before I worked with it.A lot easier to sand when it's still a flat piece of ally.I made some templates tonight for the rear spoiler,and decided on this shape for the sides.I have folded a narrow piece for the actual spoiler which is the final shape.Will use that to give me all the correct angles for the actual panel I will use.Last piece of the puzzle will be the back panel.I will have to allow some room for wheely bars to poke through if they are needed.
Turbo54 ·
341hp... Good going. Think your going to need the wheelie bars.
That's the same hp as Adams turbo coral oval. You guys should line them up.
Well done
T54
Flintstones ·
Strewth, some serious power there!!
Do you have any vids of the dyno run?
Rear panel work is looking good.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Congrats mate!! Wheelie bars will be a definite lol rear panels and wing looks great!!
hypo-vw ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Congrats mate!! Wheelie bars will be a definite lol rear panels and wing looks great!!
x2 Gary ..... looks awesome mate , you have done an impeccible job on the body ..... great HP figures too , should be fun to drive with that auto 👍👍👍
nbturbo ·
Thanks Wayne- yes I remember discussing making wheelie bars with Ben about 12 months ago- tube size etc etc. Will have to get back onto it.
essex ·
Really nice work. Look forward to seeing it.
HappyDaze ·
Nice ute, Gary.👍
I hope you're going to make it earn it's keep......fast courier work. maybe?🙄
hypo-vw ·
HappyDaze wrote:I hope you're going to make it earn it's keep......fast courier work. maybe?🙄
GEICS...... Garys' Express Interstate Courier Service 😂😂😂
only problem I see is that it probably carries enough fuel to get around the block ....
20bkombi ·
That's awesome power Gary👍👍
You've done a great job on the build and I'm very keen to see it at the track.
typethreeking ·
Awesome work Gary, what size turbo are you using?
hellbugged ·
Very cool indeed 👍
matberry ·
Great power. very well done, I'm also keen to see you get to the track, you have a great approach and I'm sure it'll go very well.
nbturbo ·
hypo-vw wrote:
HappyDaze wrote:I hope you're going to make it earn it's keep......fast courier work. maybe?🙄
GEICS...... Garys' Express Interstate Courier Service 😂😂😂
only problem I see is that it probably carries enough fuel to get around the block ....
GEICS-now that's good-would definitely need a long range fuel tank- but I wouldn't be happy not being able to hear my Justin Bieber CD's.
nbturbo ·
typethreeking wrote:Awesome work Gary, what size turbo are you using?
From memory it is a T4
dangerous ·
It is looking great Gary!
Love the shape of those rear quarters!
'scot pickup now too!
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave-I'm really pleased with the end result with the body.Discovered last night the push rod tube drama was actually a bent pushrod which pushed the ally tube out of shape and pushed out the seal.Made another push rod and fitted the OG tubes that Autocraft use.Funny thing is-the seals on the other side of the motor are all OK-none have gone soft.Am going to fit the new Elring seals anyhow.Don't know why the pushrod bent in the middle-the thickest part of the tapered tube.Maybe too much spring pressure.It ended up with 480 Lbs at 0.500" lift.All the others are perfect.
RodPenrose ·
Gary , I would like to see you reduce the spring pressure if you can . If this was one of the manton dual tappered pushrods , Let me have a length as I have multiple incomplete sets here and I can give you one if you need one , ROD.
dangerous ·
Yeah 480 plus lbs will test those thin autocraft pushrods, and is probably unneccesary.(but not unheard of)
Mine used to bend on the end, but only if I floated it,
or had a lot of hot lash with the Autocraft cam grinds.
There was a batch of those that missed heat treatment about 10 years ago, so that one may be like those.
If you cant drop the pressure, step up to the newer thick walled ones that are made by manton and sold through CB performance.
Rod may have a whole set as mentioned above.
Stanley ·
Looks awesome Gary. Very unique car with looks and power to boot.
Look forward to seeing it run.
nbturbo ·
I bought 2 sets from Autocraft a couple of years ago. I remember when I was punching in one of the ends, the tube got a split for about 40mm down one end. They are very thin in the wall. Will get onto CB's and order a set of the Manton ones- thanks for the heads up Dave.
nbturbo ·
Dave-I just checked CB's website,the only C/M ones they have are dual tapered and look very much like the ones I alreadey have.I have finished the rear of the ute body now.The rear panel will do until I can come up with a better idea.The small hinged flap at the top will let out any trapped air.
Turbo54 ·
Hi Gary,
Nice job on the ute, regarding the back panel you should of set the rear wing over the end of the rear gate as I think your going get wash off the back that circulates and will suck you backwards thus slowing you down. There is lots of information about this and you could also talk to Mike from MV about it as he races a ute and has also had to overcome this.
Heath
hypo-vw ·
Gary I just checked out your rear panel , looks great mate I love it !!
but the tow-hitch appears to be off centre mate .... that is where the goose-neck for the tow-bar fits in isn't it ...😂😂😂
HappyDaze ·
And will it be strong enough for the 27,000kg towing capacity?😁
nbturbo ·
I will wait until I get some paint on it b4 I decide if I need to make something different. Once some stickers go on it- could be OK. Yeh- made a mistake with gooseneck- also forgot to use RHS- guess it won't become a tow vehicle.
hypo-vw ·
this project is just awesome mate .... one of my personal favourite threads on this forum 👍👍👍
Dak-A-Tak ·
Well done Gary coming along quick now , you could bead roll a tailgate shape into the back panel or air brush .
Least you have plenty of room for wheelie bars and chute holder later .
Good colour to .
nbturbo ·
Well I guess there is only 1 option for me- I will have to tow it over to your world next February and give it a run.
whathaveidone ·
You could always have a few late nights and get it here for june!!!!!! I agree with pete on the bead rolls. would finish it off nicely.
nbturbo ·
Took it out last Saturday to give it a try out.Had some serious overfuelling problems from idle and up to about 2,500 revs.I have a standard VW convertor in it still,but it just wouldn't drive from rest without flooding the motor and stalling.I managed to get 2 half arsed runs in-but with both runs the motor didn't clear itself of fuel till about half track-then all hell broke loose as it came on boost.The last run got me through the lights at 91mph,so I am almost 100% happy with it.We are doing a computer link up one night this week with the Tuner,and he will pull a lot of fuel out below 2000 rpm.I am still having some oil mist coming from a couple of pushrod tubes-what do you blokes consider to be the best brand tubes to use?
Flintstones ·
Glad to see that you got it out on the track.
hopefully it won't take the tuner much to sort out.
when are you planning to go back out to the track?
you've got to post some vids for us 😉
nbturbo ·
Our next meet here is May 11- my priorities now are to have the rear body fully painted,a new hi stall convertor done and of course get the fuel map sorted. If all this doesn't happen b4 May 11, then I will be ready for the meet after that.
hypo-vw ·
great to hear Gary , that you have way too much fuel supply .... it is easy to take small amounts out , it is a lot harder to find extra fuel supply or even repair a torched engine .
Very well done mate , looking forward to hearing and seeing how your car goes as you pull fuel out and get a cleaner tune 👍👍👍
ian.mezz ·
nbturbo wrote:Took it out last Saturday to give it a try out.Had some serious overfuelling problems from idle and up to about 2,500 revs.I have a standard VW convertor in it still,but it just wouldn't drive from rest without flooding the motor and stalling.I managed to get 2 half arsed runs in-but with both runs the motor didn't clear itself of fuel till about half track-then all hell broke loose as it came on boost.The last run got me through the lights at 91mph,so I am almost 100% happy with it.We are doing a computer link up one night this week with the Tuner,and he will pull a lot of fuel out below 2000 rpm.I am still having some oil mist coming from a couple of pushrod tubes-what do you blokes consider to be the best brand tubes to use?
one of these fix lots of oil leaks .
.
nbturbo ·
I like that-must be made of some good gear.Being so close to exhaust etc,would get seriously hot.Had planned on making an ally catch pan to sit under the motor and make it easily removable.
nbturbo ·
hypo-vw wrote:great to hear Gary , that you have way too much fuel supply .... it is easy to take small amounts out , it is a lot harder to find extra fuel supply or even repair a torched engine .
I have heaps of fuel available still.The injectors are no where near maxed out at full revs under load and I have a 1400 HP pump,so have a lot left in the pump also.
nbturbo ·
I had some issues with the blue hose that I bought which was Methanol / Oil resistant ( came highly recommended from the hose guy here) It turned out to be shit.It was made from some type of plastic and as soon as it got hot it went hard and wouldn't seal any more.I have changed it all now for some good braided hose.I have made an aluminium catch pan to go under the engine and bellhousing- just in case it springs a leak.It can be removed by just one spring loaded clip.Engine tuner let me down last week-have locked in a definate time this Monday.
nbturbo ·
I have finally finished all the paint and mechanical jobs on my car.I have a signwriter doing a wrap down each side and an Australian flag on top of the spoiler.Have to fit the chute and cable when Rod's container arrives.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Sensational mate!! Looks the goods!!
nbturbo ·
Looking for some info-what do you blokes who are running Methanol with electronic injection do after each meet? Are ther any special things you do to keep everything clean and prevent any alloy corrosion? I have heard of different things that are done to prevent the fuel system getting sludge build up with the Methanol going to jelly.
typethreeking ·
Put a tune in it to run on pump fuel, doesn't need to be anything special just enough to start and run, make sure you've got a drain plug in the tank to drain the methanol and run a few litres of unleaded through to flush it out
ian.mezz ·
seven years in the making , must feel good now that its nearly ready to race , well done. 👍
nbturbo ·
ian.mezz wrote:seven years in the making , must feel good now that its nearly ready to race , well done. 👍
It sure is a good feeling now it's ready- but a bit wary that it will scare the shit out of me when I give it the first full power run. Thanks for that tip Troy, will ring the tuner bloke tomorrow to see what he can organize. I remember he put 2 tunes into it related to ambient temperature. It gets really cold here at night after fairly warm days, so I can put a different tune in it to run after dark.
1916baja ·
Get your injectors cleaned and flowed regularly. Dave has found the injectors to be a constant maintenance issue with the meth. I know he won't see this so I answered it for him, I'm sure he'd stress the same thing. 😁
hypo-vw ·
1916baja wrote:Get your injectors cleaned and flowed regularly. Dave has found the injectors to be a constant maintenance issue with the meth. I know he won't see this so I answered it for him, I'm sure he'd stress the same thing. 😁
Hi Gary , firstly I would like to congratulate you on a very unique and awesome quality build , that ute of yours looks fantastic mate .
Us guys at Team WPVW all use methanol fuel in both our injected & carburetted drag bugs . We run a methanol fuel additive from VP Racing Fuels Inc . This additive has a scented candy smell which helps with the 'eye burning' issues from the methanol exhaust fumes , and is designed to protect all aluminum fuel system parts . It also lubricates the valve guides and valves .
If we are competing at race meetings within 3-4 weeks of each other , we leave the fuel in our cars ..... if the meetings are months apart we drain the entire fuel system and flush it out with unleaded fuel . The injected cars we plug into the Microtech and remove 40% fuel from the mixture trim and they run smoothly .
Ben Ford has not raced his bug since November and the same fuel still sits in it now ..... we checked his fuel system prior to starting it with the new injection system a couple of weeks ago and found no signs of contamination / jelly .
1916baja ·
Yeah, he's using that... Still has to keep an eye on it though.
Dak-A-Tak ·
Additive is the go , I use to flush with BP Zoom (oil in petrol) but later switch to VP Additive and this stop the jelly blobs But
the other best thing to do is just run your car every couple weeks ( keeps fuel from drying out in the system every where ).
The flow level line is the corrosion piont ( fuel level meets the air level ) this is when the white powder stuff comes from , I use to seal off the fuel tank as well from the air ( stops moisture entering and corrosion in alloy fuel tank )
Cast alloy is mostly what gets atttack .
nbturbo ·
Thanks for the info fellas. Wayne,appreciate your comments- I have been using that additive in the fuel, but had no idea about it's protection properties as you have mentioned. Have got a 50% fuel map coming. Checked out the new body wrap yesterday- love it. He has to do the lamination still,can then start fitting it.
HappyDaze ·
Nice tow-car, Gary. Is that a S.A. tow-hitch?........seems a bit high to me. 👍
When do you start on the race car?
nbturbo ·
Good day Greg-decided that it's going to be a dual purpose vehicle,tow car during the week and drag car on weekends. Will hook number 8 up to it one day,and tow it faster than it's ever gone before.
hypo-vw ·
nbturbo wrote:Will hook number 8 up to it one day,and tow it faster than it's ever gone before.
😂😂😂 I love it , light-hearted rib-jabbing comments 👍👍👍 just Gold !!
nbturbo ·
Started on a set of ladder bars for my car this week.Can't believe how many hours go into this stuff.Used 7/8" C/M tube and fabricated the wheel brackets from some 100X50X4mm RHS.Had an Australian flag put on the rear spoiler and the side wrap goes on this week.
nbturbo ·
Ladder Bars--
cjbolt051 ·
Love the aussie sticker👍 cant wait to see it on the track. Well done mate
nbturbo ·
Thanks Chris- you know that we will have to run together one day.
20bkombi ·
Nice work Gary, love the way you think out side the norm on your fabrication work. It's a credit to you mate !!
It would be easy to copy or buy some parts but wheres the fun in that. Unless you can't buy the material cheaper than the product.
Sure you'll get the times you are looking for soon, keep at it!!
nbturbo ·
Ladder Bars are finished and all joints sanded.Off to the painter tomorrow.Just one last fabrication job left now.Have to make something to fit a handle so I can set the chute off.
Aaron-next time you go into your shed,have a look at what you have been producing then tell me you don't do things a bit different to most of us.Keep it up.
Got the car set up on blocks now to give the bloke applying the wrap some room to move.
cjbolt051 ·
nbturbo wrote:Thanks Chris- you know that we will have to run together one day.
Look forward to it mate.
nbturbo ·
Finally got the wrap each side completed and wheeliie bars are painted.I used Jon Rathbone's car from England for my inspiration for the design.Changed a a few minor things with different colours.I spotted his car in a Mag in 2001 and fell in love with it,so decided one day to build a car and use those graphics.
matberry ·
👍👍
Looks great 🙂
nbturbo ·
Found another pic.
fish26 ·
i'm really liking this ride, totally different from the norm........well done
HappyDaze ·
If you keep going like this, Gary, you won't want to drive the thing.......it'll be too good.👍
👍👍👍
dangerous ·
WOW! Looks awesome!
Now, stop dragging the chain and get out to the track!!
Don't be afraid, just take your time and sneak up on the performance.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looks sensational Gary!! Top Job indeed!! Now to get to the track and enjoy it!!
davidoconnor ·
Gary,
Just in time for the 4's, 6's and rotary nationals in late November Adelaide. It's on the Saturday before the Volksfest, you could make a full weekend out of it! Show should be great at Elder Park this year.
nbturbo ·
Got the chute mounted on new brackets.Had to move the exhaust to one side to make sure the chut didn't get any where near it.Blocked off the original exhaust hole with some thin ally and a new sticker.
Flintstones ·
Love the plate Gary 👍👍😂
Cheers
D
HappyDaze ·
Gary, will that little rope be strong enough to tow No. 8 Beetle?
nbturbo ·
It's high tensile Greg- but will have to fit a quick release at your end when everything becomes a blurr to you- let go before you shit your Fletcher Jones.
HappyDaze ·
TOO LATE! I already did.....just thinkin' about it.🤪
nbturbo ·
Some progress( or lack of it ) with my car.Took it to a meet here last weekend,but still having issues with over fuelling.The bloke doing the tune came across early to have a go at sorting it out.I have the injectors away being tested,but I think it is an ECU problem.I made a fuel tank from stainless and mounted it on a sack truck with a lever type pump good for methanol- it works really well.It holds 60 litres which should be plenty to get me into the finals if I ever get it going.
cnfabo ·
nbturbo wrote:Some progress( or lack of it ) with my car.Took it to a meet here last weekend,but still having issues with over fuelling.The bloke doing the tune came across early to have a go at sorting it out.I have the injectors away being tested,but I think it is an ECU problem.I made a fuel tank from stainless and mounted it on a sack truck with a lever type pump good for methanol- it works really well.It holds 60 litres which should be plenty to get me into the finals if I ever get it going.
Wow that looks shit hot¡!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nbturbo ·
Have come to a standstill with this thing-just about over it.I have had some help from Pat at CB just before Xmas.I was that pissed off with what was happening with the bloke here doing the tune-I decided to ring Pat and see if there was anything he could help me with.We loaded a "join me" program into my laptop and after about 30 minutes of run time,he had the thing sounding like a monster (awesome in fact)He loaded a new spark table and fixed the timing problem that was causing it to hold a really high idle speed after each time it was revved. The 02 sensor had already shit itself from running flooded for ages,so he got me to put a new one in and if I could get it onto a dyno,he would finish the tune off.At this stage I have locked in Saturday 18th for him to do his stuff on a Dyno I found here.I have done a few more things to my trailer after watching Rod perform miracles on his.I made my rear door drop down to be the ramp,made some drop down rear legs so the car can be loaded with the trailer off the car.I have also fitted some tubes to the ramp so that I can roll the car back to do any work under the engine if needed.These are the same frames that go under my car when it needs to be lifted at the track while the engine is running with nobody in the seat.Made some ally ramps to put behind my ute to back onto, if I need the arse of the trailer to be lower.There are 2 of the black rollers at the rear for sliding over gutters and spoon drains.I have 4 inch dropped axles,so it will be doing some grounding out I suspect.I have some big gas struts for the ramp if needed-it's not too bad now and it is only having some 3mm ally checker plate-will see how I feel about having to lift it by myself.
nbturbo ·
When I get my car back here,I am going to load it onto the trailer,add everything that's going to be on board,then do a load test at the coupling to work out where to locate the axles.I made a sub frame from 60x6mm angle to mount the spring hangers, which is tack welded in place at the moment.I will cut the welds to shift the whole assembly into the correct position to give me my ball weight,then do a final solid weld.I am going to clad the whole thing in that 3mm ally sandwich panel.
Flintstones ·
very cool, like the tricks you've incorporated 👍
cheers
D
HappyDaze ·
Gary, are you and Rod having a 'Trailer Building Competition' ❓😂
Is it only to carry that little 'ute, or part of the 'courier service' ❓😂
Looks typically impressive. 👍
essex ·
Good luck with the tune, looking forward to seeing it at the track.
Frallan ·
Very nice story with Pat at CB. I am having good service too.
Good luck!
matberry ·
Wow....on a mission. 👍👍👍
nbturbo ·
matberry wrote:Wow....on a mission. 👍👍👍
It's becoming an epic journey.I think I see that small glimmer of light at the very end of the tunnel.We will see if the session with Mark or Pat happens next Saturday morning.
nbturbo ·
Is it only to carry that little 'ute,'
Yes Greg,just for the little ute.Plan on putting in some comforts for me as well-good lighting,good tools,air compressor,gen set and an air conditioner.
nbturbo ·
nbturbo wrote:
matberry wrote:Wow....on a mission. 👍👍👍
It's becoming an epic journey.I think I see that small glimmer of light at the very end of the tunnel.We will see if the session with Mark or Pat happens next Saturday morning.
Well this session didn't occur.Due to a misunderstanding with the Lad here helping me with the laptop work,I ran it Friday night on the dyno with some load, and blew a flame hole out of number 3 cylinder to head sealing face.He was not happy with me-I was only to run it in 1st gear to ensure it sat OK on the dyno.He was going to do power runs with Pat on Saturday morning.Another fuxxxn setback.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Ouch!! Sorry to hear!! Troy and I with the help of a few others spent close to 6 odd hours on the dyno and only got one power run done with boost. The joys of a new motor!! Oil leaks, exhaust gaskets leaking, manifold gasket leaking etc etc. by the time each little thing is fixed ready to go you've wasted another 30-45 minutes trying to work on a hot engine lol. Back we go in a few weeks time to get it all sorted. The one thing Troy has constantly stressed to the tuner is to keep afr's super safe on the rich side of things. Rather sacrifice a little power for a nice safe tune that isn't going to hurt the engine every time you take it out of the trailer.
Good luck with the repairs!! Hope the damage isn't too bad!!
nbturbo ·
I feel your frustration.Where I stuffed up-I didn't realise that Pat had completely scrubbed the previous tune and loaded a generic base tune.He then did his stuff and got it running up to needing to put some boost into it.I thought it still had the previous tune to run it with boost-bad mistake.It blew a lot of oil out the pushrod tube seals,and I discovered last night that 3 lash caps had jumped out on the other head and one was smashed to pieces. The rockers have damaged both number 1 cylinder valve stems.It's all a learning curve .
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Yup sure is a learning curve!! I had a headache for 2 days after being in the dyno room for that amount if time sucking in methanol fumes!! We had a rocker cover come loose on 2nd boost run which had to be aborted as it spewed oil onto the exhaust and caught fire!! That was fun lol
The more hp you want to make the more you have to make sure everything is spot on or youll end up with a big pile of sad parts...
nbturbo ·
The fumes play havoc with my eyes and it gives me a sore throat for a day or two. The only bonus is the smell- I use a VP additive and its awesome.As i am working on the engine, i can still smell what must get into the oil.So are you on top with the car yet?
20bkombi ·
nbturbo wrote:
nbturbo wrote:
matberry wrote:Wow....on a mission. 👍👍👍
It's becoming an epic journey.I think I see that small glimmer of light at the very end of the tunnel.We will see if the session with Mark or Pat happens next Saturday morning.
Well this session didn't occur.Due to a misunderstanding with the Lad here helping me with the laptop work,I ran it Friday night on the dyno with some load, and blew a flame hole out of number 3 cylinder to head sealing face.He was not happy with me-I was only to run it in 1st gear to ensure it sat OK on the dyno.He was going to do power runs with Pat on Saturday morning.Another fuxxxn setback.
That's a bummer!! This might sound a bit bogus but I ran becs type 3 for the first time with my race engine on stands, with on wheels on the back
and feathering the food brake through 1st, 2nd, and third gear with the auto and managed to get a tune up to 15psi @9000 rpm useing my data logger and sort any teething issues.
This was mainly to save dyno time and money.
Frallan ·
Very cool!
Plus you ran a good 10 second run in Becs car too.
I had one of the first generations of Motecs.
Picked it up at Richard Bendells house in Melbourne, way back in 1989. (Edit ; it was 1989 and it was a potentiometer style. Few years later and maybe 1992 it was the first new style 3D map style unit. Very high tech.)
Anyway, I did the same procedure in my garage.
I have a log of 30 psi from that session.
Frallan ·
nbturbo, you have a very cool car and soon you will be racing it successfully. Do not get depressed!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Troy has the car ready to head back to the dyno. Everything checked out ok and he has dumped the oil flushed the fuel system and cleaned all filters. Just waiting for the tuner now....
nbturbo ·
Good luck with Troy's car- hope your Tuner is switched on.Frallen- I will get inspired again with it. I pulled the other head as well- it had 3 lash caps in the rocker cover with one smashed into small pieces and 2 valve stems mutilated. I sent the heads to Chris Milton in Adelaide to make them like new. I have my car trailer build to keep me "in the zone"
I have a new mod for the auto's, very easy to do as well.
Your shift pattern is PRN123, I can make it PRN123N. Awesome for dyno's and 1/4 mile over runs.
Performance Upholstery ·
That's awesome Aaron!
nbturbo ·
Would have to mod the shifter. My VW shifter looks nothing like an original. Mine is PRN123,but I have put a top gear lock out - I have to lift the lever for 3rd to prevent accidentally getting it on the shift into 2nd.
20bkombi ·
I have two other ways to do this, no.1 is to mod the v/b and the other way which I'm making is a full external fed trans brake and neutral both activated by two momentary 12v+ buttons.
So press one button for t/brake or press the 2nd one for 'N',
T/brake button will only work in 1st
'N' button will work in any forward gears, at any time.
But all still on paper
nbturbo ·
How do you go holding your Van at staging with just the brakes as it comes on boost?
Is there a way to get oil out of the Trans to run through a cooler if you get a Trans brake happening? Remember what I told you about the ground breaking stuff coming from your shed- and it is still happening.
20bkombi ·
The bus is still porsche 6spd manual. Bec's type 3 is the only auto at this stage and has disks on the rear to hold it at 4300rpm @ 9psi, no trans brake.
I drill two extra hols in the trans case into the line that feeds the converter this is the best line as it has content feed in all gears including 'N' and 'P'.
All these holes are done before its built. I'm looking at a modified sump and my v/b with every thing, t/b, 'N', and oil lines for cooling, to bolt in with out a full pull down.
Frallan ·
Like this!
Hmm, I do not understand why Photobucket will not copy.
20bkombi ·
Yes Fredric just like the t3 (vangon) cases.
nbturbo ·
It finally got the better of me Rod-had to get back into it-here is proof.
dangerous ·
What is going on Gary?
nbturbo ·
Dave-you wouldn't have enough tissues at your place if I told you the whole story.A year ago torched the cylinder head.Had that repaired by the same firm that 12 months earlier completely rebuilt both heads.This time they discovered that one head had different size exhaust valves(go figure when they did the first rebuild).Told them to do whatever will make it good-another $3,000 with 4 new exhaust valves at $400 each.When I get them back,they had faced the inlet valve stems off to set them at the same height as the new exhaust valves.Not enough valve stem to use lash caps without riding on the collets.I bought new caps and machined them to clear the collets.With all this pissing around,the rocker geometry was no where near right,so while doing that I managed to drop an 8mm nut down the pushrod tube hole.With every magnet style known to man-I couldn't get it out.At that point anybody with any halfarsed story how they liked VWs was welcome to it.Anyway 12 months has gone without even looking at the thing.Talked to Rod at the VW show in Adelaide late last year and he told me to get off my arse and fix it.Found the nut wedged under the windage tray,so it probably would never have caused an issue-but not worth the chance.I was also talking to Alf Kamilo at the VW show,and he reckons the valves they fitted have hardened stems,so don't need lash caps.I have decided to not use any,so if the inlet valves shit themselves,I will just replace them as needed.I made some mods to the suction pipes for the dry sump system and the bearings look just like when I fitted them.Its all back together now and waiting on some new pushrods from Mike at Autocraft to finish one side. I have awesome geometry now after a lot of pissing about.
Gary, I envy you for you patience.....and that little yellow express delivery truck. 👍👍
Cheers, Greg
nbturbo ·
Thanks for the link Mike- plenty of bargains there. I will chase it up. My heads take Chevrolet valves.Greg,I guess it has something to do with what we both suffer from- maturity.Cute little delivery truck isn't it??
stoker ·
give me a call if you want titanium valves at the right price , they are 2nd hand but they are good (been using them since 2002
nbturbo ·
Thanks Dave-will see what happens when I start it up.Have just had an unreal experience with somebody who has made some new pushrods for me.Phil Mizzi put me in touch with John from Jet Engineering in Victoria.I sent him a bent Autocraft rod and he has reproduced it and increased wall thickness to 0.140" from the OG 0.080".Less than a week turnaround and very reasonably priced.If you ever need pushrod help,phone John (0412 223 885)
nbturbo ·
New pushrods arrived today-have gone from 93grams to 144grams.It's the centre hole that's made the difference.Hopefully bent rods are a thing of the past.Now to iron out some more ongoing issues.
lunar_c ·
I've just read this thread from the beginning. What a great build, quite a credit to your dedication and skills as a fabricator.
I've seen a few beetle ute builds now and this is my favourite looking one so far, a very custom hotrod look. Nice job.
Best of luck with the remainder of the build and ironing out those issues, and congrats on such a cool build.
nbturbo ·
Thanks for your comments.I have a Manx buggy getting the treatment at the moment,but have been making stuff to begin a street version of the Ute as a Hotrod.Will go auto trans again,but something Subaru hanging out the back.Keen to try a good sized diesel engine for something a bit different.
nbturbo ·
I wanted to try something to make it easier to get the car on and off the trailer,so came up with this idea.Its a pain in the arse with the front guards dragging on the ramps all the time.It gives me about 70mm more clearance between the front guards and the ground.If they work I will leave them in place to load ,travel and unload.I used an over centre pin on the top one just to prevent them jumping off in transit.I have made some rings for hooking the tie downs onto-they bolt up to the lower link pin adjusting bolts.
modnrod ·
Great idea! I use a block of wood at just the right length between my fork brace and bottom yoke on the bike to do the same thing.
Makes getting on/off much easier. 😏
nbturbo ·
For you Rodney P.I don't think I explained it too well on the phone.It gives the shaft 0.030" end float.I will pack the area with grease and fit a paper gasket to stop any leakage.I pressed the brass plug in so it should stay there.
nbturbo ·
Bit of an update on what's been going on with my Drag Car's ECU tune issues.When I bought the system from CB performance,it came with no written instructions about assembly,but every wire was clearly marked where it needed to be.The one marked constant 12volt I put on the main battery isolator-so it would be isolated in an emergency if needed.After all this pissing around with 2 different tuners and being told that the car is good to race each time I picked it up-I started to think that the fault was happening in my shed.After emailing some fuel tables and logs to Mark at CB,he asks where the constant 12volt wire is fed from.He informed me that if the ignition is turned off and the main isolator is also turned off in less than 45 seconds,most of what was loaded into the ECU will be lost.Finally after this shit happening for nearly 2 years,I think I have found what's been causing the problem - me.Most times when I ran the car in the shed,I always turned the main isolator off each time after shutting the engine down.A bit disappointed with it all.I now have it on the battery terminal.The car is now back at a Tuner and will be ready for collection sometime next week.Heres hoping I may get some arse in seat time.We have a race your mates event here June 6th.
Flintstones ·
Glad to hear that you got the ECU issue figured out Gary.
CheapChalee ·
Gary, just finished reading this from the beginning. Glad to see that you are getting close. Those electrical problems are a pain in the butt. hoping to have mine running by the end of the year.
Chalee
nbturbo ·
Got a phone call late Tuesday night from the Dyno bloke with some bad news and some more bad news. He had been playing with the car on and off for nearly 2 weeks and was getting more pissed off each time he tried tuning it. He tunes Motec,Haltec and Wolf ECU's and he cant believe how difficult the CB one is to make any changes. Anyhow he thought he had it just right about 9pm Tuesday night so had a coffee break. When he tried to restart it- no spark, no injectors or fuel pump. This has been a fault from day 1 and the only way to fix it is to simply remove the large plug from the ECU and put it back on and it all works again. I have said all along that the ECU is rooted having an intermittent fault . CB reckon they have never had an issue with any ECU's. I told the tuner I would contact CB and buy a new one. His idea was to buy something that is easy to tune and stay clear of the CB one. I can get a Wolf ecu for a reasonable price. What do you blokes think about them. I am so over this shit with trying to tune this thing that I will try anything.Any clues to help out??? He is away now till next week some time at the Fink Races. He does the tuning for Hayden Bentleys race car and is there as a crew member
modnrod ·
CB also rekn they had never had an issue with their old 1.25 rockers, or that batch of off-centre CNC 044s that developed cracks in the intakes a few years ago, or their hard chrome stemmed valves that now recommend lash caps, or, or, or........
CB also make some really good stuff, but if they refuse to back their stuff up if there is ever an issue (as there is purely coz sometimes shit happens), then go elsewhere.
If the only thing that fixes the thing is to unplug the ECU every time, then yes, it's stuffed.
Your tuner is telling you the right stuff. Wolf is cheap, reliable, and damn near stone-age simple, and has been for 20 years.
humpty ·
Been having the same problem with an CB ECU over here... It's an absolute drag!
nbturbo ·
Thanks for the replies- been feeling like a Shag on a rock for ages about this and because I am hours away from the Professionals who can help- was getting close to making it a show car only.The guy from CB claimed that the first tuner had no idea what he was doing and changed the tune with join me software, but it was shit next day from his attempt. Then I torched the head,found another tuner and it turns to shit also,was thinking that it's all too hard. Maybe a small light has come on at the end of a very long tunnel.
CheapChalee ·
I have just bought the ViPEC I88 ECU, but I haven't installed it yet, but their not cheap.
Chalee
nbturbo ·
My car is still with the tuner- delivered it on May 10 - have forgotten what it looks like.Have got back onto the trailer for some therapy.Have made steel mudguards from 2mm plate and welded them in with a 40x40 rib to strengthen the thing lengthways.Made an access door with a step and will start to do the side vertical bars tomorrow.I priced the Ally panel today and got all the sizes and colours that are available.Will buy 4020x1500 sheets and cut them in half(2010) and stand them up.Will take 3 pieces each side with an offcut of 550 to do the last piece at the back.I am using a silver outside with white inside.
dragvw2180 ·
CB does make and sell some nice stuff and their staff is very helpful , but it seems to me that their electronic products are not something I would recommend . We tried the Black Box and the programmable crank fired ignition/ Boost control system, neither of which we were satisfied with . Mark was VERY helpful but like you there was no paper work telling us how to program the system and did not mention a switch on the back that locked out our settings , it erased every change we made. I used a " FAST " Fuel injection system on a friends car , was very simple/ trouble free to use. Mike McCarthy
nbturbo ·
Same problems I struggled with Mike.Its like you don't know what you don't know and your never gunna find out unless you just happen to mention a recurring fault- the answer was" oh that occurs because you failed to do something specific" - never mind that it's been pissing me around for nearly 2 years.I am way over it. Sorry to hear you had similar issues.
nbturbo ·
Another 3 months and this thing is 10 years in the making.Any normal Human would have chucked the towel in years ago.This is my latest pics taken yesterday.It has spent most of it's life like this.The trans shit itself just as the engine was having it's last dyno run to finish the tune off.I had to send the trans to the Gold Coast to get it repaired by a bloke who actually knows what he is doing- the expert at my end who did the first rebuild was lacking in VW trans skills.Thank God for Aaron.I believe the engine tune is finally somewhere near being correct-although the engine doesn't sound as crisp as it did before the new tuner did his thing.It has now been fully rewired to suit the new Wolf ECU with new ignition modules and the crank angle sensor cog wheel modified for a different system.The tuner had me modify the exhaust to shift the waste gate up close to the collector,so I had the whole thing ceramic coated again.Hoping 2016 will be the year this thing actually gets a full pass in??????
modnrod ·
nbturbo wrote:Another 3 months and this thing is 10 years in the making.Any normal Human would have chucked the towel in years ago.
It has now been fully rewired to suit the new Wolf ECU with new ignition modules and the crank angle sensor cog wheel modified for a different system.
Good stuff Greg. The Wolf stuff has an excellent reputation.
If it makes you feel any better (which it probably won't! 😂 ) I've had my "new" 750 stretched and slammed dragbike in the shed for 4 years now. The frame/swingarm/trees/forks have been hanging from the shed rafters for so long that it looks red-brown now, not the metalflake black it should be, and I can't even remember which box the clutch setup is in. I'd assemble it and go but it took so long that now I basically have nowhere to race it (Motorplex/ANDRA/squabbles etc).
You should be proud, that's a really good looking race car. 👍
Flintstones ·
Gary, the pickup looks great and you've persisted through thick and thin to get it where it is today.
I'm sure 2016 will be your year.
Don't feel too bad bout the 10 years...Was talking to a few of the boys at Der Erste Freitag (last time i went was some years ago-another story in itself) and they asked me how long it's been for mine.....17 years-and I've still got a couple of years to finish it off 🙂 and that's after I finish the wifes car first!!
nbturbo ·
Good day Dino - I had forgotten about your project.I remember when I first spotted the post on your Oval- I was getting stuck into my Oval at about the same time and I was using your build for clues to help my project. I want this car finished so I can start my next one- a VW Beetle Hot Rod ute.
Turbo54 ·
Nice one gary, can't rush perfection. Mines heading into 15 yrs this year and on a minor hiatus til later this year.
Did mike build your old box? I would've talked to him about it. He is a great builder
nbturbo ·
Did mike build your old box? I would've talked to him about it. He is a great builder [/quote]
No need-found the best VW auto trans bloke in Aus to fix it.He is just a bit too far away though.
nbturbo ·
Well here we go again.Got the auto trans back in last night,and was about to slip in the engine-when I remembered the Tuner rang me once about the tappets getting noisy.He checked the clearances and some were .030".So it is easier to do them out of the car-took off the covers and discovered that all 4 exhaust stems are rooted.The rockers are rubbing on the collets.There was a suspicion that this may occur after all the crap I went through with the Head repairer.I will try and get the heads off by the end of the weekend to check out what's needed.
nbturbo ·
This is the next round of more stuff to fix.
dangerous ·
Hi Gary,
If your valves did not come with hard tips inserted, you really need a firm fitting lash cap.
If you DID have lash caps, then loss of valve control has allowed them to come off.
Some of those autocraft cams need religious maintenance of a zero-cold-lash setting to help with valve control.
I may have some spare valves, if you send me the length and diameter.
DB
nbturbo ·
Dave-with a process of elimination-one day I may get on top of it.When the heads were last done,they skimmed the exhaust stems to be the same length as the new inlets.If they had hardened stems,well that disappeared.There was 3mm of stem left and my lash caps were 3.5mm deep.I machined 1mm off the caps and set it all up.After the first start up,some of the caps jumped off and I bent a couple of the Autocraft pushrods.Thinking back,that is what was wrong.I had a new set of heavy duty rods made in Melbourne,which would now stop all the flexing and bending.The valves are 1.55" across the head,5.250" long and tip to collett groove is .300" with the groove having a square top shoulder and 11/32 stem diam.It would appear the new inlets have hardened stems,but there is a small amount of metal flow on all of them from rocker movement.Thanks in advance.
dangerous ·
That is an odd length 🙁
Normally, Autocraft heads have 5.05" length, with .390" tips
and I have some 1.482" ti valves in that length,
or some Inconel 1.6" diameter at 5.15" length, with .260 tips.
Closest I could find online were these, but need a collet change to radius type:
Sorry to hear about all the heartache you've been having. I now know what you were talking about on the phone.
But judging by the quality and perseverance of your build I'm sure that you will get any of these last little issues sorted and lay down some solid runs this year.
Keep up the great work mate.
Smiley 🙂
nbturbo ·
Dave,I found some Ferrea valves in the US with hardened tips and square groove for a good price.I have had new guides fitted and the seats done again.I am trying to do the rocker geometry and was wondering if this is OK.I have 4.5mm shim packs under the rocker pads and have very little rocker contact at fully closed,but good contact for the rest of the sweep.I couldn't get any bigger valves in there.I have 3 sets of Autocraft rockers,early silver 1.25,late dark 1.25's I just got from Rod,and late dark 1.49's.2 sets have the oil hole in the adjuster and the hole drilled in the rocker,but it doesn't go anywhere.The roller bearings don't have a drilling in the cage to lube themselves.It looks like it all relies on splash from the pushrod/rocker seat each time there is clearance at each valve closing.
nbturbo ·
Thanks Henry-I tried that method and I am very pleased with the outcome.Because of going back to 1.25's,I have to reinstate the pushrod tube holes back to OG in the heads.Will mill some ally flat bar tomorrow with new holes and remount it all.Looks like I can use my new bullet proof pushrods again.
dangerous ·
Yeah don't use the silver rockers, they are for low rpm/light springs only.
All Autocraft rockers are splash lubed, and the solid adjusters are a better deal.
The stud/hole in the shaft for the pro-series heads should be in the centre of the shaft.(in a vertical plane). Type 1 VW shafts will have an offset hole(likely the shafts with your silver ones do).
Geometry is ultimately about the best sweep across the valve stem, for best travel and wear.
With the valve now longer than original, the rocker shaft offset will not be as good as originally,(due to the 9.5 degree stem incline)
but at least at full lift (where the spring applies the most force),
the tip is in a good position.
In a perfect world you could move the stud holes in the head with a timesert.
nbturbo ·
The stud/hole in the shaft for the pro-series heads should be in the centre of the shaft.(in a vertical plane). Type 1 VW shafts will have an offset hole(likely the shafts with your silver ones do).
I didn't know about the different shafts until Rod phoned and explained it all.The shafts with the 1.49's were the correct ones.Lucky,because I was pissing around trying to get it with the off set hole shafts.All good now.Just have to shift the pushrod tube holes back to the original location by making new ally plates.
dangerous ·
those pushrod tube holes are different on each head,(on some castings)
so make sure you have them on the correct sides before changing them!
nbturbo ·
I am making new ally plates again Dave to relocate the holes-so will put the plates where ever the best spot will be to get the push rods some where near the centre.
nbturbo ·
Flintstones wrote:Gary, the pickup looks great and you've persisted through thick and thin to get it where it is today.
I'm sure 2016 will be your year.
Don't feel too bad bout the 10 years...Was talking to a few of the boys at Der Erste Freitag (last time i went was some years ago-another story in itself) and they asked me how long it's been for mine.....17 years-and I've still got a couple of years to finish it off 🙂 and that's after I finish the wifes car first!!
I found your post on the progress of the Oval on the weekend-so read it all again.Fantastic build.
turboboy ·
Cant wait to see this thing fire in anger
Hurry up🤪
nbturbo ·
I'm feeling the same. Had the season final meet here last weekend.Have to wait till October to make smoke n noise.