Hi all, i have just finished rebuilding this type 1 2275cc engine for my friend Steve, it was originally built by Stan Pobjoy over 10 years ago, i have just simply rebuilt with new crank and cam bearings, new piston rings and new gasket kit. The engine has a SPG Roller crank in it. I have a list of all measurements obtained in the build: 2275cc Roller Engine Assembly tolerances:
Camshaft Axial Play : 0.06mm
Camshaft gear to crank gear backlash: 0.02mm
Cylinder Shims: 1.15mm
Crankshaft endplay: 0.09mm
Deck height TDC: #1 1.78mm #2 1.81mm #3 1.78mm #4 1.76mm
Head CC: #1 67cc #2 67cc #3 67cc #4 67cc
Calculated Compression Ratio: 8.1:1
Total valve lift : 0.460” or 11.68mm
Valve geometry set @ Half total lift: 5.84mm
Stroke: 82mm
Bore: 94mm
Rocker ratio: 1.25:1
Crank mains: 0.25mm under ID, OD standard
Before assembly i have cleaned all parts very thouroughly at my work were i have access to excellent cleaning equipment as i overhaul aircraft engines. The case has also been crack tested by our NDT guy, using Flourescent Penetrant inspection technique and the case has no cracks to be found in the usual areas as well as the rest of the case. I also had the cam and lifters reground by Tighe Cams, and have the cam tolarances also. The engine is equipped with 40 IDF Webbers, 009 Dizzy with electronic ignition and the heads are original 041 heads with heavy duty single springs, lightened flywheel and deep sump extension. Selling price requested by my friend is $4000 negotiable, Contact me either by U2U or on 0405464872, please ring only after 5pm monday to friday or anytime on Saturday and Sunday. I am in North Brisbane (Murrumba Downs). I also have video footage of this engine running before overhaul, the engine in it's current state has not been run yet. Here are some photo's of the rebuild. Cheers Damien.
Complete engine.
Cleaned parts ready for assembly.
Assembly.
[ Edited on 27-8-2006 by 66deluxe ]
[ Edited on 30-8-2006 by 66deluxe ]
[ Edited on 2-9-2006 by 66deluxe ]
[ Edited on 2-9-2006 by 66deluxe ]
Dasdubber ·
Nice work Damo, good luck for the sale for your friend. Can't wait to see how your type IV turns out with that level of quality and attention to detail!
greenman ·
66deluxe
you have u2u
lohoon ·
U2u'd also
Volksaddict ·
Now that would push the Frid along!!!....detail..smick oh!!
66deluxe ·
Thanks Alan, i am itching to build my type 4 just have to get pistons and heads, then i will build. Cheers Damo.
reub ·
I expected to see this bad boy sold by now....
dangerous ·
Hi Damo,
Did you mod the main bearings for the oil spray?
aintgotitmusthaveit ·
Can you give the engine #s for it.
Is it based on a 2litre combi engine?
Where the sleeves changed?
Does anyone have any experience getting a 2 litre into a type 1 and registering it with vicroads?
56astro ·
aintgotitmusthaveit wrote:Can you give the engine #s for it.
Is it based on a 2litre combi engine?
Where the sleeves changed?
Does anyone have any experience getting a 2 litre into a type 1 and registering it with vicroads?
i have just finished rebuilding this type 1 2275cc engine
It IS a type 1 motor, 2275=82x94
1500king ·
I hope you grooved the main bearings for the oil spray to the big end roller bearings(as per the reply by Dangerous)... also, was the crank pinned(if this is not done, the crank will twist as soon as you give it a little boot).seen many motors die this way, just want to warn you before it is too late.(all that money...ugghhhh)
1500king ·
a type 4 longblock is actually narrower than a type 1 longblock- no issues here. Use a 1800 kombi flywheel, get the centre drilled for the mainshaft pilot bearing(which needs to be pressed into the flywheel), your car needs to have a post 1970 (12V of course) box which has the clutch TO bearing sleeve for the 1800 clutch pressure plate, get a T4into T1 conversion kit(sharpbuilt??) and off you go... just tell the inspectors your old motor blew up! you will also need to sort out the exhaust system.
newoldmanx ·
what is pinning the crank??? are these a two piece crank
1500king ·
the crank is pressed together at the big ends as the rods do not dismantle like a conventional rod
1500king ·
They are more than two piece, so if every journal is not drilled and pinned with a bloody large, hardened pin, you will run into trouble.
1500king ·
They are a 5 piece crank!
newoldmanx ·
im looking for a goodmotor for a manx tis all
newoldmanx ·
im looking for a bit of power and would like to turbo charge it wadda you rekon
1500king ·
you will still need to get the type 4 crank counterweighted to utilise fully the power gain from the turbo and also avoid making a mess of the centre main bearings.(and maybe breaking the crank). a type 1 with a good aftermarket crank and properly prepped case will do the job just as well. it is also lighter!
1500king ·
well the crank could have been built by one of these...:sandrine
Any other SPG owners out there?
guys, do your homework.
[ Edited on 29-8-2006 by 1500king ]
[ Edited on 29-8-2006 by 1500king ]
newoldmanx ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
1500king wrote:the crank is pressed together at the big ends as the rods do not dismantle like a conventional rod
Stop it ,you're killing me:P
what does this mean????? i cant see any bolts on the rods in the pics!!are you saying its not true and in your opinion would this type of motor suit a manx application???
1500king ·
check out some of the threads on thesamba.com about spg roller cranks. these should clear it up for you, click below...
thanks mate but still seems to be a lot of uncertanty on weather their good or bad what is your opinion have ou used one this motor seems good value for dollars i was quoted $7500 by pobjoy for a counterweighted 1916cc
bond ·
this motor would rock in anything! its an exceptional build by stan and rebuild by damien. well worth the $. couldnt build one for that. if i had the coin it would have been snapped up 3 months ago before i went to europe!
goodluck with the sale
nick
ps. i think the compression is fine for turboing. or just leave it n/a. its going to push a manx along something chronic - just my 2c
[ Edited on 29-8-2006 by bond ]
newoldmanx ·
thanks mate do you know damien?? is he a reputable builder i drive my cars pretty hard and im constantly trying to squeese more out of my 13bppt
66deluxe ·
Seems i have a few questions to answer, first the crank, i am not sure if the crank has been pinned, but i do know that when my mate was driving it he would take off hard occasionaly, when i measured the crank on V blocks at work it meassured true and round and this was reflected by the numbers found when measuring TDC and Deck Height. As for the main bearings for oil spray i searched everywhere for the correct information, but could not find any, also when i compared the new bearings to the old ones they are the same, if any one has correct info and method/pictures of the mod i would be prepared to dissasemble and carry out the mod. Here's some pics of the bearings old and new:
As for myself as an engine builder and reputation i have none, all i have done is build engines for friends and myself, stock and performance examples of these are stock type 1 and type 4 builds and a 1776, 1916 and the 2270 type 4 that i am building for myself and this type 1 2275 rebuild. I have just finished an apprenticeship in Aviation Engineering with Pratt & Whitney where i Overhaul turboprops and turbofan Gas turbine engines, and i can fully overhaul these aircooled monsters, all my engines at work have passed testing first time in the test cell, and these have been a total of six so far in the last two months. Hope this has helped, thankyou Damien.
aintgotitmusthaveit ·
u2u sent
66deluxe ·
Aintgotitmusthaveit i have not received a U2U from you.
LUFTMEISTER ·
nice work damo 👍
1500king ·
see below for correct oil grooves in the main bearings. without these, the big ends will be scorched.
OK, I'm confussed, how do the grooves in the main bearings affect the big ends?
dangerous ·
The fact that the engine has been running fine with out the grooves
to supply oil to the rod bearings means that it is prob not needed.
The grooves are normally on the back of the shells
and spray through the holes in the cheeks.
Most engines rely on the mist in the crank case to do this, so my guess is that it will be fine.
newoldmanx ·
well stan built it like that and it ran hard im sold and from what i understand spg's dont like high comp made by turbo's so na is prob the way to go attention to detail is in my opinion what makes an engine builder and this engine has been built and reassembled with the highest attn to detail everything has been thouroughly checked and carefully measured using only the highest quality instruments assembled using the best lubricants and sealants and after meeting damo i rekon if your ever in need of a builder that pays exacting attention to detail give him a hollar and hopefully hes got some time i cant wait to hear this thing fire up and launch the manx... ill keep you posted thanks again damo top job
1500king ·
all I ask is you get a second opinion from a repuatble shop which has experience with these. No grooves=no spray=no oil to rod journals. its that simple. dumping the clutch will twist the crank.
bond ·
bargain!
newoldmanx ·
1500king wrote:all I ask is you get a second opinion from a repuatble shop which has experience with these. No grooves=no spray=no oil to rod journals. its that simple. dumping the clutch will twist the crank.
Well having run the manx in and dumping the clutch(is there any other way to drive a manx:bounce)
mate thanks for your concern:kiss your info has thus far proven to be a waste of time and stress the motor had been run this way for 10yrs prior to being freshened up
i really do recomend damo if you want an engine builder that pays attn to detail ---AND KNOWS HIS TRADE
VWCOOL ·
It looks like Damo has rebuilt it to a standard that Stan Pobjoy would be happy with...
Gone to a good home I hope...?
EDIT My misunderstanding - you bought it newoldmanx
[ Edited on 28-2-2007 by VWCOOL ]
66deluxe ·
So the install went ok by the sounds of it newoldmanx, how does the buggy go with the new engine?
newoldmanx ·
like a shower of the proverbial:P
i have a vid of the initial start up it took a while to build up oil pressure b4 the plugs went back in but once they did the symphony that is 4 horizontally opposed large pots sounded truely amazing
even the v8 heads up the coast absolutly love this machine its just soooo crisp
Now its here in Fiji it can be heard for literally miles (theres no background noise here) when im strapping it through the back roads
lovin it
:thumb👍