bleeding brakes, whats your method?

i generally get someone to pump the pedal a few times (5 or 6) and then hold it in while i loosen the bleed valve, let pockets and brake fluid flow out of valve and then tighten it and get the person to let go of the pedal.

i generally do this twice or so for every wheel starting from back passenger side and working my way closer to the master cylinder.

im still not happy with the pedal feel though. and with new shoes all round and no fluid leaks.

what do you do?]


Nick

have you adjusted your shoes yet?

I usually use the "one man" bleeder bottle and do it myself.

yeah shoes are adjusted. its pretty tight its just not rock solid.

maybe master cylinder?

Does the pedal feel soft and spongy, or does it just have a lot of freeplay at the start?

bit of freeplay which ive put down to master cylinder and then a little bit of sponge.

How old is the cylinder?

i dunno probobly origional gear

What year model is it a single or dual circuit

If its a single do yo uhave the little washer in the fluid inlet hole

Yes your doing it the right sequence etc etc

Adjust brakes first back off hand brake adjust it last

adjust freeplay on push rod

are the bleed nipple flowing free with fluid did you clean n check the fluid ports in the calipers if you have discs

guys, can you adjust the amount of freeplay at start?. My daughters cars brakes work fine but a lot of travel at start.

drums all round.

single circut MC.

how does one adjust the pushrod?

bleed nipples flow nicely but could there be air someone in the system far away from the nipples that isnt getting out when i bleed the system?

Have a look on the brake pedal and you will find the pushrod with a lock nut on it. Should be 13mm so undo it and get a pair of multi grips pliers and turn the rod out to reduce the free play and then lock up the nut again

You should have about 20 mm ( theres a spec on it some where ) or so movement at the top of the brake pedal this is the free play

thanks

sweet thanks dave

Anthiron wrote:i generally get someone to pump the pedal a few times (5 or 6) and then hold it in while i loosen the bleed valve, let pockets and brake fluid flow out of valve and then tighten it and get the person to let go of the pedal.

i generally do this twice or so for every wheel starting from back passenger side and working my way closer to the master cylinder.

im still not happy with the pedal feel though. and with new shoes all round and no fluid leaks.

what do you do?]


Nick

Heres my method...and I still don't believe this works..but used again on my son's EH this arv. OK I have a plastic hose/tube the right size to slip on the nipple(mmm) and about 2mts long. I stick one end on the nipple(mmm again) and peg the other end up somewhere high(yes with a close peg). now open the nipple(?) casually walk around and depress the brake pedal while watching the fluid and bubbles rise up out of the tube. Just as casually walk back and shut nipple(gulp) do as many corners of vehicle as needed...test pedal...rock hard!
What annoys me is i'm 54 yrs old and have been bleeding brakes the annoying way for 40 of them...try it.

You would have to make sure that no air goes into the tube..
I presume thats why its so long...?

Never heard of anyone doing it that way...

If You have air in the system [especially after replacing hoses etc]
jack the rear of the car up so the rear brake cylinders are above the master cylinder...
undo the nipples on both rear brakes...
and leave them undone for 15 minutes + approx..
and all the air should have floated to the highest point in the brake system...
I did this, but had clear hose on both brake nipples..

this info came from a brake repairer...

with the dual braking master cylinder - sometimes air is trapped behind the two brake switches or in the master cylinder so undoing those can let any air out..

I've read where the adjustable rod that goes from the master cylinder piston to the brake pedal -
should never be adjusted ...
[so why did VW make it adjustable? ]
there is a set distance its supposed to be...

Lee

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

i think i found the problem

just finished replacing my front flexi brake lines and did the one man bleeder from repco.

pedal is much better!

havnt taken it for a drive yet. i think it still needs a smidgeon more bleeding but ill do that after a couple of drives to try and get the bubbles to the top.

there is of course the pressurised method where you put the full reservoir under constant pressure [compressor or hand pump contraption with valve in lid, don't blow the seals!] you can can walk around the car and bleed at your lesure, keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.

I ended up using about 3 or more bottles of brake fluid to do My brakes...

but they eventually bled OK and now work extremely well...

Lee

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

ahhhh

what the hell is with these brakes.

pedal was great for about 1 day.

now its starting to get spongy again.

rebled with the 1 man kit and it went hard again and then starts to go spongy again after a day or so.

then everynow and then ill go for a drive and the pedal is great, ill get out of the car at the shops, get back in the drive home and the pedal is bad again!!!

what could be causing this?

Check all wheel cylinders for leaks.

If they are ok replace the master cylinder. As I would bet its duff.

The best way I have found to bleed recalcitrant brakes is backwards.

Push fluid back from the wheels up to the M/C. O2 tubing and a 50ml syringe do the job. You will be amazed the extra crap and air this will dislodge. Often good to blow the brakelines out with compressed air first to ensure no crud or corrosion left inside the lines.

kkk